How To Make A Rain Chamber For Frogs? 97 Most Correct Answers

Keeping frogs as pets is a rewarding experience for some people. For others not so much. In this post, I’ll go over the pros and cons of caring for frogs, give you a list of things you’ll need, and tell you how to get started!

Before you buy a frog

There are a number of things you should consider first before buying a frog. Where will you keep the frog, how will you feed it, and are you okay with the croaking noises it makes? These are all good questions to ask yourself. Also, most frogs and toads don’t do well with handling. It’s stressful for them and if your hands are dirty it can also be harmful.

Some frogs are poisonous in the wild. Research suggests the venom comes from the alkaline bugs that eat them. In captivity, however, they are completely harmless; as long as they are not fed alkaline insects.

Perhaps the most important step is finding out about the species of frog you want. Many popular species are available from local pet stores and breeders, making them fairly easy to acquire. Because of this, most people don’t think about where the frog came from. It’s important because you need to familiarize yourself with the kind of environment they need to survive. Some frogs live in arid regions with temperate temperatures, while others inhabit tropical jungles that require high humidity. In short, do your research first. Look up care sheets to find out what type of habitat you should provide.

Are Frogs the Right Choice for You?

Frogs are delicate amphibians. Your skin is semi-permeable and absorbs everything that comes in contact with it. So they can breathe underwater (sort of). Oxygen in the water is absorbed through their skin, which allows them to stay underwater for a long time. They absorb chemicals from toxic water or whatever is left on your hands.

Because of this, it’s best to leave frogs alone. They are more of a show pet that is good to look at but not so good to play with. If you are looking for something to hold, I suggest finding another pet.

Find out what type you want

The best thing you can do is do some research on the specific species of frog you want to keep. Frogs come from a variety of climates and conditions, so their enclosure should match their natural habitat. Whether it is special UVB lighting with day/night alternation or providing the right substrate for digging, everything is important.

Photo credit: The Compleat Naturalist

Luckily, people have kept frogs as pets for years and there is a wealth of information online. Once you’ve narrowed down a list of 2 or 3 potential frog pets, read up on some care sheets about each of them. This will give you an idea of ​​what to expect, how to set up their cage, what they eat, etc.

The best and worst frogs for beginners →

And of course plan accordingly. If you don’t have time to fog your frog’s enclosure, find one that doesn’t require as much attention or consider installing an automated fogging system.

The pros and cons

Since you are on this page reading a beginner’s guide to frogs, I am assuming that you are at least slightly interested in buying one. That’s great! But keeping frogs isn’t for everyone! I want to provide you with the best information possible in hopes of helping you make an informed decision. So, without further ado, here are some pros and cons.

List of professionals

Frogs make great show pets

Some types sound beautiful

Relatively low maintenance

After the acquisition costs, maintenance is inexpensive

list of disadvantages

It can get expensive*

They are not the best pet to handle

Not great for kids

Wild-caught frogs can be very dangerous*

They can be noisy and so can their food (BBQ).

*It can get expensive. This largely depends on the type and your desired tank setup. You can probably buy a bumblebee toad, a large faunarium, and everything you need to take care of them for $100 or less, which compares cheaply to my next example. If you want a bioactive vivarium with 3 Vietnamese moss frogs, spend over $500 to set everything up. The frogs alone cost about $100 each, while a 24″ x 18″ x 18″ terrarium costs about $125. Then, of course, you have to add the cost of all the other equipment.

*Wild caught frogs can be very dangerous. Poison dart frogs are deadly, some toads have bufotoxins in their parotid glands, and all frogs can transmit salmonella spread through their feces. I’m not suggesting keeping frogs or toads that you catch in the wild. They do not adapt well to captivity and can be dangerous. If you would like a frog, please contact a local breeder or pet store! Bread frogs in captivity pose a much lower risk and are already adapted to captivity.

Accessories for keeping frogs

There is a seemingly endless supply of products for frog enclosures. The necessities will largely depend on the species you are keeping, but I will do my best to cover the basics for each species in the following section. As I mentioned in the previous section, find out everything you need to properly care for the species you want.

Housing

Of course you need a container for your frog to live in. They can be as cheap or as expensive as you like, but the cages I suggest on this site are usually reasonably priced. Whether it’s an aquarium or a terrarium, there are many brands all competing to make the best product at the best price. They offer multiple sizes and are often geared toward reptiles and amphibians. Plus, terrarium starter kits contain many of the things you need to set up your pet’s enclosure, all in one package.

There are three basic types of cages that you should become familiar with; Arboreal, terrestrial and aquatic. I’ll cover each one quickly in the following sections.

treelike

Tree enclosures are usually taller than they are wide. They are great for tree frogs. Click here to learn how to set up a tree frog terrarium →

These cages are mainly for tree frogs. Tree species spend a lot of time in trees. Therefore, they prefer vertical space to horizontal space. If you can find a cage that fits tree frogs, the best option, in my opinion, is a terrarium. Terrariums are similar to aquariums except they allow airflow through vents near the bottom. They also have doors in the front that give you easy access to everything inside.

Terrestrial

An earth cage is an enclosure that focuses on more horizontal space than vertical space. The inhabitants of these enclosures are usually toads or digging frogs. Species that do not climb well or jump very high. You can use a terrarium or aquarium for land frogs. If you’re using an aquarium, just be sure to put a strainer lid on the top so your pet can’t escape.

water

A rocky bottom with a few ornaments that act as hiding places. By the way, please excuse my terrible pictures. If you want to learn how to set up an aquarium frog tank, click here →

Believe it or not, aquatic frogs actually exist and are very popular. For the fully aquatic species, an aquarium is the obvious choice. The dimensions of the tank will largely depend on how many frogs you are keeping, but almost any 10 gallon aquarium will work. A common practice for housing multiple frogs is to follow the 10-gallon-per-frog rule. For African Dwarf Frogs and African Clawed Frogs, the size of the tank can be as big as you want as long as the height is no more than 12″.

light and heating

All frogs require a certain temperature range to remain healthy and active. Some actually require UVB lighting as well. To create a healthy environment, you need to find a way to heat their enclosure and provide special lighting when needed.

There are many options for both. Heating pads are popular with amphibian owners. They can be placed under the case or on the side out of sight. Another option is sun lamps placed over the top of the case. They are great for creating a nice temperature gradient.

If you set up an enclosure for frogs or toads in a room with little or no natural light from a window, you need to provide them with light so they can have a day-night cycle. If you just need a light for a good reason, I recommend the Exo Terra Day & Night LED. It’s a basic light that you can usually find for $25-$30, it sticks to the side of the cage and also has a daylight and night light mode.

humidity

The best way to increase humidity in a terrarium is by misting. Whether you have an automatic fogging system, fog machine, or just spray the cage with a cheap spray bottle, you need to do this often. How often depends on the species you keep. Poison dart frogs, for example, need high humidity, while common toads don’t need nearly as much.

Either way, you need to plan ahead. Since this article is aimed at beginners, I am assuming that you are unfamiliar with fog systems and fog machines. It’s an interesting topic that you should eventually look into. But for starters, I suggest picking up a cheap spray bottle at your local big-box store, or maybe a $10-$15 Mr. Mister spray bottle.

Substrate & Decorations

The bottom layer, also called the “substrate,” can be anything like soil, coco coir, coir husk, sand, etc. Choosing the right substrate for your pet is important. Particulate substrates such as sand and small pebbles can have a significant impact on frogs on their own. If you’ve already done your research, you’ve probably heard of someone mentioning impaction.

Learn more about the common substrates used in frog enclosures →

Impaction occurs when your frog or other reptile accidentally consumes something they cannot digest. Over time, it accumulates in their stomachs and causes extensive damage, usually resulting in death. For this reason, I always recommend particle-free substrate. There are mixes that combine soil, coconut fiber, peat moss, and sand. The sand is well mixed together. With these mixes you will generally have no problems with impaction.

If you decide to put live plants in your frog’s enclosure, substrate mixes such as ABG-Mix are well suited for cultivation. Another problem you will encounter is water drainage. To do this, use a water-retaining layer on the bottom (like hydroballs), a substrate barrier (screen mesh), and then the substrate on top. This type of setup will prevent your substrate from getting soggy.

Cork bark “flats” and “rounds” are great! Find out more about the popular types of wood for frog enclosures →

As you can imagine, there are hundreds of decorations available. Everything from hidden holes to waterfalls and everything in between. Among the most popular decorations are branches and tree trunks. Real or fake, they offer climbing, hiding and shade. You can sterilize certain types of terrarium wood, which reduces setup costs. If not, buying from a pet store is another option.

dietary supplements

Not only do you need to consider how to acquire your frog’s favorite foods, you also need to become familiar with “dusting” vitamin and mineral supplements. In the wild, frogs consume a variety of insects to meet their dietary needs. However, in captivity it is simply not possible to feed them everything they would normally find in the wild. For this reason, vitamin and mineral supplements are used.

For most frogs, a calcium supplement is dusted onto their primary food source at each feeding. In addition, the vitamin preparation can be given 1-2 times a week. Again, this is just the starting point. How often you give your pet frog supplements depends on the species and the individual frog.

The term “dusting” is often heard in the reptilian and amphibian world. It refers to “pollinating” insects with the supplement powders mentioned above. The most common method is to put a few crickets in a small bag, add the supplement powder, and finally shake the bag for a few seconds. The side dishes cover the crickets, aka “dusting.”

Aside from dust generation, you should also consider the noise factor. The most common food source is crickets, and they are noisy. Do you want to buy or breed crickets? Are you or the people you live with also bothered by loud crickets?

