How To Feed A Blind Betta Fish? The 80 Top Answers

Eye diseases in fish

Eye disease in fish can result from disease, infection, or injury.

symptoms and types

These disorders can cause the eyes of the affected fish to show any of the following symptoms:

swelling

Magnification (giving the appearance of a popping eye)

blood in the eye

ulceration

distortion

parasites in the eye

anomaly around the eye

A fish eye is usually examined with a penlight or flashlight. These are used to determine if the problem is within the eye or in the surrounding area.

Eye injuries usually occur during shipping and handling, especially when the fish is struggling. However, blood in the eye is generally due to an infection or injury.

treatment

There are many common eye diseases that affect fish. The three main eye diseases in fish are:

Q

I have a freshwater aquarium where one of my larger fish is getting cloudy eyes. Do you know what causes cloudy eyes in aquarium fish and how can I treat it?

A

Several things can cause cloudy eyes in aquarium fish. Internal parasites such as protozoa or flukes are one cause. Another is the onset of cataracts in fish. I am not aware of any treatments for these problems. Bacteria can infect fish eyes damaged by injury. Treatment with a good antibiotic should cure these infections. nutritional deficiencies such as A lack of vitamin A, for example, can contribute to poor fish eye health. The most common cause of cloudy eyes in aquarium fish seems to be poor water quality, especially if the pH level in the aquarium water is too low. In my years as an aquarium dealer I have done many water tests for clients. When they complained about aquarium fish having cloudy eyes, almost without exception I found the pH in their fish tanks to be extremely low. Often the pH was so low that it was off the chart. Big fish produce a lot of waste. One of the by-products of biofiltration in a tank is the production of acids. In a tank with a high bioload, biofiltration can produce a lot of acid. Over time, these acids cause the pH to drop. How quickly this happens depends on the water chemistry of your local tap water, but it tends to happen quickly with large fish. Anyhow, the solution is simple. Check the pH of your aquarium. If it’s below 6.8, and especially if it’s below 6.4, change more water more often. If it is as I suspect, that’s all you have to do. Without medication, the aquarium fish heal immediately. If not, choose one of the treatments above.

From: Chewy Editorial

Featured image: Marcelo Saavedra/Shutterstock.com

adjustments

Covered with scales

The blind cavefish has skin covered with a layer of scales arranged in a head-to-tail pattern, much like shingles on a roof. These scales play a protective role for the fish and reduce drag when swimming. Fish also excrete a layer of mucus that covers their bodies, further reducing drag in the water. The slime also helps prevent infection by acting as a barrier to microorganisms, and also makes the fish slippery and difficult for predators to catch.

detect vibrations

Blind cavefish compensate for their poor eyesight with a more sensitive lateral line system that detects vibrations or changes in pressure in the water. The lateral line is a specialized sensory organ found in fish. It’s a system of channels that runs just under the skin along each side of the fish’s body. This channel is lined with special receptors that are very sensitive to vibrations and water currents, making it an “extended sense of touch” that allows the blind cavefish to detect obstacles at a distance. With this heightened sense, blind cave fish can find food and avoid encountering obstacles.

physical description

Blind cave fish grow up to 8.9 cm long. Females are slightly larger and plumper than males.

Their minnow-shaped body is pigment-free, leaving an off-white or light pink color.

You have scales on your body.

Their eye sockets are covered with scales and appear as dark spots.

These fish have a small adipose fin that is present between the dorsal and caudal fins.

diet

what is it eating

In the wild: Blind cavefish are excellent scavengers and will eat almost anything. They often feed on animal and plant remains swept into burrows

At the zoo: fish flake food.

what is it eating

Other larger fish prey on blind cave fish.

Social organization

Blind cavefish are found in large groups called “schools”.

life cycle

The blind cavefish has an elaborate courtship display in which both males and females make exaggerated movements of the mouth and gills. Presumably the turbulence these movements create helps the fish find a mate; Males and females swim side by side and then mate. Fertilized eggs sink to the bottom where they stick to rocks. Blind cavefish that grow in eggs usually develop eyes early, but the eyes begin to degenerate inside the egg. The fish can be born blind, or it can be born with functioning eyes that later become cloudy and shrink because there is no light in the dark caves and sight is not necessary. The lifespan of the blind cave fish is about ten years.

