How To Get Horse Hair Out Of Clothes? 97 Most Correct Answers

If your dog or cat sheds, you are well aware of the problem. And unfortunately, you probably also know that removing all that pet hair from your bedding, clothes or pet bed can be a real chore – for you and your washing machine.

“Removing pet hair from most fabrics is definitely a challenge,” says Randy Radtke, a spokesman for laundry equipment maker Speed ​​Queen. “Once you add water into the equation, it becomes all the more difficult.”

The mixture of water and pet hair creates clumps that stick to fabrics and the sides of the washer drum, clogging the drain pumps.

Use this laundry trick to say goodbye to pet hair and avoid the headache of a clogged washing machine. You won’t believe how easy it is!

We all love our furry friends. In fact, we love them so much that we let them sleep in our beds, lie on our sofas, and rub our clothes. Before we know it, everything is covered in animal hair. And unfortunately, getting rid of pet hair on clothing and upholstery isn’t quite as easy as throwing it in the washing machine.

The solution is a little-known laundry trick that removes hair before washing. It’s just as handy as this trick to never losing a sock again!

How to remove hair and lint Prewash

Why not just let the washing machine remove the hair? Because pet hair sticks to fabric fibers – and adding water only makes it worse. The wet hair forms muddy clumps, sticks to the side of the washing drum and can even clog the drain. But the good news is that there’s a quick fix – so don’t give up cuddling with Fido just yet.

The trick is to use the dryer first! Yes, you read that correctly. Dryer, then washing machine, then dryer again. How to do it:

First, remove as much pet hair as possible by hand. A lint roller or tape works great. Another option is to put on a rubber glove, wet it slightly, and then run your hand over the fabric. The hair and fluff stick to the damp rubber. When you have removed as much as possible, shake out the clothing or bedding well. Then put the laundry in the dryer. Throw in a dryer sheet or two—one of our favorite cleaning secret weapons. The anti-static properties of dryer sheets help repel hair and trap it in your dryer’s lint trap. Set the dryer on low heat or no heat for about 10 minutes. Simply running laundry through a tumble dryer will loosen fabrics and pet hair, no heat required. When the dryer has finished, take out the clothes, give them a final shake to remove any remaining pet hair, and put them in the washing machine. Then you want to use the dryer again, this time on its normal setting. Don’t forget to clean the lint filter first!

Have fur and lint-free sheets, blankets and more with this trick in your back pocket. Avoid these washing mistakes the next time you clean up!

How to clean a saddle pad

Three things you need to know

Learning how to clean a western saddle pad is an important rite of passage for any avid rider. It’s a task that must be accomplished if you want to extend the functionality of the wool saddle pad and reduce the buildup of unwanted hair and dirt.

While it would be nice to simply toss a western saddle pad in the washer or dryer, these actions can result in a damaged pad. Instead of taking chances with the washing machine, you can easily rid your western wool saddle pad of unwanted hair, dirt and sweat with the following tips.

Follow these tips

There are several steps you can take to clean your western saddle pad. Remember that the number of steps you need to complete depends on how dirty your saddle pad has gotten.

Use a squeegee in a circular motion on the underside of the pad.

This movement, which is similar to your horse’s grooming method, helps to remove dirt, dried sweat and hair from the pad. After you’re done currying, flip the pad over a fence post and use the palm of your hand or a stiff riding crop to further loosen the dirt, dried sweat, and hair. After using a rubber curry comb, it might be time to use a vacuum.

Make sure you keep the pad flat throughout the suction phase so you don’t accidentally damage the edges of the pad. For very dirty western saddle pads, you will need to use a garden hose after the first two steps are complete.

Spray the wool pad with cold water from the center. Push the dirt and hair to the outside edges of the saddle pad. Never spray directly onto the pad; This simply drives the dirt further into the wool fibers. Hanging the pad by a clip may tear, tear, or otherwise deform the pad. Instead, hang the pad to dry by placing it over a saddle rack, fence post, or ceiling hanger.

Discovering the secret to cleaning a wool western saddle pad is as easy as following the three steps above. By simply learning how to clean a saddle pad, you can ensure that this important piece of horse tack remains in good condition. Then it can provide extra comfort, support and protection for your horse on every single ride.

Would you like to find out more? Call Best Ever Pads at 805-528-8009 or send us a message.

Help your horse shed its winter coat

As spring approaches, the horses begin to shed their thick winter coats. Consider these suggestions to speed up the process or simply to help your horse.

