How To Drop A 4L60E Transmission? The 127 Detailed Answer

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You can expect an average gearbox weight of around 100 to 400 pounds (45 to 181 kg), or around 226 pounds (103 kg) for a standard size gearbox. In general, the lighter a transmission, the higher the performance, even if it depends on the vehicle.

Common uses to know transfer weight when you:

Move it with a truck. Raise it in a garage. Load it into a vehicle. Deliver it to a destination

Gears come in a number of different types and sizes, ranging from light to heavy based on performance and design.

7 examples of gear weights

The table below provides example transmission weights for specific models, ranging from light to heavy. Further details can be found on the manufacturers’ websites. Here is the transfer weight table:

Transmission Model Average Weight Ford Performance Super-Duty T-5 Transmission 5 Speed ​​90 lbs (41 kg) FTI TH400 Performance Manual Transmission 158 lbs (72 kg) FTI 700R4 Automatic Transmission Set 30-Spline 205 (93 kg) All-Trans Automatic Transmission A534004 107 kg (235 lbs) Eaton 4 Speed ​​EV Transmission 109 kg (240 lbs) All Trans Automatic Transmission A120004 132 kg (290 lbs) FORD Trans Automatic Transmission FC4Z7000V 165 kg (363 lbs)

Sources: Eaton, Jegs, Autozone

Weight automatic vs. manual transmission

When going through the manufacturer’s specifications, it is important to take a close look at the rating. This way you make a reasonable assessment based on what you need for your vehicle.

Automatic transmissions tend to be heavier than manual or manual transmissions.

Manual or stick-shift transmissions are typically lighter than automatic transmissions.

Why do gearboxes weigh so much?

The main reason a gearbox is so heavy is that it contains all the necessary gears for the engine to transfer power to the wheels. This is necessary to keep a gearbox operational in use. It helps maintain a transmission’s performance and a stable level of control in your vehicle.

Conclude

Transmissions are pretty heavy when it comes to car gear and parts. This is why it is so important to follow strict safety protocols for mechanics when replacing or installing parts.

It is important to know the right weight if you want to transport your gearbox. If you are unsure and want specific weights, you can always check the manufacturer’s website.

It is every car enthusiast’s dream to have a vehicle that is fast, uses fuel optimally and offers an acceptable level of performance. One way all of this can be made possible is through simple 4L60E power transmission upgrades.

Now, the automatic transmission has come a long way, as for nearly 40 years automakers have had their fair share of trouble trying to design the most fuel-efficient engine. Their attempts show in the use of a computer controlled carburetor and even electronic throttle fuel injection to slow down fuel consumption.

Apart from that, there are 4L60E mods that can turn your car into the dream vehicle you have in mind and that is why we have outlined some upgrades that you can definitely count on to build a high performance car with the toughest gearing.

History of the 4L60E Transmission

Prior to the advent of the 4L60E transmission, automakers faced a stumbling block when striving to match fuel economy in a vehicle.

General Motors, for example, developed the Turbo-Hydramatic 700R4 overdrive automatic transmission in 1982 as an upgrade to the TH350 three-speed automatic.

The 700R4 was quite unique compared to previous models designed by the company. This is because his shift modulation was accomplished using a device known as a throttle cable (TV).

While the TV cable was able to modulate shift programming based on throttle position and vehicle speed, it still wasn’t able to strike a perfect balance between fuel economy, drivability and longevity.

Another issue raised was irregularities in line pressure and timing when a car owner improperly adjusts the television cable. The latter could potentially result in the 700R4 gearbox being burned.

Years later, the 700R4 was appended to 4L60, with the “4” standing for “four-speed,” “L” for “longitudinal installation,” and “6” for “light-to-medium duty and 6,000-pound vehicle weight.” Even so, that upped the ante Shift programming problem that was evident on the 700R4 also reared its ugly head on the 4L60.

This led to the development of 4L60E, a computer controlled transmission still based on the 700R4. The new 4L60E features a powertrain control module (PCM) capable of controlling shifts based on feedback from the throttle position sensor (TPS), vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and other sensors.

Today you can find the 4L60E transmissions in GM vehicles such as:

Chevy Camaro

Chevrolet Silverado

Cadillac Escalade

Pontiac Trans Am

Now that’s out of the way, let us show you step by step the 4L60E gearbox rebuild.

4L60E mods for performance enthusiasts

There are several 4L60E mods that you can rely on as a performance enthusiast, but no matter how tempting it may be to do it yourself, you need to make sure you’re a transmission builder with plenty of experience.

If that’s not feasible, then better let a mechanic do the job for you. Accordingly, some power upgrades for greater torque capacity are highlighted below for you to try.

Remember that the goal is to increase the torque capacity to 400-500 hp. Now let’s dive in:

Lay out the important parts on an assembly bench.

As a general rule, always lay out the high-performance parts on an assembly bench to make sure you don’t miss the parts that desperately need improvement. You can then proceed to thoroughly clean, inspect and paint the gear core. Rebuild with an improved, thicker sun shell.

4L60E does have one weakness and that is the factory sun reaction cup where it cracks around the hub and therefore will not stand the test of time. On the other hand, 4L60E designs running with a thicker sun shell, which is stronger, can prevent failure. Use front/rear five-pinion planetary gears.

An OEM five-sprocket front/rear planetary gear helps increase torque capacity and distribute torque over a larger mechanical surface area. It also allows your 4L60E transmission to handle 400-500 horsepower, which is a 20 percent increase in torque capacity. There’s also the order of 6,500 to 7,000 pounds gross weight that your machine can achieve. Use the five pinion front planetary gear plus a ring gear instead of the original four pinion front/rear planetary gear for this purpose. Use a larger clutch with an input drum reinforcement sleeve.

In this case, you can try a larger 3-4 clutch overrunning piston while using a reinforcement sleeve. The result is increased stability and hydraulic holding power. Remember that stability and smoothness are also determined by less friction and therefore the teflon impregnated stator support bushing must be taken into account. Stamped steel forward clutch with piston.

You have the option of using pistons made from steel or cast for a forward clutch. When both are compared, one with stamped steel is the better option as it is less prone to failure during use. Therefore, this should be what you want to achieve when building your 4L60E gearbox. Use more clutches and larger ring gear servo pistons.

Use larger gear band servo pistons for approximately 18 percent greater band apply capacity. There is also a need to use seven clutches (3-4 clutches/drum) including the Raybestos forward, reverse input clutches and freewheel. A Raybestos ZPak 3-4 clutch pack, for example, has materials that reduce friction and as such help dissipate heat. 4L60E Trio series input shafts.

Another simple 4L60E mod is to use a 4L60E series trio input shaft to improve the toughness of the transmission. These input shafts include the stock 4L60E input shaft, a heavy-duty 4L60E input shaft (4L75E) and a hardened 4L60E input shaft. Use a high-volume, 13-element pump.

You can also upgrade your 4L60E to a high-volume 13-element (vane) pump that handles pressure and volume. Examine the soft and hard parts of the transmission.

Depending on the case, the soft and hard parts of the transmission must also be checked and retrofitted. In the case of the soft parts, these include couplings, seals and bushings. Use an anti-chatter spring.

You may have a five pinion rear planetary gear and high performance Raybestos clutches installed on the 4L60E build, but you can take it a step further. But this time it’s with the use of an anti-chatter spring. Replace clutch drums.

Another necessary step for your need for more power is to rebuild the clutch drums for better band engagement. Load the reverse clutch drum with Raybestos high performance clutch frictions.

To avoid clutch slippage and excessive heat that could destroy the automatic transmission, you can load the clutch drum for reverse with high-performance Raybestos clutch friction. Raybestos high performance frictions are known to provide a firmer grip with no slippage. Nonetheless, it is still normal for some level of clutch slippage to occur, but if it is excessive it needs to be checked to avoid reducing transmission life. Because the clutch slip itself is the biggest heat generator. Use Teflon sealing rings.

Instead of relying on the usual iron sealing rings, which do not last long, you can use Teflon sealing rings. However, Teflon O-rings are more difficult to install, although they are tougher and won’t break like iron. Load the reverse input drum onto the input drum.

Proceed to load the reverse input drum onto the input drum, which is already equipped with a hardened input shaft. Install Raybestos Pro Series tape.

As one of the last approaches for the 4L60E modification, install the Raybestos Pro series tape and bind it to the servo. You also need to make sure it has been set correctly. Install the front pump with 13 elements and high capacity.

Immediately before installing the torque converter, install the heavy-duty 13-element front pump. Installing the torque converter requires finding the stall RPM and the start of the engine curve to get the best performance.

The reward that continues to pay off

The 4L60E mods we have detailed above can ensure that whether you are a builder or a car fanatic with some level of experience, you can increase your car’s horsepower and torque capacity.

The result can be very rewarding, starting from a higher level of performance and a reduction in fuel consumption. If you want a faster ride, these 4L60E transmission mods will certainly do the trick.

General Motors’ 4L60E transmission first appeared in 1992, where it served as a replacement or upgrade for the 700R4 transmission. Although both transmissions were fairly similar, it was the first time GM had switched from a hydraulically controlled transmission to an electronically controlled one. The transmission was used in a large number of vehicles, including GM vans, SUVs, trucks, as well as many rear-wheel drive cars. Some of the most popular cars that used the transmission are Chevrolet Corvette, Camaro, Impala and more.

As with any other transmission, the 4L60E may experience problems and may require an upgrade. Get automatic transmission conversion kits for better performance. Here are 3 symptoms of a failed 4L60E transmission and how to diagnose the problems:

No third gear – you start the vehicle, start the transmission and shift into second gear. Everything works fine up to third gear. When you shift your vehicle into third gear, the engine runs away as if it were idling. The problem? 3-4 clutch pack defective! Take off the bell, pull out the pan, take out the filter and solenoids, pull out the pump and drone, disconnect the drone and what you will see is a burned 3/4 clutch pack. But what causes it? The 3/4 piston rubber seals shrink with heat and aging. Hydraulic pressure blows around it and frys the clutch pack. What you need is a new piston and clutch pack.

