How To Make A Cross Stitch Clock? The 80 Top Answers

Watch conservation and restoration refers to the care of the physical and functional aspects of timepieces with “moving hands on a dial”, excluding clocks.[1] Watch care involves regulating the external environment, cleaning, winding, lubricating, pest control, and repairing or replacing mechanical and aesthetic components[2] to maintain or achieve the desired condition as determined by the owner. Watches are typically composed of multiple types of materials such as wood, metal, paint, plastic, etc.[3] [circle ref.] that exhibit unique behaviors and interactions with the environment, making treatment options complex. The materials used and the complexity of the movement justify the completion of the work by a watch conservator.[2]

Preservation of the old town hall clock in Prague, CZ

Conservation and restoration[edit]

If watch problems arise, interventional measures can be taken by trained restorers, with treatment varying depending on the type of watch and the situation.

Oldest sundial in the world from the Egyptian Valley of the Kings (ca. 1500 BC). University of Basel – Valley of the Kings, Egypt

History of watch preservation[ edit ]

The history of watch preservation goes back to ancient times. Horology, the study of timekeeping, dates back to 1450 BC. “when the ancient Egyptians first observed the earth’s natural circadian rhythms (Meadows, C., (undated).[4]”. Some examples of time-keeping instruments are : clocks, wristwatches, sundials, Hourglasses, Timekeepers and Atomic Clocks Watch preservation is the science and art of preserving timepieces to connect humanity to the history and heritage of timepieces.

Restorers[edit]

A restorer who specializes in the care of clocks has the qualifications and training to treat a clock properly, with the wherewithal “[…] not to completely jeopardize the historical value of the object […] .].”[5] A system of pre-treatment examination, documentation, and research that conservators can rely on to ensure proper treatment occurs, as “sometimes the only way to know the detailed history, quirks, and specific eccentricities of a particular watch understanding is to study them in order to learn as much information from them as possible […].”[6] Aside from locating clock problems and caring for a clock in distress, conservators can also gain knowledge of procedures how to pass watch winding to ill-informed watch owners so that future watch damage caused by human error can be avoided.

Conservators are advised to exercise restraint when restoring objects for ethical reasons and only make necessary repairs, rather than altering the appearance of objects such as clocks for aesthetic reasons.[7] An exception to this dilemma is conservation, which is undertaken to correct previous treatments that have proven to be dishonest or ill-considered efforts that have removed an object further from its original form.[8]

Preventive conservation[ edit ]

Preventative conservation includes proper handling, creating and maintaining suitable storage and display environments, and regular maintenance to prevent problems and affect a watch’s sustainability. Such checks can extend the life of a watch.

Proper handling[edit]

Handling is a potential major source of damage to any cultural heritage. Any handling of an object should be planned in advance and requires some precautions. Certain measures taken by a watchmaker can prevent the possibility of damage.

Pendulum removed from clockwork.

Work areas should be clean and arranged in a way that supports the security of the watch: tidy, free from bumps, jolts or unnecessary movement of the watch, and protected from theft.

Wearing “[…] cotton or nitrile gloves when handling the metal parts of the watch”[2] may limit the chances of transferring contaminants from hands to watch surfaces.

Loose items such as jewelry and loose clothing such as scarves or heavy jackets worn by a handler can potentially come in contact with and damage a watch. Removing these items before handling the watch can reduce the risk of damage.

Damage to the pendulum during clock movement can be prevented by either removing the pendulum or securing it with a latch or padding inside the clock before clock movement.[2] This can also prevent damage to other interior components.

When moving or handling a “weight-driven clock, it is advisable to wait until the clock has run down before moving it. When it stops running, carefully remove the weights and pendulum”.[2]

A watch “[…] should always be taken at its most stable point”[2] and moved from one place to another on its back.

Correlating a watch’s size with the number of people moving it can ensure the safety of the watch. A small mantel clock, for example, may only need one transporter, while a large clock may require multiple transporters to safely carry it to another location.

Proper storage and presentation[ edit ]

19th C Tiffany grandfather clock Photo donated by the Met 192934

Proper storage and display mechanisms can help ensure the safety of a watch. For safety and mechanical reasons, restorers securely fasten grandfather clocks and wall clocks to the wall to prevent accidents and ensure the proper functioning of the clock area. Using a solid, sturdy surface when storing or displaying a watch can prevent it from falling onto a hard surface. A wall clock, for example, needs to be securely attached “[…] to the wall if accidents are to be avoided and clocks are to run flawlessly.”[9] Clock cases, which come in many different materials, require special consideration and treatment by restorers also advise against exposing a watch to any heat source, including strong sunlight or a mantel over a lighted fire, as this may damage the watch cases and movements.[9]

Motion-sensitive lighting and the use of non-direct light sources can limit the amount of light and heat a watch can withstand, both of which are causes of watch damage. A clean watch environment can eliminate the possibility of hazardous contaminants coming into contact with a watch. An HVAC system can add an extra level of safety by removing such contaminants from the air.

Proper humidity and temperature readings[ edit ]

The humidity and temperature of the environment in which a watch is displayed or stored can affect the condition of the watch. Damage can be avoided by maintaining certain levels of humidity and temperature around the watch, depending on the materials the watch is made of.

a. Wood Watches The ideal humidity and temperature ranges for wood-cased watches vary with the season. In summer, an environment with a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and 40% to 60% relative humidity is suitable.[2] In winter, an environment with a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit and 35% to 50% relative humidity is optimal.[2]

b. Metal watches Watches with a metal case work well in an environment with a temperature of 20 degrees Fahrenheit and a relative humidity of 30%.[2]

The mechanics in a watch

Running clocks vs static display[edit]

Clocks can be simple display objects when they don’t need to be running. This reduces the physical force on the watch. While “the operation of a functional object leads to wear and tear and handling, which contributes to the deterioration of the parts. Replacing the inner workings of a watch still requires handling that could potentially damage the watch. It’s important to note that preserving a non-functional watch is much less invasive (cheaper!) and preemptively protecting it from corrosion and environmental hazards is the primary concern for its stabilization and care.[viii] Perhaps the least invasive solution to a To emphasize a working watch would be to buy a replica watch and keep the original safe.”[10] Running watches also need to be wound, which increases wear on the gears and makes the item easier to handle.[10]

Regular clock maintenance[ edit ]

Regular maintenance of a watch can ensure its long-term preservation. Conservation experts advise having watches serviced regularly. A watch is a complex mechanical device made from a variety of materials and with many small moving parts.[11] Lubricants age even under perfect conditions. Watches should be checked and relubricated every three years. After five years, and in any case no longer than eight years, it is recommended that the entire movement be disassembled and “cleaned” if excessive wear and expensive maintenance is to be avoided.[9]

Visual inspection can determine if a watch should be cleaned and/or lubricated, if there is any sign of infestation and/or damage, and if a watch should be wound and/or timed.

