How To Make A Vr6 Faster? The 13 New Answer

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The Vr6 engine was introduced in the early 1990s and is still used in the Atlas and Passat. However, we are seeing a shift from the Vr6 to more efficient engines as technology advances. When Volkswagen introduced this engine it was ahead of its time as it was almost the same size as the signature inline 4 but had 6 zigzag cylinders resting on a cylinder head.

Before we go into general issues with the Vr6 engine, it is important to note that not all engines are created equal, so these may apply to some but not to others. With proper care and adherence to maintenance schedules, this engine can be very reliable.

Also, for the replacement options listed below, make sure they fit your vehicle before ordering. Since there are many different types of Vr6 engine, we couldn’t list them all.

Vr6 General problems are applicable to:

MK2 Corrado 1991-1995

B3 Passat 1988-1993

MK3 GTI 1991-2000

MK3 Jetta 1992-1999

MK4 GTI 1999-2005

MK4 Jetta 1999-2006

New Beetle RSi 2000-2003

Phaeton 2002-2016

Touareg 2002-2018

MK5 R32 2006-2010

CC 2008-2017

B7 Passat 2010-2015

Atlas 2017-present

The 6 most common problems with Volkswagen Vr6 engines

Ignition Coil Pack Failure Leaking Head Gasket Serpentine Belt Tensioner Failure Hot Shutdowns Water Pump Failure Timing Chain Failure

1. Ignition coil/coil pack failure

No wonder ignition coil failure is a common problem in almost all VW vehicles. Depending on which Vr6 engine your vehicle has, you could be looking at coil packs (12v) or 6 individual coils (24v). Ignition coils are a very important part for your vehicles to start and move. It converts the battery’s lower voltage into a higher voltage needed to ignite the spark plugs, which in turn ignites the fuel.

Coil packs house ignition coils within themselves. They are a more modern version of individual ignition coils and serve the same purpose. In some cases coil packs can even be more efficient and give a better spark but this is case by case and depends on which Vr6 engine your vehicle has. One thing to note is that a coil pack is just one ignition coil for all 6 cylinders, while individual coils go into all 6 cylinders.

Symptoms of ignition coil pack failure:

engine misfires

Vehicle will not start

Rough idle

Reduced performance

Check if the Check Engine Light (CEL) or Check Engine Light (EML) is flashing or staying on

Regardless of individual ignition coils or ignition coil packs, installing or replacing them is a fairly simple task. If you were to take your VW to the dealer or local shop to have your ignition coils replaced, you would expect to pay $600 for labor, parts and diagnostics. If you’re a skilled mechanic (or even a semi-skilled mechanic), we would heartily advise you to do it yourself. One thing to remember about individual ignition coils is that if you need to replace one, you will need to replace all of them. That way everyone is in the same state.

Ignition Coil/Coil Pack Replacement Options:

Buy it here: VR6 12V OEM Coil Pack

Buy here: Vr6 12v OEM Spark Plugs

Buy Here: Vr6 24v OEM Coil Packs

Buy Here: Vr6 24v OEM Spark Plugs

DIY Difficulty: Easy

2. Vr6 leaking head gasket

Another problem with Volkswagen Vr6 engines is a failed head gasket. The head gasket is one of the most important, if not the most important, gasket on your engine. It seals the pressure of the cylinders to ensure maximum compression is achieved. If you have a blown head gasket or a leak, you can find out right away.

A leaking/failed head gasket is much more common the more miles your vehicle drives depending on the maintenance. Because the head gasket is the seal from the engine block to the cylinder head, it is exposed to extremely high temperatures from the combustion gases and extremely low temperatures from the engine coolant. A part that is exposed to such temperature fluctuations can slowly start to leak if not properly maintained and cause real problems for your vehicle. To ensure the reliability of your head gasket, make sure your coolant levels are where they should be.

Symptoms of a leaking/blown head gasket:

Engine overheating

Unexplained coolant loss with no obvious leaks

Oil and coolant mixture

Rapid increase in pressure in the cooling system

White smoke from the exhaust

“Milky” oil or bubbles on the dipstick

Vr6 Head Gasket Replacement Options:

Unfortunately, if your head gasket has blown or leaked, you’re going to have to pay around $1,500 to take it to a shop. Now we’ve seen people do this themselves, but it’s for the more advanced mechanics.

DIY Difficulty: Advanced

3. Vr6 V-ribbed belt tensioner defective

The serpentine belt tensioner (also known as an accessory belt or drive belt) is one of those parts that are doomed to fail in every VW. As the name suggests, the V-belt tensioner keeps the V-belt taut. The serpentine belt is important as it powers many accessories in your Vr6 such as: B. the water pump, the power steering pump, the alternator and the air conditioning compressor.

As with any part in an engine, the more miles your vehicle has, the more likely it is that the tensioner will fail due to normal wear and tear. If the tensioner fails you risk tearing your serpentine belt completely which would cause problems with the accessories listed above.

Symptoms of a serpentine belt or secondary belt tensioner failure:

Squeaking noises when starting or stopping your engine

Unusual serpentine belt wear

Power steering not working

Air conditioning not working

Engine overheating

If you’re a reasonably handy mechanic, you can do this yourself relatively easily. However, if you’re not, or would rather have it done professionally, you’re going to face a cost of $150-$300, mainly because of the labor. One thing we would suggest if you are doing this yourself is make sure you replace both the serpentine belt and the tensioner so you don’t put a new tensioner on with a weak belt. Finally, also check any pulleys that the V-belt runs on, just for precautions or future damage.

Serpentine Belt Tensioner Replacement Options:

Buy it here: Vr6 12v Serpentine Belt Kit

DIY Difficulty: Medium

4. Warm stables

Don’t worry, although warm stalls can be EXTREMELY annoying, they don’t usually cause extreme problems. Since the problem states “warm stalls”, this means that the vehicle will stall when the engine has warmed up to the optimum engine temperature. Warm stops can also mean that your vehicle will not start when the engine is warm. For example, if you drive quickly into the store, it will start cold, but if you leave the store, it will not start.

If you are encountering the above problems, we would advise you to reflash your ECU as a first step. If the problem persists, take it to a local shop or check for a replacement: water pump or alternator. It could also just mean that your vehicle needs cooling system service. Finally, check your ignition coils! Replacing your ignition coils could be a simple fix to alleviate the problem.

5. Water pump failure

The Volkswagen water pump is also one of the most common problems on most engines. Water pumps push the coolant from your vehicle’s radiator through the cooling system into the engine and then back to the radiator. There are many important running parts in a vehicle engine, but water pumps are easily one of the most important.

Unfortunately, water pumps fail due to everyday wear and tear alone. During the life of your vehicle, you will likely replace at least one or two water pumps. If the water pump fails completely, you will see an overheating situation which, if not dealt with as soon as possible, will lead to more serious engine damage. So what symptoms can you look for to make sure there isn’t another engine failure?

Symptoms of water pump failure:

Coolant Leak at the Front of Your Vehicle (Low Coolant Indicator Illuminated)

Engine overheating

High-pitched noise coming from the engine

Steam comes out of the radiator

Deposits or corrosion on the water pump

If your water pump is failing, we strongly recommend that you try it yourself as it will save you a ton of money. If you want to take it to a dealer, look at a bill between $500 and $900. But if you decide to work on it yourself, it could set you back anywhere from $50 to $250 depending on whether you get a set or just the water pump. We would definitely recommend the set, since it is usually best to replace the timing belt at the same time if the water pump fails.

Vr6 Water Pump Replacement Options:

Buy here: 12V VR6 Replacement Water Pump Kit

Buy it here: 24V VR6 Replacement Water Pump Kit

DIY Difficulty: Medium

6. Vr6 timing chain failure

Finally, timing chain failures on VW vehicles seem to be quite noticeable once you hit about 100,000 miles. A timing chain is a very important component in your engine that connects the crankshaft and camshaft together so the transmission rotates in unison with the engine.

Unlike timing belts, timing chains do not fail through normal wear and tear. If your timing chain is failing, it is most likely due to poor vehicle maintenance. If the timing chain fails, your vehicle will not start or stall while driving. The reason for this is that the engine does not have enough compression to start.

Symptoms of timing chain failure:

Check if the check engine light or check engine light is on

Engine rattles at idle

Metal shavings in your oil

Engine skips a gear

engine misfires

Vehicle will not start or stalls while driving

Volkswagen has built timing chains to last at least 120,000 miles, but this can be longer or shorter depending on vehicle maintenance. Unless you are an experienced mechanic we would advise against doing this yourself as it is difficult and there are many moving parts to take care of e.g. B. How to adjust the chain correctly so that your engine runs properly. If you’re looking to take it to a store, you’ll most likely be faced with a bill between $1,000 and $1,500.

Vr6 Timing Chain Replacement Options:

Buy Here: 12V Vr6 Replacement Timing Chain Kit

Buy it here: 24v Vr6 Replacement Timing Chain Kit

DIY Difficulty: Advanced

Reliability of the Volkswagen Vr6 engine

Although there is a long list of issues above, the Vr6 engine is very reliable when properly maintained. They can go up to 150,000 miles or even longer, we’ve seen some last in excess of 300,000 miles.

What is the powertrain, Volkswagen Golf III Hatchback 1992 2.8 VR6 (174 Hp)?

front wheel drive. combustion engine. The internal combustion engine (ICE) drives the front wheels of the vehicle.

MK3 Volkswagen VR6 1991>1998

VW MK3 Supercharger $4,495

Models: Golf, Corrado, Jetta and Passat

Engines: AAA, ABV

VF Engineering designed this kit from the ground up using Vortech Engineering’s “bulletproof” V3 supercharger unit.

The key to the design of this compressor kit is the ease with which it bolts on. The kit is a bolt-on system that includes all the parts needed to charge your VR6. The power of the silky smooth VR6 engine is increased from 170 hp to 280 hp and torque from 170 ft. lbs to 250 ft. lbs of torque.

VF Engineering’s approach to kit design and experience has created a bolt-on kit with incredible smoothness and rideability. The mass air flow sensor has been relocated and a boost spill valve (pressure relief system) fitted so it can be ‘tuned’ for optimal part throttle and idle delay. OBD1 and OBD2 have both been fully homologated with this kit that will idle and accelerate like a VR6 should – smooth and unrelenting.