You get the vehicle moving, start the transmission and shift into second gear. Everything works fine up to third gear. When you shift your vehicle into third gear, the engine runs away as if it were idling. The problem? 3-4 clutch pack defective! Take off the bell, pull out the pan, take out the filter and solenoids, pull out the pump and drone, disconnect the drone and what you will see is a burned 3/4 clutch pack. But what causes it? The 3/4 piston rubber seals shrink with heat and aging. Hydraulic pressure blows around it and frys the clutch pack. What you need is a new piston and clutch pack. No Second Gear/Reverse – The second most common symptom of a failed 4L60E transmission is your inability to shift into second gear and reverse. The reason? A broken drive case! Open the shell. After removing the drums, remove the snap ring, pull out the planetary gear set, remove the input ring gear and inspect the drive shell. Although the shell is supposed to be in one piece, not only can it break off, it can also tear out the wedges.

The second most common symptom of a failed 4L60E transmission is your inability to shift into second gear and reverse. The reason? A broken drive case! Open the shell. After removing the drums, remove the snap ring, pull out the planetary gear set, remove the input ring gear and inspect the drive shell. Although the shell is supposed to be in one piece, not only can it break off, it can also tear out the wedges. Hard Second Gear – The third most common symptom of a failed 4L60E transmission is difficulty shifting into second gear. The second is so harsh it almost feels like a shifter has been installed. A diagnostic scan will appear showing the internal slippage of code 1870. The reason? A worn out TCC control valve! The “Check Engine” light may illuminate. The problem is in the valve body. Pull out the pan and filter, remove the solenoids and wire harness, remove the valve body screw, lift the valve body and turn it over. This is where the TCC control valve is located. It wears out and causes the converter clutch to slip.

repair options

Get a replacement oversized valve and reamer.

Use the spring that comes with quality automatic transmission conversion kits. Simply remove the clip-in plug and valve assembly and replace the spring, valve plug and clip. This essentially fixes the problem. The spring prevents the valve from moving and stops the leakage.

Are you looking for powerful automatic transmissions for your vehicle? Gearstar is the right place! Find the right gearbox for your model and get the most out of your car.

motor vehicle

The 4L60E (and the similar 4L65E) is a range of automatic transmissions from General Motors. Designed for longitudinal engine configurations, the series includes 4 forward gears and 1 reverse gear. The 4L60E is the electronically controlled evolution of the Turbo-Hydramatic 700R4 originally produced in 1982.

The 4L60E and 4L65E are built at Toledo Transmission in Toledo, Ohio and were also built at Romulus Transmission in Romulus, Michigan and Ramos Arizpe, Mexico.

The two transmissions are indistinguishable from the outside. The 4L65E has the same external parts but stronger internals such as 5 pinion planets compared to 4 in the 4L60E. 4L60E uses a 6.5″ 6-bolt bass bell for non-Gen 3 LS applications and a 7″ 7-bolt bass bell for LS applications. The 4L65E/70E uses a 7″ deep bell and 7 studs.

They also have different input shafts and torque converters. 4L60E uses a 298mm input shaft for non-LS and a 300mm input shaft for LS applications. 4L65E/4L70E uses a 300mm input shaft and converter designed for LS applications only.

gear ratio:

1 2 3 4R 3.059 1.625 1.000 0.696 2.29

The TH700R4 was renamed “4L60” (RPO MD8) in accordance with General Motors’ new naming convention when the 4L60E (RPO M30) electronic version was introduced while the 4L60 was being phased out. This happened in 1993 for trucks, vans and SUVs and in 1994 for rear-wheel drive passenger cars. A bolt-on bell housing (along with a six-bolt rear housing) was gradually introduced in 1996 for S-10 trucks and S-10 Blazers and from 1998 onwards for all other applications. Also introduced from 1998 was a new 300mm torque converter with improved higher capacity internals, a 300mm input shaft and a 300mm pump on models mated to a Gen III small block. The 4L60E is rated for up to 360 ft⋅lb (490 N⋅m) of torque. It weighs 133 pounds without gear oil.[1]

The 4L60E family of transmissions uses 2 shift solenoids, originally designated as Shift Solenoid A and Shift Solenoid B, which were later changed to comply with OBD II (On Board Diagnostics Revision 2) regulations to 1-2 Shift Solenoid and 2-3 Shift Solenoid . By activating and deactivating the solenoids in a predetermined pattern by the PCM, 4 different gear ratios can be achieved. The last 4L60E didn’t see use in GM vans until 2013, before being replaced by the 6L80E. The shift solenoid pattern, sometimes referred to as the solenoid firing order, is as follows;

shift magnet pattern

1-2 Solenoid 2-3 Solenoid 1st Gear On On 2nd Gear Off On 3rd Gear Off Off 4th Gear On Off

Applications[ edit ]

4L65E [ edit ]

An updated 4L60E, the 4L65E (RPO M32), was progressively coupled behind the 6.0 Vortec in the 2001 model year. Front and rear five pinion planetary gears plus an additional 3/4 clutch allowing 7 clutches in the input housing and an induction hardened input shaft assembly have been upgraded to withstand up to 380 ft⋅lb (520 N⋅m) of torque.

Applications:

See also[edit]

There’s a lot of talk these days about making horsepower. Sure, this is the golden age of horsepower, but all that power is of little use if the transmission isn’t delivering the power to the tires. Today’s new cars have between six, eight and now ten speed(!) automatic transmissions. We chose the best compromise between old and new for our bland road car, which is to build an electronically controlled 4L60E four-speed automatic overdrive.

We did some research and found that there are at least four different versions of the original 700-R4 that have evolved into the 4L60E/4L65E/4L70E. For this story we will focus on the 4L60E electronic version. While it’s more expensive to retrofit in an older car, the electronic versions are much easier to tune than fiddling with TV cables and mechanical controls. We found a used 4L60E from a 1999 Chevy-powered small-block van for $200 and decided on a budget upgrade to handle about 500 horsepower.

This decision was shaped by the knowledge that there are many performance enhancing parts available from both Sonnax and TCI Automotive. Here, in Part 1, we will go through the build with professional assembly by RaceTrans owner Jimmy Galante who has over 20 years experience with high performance street and drag race automatics and the 4L60E in particular. In Part 2 we will detail how to adapt this transmission to a 1964 El Camino and control it with a TCI EZ-TCU controller.

This story is not a gradual reconstruction. Honestly, remodeling just one of these transmissions goes beyond the backyard builder. Instead, we’re going to share some key blueprint points that Galante has learned through its years building the 700-R4/4L60E transmission family.

When Galante disassembled our Craigslist escapee, we found that the front pump was badly scratched and the bearing that sits on the back of the stator shaft and on top of the input drum was coming apart, causing excessive endplay. The 3-4 clutches were toasted and a broken 3-2 return spring in the valve body was among the other ailments. On the plus side, the main wiring connector was not damaged and any plastic locking tabs on the main internal wiring harness were not snapped off from excessive heat exposure, saving us the expense of a new wiring harness.

Galante says budget remanufacturers only replace the pump when it goes bad. However, an underperforming pump can cause low line pressure, which is the cause of several problems since the automatics rely on hydraulic pressure to actuate clutches and servos. After a full disassembly and clean, Galante first checked the clearances of our rebuilt front pump – even a slight change from .001 to .002 inches of internal clearance is unacceptable. He also added Sonnax’s increased pressure regulator spring and boost valve, which are part of the Performance Pack for the 4L60E.

Sonnax offers an input housing reinforcement kit that prevents the housing from cracking where the input shaft is pressed in. There are several potential problem areas associated with the clutches. A major problem is excessive flexing of the backing plate when applying the couplers.

If you’re looking to spend another $500, Sonnax offers the Ultimate 3-4 smart-tech housing paired with a more powerful input shaft. This drum increases case depth with a .165 inch larger capacity to accommodate more clutches without sacrificing steel strength. To eliminate deflection, the 3-4 case uses a 15-bolt snap ring cap that is far stronger than the stock snap ring. We decided to stay within our budget and opted for the Sonnax Input Reinforcement Kit instead, which is an improvement over stock.

Galante says his experience with the 4L60E has taught him that tight 3-4 clutch pack play results in excessive drag when the clutches are not engaged in first and second gear. The drum will spin in the first two gears, but insufficient free play can cause the clutches to glaze and fail prematurely. He dry adjusts his 3-4 clutch free play to .060 inches with Sonnax return springs to ensure the clutches are fully released. You will read posts on forums that insist these feathers should not be used. This advice is uninformed at best. Galante says 0.045 inches is too tight even with the springs. Another key upgrade is the addition of the Sonnax pump, rear stator support and wider sun gear bushings, all of which help increase stability.

Many performance kits from Sonnax, TCI Automotive, and others include a wider, reverse-entry drum tape that must be used with a new drum. With this wider band over a used drum, the band spans the worn portion of the drum. Imagine the tape is like a bridge across a wide “gorge” which is the worn part created by the narrow point of contact of the original tape on the original drum. This “groove” leaves only a small portion of the belt in contact with the drum, leading to rapid failure. The solution is to always use a new reverse input drum. We used a new GM part included in the parts list.

Other major upgrades include Sonnax second and fourth gear servos. These servos increase the piston actuation area, which both reduces band slip on upshifts while increasing holding pressure. The Sonnax Corvette-style servo increases servo application range by 35 percent over the stock V-8 version.

We also chose a Sonnax SmartShell reaction shell, which offers significant durability improvements over the failure-prone original part. Sonnax includes a thrust bearing replacing the OE bushing along with a custom roller clutch ring. Galante then pre-built the entire gearbox to review the entire endgame. He says adding new drums requires that endgame be checked – a step budget rebuilders often overlook. He prefers .020 inches for overall endplay measured at the input shaft.

For the valve body, Sonnax offers a simple 2-3 shift valve modification that Galante says offers a significant improvement in durability. For performance-oriented driving with the Sonnax modification, the one-way clutch engages in first three gears when the shifter is placed in “D3” (instead of overdrive), improving durability by not abusing the input clamp lever. In the OE configuration, the overrunning clutch is only applied when the shift lever is in “D3” after the transmission has upshifted to third gear.

