How Much Are Frozen Rats? The 25 Correct Answer

Posted on March 1st, 2012 by Ashley Palmer. Last updated August 8, 2017.

The following article was written by Alicia Woempner.

As a vegetarian college student who loved animals, I was thrilled when I was offered a summer job at PETCO. I was thrilled to spend my days talking to animal rights activists and meeting their furry companions, who would often accompany them into the store to tend to the birds, reptiles, fish, guinea pigs and other small animals. However, I quickly realized that this store, which seemed like heaven to me, was actually hell for the animals that lived there.

The first shock came when I noticed a large open wound on the face of a small white mouse. When I immediately informed my supervisor, I was told not to worry as the animal was “just a feeding mouse”. This is because PETCO stocks live mice and rats that are sold as food for “pet” snakes. Mice and rats placed in a cage with a snake can spend hours or even days trembling in fear before the snake eventually becomes hungry enough to eat them (which may or may not happen), and they may even attack and injure the snake in an attempt to defend itself. I will never forget how horrified I was every time a customer walked into the store wanting to buy a “feed mouse” or rat, knowing I was responsible for feeding any mouse or rat I could catch terror and a horrible death and wrestle in a box. I noticed sick or injured “feeder mice” on a daily basis, and having lived with a companion mouse, I was heartbroken to see the suffering these intelligent, affectionate animals endured in a business that claims that “animals always come first.” stand. ”

PETCO also sells live “feeder fish” for turtles and reptiles that people keep in captivity as “pets.” These small goldfish are kept in their hundreds in huge, heavily overcrowded tanks without enrichment. The death toll at the store I worked at was such that part of the closing procedure each day was to take out the dead “feeder fish” that had been sucked into a filter, wrap them in a plastic bag and putting them in the filter “dead” freezer, along with dead rats, mice, hamsters, birds and other victims. There were so many fish in the filter each day that it was impossible to separate those that were alive and breathing but too weak to swim out of the filter, so they were thrown into the freezer with the dead ones. (Whether they suffocated or froze to death beforehand, I don’t know.) Of course, we also “counted dead” all of the aquarium fish on a daily basis, since they, like the other animals in the store, are seen by the company as disposable goods.

One of the most gruesome incidents I witnessed was the result of the intense confinement that the animals in the store are subjected to. Birds that would fly, migrate, nest and raise their own families in the wild are kept in overcrowded cages and are denied the opportunity to engage in their natural behavior which can lead to them going insane. One night after I closed, I heard a cacophony of screeches coming from the parakeet cage. A colleague and I ran over and found that one parakeet had been the victim of frantic pecking by cagemates – the other birds had pecked all the flesh from the animal’s head, completely exposing the skull. I asked to be allowed to take the bird to a 24 hour vet to mercifully euthanize and was eventually granted, but only after wasting valuable minutes on the phone asking for permission, the extra money to spend on an emergency vet . When I got to the doctor, the budgerigar was already dead. I will never forget this bird.

The “goods” in the store can also be “damaged” by careless employees. One person I will always remember was a tiny baby chameleon whose back was broken when a worker accidentally slammed the animal’s cage door shut. The chameleon died the next day without the dignity of euthanasia.

These are just some of the incidents I have witnessed as a PETCO employee, but undercover agents have also uncovered horrific animal cruelty at the breeding facilities that supply PETCO and PetSmart, among others. I challenge you to learn more about the terrible pet industry. As you can imagine, I didn’t last very long at this job, but I will always regret having been involved in such a small way in such a cruel industry. I hope you will join me in boycotting retailers like PETCO and PetSmart who still sell animals and that you commit to always adopting pets and never buying pets.

What do snakes eat?

All snakes are carnivores. Their diet depends on the species. Some eat warm-blooded prey (eg, rodents, rabbits, birds), while others eat insects, amphibians (frogs or toads), eggs, other reptiles, fish, earthworms, or snails. Snakes swallow their food whole. The most popular pet snakes usually eat prey such as mice, rats, gerbils, and hamsters. Larger pet snakes will also eat whole rabbits.

“All snakes are carnivores.”

Because snakes eat all prey whole, it is easier for their owners to feed them wholesome diets and certainly prevents many of the diet-related diseases common to other reptiles. Whole prey items such as mice and rats are a complete and balanced diet for a snake. However, some people have a problem feeding reptiles whole prey. If you’re squeamish about feeding your snake rodents when they’re already available in stores dead and frozen and all you need to do is thaw them and offer them to the snake, a snake probably isn’t the right pet for you!

“Live prey should not be fed to snakes.”

Live prey should not be fed to snakes as the prey not only suffers from psychological stress while being chased by the snake but also threatens to injure the snake by biting it before it is eaten. Even a small mouse can bite and seriously injure a pet snake, spreading a serious, potentially life-threatening infection through the bite.

Snakes should be trained to eat dead prey. It’s more humane for the prey and safer for the snake. Snakes can be offered either thawed, previously frozen prey, or freshly killed. You don’t have to kill the prey yourself, as most pet stores will supply freshly killed or frozen rodents for feeding.

How often should I feed my snake?

It all depends on your snake’s age, size, and activity level. Smaller or younger snakes typically feed twice a week, while larger, more mature snakes typically feed once or every two weeks. Female snakes approaching breeding season may be fed more frequently. Your veterinarian can give you more specific feeding advice based on your snake’s individual needs. Your pet will let you know how often it needs to eat by its response to your food offerings. If he eats, he was hungry and needed to be fed. If he doesn’t eat it right away, he’s not hungry and probably hasn’t needed to be fed yet.

My snake won’t eat! What’s happening?

There are many reasons a pet snake may not want to eat, from benign causes such as stress in a new or disturbed environment, noise, lack of privacy, inappropriate ambient temperature, hibernation, molting, pregnancy, or anorexia during the breeding season. to more serious causes, including cancer, kidney failure, parasites, or other health problems. Your veterinarian can help you determine the cause of your snake’s decreased appetite by conducting a thorough physical exam and appropriate laboratory tests.