To help your horse shed his thick winter coat, it is first important to understand what causes his hair to grow. Although hair growth generally coincides with colder temperatures, it is primarily the number of daylight hours that affects a horse’s hair growth, or lack thereof. As daylight hours and fall temperatures slowly decrease, you may find your horse growing a soft, fluffy coat over his short, sleek summer coat.

Likewise, you’ll find that the thick, long winter hair sheds as daylight and spring temperatures rise. It is actually the horse’s pituitary gland that senses this change in daylight hours and produces hormones that cause a horse to shed its winter coat.

If you want to speed up the molting process, light and vigorous grooming can help.

First, by adding artificial light to a horse’s surroundings, likely its stable, you can fool the horse’s body into believing it is closer to spring than it actually is. This can cause the horse to shed its coat earlier than it normally would. It’s important to remember that ambient temperatures may require an extra blanket or protection to keep your horse comfortable with his new coat.

The light source should be turned on to provide enough supplemental light to provide a total of 16 hours of daylight (natural and artificial). The perception of day length must be constant from day to day; Using automatic timers can make this task easier. Light intensity should be comparable to a 200 watt incandescent bulb for a 12 x 12 foot coop.

Also, too much light doesn’t speed up this process, so don’t add too much artificial light. It takes about 60 days before you notice the effects of the light (i.e. increased hair loss); This should be taken into account so that you start adding lights at the right time.

Second, vigorous grooming can help prepare your horse’s coat for show season. Here’s a great Grooming for Success YouTube playlist presented by Extension Horses. In order to significantly affect your horse’s coat, you need to do more than the occasional light brushing. It’s curry and elbow grease that’s needed to get this job done!

A curry comb is a useful tool for removing dirt, old hair and debris from your horse. To be most effective, it should be used in a circular motion. You should be careful when using this brush on areas of the face and below the knees and ankles as these areas have little to no muscle and are sensitive areas.

Visit this eXtension article to learn even more about proper grooming techniques.

Our last blog focused on how to protect your horse from the spring mud and moisture in paddocks, pastures and stalls. Today’s post focuses on another common spring theme, spilling! Learn how to survive your horse’s spring shedding AND what it can reveal about your horse’s health.

Spring means dandruff… and lots of it!

Ah, spring! Warmer temperatures, longer daylight hours, and beautiful new growth in every way! But it also means something else when your horse sheds its thicker winter coat in spring.

While most horses shed with the advent of spring, not all horses do.

Read on to learn why some horses may not retire in time or as quickly as others.

Consistent horse care is crucial to your horse’s health!

Maintaining a regular grooming routine year-round will help ensure proper hair shedding and new hair growth!

Check out our 20 piece Equine Tack Shop Starter Kit to make grooming your horse easier, faster and more convenient!

For single or bulk orders, call 860-573-0604 or click here to email us.

Maintaining a regular grooming routine year-round will help ensure proper hair shedding and new hair growth!

Check out our 20 piece Equine Tack Shop Starter Kit to make grooming your horse easier, faster and more convenient!

For single or bulk orders, call 860-573-0604 or click here to email us.

It is NOT about warmer temperatures

While shedding is a spring nuisance, it is actually a “complex physiological process” that can tell you a lot about your horse’s overall health.

Did you know that warmer temperatures do NOT trigger your horse’s coat in spring? Equus Magazine explains:

Shedding is not triggered by temperature. It is associated with photoperiods. As the hours of daylight increase, a horse’s winter coat begins to loosen and shed. This process started back in late December, but you won’t usually see the obvious, hairy results until now.

Each horse should molt on a consistent schedule each year; although this time frame may be different for each horse. Individual horses also shed their winter coats in the same pattern (i.e., first from the neck and then down the flanks) each year.

But what if your horse doesn’t shed as usual? Below we examine some of the health reasons why a horse may not shed “on time”.

The Johnny-Come-Lately Shedding horse

Is your horse keeping his heavy winter coat longer this year? There may be some medical reasons behind this.

Cushing’s disease

If your horse normally sheds its winter hair at the same time each year, late shedding could be a sign of Cushing’s disease (especially if your horse is over 7 years old). Cushing’s disease is a common hormonal imbalance in horses involving a dysfunctional pituitary gland that can disrupt timely shedding.

Another sign of Cushing’s disease is long “cat hairs” under the abdomen and chin, which are usually the last to fall out.

Contact your veterinarian immediately for a proper diagnosis and treatment plan (and to avoid developing laminitis).

deworming

Another problem behind late hair loss can be the need for deworming. Normally, administering a dewormer – if necessary – will encourage complete shedding of the winter coat. Your veterinarian can give you the best advice.

It could be your barn!