The kit was built in 2 stages to give you an increasing amount of horsepower and torque. Level 1 has been discontinued in favor of requiring Level 2.

Stage 2 includes replacement drop-in Bosch high-performance injectors. Boost is set at 8psi for reliable and punchy performance.

List of parts:

automobile engine

VR6 Engine 1991-1995 Volkswagen Corrado 2.9L Engine Overview Production 1991-Present Layout Displacement 2.5-3.6 L (153-220 cu in) Valve train 1991-2002: 12 valves

2000-Present: 24 valve Combustion Fuel Type Gasoline

VR6 engines are piston V6 engines with a narrow angle between the cylinder banks and a single cylinder head covering both cylinder banks.

The Volkswagen Group introduced the first VR6 engine in 1991 and VR6 engines are still in production today. From 1997 to 2006, Volkswagen also produced a five-cylinder VR5 engine based on the VR6.

Description[edit]

Diagram showing the difference in connector lengths between a V6 and a VR6

The VR6 name comes from the German initials for a V engine (German: V-Motor) and an in-line engine (German: Linienmotor), hence the VR engine is known as the “V-Inline-Motor” (VR-Motor) .

VR6 engines share a common cylinder head for the two cylinder banks. Only two camshafts are required for the engine, regardless of whether the engine has two or four valves per cylinder. This simplifies engine construction and reduces costs.

Because the cylinders are not on the center line of the combined cylinder head, the lengths of the intake and exhaust ports are different for each bank. Without compensation, these different duct lengths would result in the two cylinder banks producing different amounts of power at a given engine speed. The difference in port lengths is compensated for by the length of the runners in the intake manifold, the camshaft overlap, and the lift profile, or a combination of these.

Volkswagen engines[ edit ]

Frontal views of an in-line engine (diagram “a”), a V-engine (diagram “b”) and a VR engine (diagram “c”) Top views of an in-line engine (left), a V-engine (middle) and a VR engine (to the right )

The Volkswagen VR6 engine was designed for the transverse engine in vehicles with front-wheel drive.[1] The narrow 15° angle between the two cylinder banks reduced the width of the engine compared to a conventional V6 engine. As a result, the VR6 engine is easier to fit into an engine compartment originally designed for a four-cylinder engine.

12-valve versions [ edit ]

Early VR6 engines had two valves per cylinder (twelve valves total) and used one camshaft for the intake and exhaust valves of each cylinder bank (not using rocker arms).

The first Volkswagen VR6 engine uses the AAA version. It had an 81.0 mm (3.19 in) bore and 90.3 millimeters (3.56 in) stroke for a total displacement of 2.8 L (171 cu in). In 1994, a 2.9 L (177 cu in) ABV version with an increased bore of 82.0 mm (3.23 in) was introduced in some European countries.

The V-angle between the cylinder banks is 15° and the compression ratio is 10:1.[2] The crankshaft runs in seven main bearings and the journals are offset by 22° to accommodate the offset cylinder configuration.[3] This also allows the use of a 120° firing interval between cylinders.[4] The firing order is: 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4.[5] The centerline of the cylinders is offset from the centerline of the crankshaft by 12.5 mm (0.49 inch).

The valve sizes are 39.0 mm (1.54 in) for the intake and 34.3 mm (1.35 in) for the exhaust. Because the two “banks” of pistons and cylinders share a single cylinder head and head gasket, the piston crown (or top surface) is sloped. The engine management system is Bosch Motronic.

24-valve versions [ edit ]

A version with four valves per cylinder (for a total of 24 valves) was introduced in 1999.[6] The 24-valve versions use one camshaft for both banks’ intake valves (using rockers to reach the furthest bank) and the other camshaft for both banks’ exhaust valves (again, through the use of rockers). This operating principle is more like a double overhead camshaft (DOHC) design with one camshaft for intake valves and one for exhaust valves.

history [edit]

The 1922-1976 Lancia V4 engine was the first narrow angle V engine used in a motor vehicle.

The first versions of the VR6 engine were introduced in 1991 in the Volkswagen Passat B3 sedan and the Volkswagen Corrado coupe. A 128 kW (172 hp) 2.8 L AAA version was used in most Passat models and the North American version of the Corrado. A 2.9 L (177 cu in) ABV version rated at 140 kW (188 hp) was used in the Passat Syncro model and the European version of the Corrado. Both versions used 2 valves per cylinder. Use of the VR6 engine was extended to the Volkswagen Golf Mk3 2.8 VR6 and Volkswagen Vento/Jetta (A3) 2.8 VR6 models in 1992. The 2.8 liter version was also used in the Mercedes-Benz Vito (W638) commercial vehicles from 1996 to 2003, where it was designated the ‘M104.900’.

In 1997 the VR5 engine was introduced, based on the VR6 engine.

An AQP/AUE version with 4 valves per cylinder was introduced in 2000. This 2.8 L (171 cu in) engine produced 150 kW (201 hp) and mostly replaced the 2-valve engines except in North America where an updated version of the 2-valve was used in the 2000 Golf and Jetta – Deployed in 2002.

A 3.2 L EA390 version of the 4-valve engine was introduced in the 2001 Volkswagen New Beetle RSi model. This 3.2 liter engine was also used in the 2002–2004 Volkswagen Golf Mk4 R32 model and the 2003–2010 Audi TT 3.2 VR6 quattro models. The peak output was 177 kW (237 hp) for the New Beetle and Golf (engine code BFH/BML) and 184 kW (247 hp) for the Audi TT (engine code BHE).

Engine size was increased again in 2005 when a 3.6 L (220 cu in) version with direct fuel injection (FSI) was introduced in the Volkswagen Passat (B6). This BLV version uses a narrower 10.6 degree angle between the cylinder banks and produces 206 kW (276 hp). A 3.2 L (195 cu in) and 184 kW (247 hp) AXZ version was introduced in 2006. In 2008, a performance-enhanced BWS version of the 3.6-liter engine with 220 kW (295 hp) was introduced in the Volkswagen Passat (B6) R36 model.[12]

The base model Porsche Cayenne (9PA) used a 3.2L VR6 engine from 2003 to 2006 and a 3.6L VR6 engine from 2008 to 2010. Then the next generation Porsche Cayenne (92A) from 2010 to 2018 also used a 3.6-liter VR6 engine.

Volkswagen had started phasing out VR engines in favor of downsized turbocharged engines, however the VR6 is currently in production for the Volkswagen Passat (NMS) sedan models sold in China. In 2017, the VR6 engines made an unexpected comeback when versions of the 24-valve VR6 engines were produced for the Volkswagen Atlas. Volkswagen also made the all-new VR6 (still EA390) for the Chinese market only, it is a 2.5 liter turbocharged 24V VR6 with 220 kW (295 hp) and 500 Nm of torque for the Volkswagen Teramont SUV and the new one Volkswagen Talagon MPV

Applications[ edit ]

Volkswagen Group automobiles:

Other producers:

W engines[ edit ]

The Volkswagen Group has produced several “W engines” based on the combination of two VR engines on a common crankshaft. The first W engine to reach production was the W12 engine, which has been in production since 2001. The W12 engine consists of two VR6 engines connected at an angle of 72 degrees. Although Volkswagen did not produce a VR4 engine, it still briefly produced a 2001-2004 W8 engine.

Volkswagen’s largest W engine is the W16 engine introduced in the Bugatti Veyron in 2005. This engine uses a 90 degree angle between the two VR8 engines and has four turbochargers.

Other manufacturers[edit]

Motorcycle manufacturer Horex has been producing VR6 engines since 2012.[15][16]

VR6 The German special engine

Concept :

VR or (V-inline) engines are basically a hybrid of the inline engine and the V configuration engine.

Source: Wiki Commons

VR is a V engine with a very narrow angle of 10.6 or 15 degrees between the cylinder banks, but with a single cylinder head, which means that only 2 camshafts (DOHC) are required, regardless of whether the engine has 2 or 4 valves per cylinder Has.

Story :

VR engines were manufactured by the Volkswagen Group in 1991, with the most famous VR6 engine in the Volkswagen Passat B3 and the Volkswagen Corrado coupe having a displacement of 2.8L and 172 hp:

Source: topworldauto

The VR6 engine was updated many times from 1991 to 2006, until the Volkswagen Group introduced its smaller, more compact brother, the VR5. VR6 is a more complex engine than the inline 6, but simpler than the V6 and costs less than the regular 60 or 90 degree V configuration.

Draft:

The length of the intake and exhaust ports are different on VR engines due to the displacement between the cylinder bores to the sides, but with a single flat cylinder head with slanted pistons (Veyron-like).

Two valve trains were introduced in the VR6 engine, 12 valves and 24 valves as shown in the diagram above. The VR6 engine has the exact same firing order as the inline 6 engine (1,5,3,6,2,4) pairs (1,6);(2,5);(3,4).

Advantages and disadvantages:

The VR6 is a well balanced engine like the inline 6 but with additional counterweights on the crankshaft due to the offset between the cylinders to ensure smoother revs. The VR6 has a narrower body than a V6 and is shorter than an inline 6 engine, making it ideal for front-wheel drive cars.

The VR6 size helps to have a larger displacement than the inline 4 engine in front-wheel drive vehicles, resulting in more power. The worst thing about this engine is that there is a limited bore size because the cylinders are so close together and the wall thickness is not that great that the bore size cannot be increased. The VR engine has a single intake manifold and a single exhaust manifold, making it simpler and lighter than a V configuration. The VR6 engine came with variable displacements between 2.5 and 3.6 liters. Two valve trains were introduced to the VR6 engine, 12 valves and 24 valves as shown in the diagram above. The VR6 engine has the exact same firing order as the inline 6 engine (1,5,3,6,2,4) pairs (1,6);(2,5);(3,4). The VR6 is good – Balanced engine like the inline 6 but with additional counterweights on the crankshaft due to the offset between the cylinders to ensure smoother revs. The VR6 is narrower than a V6 and shorter than an inline-6 ​​engine, making it ideal for front-wheel drive cars. The VR6’s size helps it have a larger displacement than an inline-4 engine in front-wheel drive cars, which creates more energy. The worst thing about this engine is that there is a limited bore size because the cylinders are so close together and the wall thickness is not that great that the bore size cannot be increased.

Advanced V-VR Race:

In 2001, the Volkswagen Group introduced a new configuration for car engine designs used in airplanes between 1917 and 1930, namely the “W” engine. The W engine is essentially 2 VR engines plugged together in a V shape as the Bentley 6.0 W12 is essentially 2 VR6 engines sharing a single crankshaft.