Do I need to give my snake vitamins?

Usually no. However, since your snake “is what it eats,” it’s important to make sure your snake’s prey is healthy and well fed. Because of this, some snake owners, especially collectors, breed their own rodents to feed to their snakes.

what about water

A large, heavy ceramic pot or bowl (which does not spill easily) and filled with fresh, clean water should be provided at all times. A large enough bowl can help maintain an appropriate level of moisture in the tank, which is crucial to keeping the snake hydrated and helping it shed properly. Some snakes also like to bathe in their water bowl regularly, so the bowl should be large enough to accommodate this. Many snakes will defecate in their water bowl and drink from it, so change the water frequently and wash, disinfect, and rinse the bowl every day.

At Kiezebrink, we understand how overwhelming it can be when it comes to choosing mice to feed your snake. There are many different names for the different sizes of feeder mice, so we’re here to help you make sense of each name and compare the sizes.

General rule of thumb

As your snake gets larger, so will the feeder mice that you need to feed them as part of their healthy diet. To measure, the prey size should be about the same as the widest part of your snake’s body.

Mice Size Chart

Size guide for pinky mice

They are called little mice because they have not yet formed fur and are pink in color. Their size depends on their age. Here is a size chart for extra small, small and large pinky mice:

Extra Small Pinky Mice: They are only 1 day old and weigh between 1.5 and 1.99 g.

Little Pinky Mice: They are 1-2 days old and weigh between 2-2.49 g.

Large Pinky Mice: They are between 3 and 4 days old, weigh 2.5 to 2.99 g and measure 0.5 to 1 inch.

Size guide for fuzzy mice

Also known as peach fuzzies or fuzzies or mouse downs, they would start to develop a light coat depending on their age. Here is a guide for small and large fuzzy mice:

Small fuzzy mice: They are between 5 and 9 days old and weigh between 3 and 4.49 g.

Large fuzzy mice: They are between 10 and 13 days old and weigh between 4.5 and 6.99 g.

Size guide for subadult mice

This category of mice refers to those old enough to have their eyes fully open, with a fur coat, and would be able to eat and drink independently. Here is a size chart for small and medium sized subadult mice.

Small subadult mice: They are between 14 and 19 days old and weigh between 7 and 12.99 g.

Medium subadult mice: They are between 20 and 24 days old and weigh between 13 and 17.99 g.

Size guide for adult mice

This category of mice refers to those old enough to reproduce. Here is a size chart for large/adult and extra-large adult mice.

Large/adult mice: They are between 25 and 30 days old and weigh between 22 and 30 g.

Extra Large/Jumbo Mice: They are between 5 and 6 months old and weigh between 30g and more.

Frozen Mice by Kiezebrink

If you are still unsure about which mice to feed your snake, it is always best to choose a size that is too small rather than too large, as this can lead to major health problems. At Kiezebrink we have a wide range of frozen feeding mice:

mouse pink

mouse fluff

little mice

normal mice

big mice

jumbo mice

Unrated mice

Each category indicates weight so you can find the perfect ones for your snake. If you need advice on which is best for your pet, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

The modern family owns many exotic pets that were not popular a few decades ago, such as snakes, reptiles, and even mice and rats. As we gain more knowledge about these animals, we can take better care of them and learn that many of these animals make fantastic pets.

If you’ve been thinking about buying a rat for your home but want to know if they make good pets and where to buy one, you’ve come to the right place. We’re going to list the benefits of owning a pet rat in a moment, as well as any downsides, and we’ll also list some places where you can buy one.

Is owning a rat a good idea?

Rats can make amazing pets. They are clean and constantly groom themselves like cats. They also preen each other, so they rarely need to be bathed. They also like to arrange their food in small piles to keep their area clean. Rats are also extremely intelligent and can learn tricks and solve puzzles. They can catch a ball, jump through hoops, and even respond to their name. They form a lifelong bond with their owners and enjoy snuggling and snuggling. The downside of owning a rat is that they often require medical attention and require multiple check-ups with a knowledgeable rat veterinarian. Another disadvantage is that they have a short lifespan and most only live 2-3 years.

retail outlets

Visit the Petsmart website Petsmart is a great retail store where you can buy a pet rat and all the supplies you need to raise it. They have many locations and each store also has supplies for cats, dogs, birds, reptiles, fish and more. This large company has numerous sales and knowledgeable staff who you know will even ship items right to your doorstep.

Petco Visit Their Website Petco is similar to Petsmart in that it is a large chain with many stores that you can visit to see firsthand the animal you are interested in. There is a wide range of rats to choose from to keep as pets and they have everything you need to house and raise them. It also has everything you need for cats, dogs, birds, reptiles and more, and they even offer services like grooming and training.

Online Points of Sale

There are many ways to buy pet rats online, but make sure there are ways to ensure the safety of your new pet when they are delivered to your home. This is something to inquire about with a prospective breeder.

Adopt a Pet Visit their website Adopt a Pet is a fantastic online service that allows you to adopt your pet rat from anywhere in the United States. You enter the animal you are looking for, your zip code and some other information, e.g. For example, how far you are willing to drive and you will be presented with a list of options. With a bit of luck you can find one within a few miles of your home that is cheaper than what you might find in a retail store.

AllClassifieds Visit their website AllClassifieds is another online service that connects people with people who want to sell rats in their area. Most owners post pictures of the rat along with the price they are asking and their location. You can contact them for more information or to make a purchase.

summary

Rats make great pets as long as you are okay with them only living to 2-3 years. They are extremely intelligent and enjoy being around people. If you let them, house rats will often sit on your lap or shoulder for an hour or more every day, and you may be carrying them around more than you ever thought. It’s surprisingly easy to find a pet rat at many local pet stores without having to contact a breeder, and you might even find one online for less.