With the transmission assembled, Galante bolted it onto his test bench along with the TCI Breakaway 12-inch lock-up converter and TCI EZ-TCU electronic controller. We set up the configuration file in just a few minutes and with 12 liters of Lucas Sure-Shift ATF the gearbox worked perfectly. We made some minor changes to when the torque converter clutch (TCC) locks up and also switched to an upshift command at 5,600 rpm WOT.

There’s another Sonnax upgrade that we haven’t used that you should know about. If the 4L60E has a big sore point, it has to be its OE gear ratio of 3.06:1 in first gear. The problem arises when combined with a low (4.10:1 and numerically higher) rear gear ratio that produces an extreme first gear overall ratio. In this example, the overall first gear ratio is 3.06 x 4.10 = 12.56:1. This equates to a TH400 transmission with a 5.05:1 rear gearing (2.48 x 5.05 = 12.54:1). The solution comes from a larger Sonnax 2.84:1, six-sprocket carrier. This reduces the overall first gear ratio, although the speed drop between first and second is equal due to the new second gear ratio of 1.55:1. The benefit is evident because this larger second gear reduces the speed drop between second and third gears. This ratio mod is not cheap as it has a price close to $700.

After the break-in test, Galante was impressed with the line pressure ranging from 250-275psi at WOT, so everything is clearly working fine. Now that we know our transmission, all we have to do is bolt it into our El Camino and enjoy the experience of electronically controlled overdrive. Next time we’ll call you, which was necessary.

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01. The 700-R4/4L60E has taken a lot of abuse in trans circles but through the intelligent use of the right performance parts combined with a professional blueprint/assembly the 4L60E has all the makings of a solid road overdrive automatic.

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02. We started off by speaking to Sonnax’s Gregg Nader, who recommended a stack of Sonnax upgrade parts including a heavy-duty input shaft, seven clutches, input drum reinforcement kit (piston and seal kit) and a new GM reverse gear set – Input drum to accept a wider Sonnax 2-4 tape and a TCI Automotive conversion kit (not shown).

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03. With the gearbox disassembled and cleaned Galante began some of the minor work including dismantling the rebuilt pump for proper machining. Close spacing helps create the high pressures required for a power application.

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04. A weak point of the 4L60E is a defective sun gear housing. Sonnax reworked this into the heavy-duty SmartShell reaction housing kit, which is stamped from thicker stock with heat-treated shell splines, a larger bearing and a reinforced hub area with a welded collar.

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05. Sonnax supplied a wider band which increases holding power but needs to be used with a new reverse entry drum. A new drum is required to ensure proper contact with the wider belt.

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06. When using a stock 3-4 drum, Sonnax prefer to use the stock 4L65/70 number of seven clutches. Galante says his experience dictates the use of the Sonnax return springs, but with a total clutch stack play of .060 inches. The play can be adjusted with snap rings of different thicknesses.

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07. This is where Galante installs the Sonnax return springs, which help create play when the clutches are not engaged in first and second gear. The springs keep the clutches separated when the clutch is released and prevent dragging.

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08. Hydraulic pressure is critical to any powerful automatic. Sonnax supplies a stronger compression regulator spring (left) in the Performance Pack, and we’ve also added the Sonnax Boost Valve kit (right). The Sonnax boost valve uses O-rings to better seal the valve to the body, ensuring stable pressure under load.

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09. We also used larger Sonnax servo kits for second and fourth gear. The second gear set shown here (left) has 18 percent more range (the area around the raised center) than the OE Corvette servo to produce a more positive 1-2 and 2-3 shift.

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10. For several new parts, Galante always checks the end play of the inlet housing to the rear of the pump during pre-assembly. There is a matching shim for this game and initially he measured .050 but tightened this down to the more preferred .020 inch.

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11. Final assembly does not take nearly as long as all pre-assembly checks. Galante has a three-page checklist that he follows at all times that helps him keep track of what has been accomplished. We counted and his 4L60E checklist has 92 separate steps!

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12. With the Trans assembled, Galante built his own dyno, powered by a small-block Chevy and using a narrowed 9-inch with Wilwood disc brakes to create the load. The dashboard contains both the full trans line pressure and the radiator line pressure. This transmission idles at 210 psi line pressure. We were surprised to see up to 160psi of pressure in the radiator lines in overdrive. That is why high-quality hoses and fittings are necessary.

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13. In order to test the Trans, we also had to connect and configure the TCI EZ-TCU controller. Here you can see the transmission is in overdrive with the torque converter locked at 96 mph at 2,700 rpm. The PM marker is not displayed, which means that the transmission is in Economy mode and not in Performance (PM) mode.

There comes a time when revving that little block to 3,500 rpm in an attempt to avoid getting run over on the freeway gets tiring. This quickly leads to thinking about upgrading to an overdrive automatic. There are many good reasons to choose either the 700R4 or the 4L60E. Both offer the benefits of overdrive, and choosing between the two is a choice of electronics or no electronics. We will make no excuses, convenience comes at a price. As Mark Twain once wrote, “You pay your money and make your choice.”

The good news is that you win either way. Elsewhere in this story we’ve listed the ratios of both the TH350 and 700R4/4L60E. While the first gear ratio of 3.06:1 appears to be an advantage over the TH350’s 2.52:1, the downside of the lower first gear is the sharp RPM drop in 1-2 and 2-3 gear changes, the 700R4 / 4L60 forces on you. At part load this is only a minor problem as converter slip absorbs most of the difference.

The obvious benefit to overdrive is the 30 percent reduction in cruising rpm. None of this is breaking news, and both transmissions offer the same benefits. Now let’s explore what makes them different by examining the 700R4 first. The benefits start with something everyone cares about—price. If you’re looking for a used transmission to rebuild, only the non-overdrive versions are cheaper. The big advantage of this “analogue” overdrive over its digital counterpart is that you don’t need a separate controller to operate it. This immediately puts the 700R4 ahead of the price war by $600 to $1,200.

Next, the 700R4 is easier to install, requiring nothing more than hooking up the TV cable, shortening the drive shaft, relocating the cross member and adding a 12 volt source to the gearbox. You have the luxury of choosing a lock-up converter and kits are available to lock the converter when the transmission shifts into overdrive. However, this requires the use of a special brake light switch. These are cheap and easy to wire into the gearbox. This switch cuts power to the transmission when you step on the brake pedal, which unlocks the converter.

Another small benefit for the 700R4 is that it offers an old-school speedometer cable, so upgrading an older chassis is easy. The gearbox fits most early gearbox tunnels fairly snugly, although minor modifications to the floor pan may be required.

This takes care of the benefits. Now let’s move on to the dark side of this gear. The biggest downside, and the element most often blamed for the 700R4 being disabled on the side of the road, is the dreaded TV cable. The 700R4 uses a cable that connects the throttle linkage to the transmission throttle (TV) in the valve body.

The TV cable essentially replaced the vacuum modulating valve, which was the load sensing device for the transmission. The cable moves the throttle plate in the valve body and increases the transfer line pressure as the throttle plate opens. This seems like a simple process, and with off-the-shelf components this is rarely a problem. But with aftermarket carburetors, EFI throttle bodies, and various linkage mounts, the opportunity for failure is rampant.

There is a ton of material that has been written about setting up television cable and when you get it right the system works great. However, the difficulty lies in setting up the connection settings to accomplish this task. It’s not easy, and if even slightly misadjusted, the price is generally a wasted set of 3-4 clutches – an expensive repair. The internet is full of sad tales of burned 700R4 transmissions whose only fault was a poorly adjusted TV cable.

If you are running a later model engine such as an LS with stock EFI, there is no factory provision for a TV cable as these engines were fitted with the later 4L60E version electronic gearbox. It is possible to adapt a TV cable to an LS2, for example, and this has been done successfully. But that’s yet another reason why getting the 700R4 properly tuned is more of a challenge.

Another minor annoyance is that the WOT upshift is mostly determined by the governor, which is driven by the transmission’s output shaft. Most rebuilt 700R4s use very heavy weights and light springs on the governor, which signal the transmission to shift up at very low engine speeds. Of course, you can manually shift the transmission at any rpm you want, but if you want to customize the automatic WOT upshifts, the only way to do it is by modifying the governor.

Several companies like B&M and TCI offer kits for this, but it’s a trial and error approach and requires removing the pressed-in regulator cover each time to access the regulator. Expect to spend half a day or more on this process.

There are a few other aspects that come with moving to a 700R4, but these are the main ones to consider. The biggest advantage of the analog 700R4 is certainly its affordability. But as we’ll see when we drill down into the details of the 4L60E electronic transmission family, these newer, digitally controlled versions offer some real rewards.

700R4: The good and the bad 700R4 PROS Less expensive than 4L60E – no expensive controller needed

Easier installation with minimal wiring

Popular upgrade support

Fits most early chassis

The gearbox has a wired tach output – no adapters required. 700R4 DISADVANTAGES Limited torque capacity on early transmissions

The TV cable is difficult to adjust for proper pressure and upshifts

A gauge must be used to set the TV cable for proper upshifting at half throttle

Often requires a custom TV cable bracket and connection to carburetor or EFI

Custom WOT shift points require controller changes

Restricted to lockup only in overdrive (4th gear)

gear) Requires a special brake light switch to cut power to unlock the converter when the brake is applied

May require an additional low vacuum switch to break the converter lockup under heavy part throttle loads – and may then toggle back and forth – requiring an additional delay relay

When shifting to the 4L60E side, the main advantage of this transmission is that the electronics eliminate the need for a TV cable and that whirling dervish of weights and springs to set up shift control. In the case of a retrofit 4L60E, a swapper will require the service of a separate transmission controller. This is both the main advantage and disadvantage of electronic transmission. Separate controls obviously add significantly to the overall transmission cost.

If your next project involves the use of EFI, consider the latest electronics that now combine GM transmission controls with EFI. For example, several companies now offer the 4L60E and 4L80E controller as part of their EFI systems. Holley’s Dominator EFI offers this, as does Big Stuff3. Most recently, Holley introduced the Terminator LS EFI system, which is retrofittable to multipoint LS and optionally controls a 4L60E transmission. This eliminates the cost of purchasing a standalone controller. FiTech also offers a similar control option.