Source: Gommeblog

The W engine has a large total displacement like the W12 6.0 and produces high power with a relatively small physical size. The W12 engine consists of 4 banks of 3 cylinders with only two flat cylinder heads.

W engines produce very high torque due to the complex angle of the four banks and exert a force against the single crankshaft from both sides. Ultimately, the VR engines are exceptional, unique and reliable engines with a compact size and large displacement that work in all types of drivetrains (front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive and four-wheel drive).

The difference in the size of the intake and exhaust ports ensures that the same amount of air enters and exits the combustion chamber.

GTI VR6 or GTI 1.8T

Which GTI is better and safer to upgrade? I want to buy a GTI 1.8T this summer (model 2002). I’m considering a blow-off valve, bypass valve, GIAC chip and exhaust (maybe Remus, Borla or Magnaflow. Should I get a turbo muffler too? What about a cold air intake, short shifter, sports clutch and others Upgrades, such as an intercooler. Can you give me some tips on which upgrades to do first? I don’t want to spend a lot of money, but I don’t want anything cheap either. Also, how safe is it to upgrade a turbo? I have one Friend who told me some stories about people playing with the PSI and boost of a turbo and I don’t want the car to end up in the grave. Should I go for the VR6 instead?”

Srdjan Boskovic

Seattle, Washington

Srdjan, it’s safe to say that both the 1.8T and VR6 are great engines and both respond well to upgrades. Considering that the VR6 equipped car will be more expensive initially, you will have more money to upgrade the 1.8T equipped car. The engine characteristics of these two cars also differ significantly, as one is turbocharged and the other is not. The 1.8T brings the most gains for the least amount of money, even though you start with less horsepower.

The mods you mentioned for the 1.8T (with the exception of the blow off valve and bypass valve which are really unnecessary and do not improve performance over correctly working stock parts) will take your car to over 200hp range with significant amounts of torque – somewhere between 240-260lb-ft. Don’t overlook the Techtonics or SuperSprint exhausts for your car, both offer excellent performance at a reasonable price. Techtonics will probably offer the best performance of all listed. The standard VR6 engine has 200 hp but significantly less torque. With the slight weight advantage of the 1.8 ton engine car and the torque advantage, the 1.8 ton car will obviously be a faster vehicle. And with less weight on the nose, the 1.8T will also be easier to handle.

It’s wise to consider a clutch upgrade as well, as the increase in torque will cause your stock clutch to wear out fairly quickly. The intercooler, cold air intake and short shifter are all nice additions too. Since the chip and exhaust bring the biggest wins and are best done together, I would go with this upgrade first. Follow that with the cold air intake and then the other modifications you want. As far as turbo upgrades go, there are still limited options for the 1.8T.

The 1.8T engine is powerful enough internally to handle these types of upgrades if kept within reason. K04 upgrades abound, offering a significant horsepower upgrade over stock with a minimal loss of low-end grunt. K04 upgrades cost around $1,700 to $2,000 depending on which kit you choose. They are the easiest and probably the safest bet. Other turbo upgrades like APR’s Stage III offer significantly more horsepower, around 280+, but are much more expensive. When installed correctly, none of these upgrade kits should put an untimely end to your car’s engine. However, remember that you change important engine parameters and put more stress on your entire drive train. Make sure the vehicle’s other systems are upgraded accordingly.

2001 Jetta 1.8T

I’m new to the VW performance scene and have a 2001 Jetta 1.8T five speed. What is the difference between the ’01 and the newer models? I noticed that the newer years have 180 hp; Is that just a chip difference? Are there hardware differences?

Jim Plourde

over the internet

Jim, Volkswagen switched from the AWD engine code to the AWW engine code in the 2001 model year. While both engines put out 150 hp, there were a few differences. The newer AWW engines featured a different turbocharger, with a slightly larger intake (44mm vs. 43mm) and impeller from the K04-series turbo, as well as VCT or variable cam timing and slightly lower compression – 9.3:1 versus 9.5:1. However, they reduced the diameter of the downpipe from 55mm to 50mm. Most of these modifications were aimed at improving emissions. In 2002, they switched to the AWP engine, boosting power to 180 hp. The AWP differs from the AWW in that its compression ratio has been increased again to 9.5:1 and the downpipe diameter has been increased again to 55mm. You are correct as the horsepower boost is just a difference in the amount of boost requested by the car’s ECU as the 150hp engines are 0.6 (9psi) and the 180hp are 0.8 bar (12 psi) of gain.

2002 Jetta Turbo

The 30 hp increase in the VW Jetta from 2001 to 2002 is mainly attributed to an increase in turbo boost pressure. However, I can’t find anywhere what the maximum boost pressure is now. Can you help?

Dick Gibb

over the internet

The 150hp 1.8T engines with engine codes AWD and AWW run with 0.6 bar or 9psi turbo boost and the AWP 180hp engines with 0.8 bar boost pressure or 12psi.

Possibility of engine exchange

I was just wondering if it would be possible to put an Audi S4 2.7 Biturbo engine in a MkIV Volkswagen Golf. And if so, are there kits for it? Randall Hart

over the internet

Randall, while anything is possible with the right amount of money, this is a swap that really isn’t feasible without rebuilding the entire car. The 2.7 tonne engine was designed to be installed longitudinally in the engine compartment and therefore requires a powertrain that allows this. Since the engine on the MKIV platform Golf is transversely mounted, significant modifications to the engine bay, floorpan and powertrain itself would be required to accommodate this type of swap. A company in the UK has done this type of swap into a TT that shares the MKIV platform with the Golf. However, to make the swap possible, they had to use the entire powertrain from an Audi Coupé Quattro and manufacture a significant amount of parts to make the swap work. This swap is rumored to have cost around $50,000.

1998 Jetta VR6

I just got a ’98 Jetta VR6 and I’m looking to put some mods on it – it’s totally in stock at the moment. Will the stock springs and rear anti-roll bar from an Audi S4 (courtesy of my uncle’s car) fit on the Jetta? I’m hoping to add a chip or maybe even go as far as a supercharger or turbo. What would be the best route in terms of reliability and a good amount of power and torque? Would the S4 springs and anti-roll bar be enough for the power I’m going to get out of my engine with a chip or charger? Also, I’ve heard that the VR6 has a tendency to blow its head gasket when supercharged; Is that true? I want everything to last, but I need it to pull more! And I’m also a college kid doing a summer job, so obviously I’m on a budget. I trust your advice because I have been a reader of European Car for quite some time.

Jay Peterson

New Berlin, Wisconsin

Jay the 98 Jetta VR6 is a great car to mod and responds very well to suspension mods as long as they are specifically designed for this car. The S4 suspension components will not work because they were designed for a completely different platform, the “B” platform, while your car is an “A” platform car. There are many options that offer a variety of different levels of lowering and different levels of stiffness that would work very well on your Jetta. If you want to use the car as an everyday vehicle, a set of sport springs and good shock absorbers are the way to go. Some companies like H&R and KW offer complete kits sold with matching springs and shock absorbers, or you can opt for either Bilstein, Boge or Koni shock absorbers along with Neuspeed, Eibach, Shine Racing or H&R springs decide. All of these combinations work well on the road and offer slight to modest drops. You can add a rear anti-roll bar to any of these kits but remember this will result in more oversteer and I would suggest starting with the shocks and springs first and then tuning the suspension to your needs and desires.

As you know the VR6 engine was not designed from the factory to be supercharged or turbocharged, so the fact to consider is that the head gasket can fail if either of these are used. However, most well designed turbo kits such as those from ATP Turbosystems (www.8vturbo.com) or HPA Motorsports (http://www.hpamotorsport.com) for the VR6 use a thicker head gasket to reduce compression and provide for a stronger one Connection between head and cylinder block. Supercharger systems for the VR6, like that from VF-Engineering (www.vf-engineering.com), tend to run fixed boost levels and are designed to run with the stock head gasket and compression.

Turbo diesel tuning

I’m looking for information on how much more horsepower a 1999 Golf III 90hp turbo diesel engine can gain by modifying its ECU. And how much more will it win if I add other modifications like exhaust, turbos, intercoolers etc.

Daryl Sharp

Comox, British Columbia, Canada

The latest iterations of the TDI engines, such as those found in your A3 Golf, certainly take modifications well. As you mentioned, the most common performance modification for the TDI is an ECU modification or chip. As with other ECU mods, it generally changes fueling, timing, and boost parameters to extract more horsepower. Some good ones are Upsolute (www.upsolute.com), Wetterauer (www.chip-tuning.com) and Speedtuning USA (www.speedtuningusa.com). Upsolute claims an increase in horsepower from 90hp to 116hp and an increase in torque from 210Nm to 265Nm. Wetterauer claims an increase in horsepower from 90 hp to 115 hp and an increase in torque from 153 lb-ft to 183 lb-ft. Speedtuning USA claims an increase in horsepower from 90 hp to 118 and an increase in torque from 210 to 285 Nm. To put that in perspective, that’s about 13% more torque than a stock VR6 2.8!

Don’t overlook the value of an exhaust system upgrade because, like most turbocharged engines, TDIs like a free-flowing exhaust. Techtonics makes a nice 2.5-inch. System for your car in either aluminized or stainless and should be good for around 10hp and save a few pounds on top of that. You can also have an upgraded downpipe that would boost performance even more. An exhaust would be a great addition along with the ECU mod.

Finally, if you want to get really sick about this diesel performance thing, KermaTDI (www.kermatdi.com) has larger Sprint and PowerPlus injectors to add another 20 hp or more. We’ll be testing these in an upcoming installment, but we’re expecting good things. A great online source for information about TDI is the TDI Club at (www.tdiclub.com). If you’re into TDIs, this is the place for you.

Turbo or Supercharge the Damn Thing?

I subscribe to your magazine as well as eurotuner and to be honest you really don’t cover the Jetta that I drive every day. I realize there are probably more people driving M3s and 745is! But instead of offering more information on how to stomp our import brethren go on to say, “Don’t buy this car to go fast!” and “It was the scariest car that ever drove through a slalom.” Now correct me if I’m wrong, but that’s downright rude. I realize my baby carrier limo isn’t designed for 1/4 mile ass towing or slalom racing in under a few seconds. But you have to understand that I’m on a budget because my wife says so.