Selected image source: Kirill Kurashov, Shutterstock

Ball pythons are important pest controllers in Africa; They feed on rats, mice and birds. Ambush predators, these strong snakes use their colorful scale patterns to blend in with their surroundings and ambush prey.

As pets, ball pythons feed on rodents and will happily eat either live or already killed prey.

But how much should you feed and how often?

Feeding charts are an essential resource for ball python owners of all experience levels. They help understand the relationship between snake size, age, and prey.

Read on for our complete guide to ball python feeding. We share the best feeding schedules (for all ages), tips, and beginner mistakes to avoid.

What Do Ball Pythons Eat?

Ball pythons are carnivores that hunt and eat small mammals and birds. In their native range of west and central Africa, they favor African giant rats, black rats, grass mice, weaver birds, and red-nosed rats. However, their prey is not limited to these animals, they will feed on any bird or mammal small enough to be swallowed.

Like all pythons, this species is an ambush predator that sits and waits for prey to come to them.

Pythons use a combination of chemical signals, movement, and vision to find prey. As soon as they find prey, they strike and then kill it with constriction. They use their unique and irregular color patterns to blend in with their surroundings. This is one of the reasons why there are many natural ball python morphs.

Their ambush hunting strategy and slow metabolism keep these snakes running between meals for weeks or even months.

Male and female ball pythons differ in the type of prey they eat. Males live more in trees than females and therefore eat more birds than mammals. Females spend more time on the ground and subsequently eat more mammals than birds.

Unlike other pet snake species, ball pythons do not eat food such as amphibians, eggs, fish, or other reptiles.

Ball pythons are primarily fed on house mice, rats and chicks.

Just like wild pythons eat a variety of prey, it’s also important for your pet snake to have variety. Mice and rats are a ball python’s staple diet, but the occasional addition of chicks, quail, or young rabbits can be an enrichment.

Wild ball python diet Captive ball python diet African giant rats House mice Red-nosed rats Black rats Shaggy rats Chicks Weaver birds Quail Grass mice Gerbils Shrews Rabbits

Ball pythons can go without food for long periods of time. Their ability to fast helps them survive a period of drought or hatch their eggs. But just because these snakes can go long without food doesn’t mean they should.

It is your job to feed your snake prey, which will provide good nutrition without underfeeding or overfeeding.

The best way to ensure your python is getting the right amount of food is to use a feeding schedule.

Sticking to a feeding schedule is important to accurately regulate your ball python’s weight.

Schedules help ensure your python doesn’t go hungry, but you can also easily track and adjust the amount you feed to prevent overfeeding. Knowing when your snake last fed will help you be alert to feeding anomalies, such as: B. Refusal.

Ball Python Feeding Chart

A ball python feeding chart will change as they grow and age.

Young pythons need to feed more frequently than an adult male, which grows very slowly. Younger people need a lot of energy to invest in rapid body growth. Nutritional needs differ even in adult pythons depending on whether they are pregnant or preparing to breed.

Exact feeding requirements vary from person to person, but there are guidelines for how much the average python needs to eat based on size and age.

Snake age Snake weight Prey size Frequency Hatchling 50-100 g Hopper mouse or small rat (8-12 g) Every five days 3 months 120-200 g Small mouse or fuzzy rat (13-19 g) Once a week 6 months 300-370 g Adult mouse or rat pup (20-30 g) Every 7-10 days 1 year 500-900 g 1-3 adult mice or 1 small rat (45-80 g) Every 10-14 days 1.5 years 700-1500 g 3-5 adult mice, 1 medium-sized rat or 2 small rats (80-150 g) Every 10-14 days 3 years 1200-1800 g 4-5 adult mice, 1 medium-sized rat or 2 small rats (90-150 g) Every 14 – 21 days 5 years+ 1800 – 2300 g 4 – 5 adult mice, 1 medium rat or 2 small rats (90 – 150 g) Every 21 – 50 days

The size of your python will determine what prey you should feed.

A good rule of thumb is to feed prey that is wider than most of your python’s midsection. Hatchlings can be started with small mice, while adults may be able to eat large rats.

hatchlings (baby)

Young pythons grow very fast! Females can grow up to 12 inches in a year and males can grow 8 inches per year. In order to keep up with their growth, young animals have to eat a lot. They should be fed a bouncy mouse every five days for the first four weeks of life.

This is also the time when you should make sure their feeding response is strong and that they are capable of accurately attacking prey.

Overfeeding ball python chicks is not a problem due to their extremely high metabolism.

3 months old

Pythons under one year old are considered juveniles. Adolescents are still growing at a tremendous rate. To maintain this growth, they need to eat a small mouse or fuzzy rat every week.

During this growth phase, you may need to increase your snake’s prey on a regular basis. The prey should be no larger than the widest part of your snake’s body, this will help your snake swallow and digest the rat with ease.

6 months old

By six months, your python should be between 20 and 27 inches tall and have a good appetite. They can now offer a larger prey item for longer periods of time. A rat pup or adult mouse every ten days works well for most people.

1 year old

Meanwhile, male and female ball pythons will differ in size. Females are consistently larger than males. This size difference means you may need to feed male and female pythons different prey. Smaller males can have 1-3 adult mice and larger females can have one rat.

You should still feed the prey based on the size of your individual python.

A small 1-year-old female may not be big enough for a rat, or a particularly large male may swallow a rat with ease.

3 years old

By the age of three, ball python growth begins to slow significantly. It is also the age at which males become sexually mature.

You can now start doing the biweekly feedings and slightly increase the prey size again. The prey should be slightly smaller than the widest part of your snake. Bigger snakes need bigger prey, but less often.

Pythons at this age often become overweight because their owner continues to use a juvenile feeding schedule (i.e. feeds every 5-7 days). Make sure you only feed every two or three weeks.

5 years old

Both male and female ball pythons are fully grown by the age of five. Interestingly, they will continue to grow gradually for the rest of their lives.