Fun Facts

Are fish blinking?

no Like snakes, they do not have movable eyelids. Instead, they have permanent transparent eye protection. Fish have excellent eyesight and can see parts of the spectrum that we cannot. They rely heavily on visual cues for species recognition, mate selection, and territorial defense.

When a cat gets fat, do its whiskers get longer?

Betta fish are popular because they’re generally hardy fish that aren’t difficult to care for, and they come in a kaleidoscope of striking colors and fin shapes. They are also intelligent fish that actually interact with their owners.

Betta Fish Bond with Their Owners Betta fish may not “love” their owners in the way a dog or cat would show affection, but they do show a clear interest and allegiance to their owners. Bettas are also known for having good memories and being able to remember people despite not seeing them for several weeks or more. They can also remember the layout of their tank and remember where plants and decorations were before you moved them. It is this ability to remember that helps them bond with their owners over time. So the more you do with your fish, the more likely you are to strengthen the bond the betta has with you. It’s also healthy for your fish as a lack of stimulation can lead to depression and stress.

How can I play with my Betta? There are a number of fun ways you can play with your betta fish and provide them with mental stimulation and a healthy environment.

Follow the Finger In this game you simply place your fingertip on the glass of your aquarium. Wait for your betta to swim over to your fingertip, then slowly move your fingertip along the glass. The idea is that the betta fish will follow your fingertip. As he follows you, you can move your finger in different directions, circles, and zigzags to challenge your betta to keep up with you. Note, gently place your fingers on the glass and do not tap it as this may disturb the fish.

Play Ball Try putting a small floating ball in the aquarium, such as B. a ping pong ball or a small plastic ball that looks like a cat toy. Slide it across the surface of the aquarium and wait for your betta fish to swim up and interact with it. Some bettas will swim around it while others will actually try to brush against it or push it themselves. As your Betta interacts with the ball, you can play with it by gently squeezing the ball with your fingers and encouraging it to move behind it.

Mirror Toys Pet stores sell toys that consist of a floating ball with a mirror hanging underneath. The idea is for the betta to swim to the mirror and see a reflection of itself and “flare up” its fins. While these toys provide stimulation, they can also cause your fish a lot of stress as they perceive their reflection as another fish in the tank posing a threat. Use these toys sparingly or avoid them altogether and instead choose toys that are not stressful for your fish.

Decorate the Outside of the Tank Betta fish love vibrant colors, so adding decorations to the outside of the tank can be a fun and stimulating activity for your fish. You can take a pack of colored construction paper or sticky notes, cut them into shapes and tape them to the outside of the tank glass. Rotate them when your fish shows interest in them. You can experiment with attaching shiny items like metallic or sparkling decorative papers or even hanging small colored glass ornaments on the aquarium as the luster and movement will definitely attract your fish’s interest.

Aim for Your Finger Another fun game you can play with your betta is teaching it to touch your finger when you put it in the water. You can do this by gently placing your finger on the water surface and sprinkling some food around it. You will need to use floating food for this as you want the food to stay on the surface and you may want to temporarily turn off the filter so the flow doesn’t spread the food around the tank. At some point, your fish should touch your finger while walking to the feed. If you repeat this activity over and over again, he may touch your finger first before he gets his meal.

Train Your Fish to Do Tricks You can actually train a fish using the same principles that animal trainers use to clicker train. You can buy fish training kits or train them yourself. Some tricks Betta fish owners have taught their fish to swim through hoops, jump out of the water, push a ball in the tank, and more. You will be amazed at how quickly your fish can learn tricks and this is an excellent way not only to bond with them but also to prevent boredom and keep your fish happy and healthy.

Many owners panic when they see a betta fish lying at the bottom of the tank. They assume something is seriously wrong.

After all, fish are supposed to swim, right?

But actually it’s a bit more complicated. There are a number of possible reasons why a Betta might be bottomed (and not all of them are bad).

And this guide will help you with that.

It will teach you why they might be at the bottom of the tank, how to approach any problem, and how to use positional and behavioral cues to accurately diagnose problems.

Is it normal for betta fish to lie on the bottom of the tank?

Fighting fish are some of the finest in the area. With their long, flowing fins and vibrant coloration, they are at their best when swimming around in your aquarium and showing off their beauty.