I still have the means to toss at least four grand into my “Fast and the Furious” wannabe white ’98 Jetta GLS powered by the small but explosive 2.0 liter monster! I must also mention that I have owned and raced a few V8s and as the old saying goes, “No substitute for displacement.” I would still love the looks on certain people’s faces as my little German-engineered but Mexican-assembled car drove past them with smoking tires!

So to get to the point. NGP or Neuspeed? I’m not crazy about oil lines and to be honest 132 hp on the wheels from Neuspeeds Golf isn’t that impressive! So which way to go, I ask the pros?

From your humble but pissed off fan, Eric Rodriguez – Evil Squirel from Channelview, Texas. (Yes, I know, it’s two and not an R!)

Sometimes you have to call them how you see them and we all know the 2.0-litre is a great little engine but leaves a lot to be desired in terms of performance. If that weren’t the case, you wouldn’t be trying to decide which method would give you better performance. However you look at it, you have to consider more than just improving performance, you also have to consider other upgrades to the drivetrain and braking systems. That being said, you’ll have to see how far you can stretch that $4,000.

I wouldn’t rule out the Neuspeed supercharger anytime soon. In terms of value for money, it’s a pretty good solution, mainly because it’s very easy to install compared to turbochargers and other more complicated supercharger systems. While the kit’s peak horsepower isn’t very high, it’s very well constructed and works well with the factory drivetrain etc, minimizing the need for additional upgrades such as the clutch, brakes, etc. It’s huge and shouldn’t be discounted so quickly.

Also, the Neuspeed kit is a legal kit, so you don’t have to strip our turbo and put it back in stock for inspections if that’s a problem in Texas. Putting everything in the turbo or supercharger system and producing a lot of power leaves nothing for the other necessary upgrades. There are several turbo and supercharger systems other than those from NGP or Neuspeed, such as the compressor from VF Engineering (www.vf-engineering.com) as well as the turbo kits from ATP Turbosystems (www.8vturbo.com).

However, none of these solutions, when implemented correctly, are cost-effective. ATP claims 175 hp for its Stage I and 200 hp for its Stage II kits at $2,150 and $2,950, respectively. VF calls for 170 hp for the $3,500 Stage I kit, 190 for a Stage II for an additional $500, and 220 hp for Stage III, which adds an intercooler and $1,500 more to the price.

If you don’t have the facilities and skills to do the installation yourself, add about $600 to $1,000 to the total cost to those numbers. Adding to these higher performance systems is the cost of clutch and brake upgrades, which can be quite expensive.

G60 question

I read that the G60 Passat Syncro crank pulley is larger than the G60 Corrado crank pulley. Did you hear about it? If yes, do you know details?

Aaron Dmyterko, MET

over the internet

According to the VAG parts catalogue, the crankshaft pulleys appear to be the same on the G60 engine, engine code PG, which was installed in both the Corrado and the Passat Syncro.

weather protection

I’ve had a hell of a time trying to find weatherstrips for my vehicle. I have a 1986 VW Jetta with a 1.8 liter engine. The carpet behind the passenger and driver’s carpet gets damp every time it rains. The weather strip, which ends next to the windshield and at the roof, looks over the rear door. I see that little things are missing. I called the dealer and I don’t want to pay $190 for each side. Can you help me? Is that what lets the water in? Is there a company that makes this product at a lower price?

Ben Castaneda

over the internet

The weatherstrip you describe is primarily there to drain water and not to seal the cabin itself. The inner door seal keeps the water out of the car’s cabin. I would also check these and make sure they are in good condition. Unfortunately, the only place that stocks weatherstrips is at the dealership, aside from a junkyard. Unlike the air-cooled VW aftermarket, there are no other options. A likely possibility is that water entered the cabin through the doors themselves. The plastic liner or vapor barrier can come loose (or not be replaced after repair work or a stereo installation…) and allow water to enter the car behind the door panels. I would check that first.

Looking for an older VW

I currently own a 2001 Civic (my parents bought it, sorry I know their folly) but am interested in buying an older VW for myself. I really want to be a VW guru but I don’t know much about them. I’ve looked at everything from the 1985-97 GTIs, 1990-93 Corrados, 1994-97 Jettas and 1994-97 Golfs and I’m wondering what the best choice is for someone like me. I’m 18 years old so insurance, cheapness and reliability are all deciding factors for me. I want a car that I can improve on a modest budget and one that won’t break down and let me work the night shift at Mickey D’s.

Ben Barta

over the internet

If insurance, cheapness and reliability are the top priorities when choosing your VW, I would look at the 1994-1997 A3 GTI 8V or Jetta or Golf. Corrados are wonderful cars but insurance is quite expensive and they are not the most reliable of VWs and require a lot of car loving and money. The older A2 1985-1992 GTI, Golf or Jetta would be my next choice after the A3, but I would lean towards an 8v motorized version as it can be difficult to keep the 16v motor running, and more expensive to maintain.

If I were you, I’d be looking for a like-new A3 that you can afford. I would also stay away from VR6 powered models just because of the higher insurance costs involved. In general, VW improves and changes things for the better through a product cycle. The initial overall quality and reliability of the 1996-1997 A3 was much higher than previous versions. If you have friends to lug around, I’d go with the Jetta or a 4-door Golf, as rear seat space is limited and access is worse for the 2-door models. There are numerous upgrade options available for all A3s, and parts and maintenance are relatively inexpensive.

Tuning TDIs or TDs

Regarding the tuning of TDIs and TDs of the A3 and A4 generation. I know there aren’t many people who want to modify a wheeled oven, but can you really increase the power of a diesel significantly? I recently test drove a 2000 Golf GL TDI 2-door and it reminded me a bit of my A2 Golf GTI 16V or my ’84 A1 Rabbit GTI. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

GT Acton

Montreal, Quebec, Canada

TDIs can definitely rock. The right bits and parts will get you 300 lb-ft of torque—and eat clutches regularly. (A battered 1.8T won’t touch 200 lb-ft…) The latest iterations of the TDI engine found in the A3 and A4 VWs certainly take modifications well. As with their turbocharged petrol brethren, the most common performance mod for the TDI is an ECU mod or chip.

As with other ECU mods, it generally changes fueling, timing, and boost parameters to extract more horsepower. The most common are Upsolute (www.upsolute.com) and Wetterauer (www.chip-tuning.com). Upsolute claims a power increase from 90 hp to 116 hp and a torque increase from 210 Nm to 265 Nm. Wetterauer claims a power increase from 90 hp to 115 hp and a torque increase from 153 lb-ft to 183 lb-ft.

Another simpler alternative is the “black box” approach: the Tuning Box from HS Motorsports (Ontario, Canada, 519/570-3648; www.hsmotorsports.com). The performance gains appear to be similar to those of a chip, but installation (and removal) is much easier; You tap into a boost line and plug it in between two stock wire connectors. Painless and powerful; and highly recommended. However, the tuning box requires some adjustments to ensure proper installation, but they are relatively easy.

I would also look for an exhaust system, as like most turbocharged engines, TDIs like to have a free-flowing exhaust. Techtonics makes a nice 2.5-inch. System for your car in either aluminized or stainless and should be good for around 10hp. It would be a great addition along with the ECU or tuning box modifications. The next step would be larger injectors. www.kermatdi.com has Powerplus and Sprint injector nozzles that we expect to test in the near future. You should take your TDI even further.

A great online source for information about TDI is the TDI Club at (www.tdiclub.com). There you will find plenty of information on everything from basic maintenance to wild performance mods from a reputable and well moderated group.

New 2003 Golf GLS 2.0L

I just bought a 2003 Canadian Golf GLS with the 115hp 2.0 liter engine. I’d like to make some performance upgrades to it though. I’ve been looking for an aftermarket air intake to make breathing a little easier but couldn’t find a manufacturer that makes one for the 2.0L Golf. Do you happen to know a manufacturer who makes something like this? And if there are several, which one is the best?

My VW dealer also offers a dual-flow performance exhaust for my Golf, which is in his standard parts catalogue. Do you know that this thing offers any real gains and how it sounds?

Kevin Johnston

Ontario, Canada

Several cold air intakes from different manufacturers are available for the 2.0 liter engine. Some may require some modification to fit (reducing the pipe diameter at the connection to the mass air flow sensor, but most will fit. Is there any real benefit from having a cold air intake located in the lower part of the front grille? Well, probably around 5 hp. Note though that you need to keep them clean to get the best out of them, and that requires fairly frequent removal, cleaning, and re-oiling.

Eurosport (http://www.eurosportacc.com/) makes a nice part that comes with an ITG filter. They also make a cold air intake box with the same filter for the engine bay which is a bit cheaper and will give you about the same performance. As for the exhaust, the VW aftermarket exhaust is a nice product with a nice tone, but very expensive for what you get and it doesn’t give you the horsepower gains that a true cat-back aftermarket system does will achieve. Techtonics Tuning (https://www.techtonicstuning.com/) manufactures a variety of different exhaust systems for your car, from aluminized to fully stainless, with options for different mufflers, etc. same price as the VW Performance exhaust.

TDI performance parts

I’ve been reading European cars for at least 10 years. I still go back and read some articles about past vehicles. I have owned three VWs. My first was an 89 GTI 16V (Civic Eater), I loved that car. A ’95 2.0 GL that was totally written off after 11 months and then ended up with an ’84-1/2 Rabbit GTI with 16-in.O.Z.s and Nittos. The 84 was my favorite. I sold it 2 years ago and never should have. Considering its age and mileage – 206,250 miles (330,000 km) – it was impeccable and the engine was leaking.

Anyway, now that I’ve spilled my guts, I’m considering buying a 2000 2-door Golf TDI with air conditioning. I was wondering if there are aftermarket mods to increase TDI engine performance! I know there are parts like this, but where might I find them?

gary

Montreal, Quebec, Canada

The latest iterations of the TDI engine found in the A4 chassis VWs certainly take modifications well. As with their turbocharged petrol brethren, the most common performance mod for the TDI is an ECU mod or chip. As with other ECU mods, it generally changes fueling, timing, and boost parameters to extract more horsepower. The most common are Upsolute (www.upsolute.com) and Wetterauer (www.chip-tuning.com). Upsolute claims a power increase from 90 hp to 116 hp and a torque increase from 210 Nm to 265 Nm. Wetterauer claims an increase in horsepower from 90 hp to 115 hp and an increase in torque from 153 lb-ft to 183 lb-ft. Another simpler alternative is the “black box” approach. The tuning box from HS Motorsports (Ontario, Canada, (519) 570-3648; (www.hsmotorsports.com). The performance gains appear to be similar to those of a chip, but installation (and removal) is much easier; you tap attach a boost lead and snap it between two stock wire connectors. Painless and powerful; and highly recommended. However, the tuning box requires some adjustments to ensure proper installation, but they are relatively easy.