Amphibian Safe Water

All amphibians have semi-permeable skin. That is, they pick up things that come in contact with their skin. Take water for example, amphibians absorb the oxygen contained in the water. Because of this, most can remain submerged for long periods of time and some can remain submerged indefinitely; water frogs. Frogs swimming in chlorinated tap water also absorb the chlorine. Along with other toxins in the water. Because of this, care should be taken to provide frogs with safe, high-quality water.

Amphibians prefer unpolluted water with natural minerals and a neutral pH. If you are interested in this topic, I recommend reading our guide to safe water for amphibians. Ultrapure water, such as distilled water, lacks the minerals it would normally be exposed to in nature. Luckily for us, there are water conditioners that are readily available online and at your local pet supply store. Products like ReptiSafe should be added to tap water before use.

thermometer hygrometer

Perhaps one of the most valuable items you can buy for your frog’s enclosure is a thermometer-hygrometer. They are worth the $10-$15 you pay for them. I suggest finding a digital thermometer-hygrometer combo that will show the temperature and humidity. After all, what’s the point of misting your pet’s enclosure if you don’t know the relative humidity? Likewise with the temperature.

Why frogs make great pets

Frogs are awesome; They make fantastic show pets. If you like the great outdoors, including plants, flowers, moss and frogs, a close-to-nature vivarium with colorful tree frogs might be perfect for you. Crazy with her enclosure.

Personally, I just completed a bioactive vivarium for three red-eye tree frogs. It has two beautiful Mopani wood pieces that stand out against the background with a small waterfall, eight different types of plants and real moss. I just introduced isopods and am waiting for the springtails to arrive. I’m going to a ReptiCon this June to (hopefully) find three Red-Eyed Tree Frogs. It was a fun build and I love looking at it! If you enjoy this, I bet you will love holding frogs too.

While most frogs should not be handled, there are some species that will tolerate it. The white tree frog (dumpy frog) is one of the most popular species for this reason. Also, they look really cool and grow quite big. But for the most part, frogs shouldn’t be handled very often. It’s just fun to watch them.

Here are some care tips and assembly instructions for keeping your child’s frog in a jar. However, this should only be a temporary home.

My childhood memories include the joy and pride I felt every time I collected bees, lizards and various beetles in jars. My friends and I have been working hard to compete with each other to see who can catch the most animals.

Frogs have never been among my favorite collectibles; but later in life, when I became a parent to two sons, I had to temporarily learn how to hold a frog in a jar.

First, know what you’re getting yourself into

According to Frogs and Toads of the Southeast, anyone who decides to have a frog as a pet should know how to care for them in captivity. Some frogs make good pets and some don’t. Not all frogs can adapt to captive conditions. However, certain species can adapt well if properly cared for.

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Also, you (and your child) should be aware that petting or playing with a frog is in no way like interacting with hamsters and parakeets, as frogs don’t always make likeable pets.

Frogs in captivity can be dangerous to their owners. Frogs in captivity can develop diseases that can be transmitted to humans. Many frogs or toads have skin toxins that can irritate the eyes, nose, or mouth. Washing hands with soap before and after handling an amphibian is a must. Always handle a frog gently to reduce stress on the animal and the amount of toxins it releases.

How to keep a frog in a jar

Many people, young and old, would like to have the opportunity to hold a frog in a jar at some point in their lives. I think it’s a great learning experience for our kids to catch, feed and care for different species of animals. Therefore, all parents should know how to quickly build a safe living space for small pets like this one.

But…remember that the jar should only be a temporary home (just a few days) until a larger, more suitable “frog pad” is established, or until you release the frog back into the wild.

Here are some simple instructions for setting up your temporary terrarium:

Start with a large jar with a lid. Wash and rinse well, dry both parts and screw the lid onto the jar. Use a hammer and nail to punch holes in the lid (for air). Six to eight holes should be enough. Remove the lid from the jar. Place the jar on its side on the ground and then spread gravel on the bottom of the jar. Place some moss, ferns, and lichen over the gravel. Pour some water in, making sure not to cover the back of the arrangement. Place a dried twig in the jar. Now simply put the lid back on and place your frog’s new home in a slightly lit area.

what to feed

Feed your new pet frog a few insects every other day – dead or alive, but preferably alive. Grasshoppers, spiders and beetles are among the frogs’ favorites.

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The majority of frogs and toads eat a smorgasbord of wobbly and wobbly crawly delights…stuff that sends most people screaming. We’re talking worms (bloodworms, mealworms, wax figures), beetles, flightless flies, crickets and grasshoppers. So get ready if you’re squeamish.

feed how much First, try providing two or three live crickets and see what happens. When these insects disappear quickly, you’ll know you’re on the right track. You don’t want to overfeed the frog.

In summary, caring for a pet frog in a jar is not all that difficult. If you’re a parent, it might take a little patience and willpower to pull it off, but once you know exactly how to hold a frog in a jar — and see the joy in your child’s eyes — you’ll likely realize that it’s well worth the effort.

Additional Resources

Photo: WhitA/Flickr (top); Stephen Barnett/Flickr

In this guide I will show you the basics of setting up a terrarium for land frogs. When I mention “terrestrial,” I’m referring to species best suited for walking on land. Most “true toads” (Bufonidae species) fall into this category, but there are some frogs that are suitable for this type of enclosure.

The species of anura (frog and toad) that go into such an enclosure are often the species that do not climb, jump very high, or require as much water as other frogs.

Remember this is a guide to setting up a simple land frog enclosure. It is not intended for a specific species of frog, as each species has its own needs. For example, American toads, Pacman frogs, or tomato frogs would all fit nicely into the example below, but if you’re creating an enclosure for an Asian horned frog, you might want to change that setup by adding a layer of drainage and adding more leaf litter.

Use this guide as an example. Read the full care guides to learn more about the species you want to keep as a pet, then customize the enclosure to suit their needs.

Basic tank setup for terrestrial frogs and toads

In this build I used this Exo Terra Terrarium, but you can use an “aquarium” or a breeding tank. It’s hard to say which is better and what size you need. It all depends on the species and how many you keep.

As a general rule, most keepers recommend at least 10 gallons per frog. This means if you want to keep 3 frogs in one enclosure you will need a 30 gallon tank. I tend to agree with this rule. While you can provide a smaller enclosure for small species like fire-bellied toads, something larger is needed for elf frogs. To risk sounding like a broken record, the size depends on the species. Anyway, without further delay, here’s how to set up a cage for land frogs and toads.

Image Description Exo Terra Terrarium 24x18x18 (large)

Ideal for housing 3-4 frogs. It has a front-opening door, air vents, and a screen lid. Exo Terra Outback Terrarium 24x18x12 (large)

Ideal for 3-4 frogs. It’s the same as the terrarium listed above, except it’s only 12″ tall. Zilla Critter Cage (15 Gallons)

This is a smaller tank where you can keep 1-2 frogs. It comes with a strainer lid.

Step 1: Choosing your case

Choosing your cage is the first step. A standard glass tank (often referred to as an “aquarium”) is convenient and inexpensive. The difference between an aquarium and a terrarium is its content. A glass container with water is called an aquarium, while the same glass container with substrate, plants, and decorations is called a terrarium. Now that we’re on the same page, I’ll show you two really good toad cage terrariums.

Beautiful and affordable, the Zilla Critter Cage is a great option. They are available in 10 gallon and 15 gallon and all come with a strainer lid. They’re not huge, but there’s enough room for at least one medium-sized toad. If you go for this one, I suggest the 15 gallon critter cage.

If you want to go one step further, I recommend an Exo Terra terrarium. Specially designed for reptiles and amphibians, these terrariums feature front-opening doors that allow you access to the interior. There are ventilation openings under the doors that allow fresh air to circulate. They come with lockable strainer lids that have special holes to allow cables or hoses to exit at the top. Most of them have foam backgrounds which look great and also hide cables and hoses. These are my personal favourites; I recommend a 24″ x 18″ x 18″ Exo Terra.

Step 2: Clean the terrarium

After you’ve bought and unpacked your frog’s new enclosure, it’s a good idea to clean it first. Use distilled water and paper towels. Be careful not to use cleaning products with chemicals as these can be harmful to amphibians. Our only goal is to remove any dust that may have accumulated on the glass before you bought it.

Also, it is a good idea to place your terrarium where you intend to keep it. It gets very difficult after everything else is added.

Step 3: Add the substrate

For most setups, the next step is to add the substrate to the terrarium. Things like eco soil and plantation soil, which are substrates made from coconut shells, are great for most amphibians. Mixtures of soil, vermiculite, and peat moss also work well.

Substrate tips for toad habitats:

Use a loose substrate such as coconut fiber (organic soil, Exo Terra plantation soil)

Use sturdy decorations so the toad doesn’t knock them over

Sturdy, living plants should be moved out of the way

If you’re using live plants, consider using an ABG mix and adding a grow light

See the Substrate Guide for more information on this topic.

Many frogs like to dig. Therefore, depending on the size of your pet, the substrate should be 2 to 4 inches deep.

About Drainage Layers If the frog you’re keeping requires high humidity, I recommend adding a drainage layer before adding your substrate. If a lot of water is involved, it’s a good idea to make sure the water drains properly so the substrate doesn’t get soggy. Again, this doesn’t apply to most setups. If you are certain that you do not need a drainage layer, you can skip the rest of this step and go to step 4. A terrarium with a piece of Matala filter on the bottom. To set up a drainage layer, fill the bottom of the cage with hydroballs or use a Matala filter. I can’t stress how much I prefer using Matala to Hydroballs. I’ve used hydroballs before and they work great, I happen to prefer Matala filters. You’ll have to cut it to the size of your terrarium, but it’s the best material for supporting your substrate while allowing water to pool underneath. After adding the bottom layer, the next layer is a substrate barrier; a piece of mesh material that lets water through but keeps your substrate above the bottom layer. Once you have your drainage layer and mesh barrier in place, you can add the substrate. Again, the need for a drainage layer is rare for a terrestrial species. It is only a recommendation if the frog you are keeping requires very high humidity and your substrate is at risk of becoming waterlogged.

