How Long Should I Run A Dehumidifier After A Flood? Trust The Answer

1. What does a dehumidifier do?

A dehumidifier removes water from the air in your home until the relative humidity is reduced to your chosen level. Once it reaches that level, a good dehumidifier should automatically maintain that comfortable level without interference from you!

2. What is relative humidity?

Relative humidity is a measure of how much water is in the air relative to the amount the air could hold if it were saturated. Relative humidity is expressed as a percentage. When the relative humidity reaches 100%, it is at the “dew point”. In other words, the air is “full” of water, and that water begins to condense on every surface. Warm air contains more water than cool air, so as the air cools, the relative humidity increases, although the physical quantity remains constant.

For every 10°C drop in temperature, the air’s capacity to hold water is halved. For example, air at 80°F with a relative humidity of 50% reaches the dew point, 100% relative humidity when cooled to 60°F.

3. Where does the water come from?

Water is always in the air, inside and outside the home. The amount in the household varies and is increased by many routine activities of daily living such as cooking, washing, showering, making tea and breathing. If you have open water containers in your home like fish tanks etc. these will also increase the amount of water in the air.

4. What is the ideal humidity level for my home?

In general, a relative humidity of 50% is comfortable for your home. This protects your home and belongings, prevents mold growth and controls the dust mite population. There is no real need to lower the humidity below the 45-50% mark. This simply costs more energy and serves no useful purpose.

5. How does a dehumidifier work?

Most dehumidifiers work by drawing air from the room via a coil that is cooled to a very low temperature by a refrigeration system. These are commonly known as refrigeration dehumidifiers. The water vapor condenses on the cold surface and the liquid water drips into the water bucket underneath. More and more dehumidifiers are now using an alternative method known as adsorption dehumidifiers. Desiccant dehumidifiers pass the air over a wheel that is coated with a water-absorbing material (called a desiccant). The water is removed from the desiccant by passing a stream of warm air through it, drying it and regenerating it to collect more moisture on the next pass. The collected water is collected in the water collection tank of the device.

6. How long does it take to get the humidity under control?

As long as the dehumidifier you choose is large enough for the area it is working in and there are no specific moisture issues, a dehumidifier will typically reduce humidity to the chosen level within a few days to a week. This time frame does not apply if the space has been flooded, in which case one or more dehumidifiers will be needed and may be supplemented with air movers and other specialist equipment. This work is usually carried out by specialized water damage specialists.

7. How much water does a dehumidifier remove?

The answer to that depends on three specific factors. The performance of the dehumidifier, the room temperature and also the relative humidity in that room. A 12 liter dehumidifier will rarely, if ever, remove 12 liters in a single 24 hour period. Once the relative humidity has been reduced to your chosen level, the dehumidifier should only be operated intermittently to maintain that level so that the amount of water collected in the bucket is even less.

As a rule of thumb, you’ll need to empty your dehumidifier’s bucket at intervals of anywhere from once every two days to twice a day, depending on the conditions. Only in exceptional cases will a properly sized dehumidifier need to be emptied more frequently, unless it is the first time you have installed it in a very humid room.

8. Can I use the water that collects in the bucket?

The water collected in the dehumidifier tank is called condensate. You can use it in your iron or to water the plants! However, it should not be drunk by humans or animals as it may contain traces of substances that could make you, your pets, ill.

9. How do I know the size of my dehumidifier?

This largely depends on the size of the room and how wet it is. But in general, you will find that most of the dehumidifiers on our site are classified by house size to make your choice easier. For example, our smallest dehumidifiers are ideal for anything up to a 3 bedroom home. Our larger units are ideal for homes with up to 5 bedrooms. In general, we always recommend you to play it safe and when in doubt, buy a dehumidifier that is larger than you might need. Larger dehumidifiers remove more water per pound of energy used and run fewer hours in a given space than smaller ones. The energy savings will almost certainly be greater than the difference in purchase price.

10. How does a dehumidifier prevent mold?

A dehumidifier prevents mold growth in two ways. First, it dries out the room by pulling moisture from the room’s contents and fabrics, where mold and mildew stains inevitably form, and preventing that moisture from reappearing. Second, provided the dehumidifier is set to keep the relative humidity at 50% or slightly below, the air is too dry for mold and mildew spores to develop. Mushrooms need both air and surface water to grow!

11. Where is the best place to put my dehumidifier?

In an ideal world, a dehumidifier would be silent and invisible. The next best thing is to be out of sight and hearing. Unfortunately, the first is impossible, and the second, while achievable in some cases, is more costly and labor intensive. If you need to lower the humidity throughout your home, a whole house dehumidifier is your best option. It’s easy to install, virtually silent, and the most affordable solution for whole-home control. For example, if you’re using a portable dehumidifier in a small to medium-sized room, a laundry room, or a bedroom, it doesn’t really matter where you put it.

12. What is continuous drainage?

All portable dehumidifiers have a water collection container, often called a tank or bucket, to collect the water removed from the air. These buckets are quite small to keep the overall size of the dehumidifier down and need to be emptied at least once a day. Since it may not be convenient or possible to empty the bucket on a daily basis, almost all home portable dehumidifiers are designed to drain the water as it is collected. This is called continuous drainage. A small hole has been cut in the dehumidifier body to allow a small hose (most of our units come with this hose in the box) to be connected to the dehumidifier to allow the water to drain out. Water is drained by gravity alone, so for effective continuous drainage, the dehumidifier must be raised a foot or two off the ground and the hose routed to a floor-level drain.

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dry out

After you’ve pumped out all of the standing water, you can begin drying your property. In the case of severe flooding, it can take weeks or months for the building fabric to dry.

Experts are arguing about the best strategy for drying out flooded buildings. There are three competing methods:

To open all windows and doors and create a flow of air through the building

Add heat to the airflow

Or close the building and use dehumidification

The deeper the floodwater is and the longer it has been in contact with the structure, the more moisture it will naturally have absorbed. Stone, masonry, plaster, concrete, wood and stone masonry are partially porous.

Ideally, buildings should be dried out by the central heating system whenever possible, with the thermostat set at 22°C or higher. If possible, use heaters, fans, and dehumidifiers to help the process.

Good ventilation of the building supports the drying process, open as many doors and windows as possible. Keep all doors and windows open on dry days. Leave the windows open on wet days – the inside of your house can only dry if moisture can escape. Whenever possible, use fans to help circulate air and draw moist air out of the building. Fans are more beneficial than heaters – they speed up the drying process by increasing the airflow and evaporation rate in your home.

Whether a structure is dry or not can be determined with a gauge, available either from construction professionals or from a tool rental shop. A lack of condensation can also indicate that a building has dried out. The length of time it takes for a building to dry out is highly variable and is affected by a number of factors including the severity of the flood and the type and thickness of building materials that have been in contact with the flood water. Be prepared for the process to take months rather than weeks for acute flooding.

Chimneys should be carefully dried, starting with only small fires before progressing to larger ones, to avoid expansion of water to steam (and hence damage) within the structure.

drying out of floors

The floor surface, whether formwork or concrete, should be exposed as much as possible. Carpets, vinyl floors, tiles and the like must be removed and the floor area ventilated sufficiently.

In the case of suspended wooden floors, some boards should be removed and any water present in the cavity should be removed. This can be achieved by drainage through air bricks; Cut holes in exterior walls or use a pump, but seek advice (from building or moisture control experts) before cutting holes in walls.

Spaces below suspended concrete floors should naturally drain and dry out through existing air bricks or drain holes, although forced ventilation may be required.

Wet mineral wool insulation and pipe insulation should be removed and replaced and aluminum/metal foil around the insulation punctured to allow any water to drain.

Floor joists that show signs of rot should be replaced and the surrounding area treated to prevent spread. Deformation or twisting of beams can be prevented by stiffening the beams with struts or battens. Electrical connections and junction boxes must be checked by a qualified electrician.

Flooding will seriously damage most chipboard and there is the added problem that contaminants can get into the wood. Particle board should be replaced if you think the floodwaters have touched it or if it appears swollen, warped or damp. Where you can’t replace it (e.g. under partitions), add braces for extra support.

