How To Brown A Gun Barrel With Vinegar? Top Answer Update

Blackening and bluing are terms used to describe any of several chemical treatments of metals, which are essentially controlled rusting processes. On ferrous metals, blueness appears as a dark, protective layer of oxide on the surface.

Probably the earliest surface treatment for metals was blueing. The process was popular with early gunsmiths, and by the 1700’s the process was understood and used by most. The process was understood and applied by most. The process begins by dissolving common table salt in distilled water. The parts to be tanned are cleaned, polished and thoroughly degreased. When a gun barrel was browned, the bore was liberally smeared with grease and sealed at both ends with tapered wooden dowels. Next, the salt water solution was liberally applied to the surfaces to be tanned and the parts left in a humid environment. A thin layer of rust formed within 12 hours. The parts were rubbed lightly with degreased fine steel wool to remove the loose rust, leaving a lightly stained surface. The parts were then recoated and returned to the humid environment to allow further rusting. The cycle of rusting/rubbing-rusting/rubbing was repeated until the desired shade of brown was achieved.

Cold rust bluing is a similar process. A solution of hydrochloric and nitric acid diluted in distilled water with a small amount of iron filings is prepared. As with blueing, the parts to be blued are polished and degreased, the exposed surfaces dabbed with the blueing solution, and the part left in a damp place. After 12 hours, the loose rust is rubbed down with degreased steel wool or a stainless steel wire brush, the surface is recoated with bluing solution, and the part is returned to its wet environment. The process is repeated until a deep blue finish is achieved – which can take five to 10 days. Although a very slow process, cold rust bluing produces a deep blue color that is generally considered the most permanent type of bluing. Like bluing, it can be used on side-by-side or over-and-under shotguns whose barrels are joined by soft solder that would be corroded by hot bluing solutions.

In contrast, hot water bluing processes can produce a deep blue finish in just a few hours instead of several days. Hot water bluing uses a bluing solution containing potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, potassium chlorate, and mercury bichloride that is applied by hand to a clean steel surface that has been heated by immersion in boiling water. After applying the bluing solution, the part is immersed in boiling water for five minutes and then recoated with bluing solution. This cycle is repeated, rubbing down loose rust with degreased 0000 steel wool until a rich blue-black color is achieved.

Hot caustic bluing is a rapid metal treatment process suitable for large volumes. Consequently, it has become the preferred method of bluing by most gun manufacturers today. In this process, the clean metal parts are immersed in a solution of sodium hydroxide salts heated to about 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Halfway through the immersion time, the parts are removed from the bluing tank, quickly chilled in cold water, and then re-immersed in the salts to promote a deeper final color. Finally, the blued parts are removed from the brine, washed in boiling water to remove all traces of salt, and smeared with water-displacing oil. Hot lye cannot be used with non-ferrous metals such as aluminium, magnesium and zinc, as this dissolves and contaminates the blue salts.

Hot bluing is a process commonly used to finish small parts such as pins, screws, triggers and hammers. In this method, the parts are heated to 600-700 degrees Fahrenheit in a propane flame or burning charcoal and then immersed in oil. A variation of this process involves heating the part in a bath of molten potassium nitrate and then immersing the parts in water. Hot bluing produces an attractive deep blue finish depending on the heat and metallurgy of the part. However, this method is not suitable for large parts, as it is difficult to produce a uniform blue tone throughout.

Cold bluing solutions normally work through the chemical action of selenium. The finish produced is not as durable as other blued finishes. Cold blue is therefore not suitable for blueing large parts or entire weapons. However, cool shades of blue are excellent for touch-up work to hide nicks, scratches and imperfections in existing blue finishes, although they may not perfectly match the existing blue.

Note that stainless steel is impervious to most bluing solutions, including instant bluing products.

For firearms enthusiasts, rust is a four-letter word. Barrel rust may not be particularly unsightly (it probably isn’t the first thing you notice), but it can affect your gun’s safety and performance. Rust and dirt inside the barrel will cause a drastic increase in pressure after a cartridge is loaded, resulting in a bulged or split barrel – or possibly even exploding the gun’s action.

It is vitally important that your gun is corrosion free. Proper cleaning and storage is key.

Remember that every shot leaves residue in the barrel, chamber and slide. These residues can accumulate over time. Failure to do so can lead to serious safety problems. Even new firearms require regular cleaning and maintenance.

Zerust tube and barrel strips are among the most effective means of cleaning guns and protecting gun barrels from rust.

How fouling can cause rust in the gun barrel

Every time you use your firearm, the firearm is subjected to action, the chamber ejector and the barrel of the firearm are exposed to copper, plastic, carbon and lead residues. When these contaminants accumulate and combine with moisture, it is known as fouling.

Failure to check this will result in corrosion, one form of which is rust. It usually starts in the barrel of the gun and then creeps into the chamber and ejector. Parts that rust and melt together can cause supply disruptions and fire.

The most common types of pollution come from carbon, copper, lead and plastic. Once fouling occurs, you risk the gun’s reliability, essentially rendering it useless if you’re hoping to use it for work or to protect loved ones. (That’s why law enforcement and the military make gun cleaning after each use such a priority.)

The best way to prevent this is to clean the gun after each use. Cleaning your firearm is the best way to prevent contamination. At the very least, a quick thorough cleaning of the barrel, outer jacket and cartridge chamber is recommended.

It’s also wise to regularly inspect your gun and routinely give it a quick clean, even if it’s not used regularly. Don’t assume it’s safe just because you sealed it in storage, especially if you’re not using vapor corrosion inhibitors as part of your storage plan.

How to Use a VCI Tube & Barrel Strip

To prevent rusting on gun barrels, Zerust offers tube strips that can be used to clean gun barrels, gun barrels or any length of stored ferrous metal tube. These can be cut to length to fit any length.