There are clear benefits to investing in the 4L60E. Most importantly, the controllers make it very easy to set precise shift points for each upshift. It also allows switching strength to be adjusted, all within the control of either a simple handheld device or in some cases sophisticated software that can be adjusted via a laptop. An example would be the ability to set precise WOT shift points with a few button presses, rather than struggling with a recalcitrant controller for six to eight hours.

A requirement for the 4L60E is that it requests input from a throttle position sensor (TPS). If your engine is equipped with any type of modern EFI, TPS is already part of the regime. However, if the engine is carburetor equipped, this will require the fitting of a TPS. Luckily, HGM Automotive makes a snazzy TPS adapter that bolts directly onto a Holley, Edelbrock, or Q-Jet carburetor. Other companies like Holley and Innovate also make TPS mounts, but we really like the HGM unit called the Accu-Link. This is another expense to factor into the cost of a 4L60E.

Combining the factory speedometer in your early muscle car with a 4L60E also requires additional assistance. The 4L60E only produces an electronic vehicle speed output (vehicle speed sensor – VSS) but there are several ways to get this to work. The easiest way is to use an electronic speedometer that uses either GPS as input to convert the VSS transmit signal to the speedometer.

If the car’s existing cable driven speedometer works fine, Speedhut makes a very nice electric motor that uses either the VSS transmit signal or a GPS antenna to spin the motor that drives the speedometer cable. We installed one of these boxes in our ’64 El Camino with a 4L60E and it has been working fine for over a year. Again, these are additional costs that should be considered before committing to a 4L60E.

4L60E: The Good and the Bad 4L60E PROS Full and limited electronic control over all aspects of shift control, including WOT

Easily change part throttle switch points and line pressure

Easy setup for desired lockup – can snap into third form

Can set switching points from the inside – no need to crawl underneath

Can buy EFI packages with transmission control as part of EFI – saves money

Increased torque capacity on the 4L65-70-75 versions

LS engines can use the LS 4L60E – no adapters required

Speedometer calibration is easy 4L60E CONS Most expensive – needs to add a separate controller – can cost up to $1,200

Requires a TPS inlet – must be added with carburetor

Requires an adapter to run either an electric speedometer or a motor to rotate the cable speedometer

Radiator lines use snap clip connectors which often leak – should be replaced with a more traditional connector – AN or reverse flare

It’s difficult to offer a cost difference between a typical 700R4 and 4L60E overdrive transmission because there are so many variables that directly affect the endgame. The controllers alone vary from $650 to over $1,400. For example, we evaluated comparable 700R4 and 4L60E transmissions from Hughes Performance, and the price difference for the transmission alone was just $100 ($1,834 vs. $1,934 via Summit Racing). Based on that, the 4L60E could cost an additional $1,000 to $1,200 more depending on component selection.

Hopefully this little dissertation has highlighted some useful options and ideas that you may not have considered. The rest is up to you.

A comparison of the 4L60E vs. 4L80E power gearbox shows that there are clear differences between the two units. Although they may have similarities, such as For example, designed by General Motors Company and equipped with a 4-speed automatic overdrive, these transmissions have unique features that set them apart from others.

The 4L60E was also seen in rear-wheel drive cars designed around 1993, while the 4L80E was popular on diesel and big-block cars. The 4L80E is also the more powerful transmission of the duo. Now let us show you the power transmission differences between 4L60E and 4L80E.

Differences between the 4L60E and 4L80E performance gearbox

The power transmission differences between 4L60E and 4L80E are remarkable in terms of origin, appearance, size and weight, performance, gear ratios, price, etc. However, it may be worth noting that the 4 in both names represents four gears, while the L stands for longitudinal.

And the 80 in the 4L80E says the unit can support 8000 pounds of GVWR, while the 60 in the 4L60E means the transmission can handle 6000 pounds of GVW. In addition, the E in both names stands for an electronically controlled transmission. Now here is a breakdown of the differences between both units:

origin

4L60E and 4L80E have similar model numbers. However, these gears differ in the way they were made. The 4L80E is an electronic overdrive successor to the Turbo 400 and the latter is a transmission that was used for drag racing and hot rodding applications.

On the other hand, the 4L60E is an electronic transmission that is a successor to the 700R4. And the 700R4 was the standard transmission used in Chevrolet and GMC cars from 1982 onwards.

Looks

The 4L80E can be distinguished from the 4L60E by the transmission oil pan. This is because the 4L80E has an oval pan while the 4L60E has a rectangular pan.

Another difference between the two devices is the number of bolts used to attach the gearbox to the engine. Here the 4L80E has more screws due to its larger size. Specifically, the 4L80E has a 17-bolt gasket, while the 4L60E has a 16-bolt pan.

height and weight

Another notable difference between both units is their size and weight. The 4L80E is larger and heavier than the 4L60E. Its beefier build can be coupled with its 236 lbs and 26.4″ length. Alternatively, the 4L60E weighs 150 lbs (without liquid) and is 23.5″ in length.

A comparison of size and weight shows that the 4L80E is significantly larger and heavier. On the other hand, the amount of fluid these units support depends on the torque converter used with the transmission.

perfomance

It goes without saying that the 4L80E is more powerful than the 4L60E. For this purpose, cars with powerful engines are often paired with this gearbox. These are vehicles used in demanding applications such as towing or racing.

And when the 4L60E gearbox is used in these engines, the powerful motor can only wear out the gearbox. However, there are cases where a stock 4L60E gearbox can assist the engine.

Price

Because the 4L80E is the more powerful of the duo and can support more demanding applications, it’s more expensive than the 4L60E. The more expensive price may be related to its larger size and its use in higher horsepower engines.

And if you’re looking for a tough transmission that can support heavy trucks and high-speed vehicles, then the 4L80E is a better choice. Choosing the 4L60E for a high power engine could lead to its breakage.

Another factor that drives the 4L80E’s more expensive price tag is that it’s not as common as the 4L60E. You’ll also find that parts and whole transmissions are easier to find on the 4L60E compared to the 4L80E. Whatever the case, parts for your 4L60E can be obtained online or from a junkyard.

gear ratio

There is a big difference in the gear ratios of the 4L80E and 4L60E gearbox. The gear ratios for the 4L80E are:

1: 2.482 2: 1.482 3: 1.00 4: 0.750 R: 2.077

The gear ratios for the 4L60E are:

1:3.059 2:1.625 3:1.00 4:0.696 R:2.294

Knowing these ratios will let you know if swapping one of these gears for the other is ideal. You have to consider your first gear ratio and could support the gear ratio with a rear axle differential.

Maximum Torque

How long each transfer takes also makes a difference between each. Their durability in terms of performance can be tied to their size given the large internal components in the gearbox.

That being said, the maximum torque that can be handled by the 4L80E and 4L60E is 450Nm and 350Nm respectively. However, these torque values ​​are not fixed and may vary slightly. In addition, new transmissions tend to last longer than transmissions that are around 30 years old.

Wiring harness, controller and sensors

The electronics of the 4L80E and 4L60E also show a big difference. In this case, there is a discrepancy between the transmission wiring harness and the transmission control module. These components are incompatible when interchanged in the other transmission.

Another difference is in the sensors as there are two speed sensors on the 4L80E which are different from the speed sensor on the 4L60E. It is useful to buy a wiring harness and control unit when swapping one gearbox into the other.

The final result

The power transmission differences between 4L60E and 4L80E are numerous. And these differences show that the 4L80E is the better gearbox of the duo. However, it will cost you more to get this unit compared to the 4L60E and the latter is also easier to find.

Ultimately, you will have to settle for the 4L80E if your car is used in demanding applications that can tend to wear out the gearbox. And if you tour regularly, the 4L60E is a good option, as you’re using a stock gearbox that can handle its engine power.

I’m building a ’49 Chevy panel truck using mostly junkyard parts. What do I need to do to use a 700 R4 transmission with a 350 carbureted engine? The gearbox is new enough that it has a lot of wires. I put an older one on my ’47 Ford for a mechanical speedo, believing it to be a Turbo 350 (not electric at all). It works well. This time I will use an electronic speedometer. You have to differentiate between the 700-R4 transmission (which can be set up to run without a computer) and its eventual descendant, the 4L60E family (which is an all-electronic, fully computer-controlled transmission).

The ’82’93 700-R4 (later models may be referred to as the “4L60” without the “E”) has a square, four- or five-pin main electrical connector and large governor cover – all on the left-hand side (driver’s side of the case. At Provision is usually made on the left side of the extension housing for the connection of a conventional speedometer cable, but on some models a Vehicle Speed ​​Sensor (VSS) replaces the conventional speedometer drive and driven gear with an additional two wire connector. Cables) are located on the rear right side of the case. Most 700-R4 experts recommend avoiding problematic ’82’86 models. By 1987 most problems were resolved, and – particularly on units from high performance cars like the IROC Z, Trans Am or Corvette – now in good condition the 700-R4 makes a pretty strong performance tr ans in serial form.

Introduced in 1993 in 1993 trucks and 1994 in rear-wheel drive passenger cars, the 4L60E (and its later, more powerful descendants, the 4L65E and 4L70E) are all-electronic, computer-controlled transmissions. Although superficially resembling the 700-R4 at first glance, the upgraded “E” versions have a large, round, 11- to 14-pin electrical connector located on the back right-hand side of the gearbox. There is no TV cable, no mechanical speedometer drive or governor provisions. The VSS connector now moves to the right side of the expansion housing. Most ’96-later versions have a separate bolt-on pump housing and a six-bolt extension housing (instead of the previous four bolts).

In order to run a 700-R4 transmission without a computer behind a carburetor engine, at least the TV cable must be connected to the carburetor and properly adjusted. The TV cable isn’t just a simple kickdown cable like your analog TH350, it controls line pressure and shift points. If the adjustment is not done properly, the transmission will eventually burn due to insufficient line pressure. “Proper adjustment” means that the cable itself requires proper preload adjustment, the cable pull must have the correct tension, and the way the cable attaches to the carburetor throttle linkage must have the correct geometry. Over the years, various aftermarket companies have offered aftermarket brackets and other solutions to alleviate the pain of putting a 700 behind an older carburetor.