Raised floors are those that have not returned to their original level or are severely cracked. The floor may need to be removed and a new floor installed. If a floor has cracked badly but has returned to its original level, a new floor can be installed over the old one.

A vapor barrier should be added between the two floors and the new floor should be at least 2 inches thick.

The best way to tell when the flooring is dry is to use a moisture meter, which displays a moisture percentage reading. This should generally be below 24% between October and May and below 22% between June and September.

In general, it is best to seek professional or building professional advice before attempting this type of repair.

When replacing floor coverings, consider using materials that are less susceptible to damage from flooding or that are easier to move after a flood warning (e.g. area rugs instead of fitted carpets).

drying out of walls

Areas of concern are best discussed with a surveyor or other construction professional who should be able to identify and assess weaknesses and rising damp in the wall and advise on how best to deal with them. If walls are piled high (above 1-2 feet) with sediment or debris, it will put a force on the wall (a stress); Be careful when removing charges. Try to gradually remove loads and try to maintain the level inside and outside of walls when loaded on both sides.

Traditional brick or concrete block walls with mortar joints generally dry out well. Some types of lightweight blocks may lose strength after standing in flood water for a long time. Have them checked by a professional.

Indications of creases are horizontal cracks and areas that have moved out of vertical alignment. If this condition is minor, then you do not need to fix the wall immediately. However, any noticeably buckled wall will eventually collapse from normal ground pressure and seasonal temperature changes. If the warping has seriously weakened the wall, the damaged parts should be rebuilt immediately. Vertical reinforcements may need to be installed in walls longer than 15 feet.

Settling walls and foundations are indicated by vertical cracks either in small areas or throughout the structure. Repairs are difficult without special equipment. Use a reliable contractor for this work.

Check the walls regularly for cracks and rising damp and contact a professional if necessary. Record any delamination (splitting in layers) and joint expansion so that the damage to the building can be fully assessed.

Wash and disinfect all contaminated surfaces and remove any loose decorations (e.g. wallpaper or tiles). Remove any low permeability interior coatings such as vinyl paper, ceramic tile, and gloss paint that slow or prevent drying. Hose down and scrub exterior walls.

It is important to drain or remove standing water in cavities (both exterior and interior walls) as quickly as possible. Inspect cavities, either by hiring a specialist with an optical probe, or carefully removing bricks and determining internal conditions. Clean interior of water, mud or dirt and replace any corroded wall anchors and insulation. In the case of wall anchors, it is advisable to call in an expert to repair or replace them and you will find that some construction companies specialize in this area.

Dry brush off any efflorescence (growth of salt crystals) that forms on the walls as it dries. The salinity of walls can be assessed, but it is usually best to consult an expert in this case.

Moisture sealants can cause significant problems. It is very difficult to give advice on how to deal with such substances as they can vary greatly in structure, breathability and durability. Again, it’s best to call in a professional who can assess if removal and replacement is necessary.

Check that all airbricks in the walls for ventilation are clear. Place vents approximately one meter apart around the building at the level of the moisture barrier at each floor level and at the top of voids behind masonry cladding to speed drying.

See also: You have been flooded.

Drying up after water damage should be at the top of any cleaning priority list.

If you can dry items within 48 hours, you can save many goods and avoid mold and rust.

1. Moving air naturally

If the humidity is not too high, open windows and doors to start air circulation. Open closet and cupboard doors and remove drawers.

2. Move air mechanically

Rent or buy powerful fans to boost airflow. Depending on their size and performance, fans cost between 50 and 500 US dollars to purchase; $20 per day for rent. (Don’t use your central air conditioning or furnace blower if the HVAC ducts were submerged.)

3. Dehumidification

A portable dehumidifier can remove water vapor from the air in enclosed spaces like a downstairs bedroom or recreation room. Close the room’s windows and doors to prevent more moisture from entering. Buy a large dehumidifier ($270) so you don’t have to empty the water drawer frequently.

4. Pump water

A sump pump is a submersible pump that continuously pumps water out of the house through a hose or pipe. If you have standing water that is a few inches deep, a sump pump can help. Rent a sump pump for about $44 a day or buy one for $100 and up.

5. Wet/Dry Shop Vac

Some workshop vacuums are designed for use in wet conditions. These vacuum cleaners suck water out of carpets and give you a chance to save carpets and wall to wall. Do not use an ordinary household vacuum cleaner, the insides of which are not protected against water. A 6-gallon wet/dry vacuum is $50; a 16-gallon goes for about $170.

6. Remove soaked items

Expose wet carpets and furniture to the sun to reduce internal moisture levels. Remove vinyl or linoleum floors to encourage maximum evaporation. Throw wet insulation under floors.

7. Freeze papers

To buy time, place wet books and photos in plastic bags and place in a frost-free freezer. This stops further deterioration and prevents mold and mildew stains. If you have time, take the books out of the freezer and let the pages air or fan dry.

8. Absorb moisture

Desiccants (silica gel, alumina, calcium oxide) absorb moisture like a sponge. Place permeable packages containing desiccants and wet items in airtight containers or sealed areas such as closets. Some desiccants change color to indicate they are saturated, which can take days or weeks depending on how much moisture the items contain.

Related:

According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), home water leaks can waste about 1 trillion gallons of water per year, while 37% of homeowners admit they have suffered losses due to water damage in their homes.

Water leaks are more than just the annoying sound of water dripping from your faucet; it could mean a few days of serious cleaning. Even with the use of a sump pump, it would still take days to thoroughly dry your flooded walls, floors, carpets and furniture.

Water damage from water ingress or flooding should not be neglected as the damp environment can quickly lead to mold growth. Did you know that mold can grow within 48 hours in an area that is exposed to moisture? When this happens, more serious problems can arise, such as: B. Damaged furniture that requires costly repairs and threatens your family’s health with respiratory diseases. To avoid these risks, you may need to use dehumidifiers to dry everything quickly.

How do dehumidifiers help?

Dehumidifiers work like vacuum cleaners; They take the moisture out of the air. There are two processes involved in using dehumidifiers – absorption and adsorption. Absorption is the removal of moisture from a material soaked in water. Adsorption takes place when you absorb water on the surface.

Dehumidifiers don’t stop drying out water leaks in your home; They also help reduce allergy symptoms by controlling mold growth. It works by pulling humid air out of the room where there is a water leak or flood. Inside the canal is a rotating wheel that absorbs water; this removes moisture from the air. Dryer air is then blown back into the room. This repeated action quickly dries up the moisture in the room.

How long should I run a dehumidifier?

The time it takes you to run a dehumidifier after a water leak or flood depends on several factors. Your water damage surveyor will examine the flooded area and determine the extent of the damage. Other factors to consider are:

size of the flooded area

The smaller the affected area, the less time it will take you to run a dehumidifier. However, if the whole house is affected by a water leak, you may need to run multiple dehumidifiers for a few days or even a week. An enclosed area also helps the machine run efficiently.

humidity

Another factor that affects the lifespan of a dehumidifier is humidity. Normally, you need to keep a dehumidifier running longer when there is water leakage in summer than in winter because the humidity is higher during this period.

severity of the damage

A water leak in concrete or linoleum floors and walls will cause less damage because these materials are less absorbent. However, when the leaking water reaches your carpet, drywall, wood furniture and other wood materials, you will need a dehumidifier longer.

After water damage in your house, not only the floors are affected, but often the walls as well. So it’s important to know how to dry wet walls – or call a restoration company right away. Rapid drying reduces the risk of structural damage and prevents mold growth.

Understand how water saturates drywall

Before you learn how to dry a wall after water damage, here’s a look at how water soaks through drywall. Water entering a room from the ground covers the floor and flooring. It then begins to “wick” up the wall due to capillary action in porous materials. The extent of this movement depends on the wall construction, the amount of water and the height of the water on the wall material.