If your horse is perfectly healthy and free of parasites, your stable may be to blame! Because the extra daylight hours cause a horse’s winter coat to shed, artificial lighting and dark stable interiors can delay timely shedding. How to fix this problem:

Give your horse 24/7 access to pastures. Customize your turnout plan; or Use full-spectrum bulbs in your barn’s lighting fixtures, set to turn on and off automatically to provide a total of 16 hours of daylight (natural and artificial).

Not enough grooming and brushing

While medical issues can be behind your horse’s late shedding, it can also be something as simple as not grooming and brushing vigorously enough to effectively encourage your horse’s normal shedding.

Make sure you keep up with your regular grooming and brushing to stimulate the hair follicles to shed that old winter coat and encourage new healthy growth!

Always consult with your regular veterinarian to properly diagnose and treat your horse regarding their health history and overall condition.

Additional reading:

Spring Shedding on Horses: Fix for a late shedding horse bug

What the shedding can tell you about your horse’s health

Cushing’s syndrome in the horse

Help your horse shed its winter coat

Photo credit:

Photo by Tim Savage from Pexels

Photo by Eberhard Großgasteiger from Pexels

Photo by Brandon Randolph from Pexels

Photo by Rodolfo Quiros from Pexels

Image by PublicDomainPictures from Pixabay

Product image: Courtesy of EquiGroomer

1. Wash your clothes inside out

This is particularly effective on garments that you know are lint repellents or lint magnets. Washing these clothes inside out will help contain lint and prevent it from falling onto your entire laundry load.

2. Wash with distilled white wine vinegar

Another fantastic use for distilled white vinegar is in washing. Similar to fabric softener, distilled white vinegar prevents static electricity and helps soften clothes and blankets. It also acts as a natural cleaner and brightener, naturally fighting unusual odors and stains.

Simply pour a cup of distilled white vinegar into your washing machine’s rinse cup – or pour it directly into the load during the rinse cycle.

3. Use the Air Only setting on the dryer.

The often underused or forgotten Air Only, Air Dry, or Lint setting on your dryer is perfect for removing lint without overdrying clothes and wasting electricity.

Because the air-only cycle uses unheated, room-temperature air, it’s perfect for shaking off lint and drawing to the lint screen of your dryer.

4. Use a dryer sheet

Of course, incorporating a dryer sheet into your laundry routine will help reduce lint and soften clothes. But did you know that dryer sheets are great lint magnets outside of the dryer too?

Take a laundry sheet and rub your lint-laden clothes with it as you would with a lint roller. After a few passes, your clothes should be lint free. Check out Grove’s range of dryer sheets to find a non-toxic, compostable variety that won’t stink your air or clog up landfills.

Learn more drying towel tricks from Dr. Clem Choy, scientific formulations expert at Grove.

You’ve just bought some new polar fleeces for guests to use while enjoying a frosty afternoon in your garden, complete with hot chocolate and marshmallows, but your fur baby has decided they’re definitely a great new place to snuggle and take a little nap. Next thing you know, they’re covered in animal hair!

Dog and cat hair love to bind and cling to fleece clothing and blankets because the fibers seem to literally soak up the fur much more than other fabrics. In this article we give answers on how to remove pet hair from fleece material!

First, let’s take a look at the quick and short answer as to the best way to remove annoying hair from your fleece blankets and clothes.

How do I get dog hair out of fleece? To effectively remove dog and cat hair from fleece, there are a number of things you can do. Using static electricity can remove the hair. With rubber gloves or of course a lint roller. To ensure your pet doesn’t leave hair anywhere, make sure you give dogs thorough grooming, ideally outside of your home.

Now that we’ve seen the short answer on how to remove pet hair from fleece items, let’s take a closer look at how you can easily and effectively remove the hair without the stress.

Why does dog and cat hair stick so firmly to fleece items?

Removing the hair from all types of polar fleece — like human blankets or dog blankets — let alone polar fleece clothing, can be a chore that you have to do quite often if you have any type of furry pet.

This is especially frustrating as that trusty fleece jacket is often the first thing you snatch on a dog walk, and when you put it back in the closet it’s almost as if it’s been turned into a fur coat!

So why is fleece such a magnet for puppy hair?

Synthetic fabrics like acrylic, polyester, and nylon have increased potential for static cling, which attracts dog hair and cat fur more than other, more natural fabrics. Polar fleece is usually made from synthetic fibers for blankets. jackets, hats and gloves.

Some great tips for removing pet hair from fleece

Rubber Gloves Use a rubber glove to easily remove hair from the fleece. Place the blanket or item on a table and wipe the blanket with the mitt to gather the hair. For stubborn stains, soak the glove in water. The water helps the glove grab the hair. Discard the hair as you work through the entire garment.