Your ball python should now be a consistent weight (unless used for breeding) and your feeding schedule shouldn’t need to change. Most adults are happy with a single medium-sized rat, two small rats, or 4-5 large adult mice every one to two months.

breeding females

Female ball pythons do not feed while laying and incubating eggs, and their energy requirements increase significantly during ovulation. Because of this, a breeding female needs to be fed a lot before she lays.

Feed a pregnant python a large rat once a week from the time she shows the first signs of ovulation until she lays. Feed her as long as she will eat to maintain that weight. This helps build up fat reserves for post-laying when she’s guarding the eggs. Make sure a female weighs at least 1,500 grams before breeding.

breeding male

Unlike females, breeding males only need energy for mating.

Breeding males only require a minor increase in their feeding and this depends on the frequency of use.

If you only breed a male dog once, he will be fine with his normal feeding schedule. If you breed him with more than two females over several days or weeks, increase his meals to every 14 days during that time.

Feed ball python

Feeding a ball python can be done in two ways: by using live or pre-killed prey.

Using live prey may feel more natural for a beginner, but mice and rats can do serious damage to your python. Especially when both animals are kept together in a very small space.

We highly recommend feeding your frozen rodents python.

While both methods are used by snake keepers, feeding pre-killed prey is both safer for your snake and more convenient for you.

Pre-butchered prey is sold frozen at most pet stores and can be easily thawed before feeding. Ball pythons happily eat frozen and thawed prey, but snakes that have previously eaten live prey may take some time to get used to dead prey.

Ball pythons are nocturnal, so the best time to feed is in the evening or just after you’ve turned off the lights.

How to feed a ball python frozen and thawed prey

Thaw your prey/rat in the refrigerator five hours before feeding (2 hours for a mouse). Alternatively, rodents can be kept in the fridge overnight to thaw before feeding day. Never attempt to thaw a frozen rat in the microwave, as it may heat up unevenly or explode. After the prey is thawed, place it in a plastic bag. Place the plastic bag in warm water and allow it to heat to around 110°F. Dry the rat. Pick up the rat by the tail with soft-nosed pliers and offer it to your snake. A pair of pliers will keep your snake from touching your hand with the food and give you extra room in case it misses a strike. Alternatively, you can place the heated rodent on the bottom of the tank. Remove the prey if it hasn’t been eaten for 12 hours.

How to feed a ball python live prey

Choose a rat that is smaller than the widest girth of your python. Check that the rat is free of injuries and parasites. Use soft forceps to pick up the rat by the tail. Open your python’s enclosure or the lid of its feeder and let the rat dangle in front of its head. The rodent’s movements, combined with its scent, should entice your snake to strike. Never drop the rat on your snake or let it loose in your snake’s enclosure.

tips and mistakes

Ball pythons are forgiving of feeding mistakes, although you should still do your best to avoid them in the first place. Many errors are the result of misinformation and can be easily corrected.

Below are some of the most common ball python feeding mistakes that we see in beginners.

overfeeding

Because ball pythons are naturally heavy, it can be difficult to tell if they are overweight.

Overfeeding can be avoided by sticking to a regular feeding schedule and consistently monitoring your python’s body score:

Healthy individuals should have a hard, fairly triangular body shape when viewed from the front. They should not have a protruding back.

Obese individuals have a round or slightly flattened body, are soft to the touch, and have folds of fat around the head and cloaca.

Good management of your python’s feeding habits will help you maintain your snake at a healthy weight. Not too thin and not thick.

Feeding in the enclosure

It might not seem like a mistake to feed your snake in its terrarium, but it can cause some unintended behavioral problems.

Your ball python will quickly learn that opening the enclosure doors = feeding time.

This can cause it to bang when the doors are opened, even for cleaning or fiddling.

It is best to feed your python in a separate feeding enclosure. This can be something as simple as a plastic bucket or an empty fish tank, provided it’s safe and big enough.

After feeding, return your snake to its enclosure and leave it alone for up to 72 hours.

Handling after feeding

Reptiles have slower metabolisms than mammals and take longer to digest their food.

Handling your ball python after eating is uncomfortable and stressful for them. An interruption can even cause a burp.

Be sure to give your snake plenty of privacy while it eats and digests prey.

After eating, leave your snake alone for 72 hours or until it shows just a slight bulge. After this time, your Python should be digested long enough for normal handling to be fine.

power supply

Power feeding means feeding a ball python more than once a week. This is a controversial practice used by some ball python breeders to quickly add weight to their snake.

Power feeding quickly leads to obesity and can shorten your snake’s lifespan. It shouldn’t be done.

vitamins and dietary supplements

Unlike many pet reptiles, healthy ball pythons do not require any additional vitamin or mineral supplements.

If you feed quality rats, all the nutrients they need will be in their prey.

summary

Your ball python should eat weaned mice and young rats as a juvenile, and adult rats and several mice as adults, supplemented with the occasional chick, quail, or gerbil.

Ball python feeding charts should vary based on size, sex, and age. Of course, no table will give you the exact requirements for your individual snake.

They should be used as a starting point based on the average weight of your snake. Adjust them to fit your snake based on its growth rate and size.

Have we cleared up your feeding questions? Let us know in the comments below!

Like other snakes, corn snakes are carnivores — and they’re not very picky. In the wild, they are known to eat mice, rats, birds and bats (The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Reptiles & Amphibians, 1979, p. 605). They even occasionally eat lizards and insects (source)!

If you are caring for a carnivorous pet, you must be prepared to feed a variety of whole animal prey items so that the corn snake receives a balanced diet. Here’s what you need to know about feeding a pet corn snake:

Feeding Guidelines by Snake Length:

Hatchlings (<18″ long) should be fed once every 5-7 days. (<18″ long) should be fed once every 5-7 days. Juveniles (18-36″ long) should be fed once every 7-10 days. (18-36″ long) should be fed once every 7-10 days. Adults (>36″ long) should be fed once every 10-14 days.

Offer prey that is between 1-1.5 times the width of your snake’s body at its widest point (don’t worry about head size – snakes are very flexible). Depending on the size of the feeder and the age of your snake, you can offer two prey items in one feeding session.

Choose a schedule that will maintain the growth of a hatchling/juvenile or a constant weight of an adult. Weighing your snake weekly with a kitchen scale can help you determine what is working best and track trends in growth or weight loss. It’s okay to vary the intervals at which you offer loot!

Frozen/thawed or alive?

The generally accepted practice for corn snake food is to use captive-bred prey that has been humanely euthanized and frozen, rather than alive. This is because live eaters will fight the snake tooth and claw for their lives — sometimes resulting in injury. Also, “stunning” a live eater by banging its head against a hard object discourages it from fighting back, but it’s also incredibly inhuman. For this reason, ReptiFiles advises against using this feeding method.

Corn snakes generally have a fairly enthusiastic feeding response, so they don’t have much of a problem eating frozen/thawed prey.

Prepare a frozen rodent 1 day in advance by sticking it in the refrigerator to thaw slowly. This inhibits bacterial growth that would otherwise make your snake sick. Then, right before feeding, place the feeder in a BPA-free plastic bag and submerge in warm, almost hot, water for 15-30 minutes. The feeder should reach around 100°F as this is close to the body temperature of a living rodent. This simulates body heat and encourages the snake to eat.

By using frozen and thawed food, you can enhance your snake’s “hunting” experience and encourage its feeding response by wiggling the feeder to simulate a fight after the snake has struck and begun to constrict itself. It may seem macabre, but this is for the snake’s mental and physical health.

That being said, you ultimately need to respect your snake’s feeding preferences. If he refuses to eat frozen/thawed, let him live and carefully monitor the interaction. The live rodent should not remain in your corn snake’s enclosure for more than 1 hour. Your pet’s health and nutrition should always be your top priority.

mice or rats?

Mice are the corn snake’s favorite food because they “grow” with the snake. As you probably noticed in the guidelines at the top of the page, a hatchling can handle a small (newborn) mouse, and an adult snake can handle an adult mouse.

Rats can be offered as eaters, but since they tend to be more nutritious than mice, they can actually make a corn snake fat if fed at the same rate as mouse eaters. If using rats as the main food source, feed every 10-14 days for hatchlings and every 14-21 days for adults.

For additional dietary variety, consider adding button quail, quail eggs, green anoles, house geckos, and/or reptile inks to your corn snake’s diet!

Whatever you want to offer, check out ReptiFiles’ list of trusted rodent dealers to find the best feeders on the market. Shipping costs can be a bit high since frozen loot needs to be shipped overnight, so it’s best to buy in bulk. Better yet, order with a friend and split the shipping bill!

Do corn snakes need vitamin supplements?

Although corn snakes, as obligate carnivores, should obtain all of the food they need from the animals they eat, the food of foraging rodents can be inferior to the food of wild prey. Some studies suggest that commercially bred foraging rodents are deficient in important nutrients such as vitamin D, which in turn negatively impacts the health of the snakes that eat them.

As a result, there is a risk that a nutrient deficiency will develop over time. Therefore, occasionally lightly dusting prey with an all-in-one calcium and multivitamin supplement helps to fill in the gaps in your snake’s diet:

Due to the natural breakdown of certain vitamin components, dietary supplements should be replaced every 6 months.

Should I feed my corn snake in a separate enclosure?

There is a common misconception among snake owners that feeding a snake in their enclosure makes them “cage aggressive.” Modern understanding of snake psychology argues that our perception of “aggression” is wrong; Snakes that have learned to associate opening the enclosure with food (due to infrequent handling) will pounce on the first object they see, assuming it is food – no harm to the hand of the zookeeper intended.

So instead of being made to feed, the snake should be trained to tell the difference between feeding time and handling time. The most reliable way to do this is to gently pat the snake with a paper towel roll or pet its body with a snake hook before handling it. When the snake strikes, no damage happens. If it doesn’t, it knows not to expect food.

Finally, feed your snake in its home. Unlike humans, snakes don’t particularly enjoy eating out.

I caught a mouse – can I use it as corn snake food?

Sorry, but no. Wild-caught prey can transmit disease or parasites to your snake, which means more vet bills for you later. Do yourself (and your corn snake) a favor by disposing of the mouse elsewhere.

A quick note about water

Always keep a large, heavy bowl of water in the enclosure. Keep the bowl clean and replace the water daily. If it gets soiled beforehand, scrub it with an animal-safe disinfectant such as F10SC, Rescue, or chlorhexidine before refilling.

Note: It is generally believed that distilled, filtered or softened water is better for reptiles than (hard) tap water. That’s wrong. Although it is better to use these for nebulizing as they leave no mineral residue, the lack of minerals after ingestion leads to an osmotic imbalance in the snake’s body. As a result, the body must shed its own minerals and electrolytes to restore balance. Over time, this can even lead to dehydration, even if the snake drinks regularly.

For more information, see Water Treatment Precautions: Hard vs. Soft (Filtered) Water.

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Pinkie mice are the youngest and smallest feeder mice. They are less than 5 days old and have no fur yet. They get their name from their pink coloration. Fuzzies are between 5 days and 2 weeks old. They are just beginning to develop a coat and have not yet opened their eyes. Hoppers are 2 to 3 weeks old. Their eyes are open and they have started to feed themselves. Weanlings are 3 weeks to 1 month old and freshly grown. Mice older than 30 days are considered adults but can come in a variety of sizes.

Pet mice are fun to look at, easy to care for, and place few demands on their owners. They are somewhat shy and more difficult to handle than some larger rodents like rats, but they can learn to be proficient with handling, especially if tamed from an early age. Pet mice come in a variety of colors with fairly short fur. Their rounded ears and long tail have minimal fur. As nocturnal animals, mice are generally most active at night and sleep through the day. In terms of their care, they require a quality rodent feed and regular habitat cleaning.