These easy-to-use keg strips are simply inserted into the keg and sealed on the inside. The air in the tube is filled with a VCI (Vapour Corrosion Inhibitor) protection that eliminates the risk of rust and corrosion. If the ends of the tube are open, the vapor is simply vented.

Written by T. Logan Metesh, published Apr 27, 2022 3:29pm

Gun cleaning solvents remove powder residue, carbon deposits, copper and lead deposits and more to keep your firearms running smoothly. Whether you’re looking to pass your great-grandfather’s lever-action rifle to your kids, or a brand new threaded-barrel pistol for some understated plink fun, the goal is to keep both running smoothly for decades to come.

To do this, you must have a good gun maintenance system in place, which usually involves putting together a gun cleaning kit of your choice, so you can keep your guns clean in any situation. The first step in cleaning a gun is to get rid of any debris from firing. The best way to get rid of all that dirt and residue from shooting is to use the best possible gun solvents.

Things to Consider Before Buying Gun Cleaners

The variety of gun solvents available for purchase varies widely, as does the number of different guns you can purchase. Still, there are definitely some names you’ve no doubt heard of over the years, including Hoppe’s, Break Free, Lucas, Tetra, and Ballistol. All of these are fantastic products so you can’t go wrong with any of them. But how do you differentiate good gun cleaners from the best gun cleaners for you?

Here are a few things to keep in mind about your guns, how you use them, and your shooting habits when deciding on a gun solvent:

Frequency of Use: Do you use your guns infrequently and only need cleaning a couple of times a year, or do you shoot a lot and need to clean your guns fairly regularly?

Are your guns used infrequently and only need cleaning a couple of times a year, or do you shoot a lot and need to clean your guns fairly regularly? Shooting Environment: Are you shooting indoors or outdoors where the weather and natural elements can affect the condition of your gun after a day of shooting?

Are you shooting indoors or outdoors where the weather and natural elements can affect the condition of your gun after a day of shooting? Type of Ammo: Do ​​you shoot corrosive ammo? Maybe use black powder and lead bullets? Or are you using jacketed bullets? The type of ammo and powder you fire can have a big impact on how dirty your gun gets. Some shoot cleaner than others, while others can be much more stubborn if left sitting.

You should also read our advice on gun maintenance, how to clean a gun, and common gun cleaning mistakes so you can avoid them. Take a look at our roundup of the best gun cleaning kits and top gun oils for your maintenance routine. And always remember the 10 rules for safe gun handling.

Why it made the cut

Hoppe’s has been around since 1903, so they really must be doing something right. Otherwise the company would not have existed for so long.

main features

Available in multiple size containers

For use with pistols, rifles and shotguns

Also a great rust preventative

advantages

To be found everywhere

Available in a variety of different delivery media

Removes all types of deposits and deposits

Disadvantages

Iconic scent may not be ideal in hunting situations

The gun care product family no. 9 from Hoppe is legendary. The company’s gun barrel cleaner easily removes powder, lead, and carbon deposits, and loosens any abrasive materials that could damage your gun. This family of products is easy to use, works fast, is extremely efficient and safe. In addition to breaking down dirt quickly, it also prevents rust.

You can buy it in bottles, aerosol cans, and jars to best suit your needs. Because it’s part of the larger No. 9 line, it works incredibly well with their gun oil and grease products. Oh, and who could forget the legendary Hoppe smell? You won’t find it anywhere else.

Why it made the cut

Sage & Braker CLP is non-toxic, non-hazardous and biodegradable. Oh, and it works fine.

main features

Biobased

harmless

Fine mist spray bottle

advantages

Proudly made in the USA

Three in one: clean, lubricate, protect

A little goes a long way

Disadvantages

Expensive

Sage & Braker boldly claims that their CLP is the most advanced and best performing Clean, Lube, and Protect product ever to hit the market. And it does this while remaining non-toxic. The formula is bio-based and non-hazardous. So you can clean your guns without having to open a window.

Sage & Braker’s CLP penetrates down to a microscopic level to remove absolutely all copper, lead and carbon contamination on your gun. Then its lubricating properties ensure improved heat dissipation, which leads to cooler operating temperatures of the weapon when firing. Finally, Sage & Braker’s CLP uses an anti-static formula that greatly reduces static electricity, preventing carbon and other contaminants from sticking the next time you shoot. This in turn means that your gun will be easier to clean after the first use of this CLP.

Best for Rifles: M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner

Best for guns check price

Why it made the cut

The M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner improves the performance of your rifle by removing existing contamination and conditioning the metal to prevent future deposits.

main features

Safe on all metals including titanium, aluminum and stainless steel

Biodegradable and non-toxic formula

Non-flammable

advantages

Completely odorless for those who don’t like gun cleaning smells

Can be used in a tank as an immersion cleaning solvent

Removes even stubborn embedded carbon

Disadvantages

Not suitable for oil-based OEM finishes

It’s just a cleaner; it doesn’t smear

The M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner makes cleaning your rifle even easier as it actually breaks down carbon deposits, allowing the deposits to float freely and clean faster. The M-Pro7 formula is designed to rid your rifle’s gunmetal of all contaminants while depositing a thin, rust-inhibiting film behind it that is not oily or rubbery to the touch. When you have a big cleaning project to tackle, you can use M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner in one tank and use heat and agitation to make cleaning and removing even the most stubborn dirt quick and easy.

While this cleaner is fast and effective, it offers no protection. After cleaning, you need to apply a layer of oil or other protective substance. Also, be careful not to let it come into contact with oil-based paints as it can strip those too.