Use a rubber glove to easily remove hair from the fleece. Place the blanket or item on a table and wipe the blanket with the mitt to gather the hair. For stubborn stains, soak the glove in water. The water helps the glove grab the hair. Discard the hair as you work through the entire garment. Rubber Broom/Brush If you have way too much stubborn dog hair on things around your house, I would definitely invest in a rubber broom or brush. I think this is the best solution for removing hair, especially on carpets. It also works on fleece and other surfaces. The static charge of the bristles and the texture of the rubber cause the hair to curl up like steppe grass and get stuck in the brush.

If you have way too much stubborn dog hair on things around your house, I would definitely invest in a rubber broom or brush. I think this is the best solution for removing hair, especially on carpets. It also works on fleece and other surfaces. The static charge of the bristles and the texture of the rubber cause the hair to curl up like steppe grass and get stuck in the brush. Adhesive rolls Rolls with disposable adhesive backing, e.g. B. Lint brushes are an excellent tool for hair removal. Place the item on a hard surface and roll it over until the adhesive strip is covered. Remove the strip to reveal a fresh section of adhesive and continue until the hair is removed. Alternatively, use a plain piece of household tape and blot the blanket to grab and remove the fur.

Rolls with disposable adhesive backing, e.g. B. Lint brushes are an excellent tool for hair removal. Place the item on a hard surface and roll it over until the adhesive strip is covered. Remove the strip to reveal a fresh section of adhesive and continue until the hair is removed. Alternatively, use a plain piece of household tape and blot the blanket to grab and remove the fur. Static Electricity Use static electricity to easily remove hair from the fleece. Rub a dryer sheet over the blanket or clothing to grab the hair. Also, consider rubbing an inflated balloon on the ceiling to trap and dispose of hair.

Use static electricity to easily remove hair from the fleece. Rub a dryer sheet over the blanket or clothing to grab the hair. Also, consider rubbing an inflated balloon on the ceiling to trap and dispose of hair. Washing Machine Remove as much hair as possible using the alternative methods above, then run a wash cycle. Place the blankets and clothes in a dryer with dryer sheets to remove hair via the lint screen. Use multiple drying and fluffing cycles to repeatedly trap hair in the lint collector. Clean the trap between each cycle to make room for more hair.

NOTE: Use the low heat setting on your dryer for fleece.

“Because polar fleece is typically made up of synthetic fibers and their short fibers, your pet hair loves to cling to anything made out of fleece, like fleece. B. Blankets. Jackets, hats and gloves.”

How can I prevent dog hair from sticking to my fleece items?

Now that you’ve seen some great tips for removing pet hair from your favorite fluffy items, let’s take a look at some preventative steps you can take to ensure you minimize the possibility of wasting your busy days cleaning up after your pooch spend or cat!

We’ll start with a look at the top preventive methods you can take to ensure your pet hair or fur doesn’t get buried in your favorite fluffy items.

It goes without saying that minimizing contact between the fleece and your dog or cat will save time cleaning your fleece blankets and jackets. Regular grooming during the molting season will save you a lot of time.

Groom your dog or cat. It’s best to groom your dog regularly to reduce the amount of hair on your blankets and fleece clothing. Comb the dog weekly with a good quality brush to prevent dog hair from entering your home. Also, keep your fleece in an area where the dog or cat has little opportunity to lay on and rub against the material.

It’s best to groom your dog regularly to reduce the amount of hair on your blankets and fleece clothing. Comb the dog weekly with a good quality brush to prevent dog hair from entering your home. Also, keep your fleece in an area where the dog or cat has little opportunity to lay on and rub against the material. Take the dog to an outdoor area weekly and brush to remove hair in an outdoor area outside of your home

weekly and brush to remove hair in an outdoor area outside of your home. Cover furniture with blankets. This can prevent dog hair from reaching your human blankets by covering furniture and contact areas with dog-specific blankets. Substitute dog-friendly blankets when you have guests

This can prevent dog hair from reaching your human blankets by covering furniture and contact areas with dog-specific blankets. Substitute dog-friendly blankets when you have guests. Vacuum your carpet regularly and sweep hardwood floors to catch hair before it sticks to blankets and clothing

And finally…

Removing pet hair from any fabric you own can be a real chore. Hopefully this article has given you some quick and easy ways to remove pet hair from your favorite fleece!

After all, who wants pet hair to cling to your new fleece blankets designed to keep your human guests warm and cozy, or even turn your fleece doggy walking jacket into a fur coat!