Drywall is an absorbent material that contains plaster and a cardboard-like paper on both sides. Drywall can soak up water up to 30 inches! The water will be present on both sides of the wall. However, it is often higher on the inside because evaporation is restricted on that side of the drywall. While water damage is sometimes visible, sometimes the wall doesn’t show any signs of that moisture.

How to dry a wall after water damage

First, decide whether you want to solve the problem yourself or call a professional company. We recommend the latter if you do not know how to dry wet walls or the damage is extensive. Sometimes water damage is obvious, but more often than not it is hidden and may be missed by those not trained in water damage restoration.

If you want to DIY, here’s how to dry wet walls:

If a burst pipe has caused water ingress, turn off the water source. Hire a plumber to fix the broken pipe before it can be dried.

Speed ​​up drying by opening windows and doors. Use fans to move air around the damp walls. Dehumidifiers can help remove moisture from the air, which indirectly removes it from walls as well.

To speed up evaporation, remove trim and baseboards to prevent moisture from getting in behind them. Store the molding in a dry, safe place to avoid damage. Also remove items hanging on the wall, such as paintings and portraits.

Remove the wallpaper if you have one. This requires patience but is important as the wallpaper will form a ‘seal’ that will keep moisture in the wall. Wallpaper removers that loosen the adhesive are available at your hardware store. You will also need 3-6 inch wide knives to scrape the wallpaper after peeling it off.

Note that the walls will take time to dry completely, so don’t rush the post-processing until the walls are dry. A moisture meter can help you be sure. Once it’s completely dry, you can reverse the process and repaint your room. Check the removed parts for moisture or mold before reinstalling them.

Drying wet walls quickly and properly is crucial. If you can’t dry your walls right away, don’t make the problem worse by waiting. Call a water damage restoration specialist and leverage their expertise, experience and equipment.

How renovation professionals dry damp walls after water damage

First, the technicians use a variety of water damage restoration tools to determine the extent of the water. One choice is a non-invasive moisture meter. This meter uses radio waves to test for water without drilling holes in the wall.

Another professional tool is an infrared (IR) imaging camera. Because evaporation from wet walls makes them cooler than dry walls, the IR camera can find water in walls. This is done without holes or other interventions in the wall material.

Once professionals identify wet walls, they use special drying equipment to dry them.

If the walls are not insulated:

In this case, the renovation professional can dry out wet walls without drilling or removing the skirting board. The technicians place heavy-duty air movers along the wall every 10 to 14 feet. These air movers remove moisture from the wall surface and quickly evaporate it. As the moisture evaporates, more moisture rises to the surface where it evaporates.

The sanitation expert will also install a low-grain refrigerant dehumidifier in the damp wall. Depending on the moisture content, one or more will be needed. This advanced drying equipment reduces humidity to aid in drying and prevent mold growth.

If necessary, the restoration professional will install an interior wall drying system by making small holes over the sill plate and forcing air into the wall cavity. Studies have shown that this solution is the best and fastest way to dry water damaged walls.

Also, if there is a moisture barrier on the outside or inside of the wall, the drying schedule changes. Moisture barriers are coatings or materials that prevent the movement of moisture out of the wall material.

Most latex paints are permeable and do not form a barrier. However, glossy paint can provide a barrier, and enamel paint or vinyl wallcovering provides a complete barrier. Technicians must perforate or remove them to allow moisture to escape and allow the walls to dry. If there is plastic or film on the inside of the wall, technicians will need to remove the wall. This is because drying is not done properly and mold forms in such situations.

If the walls are insulated:

In the case of fiberglass insulation with paper lamination, inner wall drying can be used as described above. However, if the insulation is foil-faced fiberglass, blown cellulose, or a Styrofoam material, it will not dry successfully.

In these cases, it is necessary to remove the damaged part of the wall along with the insulation to allow for quick drying and prevent mold growth.

Monitoring of the drying system

Regardless of the methods used by the restoration professional, homeowners should know that the equipment must be operated uninterrupted throughout the drying process.

Finally, the drying system is monitored at least once a day by restoration professionals. This ensures that the equipment is working properly during the drying process. Monitoring includes moisture measurements to determine when materials are drying successfully. Material dryness is measured against similar unaffected contents in this structure. When the drying levels are equal, the drying is complete and the equipment removed.

To recap: How to dry damp walls

After addressing the water source, remove paintings and other items from the wall. Then remove moldings, baseboards and wallpaper. Open windows and doors to speed up the drying process. Use fans to move air around the damp walls. Also, use dehumidifiers, which can help remove moisture from the air and walls. Professionals use tools such as moisture meters, infrared imagers, dehumidifiers, and high-power fans. This ensures that the walls are really dry before further repairs, painting or refinishing.

Turn to the professionals for drywall water damage drying and repair!

A professional restoration company like PuroClean understands and applies the principles and procedures of drying damp walls. For an efficient drywall water damage repair, contact your local PuroClean office. Our trained and certified technicians can dry walls and other items quickly and thoroughly, preventing further damage and mold growth.

“How long should I run my dehumidifier each day?” That’s an excellent question. I get asked by everyone if they’ve had a dehumidifier for years or just started.

The best answer would be to run your dehumidifier 24 hours a day. However, that can cost quite a bit of money and more than you really need to spend.

The extraction rate

The idea is to direct all the air through the device as far as possible. This is known as your extraction rate and is quite difficult to determine. An average device in your room, when working properly, should extract moisture to around 50-55% RH.

With this assumption, you can safely run your dehumidifier for approximately 12 hours a day. That should (again, depending on your device) direct all of the humid air in your room through the system at least once. I usually tell people to run their dehumidifier 10-12 hours a day, and of course, the more the merrier.

What about costs?

If you’re worried about spending too much on your electric bill, you can try calling your energy company and asking about the “best times.” Typically, the best time to operate your device that saves you money is between 10pm and 7am – then fewer people use energy, which lowers prices.

However, drying your room requires you to leave your device running, and I doubt you’ll be doing this activity in the middle of the night. So it’s okay if you leave your dehumidifier running during the normal hours of a few days to as long as needed.

You can also split these times. For example, you could run six hours a day and six hours a night. That’s perfectly fine, but you should get a timer to help you regulate this.

A timer is useful. Just plug one into your outlet and plug in your dehumidifier. Especially great when you’re running out the door to run errands, drying laundry indoors, or drying a painted wall.

The RH factor

The ideal relative humidity or relative humidity in a building is around 40% to 50%. Given that mold begins to grow at around 65% RH, it is recommended that your home’s RH stay well within the ideal range. Your dehumidifier is used to maintain this RH level.

A household produces 15 liters of moisture per day, bathing, cooking, washing, drying, breathing, sweating… However, the objects vary in size, number of occupants, building materials, airflow, circulation, content, occupant behavior, so there is no fixed limit, how long a dehumidifier should be operated.

When you first start your dehumidifier, it is a good idea to run it continuously until the relative humidity drops below 60% or the water tank is full, whichever comes first. Once the relative humidity is below 60%, you can use the dehumidifier during the day and turn it off at night.

If the relative humidity has increased, the device will continue to work to lower the relative humidity and will enter sleep mode when the healthy relative humidity is reached.

You COULD invest in zeolite

If you have rooms with variable humidity, you can run a system 24 hours a day without spending as much money as you would on a standard dehumidifier. You can operate at a low cost if you just dry and refresh, and at a constant cost if you add a permanent unit.

Dehumidifiers work to remove excess moisture from the air. Open windows can allow moisture in from outside, causing the dehumidifier to work harder. Close the windows in the house when operating the dehumidifier to save costs and get the maximum benefit from the device.

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How a dehumidifier works

The main function of the dehumidifier is to remove moisture from the air in a room or part of the house, such as a bedroom. B. a basement to remove. Rooms with too much humidity or moisture can produce mold and mildew that cause odors and health problems. The dehumidifier works best with the windows closed, as opening the windows allows moisture to enter from the outside. As air flows through the dehumidifier, the device captures the moisture, which settles in a drip tray. Dryer air is then filtered out of the dehumidifier.