But what does it mean when a betta starts laying down on the bottom of your tank? It is normal?

Observing this behavior can be alarming for owners who are used to seeing their fish behaving in a lively and playful manner.

There are actually several reasons a betta might do this, and some of them are harmless enough. Others, however, give cause for concern.

That means it’s normal sometimes.

All possible causes

Understanding your betta fish behavior can help you determine when to take action. Here are some of the most common reasons a Betta fish is lying at the bottom of the tank.

1. The betta is getting older

Bettas have a relatively short lifespan. In good conditions, these fish live between three and five years! If you’ve had your Betta for a while, it could be suffering from the effects of age.

Like any other animal, old Bettas tend to slow down as they get older. They just don’t have the energy to dart about their habitat like they did when they were younger. Their bodies slow down and they have a harder time keeping up with younger fish.

Therefore, most older fish prefer to rest a little longer. Your fish may begin to lie on leaves or spend more time resting on the substrate at the bottom of the tank.

Author’s Note: Unless you have raised your fish from the frying stage, it is difficult to determine the age of the fish. Even if you only got your betta a few months ago, it could have spent years with a breeder or in the shop. If your fish appear generally healthy and just seem to be slowing down, they may be reaching the end of their lives.

2. Ammonia poisoning

If your fish produces waste, the level of ammonia in the tank will increase. As you probably know, ammonia is a dangerous chemical for fish. It can cause chemical burns in the gills and eventually death.

The problem with ammonia is that you can’t see it. You must rely on good tank maintenance and monitoring to keep these levels from skyrocketing. In other words, regular water changes and a good filtration system.

If you don’t have an effective filter, the ammonia level will constantly rise. This weakens your betta fish.

Basically, they have trouble breathing!

Small tanks or crowded environments also tend to suffer from ammonia problems. Use a test kit to check ammonia levels. The only “safe” level is 0 PPM. Anything higher and your fish could suffer.

3. Excessive current

Betta do not do well in strong currents. In fact, their massive fans are purely decorative. They don’t do much to help this fish swim.

If you have significant flow from the filter or air pump, chances are your fish are exhausted!

It takes a lot of energy to constantly fight against a strong current. Your betta fish may have given up and decided to rest by laying down on the bottom of the tank.

To reduce the flow of water from your filter, you can attach a sponge filter. Alternatively, you can redirect the flow towards plants or decorations. Breaking up the flow will do a lot to reduce the flow throughout the aquarium.

4. Nitrate poisoning

Nitrate is another compound produced by fish waste. However, it is a by-product of bacterial breakdown. Bacteria in a well cycled tank will convert ammonia into nitrites. Then the nitrites are broken down into nitrates.

Nitrates are comparatively less harmful than ammonia. Still, they do a lot of damage.

And to make matters worse, nitrate is a slow killer.

It makes fish lethargic and weak (and can cause them to lie down on the bottom of the tank). Your Betta could lose their appetite and have trouble breathing. You might even see their color fading.

Pull out your water test kit and see where the nitrate levels are. Ideally, you shouldn’t have more than 5 to 10 PPM.

5. The water is too hot

Temperature shock is a very real threat to bettas. These fish like warmer temperatures. However, excessive heat in summer will bring several health problems.

You see, warm water releases oxygen much faster than cool water. It’s not so much the temperature that’s the problem. Rather, it is the lack of oxygen that is causing problems for your fish!

Without this oxygen, your betta fish will gasp at the bottom of the tank. Despite their ability to breathe atmospheric air, water without a good supply of oxygen is a serious problem.

Author’s Note: Cool down your tank temperatures slowly. You can do this with a fan or a room air conditioner. Use an air bubble to quickly add some oxygen to the water.

6. Swim bladder disease

Your fish’s swim bladder is a crucial organ that it needs to swim. It controls buoyancy. When a fish suffers from swim bladder disease, they often swim in odd patterns, have trouble moving, or lie down on the bottom of the tank.

This disease is fairly common in Bettas. These fish have healthy appetites and as a result often eat more than they should. This can lead to constipation and swim bladder problems.

You can treat the disease by offering high-fiber foods like daphne fleas and blanched peas. To avoid this in the future, reduce the amount of food you offer.

Sometimes swim bladder disease is chronic. Treatment does not help all fish. In these cases, the fish usually need to be euthanized.