If you have any questions about animal care or kennel care, contact (1-800-222-5537) and we’ll be happy to help.

PetSuds® and other great cleaning products are available both retail and wholesale and ship direct to you through Alpha Tech Pet.

Long, coarse hair that grows on horses’ manes and tails

For horsehair worms, see Nematomorpha

Horsehair is the long hair that grows on horses’ manes and tails. It is used for a variety of purposes including upholstery, brushes, musical instrument bows, a durable fabric called haircloth, and for horsehair plaster, a wall covering material formerly used in the construction industry but now only found in older buildings.

Horsehair can be very fine and flexible; Mane hair is generally softer and shorter than tail hair. The texture of horsehair can be affected by the horse’s breed and management, including natural conditions such as diet or climate. The processing can also affect the quality and feel.

Horsehair is a protein fiber that absorbs water slowly, but can be effectively dyed or dyed with common dyes suitable for protein fibers. It can be felted, but not easily.[1]

Used[ edit ]

Mane hair is shorter and softer than tail hair.

Horsehair fabrics are woven with tail hair from live horses and cotton or silk warp threads. Coveted for its luster, durability and care properties, horsehair fabric is primarily used for upholstery and interiors.[2]

Horsehair is used in the craft of horsehair stretching, horsehair braiding, pottery, and in making jewelry such as bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and hair clips.[3] It is used to make some wall and art brushes. Horsehair for painting and hat brushes are two of the areas where horsehair is still widely used today. The hair is processed, trimmed and attached to brushes that are used for everything from painting walls to painting pictures to be hung in galleries. Horsehair is desirable for brushes because of its smooth lay and ability to hold a large volume of paint, which serves as a reservoir and allows the painter to stop less frequently.[4]

Horsehair is used for violin and other stringed instrument bows. Another use in the art community comes from pottery and basket weaving, where the hair is used for distinct accents and styling.[5]

The use of horsehair for fishing has a wide range of applications. The most common use for horsehair is in fishing line. The hair is spun together and made into very long lines.[6]

One historical use was gloves, commonly used for fishing in cold climates from the Middle Ages through the 17th century.

In the early 1900s, surgeons used horsehair and silver wire to sew the incisions needed for a facelift.[8]

supply [ edit ]

Most horsehair comes from slaughtered horses.[9] Hair for bows comes from ponytails in cold climates and is sorted by size.[9] It comes primarily from stallions and costs $150 to $400 per pound because of the sorting required to extract long hair.[10] Mongolia produces 900 tons of horsehair per year.[11]

history [edit]

There has been some speculation as to when horsehair was first used. Many sources indicate that the Spaniards were the first to use horsehair as a textile in the 8th century.[12] However, the first documented use was from the 9th century in Switzerland, where the Swiss used it for the plans of the St. Gallen monastery. The plans, a blueprint for a monastery complex in the Middle Ages, are a Swiss national treasure and are said to have been woven with horsehair.[13]

It was widely used in the 19th century as a padding (e.g. for fabric sofas [14]) and as an upholstery fabric for furniture. It was almost always the fiber that was used to make shaving brushes. It was also common in hats and women’s underwear. It was used in hair to create the “Gibson Girl” look and in the 18th century it was used in wigs. Up until the 20th century, along with sable, fox, wolf, goat and lamb hair, it was commonly used to make brushes for fine arts. Calligraphy brushes are made from rabbit, fox or horse hair, among other things. Fishing lines have been made from braided horsehair for thousands of years.

Other applications[edit]

Today, horse hair samples from the mane and tail with attached root tissue are commonly used for DNA analysis of horse samples. Private genetic testing companies routinely use DNA extracted from horsehair root follicles for relationship testing, genetic disease testing, and determining coat color genetics.[15]

See also[edit]

camel hair

Mohair – goat hair

Do horses have fur? what you need to know

Do horses have fur?

Fur, hair, wool – why are there so many names for the fur of horses and other animals? While some people assume it has to do with the length of the coat, that’s just not true. We are here to settle the debate once and for all.

Do horses have fur? While hair and coat are terms that are used interchangeably for some animals, you will never hear a rider refer to their horse’s coat as a coat. A horse’s coat is known as hair, but is often referred to simply as fur.

In this post, we will dive deeper into the differences between fur and hair. We will also share some interesting tips about your horse’s coat and how the condition of your horse’s coat can give you insight into its health.

Understanding a horse’s hair

A horse’s hair serves many purposes. At a very basic level, a horse’s hair serves as protection from the wind and cold and helps your horse maintain a stable body temperature. In addition, your horse’s coat will help keep flies and other pesky insects at bay.

By understanding the anatomy of your horse’s hair and the many purposes it serves, you can practice proper grooming techniques while caring for your horse.

Horse Hair vs Fur: What’s the Difference?

Dogs and cats have fur, large mammals like bears have fur, but what about horses? At a very basic level, fur is dense enough to be used in the crafting of clothing and other items. Hair, on the other hand, is less dense and often much shorter.

However, aside from the usage of the words, hair and fur are quite similar. Both hair and fur are made of keratin and grow from follicles in the skin. When it comes to the horse’s coat, riders use the term hair, although many horse lovers simply refer to their horse’s hair as coat.

The anatomy of horse hair

To properly groom your horses hair, you need to understand the anatomy of each hair. Your horse’s hair is very similar in structure to your own hair. Each strand of hair contains three unique layers, each serving a different purpose.

The innermost layer of the hair is called the medulla. This layer contains loosely packed cells that become shiny when not properly hydrated. The diameter of the medulla determines how thick that individual strand of hair is. Thinner hairs on your horse’s body have a thinner medulla, while the thick hairs on the mane and tail have a more pronounced medulla.

Around the medulla is the cortex. The cortex contains keratin, water and fats that contribute to the strength of the hair. Keratin is the same protein that makes up human hair and fingernails! Melanin, which determines your horse’s hair color, is also found in the bark.

The layer of hair visible to the eye is called the cuticle. The shine or dullness of a horse’s coat is often determined by the health of the cuticle. When the cuticles are rough, dehydrated, or unhealthy, the coat will appear dull and brittle. However, a healthy cuticle will appear shiny, lush and healthy.

Understanding the anatomy of your horse’s hair will help you address grooming issues. In many cases, the problem that causes your horse’s coat to lack shine is due to a problem in the cortex, or middle layer, of the hair.

Do horses lose their fur?

Horses have three different coats: a light summer coat, a short winter coat, and a long winter coat. Because of this, horses certainly have a shedding period. Your horse’s shedding is naturally controlled by photoperiods. This means that the presence or absence of daylight triggers a response in your horse’s brain that signals coat growth or shedding.

Some horse owners choose to manipulate the natural growth patterns of their horse’s coat. One of the most common ways horse owners retard the growth of a thick winter coat is by keeping their horse in a lighted stable after sunset.

Some horse owners also manipulate photoperiods as summer approaches to speed up the shedding of a horse’s winter coat.

Why is my horse losing hair?

The appearance of your horse’s coat can give you incredible insight into your horse’s overall health. While practicing proper grooming techniques can help increase the overall shine of the coat, certain conditions make it almost impossible to achieve a shiny coat using external techniques alone.

When a horse has a dull or brittle coat, it is most often caused by a lack of proper nutrition. If you notice your horse’s hair losing its shine, it’s important to review the vitamins and minerals he’s getting to address any deficiencies in his diet.

It’s never a good feeling to see your horse losing hair. If hair loss occurs during a change of seasons, routine hair loss is likely to blame. However, certain types of diseases or illnesses can also be responsible for hair loss in your horse.

Two of the most common conditions that can cause hair loss in horses are anagen defluxion and telogen defluxion. Both conditions can be triggered by an illness or condition and can cause your horse to lose hair for up to three months after the incident. If you notice excessive shedding or bald patches in your horse, it’s important to make an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out the possibility of an underlying condition.

Caring for your horse’s coat

The health and condition of your horse’s coat has a major impact on its overall appearance. There is nothing more beautiful than a horse with a healthy, shiny coat. Achieving this goal, however, often takes hard work and dedication. Here are some ways to promote the overall health of your horse’s hair.

Provide the right nutrients

Nutrients are key to the health of your horse’s hair. It is important to ensure your horse is getting the necessary vitamins and minerals, including vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin C, zinc, iodine and copper. In order to achieve a shiny coat, your horse also needs adequate amounts of protein and fat in its diet. Your horse’s diet lays the foundation for a beautiful coat.

promote circulation

Healthy skin promotes healthy hair. The natural oils present in your horse’s skin play a huge role in keeping each hair coat healthy and hydrated. A great way to promote healthy hair is to increase blood flow to the skin and promote oil production. This can be done with a cactus towel, a curry comb or even a professional horse massage.

Address underlying concerns

As we’ve already discussed, sometimes dull and brittle hair is the result of an underlying health condition. If you’ve reviewed your horses’ diets and used the right grooming techniques with no positive results, it may be time to seek professional help. Many conditions can contribute to a dull coat, including parasites, gland problems, and fungal infections, to name a few.