I would also look for an exhaust system as as with most turbocharged engines, TDIs like to have a free flowing exhaust. Techtonics makes a nice 2.5-inch. System for your car in either aluminized or stainless and should be good for around 10hp. It would be a great addition along with the ECU or tuning box modifications. The next step would be larger injectors. www.kermatdi.com has Powerplus and Sprint injector nozzles that we expect to test in the near future. You should take your TDI even further.

A great online source for information about TDI is the TDI Club at (www.tdiclub.com). There you will find plenty of information on everything from basic maintenance to wild performance mods from a reputable and well moderated group.

Volkswagen Golf II

I was wondering if it would be possible to put a 1988 Golf Digifant injection on my 1987 Golf. (Both cars are 1.8-liter 8V engines.)

Jordan Palmer

over the internet

While this is entirely possible, it adds no real value, would be quite expensive and would require extensive modifications to the vehicle, including wiring harnesses and all fuel injection components. I would stick with the CIS-e fuel injection system you already have in your 1987 Golf. Standard CIS-e injection is widely considered far more desirable.

Euro rear lights for Jettas

I bought a ’95 Jetta GL. I’ve tried all the ones I know but I couldn’t find any Euro taillights for my car. Do they even make them for my year and model?

Heather Turner

over the internet

I’m not entirely sure what you mean by euro taillights for the A3 Jetta. All 1993-1999 A3 Jettas use the same taillights and all are interchangeable. I’ve seen the stock A3 taillights with the amber turn signals, the taillights with tinted toplights including the turn signals on the GLX models, and some special editions like the TREK and Wolfsburg editions, and I’ve seen both fully tinted and fully see-through taillights from In-Pro, which are available from a variety of VW parts dealers such as PG Performance (www.pgperformance.com) and RPI-Ausrüstet (www.rpi-ausrüstet.com).

Standard Recaro seats

I recently bought a 1991 Jetta GLI with the stock Recaro seats. Are these seats compatible with a three or four piece harness?

Justin Keith

over the internet

The standard Recaros in your GLI are compatible with three or four-point belts. A good harness like a Schroth would be a good addition to your vehicle if you intend to use it for autocross or on the track. However, it should be noted that proper installation is critical or they may do more harm than good. New Dimensions (www.ndauto.com) carries three and four point seat belts that fit VWs.

Passat seats

I’m new to water-cooled VWs. I’ve been involved with pre 1967 VWs for many years and am a fan of Jettas and Passats, but only recently bought a ’00 Passat 1.8T. I love my Passat except for one thing, the seats. Ich habe manuelle Stoffsitze und einen schlechten Rücken, und ich finde diese Sitze sehr unbequem.

Meine Frage an Sie lautet: Ich möchte, dass diese Sitze vorne und hinten mit Leder wiederhergestellt und möglicherweise neu gepolstert werden, um sie für längere Fahrten weicher zu machen. Ist das möglich wegen der Airbags im Sitz? Würde ein High-End-Shop dies ohne Probleme tun können. Wäre es teuer, gebrauchte elektrische Sitze aus demselben Auto zu finden und sie mit Leder neu beziehen zu lassen, ohne die Airbags zu beeinträchtigen?

Jegliche Hilfe oder Vorschläge diesbezüglich sind sehr willkommen, da die Sitze wieder die einzigen Dinge sind, die mir nicht gefallen, und ich dieses Auto wirklich gerne behalten würde!

Ein Kanadier

Regina, Saskatchewan, Kanada

Jede hochwertige Autosattlerei, die über die entsprechende Ausstattung verfügt, kann Ihre Passat Sitze in Leder restaurieren. Die meisten guten Geschäfte haben die richtige Art von Faden zu verwenden, der sich löst und es den Airbags ermöglicht, sich richtig zu entfalten. Während Sie die Sitze wiederherstellen lassen, können Sie auch Änderungen an der Sitzpolsterung vornehmen lassen. Dies wäre höchstwahrscheinlich Ihre kostengünstigste Alternative.

Hätte ich einen Stock kaufen sollen?

Ich bin stolzer Besitzer eines 2002er Jetta 1.8T. Ich liebe dieses Auto, der einzige Nachteil ist, dass mein Verlobter zum Zeitpunkt des Kaufs darauf bestand, dass wir mit dem Automatikgetriebe statt mit dem Fünfganggetriebe fahren (hoffentlich können Sie sich auch auf dieses Problem beziehen). Die Dinge, die wir aus Liebe tun. Ich habe mich gefragt, was es bedeuten würde, die Automatik gegen einen Fünfgang auszutauschen. Könnte das Sechsganggetriebe verwendet werden, obwohl ich denke, dass es nur mit dem VR6 verfügbar ist? Stellt jemand ein Kit her, um diesen Austausch durchzuführen, und bin ich verrückt, überhaupt daran zu denken, es zu tun? Was auch immer Sie für Ratschläge geben könnten, wäre sehr willkommen.

Rob Szold

Toronto, Ontario, Kanada

Nun, Rob, ich muss zugeben, wir tun alle seltsame Dinge aus Liebe. Ein Sechsgang-Schaltgetriebe in den Jetta einzubauen, wäre unglaublich schwierig und unverschämt teuer. Sie wären viel besser dran, entweder den Jetta zu behalten und einen anderen VW mit Sechsgang-Schaltgetriebe zu kaufen oder den Jetta gegen einen mit Schaltgetriebe einzutauschen. Der neue Jetta GLI mit dem 24V VR6 und dem Sechsgang-Schaltgetriebe ist ein süßes Auto und kommt mit den 17-Zoll-Sportsitzen. Räder und andere Leckereien zu einem vernünftigen Preis.

VW-Aufhängung

Ich bin ein Fan von VW & Porsche, seit Sie 1978 auf dem Cover für den Lancia geworben haben. Ich habe vor kurzem einen Satz von 16-Zoll gekauft. VW Factory 2001 Felgen und ich besitze einen 99er Wolfsburg Jetta lll. Mir wurde vom Schrotthändler gesagt, dass er mir einen kompletten Umbau für 400 Dollar verkaufen kann, was nicht schlecht ist, aber wenn ich mir das Reparaturhandbuch ansehe, zeigt es, dass meine Aufhängung ähnlich der Plus-Aufhängung ohne ABS aufgebaut ist. Mein Auto zeigt mir das Basis-Setup, aber der Achsschenkel ist für einen VR6 eingerichtet. Kannst du mir helfen? Wäre es auch ratsam zu versuchen, eine ’98 GLS/VR6-Aufhängung für den Tausch zu finden?

Vincent – ​​VWer 4 Life

über das Internet

Es hört sich so an, als ob Ihr primäres Ziel darin besteht, von einem Laufrad mit vier Stollen auf ein Laufrad mit fünf Stollen umzusteigen, und Sie sind definitiv auf dem richtigen Weg. Da Sie Rotoren, Beläge, Bremssattel, Nabe, Lager, Spindel usw. ersetzen müssen, gehen Sie am besten zurück zum Schrottplatz, verwenden die VR6-Teile und tauschen sie einfach gegen Ihr Auto aus. Dadurch erhalten Sie 11,3 Zoll. Vorderradbremsen und Fünf-Stollen-Räder. Dasselbe kannst du auch mit den Hinterradbremsen machen. Es ist nicht notwendig, ABS zu haben, um diesen Umbau durchzuführen, also machen Sie sich keine Sorgen, dass Ihr Auto es nicht hat.

Turbotimer für Golf IV GTI

Ich wollte eure Meinung zu Turbotimern einholen. Ich habe gerade einen GTI 1.8t gekauft und mir wurde gesagt, ich solle mir einen Turbo-Timer besorgen, um die Lebensdauer meines Turboladers zu verlängern. Is that necessary? Wenn ja, welche Marke soll ich kaufen? HKS oder Greddy? Würde es auch die serienmäßige Diebstahlsicherung stören?

Mike Ruangutai

über das Internet

Turbo-Timer waren in der Ära vor synthetischen Ölen und wassergekühlten Turbos unerlässlich. Now? I think the factory 75,000 miles warranty on emissions-related components pretty well tells the story of how little extra is needed. The need for a turbo timer really depends on the climate you live in and your driving style. If your car is stock and you don’t live in an area where temperatures hit triple digits regularly, and you allow for a sufficient cool down period after driving extended periods, you really don’t need a turbo timer. It is also critical to do frequent oil changes with quality synthetic oil such as Mobil 1. Mobil 1 makes a 0-40 weight fully synthetic which meets or exceeds all of VW’s standards, and I would highly recommend using that and changing it every 5,000 miles along with a factory filter.

If you do live in a warm climate area, your car is modified and/or you do a fair amount of aggressive driving, a turbo timer is not a bad investment and both the units you mentioned are quality products. For those 2000 and 2001 VW you can install a turbo timer in a manner which allows the anti-theft system to work and retain the factory functions of the remote. However it does involve the use of an additional relay and a pretty thorough knowledge of the wiring of your car. It appears that the key to this install is whether your car has a factory Relay #6 which is tapped into as part of the install. A complete write up on how to install a turbo timer on an ’00 or ’01 VW can be found at this site: http://www.swankmonkey.com/turbotimer/. The 2002 and 2003 VWs do not use this Relay so this method won’t work on the later model cars.

1992 VW Cabriolet

Two weeks ago I bought a ’92 VW Cabriolet after a 20+ year addiction to mid 60s, early (’72) American cars. Initially I had no intention of modifying this car in any way. Now I find that I can’t stop myself (it’s a sickness). Everyone has made it clear that this is a “chick” car. I wonder how much that is true, thus I need your help. I’m told this car has a 1.8L, and it’s been too cold to do any more research than to ask my brother at the local VW dealership. Is the 1.8L in the same family as the 1.8t that you have created a “challenge” for? What do I need to do to get a little more (a lot more) power out of my car? In the most economical fashion, of course–in other words, the hard way. Are there any aftermarket brake and suspension kits or individual components you would suggest?