Best Spray: Ballistol

Why it made the cut

Ballistol has been a proven gun cleaning agent worldwide since 1904. It can clean and protect every part of your firearm, from the action to the stock.

main features

Aerosol or non-aerosol spray options available

Aerosol propellant is a non-CFC propane/butane blend

Also suitable for many other products – not only for weapons

advantages

Does not harden or thicken over time

Protects wooden gun stocks from moisture and vermin

Also available in wipes and large canisters if spray isn’t what you need

Disadvantages

If there are any, I haven’t found them

Ballistol was developed by the Germans for their military and has been used by marksmen, hunters and the military since 1904. Ballistol works wonders on black powder and caustic ammunition remnants, as well as any other type of ammunition and modern smokeless powder. As an added benefit of the Ballistol design, it can be used on any part of your gun, not just the metal. Ballistol’s formula makes it a perfect and safe treatment to preserve gun stock wood and gun sling leather. There is no need to switch between products for complete gun protection.

Sometimes you don’t need a bottle of solvent and it would be much more convenient to spray down your gun instead of having to wipe it down. That’s why Ballistol offers several spray options in addition to regular bottles, cloths and jugs.

Best Cleanser and Lubricant: Break Free CLP

Best Cleaner and Lubricant Check the price

Why it made the cut

Originally developed for the military, Break Free CLP has become the industry standard for military and civilian use due to its versatile use as a gun cleaner and lubricant.

main features

Was the first product of its kind to pass MIL-SPEC 63460

Works in temperatures from -65 F to +475 F

Multiple application methods available

advantages

Will not degrade or solidify over time

Works even after immersion in salt water

Three in one: cleaning, lubricating, preserving

Disadvantages

If there are any, I haven’t found them

Introduced in 1975, Break Free CLP is a standard product for the military. They use a proprietary penetrating formula that breaks down powder fouling, oil, dirt, grease and corrosion that can damage metal. In addition to cleaning, Break Free CLP helps reduce friction, delay wear and stop the build-up of debris that could damage your gun. Finally, CLP creates a long-lasting protective layer that protects all metals from rust and corrosion.

Break Free CLP is available in a variety of options. Choose the standard applicator bottle for on-site use or benchtop cleaning. The spray bottle is perfect for high-volume applications such as B. High-volume shooters who frequently clean their firearms. An aerosol can is perfect for a quick wipe down at home or at the shooting range. Pick up a few and keep them in your range bag, vehicle, and maintenance area.

frequently asked Questions

Q: Should I clean my gun after each use? Cleaning your gun after each use will certainly not harm it. But in most cases it is not necessary. Modern firearms and cartridges are built to standards where they do not foul and/or fail nearly as quickly as guns of a century or more ago. A light day at the range doesn’t usually require a complete dismantling and cleaning. But if that makes you feel better, yes, you can clean your gun after each use. Q: Should you oil the inside of a gun barrel? Yes, you should definitely oil your gun barrel on the inside. All of the burning powder and residues of gunpowder, copper, and lead that may be in your projectiles will accumulate there. After cleaning the barrel, you should lightly coat the inside of the barrel with oil to prolong barrel life. Q: What gun cleaner does the military use? The military uses a variety of gun cleaning solvents. These include Break Free CLP, G96, Radcolube to name a few. You really can’t go wrong with any of these options. They are all premium gun cleaning solvents. The military also use a variety of different gun oils in conjunction with their cleaning solvents. Q: What happens if you never clean your gun? The biggest gun cleaning mistake you can make is just not cleaning your gun. If you never clean your weapon, it will eventually stop working as intended. These failures can include a number of different things, including firing pins that won’t retract, semi-automatic pistol slides that won’t run, turret cylinders that won’t rotate, trigger assembly parts that get stuck, rifle bolts that come loose. t close and go into the battery, and many other ways.

How I made my selection

In my years as a gun historian I have used a variety of products to ensure the guns in a collection remain protected. The primary concern of those in charge of the preservation of museum objects is to ensure their proper condition and longevity. As a result, I’ve also had many conversations with colleagues at similar institutions, not just in the US but around the world, about what we think works best.

There are many different gun solvents on the market and they are not all the same. It’s not like one product is really better than another. In most cases, some of them are very similar. However, you will find that some do more than others. In some cases, less really is more. As such, it may make the most sense for you to have more than one gun solvent on hand.

I can name a dozen of them off the top of my head as I sit here writing this. And there are currently no fewer than four different ones in my cleaning kit. Those on this list were selected using a variety of criteria, including:

Cost: In general, solvents for guns are not expensive. Still, money doesn’t grow on trees and you don’t want to waste your money on products that over-promise and under-deliver. You won’t find them here.

In general, gun solvents are not expensive. Still, money doesn’t grow on trees and you don’t want to waste your money on products that over-promise and under-deliver. You won’t find them here. Distribution: If you see a specific product on every weapon bank, chances are it’s no coincidence. There are some gun solvents that are everywhere and have been for decades, and with good reason.

If you see a specific product on every gun bench, chances are it’s no coincidence. There are some gun solvents that are everywhere and have been for decades, and with good reason. Application: The gun solvents on this list are available in a variety of application methods. This is important as not everyone wants or needs a giant bottle of oil when a precision applicator or spray can is really needed.

The gun solvents on this list are available in a variety of application methods. This is important as not everyone wants or needs a giant bottle of oil when a precision applicator or spray can is really needed. Performance: If a gun solvent doesn’t work well, it’s not worth using. That’s pretty easy, isn’t it? You have to rely on it to clean, lubricate and protect your guns.