Pay attention to the skin

The health of the skin has a major impact on the overall appearance of the hair. While it’s certainly important to groom and bathe your horse, it’s just as important to preserve the natural oils that promote a shiny coat.

In most cases, it is not necessary to use shampoo regularly. Plain water is often enough to wash away sweat and dirt from your horse’s coat. If you use shampoo, make sure you use a shampoo designed for horse hair. Far too often, horse owners resort to inferior shampoo or even dish soap, doing more harm than good to hair health.

Using a coat conditioner is also a great way to restore the natural oils that are stripped from the skin when shampooing. After using any product, be sure to rinse your horse thoroughly until the water is clear to eliminate any irritation or residue.

Benefits of caring for a horse

In my years as a rider I have gained many valuable care tips and an appreciation for this sometimes mundane task. Here are just some of the reasons I consider grooming to be one of the most valuable aspects of horse ownership today:

Care promotes health

Grooming not only keeps your horse’s skin and coat healthy, but also helps you ensure he is not showing any signs of illness or injury. When grooming your horse, examine every area of ​​his body carefully. During this time, you can assess any areas of pain or soreness.

Grooming also helps prevent bacterial or fungal infections that may develop on their coat or in their hooves.

Grooming provides floor-level interaction

One of the most important things you can do as a horse owner is build a bond of trust with your horse. Grooming allows you to spend time with them and allow them to become comfortable with your presence. Grooming is also a great way to desensitize a horse to human touch and build trust and acceptance.

If you want to learn more, you can find my entire horse care guide here.

As a rider, I’ve learned to love the many aspects of horse ownership, from riding to grooming. By perfecting your grooming techniques, improving your horse’s diet and monitoring for signs of disease, you can achieve a shiny coat that will be the envy of the stable.

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Horsehair, animal fiber obtained from the manes and tails of horses, ranging in length from 8 inches (20 cm) to 3 feet (90 cm) and is usually black in color. It is coarse, strong, shiny, and elastic, and usually has a hollow central canal, or medulla, giving it a fairly low density. Hairs from the mane are the softest, ranging in diameter from 50 to 150 microns (one micron is approximately 0.00004 inches). Tail hair, coarser and more resistant, ranges from 75 to 280 microns in diameter and is sold separately.

The longest hairs are used for fabrics; medium lengths are used to make bristles for paint, industrial, and household brushes; and very short hair is curled for use as stuffing in upholstered furniture and mattresses. High-quality white horsehair is used for the strings of fine violin bows.

Horsehair fabric or hair cloth, woven stiffly and openly, is usually made from longitudinal threads of another fiber such as cotton and long transverse threads of horsehair. It is used as an interlining or stiffener for tailored clothing and millinery, but is gradually being replaced by synthetic fiber materials for such purposes. Once made into the shirts of religious penitents, the fabric became a popular upholstery material in the 19th century. Horsehair for the textile industry is mainly exported to Argentina and Canada; other producers are Mongolia, China and Australia.

Have you ever taken your smelly, sweat-dried, hairy, used saddle pads home to be laundered, only to be disappointed when they came out of the washing machine looking almost the same? Not to mention the horsehair blast left in your machine…

Sigh. We’ve all been through that.

Folks, it’s high season when winter turns to spring. Here are some tips on how to properly depilate your saddle pads and have them looking like new in just one wash. We hope these tips will also help improve your relationship with your family about the cleanliness of your home washing machine. Much luck!

The vacuum is your friend

Before you stuff those dirty pads in the washing machine, vacuum them. Yes, we are serious. Take your vacuum of choice (personally I like the handheld vacuum I bought specifically to rid the couch of dog hair) and roll these pads over a few times to get rid of as much hair as possible. Bonus points if the vacuum has a brush extension that helps loosen the dried, matted fur dirt that’s stuck to the fabric like glue.

If you don’t want to use the vacuum, a brush designed specifically for removing pet hair also works well. There are some specialty horse brushes, like this one from Haas. But there are many dog-themed options on Amazon. Give the saddle pad a hard brush (ideally on the outside) before sticking the pad in the washing machine. These brushes also work well as a post-wash brush, just in case there are any horsehair stragglers left over.

Go all out with a pressure clean

Do you have a pressure washer in the garage? Perfect. Pressure washer your saddle pads (in the yard or driveway) to get rid of the hair and excess dirt in no time. If you don’t have a pressure washer, a Shop Vac also works wonders at vacuuming away all the hair. Then throw these pads in the washing machine.

stain remover

OxiClean is the best stain remover I have personally used, both on my competition attire and my white competition saddle pads. The key is to apply the stain remover and let it sit long enough before throwing it in the washing machine. It’s gentle enough to use on various types of fabrics including my Ecogold Hunter Pad and my sheepskin strap liner.

Ammonia, baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, and vinegar are other great stain removal options. For more laundry tips – including how to get blood, sweat and tears out of your showwear – click here to read more.

How to clean a saddle pad

Three things you need to know

Learning how to clean a western saddle pad is an important rite of passage for any avid rider. It’s a task that must be accomplished if you want to extend the functionality of the wool saddle pad and reduce the buildup of unwanted hair and dirt.

While it would be nice to simply toss a western saddle pad in the washer or dryer, these actions can result in a damaged pad. Instead of taking chances with the washing machine, you can easily rid your western wool saddle pad of unwanted hair, dirt and sweat with the following tips.

Follow these tips

There are several steps you can take to clean your western saddle pad. Remember that the number of steps you need to complete depends on how dirty your saddle pad has gotten.

Use a squeegee in a circular motion on the underside of the pad.

This movement, which is similar to your horse’s grooming method, helps to remove dirt, dried sweat and hair from the pad. After you’re done currying, flip the pad over a fence post and use the palm of your hand or a stiff riding crop to further loosen the dirt, dried sweat, and hair. After using a rubber curry comb, it might be time to use a vacuum.

Make sure you keep the pad flat throughout the suction phase so you don’t accidentally damage the edges of the pad. For very dirty western saddle pads, you will need to use a garden hose after the first two steps are complete.

Spray the wool pad with cold water from the center. Push the dirt and hair to the outside edges of the saddle pad. Never spray directly onto the pad; This simply drives the dirt further into the wool fibers. Hanging the pad by a clip may tear, tear, or otherwise deform the pad. Instead, hang the pad to dry by placing it over a saddle rack, fence post, or ceiling hanger.

Discovering the secret to cleaning a wool western saddle pad is as easy as following the three steps above. By simply learning how to clean a saddle pad, you can ensure that this important piece of horse tack remains in good condition. Then it can provide extra comfort, support and protection for your horse on every single ride.

Would you like to find out more? Call Best Ever Pads at 805-528-8009 or send us a message.

Because western saddle pads provide an important protective barrier between your horse’s back and the saddle, they need to be cleaned regularly. A pad caked with sweat and hair can cause chafing, which can eventually lead to saddle sores. Keeping your western saddle pad clean will also increase its lifespan. In addition, horses occasionally develop contagious skin conditions (like rain rot) that require riders to thoroughly clean their tack – including their saddle pads. Unfortunately, many riders are unsure how to properly clean a western saddle pad. The good news is that we’ve covered the steps below! Clean the pad every few rides, or at least look at it to see if cleaning is needed.

How to clean a wool saddle pad

Never throw a wool western saddle pad in the washing machine or dryer. This is especially true if you have invested in a quality pad or one designed for a specific riding discipline such as barrel racing or roping. Both machines can damage your pad and shorten its useful life.

Instead you should:

1. Loosen dirt, sweat and hair. Start by scrubbing your wool pad with a rubber curry comb in a circular motion – just as you would groom your horse. You can also try tapping the pad with a stiff riding crop or an old tennis racquet to loosen any stuck dirt or sweat. Use a soft brush on the top of the pad to remove hair and dirt. Be careful not to overcurve or brush your pad as this could fray the material.

2. Remove dirt from your pad. Next, use a vacuum with a hose attachment to rid your pad of the now-loosened dirt and hair.

3. Wash your pad. Using a spray attachment on a garden hose, spray the water outward toward the edges of the pad. This pushes dirt and hair off the surface. Never point the hose directly at the pad as this will drive the dirt into the wool. Never hang your pad with a clip or clamp during this process. Your pad becomes very heavy with water, which can distort its shape or even cause it to tear.

4. Dry your pad. Allow your pad to air dry. Again, it’s important not to hang it up with a clip. Instead, place it over a saddle rack or fence rail to help your pad hold its shape.

Make the leather look good

Now that you have a better idea of ​​how to clean a saddle pad, here are some tips for caring for leather trim.

1. Wipe the panel with a damp cloth.

2. Apply a good leather conditioner. This also applies if you hose down the leather when cleaning the upholstery.

3. Avoid exposing the leather to excessive heat, e.g. B. in a dryer.

Benefit from years of use of your saddle pad

With proper care, a well-made saddle pad should provide many years of comfort and protection for your horse’s back. However, it is important to look out for signs of wear. For example, if your pad doesn’t return to its original shape after washing, it may be time to invest in a new one. Best Ever Pads offers an excellent selection of high-quality western saddle pads. For more information contact us today.