Species Overview Common Names: Mouse, house mouse Scientific Name: Mus musculus Adult Size: 5 to 7 inches long (including tail), weighing about 1 ounce Lifespan: 1 to 3 years

mouse behavior and temperament

Mice are social animals and like to live with others of their own kind. A pair of hens is the easiest arrangement, although a small group of hens is fine if you make cage space available. Do not allow pairs of males to live together unless they have been littermates, have never been separated, and have a cage large enough for them to have their own space. Unfamiliar males are likely to fight. Also, avoid keeping males and females together unless you want a lot of baby mice in a short amount of time.

Keep mice away from other pets to avoid stress and injury. But they can learn to be comfortable around humans, and many can become hand tame. However, mice that aren’t used to handling—or mice that aren’t handled gently—can bite. Improper handling can also injure a mouse. For example, falling from just a few feet can cause serious damage, as can holding a mouse by its tail. It’s best to keep the mouse directly over your lap or other soft surface in case it escapes your hands.

Mice are quiet pets, although their nocturnal activities may keep you awake if their enclosure is near your bed. Set aside a few hours a week for feeding and keeping the habitat clean.

1:47 Click play to learn more about mice as pets

size info

Mice are about 5 to 7 inches long from nose to tail. Their bodies alone are about 3 inches long. And they weigh about an ounce. Mice become sexually mature at about 2 months of age.

Housing

The size of cage you need depends on how many mice you keep together. A 10 gallon aquarium with a secure mesh top or similarly sized wire cage should be suitable for one to four mice. Wire cages offer better ventilation, although you’ll need to make sure the bar spacing is close enough that your mouse can’t squeeze through. Horizontal bars and multi-level cages are ideal for providing climbing opportunities. Avoid cages with wire floors; a solid floor covering protects the feet of the mice considerably.

Modular plastic cages for hamsters can also be suitable for mice. However, they are often difficult to clean and sometimes poorly ventilated. A determined mouse might even chew through the plastic.

In addition, mice generally enjoy running on wheels (with a solid surface, as wires can be harmful), tunnels, and toys including:

Wooden chewing blocks

Small boxes

ladders

cotton ropes

Paper towel or toilet paper tubes

Small willow balls

In addition to various toys, the habitat should also have a nest box or other type of shelter where the mice can feel safe. Keep the cage away from drafts and direct sunlight.

Specific substrate requirements

At the bottom of the habitat, add a few inches of aspen shavings or undyed paper litter. Avoid cedar and pine litter due to their oils, which can be harmful to mice. Also offer nesting material such as facial tissues, paper towels, or hay. Clean out the nesting material every month or two (frequent changes can be disruptive) unless it becomes soiled. Change the bedding and scrub the enclosure weekly with mild soap and water.

1:29 Watch Now: Tips for caring for a pet mouse

What do mice eat and drink?

Mice should be fed a formulated rodent pellet containing approximately 16% protein, 18% fiber, and 4% fat. Follow the sachet label for the amount to feed and check with your veterinarian. Mice tend to graze during their waking hours (and may even wake up for a snack during their bedtime). Therefore, always keep a small ceramic bowl with food in their habitat for a day. After 24 hours, throw away uneaten food and refill the bowl.

You can supplement your mouse’s diet with seeds and grains, as well as fresh fruits and vegetables. Some options include broccoli, peas, apples, carrots, and cucumbers. Consult your veterinarian regarding the amount and frequency of these supplemental foods, as this can vary depending on a mouse’s size and activity level. Place fresh food in a separate bowl from the pellets and discard after a few hours to prevent spoilage. The best time to feed is in the evening as the mouse wakes up and searches for food.

Also, always have fresh water available for your mouse. Using a water bottle attached to the case is ideal as it is easy to keep hygienic. But also keep a water bowl in the enclosure until you are sure the mouse is using the bottle. Refresh the water daily.

The Spruce / Nusha Ashjaee

Common Health Problems

Tumors are common in mice; usually they are vicious and deadly. Signs include a visible lump or swelling accompanied by lethargy and/or weight loss. Some tumors can be surgically removed but are likely to recur.

Another serious and common health condition in mice and other pet rodents is wet tail, a gastrointestinal condition caused by an overpopulation of bacteria in the digestive tract. It can progress rapidly and be fatal if left untreated. Symptoms include diarrhea, lethargy, loss of appetite, and difficulty walking. An exotic animal vet can treat the condition with antibiotics.

Tip Not every veterinarian is equipped to treat mice. So make sure there is a vet in your area who will take your mice in as patients before you bring them home.

education

To start taming your mice, spend time in their enclosure so they get used to your presence. Hand-offer some favorite treats (try millet or sunflower seeds). This often results in the mice walking on your hands, and from there you can slowly pick them up. When picking up a mouse, try to pick it up by putting your hand under the mouse, but don’t squeeze or hold the mouse’s body.

exercise

Mice need physical activity to prevent obesity and other health problems. As long as you provide a large enough enclosure with an exercise bike, they should be able to meet their activity needs. You can also give them time outside of the cage in a safe place, e.g. B. in a children’s pool whose sides are too high for your mice to climb. Always monitor your mice when they are outside the enclosure.

personal hygiene

Mice are fairly clean animals that groom themselves frequently. You don’t need baths. But occasionally they may need some help with dental care. Mouse teeth grow continuously throughout their lives and are naturally worn down by gnawing on their food and other objects. However, sometimes the teeth become overgrown and need to be trimmed by a veterinarian.

maintenance costs

Your main ongoing expenses for pet mice are their food and bedding. Plan on spending around $20 to $30 a month. They also need to regularly replace chew toys and other worn-out items in the habitat, which costs about $20 on average. Also, make sure you budget for routine checkups and emergency veterinary care.