Final Thoughts

Choosing a good gun solvent is very important, but thankfully it’s not expensive or difficult. There are so many excellent options on the market that it’s difficult to pick a bad gun solvent. However, that doesn’t mean that every gun solvent is always right for every situation. They all have their pros and cons, so be aware of what they are before you buy any. And you can never have too many options, which is why I have a handful of them in my kit right now.

Good workmanship is essential for firearms to function properly and remain in pristine condition, protected from the elements, corrosion and wear and tear from regular use.

Given the stringent requirements of the firearms industry, consistently high quality firearm finishing is critical to a successful project. With over 35 years of experience, Silvex provides advanced coating technologies to many of the industry’s leading gun manufacturers. All of our weapon designs meet military specifications.

Variety of gun coating options

As an industry leader, we specialize in a variety of firearm finishes including Black Oxide, Zinc and Manganese Phosphate, Hard Anodizing, Electroless Nickel and Teflon. Below we look at these three types of gun finishes, their characteristics and their associated benefits to help you choose the ideal treatment for your firearm. Learn more about the variety of weapon coating options and contact us with any questions.

Black Oxide (Bluing)

Black oxide finishing, also commonly referred to as bluing, is a traditional method of finishing steel that protects firearms from corrosion while reducing glare when properly pretreated. The black oxide finishing process oxidizes metal surfaces and is achieved through an electrochemical reaction that converts surface iron into magnetite.

The Black Oxide Finish is a high quality, corrosion resistant finish that will not chip, peel or alter the physical dimensions of any firearm piece. One of the most cost effective corrosion resistant coatings available, Black Oxide is often the preferred coating for gun barrels and small components. Gun oil is important for this type of finish to prevent rust. The processes used are either a hot or a cold process. Silvex offers the Hot Black Oxide process in accordance with Mil-DTL-13924.

Hard anodizing (hard coating)

Type III hard anodizing, commonly referred to as hard coating, is an electrochemical process in which an aluminum article is immersed in a chilled sulfuric acid bath resulting in a hardness of 330 to 450 Vickers. In contrast to black oxide, however, hard anodizing leads to a dimensional increase in the treated parts. In the hard anodizing process, the oxide layer on the surface of the base metal becomes 50% thicker and penetrates the base metal by 50%, so the tolerances must be adjusted accordingly.

In addition to hardness, other advantages of hard anodizing include abrasion and corrosion resistance. The natural color varies from light brown to dark gray depending on the aluminum alloy. Most firearm products are coated to a thickness of .001 +/- .0002 and dyed black and then sealed in either hot water or a Mil-A-8625 Type III nickel acetate solution.

Manganese phosphate (Parkerize)

Phosphate coatings, also commonly known as Parkerizing, are conversion coatings on steel that require immersing a firearm in a phosphoric acid solution. Phosphate parts are self-lubricating in that the porous nature of the phosphate coating allows oils to seep into the phosphate coating and interlock once it dries. Manganese phosphate coatings are a heavy crystalline surface as measured by coating weight, at least 16 grams per square meter.

Other benefits of manganese phosphate include its superior anti-corrosive properties compared to black oxide, as well as its anti-seizing and self-lubricating properties, providing ongoing protection to weapon parts that are prone to wear. Silvex offers manganese phosphate coatings in Mil-STD-171, Mil-DTL, and DOD-16232 specifications.

Silvex prides itself on providing the expertise and services that enable our customers to achieve their goals by utilizing our various types of fun finishes and gun coating options. With our experience and investment in the firearms industry, commitment to providing certified quality finishes, outstanding customer service and lead times, you have come to the right place at Silvex for all of your gun finishing needs. Do you have any questions about our surface treatment services? Contact us today!

Process that partially protects steel from rust

This article is about the historical use of black oxide. For modern uses of black oxide, see black oxide

Blackening is a passivation process in which steel is partially protected against rust by a black oxide layer. It is named for the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. Blueing involves an electrochemical conversion coating that results from an oxidizing chemical reaction with iron on the surface and selectively magnetite (Fe

3 O

4 ), the black iron oxide. In comparison, rust, the red iron oxide (Fe

2 O

3 ), undergoes an extremely large change in volume upon hydration; This causes the oxide to flake off easily, causing the typical reddish rusting of iron. Black oxide offers minimal protection against corrosion unless additionally treated with a water-displacing oil to reduce wetting and galvanic action. In colloquial usage, thin coatings of black oxide are often referred to as “gun blue”, while thicker coatings are referred to as “black oxide”. Both refer to the same chemical process to achieve true bluing.[1]

Overview [ edit ]

Various methods are used for the oxidation process.

“Cold” bluing is generally a selenium dioxide-based compound that turns steel black, or more commonly a very dark gray. It is a difficult product to apply evenly, offers minimal protection and is generally best used for small quick repairs and touch-ups.[2][3]

The “hot” process is an alkali salt solution using potassium nitrite or sodium nitrate and sodium hydroxide, called “traditional caustic black”, typically performed at an elevated temperature of 135 to 155 °C (275 to 311 °F). . This method was adopted by larger gun manufacturers for large-scale, more economical bluing. It offers good rust resistance which is enhanced with oil.

“Rust Blue” and “Smoke Blue” offer the best rust and corrosion resistance because the process continuously transforms any metal that can rust into magnetite (Fe

3 O

4). Treatment with an oiled coating enhances the protection offered by the bluing. This process is also the only process that is safely used to re-blue old shotguns. Many double-barreled shotguns are soldered (lead) or silver soldered, and many of the parts are also attached using this method. The higher temperatures of the other processes, as well as their corrosive nature, could weaken the solder joints and make the gun dangerous to use.[4]

Blueing can also be done in a furnace, for example for a sword or other item traditionally made by a blacksmith or specialists such as an armorer. Forged products to this day are occasionally found in blued steel by traditional artisans in cultures and walks of life that use this technology either out of necessity or willingly.[5]

Processes [ edit ]

Hot bluing[ edit ]

Bluing can be applied by immersing steel parts in a solution of potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide, and water heated to the boiling point of 135–154 °C (275–310 °F), depending on the recipe. Similarly, stainless steel parts can be immersed in a mixture of nitrates and chromates and similarly heated. Each of these two methods is referred to as “hot bluing.” Hot bluing is the current standard[6] in pistol bluing because both it and rust bluing offer the most lasting level of rust resistance and cosmetic protection of exposed gunmetal, and hot bluing takes less time than rust bluing.