For example, instead of a junkyard or generic-universal TV cable that may not have the right pull angle or voltage for your application, TCI offers what they call an EZ-Shift cable. The kits are suitable for 200-4R, 700-R4 and 4L60 (not E) transmissions and come with a cable and mounting bracket that work together to achieve the desired straight pull, similar to a typical throttle cable. The cord’s simple adjuster has a push button instead of the adjustment tab found on the traditional TV cord. To set it up, push the button, have a partner accelerate from the cab, then release the button. Game set victory.

Order the EZ-Shift cable by part number to get the correct cable and mounting bracket for these popular performance carburetors:

Carburettor part no. Edelbrock 370810 Holley 370811 Demon* 370812 *Original design, not the new ThermoQuad clones. show everything

Better yet, couple the EZ-Shift cable to TCI’s Failsafe Constant Pressure Valve Body (see photo). The correct valve body varies by trans model and year of manufacture:

Trans and model year part no. ’81’90 200-4R 386020 ’82’87 700-R4 376021* ’88’92 700-R4 376020 *’87 models with auxiliary valve body: use PN 376020. show all

The 700-R4’s four or five pin electrical connector is primarily responsible for bypassing the TCC (torque converter clutch). Running “no electrics at all” (as you say was the case with your previous swap) means – you guessed it – the TCC will never crash. While not a major durability flaw, it does prevent the 700-R4 from reaching its ultimate efficiency and fuel economy potential. On standard installations the wires went to the computer to control the TCC lock/unlock, but on a retrofit 700-R4 the lock can be achieved by wiring analog pressure and/or vacuum switches. There are various home-made methods to achieve this, but due to detailed differences over the years, such schemes may not be applicable to every model. The easiest way these days is to simply purchase an aftermarket TCC wiring kit, especially as they are now available from a number of sources. TCI’s version (PN 376600) works universally on all 700-R4/4L60 (non-E) transmissions by rewiring the solenoid in the transmission. Externally it only requires a 12 volt source and an engine vacuum reference.

However, if your gearbox is actually a 4L60E then running it from a computer is mandatory. With “E” transmissions, the computer controls everything: TCC lock-up, gear changes, shift quality and firmness, and line pressure. There are no external adjustments and no non-computer workarounds. Forget the TCC lock; Without a computer, the transmission does not shift at all. But you don’t need an original factory engine management unit (ECU) to get the transmission going (pun intended); easy-to-use standalone Transmission Control Units (TCUs) are available from several aftermarket sources. The TCI solution is the EZ-TCU transmission controller that is fully configured and ready to use. However, the end user can reprogram as desired to change transmission shift points, shift firmness and shift speed – all without diving internally into the transmission.

The EZ-TCU still needs to acquire a signal from a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) that relays the amount of throttle opening to the TCU. Think of it as a kind of electronic version of a mechanical TV cable. The good news is that you no longer have to adjust a pesky TV cable. The bad news is that some kind of bracket is needed to attach the switch to the carburetor throttle linkage. Previously this required custom manufacturing, but now TCI offers a remote TPS mounting solution (PN 37401 for carburetor applications). It has a cable so you can mount the switch on the firewall or any other convenient location. There is no need to clog the carburetor throttle linkage yourself.

As for interfacing one of these transmissions to an aftermarket electric speedometer, the process may vary depending on the transmission and VSS and the characteristics of the particular aftermarket unit. Contact your speedometer manufacturer for the recommended solution. If it doesn’t offer the right adapter interface, check out Dakota Digital, which offers several different solutions for universal signal correction (as well as its own full line of high-tech instruments).

GM’s 4l60e transmission seems to be mistreated by performance enthusiasts most of the time. These units are pretty solid for a stock vehicle, as we’ve seen them go 250,000 to 300,000 miles with no issues. However, once you start adding power, the 4L60’s days are numbered. And while some of us have lived our lives one 4L60e at a time, at some point in life you will come to a crossroads: should you build another 4L60e from a world-class manufacturer, or should you go down a different path?

A few months ago we had just completed a turbo install on our 2000 Project Silverado and were preparing to tune it up. The transmission, a ‘built’ 4l60e with Circle D Specialties torque converter, had never given us any problems in the past. And while we never expected the modern four-speed to live forever, we expected it to last longer than it did. After a handful of low-boost (12 pounds) puffs, the gearbox decided it had had enough. Overdrive was acting a bit strange, and as we headed toward the house, things only got worse for the Silverado. By the time we made it home we were down to three gears; first, second and vice versa. Well, I don’t know if you’ve blown up as many 4L60s as we have, but there comes a point where that four-speed transmission isn’t an option anymore.

The dilemma

A four-speed transmission is great if you use it for your daily commute or long trips. The high fourth gear and lock-up converter improve fuel economy while lowering engine speed. And while we knew we wouldn’t put a 4L60e back in the truck, we considered a 4L80e. After looking at the prices for a built unit that can handle 1,000+ horsepower, trans brakes and a manual valve body, we quickly reconsidered. We’ve had offers ranging from $5,000 to $9,000 depending on the provider and different options. That got us thinking, do we need a fourth gear and a lock-up converter? Since our truck only has limited road traffic and is rarely on the freeway, a three-speed makes much more sense. It’s a third the cost of a 1,000hp 4L80e and will be a lot cheaper to overhaul if we ever need to.

TH400 by TCI

We reached out to Jeff Reed, TCI’s Production Manager, about what we needed for our combination. Reed said: “The biggest advantage of a TH400 or a 4L80e over a 4L60E is that they are more robust units. The 4L80e shares many of the same high-performance factory components as the TH400, but if the 80e has a weak link, it’s fourth gear. Otherwise it’s a solid piece – but the TH400 is stronger overall.” Since we’re looking for the most reliable transmission for the heavy Silverado, we were already convinced at this point in our conversation. But we still had some questions about this transfer.

upgrades

We know the factory TH400 transmissions straight from General Motors were tough, but we wanted to know what TCI would change for our combination.

“Many internal parts in the TH400 are very heavy duty from the factory and those that aren’t are replaced with aftermarket parts. For this build we replaced the factory second gear sprag with a 34 element cam sprag. The input shaft will also be updated with a Vasco 300 material shaft, and the forward clutch hub will be aftermarket billet steel. We will also be using the Red Eagle style clutches, Kolene steels and a Kevlar rear band.

The factory case

There is no doubt that an aftermarket case will perform better than the OEM cases with better manufacturing processes. You’ll be surprised how much the factory cast can take though, because we certainly were.

“Although the stock case is not as rugged as an aftermarket case, we have built stock case units for applications over 2,500 horsepower and weighing over 3,000 pounds,” explained Reed. Since we shot up to 1,000 hp with our combination, the standard housing is more than sufficient for our needs.

Fluids, cooling and shrinking

Before we let Reed go, we had a few more questions, e.g. B. what is the best type of liquid and what is the break-in process like? Reed said, “More and more people are choosing synthetic type fluids, which is great because we sell that too. But we sell more of our racing and street RTF than anything else. It won’t start cracking until it’s between 230 and 250 degrees.”

Obviously you want to keep transmission temperatures as low as possible, so a large transmission cooler is an excellent idea, and Reed agrees. “When it comes to cooling the liquid, the bigger, the cooler, the better. If there is room to place something like our 10 x 15.5 inch cooler in front of the radiator, we would recommend that for this application.” As we work with a truck, space for a large transcooler is not an issue, and we plan to install one before booting the silverado back up.

Our last question for Reed was about breaking in and maintaining the TH400. We all know how often to change the oil in an engine, but we have a feeling that transmissions are usually neglected. And since we want our new transmission to have a long, happy life, we plan to do everything right. We recommend doing a filter and fluid change after the first 500 miles. After that, it depends on how heavily the gear is used and what it is used for. For road applications we recommend 12,000 mile fluid changes, but in race conditions it would need to be sooner.

On road

After asking all sorts of questions, we ordered a TCI TH400 with transbrake, a TCI Outlaw X shifter and a 4L80e SFI flexplate. Unfortunately the torque converter would have to wait as we are building a new engine for the truck and do not yet have to select a camshaft for the new power plate.

From 4L60e to TH400

Our new TH400 arrived on a pallet with the parts attached within a few weeks. It was time to mock up the gearbox so we could measure for our new driveshaft. However, we were still missing a crucial piece of the puzzle: a transmission cross member. Since the TH400 is shorter than the 4L60e, the cross member would need to bridge the gap.

A quick search on Facebook led us to Tyler Scruggs, owner of DTR Fab LLC, who builds exactly what we needed: a TH400 crossmember for our 2000 Silverado. Before ordering one you need to know which factory style cross member you have as GM produced two different types. The cost of the new cross member was $165 for the 2WD transmission. We also ordered a tubular cross member that bolts under the oil pan. It’s unrelated to the transmission installation, but we thought it was cool and adds some clearance under the oil pan.

The differences

As you can imagine, the 4L60e and TH400 have their differences. You’d expect the modern four-speed to be taller and heavier than the TH400, but we were surprised at how similar these two units are. The 4L60e weighs 133 pounds without gear oil, and the TH400 tips the scales at 134 pounds. A 4L80e weighs a whopping 178 pounds. The 4l60e, which measures 30.75 inches, is slightly longer at 28.25 inches than the short-tail TH400. As you’d expect, the 4L80e is the longer of the three transmissions at 32.187 inches long.

Much to our surprise, the most significant difference between the TH400 and the 4l60E transmission is the first gear ratio – the 4L60E has a 3.06 first gear, 1.62 second, 1.00 third and 0 overdrive, 70 The TH400 and 4L80E both come with 2.48 in first gear, 1.48 in second and 1.00 in third gear. Of course, the 4L80E has overdrive, which can be a huge advantage over a three-speed gearbox when needed.

4L60e distance

In the next step, the damaged 4L60e was removed and replaced with our TCI three-speed. It is advisable to drain all transmission oil at this point before removing the driveshaft. Next you will need to remove the transmission dipstick, transcooler lines and starter motor before loosening the torque converter. We then used a transmission jack and lowered the rear of the transmission to allow easy access to the bell housing bolts. After all the screws were removed, we carefully pushed the 4L60e back, dropping the jack.