Step 4: Create “Hiddens”.

The next step is to create hiding spots. This can be achieved by using hollow logs like the one in the picture above. Cork bark sheets and branches are other popular items used to craft hides.

When I set up this terrarium (the one in the pictures) I didn’t make it for a specific species. In fact, I made this with just a few things I had left over; to give you an example of how to build your cage. If I were to create an enclosure for a toad I would make at least 2 skins. One of them would be a “moist skin” with peat moss.

Step 5: Add the water dish

In most cases, a small or medium-sized bowl of water will suffice. The one I used was way too big, but it’s all I had at the moment. If you have an x-sized water bowl it will work, but something smaller is usually better.

The water depth is crucial. The main goal is to allow your frog to water its skin as it sees fit; they shouldn’t have to go swimming for it. In short, keep the water flat no matter the size of your water bowl.

Most importantly, for a habitat for large toads or frogs, a water bowl should be sturdy. It must be securely in place; Don’t let it, just put it in the case and go to the next step. Make sure it’s firmly in place. Add some substrate around it. Buy (or build) a water bowl that is heavy.

Step 6: Add plants and decorations

In this build I added golden pothos plants and some leaf litter. If you decide to use real plants, prepare in advance by purchasing a low wattage LED grow light. Also, give the plants several weeks to establish themselves.

Alternatively, you can leave the plants in their containers. Just make sure you replace their potting soil and flush the plants first. I recommend doing this to remove unwanted chemicals. Because toads love to dig, it’s important to protect the roots of live plants by leaving them in containers or placing them where your pet is least likely to dig.

View from above

Fake plants and other decorations are great. Examine the decorations to make sure they don’t have any sharp edges or anything that could be harmful. Don’t overdo it either. Leave enough open ground for digging.

Leaf litter is rarely required but always a welcome addition to any terrarium. Leaves create additional hiding places that make your toad feel safe. Oak and magnolia leaves are among the most popular alternatives due to their large size and slow decomposition.

peat moss. I recommend getting a small packet of peat moss and placing it on the substrate in one of the corners. Peat moss is great for retaining moisture. It’s also a great hideaway.

Step 7: Fog the case

After everything is set up, spray the enclosure thoroughly. This will help the substrate absorb some water and increase the humidity in the cage.

Introduce your frog to its new home

Now all you have to do is introduce your frog to its new enclosure. I recommend being as gentle and patient as possible. In most cases, your pet will be in a small plastic container. Place the container in the terrarium and remove the lid to allow them to venture into their habitat on their own. As soon as you notice that your frog is no longer in the plastic container, you can remove it from the cage.

I hope you found this guide helpful! If you enjoyed it or know someone who will, please consider sharing this post with family and friends. Thanks very much!

Red-eyed tree frogs are probably the most well-known frogs in the world. Certainly among tree frogs, to say the least. With their big red eyes, orange feet, and light green skin with blue sides, it’s no wonder they’re so popular. They also make great pets.

I don’t recommend them for beginners, but they’re not very difficult to maintain either. That’s what this guide is for, showing you how to properly care for red-eyed tree frogs.

In this care sheet, I recommend cage sizes, show you all the supplies you need, explain the best way to feed them, and teach you how to breed them.

Also, I encourage you to read the “In the wild” section at the bottom of this page to learn where RETFs (Red-Eyed Tree Frogs) come from and how they behave in their natural environment.

Red-eyed tree frog cage setup

Setting up a RETF terrarium is fairly easy. You will need a tall terrarium that is at least 18″ tall. I recommend an 18″ x 18″ x 24″ terrarium if possible that can hold up to 4 tree frogs. A 12″ x 12″ x 18″ will also work and will hold between 1 – 2 frogs. Tree frogs are social creatures, so it’s best to keep at least two of them together in the same enclosure.

Here is a list of all the items you will need to set up a red-eyed tree frog terrarium.

12″ x 12″ x 18″ or 18″ x 18″ x 24″ terrarium

Heating – heating mat or eel lamp

– Heating mat or eel lamp small, shallow bowl of water

Hygrometer thermometer

Twigs, sticks, tree trunks

plants and/or vines

substrate

Calcium and vitamin supplements

That should cover the basics. When setting up the enclosure, place branches strategically to give your frogs plenty of room to climb. Depending on your preference, live or artificial plants are welcome. Jungle Vines are also helpful.

Between the vines, plants, and branches, your main goal is to provide many areas of claim.

A young RETF resting on a plant.

These tree frogs love to sleep on leaves. Mine tend to prefer thin leaves, but I’ve seen them sleep on basically every plant leaf in their enclosure at one point or another.

Related: The 3 Best Tree Frog Starter Kits

Place a small, shallow bowl of water in the cage. They aren’t great swimmers and don’t need a lot of water. Regarding the water bowl, most will do as long as the water is shallow. I use an extra large Exo Terra water bowl because I only have more available at the moment.

Be careful to keep the water in the bowl shallow. They drink drops of water that collect on the leaves in the terrarium, the water bowl is only for soaking their skin.

lighting

Because these frogs are nocturnal, special UVB lighting is not required. UVB may offer small benefits to vitamin D3, but I have yet to find a study to prove it. So RETFs do not need UVB.

However, you need a constant day-night rhythm. If you happen to place your enclosure in a room with little or no sunlight through a window, then you need to give them light. A day-night cycle can consist of 12-14 hours of light and 10-12 hours of darkness.

Another reason you may need lighting is for live plants. Again, no special lighting is required for the frogs, but certain plants do require a grow light. I recommend a low wattage LED grow light. UVB is fine as long as it’s weak; I personally wouldn’t use anything above 2.0.

temperature

The recommended daytime temperature ranges from the upper 70’s to the mid 80’s. At night the heat can drop to the low 70s without concern. That means you need a heater.

I am currently using an old eel lamp I had laying around. It makes the top part of the terrarium 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Towards the bottom of the case, the temperature drops to the upper 70’s.

At night I turn off the sunlight and let the room temperature in her enclosure drop to the low 70’s. This is only temporary until I get a heating pad.

During the day: 22 – 26 °C

Nighttime: 68 – 75°F

Whether you’re using a sun lamp or a heating pad, just do your best to create a temperature gradient in its enclosure. This gives your red-eyed tree frogs the freedom to move to a warmer or cooler part of the terrarium as they please.

It’s always a good idea to pair a heater with a thermostat. A thermostat helps regulate the temperature, but turns off the heating (lamp, radiant heater, heating mat, etc.) when the temperature reaches a certain level.

substrate

Choosing a substrate really depends on what you want to achieve. For a basic RETF setup with artificial plants, I recommend using a coir substrate. Adding coconut husk and peat moss to the coco fiber substrate is another option, but certainly not required.

Should you decide to set up a vivarium that uses live plants, I recommend trying an ABG mix; something designed for growing plants.

Using an ABG mix works best when you include microfauna and leaf litter, which is by no means a requirement for caring for red-eyed tree frogs. If this interests you, I encourage you to read the vivarium substrate section of my frog enclosure substrate guide and do more research on the subject.

water quality

As with all amphibians, water quality in their enclosure is important. Frogs have semi-permeable skin that allows them to ingest things through their skin. This means that the chemicals left on your hands can transfer to your frog when you handle them. In addition, chemicals in the water also affect your pet.

Tap water is often treated with chemicals such as chlorine, fluoride and chloramine. They are designed to purify the water and make it more suitable for human consumption.

Unfortunately, it can be harmful to amphibians. So I recommend reading a guide to safe water for amphibians, or if nothing else, using a water conditioner like ReptiSafe. These agents dechlorinate the water, making it safe for frogs.

All your RETF needs is a small, shallow water bowl filled with clean, dechlorinated water. Be sure to change the water when it gets dirty.

humidity

Humidity can vary throughout the day. Many people argue that these frogs thrive better in high humidity, while others claim that moderate humidity with occasional spikes works best. I tend to agree with the latter.

On mine, I do my best not to let the relative humidity fall below 50%. Spray twice a day or as much as needed to keep humidity levels within recommended levels.

Humidity between 60% – 85%

From my experience, Red-Eyed Tree Frogs enjoy moderate humidity levels with a nice humidity surge once a day. That means increasing the humidity to 80% or 90% every day. You don’t have to hold it that high all the time though.

Nowadays you can automate this process by getting fog systems or installing fog machines with a separate hydrotherm to start and stop the device as needed. These products are not needed unless you have a hard time keeping humidity levels within recommended parameters. A simple spray bottle will do.

I suggest investing in a good quality hygrometer thermometer and monitoring the temperature and humidity throughout the day. Spray as often as needed to keep humidity above 50% at all times. Make a heavy mist every day to increase the humidity to around 90%.

Red-Eyed Tree Frog Diet

Feeding a red-eyed tree frog in captivity is easy but tricky. In the wild, they naturally feed on a variety of insects including crickets, moths, flies, etc. Providing them with such a diet in captivity is simply not plausible. What you will likely do is feed them insects, which you can easily get at a local pet store.

Crickets are the main diet of a captive RETF.