Rust bluing [ edit ]

Acid solution applied to bare metal

Parts rusted after cooking

After eight rusting, carding and oiling sessions

Rust bluing was developed between hot and cold bluing processes and was originally used by gunsmiths in the 19th century to blue firearms before the development of hot bluing processes. The process consisted of coating the gun parts in an acidic solution, allowing the parts to rust evenly, and then immersing the parts in boiling water to transmute the red oxide Fe

2 O

3 to black oxide Fe

3 O

4, which forms a more protective, stable coating than the red oxide; The boiling water will also remove any remaining residue from the applied acid solution (often nitric acid and hydrochloric acid diluted in water). The loose oxide was then carded off (scrubbed off) with a carding brush – a wire brush with soft, thin (usually about 0.051 mm (0.051 mm) thick) wires – or a wheel.

This process was repeated until the desired depth of color was achieved or the metal simply stopped coloring. This is one of the reasons why rust and smoke bluing are generally more rust resistant than other methods. The parts are then oiled and left overnight. This process leaves a deep blue-black finish.

Modern, do-it-yourself versions of this process typically use a solution of hydrogen peroxide and salt, sometimes with vinegar, for the rusting step to avoid the need for more dangerous acids.[7]

smoke bluing[edit]

Smoke bluing is another process similar to rust bluing. Instead of applying the acid solution directly to the metal parts, the parts are placed in a sealed cabinet with a source of moisture, a container of nitric acid, and a container of muriatic acid. The cabinet is then sealed. The mixed fumes of the acids will produce an even rust on the surface of the parts (inside and outside) in about 12 hours. The parts are then boiled in distilled water, blown dry and then carded as in rust burnishing.

These processes were later abandoned by major gun manufacturers as it often took days and was very labor intensive to fully complete. They are still sometimes used by gunsmiths to provide an authentic finish to a historical weapon from the time when rust bluing was in fashion, analogous to the use of tanning on earlier representative replica firearms. Rust bluing is also used on shotgun barrels that are brazed to the rib between the barrels, as hot bluing solutions melt the solder during the bluing process.

Large scale industrial hot bluing is often performed using a bluing oven. This is an alternate method of creating the black oxide coating. Instead of using a chemically induced hot bath process (although at a lower temperature), it is possible to heat steel by controlling the temperature just enough to cause black oxide formation selectively over red oxide. It also needs to be oiled to ensure significant rust resistance.

Cold Blue[ edit ]

There are also cold bluing methods that do not require heat. Commercial products are often sold in small bottles for cold bluing firearms, and these products are primarily used by individual gun owners to make small touch-ups to a gun’s finish to prevent a minor scratch from becoming a major source of rust on a gun over time . Cold bluing is not particularly resistant to holster wear, nor does it offer a high level of rust resistance. It often provides a reasonable cosmetic touch-up to a gun’s finish when regularly applied and given additional oiling. However, small area rust bluing often blends, blends and wears better than any cold bluing process.

At least one of the cold bluing solutions contains selenium dioxide. These work by depositing a coating of copper selenide on the surface.

Niter Bluing [ edit ]

Niter and color case

Nitrate bluing involves immersing polished and cleaned steel parts in a bath of molten salts—typically potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate (sometimes containing 9.4 grams (0.33 ounces) of manganese dioxide per pound of total nitrate). The mixture is heated to 310 to 321°C (590 to 610°F) and the parts are suspended in this solution with a wire. The parts are constantly observed for color changes. The cross-section and size of the pieces affect the result of the finish and the time it takes to achieve it. This process must not be used on critically heat treated parts such as receivers, slides or springs. It is generally used for smaller parts such as pins, screws, visors, etc. Colors range from straw to gold, brown, purple, blue, teal to black. Examples of this finish are common on older pocket watches whose hands are what is known as “peacock blue,” a rich iridescent blue.

Color case hardening[ edit ]

Case hardening is the precursor to all metal colors typically used in the firearms industry. Contemporary tempering steels did not exist or were still in their infancy. Soft, low-carbon steel was used, but strong materials were needed for firearm receivers. Initially, case hardening was used, but this offered no aesthetics. Case hardening occurs when mild steels have been packed in a reasonably airtight crucible in a mixture of charred leather, bone char, and charcoal. This crucible was heated to 730°C (1,350°F) for up to 6 hours (the longer the heat was applied, the thicker the case hardening). At the end of this heating process, the crucible is removed from the furnace and placed over a water bath, with air being forced through a perforated coil in the bottom of the bath. The bottom of the jar opens, allowing the contents to drip into the rapidly bubbling water. The differential cooling reveals color patterns and hardens the part.

Different colors can be achieved by variations on this method, including quenching in oil instead of water.

tan [ edit ]

‘Browning’ is controlled red rust Fe

2 O

3 and is also known as “pluming” or “plum brown”. You can generally use the same solution for the brown as for the blue. The difference is immersion in boiling water to bluing. The rust then turns into black-blue Fe

3 O

4 . Many older tanning and bluing formulas rely on corrosive solutions (necessary to cause metal to rust) and often contain cyanide or mercury salt solutions that are particularly toxic to humans.