Turbo 400 time

You’d think that bolting a transmission introduced in the 1960’s into a 2000 model truck would be complicated, but it’s not…as long as you have the right flexplate and adapter. The TH400 and other non-electronic GM transmissions screw right in. The only difference is that a bell housing screw hole is not used as the hole on the back of the LS motor is missing. And since we didn’t have to fiddle with the torque converter, the TH400 was effortless to use.

After the bell housing bolts were in place we then jacked the transmission into place before installing our new DTR Fab TH400 cross member. We can now measure a drive shaft for connection to our Moser Fab-9 rear axle.

There’s more to come

While the new TCI gearbox is in place, we still have work to do. We need to order a new dipstick, transmission cooler, torque converter, cables in the transbrake and fit the Outlaw X shifter. We’ll be documenting our progress as the Silverado continues to evolve, so be sure and check back next month for more updates on this build.

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The Novak guide to the

GM 4L60-E (Late Style) automatic transmission

For a video version of this article, click here

The 4L60-E is a four-speed longitudinal overdrive automatic shifting transmission. It is now widely regarded as the finest rendition of the finest overdrive automatic transmission ever produced.

story

Before the late 4L60-E transmission, there was the Turbo 700R4, introduced in 1982. The 4L60-E is GM’s successful continuation of the ever-improving 700R4 – also known as the “4L60” since 1990. The 4L60-E is the “E” Electronically Shift Controlled version of the 4L60.

The easiest way to identify and distinguish the late 4L60-E is by its removable bell housing. It was released in 1996 behind the 4.3-liter V6 engine. It was released more broadly against the V8 engines in 1997 and was gradually fully implemented at GM by 1998 in both passenger car platforms with RWD and trucks in 2WD and 4WD configurations.

Mechanically, the transmission’s power transmission core remained similar to its predecessors, but the valve body and actuation system for the clutches, bands, etc. are controlled by electronic actuators and solenoids. A vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is used as the primary feedback sensor, feeding the PCM or ECM (vehicle powertrain computer) with the data to make shift decisions. The technique of this system is not seen as a complication, but as an elegant simplification and further development of this gearbox.

The 4L60-E derives its name from its specifications: 4 speeds, longitudinally positioned, 6000 lbs. GVW, electronically controlled, although the transmission sees factory service in trucks up to 8600 lbs.

The strength of the 4L60-E proves to be considerable. Now a darling of the transmission build aftermarket, the 4L60-E can transfer impressive power from both truck and performance car applications.

ID

The 4L60E – Image courtesy of The 4L60E – Image courtesy of GM Powertrain

The late 4L60-E transmission has a three-piece cast aluminum alloy case; Bell housing, main housing and tail housing. GM shortened the package to 21.9 inches in length – that corresponds to a manual transmission of 15.4 inches.

The input shaft has 30 splines. The transmission usually has flare and O-ring fittings pinned on the passenger side for a cooling loop. The transmission has a square oil pan.

The main difference between the Later 4L60-E (1996-2010) and the Early 4L60-E (1992-1997), 4L60 (1990-1992) or 700R4 (1982-1989) is the six-bolt rear exit or tailhousing/adapter pattern. Previous versions featured a four-bolt square bolt pattern on the adapter or tail housing. In addition, the detachable bellhousing is another distinguishing feature.

Two-wheel drive versions have tail housings and typically longer output shafts than four-wheel drive versions, which have different adapter assemblies and a shorter output shaft.

The transmission weighs 146 pounds dry and 162 wet. It requires 8.4 quarts (9.64 in. torque converter) or 11.4 quarts (11.81 in. torque converter) of Dexron III or Dexron VI fluid, which the factory says is a lifetime fill. Deep pan versions require up to 14 liters. The length and volume of the refrigeration circuit varies and requires an additional amount.

The 4L60-E can be found in almost every GM rear wheel drive application including C/K Truck, Sonoma, Jimmy, Tahoe, Yukon, Astro, Safari, Suburban, Bravada, Firebird, Camaro and Corvette.

New versions are increasing

4L60E = M30

4L65E = M32

4L70E = M70 In fact, the “E” has now been removed, ostensibly due to the fact that all GM automatics are now electronically controlled and the distinction no longer makes sense. GM’s alternative designations for these transmissions are: In fact, the “E” has now been removed, ostensibly due to the fact that all GM automatics are now electronically controlled and the distinction no longer makes sense.

The 4L70-E gearbox is yet another improvement and shares most of the components. However, these versions have reinforced and upgraded components for the significant power delivery of GM’s impressive line of Gen III+ engines. The 4L60E was produced concurrently alongside its reinforced ancestor; the 4L65-E and the 4L70-E. They share most of the components and improvements. The 4L65-E was introduced in 2001 as the HD version of the 4L60-E. It has a stronger planetary gear and a strength-enhanced output shaft.

Interesting new features on all versions of this four-speed automatic include an input shaft speed sensor for more advanced transmission and engine control by the ECM. This sensor is located in the front pump assembly. It was fully implemented in all versions until 2008. Individuals who swap out these parts over the years should be aware of the compatibility issues this can pose.

Adaptability of the transfer case

Matching most Jeep transfer cases is an excellent prospect.

This transmission makes an excellent conversion transmission due to its adaptability to most jeeps. Both 2WD and 4WD versions of the 4L60-E can be used equally well and there are no inherent advantages to either once you have our adapter assembly installed.

The HydraMatic is adaptable to popular Jeep (and some IH) transfer cases, including the:

Essentially all GM factory 4WD applications available with an OEM configured 4L60-E have adapters and transfer cases that are prohibitively long for a Jeep, and transfer cases the size, strength and ratio for most Jeep applications are not desirable. Mating with the Chevy NP231 (231C) transfer case, these transmissions use an adapter with a different bolt pattern and number of splines than the Jeep NP231 (231J).

Engine compatibility and adaptability

The front end of the 4L60-E is natively compatible with Chevrolet’s 90-degree small block and big block pattern engines (pictured left), including the V6, V8 and I6.

Since the transmission is electronically controlled by the PCM and the necessary wiring, it’s usually easiest to hook up the 4L60-E to the engine it came with from the factory. Earlier engines can be connected to the 4L60-E with a GM controller, #12497316. Carbureted engines require a throttle position sensor. Individuals converting to earlier engines or engines not controlled by a GM PCM should consider the TH700R-4 as a simpler and more cost-conscious alternative.

Bellhousing versions

The modular design of the 4L60E made it ideal to work modularly with different bellhousing designs. Those listed below were primarily intended for the North American market.

1996-1997 bell housing

1998 Bellhousing with additional bottom cover holes

1998 Bellhousing for 300mm converters and 5/8″ lower. 1998+ Firebird and 1999+ C/K trucks. These versions required new turbine and stator shafts.

S/T Trucks, 60 degree case carrier

4L60E parts

Novak stock a full line of parts for the 4L60E transmission, including OEM quality and upgrade components for people working on their transmissions. If you are interested, we look forward to hearing from you.

summary

A major part of the transmission is the Powertrain Control Module. GM has hit another hit with this intelligent setup that puts the engine and transmission under the same management. There are standalone transmission controllers available in the aftermarket, but it is usually better to run the OBDII / Generation III engine and transmission as a matched pair. A major part of the transmission is the Powertrain Control Module. GM has hit another hit with this intelligent setup that puts the engine and transmission under the same management. There are standalone transmission controllers available in the aftermarket, but it is usually better to run the OBDII / Generation III engine and transmission as a matched pair.

GM’s commitment to the 4L60-E is evident in its strength, quality and versatility. It is undoubtedly one of the most respectable transmissions of our time and a very compelling Jeep conversion transmission. The 4L60-E is a very attractive replacement option for all Jeeps except for the CJ5 and other short wheel Jeeps – due to drive train length and driveshaft angle issues. The adaptability to almost all other jeeps is exceptional.

About the 4L60E

Please enjoy our video version of this article.

Never underestimate the importance of your transmission. It is required to keep your car moving. It transmits the power of your engine to your wheels. But your transmission is much more complicated than that. So are the problems that can develop from it. Therefore, regular transmission service is extremely important to keep you moving.

So how do you know when your automatic transmission is about to fail or has already burned out? These six signs of a bad transfer will help you determine if your transfer is toasty.

Strange noises

If you hear clanking, grinding, or howling noises every time you shift gears, see an auto repair mechanic immediately. These are all signs that your transfer is in progress. This problem can be caused by a number of issues ranging from insufficient transmission fluid to damaged or worn gears. Identifying the type of noise and at what point in the shifting process it occurs will help your mechanic figure out the problem.

Strange smells

It’s time to start thinking about your next fluid change as soon as you smell a faint, burning odor. Transmission oil usually smells sweet or tart. Transmission oil keeps all transmission parts lubricated. It also prevents it from burning itself. If your transmission oil is burned, your transmission could be on fire too. If that’s the case, you might need a complete transmission rebuild.

shifting problems

Shifting difficulties or a gear slip are clear signs of transmission problems. In a manual transmission, this is usually caused by a worn clutch. In vehicles with automatic transmissions, low fluid levels, worn gears, broken transmission belts, or problems with the magnet or torque converter can all cause this.

slip

Slip is when your vehicle behaves as if it were on ice or snow, but you are on dry roads. You hit the car and you’re going nowhere. Your engine revs up but your car doesn’t respond. Slip affects your transmission’s ability to propel the car forward. Ignoring this problem will result in your car not moving at all.

overheating

Around 90% of all automatic transmission failures are caused by overheating. When driving, the metal parts of your transmission are in constant contact with each other. This causes friction, which translates to excessive heat if there isn’t enough fluid to lubricate. When the component overheats, it creates an unmistakable burnt smell and can lead to a burned transmission if you don’t top up the fluid immediately.

Extreme heat from inside your car

It is possible for your gearbox to overheat inside your car. If you have a rear-wheel drive car, you can feel the heat seeping through the floor of the car into the passenger compartment. This is because the transmission transfers power and heat down the length of the vehicle to transfer power to the rear wheels. When the transmission overheats in front wheel drive vehicles, you will likely feel this heat between the driver and passenger seats in the shift housing.