This is where it gets kind of tricky. You see, RETFs are very picky eaters. They don’t eat mealworms or waxworms, at least mine never did. I remember one day I ran out of crickets and was left with small mealworms and waxworms. So I quickly dusted them with supplements, placed them in a shallow dish and placed them in the terrarium.

Since it had been 48 hours since their last cricket feeding, I assumed they would like to eat the mealworms. nope You didn’t touch her. They went 4 days without eating.

This is partly due to their stubbornness and my online ordering of crickets went poorly. So I went to the pet store and got them more crickets.

What’s that supposed to mean? While they can and likely will eat a variety of insects, they are picky eaters who prefer crickets. Provide them with appropriately sized crickets. Juvenile red-eyes will readily eat small or pinhead crickets, while adults may eat medium to large sized crickets.

I feed my 2-3 crickets every other day. Before feeding, charge the crickets well and dust them with calcium and vitamin supplements.

It’s important that they get supplemental calcium as they don’t get much natural sunlight in captivity. A low wattage UVB lamp might be beneficial but I do not recommend it.

Dust the crickets with calcium powder at each feeding and you should be fine. As for the vitamin supplements, I get them 2-3 times a week.

Breeding Red-Eyed Tree Frogs

As with so many other frogs, most of the time it will require recreating their natural environment to get them to breed. This is accomplished by mimicking the winter months and eventually transitioning into spring, which is the breeding season. With any luck, your red-eyed tree frogs will mate and leave you with the rewarding experience of raising tadpoles.

sex determination

The first step in the whole process is to make sure you have both male and female tree frogs. This should only be attempted with adults as it is nearly impossible to tell the difference in adolescents. Adult females are larger and bulkier than males.

A female grows up to 3 inches in length while males typically grow between 2 and 2.5 inches. Another way to tell is with the wedding upholstery; Males have brown mating pads. They are at the base of the pads; the

could essentially be described as her thumbs. Last but not least, males call or squawk while females remain silent.

pairing

Restoring the natural environment for a RETF is difficult only during the rainy season. The best way to do this is to place them in a rain chamber with a full water floor.

Tropical plants should be placed over the water and many land areas can be added in case the frogs fall into the water. Cork bark boards are perfect for this. Also, the water doesn’t have to be very deep. It is important to simulate rain, hence the need for the “rain chamber”.

Start by recreating the winter months for 30 to 60 days. Reduce the temperature in the enclosure by 5 degrees and stop fogging as often. Allow the humidity to drop during this time.

Also, if possible, decrease their daylight hours by 1-2 hours per day and reduce feeding. Be careful not to overdo this; Always examine your frogs to make sure they are healthy.

When you’ve done this for 1-2 months, it’s time to start the rainy season; This is where the rain chamber comes into play. Make sure the water temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Get a cheap aquarium water heater if you have to.

With the rain system installed and operational, add the males and females to the enclosure. The temperature should be back to normal, between 25-30°C during the day. Your diet should also return to normal.

Mating occurs most often when there is competition from other males. If possible, use 2 males for each female.

Red-Eyed Treefrog Eggs

With a bit of luck, the males will start calling within the first few days. Breeding should occur within a week. If not, take the frogs out and put them back in their normal enclosure for a few days. During this time, increase the amount of food you give them.

The females lay their eggs on overhanging leaves. Because of this, it is important to have plenty of tropical plant foliage in the breeding enclosure. Perform partial water changes throughout the process to ensure the water is clean.

Once you see the eggs, you should remove the adult frogs and place them back in their normal enclosure. The eggs develop and the tadpoles wiggle freely within 7 days.

Tadpoles & Froglets

Once the tadpoles fall into the water, they remain motionless for several days. When they start moving, you should start doing partial water changes. Keep the water temperature around 75°F. The water can be between 2 and 3 inches deep.

Feed the tadpoles cooked baby spinach, water frog and tadpole food, or nutrient-dense leafy greens. Just a pinch every day. Scatter the food over the water and observe the tadpoles for the next 3-4 hours.

Some hobbyists report benefits from using frozen mosquito larvae. You can find them in a freezer at most pet stores. This should not be the primary source, however, as a tadpole’s gut prefers plant foods until metamorphosis begins.

If the tadpoles eat whatever you give them the first time, give them a little more food next time. Otherwise, remove the leftover food.

When their front legs are developing and small pads are evident, customize their enclosure with a screen topper. It won’t be long before they can scale the walls of their enclosure. Place a piece of cork bark in the water. You will soon be able to go ashore.

Since their tails disappear entirely, they can be placed in separate containers. Transfer them to an enclosure with a water bowl and high humidity; don’t let them get too dry. Feed them pinhead crickets or flightless fruit flies. Dust your diet with calcium and vitamin supplements.

After a few weeks, transfer the young red-eyed tree frogs to their final terrariums.

Dealing with Red-Eyed Tree Frogs

Frogs are delicate amphibians; I don’t recommend keeping them. The occasional fiddling doesn’t hurt, but it’s best to just watch and watch. Their cage will need occasional cleaning, which is not a problem.

I recommend scooping them into a separate plastic container and setting them aside while you do a thorough cleaning. However, for easy cleaning, it is not necessary to put them in a separate container. Just do your best not to stress your pet frog and he’ll be fine!

frequently asked Questions

This section aims to answer some of the most common questions about red-eyed tree frogs and keeping them as pets.

Do red-eyed tree frogs like to be held? Not really. Most amphibians do not tolerate the treatment well, with few exceptions. If you just can’t help it and want to hold your RETFs, just do it for a few minutes every few weeks. Make sure your hands are clean (no soap or chemical residue) and damp. Don’t let them fall out of your hands and get hurt or lost. Are Red-Eyed Tree Frogs Good for Beginners? Not really. A beginner-friendly frog I find to be hardy and their enclosures cheap and uncomplicated. Red-eyed tree frogs require a medium-sized, vertical enclosure with heating elements and a narrow temperature and humidity range. It can get expensive. Don’t let me discourage you friend. Please do your research before you buy a red-eyed tree frog – that’s all! How hard is it to care for a red-eyed tree frog? Once the enclosure is established, RETFs are not difficult to care for. The most complicated part is creating its case. You must ensure that the temperature and humidity are within the recommended window. Day and night cycles are also important. Do red-eyed tree frogs need a water bowl? Yes! The size of the water bowl isn’t important as long as the water is shallow and there are plenty of opportunities for your frogs to climb out. Do red-eyed tree frogs croak? Yes. Male RETFs croak during mating to attract a mate. In a captive habitat, you may not hear them unless the environment mimics the rainy season. How much do red-eyed tree frogs cost? You can find them for $30-$50 in most places. Rare morphs are more expensive – I’ve seen them go up to $200.

In the wilderness

Red-eyed tree frogs (Agalychnis callidryas) are part of the genus Agalychnis inhabiting regions of Central and South America. They belong to the Hylidae family, which means they are considered true tree frogs. Tree frogs are arboreal species that, as the name suggests, spend most of their lives in trees.

Their genus Agalychnis contains 6 species. All are very similar to the RETF in appearance but with minor differences.

The RETF can be found from Veracruz through Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama and northwestern South America. They inhabit rainforests where the average daily temperature is between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. They are nocturnal and spend most of their time awake at night.

During the day they sleep on leaves to hide their bright colors.

The eyelids of a red-eyed tree frog.

TLDR; Red-eyed tree frog grooming

Red-eyed tree frogs are some of the most well-known frogs in the world because of their bright green, orange, blue, and red coloring. Because of this, they are popular with amphibian hobbyists.

Keeping them as pets is an enjoyable experience, but it requires careful planning when building their enclosure. They need a tight range of temperature and humidity, and a vertical enclosure with lots of branches and foliage to hide in.

I recommend RETFs to intermediate reptile/amphibian keepers, but beginners can handle them just fine as long as they are careful and do a lot of research.

Tips The breeding pair may eat and drink little during the hibernation.

Warnings Give the adult frogs plenty of food when you place them in the rearing tank, as once they become active they will likely be hungry. You don’t want the woman cannibalizing her partner.

Pacman frogs (also known as Argentine horned frogs) are not difficult to breed in captivity. Before mating, the pair requires a 60-day hibernation period in a dry, cool environment. Oviposition and hatching should follow within a few days.

Identify an adult male and female Pacman frog. Males are 1 to 3 inches smaller than females and usually vocalize when handled or sprayed.

Place the pair in a terrarium or tank with a peat moss substrate. Keep the temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Prepare a shallow bowl of water, but do not spray or mist the tank. Maintain the frogs in this environment for two months.

Move the frogs to a tank filled with water shallow enough for them to rest on the bottom and still breathe. Add aquatic plants for the female to attach eggs to. Also, provide an area out of the water that the frogs can easily reach.

Spray the frogs with water several times a day to simulate rain. According to Ernie Wagner’s article “Breeding Horned Frogs” published on Melissa Kaplan’s Herp Care Collection website, the female should lay eggs within four days.

Return the adult frogs to their respective normal habitats and add water to the tank with the eggs. According to Wagner, they should hatch within three days.

Separate the tadpoles into individual tanks as soon as they hatch. Pacman frogs are voracious eaters and often prey on each other. Even if you provide plenty of crickets, mealworms, and other food, you’re likely to lose some of the tadpoles if you keep them all together.

Some people have compared her to Jabba the Hutt for her ravenous appetites and fat buns. Others say their smiling faces and kind eyes are adorable. I think that white tree frogs (Litoria caerulea) are a bit of both. Sometimes they’re so voracious they’ll eat anything, but they always do it with a cute tree frog face that can charm almost anyone. These charismatic traits, coupled with the frog’s hardiness and low maintenance, have made White’s Treefrogs one of the most popular amphibians to keep as pets.