Applications[ edit ]

Blueing is most commonly used by gun manufacturers, gunsmiths, and gun owners to improve the cosmetic appearance of their firearms and give them a degree of corrosion resistance. It is also used by machinists to protect and embellish tools made for their own use. Blueing also helps preserve the metal finish by resisting superficial scratches and also helps reduce glare on the shooter’s eyes when looking down the gun’s barrel. All blued parts still need to be oiled to prevent rust. Bluing, which is a chemical conversion coating, is not as robust against wear and corrosion resistance as plated coatings and is typically no thicker than 2.5 microns (0.0001 inches). For this reason, it is considered not to add significant thickness to precisely machined weapon parts.

New guns are usually available in a blued finish, which is offered as the least expensive finish, and this finish is also the least effective rust resistance when compared to other finishes such as Parker plating or hard chrome plating or nitriding processes such as Tenifer.

Bluing is also used to color steel parts of fine clocks and other fine metalwork. This is often accomplished without chemicals, simply by heating the steel until a blue oxide film appears. The blue appearance of the oxide film is also used as a temperature indicator when tempering carbon steel after hardening to indicate a tempering condition suitable for springs.

Blueing is also used to season cast iron cookware to make it relatively rustproof and non-stick. In this case, instead of gun oil, cooking oil displaces water and prevents rust.

High-quality fencing blades are often offered with a blued finish. Thanks to this surface treatment, they can be stored in high humidity like sports bags without rusting.

Bluing is often a hobby endeavor, and there are many methods of bluing and ongoing debate about the relative effectiveness of each method.

In the past, razor blades were often made of blued steel. A non-linear resistance property of razor blade blue steel, anticipating the same property later discovered in semiconductor diode junctions, combined with the ready availability of blue steel razor blades led to the use of razor blades as detectors in crystal set AM radios, which POWs often used in World War II built.[8]

Aluminum [ edit ]

Black oxide only works on steel, cast iron or stainless steel parts to protect against corrosion because it converts iron into Fe 3 O 4; it doesn’t work on non-ferrous material. Aluminum (Al) and polymer parts cannot be blued and there is no protection against corrosion. However, the chemicals from the bluing process can cause uneven coloring on aluminum and polymer parts. Hot bluing should never be attempted on aluminum as it will react and usually dissolve in the caustic salt bath.

Friction, such as from wearing holsters, quickly removes cold bluing, and also removes hot bluing, rust, or smoke bluing over long periods of use. It is usually not advisable to use cold blue as a touch up when friction is present. If cold bluing is the only viable option, the area should be left oiled to extend the life of the coating as much as possible.

See also[edit]

Chemical metal coloring – process of changing the color of metal surfaces using various chemical solutions

Notes [edit]

References[ edit ]

Further reading[edit]

You probably loved the sleek metallic beauty and well-oiled performance of your gun when you first bought it. If you want to keep thinking this way about your gun, you need to take proper care of it. Otherwise, the weapon will develop rust. As well as ruining the aesthetics, rust increases the likelihood that a weapon will jam or even explode when fired.

What’s the best way to keep your gun looking and working like new? We recommend blueing and cleaning the weapon. If you’ve never heard of weapon bluing, you’re in luck, because in a moment we’re going to explain what it is and how to bluing a weapon to maintain its appearance and performance.

What is weapon blueing?

For centuries, gun manufacturers and owners have had firearms blued to improve their appearance and resist corrosion. Bluing involves treating a pistol with a solution that converts red iron oxide or rust (Fe2O3) to black iron oxide (Fe3O4). Blueing also creates a thin protective layer that protects weapons from harmful contaminants.

The process turns a gun barrel blue because black iron oxide is blue-black in color. In addition to the housing and barrel of your gun, you can color blue its components such as the bolt, magazine, frame and even small components. However, some experts advise against blueing pistol springs.

There are several methods of bluing gun parts, and the most popular are cold bluing and hot bluing. We will explain both methods later in this article.

What is Gun Blue made of?

The exact contents of a Gun Blue solution will depend on the product you purchase. For example, some cold blue solutions contain a selenium dioxide-based compound that gives your gun a blackish or dark gray tint. You can also find cold bluing solutions that contain hydrochloric and nitric acids.

Hot blue solutions may contain mercury bichloride and an alkaline salt mixture of sodium hydroxide and potassium nitrite or sodium nitrate. These compounds work together to eliminate red rust and reduce friction in firearms.

How long does Gun Blue last?

Blueing gun parts can preserve the look and performance of your gun. However, since bluing doesn’t last forever, you’ll occasionally need to re-blue your weapon. A quality bluing can last for decades, especially if the humidity in your area is low and you keep your gun dry and clean.

Does Gun Blueing prevent rust?

Bluing weapons is better at repairing rust than preventing it. For excellent rust protection, you should oil and clean your gun regularly.

Some experts recommend a light cleaning after you’ve fired your gun. You can do a more thorough cleaning once a year if you fire your gun infrequently, or twice a year if you fire your gun frequently. A thorough cleaning usually requires disassembling your gun to clean each component.

If you regularly take your gun to the shooting range, you should oil it at least every two weeks to prevent rusting. Gun owners who rarely fire their guns should oil their guns at least once a month. Regular oiling is especially important if you live in a humid area that encourages rust.

Hot Blue vs Cold Blue

The correct answer to how to turn a gun blue depends on who you ask. That’s because there are multiple weapon bluing techniques available, including rust and fire bluing. However, among all the techniques, hot burn and cold burn are the most popular because you can do them at home.

Both methods improve a gun’s aesthetics, corrosion resistance, and lifespan, but hot bluing provides longer-lasting results. Read on to learn more about the differences between cold and hot blueing.