Lastly, is there any kind “frame-connectors” to tighten the car up a little? I was thinking along the lines of what is common for Firebird/Camaro applications. Okay, one more lastly: Is my car related to the Rabbit Convertible? When I tried to buy even wiper blades, I could not find a listing for a ’92 Cabriolet? Is that a Pep Boys thing or is the “Cab” a trim model for the Rabbit?

Doug Johnson

via the Internet

While the Cabrio will probably always been referred to as a “chick” car–I know of several examples that would definitely make people rethink that stereotype. The performance potential of the Cabrio is similar to that of any MKI VW. To answer your first question, yes the 1.8 engine in the Cabrio is a long distant relative of the current 1.8T, although it has very little in common and only shares the same displacement.

One of the best things you can do before undertaking any performance modifications on your car is to look at all your options and your budget. Anything is possible, from engine swaps to turbocharging and there have been a variety of different examples of each over the years. I would highly recommend check out some books and do a little reading to get a handle on what difference performance modifications like cams and exhausts can do for the 1.8 engine. Greg Raven’s book, “Water-Cooled Volkswagen Performance Handbook,” is a great place to get a range of ideas for increasing the performance of your car and can help you sort through the myriad options.

If you budget allows, turbocharging your car is also an option. A couple of tuners in California offer turbo “kits” or parts which will work on your car. For a “bolt-on” kit, New Dimensions (www.newdimensions.com) can provide you with a complete kit for your car, which is based upon the old Callaway turbo systems developed for the cars, although it will take some modifying to work on your particular car. ATP (www.8vturbo.com) is also a good source if you want to put together a system by yourself.

It’s a good thing that you are also looking to upgrade you brakes and suspension along with your power increases. Depending on your level of engine modifications, you could choose to simply upgrade the pads, rotors and brake lines along with some good high temp brake fluid such as Motul 600 or you could opt to upgrade the brakes to the larger brakes found on the 16V or VR6 cars. Autotech (www.autotech.com) as well as other tuners can provide you with complete “bolt-on” kits which allow you to upgrade you 9.4-in. front brakes to the larger 10.1-in. vented brakes found on the 16V cars or the even larger 11.3-in. brakes from the VR6 cars.

Remember, when going to larger brake systems, you need to make sure that you have wheels large enough to clear the larger rotors and calipers and that you have an appropriately sized master cylinder for the larger caliper pistons.. You’ll need a minimum of 15-in. wheels for the 11.3-in. brake kits and a larger master cylinder to retain the safety of a dual braking system.

As for suspension, there are many choices out there offering a variety of different amounts of lowering to varying degrees of stiffness. If you plan on using the car as a daily driver, a set of sport springs and good shocks would be the way to go. Some companies like KW and H&R provide complete sets sold with matching springs and shocks or you could opt for either Bilstein, Boge or Koni shocks along with Neuspeed, Eibach, Shine Racing or H&R springs.

All of these combos will work well on the street and offer slight to modest amounts of lowering. H&R also offers sport springs with a minimum amount of lowering if you want to keep your wheel travel for better handling on rough roads. As for chassis braces, they are available from several sources including Neuspeed and Euro Sport Accessories, who make both upper and lower braces for the A1 chassis.

Your Cabrio is often called a Rabbit Convertible, which is what is was called when it originally hit the U.S. market, so don’t worry if the parts are listed for a Rabbit Convertible or a Cabriolet (Cabrio is the A3 drop-top Golf), if they are for the right year car, they will work fine.

Suspension Help

I have a 2002 Jetta IV TDI with 15-in. Michelin Energy tires and I was wondering what I should do to make my Jetta handle with out any body roll and to make it safer. I was looking at some H &R O.E. Sport springs and I was wondering if that was the solution?

David Hubbard

via the Internet

The H&R O.E. Sport Springs will definitely help reduce body roll on your car. However, I’d hesitate to put them on the car without upgrading your shocks as well. H&R Cup shocks or Bilstein HDs are a great match for the O.E. Sports and will ensure that your shocks can handle the added spring rates of the O.E. Sports. Also going to a tire with a smaller and or stiffer sidewall than the stock Michelin Energy tires will also help your cars handling.

Depending on the conditions of your roads, wheels as large as 17 in. with the right size tire can still be fitted on the car without sacrificing too much comfort. The added weight of larger wheels will definitely be noticed and will slow down your TDIs acceleration.. If your road conditions are poor, I wouldn’t recommend going with anything larger than a 16-in. wheel and tire combination. One excellent Z rated and M+S rated tire in 15 in. is the Dunlop SP 5000. The tire combines a relatively stiff sidewall and good handling and decent tread life for a Z-rated tire.

VW GTI VR6 MKIV

I was searching for a side-exit exhaust system for a 2001 GTI VR6. Are there any companies that manufacture them? I wasn’t looking to get one custom made. I’d also like to say that your magazine is great and that I enjoy reading every page of it.

Mario Di Cesare

Lake Orion, Michigan

After searching high and low, I’ve yet to find any company that offers a side exhaust system for your GTI. The main problem is that the main muffler is located behind the rear axle and there is very limited room before the axle for decent sized muffler. It looks like custom will be the only way to go in this situation. I’m sure a good shop could figure out a way to design a decent side exiting exhaust for your car.

Need Help With a 2000 Jetta 2.0

I just picked up a 2000 Jetta with a 2.0 and a five-speed. It’s a nice car, but it is way too slow. I was wondering if there are any turbo kits offered for it? (I was thinking about the Neuspeed supercharger, but $3,000 for only 50 hp is pretty cruel, if you ask me). Also do you know of any swap kits for the 1.8T. I am in college right now so the more bang for the buck the better.

Vincent Good

via the Internet

I wouldn’t discount the Neuspeed supercharger so quickly. As far as bang for the buck is concerned, it’s a pretty good solution, mainly because it is very easy to install as compared to turbochargers etc. Although the peak horsepower from the kit isn’t very high, it is very well designed and will work well with the factory drivetrain etc. minimizing the need for additional upgrades, such as the clutch, brakes etc. The increase in torque will leave the guys with $3,000 worth of engine modifications in the dust.

There are several turbo and supercharger systems out there, such as VF Engineering’s supercharger (www.vf-engineering.com) as well at ATP Turbosystems turbo kits (www.8vturbo.com). However, none of these solutions if implemented correctly are inexpensive. ATP claims 175 hp for their Stage I and 200 hp for their Stage II kits, at $2,150 and $2,950 respectively. VF claims 170 hp for the Stage I kit at $3,500, 190 for a Stage II for an additional $500 and 220 hp for Stage III which adds an intercooler and $1500 more to the price.

Unless you have the facilities and knowledge to do the install yourself, you’ll need to add about $600-$1,000 on top of those figures to the total cost. The Neuspeed supercharger is much, much simpler to install than any turbo kit, and is emissions legal as well. To our knowledge, you’ll be pulling off your Turbo kit for to pass your annual or semi-annual inspection–not our idea of fun. If you are going to be adding that much additional horsepower to the car, I’d also suggest upgrading your brakes and or suspension as well.

As for a 1.8T swap, this would be a relatively simple swap if you got the engine and wiring harnesses as a complete package from a salvage yard. Going prices for these engines are about $2,500 to $3,000 depending on mileage, etc. Again, Volkswagen provided from the factory the 1.8T cars with larger brakes and a variety of other drivetrain enhancements to handle the additional power of the engine.

Custom MKIV Exhaust

I checked out your website and I like what you guys did with the sound clips of the different exhausts. I’m wondering if the Autobahn Designs cat-back was custom. I went to www.abdracing.com, and it lists only the Supersprint, Techtonics Tuning and Brospeed, but nothing as just ABD Racing. I was interested in the exhaust for my MKIV because it has a nice sound. Danke im Voraus!

Nicole LeGette

via the Internet

We’re sorry, Nicole, that particular exhaust isn’t available at this time. We forwarded your inquiry to Dave Anderson, proprietor of Autobahn Designs, and received the response below. ABD is friendly and efficient about answering its phone and email, so don’t be afraid to contact it directly with questions about the products it sells.

“We never offered an actual production part for the Jetta. We did, however, have a unit for the Golf, a limited production run that we have just recently sold out. The part was on the site but has been removed. We do offer a similar system, manufactured by Brospeed in South Africa. The system is fully polished stainless steel, 60mm diameter all the way through and has two different tip options-dual round or dual DTM style. The parts are in stock. This system looks the same as the one in 1.8T exhaust test, only the tips are slightly different.” –ABD Racing

Needs Nut Help

In your April 2002 issue, in the “Tech Procedure: VW” article, a “large, flat nut” is mentioned a few times in a couple of picture captions and the main text. Is this nut in question available from the dealer, or can it only be purchased through Autotech? I ordered what I thought would be the “large, flat nut” from the dealer, but it turned out to be just a regular nut. I’m a little confused. A part number would be fantastic. Thank you kindly.

DP

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

According to the parts guys at Bill Cooke Imports (607/257-1515), you are looking for a “Threaded Bushing,” part # 811 412 365. The strut assembly sequence goes like this: lower spring perch, helper spring (H&R), spring, upper spring seat/retainer, bearing (two pieces) and the threaded bushing. It will make sense when you have all the pieces in front of you. You MUST use a spring compressor to disassemble the stock strut and retrieve the threaded bushing, hence my suggestion. I was able to hold the H&R springs in place by hand while Dan tightened the threaded bushing when we assembled the H&R strut. Check the Bentley Manual for illustrated instructions. Bentley says torque the TB to 44 lb-ft. Hope that helps.

Tim McKinney

Golf 2.0 8V Tweaks

I own a 96 2.0L 8V Golf. I am trying to find some headers for it and I can’t find them anywhere. I was hoping you guys could point me in the correct direction. Also, I keep hearing my engine called a crossflow versus the older 2.0L 8V. Could you explain the difference? thanks

Marcus Taber

First thing first. The Bosal Performance header (part #999-776) fits your car properly. Bosal only lists the header for Golf and Jetta III thru 1994 because, while they have made the header so that it is “smog legal” or C.A.R.B. compliant for all of the Golf and Jetta IIIs through 1998, they have only completed the certification paperwork for the OBD I cars, which run through 1994. The header itself will not change your tailpipe emissions, and that is why Bosal is able to get it certified but, as a rule of thumb, anytime you are changing anything between the air flow meter and the catalytic converter, be aware that to be legal in many states it will need to have a C.A.R.B. EO number (California Air Resources Board Executive Order). You can check with the manufacturer or C.A.R.B. (http://www.arb.ca.gov). What this means to you is that if you are in California or any state that requires a periodic visual inspection, you should wait until Bosal has completed the certification so you don’t run into any problems with your smog check. If you are not in one of those states, purchase it whenever you’d like.