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Health Benefits

If you have too much humidity in the house, it can be even more difficult for people with breathing problems to breathe. When inhaled, the moisture coats the airways, causing coughing or shortness of breath. By reducing the humidity with the dehumidifier, you can breathe easier.

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placement

The dehumidifier must be placed in the room with the most moisture, which can be the basement, bedroom or living room. You can place it against a wall but make sure the front is facing out for it to work properly.

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operation of the dehumidifier

Plug in the dehumidifier and let it run as much or as long as you want to remove moisture from the air. You need to turn it off and empty the drain pan once or twice a day. After a while, you may find that the water in the pan stops collecting as much. At this point, you can turn off the dehumidifier and use it only when needed.

Mold growth from flooding and water leaks has always been a nightmare for homeowners. Not only is it difficult to remove, but it can also be costly, both financially and in terms of health. A home water leak can happen at any time of the year but is especially problematic after major weather events like the winter storm of February 2021 in the southern United States. Many people are currently concerned about water damage and possible mold growth, mold spores and how to prevent this in the home. Also, many people may not understand the importance of proper mold removal and the use of water damage repair companies.

How long does it take for mold to grow in a flooded home?

Unfortunately, after water damage or a water accident, it doesn’t take long for mold to grow in the home. When conditions are right, mold begins to grow aggressively within 24 to 48 hours (1). After a disaster or severe storm, cleaning and sanitizing within 48 hours may seem rushed, but this is the critical time to prevent mold from growing and damaging your home and personal property.

What requirements must be met?

Mold likes to eat fibrous material often found in home building materials. Mold eats things like cardboard, paper, chipboard, bacteria, dust particles, and even furniture. However, it also often needs moisture from water ingress or water damage from natural disasters or a burst pipe. Wherever there is a lot of moisture and moisture with no airflow to dry it out, you will see mold growing (1,2,3).

How soon after water damage do mold spores start growing?

Molds reproduce by developing and releasing spores. Once it starts growing, it also starts multiplying pretty quickly. These spores are like tiny seeds that float in the air and settle on a surface. Where they settle, mold grows in a new place. It is very difficult to see spores with the naked eye and they only become visible once they establish and start growing, making it difficult to spot them early. However, since mold is very opportunistic, most species will find a way to grow if the conditions are right (1-3).

Does water damage always cause mold?

Mold needs food, space and moisture to grow. If any of these things are missing, mold will have a harder time growing and multiplying (1-3). Although mold doesn’t always grow after moisture damage, it is very likely to because many homes lack adequate airflow, particularly within the walls. For this reason, home prevention and mold remediation strategies focus on these areas. A mold problem is only as bad as the conditions are ripe (4). Restoring water damage and removing damaged materials is very important, but prevention is also needed.

Does water damage always lead to dangerous black mold growth?

Black mold or Stachybotrys is a type of mold, but one of the most dangerous for the well-being of all living beings in the home. If this species is discovered, it requires very skillful mold remediation and removal (1.5). Black mold can cause severe allergies, lung problems, immune problems, and aggravation of pre-existing conditions (5,6,7). Although black mold is dangerous, other species like Aspergillus can also cause serious health problems (5). Although Stachybotrys is a risk, it doesn’t always grow with every water damage event.

Can mold grow after a leak is fixed?

Unfortunately, mold can still grow after a leak or flood damage has been repaired. Often this happens because the problem was not fixed properly the first time. Occasionally moisture lingers or hides under floorboards or voids in walls. If this is the case, spores can easily deposit and grow a new colony (1,2).

How can you prevent mold after water damage?

The ideal is to prevent mold growth in the first place, but this may not always be feasible. Disasters like the recent ice and snow storm in the southern US can happen, greatly increasing the amount of water damage and leaks in the home. Once moisture damage has occurred, it is recommended that a remediation company be hired to perform proper water damage remediation (1,3,6). Although many people believe they can do it on their own, it’s very easy to think that the mess is cleaned up when it isn’t. And without a proper remediation process, mold can start growing in a very short time (1,7).

How to prevent further problems?

Stop the source of moisture first! In the event of a pipe leak, close the main valve to cut off the water pressure.

Make sure there is adequate airflow throughout the house to allow the room to dry out. If temperatures permit, open windows or use fans, dehumidifiers, or air purifiers (1). The most important thing is to move air through the house to dry household items, wall voids, ceilings, floors and furniture and lower the ambient humidity. This is particularly important when there have been severe floods. Be sure to remove any soaked items and dry thoroughly. Personal belongings, drywall, or flooring may all need to be replaced if seriously damaged. Finally, it is highly recommended to work with a water damage restoration company experienced in mold removal to help fix major problems after a water leak or flood (1,2,3).

Conclusion

Mold growth after water damage, leaks and floods is a serious problem that needs to be repaired and fixed. This is especially important after weather disasters and other climate problems. Mold growth can definitely cause health problems that can be deadly for certain people with compromised immune systems or existing health conditions. The best way to deal with this problem is to prevent it in the first place, but once water has entered the home, it’s important to seek professional help to fix the problem and prevent mold before it occurs gets stuck.

Finally, fungi cannot grow in dry places without food that has a good balance of other microbes to provide natural competition. Because of this, it is not good to over-clean a house with antiseptic products. Instead, ensure a balance of microbes in the home, in humans, and in the soil. Make sure you have good ventilation, clear clutter where water can leak, and consider investing in fans, dehumidifiers, and an air purifier.

references

https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/mould-growth

https://www.cdc.gov/mold/faqs.htm

https://royalsosocietypublishing.org/doi/full/10.1098/rspb.2015.1139

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1892134/

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0013935115000304

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1471490615000022

Frequently asked questions about dehumidifiers

What is a dehumidifier?

A dehumidifier is a product designed to regulate room or process humidity and prevent signs of dampness.

How does a dehumidifier work?

A dehumidifier removes excess moisture from the air. Dehumidifiers are designed to prevent condensation and moisture in a variety of applications such as clothing, houses, vintage car storage, furniture storage, hair salons, cafes, restaurants, caravans or boats, basements or even production processes or machines. There are two different types of dehumidifiers, the more popular type is the compressor powered refrigerant dehumidifier. This type of unit works by drawing air over two sets of coils with refrigerant, one cold and the other hot, thereby drawing out all moisture before draining water into a storage tank or receptacle, or pumping it to a convenient drain point. The desiccant is the less common version available and this type of system uses a special material that absorbs moisture from the air before releasing any trapped water into a container or venting wet vapor to a suitable outdoor area.

Can I run the dehumidifier at night?

Yes, we recommend using a dehumidifier 24/7, but be aware that the machine is always making noise while it is running. We recommend choosing one of our smaller and quieter Woods dehumidifiers, e.g. B. the MRD10, MRD14 or Woods 36 if they are to be used near bedrooms. Otherwise, we recommend using the dehumidifier from early morning until late at night and then turning off the device. If the machine is in a hallway and the bedrooms are upstairs, you might not even hear the machine.

Do I have to leave the heater on when running my dehumidifier?

The warmer the air, the easier it is to remove moisture from it.

Do I have to keep the dehumidifier running all the time?

All dehumidifiers are equipped with a humidity controller that controls the operation of the machine. When the humidity level is reached, the dehumidifier will turn off, although some units will keep the circulation fan running after the dehumidification process has stopped. Sometimes the fan run function can be beneficial to keep the circulation going.

What are the running costs of a dehumidifier?

It costs around 10-12p an hour for 1kW of electricity. We show the wattage on each product so a 300w machine costs 3-4p an hour depending on what you pay for your electricity. For an average dehumidifier it costs around 3-4p per hour when continuous operation through adsorption machines is higher at around 5p per hour. However, the adsorption machines such as DD200, DD300 and DD400 get the job done faster at temperatures below 20°C and therefore the total cost can be lower than a traditional refrigeration dehumidifier. Once the home is under control the actual running costs will drop significantly as the dehumidifier will have to run less.

Do all CAS-Hire dehumidifier rental ranges have humidity control?

Not all of our CAS Hire dehumidifier rental fleet offer variable humidity control. A large percentage of the heavy duty industrial models simply have an on/off setting, but the smaller units have built in humidity controls.