Big and adorable

The Litoria genus includes 181 species of frogs, all native to Australia and the surrounding island nations. Many are arboreal and have a typical hylid body structure: their eyes are forward, they have sticky toe pads, and their body structure is suited to surface life. Some species are also semiaquatic. At first glance, these appear more like ranids, having webbed feet, powerful hind legs, dorsolateral lines, and enlarged tympanic membranes.

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Photo by Devin Edmonds Both novice and experienced amphibian hobbyists can enjoy white tree frogs.

White tree frog fits well into the Litoria tree species category. These large frogs grow to almost 4 inches in length and are also often referred to as “dumpy treefrogs” or “Australian green treefrogs” in addition to the more commonly used common name White’s Treefrog. Typically, they vary from green to brown dorsally, and some individuals appear jade or even turquoise. Tiny patches of white may dot the backs of some individuals. Like many other tree frogs, white tree frogs are able to change color depending on environmental conditions. Light intensity, temperature, and humidity can all play a role in the colors displayed. Two “lines” of White’s tree frogs are in the pet trade. One, blue in colour, is from Australia; the other, often pear to olive green in color, comes from Indonesia.

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Keeping white tree frogs in captivity is not difficult. They greedily eat all common food insects and their housing requirements are easy to meet. If purchased in good health, kept in the appropriate environment, and fed an appropriate diet, they are quite hardy. They have been documented as living in captivity for more than 20 years.

The white tree frog enclosure

Although white tree frogs are inactive during the day, at night they use all the space you give them. Adults will need an enclosure no smaller than a standard 20 gallon aquarium. A 30 gallon tall aquarium will work for a trio. Place growing hatchlings in smaller enclosures, such as a standard 5 or 10 gallon aquarium so they can easily find food. Good air circulation is important to a frog’s long-term health, so use a privacy screen to ensure adequate ventilation in any tree frog enclosure.

Ad Photo by Devin Edmonds This Australian blue-and-white tree frog’s forward-facing eyes are a feature of hylid frogs.

Paper towels are the easiest substrate to use. Although they are not particularly pleasant to look at, they are hygienic, practical and safe. Wet several plates with dechlorinated water and then place them on the aquarium floor. In a large enclosure with a single frog, the paper towels may only need to be changed weekly. In smaller enclosures with multiple frogs, you’ll want to rotate them every day.

Two alternatives to this sterile substrate option are ground coconut husk fiber and long-fiber peat moss (not to be confused with green forest moss, which I do not recommend for these frogs). If you use either one, make sure it stays wet so it doesn’t stick to the frogs. At the same time, it must not be saturated with water. Be sure to clean up spots frequently by removing feces, dead feeder insects, or other debris on a daily basis. In this case, the substrate only needs to be replaced every two to three months.

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Photo by Devin Edmonds Advertisement A mesh cover provides ventilation in this 37 gallon aquarium for White’s Treefrogs. Artificial plants attach to the back of the tank with suction cups.

Avoid gravel or small pieces of bark as substrates. White tree frogs can accidentally swallow these while feeding, resulting in a blocked digestive tract.

Position several perches for your frog over the chosen substrate. Cork bark panels can be tilted against a corner in the cage, or a large cork bark tube can be cut and wedged between the sides of the cage. Branched pieces of driftwood, bamboo poles, and plastic PVC pipe segments also make great perches.

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Photo by Devin Edmonds White’s tree frogs utilize all the space available in this 35 gallon aquarium with sphagnum moss substrate.

You can add a plant or two to the frogs’ enclosure to improve aesthetics and maintain humidity. Artificial plants can be sucked to one side of the cage or draped over a branch. Sturdy and supportive live potted plants work equally well. Pothos (Scindapsus aureus) and Chinese periwinkle (Aglaonema spp.) are two good options. Make sure the plants are free of potentially harmful chemicals like pesticides, foliar polishers, and fertilizers by rinsing them under tap water and growing them outside of the cage for several weeks before use. Also, transplant live plants to soil safe for amphibians. An organic one without perlite and vermiculite is recommended.

Photo by Devin Edmonds Charismatic traits have helped White’s Treefrogs become one of the most popular amphibian pets.

To complete the setup, add a large bowl of water to your frog at night. Fill this bowl with tap water that has been treated with an aquarium water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals. Change the water daily.

Forgiving Frogs

In Australia and New Guinea, white tree frogs experience varying temperatures depending on the season, making them particularly hardy captives. As long as temperature changes are gradual, they will tolerate both cool and warm conditions, which will kill more sensitive amphibians.

Ideally, maintain an enclosure between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and temperatures can drop 5 to 10 degrees at night. You can position a low wattage infrared lamp over one end of the case to achieve the appropriate temperature range. Depending on where you live, what your room temperature is, and how cold it gets in the evenings, you may need to leave the lightbulb on 24 hours a day, or you can turn it off at night. Use an accurate thermometer to measure the temperature. A digital thermometer with an external probe is a good choice.

Photo by Devin Edmonds White’s tree frogs experience a range of temperatures in their natural ranges. This makes them forgiving frogs in captivity.

No additional lighting is required other than a heat source as long as there is indirect natural light in the room where the frogs are kept. However, according to some observations, they can develop brighter colors when kept under lighting that emits ultraviolet light. Therefore, one option is to place a UVB-producing bulb designed for amphibians on the screen cage cover. Use an electric timer to keep this light on for 10 to 12 hours a day.

A standard household humidity of between 40 and 60 percent is sufficient for white tree frogs. Not native to humid, tropical rainforests, this frog will feed poorly if kept in consistently high humidity. Instead, mist the enclosure with water every other day to create a temporary increase in humidity, similar to what wild frogs experience after rainfall. I use distilled or reverse osmosis water to avoid water spots on the glass. Adults can cope with dry conditions as long as a bowl of water is available to stay hydrated. Small juvenile fish dehydrate more easily, so consider spraying their enclosures daily. Once frogs are half-grown, you can spray them like adults.

Feeding white tree frogs

I never tire of watching White’s tree frogs eat. They pounce on crickets with lightning speed and, oddly enough, use both hands to stuff large meals into their mouths. You can even hand feed them, just be careful they don’t accidentally get your finger.

As entertaining as it is to watch these frogs eat, it’s important not to overfeed them. Obesity is one of the most common health problems in captive white tree frogs, but it’s easy to prevent. Other nutritional disorders, such as secondary hyperparathyroidism and corneal lipidosis, are also fairly common.

Crickets are readily available at pet stores and can make up the bulk of the diet. Increase their nutritional value by giving them a good charge for at least two days before offering them to your frogs. Sliced ​​oranges, sweet potatoes, squash, carrots, flake fish food, and prepared cricket diets are good options for replenishing feeder insects.

Photo by Devin Edmonds White’s tree frogs are able to change color depending on environmental conditions.

To provide a varied diet that will help ensure all dietary requirements are met, feed White’s tree frogs a different prey every few feedings. Earthworms, cockroaches, moths, houseflies, waxworms, and silkworms are excellent for this purpose. If you can’t find these at your local pet store, try a bait shop, herp expo, or online insect food specialty company. Place worms and insect larvae in a bowl so they don’t burrow into the substrate.

In addition to invertebrates, adult white tree frogs also accept thawed small mice dangling in front of their heads. These may be fed at most once a month; Otherwise, health problems such as obesity can develop.

How often you feed your tree frogs depends on both the age of the frog and how much food is available. Juveniles can be fed in small amounts (one to three crickets per frog) daily, but adults should be fed less frequently and in slightly larger amounts. Six crickets every three to four days per adult frog is sufficient. Avoid offering frogs food longer than the width of their heads. Juveniles may eat larger foods like large crickets and earthworms, but it’s best to avoid anything too large. Older frogs may eat small mice, nocturnal crawlers, and other frogs.

A critical aspect of a white tree frog’s diet is vitamin and mineral supplementation. Two powdered supplements are required to ensure long-term health. One should consist of calcium and vitamin D3 and the other should be a general multivitamin. Frogs that are not fully grown should lightly coat their food with these supplements before most feedings. Adults should lightly dust their food with a side dish every other feeding. For best results, alternate between calcium vitamin D3 and multivitamin supplements. Also, make sure you replace supplements every six months as they degrade in air.

Breeding white tree frogs

White tree frogs are a great first amphibian to breed as offspring are in high demand and tadpoles are relatively hardy. However, if you are pursuing this endeavor, be prepared to have plenty of small feeder insects around. A pair of these tree frogs can produce hundreds of young in one season.

Examine a frog’s vocal sac to determine if it’s male or female. A man’s vocal sac will appear dark and swollen if he has called regularly. Females also call, but not as often or as intensely. Males are also sometimes slightly smaller than females, but this is not always obvious. A surefire way to sex White’s tree frogs is to examine the forearms of a frog conditioned for breeding. Males ready to mate have darkened mating pads at the base of their thumbs. These are dark brown in color and slightly rough in texture and are used to hold the female in place during breeding.

Although breeding can only be done with a male-female tree frog pair, it’s often best to have a group. Some breeders use twice as many males as females, but this is not necessary. Start by keeping them dry and cool for a month or two. Spray once a week depending on the size of the cage and keep temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees. This conditioning tricks frogs into thinking it’s winter, but remember to only expose healthy, established adults to these conditions as it can be quite stressful.

After this simulated dry period, gradually warm the frogs to normal daytime temperatures over the course of a week or two and begin spraying and feeding them daily.