Pros and cons of keeping a mouse as a pet

Mice are quiet pets and don’t take up much space. They are also social creatures that can learn to be comfortable with being around them. However, they are fragile and require a gentle hand. Also, they are not very long-lived pets.

Similar exotic pets as the mouse

If you are interested in pet mice, also check out:

Otherwise, check out other small rodents that can be your new pet.

Buy or adopt your mouse

Mice can often be found in pet stores. However, going to a reputable breeder or rescue organization is often ideal. They can usually provide better information about their animals’ health and history, and they can even handle their animals to tame them. Expect to pay between $5 and $10 on average, although this can vary depending on factors like the animal’s age.

Mice are one of the cheapest pets, costing $5 to $10. Most pet stores carry them. Look for a pet store or breeder that separates males and females at a young age. Mice can breed at around 6 to 8 weeks of age, although this is very stressful for the female and is not recommended.

reproduction/breeding

Local exotic animal vets can often recommend a good breeder or rescue. The main advantage of going to a breeder is that you are more likely to have a larger selection of younger animals. But even rescue groups often have a decent selection. Visit the mice before choosing one and make sure they are kept in a clean habitat.

When choosing your mouse, look for an alert animal with a smooth, clean coat and pink, clean skin. The eyes and nose should be free of discharge, and the mouth and anal areas should be clean and dry. His droppings should be well formed and not watery. Also, the mouse’s breathing will be relatively rapid, but should not be labored or noisy.

Make sure the seller keeps their male and female mice separate, as mice can start breeding at around 6 to 8 weeks of age. To avoid becoming a random breeder yourself, only keep mice with conspecifics of the same sex.

Step 1

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Corn snake care sheet Pantherophis guttatus

Developed with and approved by a qualified veterinarian. Pantherophis guttatus Developed with and approved by a qualified veterinarian. A species of rat snake, corn snakes are named for the pattern on their ventral scales, which resemble corn, an ancestor of modern corn. Known to be good climbers and escape artists, they are popular pets due to their variety of colors and patterns and generally even-tempered temperament. With regular care, they can be docile, gentle pets. corn snake

Table of Contents Features

habitat size

habitat setup

habitat cleaning

feeding

Care

Recommended accessories

tankmates

Common Health Problems

Frequently Asked Questions Characteristics Care Difficulty Good for novice snake enthusiasts Average lifespan Up to 20+ years with proper care Average adult size 4 to 6 feet long Diet carnivore

Thawed frozen rodents of appropriate size are recommended. Minimum habitat size 10-20 gallons for young corn snakes.

20-40 gallons for adult corn snakes.

Corn snakes reach adult size in 2-3 years. You’ll need to increase your corn snake’s habitat as it grows. corn snake

Habitat Size of Habitat A young snake can live in a 10 gallon tank (or larger if possible) for its first few months as this is a habitat of appropriate size and shape for a colubrid baby to support normal behavior and movement to allow. Corn snakes reach adult size in 2-3 years. You’ll need to increase your corn snake’s habitat as it grows. Adults need a tank with a secure, lockable lid to prevent leakage. Because habitats should be large enough for an adult corn snake to fully stretch out, a 40-gallon breeder or larger tank is recommended. Build Your Habitat Substrate – Paper-based bedding, reptile carpet, and aspen shavings can be used as bedding. If aspen is used, it must be changed weekly, or more often if necessary, to prevent it from becoming excessively wet or soiled. Pine and cedar should not be used as bedding as they contain oils that can irritate the corn snake’s skin

– Paper-based bedding, reptile carpet and aspen shavings can be used as bedding. If aspen is used, it must be changed weekly, or more often if necessary, to prevent it from becoming excessively wet or soiled. Pine and cedar should not be used as bedding as they contain oils that can irritate the corn snake’s skin. Decor – Provide your corn snakes with a hiding place and a place for them to regulate their body temperature by withdrawing from a direct sun area. A log, synthetic or natural, large enough for your snake to fit will do. Although terrestrial, a climbing branch can provide your corn snake with a way to move. Plants and a background can also be added to complement the aesthetic of your living space

– Provide a hiding place and a place for your corn snake to regulate its body temperature by withdrawing from direct sun area. A log, synthetic or natural, large enough for your snake to fit will do. Although terrestrial, a climbing branch can provide your corn snake with a way to move. Plants and a background can also be added to complement the aesthetic of your living space. Temperature – temperature gradient (85°F for warm end; low 70°F for cool end). Radiant heat is recommended with an over-tank heat bulb and/or under-tank heater. Tank temperatures should be monitored daily with at least two thermometers (one in the cool zone and one in the sun zone) or with a penetration thermometer

– Temperature gradient (85°F for the warm end; low 70s°F for the cool end). Radiant heat is recommended with an over-tank heat bulb and/or under-tank heater. Tank temperatures should be monitored daily with at least two thermometers (one in the cool zone and one in the sun zone) or with a point-and-shoot thermometer. Humidity – Maintain 40-60% humidity; higher (70%) during hair loss. A shallow, open bowl of water or a piece of damp paper towel or peat moss and a daily spritz of warm water can help detach

– Maintain 40-60% humidity; higher (70%) during hair loss. A shallow, open bowl of water or a piece of damp paper towel or sphagnum moss and spraying with warm water daily can help shed the light. – Provide 8-12 hours of light daily. All snakes benefit from UVA/UVB light during the day to improve immune system function and promote normal health and behavior. Don’t leave white light on all the time; At night, a night or infrared light should be used

Clean up your corn snake’s habitat

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week: Move the snake to a safe habitat

Scrub the aquarium and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution

Leave the bleach solution in the tank for 10 minutes before rinsing to ensure adequate disinfection; Follow the habitat cleaner manufacturer’s instructions

Rinse thoroughly with water and remove all traces of bleach odor

Completely dry the aquarium and setup and add clean substrate before returning the decoration and corn snake to the aquarium. Feeding What to Feed Your Corn Snake A balanced corn snake diet consists of: Snakes should be fed prey that is about the same size as the snake’s mid-body width

Appropriately sized frozen rodents, thawed or warmed to above room temperature, start with small fingers for young snakes and increase in size to larger mice and rats for adult corn snakes

Live prey should not be fed, as rodents commonly bite snakes, and the wounds can lead to life-threatening infections. If you feed your snake live rodents, do not leave them unattended. Live rodents can injure the snake, sometimes fatally

Things to keep in mind when feeding your corn snake: Fresh, clean water should be available at all times in a bowl large enough for your corn snake to soak in

Feed juveniles once a week, adults every 1-2 weeks

Corn snakes are primarily diurnal and are most active during the day. Ideally, they should be offered meals during the day

Feed in a separate enclosure so your corn snake doesn’t associate your hand or opening their habitat with feeding

Do not use a microwave to thaw frozen rodents or prepare them in the same area where you prepare food. If unavoidable, disinfect the area thoroughly. Refer to the Frozen/Thawed Food Care Sheet for more information. Caring for the Corn Snakes Snakes shed their skin regularly; Make sure the habitat humidity is at an appropriate level (70% during molting) to allow your corn snake to molt properly. Normally, snakes should shed their skin in one piece

Never attempt to remove eye caps (called goggles) yourself. Seek veterinary care

Because all reptiles are potential carriers of infectious diseases such as salmonella, always wash your hands before and after handling your reptile or habitat contents to prevent the potential spread of disease

Pregnant women, children under the age of 5, the elderly, and those with compromised immune systems should consult their healthcare practitioner before purchasing or caring for any reptile and should consider owning a pet other than a reptile. Where can you buy a corn snake? Corn snakes are available at Petco animal care centers. Call ahead to check availability. Reserves of appropriate size habitat

substrate

moss

water bowl

Hidden place

Climbing decor

Plant

radiant heater

UV lamp

UV device

heater

under tank heater

thermometer

moisture meter

Frozen Rodents Tankmates While corn snakes can be very docile to pet parents, once socialized, they prefer to be housed alone. If several corn snakes are kept together, they must be fed in individual enclosures. Health Signs of a Healthy Corn Snake Active and alert

Clear eyes (except for hair loss)

Eats regularly

Good body composition

Healthy, supple, smooth skin

Regularly drains skin in one whole piece

Mite and Tick Free Warning Signs (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian.) Unusually frequent or infrequent molting

Vomit

Lethargic or reluctant to eat

Abnormal droppings

bumps or spots on the skin

Red/pink skin color, possibly indicative of systemic infection

Labored breathing

Blisters from the mouth and nose

Difficulty peeling or peeling off the skin in pieces

White, cheesy substance in the mouth

Common Health Problems Health Problems Symptoms or Causes Suggested Actions Health Problems Dermatitis Symptoms or Causes Blisters or crusting can be caused by burns from a heat pears or hot stones. Rapid or non-detachment or detachment in pieces can be caused by an unclean or too cool or humid habitat and suppress the immune system and lead to secondary bacterial, viral or parasitic infections of the skin. Suggested action Contact your veterinarian, clean up the habitat and lower the humidity. health problem respiratory disease symptoms or causes shortness of breath; mucus in the mouth or nostrils; or blisters from the mouth/nose/eyes. Can be caused by living in too cold or humid conditions, which can suppress the immune system and lead to secondary bacterial, viral or parasitic infections. Suggested Action Contact your veterinarian and keep the snake warm and dry. Health Problem Stomatitis Symptoms or Causes White, cheesy substance in the mouth or scabs in the mouth; loss of teeth and appetite. May be secondary to improper temperature, humidity, or dirty habitat. If left untreated, it can be fatal. Recommended action Consult your veterinarian immediately. Health problem Ticks and mites Symptoms or causes Parasites on the skin can cause dermatitis and transmit diseases. May remain in the environment if not eradicated and properly cleaned. Recommended action Contact your veterinarian. Health problems Lumps or bumps in the skin Symptoms or causes Infections or tumors. Recommended action Contact your veterinarian. corn snake

FAQs What do corn snakes eat? Corn snakes will eat whole, thawed frozen rodents of appropriate size.

Corn snakes will eat whole, thawed frozen rodents of appropriate size. How big do corn snakes get? Corn snakes can grow up to 4-6 feet long.

Corn snakes can grow up to 4-6 feet long. How long do corn snakes live? Corn snakes can live up to 20+ years with proper care.

Corn snakes can live up to 20+ years with proper care. Are corn snakes poisonous? No, corn snakes are not poisonous.

No, corn snakes are not poisonous. What does a corn snake look like? Corn snakes come in a variety of morphs and display unique patterns and colors, including orange, red, brown, white, black, and yellow.

Corn snakes come in a variety of morphs and display unique patterns and colors, including orange, red, brown, white, black, and yellow. How Often Should I Feed My Corn Snake? Young corn snakes should be fed once a week, and adult animals every 10-14 days.

Young corn snakes should be fed once a week, and adult animals every 10-14 days. How long can corn snakes go without food? A corn snake can go weeks to months without food because their metabolism is slow, but they often get sick from going without food for so long. If your pet has missed feeding, seek veterinary attention.

A corn snake can go weeks to months without food because their metabolism is slow, but they often get sick from going without food for so long. If your pet has missed feeding, seek veterinary attention. How often do corn snakes shed? Young corn snakes may shed once a month as they grow. Full grown adults typically shed a few times a year.

Young corn snakes may shed once a month as they grow. Full-grown adults typically shed a few times a year. Where do corn snakes live? Corn snakes are native to the eastern United States but are popular pets due to their even-tempered temperament and ability to manage it. Additional care sheets King and Milk Snake care sheet

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