Regular maintenance also applies to the watch’s surroundings to ensure the right storage conditions are in place.

a. Cleaning, Polishing and Lubricating Regular dusting of the watch surface can negate the possibility of corrosion or abrasion due to dust build-up. It should be noted that such surface cleaning can also result in a loss of information about a watch’s history, as “[…] various deposits of ‘dirt’ or ‘salt’ can provide valuable clues to items of the past [. ..] .”[5] Loss of clock function due to wear and tear of the clockwork can be avoided by regular cleaning, polishing and lubricating of the clockwork by a trained professional. When performing such service, a professional will disassemble the movement so it can be thoroughly examined “[…] for worn or broken parts, fatigued springs, and accumulations of dirt or oil.”[2]

Cleaning clocks consist of several steps, all of which may or may not be performed as part of a treatment plan: washing, sonicating, rinsing, drying, polishing, finishing, chalk brushing, and staking.[12] Should cleaning be the only treatment applied at this point, the parts could be reassembled with the right lubrication;[13] however, depending on the type of watch, the parts could also be primed for further treatments on the various parts such as mechanisms, frames, Gear trains, pivots, mainsprings, screws and threads, escapements, coil springs, pendulums, etc.[14]

Ruhla alarm clock. Image rights are with Maksym Kozlenko.

b. Winding and setting In order to function as a timekeeper and to avoid damage to the movement, watches must be wound regularly. An established winding schedule eliminates the risk of overwinding.” Traditionally, the task of winding watches was entrusted to a watchmaker or a trained person. Winding had to be done at specific times of the day, ideally when the temperature was just right and the room empty. Each watch had its own unique keys, doors, and intricacies within the mechanisms.”[10] Regular winding can also ensure that the movement is still working. When setting the correct time, the minute hand is turned clockwise to the desired time.

When setting a watch by the hand, manually moving the hour or second hand instead of the minute hand to set the time can be detrimental, as can turning the hand counterclockwise.[9] Advancing the minute hand of a watch by several hours when setting the time can also damage the movement. For this reason: “Instead of advancing the hands several hours, it is better to stop and restart the watch when the time matches that on the dial.”[9]

Agents of Deterioration[edit]

Damage can occur via a variety of mechanisms, either due to human error or caused naturally. Agents of Deterioration (AOD) are the ten main categories of threats to cultural property. These spoilage agents can occur while an object is being stored, displayed, preserved, or during the handling or transportation of the object.[15]

Physical power[ edit ]

Physical violence is any impact, shock, vibration, pressure, or abrasion that damages an object. Physical violence injuries are common when the object is handled.[15] Any excessive physical force will crack, damage, splinter the watch frame or easily shatter the glass of the object.

Watches are complex functional objects; Many have moving working parts. Any excessive physical force can damage the mechanics inside the watch, which are critical to its operation. Most commonly, these delicate internal parts are metal, but watches can be made from a variety of materials, from wood to precious metals like silver and gold. They can have enamel inlays or fine carvings and come in a variety of sizes, from small clocks to large grandfather clocks or clock towers. When a watch is in the care of a professional institution such as a museum, proper barriers and monitored watch security greatly reduce this risk. Some common causes of watch damage from physical violence are:

a. Abuse A handler’s failure to remove loose items such as jewelry or clothing items such as scarves from his body can result in those items striking the face of a watch. A handler using his or her bare hands to touch or transport a watch exposes the watch to contamination and leaves “unsightly and potentially harmful marks”. ] can stress the legs and feet of the watch.”[2] Lifting a watch by improper handles or unstable components can cause these parts to break off the watch, potentially causing the watch to fall and onto a surface shattered .

b. Overwinding or Improper Hand Setting Improper watch winding and hand setting procedures can cause serious damage to movement components. Using an improper key to wind a watch is one such improper practice. The way a watch is wound is also important, as “[…] failure to wind it gently and evenly can cause significant and potentially expensive damage”[9], as well as turning the key too frequently.

c. Unstable storage or presentation Unsuitable storage and presentation environments pose great risks to the condition of a watch. Placing a clock on an unstable surface or not securely attaching it to a wall may cause a clock to fall when exposed to external vibration or man-made accidents.

Theft and vandalism[edit]

Some watches are made from valuable materials that are a temptation for theft. They can be small enough to be easily stolen. While there is minimal problem for most wooden clocks as they are rarely stolen in a burglary, a valuable historical clock can be more vulnerable to theft.

In terms of vandalism, there is a risk of property being destroyed in any public place. For example, if a watch is displayed in a place where there are no conventional showcases, large watches could be vandalized. In the case of wooden clocks, the most common problems for a public facility would be slashing the wood, breaking the glass or graffiti. High security, cameras and inspections after leaving the crowds, especially in the case of coveted antique watches, are usually required in professional institutions.

distancing [edit]

The separating means of deterioration refers to the separation or loss of individual parts of an object. This is especially possible with watches during cleaning or maintenance when the watch has to be disassembled. “Watches can consist of up to five hundred individual parts”,[16] so the preventive conservation of these objects can be expensive. Any of these components can be lost or misplaced, which can lead to damage to the object as a whole. If the part is critical, the clock may stop running.

Incorrect relative humidity[ edit ]

The variety of materials used in watches can be sensitive to fluctuations in humidity. “Stable and adequate relative humidity and temperature should be maintained to prevent parts from rusting, corroding, silver darkening, and lubricants drying out.”[10] Changes in relative humidity can cause forested clocks to expand or contract. Fluctuating humidity leads to swelling and contraction, which can “loosen the bonds between organic components”.[17] When changes in humidity cause the wooden parts of the watch to expand and touch, the inorganic components of a watch remain fixed, causing stress within the object.[17] This is a problem in particular when the wood warps and there is a pressure point against the inorganic interior.

Humidity that is too humid can deform organic materials or corrode metals in watches.[17] High humidity can cause a wooden watch to warp, rot, and grow mold or fungus, and corrode a watch’s metal components. Glass panels can also trap moisture inside the machine, creating a prime environment for mold or rust, another spoilage known as pollutants, to grow and accumulate inside.[15]

Wrong temperature[ edit ]

The temperature of a particular environment can play a direct role in watch degradation. “[…] Extremes of temperature and humidity”[2] can cause drastic changes in the materials that make up a watch and inevitably lead to damage. For example, placing a clock near “a source of heat of any kind, including strong sunlight or a mantelpiece over a lighted fire […] may cause damage to cases and clockwork.”[9] In some cases, heat may be carried away from the fire contributes to faster deterioration of mantel clocks.[10]

Watches, regardless of the materials they are made of, can be damaged by improper temperatures. Like light, too high a temperature can lead to weakening, discoloration, and/or decomposition of organic materials.[17]

In the case of wooden watches, temperature is crucial for conservation and preservation. Extreme heat and freezing temperatures damage the wood surface significantly. Incorrect temperatures or uncontrolled climates in storage areas can lead to rapid deterioration of wooden watches. Incorrect temperature will cause the wood to expand or contract.

Pests [edit]

Depending on the materials the watch is made of, pests can be attracted to it. This is especially true for wooden watches, as many pests feed on organic materials such as wood. Many pests, rodents and insects dig or eat wood. Wood-boring insects can infest a watch if it is stored in an environment that supports insect activity and allows them access to the watch.[15]

Spiders can cause problems even with all-metal watches because “their webs can attract dust and clog the movement.”[10]

Pests known to infest clocks are attracted to the organic materials a clock can be made of:

Carpet Beetle – Attracted to protein-based adhesives sometimes used in clock making, and as such “[…] are generally found in joinery and in clock cases.” [2]

– Attracted to protein-based glues sometimes used in clockmaking, and as such “[…] are generally found in joinery and in clock cases.” Powder Beetle – Attracted to any wooden material a clock is constructed of, they are known to bore holes in wood.[2]

Light: Infrared and Ultraviolet[ edit ]

Excessive exposure to light can affect watch materials in a number of ways; Many of the materials used in watches are susceptible to photodamage, both in the ultraviolet and infrared ranges.