At this point the males should start calling each night. If you observe females responding quietly, it’s time to move the frogs to a rain chamber to breed. A rain chamber contains a pump that circulates water through a tube that has small holes drilled in it and that hangs near the top of the tank. To simulate rain, turn on the pump so water is pushed through the pipe, out the holes, and onto the frogs in small drops. Use a submersible aquarium heater to heat the water to almost 85 degrees, and provide floating vegetation and pieces of driftwood sticking out of the water for frog poles.

White tree frogs lay eggs on the water surface. If you don’t notice any eggs after a week, return the frogs to their normal habitat, feed them vigorously for several weeks, and try the rain chamber again.

Tadpole care

Tadpoles detach from the eggs after two to three days. Once they are active and swimming sporadically, you can move them out of the rain chamber into aquariums with filtered water heated to a temperature in the low 80’s.

Like adults, tadpoles are not picky eaters. They will happily eat regular fish flakes that can be fed daily. Instead of fish flakes, other foods, such as B. thawed mosquito larvae are offered. Make sure you do frequent partial water changes to maintain high water quality.

Photo by Devin Edmonds As this Australian tree frog demonstrates, its sticky pads of toes help it maintain an arboreal lifestyle.

After four to six weeks, tadpoles will have developed forearms and will climb up the side of the tank to exit the water. It’s a good idea to float a few pieces of cork bark on the water at this time to help the tadpoles crawl out. Move emerging frogs to a separate enclosure that includes a shallow dish of water, moistened paper towel substrate, and a potted plant. A standard 10-gallon aquarium will initially hold up to 25 frogs, but be prepared to size the frogs into other enclosures over the following weeks as they grow.

Once tadpoles have picked up their tails, offer them one to three small crickets each night. Supplement the insects with vitamins and calcium at each feeding.

Something for everyone

White tree frogs are personable, hardy and easy to care for. They make perfect first frogs, but even seasoned amphibian hobbyists will enjoy them. As long as these tree frogs are provided with a healthy diet and proper environmental conditions, they will provide years of enjoyable pets.

color codes

Size matters. Many people choose to keep white tree frogs in groups. This is a great way to show frogs and it’s quite fun to watch them calling and interacting at night. However, because of their endless appetites and cannibalistic tendencies, make sure all frogs housed together are about the same size.

Species matter. Never house white tree frogs with other amphibian or reptile species. Not only can they eat smaller frogs, but by housing different species together, all residents of the enclosure are at risk of having their care compromised due to their different habitat needs.

White’s tree frogs in the wild

In Australia, the white tree frogs range from New South Wales to northern Western Australia. Populations are also scattered in parts of Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. They inhabit dry forests, grasslands, and native areas such as home gardens, cisterns, or even bathrooms.

Photo by Devin Edmonds Indonesian (above) and Australian white tree frogs are available from pet stores.

Because they are primarily nocturnal, White’s tree frogs become active at sunset and begin hunting for food. Wild frogs eat catydids, crickets, beetles, moths and smaller frogs such as desert tree frogs (Litoria rubella).

Breeding takes place in temporary pools during the rainy season from November to February. Using a short, harsh croak, males call repeatedly near these pelvises to attract a mate. The females lay up to 2,000 eggs on the water surface and the eggs sink to the bottom the next day.

Tadpoles develop over the next six weeks and complete metamorphosis before southern winter arrives in June. During the driest part of winter, white tree frogs can form a slimy cocoon and burrow to retain moisture.

health check

Critical to success with any animal is starting with a healthy stock. Here are three questions to ask yourself.

1. Was it bred in captivity? White Tree Frogs imported from Indonesia are regularly available from Herp dealers and pet stores. These wild-caught amphibians are often in poor condition and may succumb to bacterial or parasitic infections during acclimatization. To avoid this, buy captive bred frogs. They are usually better than wild caught animals. In addition, the turquoise-blue white tree frogs from Australia are only available as offspring. So if you want to keep this beautiful color variety, you’ll need to find a breeder or shop that offers captive bred frogs.

2. Does it look unhealthy? Avoid white tree frogs that are showing signs of ill health. Healthy frogs sleep during the day unless food is available or they have been disturbed. Their eyes should be clear and not clouded, and their back coloring should not be blotchy. However, note that it is normal for some individuals to be patterned with small white dots. Examine their skin for any unusual bumps. Nematodes of the genus Dracunculus often infest the skin of wild frogs, causing small swellings. Look at the skin on their belly side. It should be off-white in color without much redness, which can indicate advanced stages of a bacterial infection.

3. What are the conditions? Investigate the keeping conditions of the white tree frogs. If they are not suitable for temporary housing or if other frogs in the enclosure seem unhealthy, consider another source for your tree frog.

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Frogs and toads are wonderful for your garden. They eat many insects such as mosquitoes, snails and beetles. They are also great fun for kids to watch and touch, bringing music to your summer nights. So let’s help them a little by building some frog habitats in our gardens and yards.

For the most part, frogs and toads only need water, shelter, and plenty of insects to live comfortably. For the water source, make sure you use something that the frogs can easily jump in and out of.

Getting in is usually quite easy, getting out is often difficult. Therefore, choose a container that has no steep sides and is not too deep. You can put some rocks in the container as launch pads to help the frogs get out.

These launchers also help any bees that come for water while pollinating your flowers.

It’s a good idea to have several watering holes for frogs in your yard, especially if you have a large yard. In fact, small garden ponds are ideal if you have the space. When setting up a frog pond, consider adding aquatic plants to increase the biodiversity of the pond.

Frogs and toads will continue to return to the waterhole and when it’s dry they’ll have to look elsewhere for water so it would be nice if they didn’t have to travel too far.

Which brings us to another thing, make an effort to keep your frog drinkers filled with water. Frogs and toads will always return to the same water source and if you have a large enough body of water they may lay eggs in it.

We had this for a year with a small children’s pool. So try not to let the pond dry out, just fill it up with fresh water every day.

To make a frog at home, look around your garden shed for a few small garden pots that you’re not using. Turn them on their side and bury them just a little. If using a broken pot, make sure the broken piece is buried and there are no jagged edges that could cut the frog.

Many people use tin cans, just make sure there aren’t any jagged edges sticking out. Also add some soil and leaves to the shelter for the frogs to snuggle up in.

You can paint the garden pot or tins with acrylic paints or use a hot glue gun to glue “jewels” or tiles on top. This is a really fun project for a kid. So if you have kids around, let them build frog shelters to their heart’s content. This is a great winter activity and the shelters will be ready when the snow melts.

Frogs like to have a little jungle to play with. So you don’t have to keep the area around the water station and shelter super tidy. Plant some herbs or other plants and just let them take over. The plants also help keep the areas shaded and cool.

There is also no need to remove fallen leaves. The leaf litter will help create extra moist places for the frogs and toads to hang out. It will also attract insects for the frogs to feed on. Frogs are fantastic at keeping pests out of the garden. Their common prey are grasshoppers, crickets, ants, beetles and other invertebrates.

If you have cats, dogs, or chickens, you must choose your frog habitat location carefully. All of these animals will likely hunt, “play” with, and eat frogs and toads.

Even if they foam at the mouth, dogs eat frogs all summer long. So place your habitat for frogs and toads in an area that is more difficult for these animals to reach.

Remember that frogs and toads have very porous skin and can easily absorb toxins from their environment. For the safety of your frogs, be sparing with the pesticides in your garden, even organic ones.

Finally, there is no need to fill your frog habitat with tadpoles from other ponds or from the pet store. Most tadpoles you can buy are bullfrogs that eat other frogs and toads. Don’t worry, native frogs and toads will find your wildlife habitat naturally if you keep it shady, moist and give them time.

Do you have frog habitats in your yard?

Thank you for sharing!

Many pet websites that make their income from selling pet frog accessories will tell you that you should have a pet frog. But we don’t have any pet frog products that we could sell to you. Here are some reasons to consider before getting a pet frog.

Frogs may not make good pets for some people due to the running costs, live feeding requirements, demanding tank cleaning and habitat requirements, risks to children and other pets, and the frogs’ frail health. Also, frogs don’t like human contact.

I had a pet toad as a child, but it never came into our house. Read to the end of the article to learn how I avoided most of the following issues.

1. A pet frog is more expensive than you think

A pet frog is only $5 to $40 right? Not correct.

A pet frog can initially cost $70 to $330 upfront. This includes soil, a terrarium, plants, some accessories and heat lamps. However, the ongoing annual costs for a pet frog can range from $360 to $520 per year for live food and electricity.

Pet Frog Cost Cost Type Total Frog Acquisition Cost $5-80 Aquarium/Terrarium Acquisition Cost $20-100 Soil Acquisition Cost $15-50 Plants Acquisition Cost $10-20 Supplies (Water Bowl etc.) Acquisition Cost $5-50 Heat Lamps Acquisition Cost $15 $30 Live Food (Crickets) Monthly cost $25 to $100 Electricity Monthly cost $5 to $10 Total initial cost of a pet frog $70 to $330 Total annual cost of a pet frog $360 to $520

Pet frogs eat 5 to 7 crickets a day for about 0.14 cents per cricket, which equates to $20 to $30 a month, just to feed them. That is, if you choose a smaller species, because bullfrogs and pacman frogs eat larger food, including live spiders, mice, and birds, which can cost up to $100 a month.

Check out our complete guide to the cost of a pet frog to learn more

2. You must feed frogs live food

Some places encourage feeding frogs pellets, which is ridiculous as they are obligate carnivores eating whole foods found in the wild. The ideal food for pet frogs includes live invertebrates such as worms, small bugs such as flies, Colorado potato beetles, moths and crickets sprinkled with nutritional supplements to ensure they are getting all the vitamins and minerals they need.