Hot browning a weapon

Bluing weapons used to take days and required specialized equipment. Thanks to hot bluing, you can now give your gun a beautiful blue-black finish at home in just a few hours.

Hot bluing involves cleaning the parts of your gun before immersing them in a heated bluing solution. Then rinse off the bluing solution and clean the gun. Note, however, that hot bluing works best on steel and stainless steel pistols.

Cold-Bluing a Weapon

Unlike hot blueing, you don’t need to heat a solution to cold blue a gun. Cold bluing is not as durable as hot bluing, however, as it can be abraded by friction against fabric or other materials. It also doesn’t offer as much corrosion resistance as hot bluing.

Before you cold blue your weapon, you must clean, polish, degrease and dry it. Then apply the cold bluing solution to your weapon parts. After 12 hours you can scrub the rust off the gun and reapply your bluing solution. You will repeat the cleaning and bluing process every 12 hours until you have restored your weapon to your satisfaction.

Because cold bluing is not as durable as hot bluing, we do not recommend it for restoring your entire gun. Instead, hot blue your entire weapon and use cold blue to touch up scratches and small rust spots that may appear over time.

Get a silencer for your gun!

How to turn a weapon blue

Want to turn your gun blue? If so, below is a step-by-step guide on how to re-blue a pistol using the hot blueing method:

1. Polish your gun barrel

When you’re ready to re-blue your gun, the first thing to do is unload and disassemble it. Then polish the barrel and any other surfaces that show rust. You can also use this opportunity to scrub any scratches or pits from the gun body.

We recommend using either 0000 steel wool or 600 grit sandpaper for polishing. 0000 grade steel wire wool can polish metal and remove rust without marring or marking the surface.

2. Cut a good length of soft wire for your gun barrel

To dip your gun parts in a hot bluing solution, you’ll need some soft wire – about 20 inches long. You will tie one end of the wire to a gun part and hold the other end to dip the gun part into the bluing solution and hang.

3. Pass the wire through the barrel

Insert the soft wire into the gun barrel and bend the end into a hook as it comes out the other end of the barrel. This will prevent the barrel from slipping off the wire. You will need separate wires for the frame and the slide. You can place smaller gun parts in a stainless steel basket that you lower into the bluing solution. Just remember not to turn your weapon feathers blue.

4. Submerge the gun in the cleaning solution

Wear protective gloves and soak your gun parts in a cleaning solution for at least 15 minutes. Experts recommend using naphtha – a liquid hydrocarbon mixture. Alternatively you can use sodium triphosphate or a product like Ballistol, FrogLube or Hoppes Elite. Towards the end of your 15-minute bath, scrub the gun parts to remove any stubborn dirt, oil, or grease.

5. Flush gun with cold water

After soaking your gun parts in the cleaning solution, remove them and wash off the cleaning solution with a mild dish soap. Then rinse off the cleaning agent thoroughly with water. Cold water will take longer to remove all detergent residue, while hot water will get the job done faster and more thoroughly.

6. Heat the bluing liquid

Dry your rinsed gun components and set them aside. Pour your hot bluing solution into a saucepan or metal container large enough to hold your gun. Stir the contents of the pot until there are no undissolved clumps. Place the pot over the stove and cook until it reaches at least 275 degrees Fahrenheit or the temperature listed on the product instructions.

7. Submerge the gun parts in the solution

Hold each gun part by the attached soft wire and dip it into the bluing solution. If your pot isn’t big enough to hold all of the gun parts at once, we recommend submerging one gun part at a time to avoid overfilling the container. Also, you must fully submerge each component to ensure each part receives an even coating of the bluing solution.

Submerge your gun parts in a metal basket and stir the basket to give each component an even coating of bluing solution. Each component should remain in the hot bluing solution for 15 to 30 minutes. You can remove a weapon part from the bluing solution when you are happy with its new blue-black coating.

8. Rinse the gun again in cold water

Wash each gun part under cold water to remove excess bluing solution stuck to the body.

9. Submerge the gun in boiling water

Transfer the freshly rinsed parts to a pot of clean, boiling water. Soak each component in water for at least ten minutes to remove any bluing solution residue that could affect gun performance.

Decorated parts may need to soak in hot water for up to 30 minutes to allow the water to penetrate and clean the crevices. If your gun has soldered parts, you may need to stain those parts blue with a cotton swab and clean those parts separately.

10. Soak the gun in oil

Remove gun parts from hot water and wipe dry before submerging in water-displacing oil. Let the parts soak in the oil for about an hour, then wipe clean and assemble your gun. The oil boosts the corrosion resistance of the new blue-black finish and protects your gun from damage caused by sweat, body oils and other contaminants.

Blue Your Gun at home!

Note that blueing is not suitable for every weapon. For example, vintage guns that are hot or cold blued can negatively affect the value of the gun. Also, hot bluing can damage guns with silver-soldered components.

If you have a steel weapon, restore your weapon using the simple weapon bluing steps we provided above. It takes less time and money than paying a gunsmith to do it. Even better, you can use the same bluing technique to restore metal weapon accessories like your silencer.

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Can barrel corrosion and pitting make shooting a rifle unsafe? What precautions must be taken before we go to our favorite shooting range to shoot?

Every weapon needs proper maintenance. With every shot, residues remain in the barrel, chamber and slide. Over time, these residues can accumulate.

Dirt leads to rust. This corrosion damages and erodes the metal parts of the gun. Usually this starts in the barrel of the gun where debris is left around the chamber, ejector and firing mechanism. Untreated corrosion can render the weapon unsafe.

The four most common types of pollution are:

Carbon – a result of burned powder.

Copper – caused by copper-jacketed bullets leaving debris in the barrel of the weapon.