Does room size matter when choosing a dehumidifier?

Yes and no. Most important is the amount of water you need to extract from the air. The more water in the air, the more capacity you need. A small room with a lot of humidity may need as much dehumidification as a large room with an average humidity level. When in doubt, it is always better to oversize a dehumidifier. Dehumidifiers remove moisture from the entire volumetric area of ​​the room and not just from a specific spot.

Where should I place the dehumidifier?

Position the dehumidifier centrally in the affected area.

Will dehumidifiers increase the heat in my home?

Yes, but that can be either good or bad. The warmer the room, the easier and more efficiently you can remove moisture, so the machine has to work less. Depending on the size of the room, you can increase the temperature by 5-10 degrees.

Are dehumidifiers portable?

Generally yes, all of our dehumidifier rental ranges have either carry handle casters or rear wheels.

The specs say a dehumidifier can extract 20 liters per day, but the water reservoir only holds 4 liters?

Maximum extraction rates are based on temperatures of either 32°C and 90% relative humidity or 30°C and 80% relative humidity (RH). It would say that in the UK it is reasonable to expect a maximum of around 10 or 25 liters per day as extraction rates decrease as the temperature drops.

Does it filter the air?

All machines have an air filter mainly to protect the machine. If you want extra clean air then please check out our air purifier rental offer on our website

I have a second home. What happens in the event of a power failure, does the machine switch on again?

It depends on the brand and model you rent. Most dehumidifiers with manual hygrostat control turn themselves back on. The electronic controls are different. Our Woods dehumidifiers will turn back on and continue to remove moisture at the humidity level you set the unit to. Some of the industrial building dehumidifiers will not turn back on and need to press the power button to restart.

The dehumidifier I rented runs all the time – why?

The dehumidifier you rent probably won’t be able to remove the moisture in that area. If your area has 50 liters of moisture removed per day and you have a 40 liter unit, you will never catch up and the machine will run continuously.

Can a dehumidifier cover multiple interconnected rooms?

It depends on the total area of ​​all rooms, the room layout and the circulation area between the rooms. The more open the rooms are to each other (no 3 foot doors), the easier it is. Having fans in the rooms to move the air would certainly help move the air towards the main area where you placed the dehumidifier.

How much noise are they making?

Noise levels, measured in (dBA), may vary by make and model. The higher (dBA) the higher the sound level.

Can I have a permanent drainage installed?

Yes, continuous drain kits are available for both the Ebac and Woods range of dehumidifiers. The Woods 40 dehumidifiers come complete with drain hose and built-in pump.

How does the permanent drainage work?

The hose connects to a drain point on the dehumidifier and the hose outlet must be lower than the drain point of the dehumidifier as it is a gravity drain only. (The Woods 40 and some of the Ebac models have built in water pumps and can pump water up to 2.5m above the height of the dehumidifier and up to 10m.)

What if the hose becomes clogged or kinked?

You should regularly check that the drain hose is clear to prevent water from backing up or the pump from burning out.

I still have condensation on the windows even though my dehumidifier stopped working – why?

Either you have set the dehumidification setting too low on the dehumidifier or the dehumidifier is undersized. While 50% Relative Humidity (RH) may be ideal for home use, during periods of colder weather you may need to increase the settings and make your dehumidifier work harder. In larger spaces, you may need more than one dehumidifier

How long will it take to get my condensation under control?

This depends on the level of the problem. In general, you will see improvement within a few days, but allow 1-2 weeks to get the problem under control.

Does a dehumidifier show me my exact humidity?

Some models offer digital control, but we recommend purchasing a thermo-hygrometer so you can measure relative humidity and compare it to your dehumidifier setting.

What causes condensation?

In the UK, condensation in houses is primarily a winter problem, particularly where warm, humid air is generated in living quarters and then enters the colder parts of the building. Moisture in the air comes from a number of sources within the home. Water vapor is produced in relatively large quantities during normal everyday activities – a 5-person household puts around 10 kg of water into the air every day (not including heating) – i. awake) 0.85 kg – cooking 3 kg – body washing 1.0 kg – washing and drying laundry 5.5 kg – heating – especially kerosene and flueless gas heaters. For every liter of paraffin burned, over a liter of moisture evaporates into the air. All coal fuel produces some amount of water when burned. (1 kg of water corresponds to approx. 1 liter) Moisture can also be drawn from the building fabric into the room air; under the floor or through the walls/ceilings.

I have mold and mildew, will a dehumidifier get rid of it?

Yes, a dehumidifier will help prevent further problems, but you must use a mold spore remover to actually kill the spores.

What is the difference between a dehumidifier with a compressor and one without?

Traditional dehumidifiers worked on the refrigeration principle, in which air passed over a cold cooling coil and moisture was condensed on the coil and discharged into a container. Non-compressor desiccant dehumidifiers such as the DD Hire range work on the principle that moist air is drawn into an absorber, which is a slowly rotating disc impregnated with silica. A heating element applies heat to the absorber, which heats the moisture into a high-temperature vapor that is immediately released from the absorber and condenses into water, which falls into the collection tank. An absorption dehumidifier is more efficient in colder indoor temperatures and can often be quieter.

Do I need to change or replace the silica in one of our desiccant dehumidifier rental ranges?

No, there is nothing to replace

Can I dry clothes with a dehumidifier?

Yes you can. Ideally, place your clothes on a drying rack and place the dehumidifier in the same room and leave it on a continuous or laundry setting. Close the door to this area and the dehumidifier will absorb all moisture.

Will just one dehumidifier be enough for my home?

One is usually enough, but in large houses or where you have multiple floors, more than one may be required.

Which dehumidifier do I need for my garage?

Garages are typically unheated so consider the range of adsorption dehumidifiers available as they operate at low temperatures without sacrificing extraction capacity. Large auto repair shops may need more than one machine. Other large storage areas, warehouses, etc. should consider commercial dehumidifiers.

What is the ideal humidity level for my home?

Between 40 and 60%, so 50% would be ideal.

Why is my dehumidifier freezing?

The coils of refrigerated dehumidifiers will ice up, but a sensor or timer will stop the compressor and allow the ice to melt, either by circulating ambient air or by a method called hot gas defrost, which reverses the flow of refrigerant to force hot refrigerant vapor through the coil and so it melts ice quickly and the machine starts again much faster. Some degree of icing is normal, but severe icing may be due to a lack of refrigerant, insufficient airflow, or a malfunction.

Do all dehumidifiers have a water tank?

Yes, all household dehumidifiers have or require a container with a capacity of 3.5 liters to 15 liters.

Does the dehumidifier turn off when the tank is full?

No, only the Woods 36 tanks are fitted with a float switch so once full they will turn off the compressor or in the case of desiccant dehumidifiers turn off the heating element.

When will it be delivered?

If you order before 3:00 p.m. on weekdays, you will receive the machine on the following working day. However, deliveries to the Highlands & Islands or Northern Ireland may take 2/3 days. Delivery in the morning or Saturday is possible at an additional cost.

Delivery on Saturday?

We can arrange delivery on a Saturday at an additional cost but do not offer a Saturday collection service.

Do I have to be present to receive the dehumidifier?

Preferably but not essential as long as you provide us with a neighbor or alternative suitable address where someone can sign a unit for you. We also recommend signing all goods unchecked just in case something has been accidentally damaged in transit. We can also arrange delivery to your place of work if that is more convenient for you.

How much electricity does a dehumidifier use? Find out here (based on 573 models). Also, find out the wattage of the dehumidifier and find out which is the most energy efficient dehumidifier on the market.

The following information on the performance, power consumption and energy efficiency of the dehumidifier is based on 573 dehumidifiers.

Spoiler:

The average power of the dehumidifier is 483.24 W.

. On average, dehumidifiers use 0.427 kWh of electricity per hour (10.24 kWh per day).

). The most energy efficient dehumidifier (the Midea Cube – see Amazon here for details or view the same model with a pump function here) uses 12,031 kWh per day, while the lowest daily consumption is 5.24 kWh per day (the INNOVATIVE IW-25 -4 – see details on Amazon, here).

Read on to see 14 of the most energy efficient dehumidifiers on the market along with their energy efficiency rating, daily water removal capacity, wattage, power consumption, area covered and more.

Wattage dehumidifier

The power of the dehumidifier ranges from 214W to 970W, with 483.24W being the average. The most common power of a dehumidifier is 600 W.

This is based on a study of the power consumption of 573 dehumidifiers.

The performance range of the dehumidifier is quite wide. There’s a 756W difference between the low and high end of the range.

Because there is a significant performance difference between the performance of modern energy-efficient dehumidifiers and older models.

Let’s break down the wattage range into low, medium, and high and take a quick look at each.

Related Post: Cost of Running a Dehumidifier [573 Studies + $9 Saving Tips].

Low wattage dehumidifier

Low wattage dehumidifiers use between 214W and 466W.

Low wattage dehumidifiers are more modern, energy efficient devices. Many of these are ENERGY STAR qualified.

However, not all ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifiers fall into this low wattage range. Some ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifiers draw up to 540W and more.

This is because “low wattage” does not mean “energy efficient” – I go into more detail on this in the “Efficiency of Dehumidifiers” section below.

Note: These numbers apply to portable dehumidifiers only. These are by far the most commonly used in homes. Whole-home dehumidifiers (these require special circuitry and cannot be moved) and personal dehumidifiers (these are typically hand-held and are not capable of removing moisture from the air in an entire room) are not in these numbers contain.

Medium performance dehumidifier

Medium wattage dehumidifiers range from 467W to 700W.

The average wattage (483.24W) and most common dehumidifier power (600W) fall into this category.

Most modern dehumidifiers and some ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifiers also fall into this category, albeit on the lower end of the scale.

Older dehumidifiers also often appear in this category.

High performance dehumidifier

High wattage dehumidifiers use between 701W and 970W.

Older domestic dehumidifiers and industrial appliances appear most often in this category.

It’s also worth noting that in many cases, even mid-wattage dehumidifiers can fall into this category when wattage is calculated from voltage and current alone. The actual consumption, measured with an energy monitor, tends to be significantly lower than this calculation suggests.

A high wattage dehumidifier isn’t always bad, although in most cases it likely is. This is because wattage is not always related to energy efficiency.

But before we dive into energy efficiency, let’s take a look at how much electricity dehumidifiers use over different periods of time.

How much electricity does a dehumidifier use?

On average, dehumidifiers use 0.427 kWh of electricity per hour.

The most common amount of electricity that dehumidifiers consume per hour is 0.548 kWh.

Overall, the amount of electricity that dehumidifiers consume per hour is between 0.23 kWh and 0.983 kWh.

ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifiers use between 0.23 kWh and 0.548 kWh of electricity per hour.

But how much electricity do humidifiers use over a long period of time?

How much electricity do dehumidifiers use per day?

Dehumidifiers use an average of 10.24 kWh of electricity per day.

The amount of electricity dehumidifiers use ranges from 5.52 kWh to 23.6 kWh per day, with 13.14 kWh being the most common.

ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifiers use between 5.52 kWh and 13.14 kWh of electricity per day.

These numbers assume the device runs continuously for 24 hours.

Power consumption of the dehumidifier per month

With a continuous use of 30 days, dehumidifiers consume an average of 307.2 kWh of electricity per month.

The most common amount of electricity consumed by a dehumidifier per month is 394.2 kWh.

But is that a lot? Before we get to that, let’s look at how/where dehumidifiers use electricity.

Energy consumption of the dehumidifier

Dehumidifiers use different amounts of energy when they are active. They go through different stages and activate different components as they remove moisture from the air.

You can also switch to standby mode when a certain humidity level is reached.

Cooling coil, fan, compressor and standby mode consume different amounts of energy.

The humidity in a room also affects energy consumption – the higher the humidity, the more electricity is used.

To provide an accurate estimate of energy consumption, the hourly, daily and monthly power consumption figures above assume continuous usage over a 24-hour period.

This captures the different levels of energy consumption over time.

The figures are based on the electricity consumption of 573 dehumidifiers. IEF (L/kWh) and Daily Capacity (more on this below) were sourced for most ENERGY STAR dehumidifiers. Older models and best-selling models are also included.

Related Post: Dehumidifier Boosters [Listed by Size, Efficiency, and Level].

Now that we know where dehumidifiers use energy and how much electricity a dehumidifier uses, let’s put the consumption into perspective.

Do dehumidifiers use a lot of electricity?

Yes. Dehumidifiers use a lot of electricity.

While the wattage (483.24W is average) and hourly power consumption (0.427kWh is average) are not significant, the long service life means that dehumidifiers use a significant amount of electricity.

With up to 23.6 kWh per day, older dehumidifiers can use a considerable amount of electricity.

Modern energy efficient dehumidifiers use much less electricity, using only 5.52 kWh per day.

But that’s still quite significant.

To put the power consumption of a dehumidifier in perspective, let’s compare the amount of electricity a dehumidifier uses per day with other household appliances.

Running the most energy efficient dehumidifier for 1 day equals:

For more context: According to the U.S. According to Energy Information Administration, the average monthly electricity consumption by US residential customers is 877 kWh.

Dehumidifiers can account for 19% to a whopping 81% of monthly US household electricity use. This assumes 24/7 usage throughout the month.

Assuming 8 hours of use per day, dehumidifiers can account for 6.3% to 27% of a typical US household’s monthly electricity consumption.

Now that we know that dehumidifiers use a lot of electricity, let’s take a look at the energy efficiency of dehumidifiers and identify which dehumidifiers are the most efficient.

Energy efficiency of dehumidifiers

The power of the energy-efficient dehumidifier ranges from 214 W to 540 W.

However, wattage should not be used as the only energy efficiency consideration. This is because wattage does not take into account how effectively a dehumidifier removes moisture from the air.

Energy efficient dehumidifiers remove more moisture from the air per watt compared to standard dehumidifiers.

Energy efficient dehumidifiers use efficient compressors, cooling coils and fans.

They are typically ENERGY STAR qualified, which typically use nearly 15% less energy than standard dehumidifiers while still achieving the same or better results.

ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifiers use between 5.52 kWh and 13.14 kWh of electricity per day.

Integrated power factor and capacity are key factors for energy efficiency. Let’s take a closer look at these.

Energy Efficient Dehumidifier IEF (L/kWh)

The integrated energy factor, or IEF for short, is an important performance indicator for dehumidifiers.

IEF is expressed in liters per kWh consumed (L/kWh) and is a measure of the energy efficiency of dehumidifiers.

L/kWh is commonly used instead of IEF.

Dehumidifiers with a higher IEF or L/kWh are more efficient.

The higher the IEF or L/kWh, the more moisture is removed from the air per watt consumed.

So now for the numbers, drawn from 502 ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifiers.

Energy efficient dehumidifiers have an IEF (or L/kWh) between 1.57 and 1.95, with the average being 1.79.

The most common IEF (or L/kWh) is 1.8 for energy efficient dehumidifiers.

Now let’s take a look at capacity.

Daily moisture removal capacity for energy efficient dehumidifiers

Dehumidifier capacity is another energy efficiency factor.

This is a measure in pints of how much moisture can be removed from the air over a 24 hour period.

The higher the capacity, the more effective the device.

Capacity, often referred to as product capacity or moisture removal capacity, is not to be confused with bucket or tank capacity, which simply refers to how much water the dehumidifier can hold before it needs to be emptied.

Let’s take a look at the capacity numbers (again sourced from 502 ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifiers). To rephrase this:

How Much Water Should a Dehumidifier Remove in a Day?

Energy efficient dehumidifiers remove between 20.04 liters and 50 liters of water from the air per day.

On average, energy efficient dehumidifiers remove 39.09 pints of moisture from the air per day, but 50 pints is the most common.

The combination of capacity and IEF (or L/kWh), determined under standardized test conditions, helps identify the most energy efficient dehumidifiers.

This is more effective than using wattage as the sole energy efficiency factor.

So which dehumidifiers are the most efficient?

Energy efficient dehumidifier

More than 117 ENERGY STAR qualified portable dehumidifiers have an IEF (L/kWh) of 1.9 or higher – 1.95 being the highest.

However, whole house dehumidifiers can achieve an IEF (L/kWh) as high as 2.35. These require professional installation and cannot be moved. When talking about dehumidifiers, most people refer to portable dehumidifiers that can be easily moved from room to room. For this reason, let’s focus on portable dehumidifiers.

There are over 50 dehumidifiers that have earned the coveted ENERGY STAR Most Efficient label. Within these there are some outstanding performers.

However, a key factor in energy efficiency is matching the right product to your needs.

Using unnecessarily powerful devices leads to wasted electricity. So even the most energy efficient appliance can lead to waste if it is not suitable for your needs.

For this reason, I will list outstanding performers that are suitable for different room sizes and have different IEF, capacitance and power consumption values.

This should help those in the energy efficient dehumidifier market to choose the most suitable model for their needs.

The table below is a shortlist of 14 of the most energy efficient dehumidifiers. The table is ordered from low to high IEF (the higher the IEF, the better).

Again, various IEF ratings, daily capacity, wattage, square footage, etc. are included in this shortlist to help you select the most energy efficient dehumidifier for your circumstances.

For example, if you have a small room, a more powerful dehumidifier, even if it has a better IEF, will be unnecessarily powerful.

However, this can be handled efficiently if the dehumidifier has the ability to automatically maintain the humidity level in a room. This is because a more powerful dehumidifier can reach the appropriate humidity level faster than less powerful models and then go into idle mode.

Ultimately, dehumidifiers that have high power consumption on paper can achieve similar power consumption to models that use less power.

Related Topics: Find out about the cost of running energy efficient dehumidifiers here.

With that in mind, let’s take a quick look at the most energy efficient portable dehumidifier.

The most energy efficient dehumidifier

The most energy efficient dehumidifier is the 50 pint Midea Cube – see details, including price, on Amazon, here. See the same model here but with a pump function on Amazon.

With an IEF of 1.95, the 50 pint Midea Cube is an impressively efficient dehumidifier suitable for larger spaces. There are also 20 and 35 pint models available which are more suited to smaller spaces.

The Midea Cube has a smart design that allows for greater water absorption while remaining compact.

It also has smart features that allow you to preset humidity levels. This improves the efficiency of the device by ensuring it only runs when needed.

The Midea Cube also received the coveted “ENERGY STAR Most Efficient” label.

More information about Amazon can be found here.

Award

The best selling dehumidifier on Amazon has made it into the shortlist of the most energy efficient dehumidifiers.

It’s great to see that we have a lot of energy conscious buyers.

With many 5-star reviews, an IEF of 1.7, as well as its style and various automation settings, the hOme HME020030N dehumidifier deserves an honorable mention – see device features and style on Amazon here.

This dehumidifier also uses significantly less electricity than most others.

With a consumption of only 6.1 kWh per day, this dehumidifier uses over 40% less electricity than the average.

Check it out here on Amazon.

Final Thoughts

Dehumidifiers can use a lot of electricity if you’re not careful.

In extreme cases, leaving an older dehumidifier running all day can almost double the amount of electricity you use in your home.

Therefore, it is important to consider the energy efficiency of your dehumidifier.

Reducing the power consumption of your dehumidifier has the obvious benefit of lowering your electricity bills while reducing your carbon footprint.

I hope the details above give you an idea of ​​the power consumption of dehumidifiers and allow you to make more informed purchasing and usage decisions.

Next, check out the cost of running a dehumidifier here. You may also be interested in: Dehumidifier Boosters [Listed by Size, Efficiency and Stage].

Arxell’s Guide to the Most Efficient Floor Drying

Published on

Drying a flooded or water damaged floor can be a lengthy process. It can also cause inconvenience, as a room may become completely sealed, meaning residents will have to move.

For any business or home that has suffered flooding or water damage, relocation can be costly. These costs are borne by either the resident or business owner or the insurance company. The quicker a floor can be dried the better for those at cost and for those who have been installed.

While it is possible for soil to dry out naturally, this is not very effective. Fortunately, there are devices that speed up the drying process.

Whether the floor has been affected by a flood, burst pipe, spill, or other water damage, you should allow it to dry as quickly as possible. So what is the most efficient way to dry a floor?

Remove the water

The first step in drying a floor is to remove as much excess water as possible. This may involve pumping out with specialized equipment, depending on how deep it is. After you’ve pumped out the water, you can use sponges, mops, and a variety of other methods to soak up more water.

Once you have removed as much water as possible from the surface, you need to dry the soil.

Floor coverings such as rugs, mats, and rugs should be removed if possible to speed up drying.

It is possible to dry and reuse the carpet if the water damage is not too severe. If the flood water is contaminated, the carpet must be professionally cleaned before reuse. It may be easier and possibly cheaper to just swap it out.

If you are unsure whether floodwater is contaminated, have the carpet disinfected anyway, as spores left in the water can be harmful to your health.

It is important to ensure the floor is completely dry before installing new carpet or flooring. If the floor is still damp, this can cause the carpet to lift or the floor to warp.

Also, there is a risk of mold or mildew growth if the soil is not completely dry. This can lead to respiratory problems if left untreated, as well as possible long-term damage to your structure.

heat drying

Warm air contains more moisture than cold air, so heating a wet surface will cause it to dry faster.

Using heat drying to dry a floor can be difficult. Hot air rises, so when using a heater, an entire room may need to be heated before a floor dries out. This can take a long time and is not the most efficient use of energy.

As the warm air begins to cool, the water vapor condenses and becomes liquid again. When the warm air has nowhere to escape, the condensation falls down and returns to the wet floor.

Using a fan helps disperse hot air in a room. Good ventilation of the room allows moist air to escape. Alternatively, you can use a heater in conjunction with a dehumidifier, which takes the moisture out of the air and replaces it with dry air.

It is recommended to periodically move the units around the room as the heaters will dry the area closest to them first. This can result in the furthest away areas not drying.

dehumidifier

Dehumidifiers remove moisture from the air and replace it with dry air. In conjunction with fans and heaters, they can speed up the drying out of a floor.

The problem with using a dehumidifier to dry a floor is that it collects moisture from across the room, not just the wet surface. This means the process will take longer. This also means the space needs to be sealed to ensure no additional moisture is brought in.

problems with traditional methods

The problem with conventional drying equipment is that the drying air is not directed towards the wet area. Although using this device dries an area faster than letting it dry naturally, it still takes a long time.

Drying a floor using these methods usually requires the space to be sealed, meaning the area cannot be worked on. This can be very impractical, especially for businesses. There may also be costs for the removal and storage of furniture or equipment while the floor in the room is dried.

How does Arxell speed up the drying of a floor?

Arxell works with existing heat drying and dehumidification equipment to increase efficiency and speed drying of wet areas such as floors.

The Arxell units are linked together to cover the wet surface. You can use as many as needed to cover the entire area. Fans, heaters and dehumidifiers are then connected to the units and the drying air is distributed evenly across the floor.

Since the devices create a microclimate above the floor, the drying takes place in a targeted manner. This eliminates the need to heat or dehumidify the entire room to dry the floor. This speeds up the drying process considerably. In fact, tests have shown that the floor dries up to three times faster with the Arxell system than with traditional methods alone.

Arxell is much more energy efficient than using other drying methods alone, so better for the environment and saves money.

The Arxell units are also extremely durable, meaning they can be walked on during the drying process. The drying takes place below the devices, so that the rest of the room is not affected. You can place furniture on top of the units and continue working while the floor dries underneath. This causes less disruption for businesses than having to move while the floor dries or having to pay for furniture to be removed and put away.

If repairs need to be made elsewhere in the room, it also means the handymen can do them without having to wait for the floor to dry.

Want to learn more about Arxell?

Arxell is a very simple but effective drying system. It’s designed to work with existing drying equipment, rather than replace it, and is extremely efficient. There are many benefits to using the Arxell system to dry floors and other surfaces.