Larger species such as bullfrogs and pacman frogs may also eat larger prey such as small mice and small birds. What frogs eat really depends on their life cycle stage, since tadpoles don’t eat the same thing as adult frogs.

You must purchase live food from a local store or grow it yourself. It is possible to have a pet frog and a small cricket farm as food. Anyway, if you’re not willing to feed your pet frog live food on a daily basis, you might want to reconsider having a pet frog.

Check out our full guide on what frogs eat to learn more

3. Frog tanks require a strict cleaning schedule

A frog terrarium or aquarium requires a lot of maintenance. You must ensure that it includes all components of the frog’s natural habitat at all times, including live plants, specific humidity levels, and heat levels. They must ensure their water and environment are clean and regulated on a daily basis.

If the aquarium gets too humid, fungus can develop which could make your frog sick. If it gets too hot and dry, your frog could die of dehydration. If it is dirty, it can lead to illness and death in your pet. If maintaining your pet’s environment on a daily basis is too exhausting, you might want to reconsider having a pet frog.

Check out our complete guide to the ideal habitat for a frog habitat to learn more

4. Frogs have specific habitat requirements

You cannot place a frog terrarium or aquarium next to a window that gets direct sunlight. This can cause water to evaporate or the tank to overheat. Lack of water or the right type of water, too much heat, and lack of moisture are some things that can kill your pet frog.

A tank should be placed in an air-conditioned room on a stable, level surface that is inaccessible to other pets (such as cats or small children). It should be in a safe place where it cannot be knocked over. The tank must also remain at the recommended temperature and humidity for the species (CTNF).

If you don’t have the ideal home environment for a pet frog, you might want to reconsider the purchase. It is not uncommon for frogs to escape and become lost in homes when kept in unsuitable environments.

5. Pet frogs pose a risk to children

You may find disclaimers similar to this one on pet websites: “All animals may carry viral, bacterial, fungal, and parasitic diseases that are contagious to humans.” Adults are generally aware of this, but children may not. Although they cannot give you warts, frogs can carry salmonella on their skin.

If a child touches a pet frog and puts their hands in their eyes or mouth without washing them, they are at risk of getting sick. It could be even more dangerous if the frog is poisonous. Some frogs will also bite when handled because they feel stressed or think your hand is food. It is important to beware of such risks of injury that frogs pose, even if they are small animals.

Excellent hygiene is required to have a pet frog, including washing hands thoroughly with warm, soapy water before and after handling a frog or its habitat, as the oils on our skin can be irritating to them. Adults should help children wash their hands after contact with a pet or its enclosure.

Check out our full guide on how to properly care for frogs to learn more

6. Pet frogs pose a risk to other pets

If you have a cat or dog, you definitely want to keep them far away from your pet frog. While it can be cute to see these animals interacting with each other, they really shouldn’t. We’ve already discussed that frogs can carry diseases, but remember these diseases can also affect your pets.

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Dogs and cats are curious animals that will often play with frogs or toads if they find them in the wild. You can also eat one, intentionally or unintentionally. Cats or dogs can get sick, throw up, or lose their appetite from eating a frog. Eating a frog can also be fatal to your pet if the frog carries an illness, is sick, or is poisonous.

Check out our full guide to frog robbers to learn more

7. Finding a frog sitter can be difficult

Are you planning to go on vacation for more than a few days? You need to find someone to feed your frog and clean his tank while you’re gone.

A frog is likely to be fine if you leave it with a clean tank, clean water, and adequate food for a few days. But if you’re planning to stay longer than 48 hours, you’ll need someone to clean the tank, add fresh water and food.

If you think finding someone to babysit your cat or dog is difficult, think how difficult it will be for your frog. You have to show the sitter how to clean the tank and take care of your pet, which takes extra time and effort. Some local pet stores offer these services, but they don’t come cheap.

This becomes even more of a problem if you are going away for long periods of time and enjoy going to college, as not all colleges allow pet frogs.

Frogs do not like human contact. The oils, lotions, and dirt on our hands irritate the frogs’ skin. If you pick up a frog, wash your hands with warm, soapy water before and after. You could also use gloves.

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Handle the frog carefully by placing it on dirt in your hand to simulate its natural environment. You can also wet your hands or gloves to give the frog extra protection. Don’t hold him too tightly as this can damage his internal organs. But overall, the less physical contact, the better.

9. You can’t keep them with other frogs

Frogs are solitary animals and if you bring them together you run the risk of them eating each other. Frogs are cannibals and it’s best to keep species together.

If you already have a tank with other animals or fish and plan to add a frog, be careful. Frogs generally try to eat whatever fits in their mouths. So if there are other fish, frogs or pets in the tank that are smaller than them, they run the risk of becoming lunch.

Check out our full guide to whether frogs can get along to learn more

10. Frog diseases are difficult to cure

Frogs can contract or transmit a variety of diseases, including viruses, salmonella, ranavirus (iridovirus) infection, Lucke-Frosch herpesvirus (kidney cancer), red leg disease (bacterial septicemia), dermosporidiosis, and amphibian malformations (source).

Although some frog species can live up to 40 years if well cared for in captivity, poor care shortens their lifespan significantly. Common illnesses, diseases, and injuries that affect pet frogs are due to poor tank hygiene and clean water, dehydration, and fungal growth.

Pet frogs sometimes break their legs irreversibly if not treated properly by their owners. Taking your pet frog to the vet may not help. There are antibiotics for certain amphibian diseases, but many frog diseases have no cure.

Check out our guide on how to tell if a pet frog is dying to learn more

Have a wild pet frog instead

When I was a kid I had a pet toad that never came into our house. It fell well in a window and grew very large after removing all the bugs that were there. The summer I found him, he became my “free-roaming” pet toad: a toad that I kept as an “pet” outdoors.

I made the window look good at his home by adding long sticks so he could easily climb out and roam the yard. I added a pool of water and a bed of leaves. Having a free range frog or toad is a better way to have them as “pets” to avoid many of the problems discussed above. This is a great way to enjoy the company of local frogs while still allowing them to live in their natural environment.

Check out our full guide on how to “pet” a wild frog to learn more

Check out our guides to attracting toads and frogs to a garden so you can enjoy them in their natural habitat:

Considerations if you still want to buy a pet frog

If you have read this article and still want a pet frog then be sure to check out Chewy’s website, they have great pet products. You can find out more here on our website.

Also, before you buy a pet frog, check the following:

Be sure to buy your frog from a reliable source

Make sure it is not a protected species

Make sure the store and the tank it was kept in are clean

Make sure the frog is in good health

Make sure it doesn’t live with too many other frogs

Make sure it doesn’t have any diseases

Make sure it has been checked by a vet before you buy it

Know whether or not to buy a poisonous species

Also, make sure you have the necessary licenses in your jurisdiction

For example, native frogs and amphibians are protected by law in Australia. A biodiversity conservation license issued under the Biodiversity Conservation Act 2016 by the Department for Planning, Industry and Environment (National Parks and Wildlife Service) is required to have one as a pet (source).

So before purchasing a pet frog, speak to a qualified professional, such as a pet shop owner in your jurisdiction, for tailored information.

Questions related to frogs as pets

Are frogs a good pet? Frogs do not make good pets as they dislike human contact, require high aquarium maintenance, and pose a risk to children and other pets. However, frogs can make excellent outdoor pets.

Should you have a pet frog? You shouldn’t have a pet frog if you don’t have time to clean its tank daily or if you don’t want to feed your frog live food (bugs, crickets, mice, spiders). Although a pet frog can be small, it is a big responsibility.

Is it cruel to keep frogs as pets? Frogs should generally not be kept as pets, as it is cruel to treat them carelessly, not to be consistent with their environmental conditions (humidity, heat), and not to keep the aquarium and water supply clean.

Can a frog bite you? A frog may bite you if it thinks your hand is food or if it feels threatened. Frog bites are rarely serious, but wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water as they can transmit salmonella.

Do pet frogs smell bad? Pet frogs do not smell bad, but their surroundings (aquarium, terrarium) can smell bad if not properly cared for on a daily basis. To eliminate or reduce odors, clean out the tank, try a different soil, or add air-purifying plants that are compatible with your pet frog.

Do frogs transmit diseases? Frogs and toads often carry a bacteria called salmonella, which can cause serious illnesses in humans and other pets, including nausea, fever, vomiting and, in rare cases, death.

Land frogs, sometimes called toads, are terrestrial amphibians, unlike their aquatic counterparts. They are relatively easy to care for and can make good pets for both children and adults.

With proper care, land frogs can live anywhere from 5 to 15 years! This guide mainly covers ground-dwelling frogs such as Pacman frogs and tomato frogs.

habitat and housing

The most common housing for land frogs is a glass aquarium or terrarium with a secure umbrella lid.

Most land frogs are ambush predators and lead mainly sedentary lives. This means they don’t typically need as large a cage as some other species of frogs (like tree frogs).

A 10 gallon (20″ x 10″ x 12″) or larger aquarium is suitable for a single Pacman frog or 1-2 tomato frogs. If you are housing more than 2 tomato frogs, you will need at least a 20 gallon (30 “x12″x12″).

Pacman frogs are cannibals and should not be kept together. Multiple frog species should not be kept in the same cage, and frogs should not be housed with other reptile or amphibian species.

substrate (litter)

Coconut bedding is the best choice for frogs as it retains moisture well. It’s also soft to the touch, with no rough edges that could damage her sensitive skin. The substrate should be about 2-3 inches deep and kept moist (but not dripping wet) to encourage stable moisture levels.