Visible light damage can cause discoloration and wear. Exposure to infrared light can increase the temperature of the wood, this can cause increased oxidation which damages the wood surface and develops irregular marks.

Ultraviolet light can weaken, discolor, and/or degrade organic materials such as wood.[17] Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight (UV) damages wood through warping, fading, dry rot and damage to the wood structure. Exposure to UV and infrared light can alter, damage or ruin stains or finishes on a wooden watch.

Depending on the nature of the light source, light-deteriorating substances can be associated with temperature-deteriorating substances. Heat from a light source can also cause the lacquer or finish on a watch surface to melt, resulting in a sticky surface to which harmful contaminants can adhere.[2] Too much light exposure can also cause color changes as well as surface degradation “[…] resulting in a cracked, brittle and/or ‘allied’ appearance.”[2]

Pollutants [ edit ]

Dust accumulation on a watch case.

Pollutants are any element that can corrode, deteriorate, or change the condition of an object. Chemicals, smoke, airborne particles and gases are pollutants that can damage a watch. Below are two such examples:

Dust is one such contaminant that settles on the surface of a watch. If care is not taken, dust accumulation can lead to abrasion and corrosion. Dust and other abrasives in the air can accumulate inside watches and clog and wear out their mechanisms. “The abrasive particles become embedded in the load-bearing wall and act like a piece of ‘sandpaper […].'[5] Normal movement activity can also lead to wear, as lubricants are known to degrade over time. In the case of mantel clocks displayed over chimneys, these abrasives contain soot.

Oil is transferred to a watch surface when a watch is handled with bare hands. The presence of oil on a watch can cause damage, particularly corrosion when metallic watch components are touched.

Other pollutants can cause oxidation and tarnishing on metal watches. Cleaning agents used to remove contaminants may cause a chemical reaction with previously used lubricants or cleaning agents, or with watch materials. Excessive cleaning can “lead to other problems such as overdrying of bearings and stress corrosion cracking of brass exposed to ammonia solution.”[10] The mechanisms in watches are very sensitive to external substances such as oil from fingertips or dust, so much so that if they get into the wrong area, the machine can malfunction.[5] Static displays don’t always require the functionality of a watch, but limiting the input of organic matter from mishandling prevents unnecessary deterioration during the watch’s lifetime. The wood used in many wooden watches is very porous and easily absorbs the elements from its surroundings, compromising the integrity of the wood. Well sealed and insulated rooms reduce pollutant damage.

fire [edit]

Like most cultural monuments, clocks are very susceptible to fire. The temperature fluctuations are not only harmful, most watches are irreparably damaged when exposed to fire. Stray embers from a chimney can pose a potential threat to mantel clocks. Other threats can include open flames, wood stoves, heaters, or pilot lights.

Many clocks are small enough that they could be evacuated in an emergency. Large clocks attached to buildings, such as clock towers, can survive fire and may need to be restored.

water [edit]

Water damage is one of the main causes of deterioration in a wooden watch. Water warps, swells and rots the wood. The components of many watches are extremely susceptible to water damage. Due to the complexity of these objects, they are very difficult to dry. Depending on the severity of the water damage, it can be extremely difficult to repair or restore the watch to its correct condition. Warped or rotted wood can be difficult to salvage, and the damaged material may need to be replaced entirely. Water damage also causes corrosion to the watch’s internal mechanisms.

Certain types of watch damage[edit]

Damage can affect all components and materials that a watch can be made of.

Wood damage[ edit ]

Due to its porous nature, wood is significantly degraded by contact with water. At high humidity, the excess water in the air is absorbed, leading to wood expansion, while at low humidity, little to no water in the air can cause the wood to shrink.[2] Such character changes compared to the original condition of the wood can lead to damage. Types of wood damage associated with low moisture levels include “[…] structural cracking, veneer and marquetry lifting, gaps in joints, and adhesive embrittlement.”[2]

metal damage[ edit ]

Similar to wood, metal’s interaction with water can also prove harmful. When contaminants come into contact with metal, they either combine with existing moisture or attract moisture to the metal. This “[…] combination with moisture can cause corrosion.”[2]

Plastic damage[ edit ]

Modern watches may feature plastic cases, dials, dials and mechanisms in conjunction with more traditional materials such as metal or wood. Since plastic was made in the 20th century, restoration treatments are still being explored by restorers.[18] Because the term plastic encompasses a wide range of materials from celluloid to technopolymers,[19] there are various responses to environmental factors and aging that make watches with plastic cases or components susceptible to unique stresses that are not fully understood here .[20] It is known that various types of plastics can degrade rapidly and unexpectedly due to the inherent vices of some polymers.[21]

The “serpentines” and “stones” of the pillars of this Seth Thomas black mantel clock are made of celluloid bonded to wood. Image rights belong to Mark James Miller

Exposure to improper lighting, moisture, water, or solvents can cause chemical deterioration of plastics, resulting in reactions such as “a white powder ‘blooming’ on the surface of an object, discoloration, distortion of the object’s shape, and a strong indicator smell of vinegar, or mothballs”, crazing, cracks, acid deposits and sticky surface textures.[22]

It can be difficult to easily identify the chemical composition of the plastic used to make an object,[23] which can make effective conservation difficult since the possible reactions to treatments are unknown. Therefore, preventative conservation tactics similar to those used for organic objects are the primary method of caring for plastic objects such as clocks.[24]

Surface or paint damage [ edit ]

The use of cleaning agents and/or polishes on the surface of a watch can damage the surface. Anstatt ihre beabsichtigte Pflicht zur Erhaltung einer Uhr zu erfüllen, können einige Produkte „mit zunehmendem Alter tatsächlich dunkler oder undurchsichtig werden, was zu einem dunklen, stumpfen und oft irreparablen Finish führt.“ [2] Alle Wörter oder Bilder, die auf eine Uhr gemalt sind Die Oberfläche kann verblassen oder sogar entfernt werden, wenn diese empfindlichen Teile berührt und Feuchtigkeit von den Händen ausgesetzt werden.

Innen- oder Uhrwerkschaden [ bearbeiten ]

Uhrwerkschäden können durch Überdrehen, Wechselwirkungen mit Verunreinigungen, schlecht beratene Schmierung und Uhrwerk verursacht werden, wenn ein Pendel nicht gesichert ist, bevor die Uhr bewegt wird. Ein frei schwingendes Pendel kann selbst beschädigt werden und anderen inneren Komponenten während einer solchen Uhrbewegung Schaden zufügen.