7. Sickness & Illness

If your betta fish looks lethargic and spends time lying on the bottom of the tank, it could be ill.

There are many diseases that affect Bettas. In fact, due to a weaker immune system, these fish are more likely to suffer from diseases.

Diseases like Ich, Bloat, Dropsy and more can cause Betta fish to become weak.

Author’s Note: In most cases, these diseases are caused by stress and a poorly maintained environment. Keep an eye on the water conditions and make sure the parameters are within an acceptable range.

When things go beyond the recommended range, your betta fish will become stressed and more susceptible to disease.

8. Just take it easy

A betta fish lying at the bottom of the tank is not always a cause for concern. Sometimes your fish just take it easy!

Look at their behavior. If the pelvic fins are still moving, your fish may be relaxing! They can move before resting on the substrate.

While those huge fins look great, they can be tiring for a betta. Because of this, they can take a moment to rest. This is completely normal and no reason to panic!

9. The water is too cold

Like excessive heat, cold water can cause problems beyond the Betta’s comfort zone. Ideally, your tank’s water temperature should be no lower than 74 degrees Fahrenheit (find out more by reading our full care guide).

If the temperature falls below this, your fish’s metabolism will slow down. Oxygen is also absorbed more slowly. This combination of events will cause your fish to become very weak and lethargic.

If you don’t raise the temperatures, your fish could become stressed and contract an illness.

Author’s Note: Use an in-tank heater or lamps to slowly raise the water temperature in the aquarium. Don’t try to do everything at once!

10. The aquarium is not big enough

Many new fish owners make the mistake of thinking bettas can live anywhere. It is true that they do well in aquariums that only hold three gallons.

But bigger is always better!

If your fish are confined to a tiny barren environment, they have nothing to do! There is nothing to discover. Your Betta will quickly lose interest in things and will have no choice but to lie down on the bottom of the tank.

It’s not the best way to live, is it?

Give your betta fish extra space to explore. Consider increasing the tank size by a few gallons. You should also implement all kinds of enrichment items for your fish.

This includes caves, plants and natural decorations. All of these things will keep your fish happy and healthy.

11. They sleep

Believe it or not, bettas sleep like any other animal! They actually follow the same general sleep pattern as humans. They like to rest at night and stay active during the day.

If they don’t get enough sleep at night, they might end up dozing on the bottom of the tank!

Betta fish have a unique reputation for finding interesting places to sleep. They can snuggle up in corners, rest on the substrate, or even sleep on plant leaves!

If you notice that your Betta is sleeping a lot throughout the day, think about your setup for the night. Do you leave the tank lights on at night? What about the ambient lighting in the room?

Leave your fish in a dark, quiet place at night to ensure they get all the sleep they need.

The importance of positioning

It’s important to note how your betta fish lays on the bottom of the tank. Different positions and movement patterns can help you choose the right cause from the list above!

Below we go over some of the most common signs to look out for.

What Causes a Betta Fish to Lay on Its Side?

In most cases, a Betta lying on its side is not a big problem. Betta fish actually prefer to sleep on their side rather than in an upright position.

Author’s Note: Take a close look at their gills to make sure they’re breathing and otherwise healthy. A healthy betta should perk up as soon as it wakes up.

While side-sleeping is completely normal, you can give your fish more options if you want to keep them off the substrate.

Consider adding plants to the aquarium. There are also many “sleeping shelves” and artificial caves. These decorative items are specially made for sleeping fish!

What if your betta is at the bottom of the tank and not moving?

If your fish isn’t moving, you’ll need to take a closer look to see what’s going on.

Take a look at their gills. Hope your fish is breathing well! If so, they’re probably just sleeping. Bettas can’t close their eyes so it looks like they’re still awake.

If your fish is trying to move its fins, you may be dealing with thermal shock or swim bladder disease. Adjust the temperature accordingly, but make sure to do it slowly.

Unfortunately, there’s not much you can do to get immediate relief from swim bladder disease. You can reduce the water flow to make it easier for your fish. However, it’s largely a waiting game before you can offer high-fiber foods.

Finally, there is a chance that your betta fish could be dead. Chances are you’ll see the signs of death coming before it does. Because bettas can’t close their eyes, it’s easy to mistake death for sleeping.

If your fish isn’t moving its gills, there’s a good chance it’s already been passed on.

What causes them to be upside down on the bottom of the tank?

Seeing your betta fish in an upside down position is an important warning sign! Typically, this is a sign that your fish has swim bladder disease.

If they are still breathing or trying to move their fins, you can easily tell that something is still going on inside. It’s good.

Reduce the current in the aquarium and wait a bit. You can also add some salt to the tank (this can sometimes help with clogging issues).

What if they’re breathing heavily at the bottom of the tank?

If your betta fish is lying at the bottom of the tank and breathing heavily, you need to act as soon as possible.

There are a few possible causes for this:

It could be ammonia poisoning, nitrate poisoning, or hot temperatures. All of these problems make it difficult for betta fish to breathe, which explains the heavy and labored breathing.

Test the waters to see what problem you need to address. If it’s ammonia or nitrate poisoning, perform a 50 percent water change for immediate relief. Then make changes to prevent the levels from rising again.

In hot temperatures, turn on an air conditioner in the room and direct a fan at the water surface. Do not use ice cubes or cold water to lower the temperature. You need to do this slowly so you don’t kill off any beneficial bacteria.

Wrap up

As you can see, seeing a betta fish lying at the bottom of the tank isn’t always a bad thing. Sometimes they just need a break!

But you still need to be prepared if the cause is severe.

Preparation and a constant level of quality care are two things great owners practice. You must understand your fish in case you need to help them!

Since this is so common among Betta owners, please share this guide with others as much as possible. We hope to help as many aquarists as possible get informed!

Water changes are basic maintenance for any fish keeper. No filter can process all the waste generated. And you always have to add new water to replace what evaporates over time. Betta love it when you freshen up their tank, but how often do you actually change a betta’s water?

What water conditions do Betta fish prefer?

Bettas are incredibly popular because they can thrive in a wide variety of water conditions. In the wilds of Thailand, they can be found in shallow streams, paddy fields, ponds, and other slow-moving, even stagnant, bodies of water. In these muggy conditions, dissolved oxygen levels become so low that other fish often cannot survive.

Fortunately, bettas have their labyrinthine organ that allows them to breathe air. Do you see your betta coming to the surface every few minutes for a breath? It literally breathes air, just like us, because air contains about 100 times as much oxygen as water.

Bettas not only prefer very warm conditions, but also a soft, acidic chemistry. The weedy surroundings of their home are full of decaying plant matter. Vegetable tannins, humic acids and other substances act as acid buffers and bring the pH below 7.0. However, bettas also thrive in alkaline conditions; but if you can, keeping the pH below neutral will make them happier!

The total hardness (GH) and the carbonate hardness (KH) are also quite low. There are few dissolved minerals in the water, which is why their water is as soft as it is.

If you can, it’s a good idea to keep aquatic plants alongside your betta. Plants absorb the carbon dioxide (CO2) exhaled by your fish as a nutrient and release oxygen for them, improving the aeration of your aquarium. Plants also directly consume all three nitrogenous waste products (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) and use them for food, making them nice little biological filter systems.

And if your male betta is lucky enough, he’ll probably try to build a bubble nest. Plants that grow near the surface are what he’s looking for because they serve as anchors for his Bubble Nest raft. Once it is safe and no longer threatening to float away, he will likely start looking for a female Betta to lure her into his love nest.

Why are water changes important?

Water changes are important because they are the only way to remove certain waste products from your aquarium. And while some other chemicals break down over time, they accumulate much faster than the breakdown processes take place, making water changes essential.

Water changes are like spring cleaning your aquarium. You open the windows, beat the carpets, dust the furniture… Together, the whole atmosphere of your home changes and it makes you feel so much better. Your fish will become lethargic when chemicals build up and water changes are essential to good health!

What Chemicals Cause Bettas Problems?

The three main pollutants that should be part of every fish keeper’s vocabulary are ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Together, these chemicals form the backbone of the nitrogen cycle. I go into detail about how this process works in my article on biological filtration.

But to explain in a nutshell, your aquarium, especially your filter, is home to beneficial bacteria that eat ammonia, the first and most toxic form of waste that fish and other organisms release. This ammonia is digested and released as nitrite, which is less toxic but still a problem for most animals. Luckily, a second group of bacteria eat that and convert it to nitrate.

Nitrate then accumulates in your aquarium because the bacteria that eat nitrate need special conditions that are rare in most aquariums. Plants also use nitrates (as well as nitrite and ammonia) but unless you have a heavily planted Walstad aquarium you cannot rely on them for all your filtration needs. Therefore, we need to do water changes to remove this excess nitrate.

How often to change the water of a betta

There are a few factors that affect how often you should change your betta’s water. But the short version is that small water changes of 10-20% every 7-10 days are best for your betta’s health. This also assumes that you are running a filter. You can also do a 20-30% water change every 2-3 weeks, but smaller water changes are better for stable water conditions!

How often do you feed your betta?

The amount of food you give your betta is important – and not just because your betta needs to eat! Leftover food contributes directly to the increase in ammonia and other waste products. So when fish guides say “never overfeed” they mean two things: don’t allow food debris to build up without being eaten, and don’t overfeed your betta too often!

Some aquarists believe it’s a good idea to offer their betta “extra food” in case they get hungry later on. Any extra feed will immediately start to rot and cause problems for your fish. In this case, it is better to underfeed than overfeed.

Bettas eat quite a bit in a single meal; one solid feeding per day is all they need. They aren’t nearly as active as tetras and other fast-moving fish and don’t need a lot of food. Feed your betta enough to make its stomach visibly round and slow it down. The more you feed your fish, the easier it will be to know exactly how much your betta will be eating at each session.

If you like interacting with your fish through food more often, you can also split your meal into three smaller feedings per day. Like all fish, bettas are always ready to eat, as in nature they never know when their next meal will come.

What kind of filter are you using?

If you bought your Betta with a Spider Vine or other plant growing out of its bowl, you may have been told that the vine “filters the water while the Betta eats the vine,” in a kind of Circle of Life tale . Unfortunately this is completely wrong.

The plant will certainly pick up ammonia and other waste products, but not nearly enough to fully clean a Betta shell. And bettas are 100% carnivores; Any root biting is due to the bettas finding some small organisms to eat. Or it explores its surroundings with the only gripping tool it has: its mouth.

Whether you prefer a sponge, power, or canister filter, you should always use some type of filter on your betta aquarium. Betta have a reputation for not needing a filter because they can survive in small, stagnant bodies of water in the wild.

But the keyword here is survival. We don’t want our pets to simply survive in our care; We want our fish to thrive, be healthy and happy! So instead of providing the essentials, we can use a filter to process waste in the tank and increase the time between water changes!

For most aquariums, a good quality sponge filter will provide adequate filtration for a single adult betta plus a few tank mates. Sponge filters not only provide tremendous mechanical filtration capacity, but also provide a home for beneficial bacteria that feed on ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate (biological filtration). Many sponge filters even have activated carbon (chemical filtration) compartments, completing the trifecta of ideal aquarium filtration!

Some Betta aquariums use bottom filters, but I’m not a big fan of them. They trap debris under the gravel, where it tends to slowly break down aerobically. And to clean it, you have to lift the plates, which might fill the water column with dirt and mess up your entire aquascape.

How Big is Your Betta Aquarium?

Contrary to popular belief, large aquariums are actually easier to maintain than smaller ones, and for a very good reason. The more water you have, the longer it takes for the chemistry to change. Larger tanks easily maintain a stable temperature range, salinity, pH and other parameters that all fish prefer.

Even so, you’re probably keeping your betta in a 3-5 gallon tank, which is still fine. It just means you have less leeway for overfeeding and other potential fouling problems.

Change the water of your betta

While you can’t use untreated tap water, it doesn’t take much time to test and treat! A small change in water chemistry goes a long way in keeping your Betta healthy!

accessories you need

Siphon Hose: A siphon hose is used to direct water from an aquarium into a bucket. Typically powered by gravity, they can create a strong current that a long-finned male Betta may not be able to withstand. So always keep an eye on the tank when changing the water!

A siphon hose is used to remove water from an aquarium into a bucket. Typically powered by gravity, they can create a strong current that a long-finned male Betta may not be able to withstand. So always keep an eye on the tank when changing the water! Dechlorinators: Untreated tap water usually contains chlorine or chloramine. These chemicals are used as disinfectants to ensure bacteria don’t get into your drinking water. But these chemicals are toxic to fish and must be neutralized before adding the water to your aquarium.

Untreated tap water usually contains chlorine or chloramine. These chemicals are used as disinfectants to ensure bacteria don’t get into your drinking water. But these chemicals are toxic to fish and must be neutralized before adding the water to your aquarium. Water Test Kit: In order to monitor the conditions in your Betta aquarium, as well as the chemistry of the incoming tap water, you will need test kits for pH, GH, KH, and other parameters. Fortunately, you can get most of the tests you need in a single Freshwater Master Test Kit.

In order to monitor the conditions in your Betta aquarium, as well as the chemistry of the incoming tap water, you will need test kits for pH, GH, KH and other parameters. Fortunately, you can get most of the tests you need in a single Freshwater Master Test Kit. pH Adjusting Reagents: If your tap water chemistry is wildly different from the range you want to maintain in your Betta aquarium, you will need chemicals to raise or lower the pH to keep it within an ideal range keep. Betta are hardy to a pH of 8.0 but far prefer a pH of 6.0-7.0. They are much more likely to show better colors and breeding activity in soft, acidic conditions.

If your tap water chemistry is wildly different from the range you plan to keep in your Betta aquarium, you will need chemicals to raise or lower the pH to keep it in an ideal range. Betta are hardy to a pH of 8.0 but far prefer a pH of 6.0-7.0. They are much more likely to show better colors and breeding activity in soft, acidic conditions. Bucket or no-spill siphon hose

Thermometer: When adding fresh water to the tank, a thermometer should be used to get the temperature as accurate as possible. Temperature shocks can make fish just as sick as humans.

Sale API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test… Includes one (1) API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT…

Helps monitor water quality and prevent invisible…

Accurately monitors the 5 most important water parameters…

When matching the temperature of your incoming freshwater to your betta’s tank, know that you don’t have to be very precise. You can add enough water to lower the temperature by 2-3 degrees from the usual temperature or raise it by 5 degrees without any problems. Tropical fish tolerate heat changes much better than cold. But I wouldn’t stress the fish by causing drastic shifts too far beyond those limits.

If you haven’t already, you should definitely have a heater for your betta as well. Once again, the toughness of bettas can make their lives harder than they need to be. Although they can live in unheated water, they are Southeast Asian natives who prefer temperatures around 78-84℉ or even warmer.

Unheated room temperature water is about 65-72℉ and unnecessarily stressful for the poor fish. A simple plug-in heater the size of a small tank will boost your appetite and disease resistance in no time!

frequency of water changes

For aquariums of all sizes, frequent small (10-20%) water changes are much better than infrequent large ones. Or rather, do both, but often rely on large changes (30%+).

The problem with large water changes is that they are a significant disruption to established water chemistry. Bettas are extremely hardy and are not likely to show too much stress. But it certainly won’t be thrilled by, say, a sudden pH shift from 6.5 to 7.5 after adding tons of fresh tap water. Other fish can be instantly killed by such a change.

Conclusion

Water changes are important and very easy to do as long as you follow a few essential steps first! Small, frequent water changes are always better than large, infrequent ones. When using a siphon hose, remember to be mindful of your slow-swimming betta. And when you add fresh water, you must do your best to adjust the temperature and chemistry parameters, as switching too quickly can leave your fish vulnerable to disease and other problems.

John Staughton is a traveling writer, editor, publisher and photographer who received his degrees in English and integrative biology from the University of Illinois. He is co-founder of the literary magazine Sheriff Nottingham and content director at Stain’d Arts, a non-profit arts organization based in Denver. On his ongoing journey towards the idea of ​​home, he uses words to educate, inspire, uplift and evolve.

adjustments

Covered with scales

The blind cavefish has skin covered with a layer of scales arranged in a head-to-tail pattern, much like shingles on a roof. These scales play a protective role for the fish and reduce drag when swimming. Fish also excrete a layer of mucus that covers their bodies, further reducing drag in the water. The slime also helps prevent infection by acting as a barrier to microorganisms, and also makes the fish slippery and difficult for predators to catch.

detect vibrations

Blind cavefish compensate for their poor eyesight with a more sensitive lateral line system that detects vibrations or changes in pressure in the water. The lateral line is a specialized sensory organ found in fish. It’s a system of channels that runs just under the skin along each side of the fish’s body. This channel is lined with special receptors that are very sensitive to vibrations and water currents, making it an “extended sense of touch” that allows the blind cavefish to detect obstacles at a distance. With this heightened sense, blind cave fish can find food and avoid encountering obstacles.

physical description

Blind cave fish grow up to 8.9 cm long. Females are slightly larger and plumper than males.