A land frog doesn’t drink through its mouth – it absorbs water through its skin!

cage decor

Land frogs spend most of their time burrowing in the substrate, waiting for insects to pass by. They cannot climb, so keep the cage decorations close to the ground. They mostly need open floor space, so cage decoration should be limited to a low piece of bogwood or driftwood and maybe a plastic plant for shelter.

Live plants are usually not the best choice in a land frog’s habitat – their bodies are large and heavy enough that they can crush most species, and they will also uproot plants when digging.

Make sure driftwood or plants are placed stably so they don’t fall over and injure your pet. Also, avoid using cage decor with rough edges that could scratch their skin.

Also, it’s important to avoid driftwood, rocks, or branches found outside. They may contain pathogens that could harm your pet, or have been exposed to pesticides, herbicides, and other chemicals that could be dangerous.

Most natural materials are porous and very difficult to sterilize completely, so it will be much safer for your frog if you only use items that have been professionally cleaned and sterilized that are known to be safe.

Land frogs also need a water bowl large enough for them to climb in and soak when needed. Water must be treated with a dechlorinator and kept clean at all times.

maintenance

Remove soiled bedding and stale food daily. Clean the area several times a week or more often if necessary. The entire cage should be cleaned and disinfected at least monthly.

Clean the enclosure and all decorations with a 3% bleach solution, distilled vinegar and water (50/50), hydrogen peroxide, or pet-safe cleaners.

Other necessary supplies

heating and lighting

Frogs, like all amphibians and reptiles, are cold-blooded (aka cold-blooded) and do not produce their own body heat. A reptile heating pad is the safest and most effective way to provide warmth to your frog. Heat lamps tend to be too dry for most frogs.

The heating pad should be placed under the tank and should not cover more than 1/3 of the bottom of the tank to allow for a temperature gradient within the habitat.

Amphibians rely on the temperature of their environment to heat or cool them. It is important that a habitat has a temperature gradient so that the frog can self-regulate its body temperature.

Daytime temperatures should range between 80-85°F at the warm end of the habitat and 75°F at the cooler end. Nighttime temperatures can drop to 75°F on the warm side and 70°F on the cool side, but should not drop below 70°F at any time.

Frogs are tropical animals and it is important that they have both light and warmth. Most amphibians are nocturnal and do not require UVB lighting. Although UVB is not necessary, low levels are considered beneficial.

To replicate natural light cycles, bulbs that emit white light should be left on 10-12 hours a day and then turned off at night. Timers can be used to turn the light on and off automatically.

Fluorescent lights are the best way to provide your frog with light. Fluorescent lights produce lots of light but very little heat, so they won’t dry out your frog.

diet

Frogs only eat live insects; They do not eat any plants or vegetable matter. Some of the most nutritious feeder insects are well-loaded crickets, roaches, and phoenix worms. You can also use mealworms or waxworms, but these are higher in fat and should be given more as a treat.

Most land frogs should be fed as much as they can eat in 10-15 minutes two to three times a week. As a general guideline, you should not feed your tree frog crickets longer than the distance between their eyes.

Be careful not to have more than a few extra crickets roaming around your frog’s habitat after it’s finished eating. Too many crickets climbing over the frog might stress it out, and hungry crickets might even try to take a bite out of your frog!

Frogs are the healthiest and live longest on an insect-based diet. Some people feed their large frogs mice or goldfish, which are too high in fat and protein and can cause health problems and a shortened lifespan.

Goldfish can also transmit parasites to your frog. Other more nutritious food options for large frogs include roaches or earthworms.

It’s safest to feed your frog insects from the pet store, as there’s a chance that bugs you catch outside may have come into contact with pesticides or other chemicals that could harm your pet.

Addition

There are several ways to give your land frog a better diet through supplementation. Insects should be dusted with a powdered calcium/multivitamin just prior to feeding your frog. Food can be dusted at each feeding for juveniles and once a week for adults.

Insects should also be loaded well. The food insects are fed with nutritious food so that your frog also benefits from it. You could well-load the insects with a variety of fruits and vegetables or with a commercially made cricket food.

hydration

Frogs should always have access to clean, dechlorinated water in a bowl large enough for them to soak in. They often defecate in their water, so the water bowl needs to be cleaned and refilled at least daily (possibly more often if needed).

Humidity is also very important for frogs. In general, the humidity in a frog’s habitat should remain above 50-60%, but it is also important that it does not remain saturated all the time. If it’s too humid, skin infections and other problems can result.

Humidity should naturally fluctuate from low to high throughout the day. It can be easily raised by spraying the frog and its habitat with room temperature, dechlorinated water from a spray bottle. Humidity can rise up to 80-90% immediately after misting and then drop to 50-60% throughout the day.

Misting once or twice a day is usually enough to keep the humidity at the right level. Special foggers for reptiles and amphibians are also available to keep humidity levels high while still allowing airflow.

handling

Frogs have very sensitive skin, and our skin is rough enough to injure it. Any skin oils, lotions or other residue left on our skin can be absorbed through their skin and make them ill. That’s why it’s important to limit the handling of each frog.

If you need to remove them from the cage (e.g. for cleaning) you should wear rubber gloves and be extra gentle.

Signs of a healthy frog

Active and alert

Clear eyes

healthy skin

Eats regularly and maintains weight

Red flags

loss of appetite

weight loss

lethargy

Wounds, bumps, abrasions

References can be found dealing with health issues in land frogs. There are a variety of online resources such as

http://allaboutfrogs.org/info/doctor/sick.html

http://whitney05.hubpages.com/hub/pac-man-frog-health

Fun Facts

Size: 2″ to 10” depending on species

Lifespan: 5-15 years

Origin: South America, Africa, Asia, Australia

Care Level: Beginner

A land frog doesn’t drink water – it absorbs it through its skin! And although a land frog has lungs, it also breathes through its skin!

Most frogs molt about once a week. It’s a quick process that only takes a few minutes, so you may never see it. After they’re done, they’ll eat the old skin!

Pacman Frogs are named after the video game character because of their round body shape and huge mouth!

Pacman Frogs are big eaters and can even eat prey as large as they are! (Although it is better to feed them several small prey items as they have trouble digesting large prey.)

In many species of land frogs, the female can grow to be two to three times the size of the male! An exception is the African bullfrog or pyxie frog. Males of this species are much larger than females.

Some land frogs, such as B. Pacman frogs, have powerful jaws and sometimes mistake fingers for food! If you need to pick up your frog, always pick it up from the back, not the front.

This is a basic overview of the care of a land frog and is not intended to be an exhaustive guide to frog care or health. Consult a book, online resource, veterinarian, or animal care specialist for additional guidance.

March is the time of year when you are likely to see frogs in your garden.

Wet spring weather and the desire for a mate can lead you to spotting a frog in your yard, even if you don’t have a pond.

The first thing to do is not touch it. British frogs aren’t venomous, but they do have sensitive skin, so trying to catch them with your hand both strains them and your warm, dry hands can damage them. Just stand back, calm and composed, maybe take a picture and then let it go. If you have a dog, feel free to pull him away from the frog, too.

Should I put a frog back in the pond?

No, if you have a pond, he knows it’s there and will go there by himself if he wants to. In fact, frogs spend more time outside than in garden ponds, entering the water only to breed or cool off. Just leave it. Even if you don’t have a pond, it will be fine in the shelter of tall grass or under some bushes. If you feel like your yard is cordoned off, don’t worry on that front either. The frog has found its way in, perhaps under a fence panel or under a garden shed, and it will be able to find its way back if it chooses. The same is true for other amphibians and for baby frogs. They can actually drown in ponds, so if you find them outside of the pond, they should stay there.

How can I attract frogs to my garden?

Provide plenty of suitable habitats for him to hide and find food in, such as B. Woodpile and a compost heap. If you want frogs to breed in your yard, you need a wild pond. Dig a shallow pond a few meters in diameter and lay out a pond liner. Fill with water, dechlorinate, plant with native pond plants and leave. The frogs will find it and with any luck they will spawn there. You must not move frogs or newts, so just create a wildlife-friendly, fish-free pond at ground level, they will find it and it will naturally colonize with pond life.

If you find frogspawn in the pond, leave them there as it’s the best place for it. The pond will be full of microscopic organisms, algae and detritus for the tadpoles to feed on. As they grow, you can supplement their food with Swell Tadpole Food.

Also, if you find frogs while tending the pond, it’s best to take them to a quiet and secluded spot in the yard right away, rather than storing them in a container and stressing them out until the pond is refilled.

What is the difference between a frog and a toad?

Frogs have longer hind legs and shinier, greener skin. They are much more powerful jumpers and can move quickly through the garden. Toads are browner, thicker, and smaller, with shorter hind legs and bumpy brown skin. Frog fry are one big jelly mass, while toads lay their eggs in long strings. Both frogs and toads can be found in gardens in the UK.

What to do if you find a toad in the garden

The common toad is even less amphibious than frogs and only visits ponds to breed. Toads often hide under trash or even in dry multipurpose compost. They are not usually found near ponds. So if you find one, leave it there, or if you need to move it, put it in a shady and sheltered spot nearby. It should not be put in water.

What to do if you find newts in the garden

Newts can be found buried in the ground and if you find them there, leave them as they may be hibernating. Newts spend time water hunting, but if you find them outside the pond, you should leave them outside the pond. The Great Crested Newt is protected and therefore must not be handled or moved and no native amphibians should be moved from one location to another of bodies of water due to the risk of disease spread.