Unsachgemäßes Reinigen und Polieren [ bearbeiten ]

Viele Reiniger und Polierer enthalten Eigenschaften, die „[…] nachweislich schlecht altern.“[2] Folglich kann sich die Verwendung solcher Reiniger und Polierer als nachteilig erweisen. Die Verwendung von Reinigungsmitteln auf Ammoniakbasis zum Beispiel auf Uhrenkomponenten aus Messing kann zu einer irreversiblen Form von Beschädigung führen, die als Spannungsrisskorrosion bezeichnet wird.[5] Je nach Art des Metalls, auf dem es verwendet wird, kann ein metallischer Pinsel, der zum Auftragen von Reinigungsmitteln verwendet wird, nicht nur die richtigen Bedingungen für Korrosion schaffen, sondern „[…] auch bei vorsichtigem Gebrauch alle schützenden Oxidschichten entfernen.“[ 5]

Unsachgemäße Schmierung [ bearbeiten ]

Versuche von Laien, das Uhrwerk zu schmieren oder zu reparieren, können zu schweren Schäden und zum Verlust der Uhrfunktion führen. Ein Schmiermittel, das ohne vorheriges Reinigen und Polieren des Uhrwerks aufgetragen wird, um das vorherige Schmiermittel und Verunreinigungen zu entfernen, kann zu Verschleiß führen, anstatt ihn zu verhindern.[5] Die Kombination des neu aufgetragenen Schmiermittels mit dem vorherigen Schmiermittel führt häufig zu „[…] einer unerwünschten chemischen Reaktion zwischen den beiden Schmiermitteln […].“[5] Eine nachlässige Schmiermittelauswahl kann zur Verwendung eines ungeeigneten oder führen „Öl von schlechter Qualität“ auf einem Uhrwerk, das „klebrig werden und zu mechanischen Problemen führen kann.“[2] Die Unerfahrenheit eines Laien kann auch dazu führen, dass „zu viel Öl oder Öl an der falschen Stelle verwendet wird“[ 9] beim Versuch, das Uhrwerk zu schmieren. Das Auftragen von zu viel Schmiermittel kann schädlich sein, weil es „[…] normalerweise dazu führt, dass das Schmiermittel aus dem Lager läuft und durch Kapillarwirkung dazu führt, dass das Lager trocken wird.“[5] Völlig Ignorieren des Schmierbedarfs von Uhrwerken können nicht nur wegen der Zersetzung des Schmiermittels gefährdet sein, sondern auch wegen der sauren Natur der organischen Schmiermittel, die oft in antiken Uhren verwendet werden.[5]

Beispiele für die Konservierung und Restaurierung von Uhren [ bearbeiten ]

Beispiel: Anglesey Abbey Pagoda Clock [ bearbeiten ]

Uhrenrestauratoren am West Dean College waren für die Behandlung einer Pagodenuhr aus dem 18. Jahrhundert verantwortlich, die vom National Trust aus dem historischen Haus Anglesey Abbey geschickt wurde. Zu Beginn des Projekts ergab die Untersuchung der Uhr, dass “die Automaten und Uhrelemente zu laufen scheinen, aber zu kämpfen haben und die Musik klingt, als ob sie ein paar zusätzliche Hände braucht, um ihre Melodie zu spielen.”[25] Die Uhr war dann zerlegt, und es wurde darauf geachtet, Informationen zu jeder der über 600 Komponenten sowohl textlich als auch fotografisch zu dokumentieren, einschließlich Messungen und wo jede Komponente in die Uhr passt. “Nach der Untersuchung wurde jede Komponente gereinigt und getrocknet, in säurefreies Gewebe eingewickelt und mit der Katalognummer aufbewahrt.”[26]

Better than any store bought clock is a DIY clock! Why? Personality! As with most home improvement projects, it’s always more fun to create your own version of what could be a commodity. And yes, we still need clocks! I know you can look at your phone or peek at the microwave or ask Alexa. But clocks represent the passage of time, so that’s fine even if your DIY clock is purely decorative. So, learn how to make a clock and try these stylish DIY clock ideas to decorate your walls with something more fun than just a painting!

Clocks are easy and inexpensive to make, requiring only a base and a purchased clock kit. Here are three easy steps on how to make a DIY wall clock and some great amazing tutorials.

How to make a clock

DIY Clocks Step One:

Buy your supplies. First select a base. It can be anything and any shape… it doesn’t have to be round. Think different. (I know I said it…) If you can drill a hole in it, you can make a clock out of it. Next and foremost, choose your watch mechanism. This is where you really give your DIY clock an individual and personal stamp. There are large and small watches, black or white, metallic, colourful, modern and traditional. Choose what appeals to you. Amazon has tons of movements that you can order and a larger selection than what you would find at the local craft store.

DIY Clocks Step Two:

Drill a hole in your base large enough for your watchmaker shaft to fit through. How heavy is this?

Decorate your watch base if necessary. Color is a good basic choice. Be creative with what you use as “numbers”. Or don’t use any at all!

DIY Clocks Step Three:

Assemble your movement kit according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Hang up your clock! As simple as that!

Of course, those are just the basics. But don’t worry, these DIY clock tutorials will show you step by step how to build a clock in no time. And these great watches rock!

Ideas and instructions for DIY clocks

Make this modern DIY clock using plain plywood! This clock from Hunker would fit into any home, but goes great with boho or MCM design.

This mid-century DIY clock is perfect! I love how clever they made the “lessons”. You must see how easy this tutorial is. From ‘Sugar & Cloth’.

Want something more fun for your home? Learn how to make a clock that looks like a sliced ​​cake! It’s so simple, it’s not funny. (Actually, no pun intended!) From Dream Green DIY, this DIY clock idea is simply a round of wood from the craft store, clockwork, and paint.

If you love the organic look of concrete like we do, then you’ll love this concrete DIY clock from ‘Remodelaholic’! Check out her step-by-step guide and find out how easy this clock idea really is.

This beautiful DIY clock from ‘HomeDIT’ looks like a high-quality piece of wood. But they did it with plain plywood and veneer! Check out how awesome updating this clock would look in your home.

oh me oh my This DIY floral clock from ‘Lovely Indeed’ is absolutely gorgeous! This boho style piece of art is a no brainer and such a creative idea. I like that!

Ok, so can you say that we have a thing for mid century modern design here at OhMeOhMy? No apologies here. This DIY Starburst style clock from Reality Daydream is an easy DIY. And you’ll never guess what their “spokes” are made of!

Want to make a fresh and fun DIY clock for under $10? Then jump over to Curbly and learn how to make a clock with color and panache!

K, I’m not even going to make another sweet comment about our love for MCM design. I think you get it now… 😉 Well, this mid-century modern sphere clock from “Nalle’s House” is the perfect example of rethinking an existing piece. This looks like a high end watch I saw in a recent catalog for over $300!

So let’s take a break from the modern and try something that might suit a country style home. This rustic DIY clock from Home Made Lovely is oversized and really fun. Easy to follow instructions on how to make this clock!

So here is another homemade wooden clock that is more in contemporary modern style. This watch is more of a work of art than a timepiece! From ‘Creativity Hero’.

Ok, as a nature lover I love this live edge DIY clock from ‘Crafted Workshop’. You’ll need to find a piece of live edge wood, but most wood supply stores can help you with this.

Love love LOVE this color blocked DIY wall clock from ‘Sarah Hearts’. This coral color is amazing, and this whole project feels happy and fresh! Follow their simple tutorial.

So finally we have this two tone modern clock from ‘Woodshop Diaries’. This is totally sophisticated and made of two types of wood. Such a pretty watch!

So by now you should be an expert in making a watch, right? Do you have any other great ideas for DIY clocks? Share them in comments! We think you should also check out our posts on DIY Area Rugs and 22 Easy DIY Floating Shelfs!

Note: This post has been updated with new projects.

This post may contain affiliate links. Please read our disclosure for more information.

Pattern Keeper is supported on Android devices running Android version 4.1 or later with Google Play Store installed. However, it works smoother on newer devices. If you’re buying a new device to run Pattern Keeper on, it’s recommended to have at least 2GB of RAM memory. Also avoid Android 8.1 if possible as this version of Android is known to be a bit unstable.

There are no screen size requirements and you can run it on a phone, for example. However, some people prefer the larger screens as you can see more of the chart at once.

The 65 most important cross stitch terms and acronyms

You love cross stitch and you usually know what other seamstresses are talking about in these Facebook groups or in Flosstube videos. But there are still a few acronyms and weird terms used in the cross stitch world that get over your head. Well you are not alone! Here’s my comprehensive list of 65 terms to help you understand why on earth people are talking about frogs!

THE TOP CROSS STITCH TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Aida – the most popular cross stitch fabric from brands such as DMC, Zweigart and Charles Craft. The threads are woven evenly to form squares and the most popular counts are 14 and 16 (see count below).

Backstitch – a method of sewing to outline a cross-stitch piece, usually in a dark color.

Beads – can be sewn onto a project to add depth, color and detail.

BAP – Big Ass Project!

Blending – (also called tweeding) Using two or more thread colors (usually one thread each) on the same needle at the same time to blend the colors as you sew.

Confetti – individual stitches of different colors that look like little confetti being thrown!

Chart – the cross stitch pattern to work from when sewing.

Count – the number of holes per inch. Often you’ll hear “count 14,” meaning 14 holes (or squares) in one inch of fabric.

Counted Cross Stitch – The fabric is a solid color and you use a printed or digital pattern as a guide to help you place each stitch.

Cross Country – Thread used continuously throughout sections of a pattern when sewing, rather than finishing in one section and starting over, which looks a bit “Cross Country” from the back!

DMC – one of the most popular thread brands (or yarns) used for embroidery and cross stitching. It is available in hundreds of different colors and effects. This is the brand of thread we use in all Caterpillar Cross Stitch Kits!

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Evenweave – a popular type of fabric used for cross stitching. Woven with one thread and usually worked over two threads.

Fabric – what you use for cross stitching. This can be Aida, Evenweave, Linen or other variations.

FAD – fun and done!

Dental floss – another word for thread used in cross stitch e.g. DMC dental floss

Frog/frogging – when you’ve made a mistake and need to cut out and remove/rip out some of your stitches – comes from the noise frogs making “ribbit ribbit” sound like “Rip it rip it!”.

Break Stitches – If a design has curves you can use break stitches to ‘smooth’ the edges instead of having sharp corners by only using whole stitches which are obviously very square!

French knot – a small knot used to define small details in a pattern, e.g. the eye of an animal.

Full Stitches – the traditional cross stitch that uses a whole square on your fabric (as opposed to partial stitches which appear as a half or quarter square).

FFO – Final Finished Object, Fully Finished Object, or Final Framed Object

FS – Forgotten Stash

GA—Gentle Arts Thread

Half Stitch – (see Partial Stitches above), also called “tent stitch”, uses a diagonal stitch instead of a full cross stitch, where two threads cross over a square in your fabric.

Haul – If you’ve shopped in person or online and have purchased a large quantity of cross stitch items, you can show off your “Haul.”

HIH – Happiness is Homemade, the very first Caterpillar Cross Stitch Stitch-a-Long project of 2017

Jobelan – a type of cotton and modal evenly woven fabric, softer than Aida.

Kit – as opposed to just a pattern. A complete cross stitch kit (like this one at Caterpillar Cross Stitch!) includes everything you need – fabric, floss, needle, instructions and full pattern.

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Linen – made from 100% linen yarn and woven like Evenweave (see above). Linen has a natural, traditional look and can be more difficult to sew on.

LNS – Local Craft Shop

MCBAP – Massively Complicated Big Ass Project

Needle Minder – a small decorative magnet that attaches to your cross stitch fabric and keeps your needle safe and secure when not in use. We offer over 23 different designs!

Needlepoint – (also called tapestry) is a form of embroidery that uses thread to sew through a mesh canvas, similar to Aida but larger and more textured.

OAP – Old Abandoned Project

ONS – online shop for handicrafts

OOP – Out of stock

ORT – Old raggedy threads or orphaned random threads. Place also means scrap.

PAD – project finished

Park – to use multiple needles, each with different threads to make sewing larger areas easier, but with fewer stitches of each shade of thread (to avoid having to rethread your needle over and over again).

PFO – Pulled From Oblivion (if you haven’t worked on a piece for a while!)

PHD – Semi-finished project

PAD – project finished

Q-Snap – a type of hoop used for cross stitching that snaps around a hoop to hold your fabric taut and in place.

Railroading – Pass the needle between two already sewn strands of thread to give the stitch a flatter look.

RAK – Random Act of Kindness – where a sewer posts or buys a set/pattern for someone else. Often found in Facebook groups or as a surprise gift for someone they think deserves it.

RR – (Round Robin) a system where a project is passed from one stapler to the next, etc., until completion.

SABLE – Stash acquired beyond life expectancy

SAL – (Stitch-a-Long) can also be a mysterious stitch-a-long where the subject is a mystery. SAL projects are divided into several parts, in which the pattern for each part is published periodically, and many stitchers embroider each part at the same time. Find out more about our latest Stitch-a-long here!

SINS – Stuff I will never sew

SIP stitching is running

Skeins – how your thread (or floss) comes in 8m lengths wound into loops with a small paper tag stating the brand and color coding.

Stash – a collection of cross-stitch related items (e.g. look, your stash is out of control!)

Stitchy Buddy – any pet that sits with you (or on top of you!) while you sew.

Sew Over 2 – a term used when you are sewing on even woven or linen fabric (see above) and you are skipping two holes before you place your needle and sew, as opposed to one hole as when sewing on Aida – Substance is left out.

Tapestry – (also called Needlepoint) is a form of embroidery that uses thread to sew through a mesh canvas, similar to Aida but larger and more textured.

Tweeding – (also called blending) Using two or more thread colors (usually one thread each) on the same needle at the same time to mix the colors when sewing.

TOAD – Shattered object left in disgust

UFO – Unfinished Object

USO – Unstarted Objects

Waste Canvas – for embroidering a design on a non-grid fabric. Use it as a guide and it can be removed afterwards either by washing it away or by pulling it out piece by piece leaving only the finished design.

WHIMM – Work hidden in my head

WDW – Weeks Dye Works – a popular brand of cross stitch thread.

WIP – Work in progress

WISP – Work is slow going

WTF – Waiting for the conclusion

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Cross stitch is making a comeback among modern makers and craftsmen. Learning to cross stitch is easy, and this beginner cross stitch tutorial will have you sewing in no time!

What is cross stitch?

Cross stitch is a form of counted thread embroidery that has been around for ages and is one of the easiest forms of hand embroidery to learn. Cross-stitch consists of X-shaped stitches performed on fabrics with an even and open weave, such as Aida or linen. Designs can be traditional or modern or anywhere in between.

Cross stitch projects are often sold as kits, but you can also buy basic materials and make up your own project.

Either way, follow these steps to learn the basics of cross stitching.

Step 1: Read the cross stitch chart

A cross stitch chart tells you everything you need to know, where to sew and what color to use. The grid on a cross stitch chart corresponds to the grid created by weaving the fabric, and each colored square on the chart represents a cross stitch.

A combination of colors and symbols in the squares (or symbols only if the chart is black and white) will tell you which color of floss to use. Use the chart legend to match the symbols to the floss colors.

When starting a new cross stitch project, it’s a good idea to start sewing in the middle of the design. This way you ensure that your design is centered in the fabric. Small arrows at the edges of a cross stitch chart indicate the centers.

Take a look at your chart and start by finding an area near the center. It may be easier to start with a large block of color rather than a part of the pattern that changes color frequently.

Step 2: Prepare your fabric

Cross stitch can be done on a number of different fabrics, but the most common are Aida and linen. Both are woven fabrics that tend to fray when cut. Before you start sewing, it’s a good idea to tie up the edges, especially if you’re sewing a large project that requires a lot of handling.

To minimize fraying, sew the edges with a zigzag stitch or use a serger if you have one. If you don’t want to sew the edges, you can tie them off with masking tape.

Step 3: Find the center of your fabric

To find the center of your fabric, fold it in half one direction and then in half the other direction. Pinch and fold the center point to mark it. You can put a needle in the center or make a small stitch to further mark the center point.

Step 4: With a Hoop or Frame

There are many different types of embroidery hoops and embroidery frames. Whether you use one or not is up to you. Beginners at embroidery may find it easier to place their fabric in an embroidery hoop.

To use a hoop, first loosen the bolt and separate the two rounds. Lay the round flat on a table or work surface without the screw. Place the fabric over the hoop, making sure the center of the fabric is in the middle of the hoop. Place the other round over the fabric and press down so the fabric is pinched between the two hoops. Gently pull the fabric taut while tightening the screw on the embroidery frame. Do not pull the fabric too tight, otherwise the weave of the fabric will be distorted.

Step 4: Prepare your thread

Choose the color of floss you are starting with and cut a length of about 18 inches. If you go much longer, the thread is more likely to knot as you sew.

Most embroidery thread consists of six strands of thread twisted together. Depending on the fabric you are using, you will typically only sew with one or two threads at a time.

To separate a strand, hold the floss with one hand and pinch the end of a strand with the other hand. Gently and slowly pull the strand up and out until it separates from the rest of the strands. Only pull on one strand at a time. Pulling on multiple strands can cause the floss to become tangled.

Step 5: Thread your needle

Cross-stitch is usually done with a round-ended tapestry needle. The size you use depends on your fabric. When sewing a set, use the included needle. If not, read this article on how to choose a needle for cross stitching.

Thread your needle the same way you would a needle for hand sewing. Do not tie a knot in the back end. You will sew across the tail as you work to attach it without needing a knot. As a general rule, you should not use knots when cross-stitching as these can leave lumps in the finished piece.

Step 6: Make a row of cross stitches

Cross stitch is generally worked in rows from left to right. Refer to your sewing chart to find out where to start sewing.

Starting from the wrong side of the fabric, insert your needle forward through a hole, leaving about an inch of thread on the back side. You will cover the tail with your stitches as you work to attach it.

Next, insert your needle through a hole diagonally across from where you started to sew a diagonal half cross stitch (/). Make sure to hold the tail on the back of the fabric so it doesn’t slip through.

Begin your second half cross stitch by bringing the needle back up through the hole just below the hole you last used. Before tightening this stitch, turn your fabric onto the wrong side and make sure the yarn end is caught in the stitch.

Continue sewing along the row to make a row of half cross stitches (////).

Then return across the row and make a row of half cross stitches in the other direction (\\\\).

Step 7: Making individual cross stitches

In some areas of your design it may be easier to do a full cross stitch before moving on to the next stitch rather than working in rows. Follow the chart below to make single cross stitches.

Step 8: End your thread

Continue sewing until you reach the end of the thread or until you run out of stitches in your pattern. Pass the needle under at least three finished stitches on the wrong side of the fabric to secure the thread. Cut the remaining thread, being careful not to cut too short.

tips

You will quickly become familiar with basic cross stitching. Here are a few additional tips to keep in mind.

Yarn Basics for Cross Stitch

There are hundreds of different threads available to the stapler, too many to list. The following information provides basic information about the new cross stitcher.

Selecting and managing threads

The most common thread used for counted embroidery is cotton thread (often referred to as embroidery floss), but you will also see floral threads, linen threads, rayons, perlé cotton threads, various metallic and spacer dyed specialty threads used in charts and patterns.

I use Madeira cotton (thread) for all my cross stitch kits, but there are other manufacturers. The picture above shows some of Oliver Twist’s wonderful fibers – they make me itchy to sew!

Use of stranded cotton (floss)

When choosing threads, always have the fabric you plan to use ready as the color of your background fabric will affect your choice of thread colors. If you’re in a store, check the color of the thread in daylight, as electric lights can “kill” some shades. It is possible to buy daylight bulbs to use in regular home spotlights – a great help when working in the evening.

Cross stitch is generally worked with two strands of cotton when working on 14 and 16 count Aida. Mixing the number of threads used within the same project is perfectly acceptable. You may want to change up the texture of the finished piece by working in one, two, or even three strands.

If you are using two or more strands for your cross stitch, you will need to separate the strands and then realign them before you thread your needle and start sewing.

If you’re working on Aida and aren’t sure how many threads to use, sew a few full cross stitches and look at the stitches in daylight. For some colors, the number of strands may need to be adjusted to suit the project.

If you are working with even fabric and do not know how many threads to use, carefully pull a thread from the edge of the fabric and compare the thread with the cotton threads. In general, unless you want a more striking effect, the strands on the needle should be of similar weight.

Perlé cotton

Perlé or Perl is an indivisible shiny cotton thread in several different weights and color ranges. It is often used for Hardanger embroidery.

silk thread

Silk thread is available in a huge range of colors and types, from the major manufacturers and small specialty retailers and dyers. More expensive than cotton, they are used when the luster and/or delicacy of silk is needed.

There are also viscose threads with a very high sheen.

Metallic and mixed threads

You can see that metallic threads come in all shapes and sizes, not just strands

Available in a wide range of thicknesses, colors and grades from companies such as Kreinik, Coats and DMC. They are usually used in combination with other yarns to add shine or shine. In our Members’ Studio we have tips and hints for using these more challenging yarns! Go to Get Involved

wool yarns

Twisted pure wool is used for canvas embroidery (often called tapestry). There are several brands including Anchor Tapestry Wool (coats), DMC Tapestry Wool and Appletons Tapestry Wool.

You buy a cross stitch pattern or kit, sew day and night, embellish, fix mistakes, and wash your cross stitch (or maybe wonder if you need to wash your cross stitch) and finally you’re done. You step back and admire your work and then… and then… and then you’re not sure what to do with it.

Unfortunately, that’s something people often think. The more you sew, the bigger your stack of finished cross stitches will be. But what do you do with everyone when you’re done?

It’s a case of ignoring them in a corner for many, but you can use a full cross stitch in a whole host of ways. We’re rounding up the best we know and some submissions from our followers.

We’ll start with some of the more obvious ones and then explore the more interesting ones.

frame it

Yes, that’s right; frame it I know a lot of people who cross stitch, but not that many who cross stitch and then frame their work. If you spend hundreds of hours on an artwork (or craft), I think you might as well show it off.

When it comes to framing you have two options: you can either frame your cross stitch yourself or go to a framer. A framer will do a good job, but it will cost some money. Framing yourself is almost free, but it takes a little more effort to look perfect, for example figuring out if you should frame your cross stitch with or without glass. But whichever way you choose, arranging your work allows you to display it (even if it’s just for yourself) and enjoy your work.

But maybe, like me, you’ve crossed so many things and filled in so many frames that there’s no room left on any wall in your house. This is when I go through my frames and update them. This may be more difficult for those of you who prefer to have your cross stitch framed by a framer, but for self framers it gives you the opportunity to always have something new.

sell it

Let me answer a question that may have just been asked; People buy ready-made cross-stitches. Sure, the market isn’t huge, but people are parting with their money and buying a lot of ready-made pieces. In fact, we’ve written a post so many times about how to sell your finished cross stitch.

You can recoup the cost of production and actually make quite a profit. However, you must part with your cross-stitch; For many, however, that’s not too much of a request.

save it

This may seem crazy at first, but listen to us; to save. Unlike every other option on this list, you won’t be able to see it when you store it, but it will keep it in perfect condition (as long as you store your finished cross stitch properly). If you want to make a piece an heirloom, or at least have it framed later, you need to keep it in a safe place.

Make a quilt

So let’s get down to crafting. We covered other hobbies a cross stitcher would enjoy in a recent post and one of the biggest was sewing. The great thing about sewing is that you can add cross stitches. One way is to make a quilt.

One of the first projects hobbyists can learn is how to make a quilt. It’s traditionally made with patches from t-shirts, but you can change it up and add ready-made cross-stitches without any fuss!

Make a tablecloth

The second idea for a sewing project is a tablecloth. It’s quite similar in design to a quilt, but you wouldn’t darn it. If you’re really creative you can make sure that every seat at the table gets its own cross stitch, and if all the designs have a similar theme (like Christmas) you can bring it out for special occasions!

Make a pillow case

Although you can buy hundreds of pillows and pillowcases, they are rarely personal. However, with a simple piece of sewing, you can turn any cross stitch into a killer pillow. Add a piece of fabric, sew the sides together and slip in a pillow and you’re sorted.

Make a pencil case/sewing box

Another idea I would suggest is the sewing or pencil case. Depending on what you want to pack (a project travel case would be larger) you can use either small or large ready-made cross stitches for this. Just follow a sewing guide, but instead of using fabric, use your cross stitch. You can have multiple designs or just one and make yourself something really practical.

Make a glasses cleaning cloth

If you wear glasses like me, you know how damn handy a glasses cleaning cloth is. But have you ever thought about cross stitch?

I’ll start by saying you have to be selective here. Not only do you need a small cross stitch, it needs to be on a soft cross stitch fabric like linen and not Aida (which will scratch the glass). But embroidery on a glasses cleaning cloth actually helps to clean the glasses.

However, be aware that glasses cleaning cloths will take a lot of wear and tear and will likely be covered in grease (washing is a must here!) and likely be washed often, so your cross-stitch may not last forever.

make coasters

The sheer volume of coaster kits available at cross stitch and craft stores should give you a clue that cross stitch is perfect for coasters. Again, you’ll need a smaller cross-stitch, but the great thing here is that the cross-stitch is held inside the coaster, meaning it’s protected from everything but the sun. You can keep your cross stitch safe while you see it all day, every day.

You could also add some striping to the edge and just use the cross stitch itself, but I’d worry about spilling tea…

Make Pins/Needle Minders

Now if you go straight into the small cross stitch you can make pins and needle reducers. You can use plastic canvas cross stitches (in fact you can finish plastic canvas in many ways), small cross stitches, or (dare I say it) cut apart a sampler. This will break the whole thing, but if you can make something out of the smaller parts but not the whole design, it might be worth it.

There are a few different ways to make pins and needle reducers, including some kits, so we won’t say exactly how here, but instructions aren’t hard to come by.

Whatever you decide to do with your finished cross stitch, remember to remove your cross stitch from the hoop.

Guess what time it is!! It’s time to show you how to make your own DIY wooden wall clock! So you always know what time it is 🙂

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I know that was a super cheesy introduction. I apologize. That was worse than that pick-up line about did it hurt when you fell out of the sky? Have you heard that before? Yeah, that didn’t work for anyone hahaha.

Anyway, isn’t this watch beautiful?! I mean, I know I’m a little biased, but I really wanted to keep it. Unfortunately I made it for some friends and it had their name on it so it only made sense to give it up haha.

Does it still look familiar to you? Does it remind you of my DIY clock coffee table? It’s basically the same thing with different features!

So when you’re ready to make one, you’ll need the following:

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Tools and Materials:

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(2) 1x10x8 boards

wood glue

miter saw

Drill

Kreg Jig for pocket holes (optional)

1 ¼″ blind hole screws (optional)

Large clamps (I use pipe clamps)

Milling cutters and straight bit

jigsaw

spot

colour

sandpaper

High Torque Movement

Large clock hands

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Step 1: Assemble the DIY wooden clock face

Cut four 1×10 boards a little longer than you want your clock diameter. I made my clock about 34″ in diameter, so I cut pieces about 36″ long.

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My clock boards are glued together. You can also use ¾″ pocket holes and 1 ¼″ pocket hole screws to attach the boards instead. This piece was actually left over when I was trying to make a round wooden mirror frame for our bathroom remodel, but went with the floating mirror shelf instead.

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This was the center piece that was left of this frame.

After gluing and clamping the boards together, I cut out the center using a router and circle jig. But it might actually be easier to just draw the circle and use a jigsaw.

Either way, just have the circle cut 🙂

Step 2: Finish the DIY clock with paint or stain

Sand the wood round and finish as desired. I stained mine with Minwax Provincial, then drybrushed with white paint and distressed a few spots with sandpaper.

Step 3: Add roman numerals to the DIY clock

I used this technique to apply the numbers to the clock. This is also how I made my letters on the clock coffee table. Just print out your numbers REFLECTED on an inkjet printer and follow this tutorial. I made my letters about 3″ tall.

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To make sure your numbers line up correctly, use a speed square and a straight edge to align everything so there are 30 degrees between all the numbers. Drill a small hole in the center of the clock for reference, then line up the straight edge of the speed square with the hinge in the center of the clock and the center hole. On the clock, use a pencil to mark the 30, 60, and 90 degree marks on the square. Then use a straight edge to line up the center hole and each mark, and place the center of your number along that line. Tape it down with masking or painter’s tape.

Once your numbers are activated, you can add a personal touch by adding your name or other wording using the same technique. This is your own personal preference.

Step 4: Mill out the hole for the clockwork

Take the clock back to the store and turn it upside down. Drill a larger hole in the center that will accommodate the shaft in the clockwork.

Put the shaft in the hole and trace the clockwork.

Put a straight bit in your router and set the depth to the thickness of the movement. It should be about ½ inch thick. Lead out the wood within the traced shape.

Put the clockwork in the hole and make sure it fits.

Step 5: Add clock hands

Follow the instructions with the clockwork to attach the clock hands to the front of the wooden clock.

The movement itself has a hanger to make hanging on the wall very easy. But it also looks great just resting on a console table leaning against the wall. By the way, here’s a little taste of another project I’ll be posting soon 😉

I love the contrast between the dark clock hands and the distressed white clock and the numbers are somewhere in the middle with that touch of gray 🙂

You can weight it more or less depending on your own preferences. And you can also add any words or letters on the body. I think it would be cool with a big monogram too!

What do you think of this wall clock? How would you personalize yours?

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Keep an eye out for that console table item soon 😉 And before you go, I’d appreciate if you pin this for later!!

Until next time, happy DIY! 🙂

” ” The paper clock made of paper

Children learning to tell the time will love this paper clock. With its bright colors and posable hands, this paper craft comes at just the right time! Learn how to build a paper clock here.

With just a few materials, you can become a watch expert in no time. Read on to learn how to make your own cute clock.

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What you will need:

paper plate, 9 inches

number sticker

decorative paper

brad

Sharp pencil

scissors

Perforator

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How to make the paper clock

Step 1: Glue number stickers around the plate, using a clock as a guide for proper placement.

Step 2: Trace the two (2) clock hands onto decorative paper; cut out. Punch a hole near the bottom of each clock hand.

Step 3: Use a sharp pencil to punch a hole in the center of the panel. Insert the brad through the hour hand, minute hand and then through the hole in the plate and secure.

Now it’s time to have some fun with your new paper clock!

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Want more cool paper craft projects? Check out these pages:

Learn how to make this easy DIY wooden clock using leftover plywood and a wall clock kit. Add a reclaimed pallet wood look with this in-depth tutorial.

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It’s time to make a clock! (see what I did there?)

Can you ever have too many clocks in your house?

I do not think so. I’m all about having a clock in every corner of the house. I want to be able to look up (and turn around if necessary) and see a clock.

So yes we have a clock in every room and if I could maybe 2 in larger rooms like the living room.

Here’s the problem though – being creative at heart, I can’t bring myself to set up simple clocks.

But I can’t bring myself to spend a lot of money on fancy watches…

Of course I do it – because I can!

In the past I’ve taken the simple Ikea clocks and given them lots of character and color like with the DIY Ikea Rusch Makeover and Easy Ikea Skoj Makeover

I’ve also made my own watches in the past (well before the blogging days).

This time I decided to use some plywood I had left over to make a clock.

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Do-it-yourself plywood clock

I recently redesigned our staircase and the risers got a really quick and easy, but gorgeous makeover.

I had some end pieces left over from cutting the plywood backing I brought to work and now they can tell me the time! 🙂

You can customize this design to give it a modern look with paint, or add a slightly rustic touch with a stain like I did.

***This post contains referral or affiliate links. It is a way for this website to earn advertising fees by promoting or linking to specific products and/or services. Please read my full disclosure here ***

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How to make a wooden watch?

Step 1 – Cut the base

Cutting your own base is optional. You can also buy wooden rounds at hardware or craft stores. You want it to be ¼″ thick.

I already had a piece of MDF in my workshop that was the right size to cut out, so I went with that.

Draw a circle of the desired size on the MDF/plywood. The usual size for a regular wall clock is between 10″ – 16″. You can use anything round like a saucepan lid or dinner plate to trace.

on the MDF/plywood in the desired size. The usual size for a normal wall clock is between . You can use anything round like a saucepan lid or dinner plate to trace. Cut out the circle with a jigsaw. (If you have a scroll saw or band saw, it may be easier to cut with higher accuracy.)

See everything you need to know to use a jigsaw and get the best cuts.

Step 2 – Prepare strips

Tear the pieces of thin plywood/backing into 2″ wide strips. I used my BladeRunner X2 for this. You can also use a table saw.

Dye or paint the stripes. I used walnut, nutmeg and golden oak stains. You can also paint in different colors for a fun, colorful look!

Step 3 – Attach Strips

Place the strips on the MDF circle and adjust until you are happy with the design.

Attach them with a strong adhesive like super glue.

Alternatively, you can use wood glue and then put something heavy on top to let it set overnight. I had a little patience so it was super glue 🙂

Step 4 – Cut the strips

Once the wood slats have dried you will want to cut off any excess slats.

Turn the circle over and use a jigsaw to cut off the overhanging pieces of plywood. You can use the MDF circle as a guide to cut the plywood.

This is a great time to also use a router with a flush trim bit if you have one.

Step 5 – Add watch numbers

Mark the watch numbers.

Add clock numbers. I used a colored pencil to write the numbers. You can use stickers or pre-made watch numbers.

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How to Number a Clock Find the center of the clock and mark it.

Mark the vertical and horizontal diameters of the dial and divide it into equal quarters. These are positions “12”, “3”, “6” and “9”.

If you want to mark the other positions, these are the 30 and 60 degree positions. You can use a speed square or protractor to mark this

Step 6 – Add Wall Clock Kit.

Mark the center of the clock and attach the clockwork kit according to the instructions on the packaging.

Tip – Use a drill bit the same size as the clockwork shaft and drill front to back so any chipped wood is hidden on the back.

That’s it!

An easy and quick DIY wooden clock project that will look great with any decor style!

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More ideas for DIY wooden wall clocks –

More projects you might like –

This cardboard clock is a fun learning tool to teach kids how to tell time. Knowing how to read an analog clock is a life skill that is still important in the digital age. Making a DIY clock allows children to easily understand the components of a clock and how each part works. They can then decorate their room with their cardboard clock model and use it in creative play.

How to make a cardboard clock?

My daughter Chloe is 6.5 years old and suddenly has a strong interest in learning how to tell the time on an analogue clock. She has a watch she found in her room recently that she wanted to wear and kept asking me what time it was. It was hard to explain so I pulled up a YouTube video for kids that explained it pretty well, but thought it would be fun to take it further and make a clock together.

I tried to show her how clocks work and I think it’s important for children to understand how to read an analog clock and a digital clock. We also have a clock in our house that shows 24-hour military time, but there is still a long way to go to learn it 🙂

I’ve shared a few different watch projects on this blog over the years. Some of my favorites are my school clock made from pencils and the drum clock made from my husband’s old tom drum.

Many DIY clock tutorials keep the design fairly minimal, which is fine for adults who already know how to tell time, but kids need all the details so they understand how it actually works.

By helping you build a simple cardboard clock, it helps tell the time. Although this clock doesn’t actually work, it’s fun for kids to play with and learn how hours and minutes work.

Materials for a cardboard clock with moving hands:

2 dinner plates. One spot must be at least an inch smaller in diameter than the other

number sticker

pencil

2 square meters of cardboard

2 colored craft sticks

scissors

Pin – I like these wooden pins

construction paper

glue stick

ruler

Watch Design Guide:

Turn the plates upside down on the cardboard and draw them on the cardboard with a pencil. Then cut out the circles. Glue colored construction paper to the front to make the clock face. Using a ruler, start by marking 12, 3, 6, and 9 on the small circle. Stick the corresponding number stickers in these areas. Then use the ruler to make sure all the spaces are even and add the rest of the number for the clock face. On the larger cardboard circle you can add numbers around the perimeter in increments of 5 from 5 to 60. Glue the smaller cardboard circle to the larger one. Find the center of the cardboard clock and make a hole. To make the clock hands use 2 colored popsicle sticks. One full-size, one at two-thirds length for the hour and minute hands. Poke a hole at the end of each of them. Use the pin to attach it to the center of the cardboard clock. Either hang the clock on the wall or place it on a shelf when not in use. Use it as a tool to help your kids tell the time.

More clock tutorials you may like:

DIY sunburst school clock made from pencils

DIY drum clock

More kids crafts you may like

How to make paper plate prices

Botanical sun catcher crafts for kids

paper bag gift wrap

Have you ever built a clock? Let me know how you did it in the comments.