Their minnow-shaped body is pigment-free, leaving an off-white or light pink color.

You have scales on your body.

Their eye sockets are covered with scales and appear as dark spots.

These fish have a small adipose fin that is present between the dorsal and caudal fins.

diet

what is it eating

In the wild: Blind cavefish are excellent scavengers and will eat almost anything. They often feed on animal and plant remains swept into burrows

At the zoo: fish flake food.

what is it eating

Other larger fish prey on blind cave fish.

Social organization

Blind cavefish are found in large groups called “schools”.

life cycle

The blind cavefish has an elaborate courtship display in which both males and females make exaggerated movements of the mouth and gills. Presumably the turbulence these movements create helps the fish find a mate; Males and females swim side by side and then mate. Fertilized eggs sink to the bottom where they stick to rocks. Blind cavefish that grow in eggs usually develop eyes early, but the eyes begin to degenerate inside the egg. The fish can be born blind, or it can be born with functioning eyes that later become cloudy and shrink because there is no light in the dark caves and sight is not necessary. The lifespan of the blind cave fish is about ten years.

Fun Facts

Also Known As: Eye Fluke

introduction

The eye fluke is a parasite of fish. Its scientific name is Diplostomum spathacaeum, but other Diplostomum species may also be involved.

In fish, the parasite migrates to the eye, where the metacercariae are located. This leads to blindness and the inability to find food, especially in species that rely on their sight to hunt, such as B. salmonids.

When the parasites invade the fish in large numbers, they can lead to “acute cercarial attack syndrome,” resulting in very serious damage and death.

life cycle

The life cycle of Diplostomum is complex and involves two other hosts: the definitive host, which is a gull or fish-eating bird, and an intermediate snail host (usually Lymnea species).

In the bird’s gut, sexual reproduction and egg laying occurs via the bird’s droppings into the water. Free-swimming cilia then hatch from the eggs, which infect the snail’s intermediate host and reproduce asexually. Cercariae are released from the snails and actively seek out fish to act as a second intermediate host. Millions of cercariae can be released within a very short time.

The cercariae usually enter through the flank of the fish, often along the lateral line, and migrate through the tissues to the eye where the metacercariae develop.

The life cycle is complete once a fish-eating bird has eaten the fish and the metacercariae develop into adults in the bird’s gut.

clinical signs

Fish become blind, which appears as a dark fish unable to eat, losing condition, and having increased vulnerability to predators.

Acute cercariosis syndrome presents as acute mortality with bleeding resembling severe bacterial infection.

Metacercariae can be visible in the eye of the fish upon close observation.

diagnosis

Cataracts and metacercaria may be visible in the eyes of fish.

A fish eye squash preparation can show the organisms by microscopic examination.

Gross Pathological Signs: Petechiae and exophthalmia are observed in recently infected fish. Chronically infected fish often show darkening, exophthalmia with emaciation and loss of condition, lens dislocation and capsular rupture. The entry site is marked by a tiny capsular perforation through which cortical lens fibers exit.

Histopathology: Acute infections cause subcapsular cataract formation with variable capsular changes. Occasionally, the perforations lead to lens rupture and severe endophthalmitis, followed by generalized cortical liquefaction as flukes migrate to the anterior cortex with proliferation of the lens epithelium.

treatment and prevention

Fish once infected cannot be cured.

Control of an outbreak may involve filtration of the water to 30-40 microns to remove cercaria from the water.

Prevention involves excluding birds from the farm and controlling snail populations, but this can be difficult to implement.

The cerceria are buoyant and there has been some success in taking water from the deep to feed a fish farm.

Diplostomum spathacaeum learning resources flashcards

Test your knowledge with flashcard-like questions Ornamental fish Q&A 17

references

Noga, E. (2010) Fish Disease: Diagnosis and Treatment John Wiley and Sons

Roberts, R. (2001) Fish Pathology Elsevier Health Sciences