Lead – caused by lead bullets leaving residue in the barrel of the gun.

Plastic – caused by the plastic wads of shotgun shells.

All bullets or ammunition leave residues in the gun in combination with powder containing different levels of salt. This is the main cause of fouling.

If the firearm is not properly maintained, even with infrequent use, deposits can form in the barrel, especially just in front of the chamber. This actually reduces the size of the bore and can create pressure. In some cases, copper-plated bullets can be crushed by this fouling, making them easy to exit the bore undersized, and this is one of the reasons fouling causes accuracy to decrease as more shots are fired.

When firearms begin to rot, parts also rust and fuse together, causing feeding and firing failures. Weapons lose reliability as rust and fouling appear.

Here’s an old-fashioned and easy way to remove rust from your gun:

1. Apply a generous amount of oil to cover the entire surface of the gun, then use the steel wool to remove the rust edges from the metal.

2. You can stop occasionally to wipe off the oil and loose rust to keep it from spreading to the gun surface.

3. Once you have removed all rust from the surface, clean your gun and recoat with a protective oil to avoid exposing the bare metal to the elements.

4. Determine the need for rework or parts replacement.

Firearms are much safer, more accurate, and can last a lifetime if properly maintained. Proper maintenance includes proper cleaning and care of the working mechanisms and barrel.

It is therefore important that you clean your gun regularly. You should also clean your guns every time you go to a shooting range.

We never know how unsafe it can be to shoot an unreliable firearm, but one thing is certain, your life and safety are far more important than the risk of shooting an unreliable firearm.

How can a Cedar Mill Fine Firearms case help prevent moisture and rust when the gun is clean?

Keeping your firearms clean is not enough to prevent corrosion. Good and reliable storage should be ensured. Cedar Mill Fine Firearms Cases will securely protect your firearms and keep them pristine no matter the conditions outside. Durable and waterproof, our gun cases are fitted with an O-ring seal to keep dirt, dust and moisture out.

Relation:

https://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/happen-dont-clean-gun/

Clean, Lubricate, Protect

Below I will explain how WD-40 works in each of these roles.

cleanser

Since WD-40 is primarily a solvent, it makes sense that it would be ideal for cleaning guns. However, it is NOT advisable to clean your guns with WD40.

Solvents like WD40 will not remove dirt or slime.

Solvents dissolve goo, which then moves the dissolved goo to another area of ​​your gun that you can’t see.

Using an aerosol solvent simply “shoots” all the dirt into tiny crevices in your firearm, making them even more difficult to clean and can lead to “gum formation”.

lubricant

WD-40 is a solvent and NOT a lubricant. Because it evaporates so quickly, WD-40 doesn’t work well as a gun lubricant. Between spraying on the chamber or slide and loading your cartridges and starting to shoot, it would almost certainly evaporate leaving your gun bone dry.

MYTH: WD-40 is a lubricant.

FACT: “WD” stands for “Water Displacement” and is primarily a solvent.

Protection

As mentioned above, WD-40 evaporates so quickly that it won’t protect your gun for very long. Before storing your firearms in a gun safe for any length of time, consider using a real oil (oil does not evaporate and will protect your firearm from rusting).

WD-40 consists primarily of mineral spirits. Once these mineral spirits vaporize, your gun will be left with exposed metal and your gun will begin to rust.

WD40 & Exceptions

There are only two situations where WD-40 can/should be used:

Hambone said, Jack, that kind of information is enough for me. People who use things daily as part of their livelihood (unlike me, who pokes around my workshop on a Saturday) need to know. It’s true that both dilute the original blue if you overdo it. I think the Flitz can says “original blue will not be removed”; it will if you abuse it. Click to expand…

I’m not one to mess around with stuff, but I’ve never seen a reduction in the original blue with Flitz. I used it when someone would trade in a gun. I would wipe it off and often the blue in the cloth came off and I didn’t buy the gun or bought it cheaper. You’d be amazed how many guys would try to pull a quick one on me. I would ask them first if I could check and promise them that if I didn’t buy the gun I would restore the cold blue that peeled off. I broke a lot of hearts… A few years ago a mate bought an excellent Hsc… so he thought. I told him the grip strap was re-blued and he asked how I knew. I said I handled hundreds of guns every day…that’s what I used to do for a living years ago. I got the semichrome tube and saw the front strap go from 99% to 60%

Clean, Lubricate, Protect

Below I will explain how WD-40 works in each of these roles.

cleanser

Since WD-40 is primarily a solvent, it makes sense that it would be ideal for cleaning guns. However, it is NOT advisable to clean your guns with WD40.

Solvents like WD40 will not remove dirt or slime.

Solvents dissolve goo, which then moves the dissolved goo to another area of ​​your gun that you can’t see.

Using an aerosol solvent simply “shoots” all the dirt into tiny crevices in your firearm, making them even more difficult to clean and can lead to “gum formation”.

lubricant

WD-40 is a solvent and NOT a lubricant. Because it evaporates so quickly, WD-40 doesn’t work well as a gun lubricant. Between spraying on the chamber or slide and loading your cartridges and starting to shoot, it would almost certainly evaporate leaving your gun bone dry.

MYTH: WD-40 is a lubricant.

FACT: “WD” stands for “Water Displacement” and is primarily a solvent.

Protection

As mentioned above, WD-40 evaporates so quickly that it won’t protect your gun for very long. Before storing your firearms in a gun safe for any length of time, consider using a real oil (oil does not evaporate and will protect your firearm from rusting).

WD-40 consists primarily of mineral spirits. Once these mineral spirits vaporize, your gun will be left with exposed metal and your gun will begin to rust.

WD40 & Exceptions

There are only two situations where WD-40 can/should be used: