How To Give A French Horn A Bath? All Answers

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Can brass instruments get wet? (explained for beginners)

Buying a brass instrument is a significant investment, so you might be concerned if it gets wet.

If you’re in a marching band, you know rain is inevitable. If you play outside, you need to know how to properly care for your instrument.

With brass instruments, you don’t have to worry about rain damage, but it’s important to know how to avoid moisture build-up.

Let’s talk about whether brass instruments can get wet and what you can do to avoid expensive repairs:

Here’s if brass instruments can get wet:

Although brass instruments can get wet, it is important to dry the instrument completely afterwards. Brass instruments are waterproof, but moisture build-up can cause serious problems. Brass players should regularly clean their instruments inside and out a few times a year.

Can brass instruments be played in the rain?

Fortunately, brass instruments are not as badly affected by rain as woodwind instruments.

Brass instruments like a trumpet do not have a felt backing and are therefore not as badly damaged by rain.

Woodwind players have to be careful to avoid the rain. Any moisture can cause the felt pads and corks to expand, resulting in improper seals and can be a costly solution.

On brass instruments, they don’t suffer as much water damage. It is possible to play the trumpet in the rain, but it is better to avoid it.

Marching bands will take shelter from the rain for its effect on woodwinds. For drum corps that only have brass instruments, they perform regularly, even when it’s raining. This is because brass instruments are not as badly affected by rain.

The only important thing to remember is to dry off your instrument after it has been exposed to rain. Although brass instruments can play in the rain, moisture can cause damage.

After playing in the rain, allow your trumpet to air dry or wipe away moisture with a towel. If you put your brass instrument in your case without drying it, it could become moldy, rust, or suffer other damage.

Can you shower your brass instrument?

It is best to bathe your brass instrument about two to three times a year.

Even if you clean your trumpet regularly, moisture can build up inside. Thorough cleaning of your instrument is essential preventive care.

Baths are much more effective than showers. It’s easier to clean a brass instrument with a bath since you don’t have constantly running water.

Here are the steps to follow when bathing your horn:

Step one:

Line a large bathtub with old towels or sheets.

Placing your instrument in the bath without a protective covering can damage your horn.

Step two:

Fill the bathtub with lukewarm water.

Add some dish soap.

Step three:

Disassemble all parts of the horn, including rails, mouthpiece, and other moving parts.

Remove the springs and felt pads in the valves, being careful not to put them in the water.

These are the only parts that could be damaged in this process.

Step four:

If you haven’t taken a bath for a long time, leave your instrument in the bath for about 1 to 3 hours.

You should also do this if your valves are stuck.

Otherwise leave it on for 20 minutes.

Step five:

Thread a cleaning snake through all of your slides and mouth pipes.

Please don’t force it through as it may get stuck.

Clean your mouthpiece with a mouthpiece brush.

Step Six:

Rinse all parts and lay them on a towel.

Step seven:

Now move the instrument around to remove all the water inside.

If you still hear water moving inside, try rotating it 360 degrees.

Excess water should exit through the bell.

Step Eight:

Allow your horn to dry thoroughly. You can remove surface moisture with a clean cloth.

Lay your horn on some towels and let it air dry for a few hours.

Step nine:

Spin your horn to get rid of settled water.

Step ten:

Reassemble your instrument. Be sure to use valve oil up to the valves.

Grease all rails before putting them back on the horn.

To see this full process, check out this great video from Making Music Magazine!

Is it important to dry the instrument immediately?

It is important to dry your brass instrument after it has been exposed to water.

Although not as easily damaged as woodwind instruments, brass horns can suffer damage due to moisture build-up.

Putting a brass instrument back in the case without drying it could cause big problems. Doing this creates a humid environment that is perfect for mold and mildew to grow.

To keep both you and your instrument healthy, always allow it to dry before putting it back in the case.

Can brass instruments corrode or rust from exposure to water?

Because brass instruments are made of brass, they can corrode or rust if not properly cleaned and dried.

Brass corrodes quickly over time from exposure to oxygen and moisture. In general, this is a natural process, but prolonged exposure to water could speed up the process.

If you clean your instrument regularly, you can avoid these problems.

After playing your instrument in the rain or bathing, always allow it to dry thoroughly.

What is the best way to clean a horn from the inside?

When you play a brass instrument, it’s important to keep it clean.

Being a musician is a busy lifestyle, but you won’t want to skip the exterior or interior grooming.

It’s easier to tell when the exterior needs cleaning. Fingerprints, dust and stains must be removed with a soft cloth.

By doing this daily you can protect the finish. Without regular cleaning, fingerprints can attack the paintwork.

Yamaha recommends using a small amount of furniture polish on painted surfaces. For a plated finish you can use a glass cleaner. This will prevent future damage to your instrument.

The inside of a brass instrument can be more difficult to clean. In every instrument there is a natural build-up of moisture and debris that needs to be removed.

Here are some Yamaha tips for keeping the inside of your brass instrument clean:

Use valve oil

Regularly oiling your valves can be successful in keeping them clean and working well.

You should put about five drops of valve oil on the leadpipe to prevent dirt from getting stuck inside.

Wipe the lead pipe

It is best to wipe down the leadpipe and other areas of your instrument regularly.

This will absorb any moisture that builds up while playing.

Most musicians will be tempted to simply empty the water key, but this only removes about 50% of the moisture.

Give your instrument a bath

Bathing your horn a few times each year is an effective way of keeping the inside clean.

For small instruments, be sure to rinse the leadpipe and tuning slides.

To do this, you should use dish soap, water and a cleaning snake. For larger brass instruments, you can use swabs instead.

Final Thoughts

In general, brass instruments can get wet.

The most important thing to remember is to properly dry your instrument in this case. Putting a wet instrument back in its case can cause serious damage, including mold or rust.

All brass players should know how to bathe their horns. This allows you to thoroughly clean your instrument and avoid build-up of moisture or other debris.

This will ensure your horn will perform well for many years.

Sources:

It’s raining – take care of your instrument

How to clean your brass instrument – bathe it

How to keep brass instruments clean – inside and out

Compared to some instruments, basic horn maintenance is not difficult.

However, the most important thing for the player to keep in mind is that rotary valves are not designed to be user serviceable. Unless you have experience taking out a rotary valve under the direct guidance of an experienced brass technician, it is better not to attempt it. While you can certainly watch a YouTube video to learn the basics, a lot is done by feel and hammering around is not recommended.

oral hygiene

One of the most important rules for a clean, functional horn is good oral hygiene.

If possible, avoid eating or drinking anything (other than water) before playing. If you must eat or drink, be sure to brush your teeth (or at least rinse your mouth with some water) before playing. Remember that spool and valve tolerances are measured in thousandths of an inch – it doesn’t take much to slow them down.

Oils for rotary valves

There are many choices when it comes to using lube, and each has their own personal preferences.

I use the following:

Blue Juice – for the inside of the valves

Hetman Lubricants – for the bearings and other moving parts (bearings, linkages, water keys)

However, you have other options. You should pay attention to this when choosing your oil:

Generally you want to use something light and very thin for the inside of the rotary valve. Piston valve oils (like Blue Juice, Al Cass, or similar) work great for the inside of the valves and are easy to find at most instrument stores (or online).

For the bearings, you’ll want something thicker with a needle-point oiler. These bottles are sometimes referred to as “rotor oil” but are actually intended for the upper and lower bearings of the vane. I use Hetman 13, Hetman 14 or Hetman 15 depending on what I’m oiling, but something like SuperSlick would also work well.

A side note on Hetman:

One of the reasons I’m such a fan of Hetman is the very clear numbering/viscosity system. It’s very easy. So if you find you need something thicker (to reduce noise/endplay at the expense of speed) or thinner (for newer valving or for more speed) it’s very easy to find what you need. Since they’re all synthetic, you can even mix them – if #14 is too thin and #15 is too thick, you can mix them to have something in between.

A common complaint I hear from some students (but especially parents) is how expensive instrument oils can be. While I prefer them, it’s possible to use more generic lubes if you want to save some money.

The most common recommendations I hear are lamp oil for the inside of the valve and 3 in 1 machine oil for the bearings and linkages. Remember, since these oils are all petroleum based, you can also mix them to get different viscosities. As it comes 3-in-1 is a little thick, but mixed with some lamp oil it becomes quite nice.

If you buy one of these oils (or any other all-purpose oil), you’ll want some smaller bottles to carry the stuff around in. You can find small dropper bottles and needle-tipped bottles on Amazon.

One of the main disadvantages of using some of these petroleum based lubricants is that they generally have an odor that is noticeable. It bothers some people, not others, but be aware.

How to lubricate rotary valves

There are a few different places you need to lubricate rotary valves:

The upper camp

The lower camp

In the rotor itself

The top and bottom bearings are easy to oil, and if you keep them well lubed, you don’t have to mess around with the inside much at all.

Oiling the upper and lower bearings

The upper bearing is the easiest and most obvious place to oil.

Just remove the cap and put a drop or two on top of the rotor bearing.

The lower camp is a bit more difficult to reach.

This bearing is why rotor oil comes with a needle tip (you can also buy needle tip bottles if your favorite oil doesn’t come in one). You want to get the oil where the stem goes into the valve body. It’s a little hard to see in this picture, but the small gap is what you’re aiming for.

The oil for the lower bearing flows exactly where the stem meets the valve body.

Don’t try to use a regular bottle of valve oil to get into that space. You’ll make quite a mess (and waste a lot of oil). Make sure you get the right tool and the job will be a lot easier!

For most horns, the top and bottom bearings should be oiled a few times a week. There is no “right” answer here, you’ll have to experiment. In general, however, it is better to oil a little too much than too little. I oil my horns about 2-3 times a week. Sometimes more so when played in hot conditions (outside in summer or under bright stage lights).

I’ll also make sure to oil them a little more than average if I need to put them down for more than a few days (which rarely happens). If you play your horn regularly, the moisture on your breath will help keep things lubricated, and if you leave the horn in the case for days or weeks (especially if it’s warm) this moisture can evaporate and the rotor can deteriorate get stuck more easily (especially if you haven’t brushed your teeth before playing).

Oiling inside the rotors

Once every week or two (or whenever the valves feel sluggish) you need to get oil on the inside of the rotors. For that there are different possibilities:

Method 1: Using the slides

The first way to do this is using the slides:

Pull out your first valve slide (if you have a double horn, pull out both first valve slides) and put 15-30 drops of oil on each slide. While carefully holding the rails upright, slide both back fully into the horn. Turn the horn so that the oil runs into the first valve. While rocking the horn back and forth, repeatedly squeeze the valves (including the trigger) to ensure the oil gets to all the rotors. After allowing the valves to move faster (you should be able to feel the difference), deflate the horn. Be careful as the oil is much more slippery than regular water.

NOTE: It is very important that you push the rails all the way in when replacing them. If you don’t, you could get lubricating grease in the valves, which will definitely slow them down.

Method 2: Using an eyedropper

The second way is a bit easier (in my opinion) but requires a dropper bottle. However, thanks to the magic of Amazon, eye dropper bottles are easy to find.

This method is very similar to the first method:

Remove the first two valve slides. Get some oil in the dropper. With the horn upright (empty sled legs pointing up), insert the dropper into the sled legs as far as it will go, and squirt the oil onto the rotor. Repeat for the other (F or Bb) glide leg. You can either do this one puff at a time, or put 2-3 “portions” in the first valve puffs and do the same rocking motion to redistribute the oil to other valves.

Each of these methods works well and is quick and easy to do once you do it a few times.

Remember that rotary valves are very different from piston valves and should not be removed unless you know what you are doing. Knowing how to work rotary valves is an incredibly useful (and potentially profitable) skill, but make sure you practice this on a scrap horn before attempting to work on your instrument (or anyone else’s).

Lubricant for french horns

Similar to the oils, you have a few different options for greasing your slides.

If you want to stick with Hetman products, they make a fairly wide range of lubes. Like valve oils, Hetman sliding lubricants are categorized by number.

#7 Slide Gel is for very tight fitting slides while #8 Slide Grease is a great general purpose lubricating grease for most instruments. If you have loose fitting rails and need a quick fix, the #9 or #10 are much thicker and can help seal a worn rail until you take it to a repair person.

If you play trumpet (or mellophone) and need something light for your first and third valve slides, Hetman also has a slide oil that works great. But it’s probably much too thin for Horn.

You have several options for mineral oil products.

For instrument-specific grease, Selmer’s Lubricating Grease was a good and inexpensive option, but it’s now harder to find. A lot of music stores sell lube in a stick-like tube, and I don’t care that much. In my experience it’s not easy to apply and can cause chunks to wind up in the valve slides or (worse) the valves themselves.

As I mentioned with valve oil, there are cheaper options that are not specifically designed for musical instruments. The most common are:

Similar to the oils, each of these pros and cons has to be considered.

In general, petroleum-based greases (petroleum jelly, bag balm) can be diluted with petroleum-based oils. This means you might need to reapply them more frequently, but if something does get into a valve, it’s relatively easy to wash out. Lanolin is also water washable so needs constant application but is easily cleaned from valves.

The gun grease and brake grease will likely last longer and be more resistant to grease and moisture, but if you apply too much and it gets into the valves, it can be a hassle to get it out.

How to grease your slides

As with oiling your rotors, there are a few ways to lubricate your chutes.

My preferred method is a bit messy but effective and quick. Simply put a small drop of lube on both legs of the slide and spread it evenly with your fingertip. Once you’ve spread it out on both sled legs, reinsert the sled fully into the horn.

If some extra grease comes out, that’s okay, just wipe it off with a rag or towel. You’ll probably want to move the slider all the way in and out a few times to make sure it moves smoothly, but you shouldn’t have any mess after the first insertion.

The second way is trying to keep your hands clean by avoiding the spread. Instead of putting a drop or two of grease on the slider, apply a thin ring of grease around the shank of the slider. The idea is that by applying grease to the tip of the slide, it will be evenly distributed as the slide is inserted. This doesn’t always work as well in practice as it does in theory, but it’s worth a try if you don’t want to get your hands dirty.

Usually this method requires you to apply a little more grease to the slide, which means you have a little more cleaning to do once the slide is fully inserted.

Cleaning mouthpipe/mouthpiece/horn

Regular cleaning of the leadpipe is one of the best ways to ensure that no bits of food or other debris get into the valve mechanism.

If you have a regular single or double horn, you can clean the lead pipe with a standard trumpet snake brush about once a month to keep the rest of your horn fairly clean.

Aside from a standard instrument snake, the other way to clean the mouthpipe is to use Herco Spitballs. These are small sponges soaked in a cleaning solution that can be shot through the mouthpipe to quickly remove dirt and grime. They don’t clean as well as a snake (in my experience), but they’re handy and a bit fun.

These also work better in some treble or triple horns that have a valve in the leadpipe. With these horns, it’s almost impossible to get a snake through the shuttle valve, and the spitballs can often make it easier.

How to clean the mouth pipe

Whether you use an instrument snake or spitballs to clean your leadpipe, the steps are basically the same:

Remove the leadpipe. This gives you a (relatively) convenient place to get the dirt out. Leaving the slide in pushes the mass deeper into the horn (and closer to the valves). Place a towel over the tubing where the tuning slide was. Sometimes the gunk can come out with a surprising amount of force, and it’s better to contain it than let it fly all over the room (or your horn). Insert the snake (or spitball) into the mouthpiece receptacle. With some horns you may not be able to insert the snake into the mouthpipe. If that’s the case, you can wriggle your way out of the tuning train receiver. Push the snake all the way through the mouth pipe. It may take a little effort, but if you’re in doubt about how much force to use, don’t be afraid to take it to a repair shop or ask your instructor. You don’t want to drill a hole in your leadpipe. When using spitballs, insert the sponge into the mouthpiece end of the mouthpipe, loosely drape a towel over the other end of the pipe, and blow hard! Remove the snake/spitball from the opposite end. Don’t pull the snake out too quickly, remember that the other end can still grab some dirt. Put a few drops of oil in the leadpipe to keep the inner surface clean and lubricated.

In addition to cleaning the leadpipe, you should also clean your mouthpiece. You can use either a standard tip brush or Q-tips. You should run a cotton swab or mouthpiece brush through your mouthpiece(s) every few days. The cleaner the mouthpiece, the less material collects in the leadpipe.

A word of caution if you’re using spitballs on a treble or triple horn with a valved leadpipe. Be careful not to move the mouthpipe valve while the spitball is in flight. It can be a tight fit through the valve under the best of circumstances, and if you get the spitball stuck halfway down the valve it can be a major pain to remove.

Cleaning the inside

Even if you follow all of the maintenance rules above (and especially if you don’t), it’s a good idea to bathe your horn every few months and have a professional cleaning every year or two. Trust me – going much longer than that will lead to some unpleasant discoveries once you’ve finally cleaned your horn!

The procedure for a horn bath is pretty simple – you don’t need much and you probably already have most of the stuff lying around the house. You need:

A bathtub

A bath towel (or something similar to put on the bottom of the tub to honk your horn)

Mild dish soap (no oxygen – I use regular Blue Dawn)

An instrument snake brush and a mouthpiece brush

Your usual oils and fats.

A rag (or more) to remove oil and grease and a towel (or more) to dry the horn.

The process is pretty simple – lay the bath towel on the bottom of the tub and start drawing a bath of lukewarm (not hot!) water. Squeeze in some soap as the tub fills.

Take your horn apart – remove all the slides and even the valve caps. Go ahead and use the rag to wipe the legs of the slides to remove excess grease/oil and place them all under the water on the towel. Remember where each foil goes (take photos when disassembling if you’re not sure)!

Once all the foils are out, place the body of the horn in the tub as well (on the towel). Operate the valves at least once to get the warm soapy water through the instrument. It wouldn’t be the worst idea to put the mouthpiece in the tub at the same time.

Taking one slide at a time, insert the snake into each leg and rinse the slide thoroughly with clean water (not the soapy bath water) and place the cleaned slide on a towel to dry.

Remember that the soap penetrates grease and oil, so while we need it to clean the horn, we don’t want it to be there when we reassemble the horn. Also, you won’t get the snake all the way through your slides – so don’t try. Insert it as far as you can and pull it out quickly (but not too hard!). Then run some clean water down the slide – you’ll wash out (most of) whatever you removed.

When all the foils are meandered, rinsed and set aside, continue on to the body of the horn. Do the same thing – feed out the leadpipe and main tuning slide legs, but do not insert the snake into the valve slide legs. You risk messing up the valves (or leaving a bit of snake brush stuck) if you snake these out, so it’s best not even to mess with them. Generally, the inside of the slides (that you’ve already cleaned) are a lot dirtier anyway, so it’s usually not worth the risk.

After weaving out all of the non-valved hoses, rinse the horn thoroughly inside and out with clean (warm, if possible) water. If you have a hand held shower this is easiest, but you can use the bath faucet or even a (clean) bucket or large cup in a pinch. Keep in mind that you want to get rid of all of the soap as it will cut through the grease and oil we use on the slides and valves. Also, rotate the horn several times (gently) to remove excess water and dry with a clean towel.

Once the horn is dry and free of soap residue, apply some Blue Juice (about 10 drops) to each glide leg directly on the rotor valve. We can do it this way since there shouldn’t be any fat on the inside sled legs (yet!). This keeps each rotor well lubricated. After that, you can follow the oiling and greasing guidelines at the top of this page.

Final Thoughts

If you have any questions about cleaning or basic maintenance, leave a comment below or contact me. Although there is no way to do an online repair (yet), I am happy to try to answer your questions.

If you found this information helpful, please consider making a small donation to support this site. While I’m happy to offer all of this information for free, maintaining this site takes time and money, and I thrive on caffeine, so a cup of coffee (or two) is greatly appreciated!

Service Details Price Estimate

Chem Rinse Cleaning Your instrument is hand cleaned and rinsed to ensure thorough cleaning. This process includes disassembling your instrument, thoroughly cleaning it inside and out, installing new corks, felts, strings and springs as needed, and cleaning slides and valves. Minor dent work is also included. A final check, playing test and wiping ensure the playability of your French horn. $80.00

Valve Repairs Includes removing dents in the valve body and rotor, straightening bent connections, lapping the rotor and/or body, and thoroughly cleaning the body and valve to ensure smooth valve movement. A final check, playing test and wiping ensure the playability of your French horn. $60.00 each. for rotors

Liberating Slides The slides are essential for daily maintenance as well as tuning the instrument. For stuck or frozen slides when chemical rinsing is not required or recommended. This includes removing all slides from the instrument, degreasing, thoroughly cleaning and lubricating all slides. A final check, playing test and wiping ensure the playability of your French horn. $45.00

Water key corks Replace all water key corks on the horn. $21.00

Water Key attachment or replacement of water key mechanism plus cork for horn. $35.00

Mouthpiece pull horns where the mouthpiece is pulled using a standard mouthpiece puller. Less than 10 minutes. For free

Mouthpiece Pull Horns, where the mouthpiece does not burst and the leadpipe needs to be heated or dipped. 15 mins + $20.00

Lacquer Streaks and Scratch Brush Finish We first remove all current lacquer from the horn, chemically clean the instrument and brush the finish for a uniform appearance. We can apply a thin coat of airbrush paint for an additional charge. A final adjustment, rehearsal and wipe will ensure your French horn is playable. $150.00

Consultation with technician required.

Other Work Any other specific work or issue not limited to soldering, repairing or replacing defective parts, dent removal, spare parts, instrument modifications, finishing, polishing or other cosmetic issues will be dealt with on an estimate basis only. Please make a note of what work is required and we will contact you with an estimate. Estimate only

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Custom work must be prepaid and is non-refundable/returnable. Custom orders will be processed as soon as scheduling permits and in the order in which they are received. We reserve the right to refuse any custom project. The prices below do not include shipping costs.

Customers wishing to arrange a personal consultation and die design must make an appointment via [email protected] or call 407-366-1991 to receive a quote for the work you need.

In-person consultation pricing starts at $100 per session, excluding mouthpiece and other fees.

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One-piece models

Trumpet / cornet / flugelhorn $345.00 French horn $345.00 Trombone $375.00 Tuba $400.00

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Two-part models

For custom pricing, there are two variants of the two-piece construction as shown below. Some variations are only available as a set, please call for more information.

Two-piece models – Variant #1

This is the screw-on rim and cup stem design. A French horn is shown here, and the same construction would apply to the other instruments.

Screw-on rim Trumpet / Cornet / Flugelhorn $175.00 French Horn $225.00 $225.00 Trombone $225.00 $250.00 Tuba $250.00 $275.00

Two-part models – variation #2

This is Warburton’s traditional two-piece design. In this case we offer custom tops that bolt onto any of our standard Warburton backbores.

Top Trumpet/Cornet/Flugelhorn $200.00 French Horn N/A Trombone $235.00 Tuba $250.00

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Three-part models

Three-piece models consist of a standard backbore, cup section, the

Bolts onto the backbore and the rim that bolts onto the cup. Some variations are only available as a set, please call for more information.

Rim Cup Backbore (Standard) Trumpet / Cornet / Flugelhorn $175.00 $175.00 $80.00 Trombone $225.00 $225.00 $80.00 Tuba $250.00 $250.00 $100.00

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Threading Fees and Changes

Thread Top for Backbore $100.00 Thread Backbore for Top $100.00 Thread Rim for Cup $100.00 Thread Cup for Rim $100.00 Alter Throat $15.00 Hand Alter Rim/Cup with Replate $50.00 Backbore Pattern for sleeves $65.00

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Bending the mouthpiece

Some players like a curve in their mouthpiece. Our fee for this is $30 and we can bend most parts up to 15 degrees.

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Rework and recoating

Versilberung Vergoldung Trompete / Kornett / Flügelhorn einteilig $50.00 $120.00 Posaune einteilig $60.00 $170.00 Tuba einteilig $70.00 $175.00 Saxophonmundstück $50.00 $120.00 Trompetendecke $30.00 $90.00 Trompete/Posaune Backbore $20.00 $70.00 Posaunendecke Vergoldung * $ 55,00 Vergoldung des oberen Randes und des inneren Kessels der Posaune * $ 65 .00 One Piece Trumpet Rim and Inner Cup Gold Plating* $55.00 One Piece Trombone Rim and Inner Cup Gold Plating* $65.00 Tuba Rim and Cup Gold Plating* $75.00 Trumpet, Cornet, French Horn Rim Only Gold Plating* * $35.00 Trombone Rim Only Gold Plating ** $45.00 Tuba Rim Only Gold Plating ** $55.00

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*Prices are for new or like-new mouthpieces. Mouthpieces that require additional repair and silvering will be graded upon arrival.

** Rim only coating available for threaded rims only.

Keep your horn clean and you’ll never have a problem with sticky valves or slides. Keeping it clean on the inside will also remove any bacteria that can build up in the tubing.

Wipe daily

You should wipe down your trumpet with the Ultra-Pure Microfiber Polishing Cloth at the end of each day. Gently wipe all surfaces, especially where you are holding the horn. Wipe away any water stains. The microfiber cloth absorbs oils and grease and should be washed once a month. If you have a silver plated trumpet, you can use a silver polishing cloth about once a week to remove tarnish. Only use it to wipe the outside of the instrument.

Wipe down the outside of the horn daily to remove fingerprints, water stains and oils.

bath time

You should bathe your trumpet every month or two to keep it in top condition. It only takes about 30 minutes to do a good job.

Carefully pull out the main tuning slide and the three valve slides. Wipe off grease on slides with a paper towel. Remove the lower valve caps. If they’re stuck, try a rubber jar opener, not pliers. Also wipe the lower valve caps with the paper towel. Then remove the three valves. They are numbered 1, 2 and 3. When you pull the valves out, check which way the number is pointing, the mouthpiece or the bell end. When you put the valves back in, they point in the same direction.

Place a rubber mat or towel in a tub or large sink and fill with lukewarm water. Add some lemon-scented dishwashing liquid (about a tablespoon is enough). Gently submerge the trumpet, slides, lower valve caps and your mouthpiece. Put some soapy water in a glass and submerge the valves, keeping the felts dry. Let everything soak for 10 minutes or more.

Take the trumpet apart and soak it in lukewarm (not hot) soapy water.

Soak the valves in soapy water while keeping the felts dry.

Pass the snake through the mouthpipe and all the pipes of the trumpet body several times. Run it down the bell and around the back bend. Use the snake to clean the inside of the tuning slide and valve slides. Do not force the snake if it does not bend easily around the hose.

Use the flexible snake brush to clean all inner tubes.

Scrub the top and bottom of the valve bodies with the valve body brush. Thoroughly clean the lower valve caps to remove any residue. Finally, clean the mouthpiece with the mouthpiece brush. Empty the tub or sink and rinse all parts thoroughly. Let them dry on a towel.

Scrub the valve bodies with the cylindrical brush.

Scrub the mouthpiece with the tapered brush.

Clean the valves

Gently clean the valve ports with soapy water using the snake brush or valve body brush. Scrub the valve surface with soapy water using the valve body brush or an old toothbrush. Be careful not to scratch the valve surface. Wash the valves with plenty of clean water and let them dry on a towel.

Lubricate slide rails

Put a small amount of Ultra-Pure Regular Tuning Slide Lube on your finger and rub onto the slide. Insert the slide fully and wipe off any excess lube with a paper towel. If you’re used to rapidly moving the first and third valve slides for more accurate tuning, consider using Ultra-Pure Light Tuning Slide Lube on those slides. Also rub a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads of the upper and lower valve bodies. Slides should be lubricated about once or twice a week.

Rub a small amount of tuning slide grease onto each slide and reinsert into the horn. Wipe off excess grease with a paper towel.

Oil valves

Hold the valve over a sink, cloth, or newspaper and coat liberally with Ultra-Pure Professional Valve Oil. Carefully put it back into the housing, making sure the valve snaps into place and is pointing in the right direction. When replacing the valve in its housing, do not turn it as this can cause excessive wear. Screw the lower valve caps back on. After the valves are in, try blowing some air into the leadpipe while moving the pistons. If the air stops, you probably installed one or more valves the wrong way round.

Drip valve oil liberally on the valve surface to lubricate it.

Reapply the valve oil every day or two

You should oil your valves every day or two. Simply unscrew the valve and pull it up and out of the housing. Coat the valve with oil and carefully reinsert it into the body.

Treat your instrument with care

Be gentle with your instrument. It is easily dented and dents make the instrument difficult to play or can cause valves or slides to stick. Keep the horn in your hands, on your lap, or in its case. Not on the bed, a chair, or the floor. If the instrument is dented or your mouthpiece is sticking, take it to a music store to have it professionally repaired.

#trumpet #valve oil #grease #trumpet bath #instrument care #music

The horn is a versatile instrument capable of producing beautiful, velvety tones while also taking on the role of strong and exciting musical characters. Yet we often find it difficult to hear the horns clearly amidst all the sounds coming from the band or orchestra. Buglers face some unique challenges that make it difficult to project.

These include the direction of the bell (pointing away from the listener) and the hand placed in the bell where the sound comes out. There are also additional challenges related to the nature of the instrument due to its design. Regardless, the subject of projection can quickly become frustrating for both directors and players. Fortunately, there are ways to overcome this and help your brass section project better!

hand position

The placement and position of the hand in the bell plays an important role in the sound of the instrument. Addressing hand position is probably the quickest and easiest way to help your horn section project more. This also improves the overall clarity of the sound. As a bonus, it doesn’t require much hands-on practice from students – just a little experimentation – and you’ll (hopefully) hear the difference right away!

Straighter tends to be better

Sometimes young horn players have a “woofy” or muted sound. A common cause is that their hand is covering the bell too much. For this reason I encourage buglers to use a straight(er) hand position with little or no hand cupping.

Try this: Have the student extend their right hand as if to shake hands. Then have them bring the thumb to the lower knuckle of the index finger. The hand should basically be straight and look something like this:

placement and positioning

Believe it or not, the positioning/placement of the hand in the bell makes a difference in the sound. This can be a “hot topic” in the horn world, but I think it’s safe to say that we want the hand to deviate from the sound as much as possible. This creates more clarity, resonance and projection.

Once the student has the correct hand shape, have the student place their hand along the right or bottom side of the bell until the bottom knuckle of the thumb (or first knuckle for students with larger hands) touches the bell.

The backs of your fingers should ALWAYS touch the metal of the bell. This ensures that there is a seal inside the bell, making the opening of the bell essentially smaller, and keeps the hand “open” and out of the way of the bell opening. This allows for better projection.

This may require some wrist flexing to keep the arm in a more comfortable position while using a straight/open hand position.

Volume – mindset and perspective

Horn players almost always have to play louder than they deem appropriate for the printed dynamics. This was one of the hardest concepts for me to grasp as a younger player! Since I could usually hear myself fairly well within the ensemble, I felt I was playing at a reasonable volume. It wasn’t until I was playing in an orchestral horn group with one of my teachers that I became aware of this reality.

Six horns were lined up and I was right behind my teacher’s bell. The first entry for the horns is marked in fortissimo and in unison. My first reaction was that my teacher and the players in front of me played much louder than I thought ff. However, when listening to a recording I was shocked to realize that the volume was perfect at that moment – and it was EPIC! This really helped me understand the perspective/mindset horn players should have when it comes to loudness.

That being said, here are some ways you can help your students with this concept.

Basic mindset

Play one dynamic step louder than printed. Horn players must be comfortable playing louder than they feel is necessary! This will vary depending on the musical situation, but is a good starting point to establish the mindset and perspective that horn players should have regarding loudness.

Tip: I always tell students to make a goal of getting “the hand” while exploring this aspect of play. It’s a lot easier to retreat when you’ve gone too far, so this is a “good problem” for them!

establish perspective

Have the horns play a passage alone during the rehearsal. Invite the rest of the band to listen. Ask each horn player to tell you what dynamics they think they used. Then have 2 or 3 players in different sections/areas of the band say what dynamic level they think the horns were playing at.

You can choose one student to sit near the bell side (preferably behind or to the right of the bells), one to sit to the left of the bells, and maybe one to sit in front of them.

Finally, provide your perspective from the podium. Not only does this help your horn players understand volume/loudness relativity from their perspective, but it also informs the brass section players. That way, once your brass section “steps up a gear”, those standing to the bell side/right of you won’t (hopefully) be swayed into playing louder than they were, resulting in better balance.

Actually play louder

Unfortunately, loud gaming often goes hand in hand with bad gaming habits. We all grow up hearing things like “use a lot of air,” “push the air,” “squeeze/use the core muscles,” or “support the air.” However, if we try without really understanding what we need to do, it creates tension in the body and misuse of air, causing us to work too hard for an undesirable sound. For these reasons, playing loud can be a tricky business.

In order to learn to play louder properly and simply, students need to be much more aware of HOW they are using their air and body. At the most basic level, it boils down to good/efficient air and body use. Playing loud is all about figuring out how to use the right blow pressure without over-manipulating the body. This requires a correct approach, being careful not to put undue pressure on the mouthpiece and keeping the body as relaxed as possible.

Believe it or not, this isn’t supposed to be super difficult! It’s important to remind your students of all of these elements as they work to improve this aspect of play. While there are many ways to teach students to play louder, the following are some of my favorite exercises.

exercises

1. Blowing Against Resistance – Resistance/back pressure from the instrument often creates tension in the body and “pinches” or restricts air. This aerial exercise can help the student play as relaxed as possible.

2. “Blastissimos” – “Want to play loud? Practice playing loud!” Here I incorporate Exercise #4 from Joseph Singer’s book, Embouchure Building for French Horn.

3. “Balloon Swells” – This helps in gaining/improving dynamic control.

These are some of the strategies I have found helpful and effective when dealing with projection. Hope they are helpful for your students too!

Originally from Bayamón, Puerto Rico, Juan Berrios enjoys performing with a variety of musical ensembles, from symphony and jazz orchestras to British-style marching bands. He is also a passionate educator and loves working with students of all ages, levels and musical environments.

As a member of the Dallas Brass, Juan performs hundreds of concerts and educational events across the country each year. He studied music education and performance at the University of Central Florida, attended the Music Academy of the West and the Aspen Music Festival and School and is a Hans Hoyer Performing Artist.

When oiling French horn valves, did you know that to properly oil a horn valve you need to apply oil in three places? If you haven’t, I’ll tell you where these three locations are.

The rotor valve has three sides: the top, the back and the inside. All three parts need to be oiled to ensure fast and smooth action. If the student doesn’t perform this simple maintenance, their valves will become slow and sticky, making good clean technique impossible. Well-oiled valves also protect against acid erosion from saliva and extend the life of an instrument.

Top of the Valve – Each time the instrument is played.

The first place to oil is the top of the rotor valve. Remove the valve caps. If you push the valve lever down, you can see the rotor turning. Put a drop of oil in the center of the valves. (Photo A.) ​​Reinstall the valve caps and gently tighten. On older horns and certain brands of newer horns, if the valve cap is screwed on too tightly, it can jam the top of the spinning rotor (meaning the valve either won’t spin or spins slowly). In this case, loosen the valve cap slightly to fix the problem.

If you cannot unscrew the valve cap with your fingers, cover the valve cap with a soft rag and carefully unscrew it with pliers. You can even use a drop or two of lube. Be sure to wipe off excess spray to prevent damage to the paintwork.

You may notice the two tiny notches in the rotor post and a notch on the stationary valve plate. These are valve alignment marks. The rotor should line up directly with the notch on the stationary valve plate when the valve lever is pushed both up and down. If the alignment is not exact, the valve is not fully open or closed and airflow through the instrument will be affected. This affects the intonation, sound quality and playability of the instrument. Incorrect size or missing bumpers will result in misalignment and incorrect string tension.

Back of the valve – Every time the instrument is played

On the back of the valve is a fixed plate that covers the inside of the rotor. The rotor post spins or rotates as you push the valve lever up and down. There is a small gap or seam between the stationary valve plate and the rotating rotor post. (Photo B.) Put a drop of oil in the seam. (Photo C)

Inside – Monthly or as needed

There are two schools of thought on how to oil the inside of the valve. One thought that is my preferred route is to remove a valve spool; Pour the oil into the inner valve spool (Photo C.) Replace the spool; Push the slider all the way in; Then turn the horn so the oil runs down the inner slide into the rotor valve. (Photo D.) Remember gravity. Beginners usually don’t notice this on their own! Push the valve lever up and down so the oil covers the entire rotor. Put the slider back in the correct tuning position. I prefer this method because it prevents the oil from picking up residual lubricating grease and pulling it into the rotor. The other line of thinking is to remove the valve spool and pour the oil directly into the outer spool. Follow the same sequence as the first procedure, just change where you pour the oil.

Since I oil my valves top and bottom every game, I only oil the inside once a month after the horn has been bathed, when my valves are really dry, or when my valves are stiff and gummed up.

Oiling the valves in all three places is very important on horns that have not been played for a few months or over the summer holidays. The oil evaporates over time and can cause the valves to “click” extremely or even get stuck and become immobile. Make sure you check all valve functions before handing out a horn, especially to a beginner. It is extremely frustrating for them and ultimately for you to have a horn that is not working properly.

types of oil

There are many different types of oil. I use valve oil, which is a thinner oil, instead of a heavier rotor oil. Older horn valves can be more “chattering” and would benefit from heavier rotor oil on the top and back, but be sure to use valve oil on the inside. Remember that valve oil actually protects the inside of the rotor from corrosion caused by saliva.

If you and your students follow these simple steps to lubricate the valves every time you play, you’ll extend the life of the instrument. Another plus would be that your horn players might even have better technique!

Becky Casso is a passionate music educator. Her teaching career began in the band hall, leading bands in the Borger, Klein, and Canyon school districts. She is a sought-after horn teacher and has taught masterclasses and workshops at Amarillo ISD, Canyon ISD, and West Texas A&M. She performs with Chamber Music Amarillo, Amarillo Symphony, Amarillo Opera and with other chamber music groups in Amarillo. Becky was named Canyon ISD Teacher of the Year, Region 16 Texas Teacher of the Year and received the University of Texas Exes Association Teaching Excellence Award.

If you would like a free guide for your students with French horn care tips, click here…

Related reading:

Helpful Tips for Horn (Part 1) – How to string a French horn valve

Using Sound Concepts in Teaching Brass Instruments

Avoid the most common pitfall – VOLTAGE!

Diagnose sheet metal stress and help students achieve better sound

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Custom work must be prepaid and is non-refundable/returnable. Custom orders will be processed as soon as scheduling permits and in the order in which they are received. We reserve the right to refuse any custom project. The prices below do not include shipping costs.

Customers wishing to arrange a personal consultation and die design must make an appointment via [email protected] or call 407-366-1991 to receive a quote for the work you need.

In-person consultation pricing starts at $100 per session, excluding mouthpiece and other fees.

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One-piece models

Trumpet / cornet / flugelhorn $345.00 French horn $345.00 Trombone $375.00 Tuba $400.00

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Two-part models

For custom pricing, there are two variants of the two-piece construction as shown below. Some variations are only available as a set, please call for more information.

Two-piece models – Variant #1

This is the screw-on rim and cup stem design. A French horn is shown here, and the same construction would apply to the other instruments.

Screw-on rim Trumpet / Cornet / Flugelhorn $175.00 French Horn $225.00 $225.00 Trombone $225.00 $250.00 Tuba $250.00 $275.00

Two-part models – variation #2

This is Warburton’s traditional two-piece design. In this case we offer custom tops that bolt onto any of our standard Warburton backbores.

Top Trumpet/Cornet/Flugelhorn $200.00 French Horn N/A Trombone $235.00 Tuba $250.00

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Three-part models

Three-piece models consist of a standard backbore, cup section, the

Bolts onto the backbore and the rim that bolts onto the cup. Some variations are only available as a set, please call for more information.

Rim Cup Backbore (Standard) Trumpet / Cornet / Flugelhorn $175.00 $175.00 $80.00 Trombone $225.00 $225.00 $80.00 Tuba $250.00 $250.00 $100.00

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Threading Fees and Changes

Thread Top for Backbore $100.00 Thread Backbore for Top $100.00 Thread Rim for Cup $100.00 Thread Cup for Rim $100.00 Alter Throat $15.00 Hand Alter Rim/Cup with Replate $50.00 Backbore Pattern for sleeves $65.00

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Bending the mouthpiece

Some players like a curve in their mouthpiece. Our fee for this is $30 and we can bend most parts up to 15 degrees.

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Rework and recoating

Versilberung Vergoldung Trompete / Kornett / Flügelhorn einteilig $50.00 $120.00 Posaune einteilig $60.00 $170.00 Tuba einteilig $70.00 $175.00 Saxophonmundstück $50.00 $120.00 Trompetendecke $30.00 $90.00 Trompete/Posaune Backbore $20.00 $70.00 Posaunendecke Vergoldung * $ 55,00 Vergoldung des oberen Randes und des inneren Kessels der Posaune * $ 65 .00 One Piece Trumpet Rim and Inner Cup Gold Plating* $55.00 One Piece Trombone Rim and Inner Cup Gold Plating* $65.00 Tuba Rim and Cup Gold Plating* $75.00 Trumpet, Cornet, French Horn Rim Only Gold Plating* * $35.00 Trombone Rim Only Gold Plating ** $45.00 Tuba Rim Only Gold Plating ** $55.00

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*Prices are for new or like-new mouthpieces. Mouthpieces that require additional repair and silvering will be graded upon arrival.

** Rim only coating available for threaded rims only.

Playing the horn should be a pleasant experience for all horn players. But if it’s not cleaned properly, it can be disheartening and make you not want to pick it up. After all, a clean instrument is a happy instrument and therefore makes a happy musician. Learning how to care for and clean your horn is an essential part of being a horn player because it reflects how you play, your morale and your health.

In this post, we will show you how to clean a french horn in our step-by-step guide. Let’s get in.

What you need for cleaning

Cleaning the horn is easy and inexpensive, and you will most likely already have some of the items lying around the house.

However, to clean your horn you will need some specific tools which we have listed below:

Two soft bath towels, soft rags and a polishing cloth

mouthpiece brush

Clean snake brush

valve oil

lubricating grease

bathtub (or large basin)

You can purchase each of these cleaning supplies separately, or you can purchase a French horn cleaning kit like the one below.

Instructions for cleaning French horns

Here are the step-by-step instructions you need to properly clean your French horn.

1. Prepare your space

The first step is to prepare to clean your French horn.

Take your two bath towels and place one on the floor of your bathtub or sink and the other next to the bathtub.

They should be fairly large to cover the entire bottom of the tub and be able to rest the horn, all slides, and the mouthpiece on top after bathing.

After you line the tub with the towel and get everything else ready, it’s time to fill it with lukewarm water.

It is important NOT to use hot water as this can damage the horn.

Make sure there is enough water in the tub to completely cover the instrument.

2. Take your horn apart

After preparing your bath, carefully remove all rails of the horn and mouthpiece when the mouthpiece is in the instrument.

Removal also includes the valve caps and bell if the horn has a removable bell.

However, DO NOT disassemble the rotary valves as you should allow an instrument technician to disassemble the rotary valves.

3. Put your horn in the bath

Carefully place your french horn, slides, valve caps and mouthpiece in the tub.

Once it’s fully submerged, push all the valves down a few times and let it soak for an hour.

For stuck valves or an instrument that hasn’t been bathed for a long time, you can soak for up to three hours.

4. Use the brushes

The next step is to clean your horn with all the brushes.

These brushes are tools for cleaning the mouthpiece and other parts of your horn, such as the lead pipe, tuning slides, and other tubing.

If you don’t have access to a french horn mouthpiece brush, using a cotton swab will work.

Take the cleaning snake brush and clean all the slides, other tubing and the leadpipe of your horn.

However, be careful not to force the snake brush through the rails or other tubing as this may damage the horn.

If you are having trouble cleaning, you can try using a trumpet or clarinet snake brush as this can help remove these parts.

After you’ve cleaned the slides and hoses, it’s time to clean the mouthpiece with the mouthpiece brush.

If you don’t have a mouthpiece brush, you can also use something like a cotton swab.

5. Take everything out of the water

Once it’s been well soaked and cleaned, it’s time to get it all out.

Remove the mouthpiece, slides, valve caps, and horn from the bathtub and place them on a dry, soft towel.

Make sure all the water in the horn and slides is completely drained by tilting them.

Depressing the valves and tilting the horn 360 degrees can help get extra water out.

6. Dry everything

After removing the water from the instrument, you should use soft, dry rags to dry the surface of your horn, slides, mouthpiece, and valve caps until completely dry.

Allow to air dry for a few hours, then tilt the horn one final time to remove excess water.

7. Use some valve oil

The use of valve oil keeps the valves in good working condition and helps prevent corrosion.

Once it’s completely dry you can take some valve oil and pour a little down the slide to each valve in turn.

You can also move the valves to make sure they are evenly coated with the oil.

Be sure to use valve oil that is suitable for instruments with rotors.

I personally like the multi-purpose valve oils like Fat Cat highly refined petroleum oil, or oils like Blue Juice or Al Cass are all good options.

8. Apply lubricating grease

As with the valves, the slides also need a lubricant to work well.

Slide greases for brass instruments are usually the first choice for many horn players.

Lanolin, which is often used by breastfeeding moms, is another inexpensive option, and a single tube will last, or you can get a custom one like this:

Sale 438 Reviews Superslick Slide Grease

Small container that easily fits in any suitcase

Ideal for all skill levels

Lightly coat each slide with slide grease or lanolin and insert each slide into the horn one at a time, beginning with the valve slides and ending with the tuning slides.

9. Oil the rotary valves

Lubricate rotary valves and bearings with rotary valve oil.

When you are finished applying the valve oil, screw the valve caps back on.

10. Apply valve oil to the guide tube

Put a few drops of valve oil in the lead tube and rotate the horn to allow it to reach other areas of the horn.

The oil helps prevent corrosion.

11. Blow through the horn

Finally, you can blow through the horn to detect extra water or oil.

If there is residual water, empty it by tilting it 360 degrees again if necessary.

Why do you need to clean your french horn?

As with other brass instruments, French horns create condensation inside the instrument due to the player’s embouchure and airflow.

Although draining the horn of its condensation through a spit valve and removing and inserting slides is often done and recommended when hearing its gurgling, food particles, bacteria, fungi, mold and other debris remain in the instrument.

Over time, this accumulation will have adverse effects on the horn and your health.

Adverse effects of not cleaning a horn regularly include:

A less desirable sound

The build-up of bacteria, mold, food debris and other debris impedes the airflow needed for full tone and tone from your horn.

This air resistance also affects the intonation of the instrument.

The valves and slides react less quickly

Failure to properly clean the valves on your French horn can cause them to become sluggish over time due to the build up of old oil and other particles while making the slides harder to move.

The horn becomes clouded

A product of a chemical reaction between a metal, in this case the French horn, and a non-metallic compound, the player’s breath and condensation, tarnish is a thin layer of corrosion that develops over time without proper care of the instrument.

This metal sulfide reaction results in a darkening or sometimes even green effect on the outer surface of the horn.

The instrument becomes unplayable

The accumulation of dirt and the corrosion that results from lack of care will render the horn unplayable over time, thus shortening its lifespan.

Adverse Health Conditions

Musicians who don’t clean their horns regularly are at greater risk of contracting serious respiratory illnesses such as pneumonia, flu, and in the possible case of some shared or school instruments, COVID-19.

All the negative effects of an unclean horn are easily avoidable with regular cleaning.

How Often Should You Clean a French Horn?

Along with practicing and learning music, cleaning and caring for your horn is an essential part of the musician’s life.

Here is a recommended cleaning and maintenance schedule for the horn:

Daily:

Oil the valves and drain condensation if necessary. After playing, wipe the outside of the horn with a polishing cloth to remove fingerprints.

Weekly:

Clean the mouthpiece separately from the instrument with a mouthpiece brush.

Lubricate slide rails if necessary.

Monthly:

Give the horn a full bath by following the instructions in this article.

Check the valve strings and valve buffers to determine if they need to be replaced.

Replace valve strings and buffers as necessary.

Yearly:

Take the horn to a repair professional for a professional dry cleaning, re-stringing, and other minor repairs.

The Dos and Don’ts of French Horn Maintenance and Care:

A clean and well cared for instrument gives a horn player many years of pleasure.

Here’s a quick summary of some do’s and don’ts in French horn care and maintenance to ensure those happy years:

Do:

Have a daily, weekly, monthly and yearly maintenance and care schedule; stick with it

If you eat or drink anything other than water before playing, be sure to brush and floss your teeth after eating

Drinking water is appropriate when playing the horn

When deflating the horn in a spool valve, be sure to depress the lever while removing the spool

Place the mouthpiece in the horn, gently insert it into the leadpipe and twist gently

Put your horn in a safe place, e.g. B. on a suitable French horn stand or case when not playing

After playing, deflate the horn before putting it away

Make sure you have a sturdy horn case and that it is always attached when closed

If you have the flu or other respiratory illness, give the horn a full bath soon after recovery

When you fly, have the horn in your carry-on baggage or in a designated check-in area (some planes have a dedicated compartment for strollers and other items).

Not:

Do not eat or chew gum while playing, or brush or floss after eating before playing

Do not hold the horn by the leadpipe or hold it so that it dangles (this increases the likelihood of accidentally damaging your instrument).

Do not keep anything loose in your horn case or on the instrument.

Do not use soap bars, pumice stones, or abrasive cleaners when cleaning the French horn.

Do not use hot or ice cold water while bathing your horn.

Do not let other people, especially untrained people, play your instrument.

Don’t wait too long or avoid cleaning your horn.

French horn cleaning summary

We hope this helps you understand how to maintain and clean your horn.

Remember that a clean and well cared for horn is the key to good, stress free performances, rehearsals and practice.

It also adds to your enjoyment and keeps you healthy.

A clean horn is a happy horn and therefore makes a happy and healthy horn player.