As for your two-part second question first, the 2.0-liter 8V VWs in the U.S. only came with the crossflow head. There were no older 2.0-ltr. VWs. Prior to 1993, when VW started using the 2.0-liter. 8V engine, all 8V engines were 1.8 liter. (or smaller prior to 1983). Now, there were Audi models that had the 2.0 liter. 8V engine with the non-crossflow head, and there were a lot of people transplanting those into VW, but they were not factory. Second, the difference between the 8V crossflow head and the earlier 8V head is just what it sounds like. The earlier heads had both the intake and exhaust ports on the same side. In the VWs, this was the backside of the motor, which always made doing any work back there loads of fun.

The crossflow head, on the other hand, had the intake and exhaust ports on opposite sides of the head. This put the intake ports on the front of the engine, and the exhaust, of course, on the backside. For a definite answer on why this was done, you’d have to speak to a VW engineer, but I believe it was primarily for improved safety in a front-end accident. By moving the intake ports to the front, it allowed for a little more room, and a little more of a safety margin, before the engine pushed into the firewall. It made a more attractive engine compartment, the intake manifold giving a more finished appearance.

Jeremy Wolf

Wanted: Stroker Motor

I am thinking of building a turbo 2.0 stroker for my ’86 Jetta. However, I am having trouble finding info on this subject. If you have anything that could help me, that would be great. Thanks for your time.

Nick Taggard

Nick,This is a subject that would require an entire book to cover properly, and I don’t have enough room here to do that. I will, however, cover some initial basics and send you in the right direction.

I assume that your 1986 Jetta is an 8V. First, if you are serious about turbocharging it, I would not bother increasing the displacement to 2.0 liters. You would be much better off to spend that same money on better components for the turbo system, or increasing the strength of some of the components in your 1.8-liter engine to be able to get the most horsepower out of it.

Second, whatever you end up doing, be realistic about your goals, and use your head. If you spend all your money on the turbo system and end up with a 250-bhp car with glazed brakes and blown shocks, it’ll be all fun and games (everybody together now) until someone gets hurt. Always balance engine performance increases with enhancements that will allow you to use that additional horsepower. One thing that always seems to get left off that list is the most important performance enhancement driver training and experience. In most areas, there are autocross events and driving schools that can be attended for a reasonable amount of money and give you a safe place to learn your limits, and your car’s.

Last, before you run out and purchase components or kits, I would highly recommend you pick up some books and do a little reading. Greg Raven’s book, “Water-Cooled Volkswagen Performance Handbook,” is a great place to get a range of ideas for increasing the performance of your car and can help to direct you to your goals. Also, while it can get a bit technical for people just starting out in the performance world, Corky Bell’s book, “Maximum Boost,” covers a wide range of issues relating to aftermarket turbocharging. Both books will most likely be available through Amazon.com, but since you are a VW enthusiast, I suggest that you support the industry by finding one of the VW tuners that sells the books and purchase from them. If your tuner of choice does not sell them, keep looking or ask them to get them for you. All of the VW shops should stock at least Greg Raven’s book, and if they sell turbo kits or components, they should also stock Corky Bell’s book.

As far as sources for the actual parts you will want, your best bet is to go to one of the VW tuners that has experience with turbocharging. New Dimensions (www.newdimensions.com) has a complete kit for your car, and they have sold the kits ever since they purchased the tooling from Reeves Callaway when he gave up VWs for Corvettes. Also, if you want to piece together something yourself, you can also go to ATP (www.8vturbo.com). Jeremy Wolf

Cold Air Intakes

I have a 2001 GTI 1.8T and have a question regarding the use of a cold air intake on my car. I have seen companies such as AEM and K&N with cold air intakes that replace the entire stock air cleaner box and pull the air from within the fender, away from the hot engine compartment. They say these systems are worth 8-10 hp. How can that be since the turbo is going to heat up the intake charge anyway, thus killing any benefit you would have gotten from the cooler charge. The only benefit that I see is they might allow more airflow to the turbo. Do you think this is a worthy modification or just a bunch of hype?

Via the Internet

I’m going to try to answer these questions without getting into a bunch of numbers and formulas. I think I might be able to control myself. I have no intent to talk down to anyone, but the simpler I make the explanation, the more people that will benefit. If the only benefit of the modification turns out to be that it allows more airflow to the turbo, don’t you think that it is a worthy modification? If the turbo can flow more air, and the factory air box or intake plumbing is a restriction, then clearly, since air equals power, it is a very worthy modification.As far as the intake temperature is concerned, we know the turbo, as a byproduct of compression, heats the air, and that cooler air is denser, then don’t we want to start with air that is as cool as possible? You will be heating the air, either a certain percentage or a certain number of degrees over the actual intake temperature before the turbo (forgetting, once again, about all those formulas, and variables such as intercooling, heat soak, etc.). If your actual intake temperature before the turbo is 10°C, and your turbo, at a certain boost level, adds 20°C (or 20%; random round numbers), then you have an intake charge of 120°C. But, if you start with an intake temperature before the turbo of 80°C, and the same boost level, adding 20°C(or even better 20%, which makes it 16°C), then your intake charge will only be 100°C, which means a denser intake charge and more power. So, if the upgrade allows for more air, cooler air, or both, then it is a worthy modification.

Jeremy Wolf

Jetta Lighting

First of all, thank you for many years of a great magazine. I am planning on building two A2 cars. Going through quite a large pile of your mags, I found my favorite issue of VW Power. On the cover it has a MEAN-looking Red GTI with black O.Z. wheels and a G60. You remember the issue? Anyhow, after years of hating those rally lights, I suddenly developed a deep lust for them. Where can I get a set, and do they make more/better light than the 16V quad-headlight conversion? While writing about lights, I am interested in aftermarket taillights for an A2 Jetta. Any ideas?

Jon Parke

Reading, Pennsylvania

Yes, I do remember the car, and the Rallye Golf headlights that it had been equipped with. I developed that same deep lust for them, but it was the first time that I saw their light output on a dark mountain road. They are the best factory lighting you can get for the A2 chassis cars, and while the light output is better than the 16V four-headlight conversion, the 16V setup is still a very good setup, especially if you can find a kit with the Hella FF (Free Form), which Hella discontinued about four years ago.

There are still a few companies that will sell you all the components to put the Rallye Golf lights in your car, but the prices have continued to increase from what was an already pricey item back when they first became available in the U.S. aftermarket. You can expect to pay over $1,000 for all the parts to do the conversion. For lighting products, two great sources which could probably provide you with both the Rallye Golf lights and taillights are RPI (www.rpiequipped.com) and Virtual World Parts (www.parts4vws.com), both of whom import O.E.-type parts directly from Europe.

Jeremy Wolf

GTI 1.8 Power

I own a 1990 GTI Wolfsburg edition, with a stock 1.8l. I am interested in increasing the car’s performance but don’t want to change motors, as this car has under 40k original and is very tight. I have put oversized sway bars and tower flex on but would like to get more out of the engine compartment. Could you recommend improvements I could make? It seems this engine gets ignored with the 2.0 and 16V out there. Many Thanks

George G.

Unfortunately, you are correct. The 1.8-liter engine in your car does get ignored compared to most of the other motors in the VW lineup. The primary reason for this is the fuel injection/engine management system on that car. The Digifant II system is one that most of the VW tuners did not touch and therefore leaves you, the enthusiast, with fewer options for increasing the output of the existing engine. Your situation, however, is far from hopeless.

The first thing to do in the range of increasing engine performance would be the exhaust system. If you have the exhaust manifold with the single outlet, which came primarily on California cars, that is where you start. You’ll need to replace that manifold and downpipe with either a factory dual-outlet manifold or a short header. You can usually get the manifold and downpipe from a dismantler. I have always had great luck using VW Parts (800/VWPARTS). They really know their Volkswagens and Audis and will be able to get you what you need. As for the header, the best thing out there is the Bosal Performance header (part # 999-776). t is extremely well made and fits perfectly and retains the catalytic converter. If you make one of these changes, you’ll also need to replace the catalytic converter since the downpipe (or header) to cat flanges are different. The best direct-fit aftermarket catalytic converters I’ve come across have come from either Eurosport Accessories (www.eurosportacc.com) or Techtonics Tuning (www.tttuning.com). From there, it is a relatively simple matter of getting a performance cat-back exhaust system. I like the systems from all three of the companies above, and each has some different benefits.

After the exhaust system you should contact GIAC (www.giacusa.com) for a chip. They only list their chip for the 1991 cars with the ECU number ending in 023), and have been too busy with developing software for the new cars to get to the other ECUs.

After the above, I’d recommend a mild camshaft, such as the Neuspeed 260 degree cam (part # 60.10.21), which will add some additional top end performance, with little, if any loss in the low end.

The last things, which you clearly are not interested in, would be to replace the bottom end of the engine with a factory 2.0-liter one, and do some mild porting to the cylinder head. These would net a significant gain in useable horsepower, but would be far more expensive than the bolt-ons previously mentioned. Keep in mind that all of the above are virtually useless if your engine is not in good shape to begin with. Simple things, such as normal tune-up items, will really be the first place to start.Good luck.

Jeremy Wolf

GTI Spring/Struts

I am in the market for a new strut/spring combo and I need a little help. I drive a ’96 GTI VR6 and with Spax adjustable dampers with Spax springs. I have owned three pairs of these struts, all of which have ended up leaking. This is somewhat of a mystery to me because I’m not particularly hard on my car at all, and I’m not track racing on weekends either. At this point, I am a bit weary about purchasing new performance struts.

Basically, I’m looking for a strut/spring combo that isn’t going to make my car rattle every time I hit a pebble, but I don’t want to feel like I’m driving a boat, either. I have been looking into Tokico blue struts with Neuspeed sport springs. I guess my question is, what spring/strut combo would you guys recommend for a quasi-enthusiast like myself?