If you have any transmission problem, you should have your car serviced immediately. A minor transmission problem could later develop into a major glitch. Also, transmission repairs can vary drastically in price depending on the severity of the problem.

It’s better to have your transmission checked than to leave it on the side of the road. Express Transmissions’ experienced technicians can diagnose the cause of your problem and recommend the best solution to get you back on the road. Make an appointment today and entrust us with one of the most important components of your vehicle.

Transmission replacement

HOW LONG DOES THE GEAR CHANGE TAKE?

REPLACEMENT COSTS OF TRANSFERS

Contact My Transmission Experts for a free transmission replacement quote.

USED ​​VERSUS REMANUFACTURED VERSUS REMANUFACTURED GEARBOXES

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FACTORY RECONDITIONED & REBUILT TRANSMISSIONS

WHICH TYPE OF REPLACEMENT TRANSMISSION IS BEST FOR MY VEHICLE?

SHOULD I REPLACE MY TRANSMISSION WITH A NEW TRANSMISSION?

CONSIDERATIONS

THE RESULT

CONTACT US TODAY ABOUT REPLACING YOUR TRANSMISSION

When a transmission fails, an automotive technician will determine if they can inexpensively repair the transmission or if it should be replaced. Minor repairs involve external parts that are easily repaired, replacing only those parts needed to make the transmission operational. An experienced mechanic can help recommend a transmission replacement if that’s the best option. Catastrophic transmission failures cannot be repaired. When this happens to your car, truck, SUV, van or utility vehicle, the only option under the circumstances is to replace the transmission with a new, used or rebuilt one. When a gearbox has traveled many kilometers, other parts can wear out and fail in a short time. Gear repair shop technicians often recommend replacing gears with high mileage to avoid ongoing repairs. The time required to replace a transmission often depends on the type of transmission and the vehicle. It usually only takes a day or two to replace a transmission in most rear wheel vehicles. However, some newer front wheel drive models can be quite labor intensive and take three to four days to complete. The time it takes to obtain all the parts and tools needed for the replacement should also be factored into the time it takes to replace the gearbox. The cost of replacing a gearbox depends on the type of gearbox and whether it is replacing a used rebuilt or remanufactured unit. A used transmission typically costs between $200 and $600, but prices can vary widely. Factors such as availability, age, make and model of vehicle the transmission was in and warranty terms can all have a significant impact on the price. A remanufactured or rebuilt transmission can cost anywhere from $1,000 to $6,000. The prices depend on whether it is manual or automatic, the warranty and the type of vehicle. The average cost of replacing a transmission by vehicle type is: • $2,324 for passenger cars with a price range of $1,200 to $4,179 • $2,792 for pickup trucks with a price range of $1,600 to $4,500 • $3,090 for SUVs and minivans with a price range from $1,700 to $6,000 A used transmission can be obtained from the junkyard. The advantage of buying a used gearbox is that it is much cheaper. The downside is that you don’t know how well the transmission has been maintained or if there are any problems. However, almost all junkyards offer an exchange for defective parts. Most offer warranties ranging from 30 days to 3 years depending on the policy. Installing a certified remanufactured transmission with a warranty is a great option if you are on a budget. The terms refurbished and refurbished are often used interchangeably; however, they are not the same. A remanufactured transmission is also known as a remanufactured and usually involves the replacement of worn and defective parts. The gearbox is disassembled and all parts are cleaned. Solenoids are tested and either cleaned or replaced. Other replacement parts are usually purchased in a kit. A transmission overhaul kit usually includes bands, gaskets, clutches, gaskets, o-rings, modulators, filters, bushings, valve bodies and washers. However, there are different types of kits and the type and quality of parts included may vary. A rebuilt transmission often retains many marginal parts. The warranty period can vary from 30 days to one year. A remanufactured transmission typically costs more than a remanufactured transmission, but has a longer lifespan. In addition to cleaning and replacing parts, the remanufacturing process involves reworking marginal parts or replacing them entirely. Another benefit of using a remanufactured gearbox is that design changes and updates that can improve quality and durability are implemented during the remanufacturing process. Once the gearbox has been fully rebuilt, it is tested on a dyno to ensure it is working properly. This eliminates the possibility of replacing a defective gearbox with another defective gearbox. Remanufactured transmissions typically come with a two to three year or 100,000 mile warranty. Replacing a gearbox can be a costly affair. When it’s time to replace the transmission, should you buy a brand new, remanufactured, or remanufactured transmission? Knowing the difference between a new, remanufactured, and remanufactured transmission should give you a better understanding of which option is right for you. That depends on the age of your vehicle and the type of warranty you get when you buy a new one. A remanufactured transmission may be the best option. Buying a new transmission gives your vehicle a part that should last longer than a rebuilt or remanufactured one. This includes a better or longer guarantee on the quality of the part. Replacing a continuously variable transmission is usually the only option when it fails, as repairing a CVT is nearly impossible. The compromise is the price. You pay more for a new part. But you should be aware that many “new” gearboxes come from the manufacturer as a new construction. Very few automakers offer a truly new transmission. So if you are requesting a new part as a replacement, you should ask if it is a new transmission (with all the relevant updates for your vehicle) or a rebuilt one. A remanufactured transmission consists of new and older parts that can be made at a factory or auto repair shop. The remanufactured gearbox can consist of the old housing for your existing gearbox and a replacement of the worn, damaged or no longer working properly components. Its design and construction is based on the original manufacturing requirements for the part. It can be assembled from rebuilt, reused, repaired, or any combination of the three parts. Remanufactured units are built based on the original specifications for your vehicle. As a result, it can cost more than a rebuilt one as it doesn’t have to be to original specifications and can be modified. This is important to understand as changes to the original specifications could void your warranty. The new gearbox is factory new and should ideally be of the same type as the original. However, if the model is faulty, defective, or problematic, it would make more sense for your mechanic to fit a different, but compatible, new gearbox. This depends on various factors such as the age of your vehicle, your budget and whether a rebuilt or remanufactured one will serve your needs just as much as a new one. A new gearbox would be better for a newer model, while older vehicles (or a fixer-upper) would do just fine with a rebuilt or remanufactured one. You should expect the same performance from any transmission type you choose, but getting a second opinion can help ensure you’re selecting the right one for your driving style and needs. Your transmission is an important part of your car. If cost is not your main consideration, you should choose a new transmission for your car. If cost is a factor in your decision, choosing between a factory remanufactured or remanufactured part can be an acceptable alternative to a new transmission. Speak to a qualified mechanic or auto detailer to thoroughly review your options and make an informed decision. We have friendly, knowledgeable staff at each location who can find you the perfect transmission for your vehicle and budget. Fix Transmission Leak https://www.mytransmissionexperts.com/diagnostic-transmission-error-codes-what-do-they-mean/ https://www.mytransmissionexperts.com/how-much-does-transmission-repair-cost/

Where can you buy a used gearbox?

Consumer Warning: Many of the used “low mileage” transmissions and engines for sale online have fake mileage. Parts brokers today use the same mileage on an engine or transmission that they advertised and sold to someone else months ago. Brokers don’t stock these engines or transmissions: online brokers will wait for you to order something they’ve advertised, then find one at a junkyard, and then ship you whatever they can find at that time.

To avoid fraud:

Avoid online brokers.

Always buy local.

Buy used transmissions only through a local auto repair shop or local authorized scrapyard.

Example of what brokers make of this rating

Another example from this review

Best option for buying a used transmission: Buy through a local auto repair shop

If you go to your local repair shop, they can order a used transmission from a junkyard (either local or out of state, subject to availability).

Pro Tip: If you are having your used transmission installed at a local shop, this option is the most recommended way to buy a used transmission.

The main benefit here is that if the one they bought fails you usually have some sort of warranty on both the parts and the labor by the repair shop.

Second best option for buying used transmissions for sale: Buy direct from a local or state-approved scrapyard

If you are installing a used transmission yourself, the most common search engine used by garages and insurance companies to find a licensed, legitimate junkyard transmission is www.car-part.com, which affiliates with almost every licensed junkyard in the US .

Only licensed junkyards can list used gearboxes on car-part.com, so you can be sure the companies listed are genuine junkyards. The use of this service is free of charge for you; Junkyards pay a fee to list their inventory on this website.

Car-part.com uses Hollander’s exchange system to find exactly the used gearbox that can be interchanged with yours.

Pro tip: whenever possible, buy from a junkyard within driving distance of you! Once you’ve found your gearbox, sort by distance and if possible, buy locally to get the used gearbox you need to match to save on shipping. Because when you have a warranty situation, resolving a warranty claim is a lot harder when you’re buying a used transmission out of state or across the country. Shipping and labor are rarely covered in junkyard warranty situations.

Worst Option: Buying a used gearbox for sale on a website

Buying a used gearbox through a website or broker is not recommended and is very risky. To avoid fraud:

Avoid online brokers.

Always buy local.

Buy used transmissions only through a local auto repair shop or local authorized scrapyard.

Broker definition: Any business that is NOT a licensed scrapyard or repair shop offering used transmissions for sale online. In short, they simply buy used transmissions from junkyards through the search engine above, add hundreds of dollars to the price, and sell them to unwary customers.

Example of a used transfer broker’s BBB profile

On June 23, 2017, the Wisconsin Department of Justice filed a lawsuit against Cudahy-based Midwest Auto Recycling, LLC and its affiliates, which operate under at least ten unique website addresses, including Engine & Transmission World, Engine Shopper, and SW Engines . (PDF)

Abstract:

Reference: https://www.doj.state.wi.us/sites/default/files/news-media/6.23.2017_Midwest_Auto_Recycling_SummonsComplaint.pdf

As discussed above, these online transmission brokers wait for you to order, then typically use www.car-part.com to find a transmission, and then crack open the transmission for several hundred dollars, thereby making money.

Few online brokers are legitimate or will give you the exact mileage that was written on the gearbox they sell: sales reps are generally on a commission basis and will tell you anything you want to hear.

With an agent you end up paying several hundred bucks more for exactly the same thing you would have bought in a junkyard – but with the far greater risk of having a difficult time needing warranty support because you paid the agent not the recycling yard and you are unlikely to get a part with the actual mileage advertised. You’re dealing with an out-of-state business (usually no home) that bought at an out-of-state junkyard, and so on.