Arxell doesn’t just work with accidental water damage. It can also be used to dry building materials such as plaster, concrete and screed. The temperature and humidity can be controlled, which can be very beneficial in the construction industry.

The units are very durable and long-lasting, allowing them to be used over and over again with minimal maintenance. They are easy to stack, pack and transport and are designed for easy handling.

If you would like to learn more about how Arxell is revolutionizing the drying industry or would like a demonstration, please contact us.

After water damage in your house, not only the floors are affected, but often the walls as well. So it’s important to know how to dry wet walls – or call a restoration company right away. Rapid drying reduces the risk of structural damage and prevents mold growth.

Understand how water saturates drywall

Before you learn how to dry a wall after water damage, here’s a look at how water soaks through drywall. Water entering a room from the ground covers the floor and flooring. It then begins to “wick” up the wall due to capillary action in porous materials. The extent of this movement depends on the wall construction, the amount of water and the height of the water on the wall material.

Drywall is an absorbent material that contains plaster and a cardboard-like paper on both sides. Drywall can soak up water up to 30 inches! The water will be present on both sides of the wall. However, it is often higher on the inside because evaporation is restricted on that side of the drywall. While water damage is sometimes visible, sometimes the wall doesn’t show any signs of that moisture.

How to dry a wall after water damage

First, decide whether you want to solve the problem yourself or call a professional company. We recommend the latter if you do not know how to dry wet walls or the damage is extensive. Sometimes water damage is obvious, but more often than not it is hidden and may be missed by those not trained in water damage restoration.

If you want to DIY, here’s how to dry wet walls:

If a burst pipe has caused water ingress, turn off the water source. Hire a plumber to fix the broken pipe before it can be dried.

Speed ​​up drying by opening windows and doors. Use fans to move air around the damp walls. Dehumidifiers can help remove moisture from the air, which indirectly removes it from walls as well.

To speed up evaporation, remove trim and baseboards to prevent moisture from getting in behind them. Store the molding in a dry, safe place to avoid damage. Also remove items hanging on the wall, such as paintings and portraits.

Remove the wallpaper if you have one. This requires patience but is important as the wallpaper will form a ‘seal’ that will keep moisture in the wall. Wallpaper removers that loosen the adhesive are available at your hardware store. You will also need 3-6 inch wide knives to scrape the wallpaper after peeling it off.

Note that the walls will take time to dry completely, so don’t rush the post-processing until the walls are dry. A moisture meter can help you be sure. Once it’s completely dry, you can reverse the process and repaint your room. Check the removed parts for moisture or mold before reinstalling them.

Drying wet walls quickly and properly is crucial. If you can’t dry your walls right away, don’t make the problem worse by waiting. Call a water damage restoration specialist and leverage their expertise, experience and equipment.

How renovation professionals dry damp walls after water damage

First, the technicians use a variety of water damage restoration tools to determine the extent of the water. One choice is a non-invasive moisture meter. This meter uses radio waves to test for water without drilling holes in the wall.

Another professional tool is an infrared (IR) imaging camera. Because evaporation from wet walls makes them cooler than dry walls, the IR camera can find water in walls. This is done without holes or other interventions in the wall material.

Once professionals identify wet walls, they use special drying equipment to dry them.

If the walls are not insulated:

In this case, the renovation professional can dry out wet walls without drilling or removing the skirting board. The technicians place heavy-duty air movers along the wall every 10 to 14 feet. These air movers remove moisture from the wall surface and quickly evaporate it. As the moisture evaporates, more moisture rises to the surface where it evaporates.

The sanitation expert will also install a low-grain refrigerant dehumidifier in the damp wall. Depending on the moisture content, one or more will be needed. This advanced drying equipment reduces humidity to aid in drying and prevent mold growth.

If necessary, the restoration professional will install an interior wall drying system by making small holes over the sill plate and forcing air into the wall cavity. Studies have shown that this solution is the best and fastest way to dry water damaged walls.

Also, if there is a moisture barrier on the outside or inside of the wall, the drying schedule changes. Moisture barriers are coatings or materials that prevent the movement of moisture out of the wall material.

Most latex paints are permeable and do not form a barrier. However, glossy paint can provide a barrier, and enamel paint or vinyl wallcovering provides a complete barrier. Technicians must perforate or remove them to allow moisture to escape and allow the walls to dry. If there is plastic or film on the inside of the wall, technicians will need to remove the wall. This is because drying is not done properly and mold forms in such situations.

If the walls are insulated:

In the case of fiberglass insulation with paper lamination, inner wall drying can be used as described above. However, if the insulation is foil-faced fiberglass, blown cellulose, or a Styrofoam material, it will not dry successfully.

In these cases, it is necessary to remove the damaged part of the wall along with the insulation to allow for quick drying and prevent mold growth.

Monitoring of the drying system

Regardless of the methods used by the restoration professional, homeowners should know that the equipment must be operated uninterrupted throughout the drying process.

Finally, the drying system is monitored at least once a day by restoration professionals. This ensures that the equipment is working properly during the drying process. Monitoring includes moisture measurements to determine when materials are drying successfully. Material dryness is measured against similar unaffected contents in this structure. When the drying levels are equal, the drying is complete and the equipment removed.

To recap: How to dry damp walls

After addressing the water source, remove paintings and other items from the wall. Then remove moldings, baseboards and wallpaper. Open windows and doors to speed up the drying process. Use fans to move air around the damp walls. Also, use dehumidifiers, which can help remove moisture from the air and walls. Professionals use tools such as moisture meters, infrared imagers, dehumidifiers, and high-power fans. This ensures that the walls are really dry before further repairs, painting or refinishing.

Turn to the professionals for drywall water damage drying and repair!

A professional restoration company like PuroClean understands and applies the principles and procedures of drying damp walls. For an efficient drywall water damage repair, contact your local PuroClean office. Our trained and certified technicians can dry walls and other items quickly and thoroughly, preventing further damage and mold growth.

Drying up after water damage should be at the top of any cleaning priority list.

If you can dry items within 48 hours, you can save many goods and avoid mold and rust.

1. Moving air naturally

If the humidity is not too high, open windows and doors to start air circulation. Open closet and cupboard doors and remove drawers.

2. Move air mechanically

Rent or buy powerful fans to boost airflow. Depending on their size and performance, fans cost between 50 and 500 US dollars to purchase; $20 per day for rent. (Don’t use your central air conditioning or furnace blower if the HVAC ducts were submerged.)

3. Dehumidification

A portable dehumidifier can remove water vapor from the air in enclosed spaces like a downstairs bedroom or recreation room. Close the room’s windows and doors to prevent more moisture from entering. Buy a large dehumidifier ($270) so you don’t have to empty the water drawer frequently.

4. Pump water

A sump pump is a submersible pump that continuously pumps water out of the house through a hose or pipe. If you have standing water that is a few inches deep, a sump pump can help. Rent a sump pump for about $44 a day or buy one for $100 and up.

5. Wet/Dry Shop Vac

Some workshop vacuums are designed for use in wet conditions. These vacuum cleaners suck water out of carpets and give you a chance to save carpets and wall to wall. Do not use an ordinary household vacuum cleaner, the insides of which are not protected against water. A 6-gallon wet/dry vacuum is $50; a 16-gallon goes for about $170.

6. Remove soaked items

Expose wet carpets and furniture to the sun to reduce internal moisture levels. Remove vinyl or linoleum floors to encourage maximum evaporation. Throw wet insulation under floors.

7. Freeze papers

To buy time, place wet books and photos in plastic bags and place in a frost-free freezer. This stops further deterioration and prevents mold and mildew stains. If you have time, take the books out of the freezer and let the pages air or fan dry.

8. Absorb moisture

Desiccants (silica gel, alumina, calcium oxide) absorb moisture like a sponge. Place permeable packages containing desiccants and wet items in airtight containers or sealed areas such as closets. Some desiccants change color to indicate they are saturated, which can take days or weeks depending on how much moisture the items contain.

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