Sample of the ratings of a typical used transfer broker

Another example of a typical used transfer broker’s reviews

Many “low mileage” transmissions and engines that can be found online have made up mileage. Brokers today use the same mileage for a part number they advertised and sold to someone else months ago.

Example: You see a transfer on a broker’s website for 75,000 miles. you will buy it. The next day it will still be listed online with 75,000 miles. The next person will buy it. A week later it’s still listed online with 75,000 miles for the same price. Etc. The mileage is the same for that part number no matter what.

Conclusion: The miles these brokers advertise on the website are made up and the images are generic (they do not match the actual product). These transmissions do not exist. Once you order, the company will send you a used engine or transmission with the mileage they can find at the time you order – at any junkyard that has it.

As discussed above, they can pay $325 for a 125,000 mile transfer and sell it to you for $825 and claim it has 75,000 miles.

Pro tip: Resist the urge to buy a cheap gearbox over the internet that claims low mileage. Only buy from approved junkyards or workshops. Many brokers won’t tell you the actual mileage. They will almost always tell you it’s under 100,000 miles. Once you have made the purchase, there is no way for you or anyone else to check the mileage balance. The higher risk of a warranty situation is usually not worth saving. You have little or no recourse if the transfer doesn’t work properly. If you end up with a problem with the transmission (about 20-25% chance) you’re dealing with an out-of-state third-party company trying to get a warranty replacement from another out-of-state junkyard. When you read the many online reviews of used gearbox sellers, it’s a very difficult process that almost always ends up with you losing money on shipping costs and repetitive labor for installation. Additionally, many of these companies that sell gears online work from home.

How do I know if a seller of used transmissions is reputable?

It is highly recommended to avoid online brokers that sell used gearboxes. Always buy local. Buy used transmissions only through a local auto repair shop or local authorized scrapyard.

Pro tip: Many deals that have fancy websites that sell used transmissions on the internet run the business from home and “broke up”. Buying a used gearbox through your local workshop or junkyard will give you a much better service. Find licensed junkyards that list transmissions on the industry standard junkyard search engine www.car-part.com and save yourself money and headaches later.

Legitimate Used Transmission Suppliers:

– Have a street address listed on their website and that address is not a residential or forwarding address. Google the full address to know for sure. If the website does not list a full street address, or if the address appears to be a forwarding mail address, or an address with no automobile company on premises, this is a red flag.

– Have a local phone number and not just a toll-free 800 number. Legitimate companies have both toll-free and local numbers, not just an 800 number.

– Do not have a pattern of 1-star reviews on their Google Business Listing, Yelp, Better Business Bureau profile. Google the company name.

– Process warranty claims promptly and have a hassle-free warranty policy.

In short: buying outside of a junkyard or garage carries a high risk of having to spend extra money and time replacing the gearbox if it fails.

The venture between used gearboxes and remanufactured gearboxes

You have about an 80% chance of success if you choose a used gearbox. However, with used transmissions, there is about a 20% chance of failure or a problem in the first 90 days. Therefore, it is important to have a plan in place when the device fails.

Here’s an example of how you can end up paying more for a used transmission than a remanufactured transmission:

You can find a used transmission at your local junkyard that costs $850 with a 30-day warranty.

A remanufactured transmission of the same model with a 3 year warranty costs $1370.

You buy the used transmission for $850 and pay your shop $600 to install it for a total of $1450.

The used gearbox will fail during the 30 day warranty period. The junkyard will give you another used transmission under warranty.

You have to pay the workshop again to exchange them. The repair shop usually charges the same amount for the labor, $600, so now a total of $2050.

Result:

You are now on your 2nd used gearbox. They paid $2050 and have a 30 day guarantee.

The remanufactured transmission would have cost $1970 installed and would have had a 3 year warranty.

You paid more and got less.

This is a common situation where you end up paying more for a used transmission and getting less from a product and warranty.

This situation is also a good reason why if you are planning to buy a used gearbox for sale, buy it through the repair shop that will fit it as they are more likely to back up their job and help you with the job swapped back out if necessary .

Used Transmission Warranty – What is Covered?

One of the biggest downsides to buying a used transmission is the short warranty. Most used gearboxes come with a 30, 60, 90 day warranty, some from 6 months to a year. That may sound good on the surface, but most of these used transmission warranties don’t offer the protection you would expect as a used transmission is not usually a long-term solution. If there is a problem, most used transmission suppliers rarely pay additional labor costs to reinstall the unit if it fails.

In other words, if the used gearbox breaks down or has problems during the warranty period, most of these policies will only give you a used replacement gearbox. You will have to pay the labor cost for your mechanic to remove the second broken gearbox and install the next used gearbox, usually between $400 and $800. The probability of failure with another transmission used is the same as with the first one, making it a gamble.

How much does a used gearbox cost?

On average, a used transmission can cost anywhere from $800 to $1400 depending on the make and model of your vehicle. Labor costs for installation are in addition to the price of the unit and typically range from $400 to $800.

Repair Type Cost Range Minor Repairs (Clutch, Solenoids) $300-1400 Replacement Labor (R+R) $500-1200 – Used / Junkyard $800-1500 – Remanufactured / Local Rebuild $1100-2800 – Remanufactured $1300-3400

Transmission Repair Warranties Junkyard (Used) 90 days to 6 months Remanufactured 12 months, 12,000 miles Remanufactured 3 years, unlimited miles or 100,000 miles

Where does a used gearbox come from?

As the name suggests, a used gearbox has previously been ‘used’ in another vehicle. These typically come from a junkyard, which can acquire them in a variety of ways. The most common way for a junkyard to buy inventory is through the auction. This is where insurance companies and car dealers auction vehicles that are too damaged to sell on the retail/wholesale market. For insurance company vehicles, it could be an accident or flood damage. And for car dealers, many of them will discard trade-ins with overly high mileage or other issues that would exceed the value of the car being repaired.

Junkyards can also acquire inventory by buying cars direct from the public, and towing companies or mechanics looking to sell abandoned vehicles. These vehicles often have many usable parts. However, they do not know how the owners maintained their vehicle, which can have a major impact on the lifespan of the used transmission.

Which used gearbox do I need?

The search engine most frequently used nationwide by workshops and insurance companies to find a junkyard gearbox is www.car-part.com

What transmission do I have?

Checking the condition

When a donor vehicle arrives at the junkyard, many of them try to get the car running so they can determine what works and what doesn’t. If the car is not ready to drive, it will be difficult for them to test the working condition of the gearbox. Most large junkyards will then disassemble the vehicle and stock all serviceable parts. While smaller companies simply park the car somewhere on their property and remove individual parts when ordering.

You can check two things:

-Pull out the dipstick, check the fluid level.

– Pull out the pan, check for metal chips and liquid condition.

Once the transmission has been removed from the donor vehicle, a visual inspection will be performed and most will remove the transmission pan so they can assess the condition of the internal components. You may also be looking for metal shavings at the bottom of the pan or dark/burnt liquid conditions that can indicate serious internal problems. However, a visual inspection alone is not enough to assess the actual condition of the internal components. The way the transmission has been maintained also affects the life of the transmission. Unfortunately, you won’t know the answer to any of these variables until you install this transmission and hit the road.

Refurbished vs. Used transmission costs

The table below shows what a fair price for a remanufactured replacement gearbox is for a range of makes and models.

You can estimate your costs based on the prices shown for the type of transmission in your vehicle.

Not sure which transmission your vehicle has? Use our search tool below or one of these 5 other ways to find out.

Price table for Reman gearboxes

Transmission Street Smart Transmission 4L60E / 4L65E 2100 4L80E 2256 4T45E / 4T40E 1935 4T65E 1935 5L40E (Exc. BMW) 2453 6T40 / 6T45 2432 6T75E / 6T70 2432 6L80 / 6L90 2559 Allison 1000 2478 4R75E/W 4R70W 2025 4R100 / E4OD 2226 4F27E 1856 5R55S / N / W / E 2203 5R110W 2432 AX4N / AX4S 2037 CD47 FNR5 / AWTF-80 2148 6F50 2480 6R60 2559 AWF21 223 6R140 3864) 2583 Nissan CVT call 722.6 call

More information by transmission type

Pitfalls of a used gearbox

When a donor vehicle arrives at the junkyard, many of them try to get the car running so they can determine what works and what doesn’t.

If the car is not ready to drive, it will be difficult for them to test the working condition of the gearbox. Most large junkyards will then disassemble the vehicle and stock all serviceable parts. While smaller companies simply park the car somewhere in the yard and remove individual parts when an order is received.

Unknown state of internal components

Unknown lifetime

OE design errors may not have been fixed

Mileages listed by junkyards are not always accurate

The warranty only replaces the transmission, so you have to pay the labor costs

Is a used transmission right for me?

Before buying a used gearbox, the most important question to ask yourself is:

How long would you like to keep your vehicle?

If it has over 200,000 miles and is not worth repairing with a remanufactured transmission, or if you only plan on keeping the vehicle for a year or less, then a used transmission might be the solution for you.

However, if you plan on keeping your vehicle on the road for more than a year, you should first obtain an estimate for a remanufactured transmission. Here’s why:

• The entire gearbox is restored to the original OE specification

• Modifications and upgrades are made to correct OE design flaws and extend life

• Each remanufactured transmission is bench tested to ensure proper function and tuning and to break in all new parts

• Backed by a 3 year/unlimited mileage nationwide warranty

• Shipping is free

• No basic fee

• Financing is available through PayPal Credit

For almost all makes and models, it is cheaper to replace your transmission with a used transmission than to have your transmission overhauled or replaced with a remanufactured transmission.

However, if the used gearbox does not work after installation, there may be additional labor costs (and warranty/shipping costs) to fit a second or third used gearbox, resulting in a price that is higher than installing a rebuilt or remanufactured gearbox gearbox. In many cases, this makes the installation of a used gearbox a gamble: On the one hand, you can save money. On the other hand, an initial problem can cost more overall.

Click here for our latest remanufactured transmission price guides.