Seth Levy

Seth, Your problems with Spax are not entirely unheard of. While I understand that Spax has worked hard to correct any potential problems in their product line, the experiences of people such as yourself have somewhat soured my opinion of their product line.

I can understand your reluctance to purchase new performance suspension, but I feel strongly that there are a number of brands that will most likely outlast the your ownership of the car. While they may end up being a little more expensive for the initial purchase, the savings you will have from not having to replace them will more than compensate for that additional cost.

If you go the shocks and springs route, I would recommend Bilstein Sport shocks with either the Neuspeed Sport springs or the H&R Sport springs. The Bilstein Sport shocks have very similar valving to the Bilstein HD shocks but have shortened shafts for use in lowered applications. Both the Neuspeed and H&R springs will be approximately 30% stiffer than your stock springs, lower your car about 1.5 in. up front and 1.3 in. at the rear. In conjunction with the Bilstein shocks, they,’ll give you a nice firm ride but maintain most of the comfort.Beyond those combinations, you can go to the H&R Cup Kit, which will be noticeably firmer and lower your car about 2 in. up front and 1.7 in. at the rear. From what you have said, any of these combinations will most likely satisfy your needs. In addition, all of these products are covered by limited lifetime warranties, which, because of the quality of the components, you will most likely never need. Since comfort is such a subjective thing, you may want to use some of the internet resources to try to find other enthusiasts in your area who have some of these combinations and arrange to go for a ride. Much luck.

Jeremy Wolf

Problematic Passat

Please could you tell me why a 2000 Passat would constantly have the same problem of a loudly creaking driver’s door with any car maneuver. It is quite unbearable, and my dealership still has not fixed.

A Vexed Passat Driver

Dear Vexed,

This question reminds me of a sign I once saw in a mechanic’s shop, and when I had my own shop, I searched high and low, to no avail, looking for one. It was a list of noises like “pling-pling-pop” and listed a repair cost for each noise.I am not making fun of you plight. It is just near impossible to diagnose a problem by a description of a noise, especially by e-mail.

What I would highly recommend is if your dealer fails to correct the problem in two to three visits, you should contact Volkswagen of America (VOA) directly. From what I have heard from people who have had problems that their local dealer was unable to fix, Volkswagen will make sure that the problem gets taken care of. The phone number for VOA should be in the literature that came with your car.

Jeremy Wolf

VR6 Upgrades

I own a 2001 VW GTI VR6, and I am curious to see if I can safely upgrade the engine. As you probably already know, the VR6 has 174 bhp, and I was interested in increasing that to 200 bhp or a little more. I know that the 1.8t is more “turbo friendly” because it obviously comes with a built-in turbo that is easy to modify. I’m not looking to spend a fortune, just a few relatively inexpensive mods, like a new exhaust system. For example, Neuspeed e-mailed me and recommended that I go with their cat-back exhaust, P-Flo and P-Chip. I just want to make sure that any mods that I do will not damage the engine. Any advice you have to offer would be greatly appreciated!

Sean Warren

sean,

Because of the number of variables involved, it is always difficult to determine that a certain group of modifications will yield a specific horsepower gain. Most manufacturers will give you approximate numbers, based on their testing. The motor you have is a very strong one out of the box, and most tuners believe that VW underrated the stock horsepower figures.

I think that the recommendations from the people at Neuspeed are a great way to get going and will probably get you close to your goal, if not over it. In addition, there are a number of other companies that will offer parts that compete with or complement the ones offered by Neuspeed, many of whom are also advertisers in european car.

As far as damaging the engine, it is highly unlikely, if not completely impossible, that any of the modifications you are considering would cause any damage to the engine. If you make sure to buy products from reputable companies, you will most likely never have problems with them causing any damage to your car if they are installed properly.

Jeremy Wolf

Website Search

I am a subscriber to your mag, and I love it. I was just wondering if you knew the Website for the European mag Golf (a VW Golf-specific mag).I have a Golf GTI and I want that mag also. Any info would be much appreciated! thanks

Scott Paulson

Scott,The Golf is a great European magazine. Along with Performance VW and to a lesser extent Max Power (the real one from the U.K.), it really covers the latest trends in aftermarket products and performance tuning in Europe. Although I was unable to find a Website for The Golf, I do have a source that may prove useful. EWA Cars in Green Brook, New Jersey imports The Golf and a number of other great European titles. It may be able to provide you with a website address, but if not, they can definitely provide you with a subscription to the magazine, delivered to you monthly, so you won’t keep missing them at the local newsstand. You can check out its Website at www.ewacars.com, or call them directly at (732) 424-7811.

Jeremy Wolf

Jetta Clutch Repair

I have a 1988 VW Jetta 16V, I would like to R&R my clutch. Can you offer any help plus other aids, books, videos, etc.?

Fervin

Fervin;

Well, as far as offering any help, I’m afraid that my contract with the magazine does not cover actually doing any work on cars.

But seriously, your best place to start is by purchasing a Bentley Manual for your car. It will have information such as torque specifications and special tools required for the job that you should know before you start dismantling your car. While some of the special tools listed are a necessity to complete the job, others you can get away without or substitute something else. As an example, I used to substitute a few bolts and a piece of chain for the flywheel-locking tool that the Bentley Manual lists.

However, the Bentley Manual will also list an engine support fixture and a number of attachments to hold up the engine while the transmission is out of the car. While you do not need that exact device, you will need to securely support the engine, since one of the three mounting points will be removed.As far as other books or videos, I unfortunately know of none, nor was I able to find any on the Internet. Since this is probably your first time tackling a job like this, you may want to see if you can find another VW enthusiast in your area who has experience doing this job and get their help.

When it debuted in the early 1990s, Volkswagen’s VR6 engine was quite revolutionary. By arranging six cylinders in a zig-zag pattern on a cylinder head, VW managed to pack V6-level power into an engine not much larger than an inline-four. The VR6 has made memorable appearances in various VW performance cars such as the Corrado and various Golf models, gaining a cult following in the process.

Wikimedia Commons/Toffguy

Today the VR6 is still used in the VW Atlas SUV, Passat and Porsche Cayenne, but unfortunately that configuration is on its way out. YouTubers Engineering Explained and the Humble Mechanic explain why in this new video.

Essentially, the turbocharged inline-four eliminates the need for the VR6 by offering similar performance with better fuel economy in a smaller, lighter package. The VR6 was developed before turbo technology helped produce high-torque, powerful four-cylinders with minimal lag and good reliability. That made the VR6 useful in high-performance cars at the time, but now it’s an engine of no great use.

In the VW Atlas, for example, the VR6 doesn’t offer much more torque than its four-cylinder companion, and its powerband is narrower. Currently you can’t even get a new VW with a VR6 engine in Europe.

The VR6 isn’t quite dead, however. Bentley’s W12 engine is basically two VR6s arranged in a V and connected to a common crank. So if you’re sad you can’t buy a Golf with a VR6, buy a Continental GT I suppose.

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Reliability and durability, while related, are not the same when it comes to maintenance. After all, if you have to constantly swap out parts in your engine to keep it running, that’s not a reliable engine. However, sometimes long-lasting thrusters just need a few modifications or upgrades to make them easier to manage. This is the case with the Volkswagen VR6 engine.

The VR6 is a special engine for Volkswagen fans

Despite being superseded by lighter, smaller and more efficient turbocharged engines, the Volkswagen VR6 was a “quite revolutionary” engine, reports Road & Track. Like a V6, it has two banks of three cylinders, DriveTribe explains. However, unlike a conventional V6, the Volkswagen VR6 has only one cylinder head.

This arrangement allowed Volkswagen to put V6 performance in cars that were only suitable for four-cylinder engines, explains R&T. Not only did it fit into the small engine bays, but it didn’t affect weight distribution as much as a “normal” V6. So you have more power without messing up the handling.

2004 Volkswagen Golf R32 3.2 liter VR6 engine | Volkswagen

The first 2.8-liter VR6 engine appeared in the 1992 Volkswagen Corrado and contemporary Passat, reports Drifted. It later found its way into cars like the Jetta, Mk4 Golf GTI, Phaeton and even the Touareg and Atlas. But arguably the most iconic version is the 2004 and 2008 Golf R32. These AWD hot hatches have 3.2-liter VR6 engines with 240 hp in the 2004 car and 250 hp in the 2008 car. And an engine note that describes automobiles as a “sweet, rippling aria.”

But Volkswagen didn’t just use the VR6 in VW-badged cars. The engine eventually found its way into the Porsche Cayenne, as well as the Audi TT, A3 and Q7, EnginesWork reports. And the VR6 forms the basis of the Bentley Continental GT’s W12 engine, reports R&T. Even the Bugatti W16 engine uses “VR” technology, reports DriveTribe.

Although durable, the Volkswagen VR6 has some reliability issues

Despite no longer being at the forefront of engine design, the Volkswagen VR6 can be a long-lasting engine, reports VW Tuning. However, it is not without flaws.

A common complaint revolves around the ignition system. Early VR6s have coil packs, while later models use ignition coils, reports VW Tuning. And based on numerous forum threads on places like VW Vortex and r/Volkswagen, the VR6 appears to be prone to ignition coil and coil pack failures. Engines Work and VW Tuning support these claims.

NHTSA also has a complaint from a 2004 R32 owner who claims his car’s coil pack caught fire while driving on the freeway. However, it is worth noting that the R32 has ignition coils, not a coil pack.

RELATED: What’s the best year for the Volkswagen GTI?

The Volkswagen VR6 also has some heat-related issues. The engine’s water pump has several plastic parts that wear out and break over time, reports VW Tuning. Also, the plastic coolant tube is reportedly so notorious for cracking that it’s colloquially known as a “crack tube,” reports EuroWise. This could be partly due to the tight confines of the engine bay, muses Griffins Auto Repair. Also, engine overheating can lead to head gasket failure, another age-related VR6 issue, reports DustRunners Auto. In addition, a “warm stall” phenomenon may occur.

Also, the Volkswagen VR6 has some issues with its serpentine belt tensioner and timing chain, report Drifted and VW Tuning. But it’s less of a blemish and more of an age-related development. While timing chains generally last longer than belts, they will eventually need to be replaced. The situation is similar with the serpentine belt and tensioner.

Fortunately, most of these problems are fixable today

The good news is that none of these issues are necessarily deal-breakers. The Volkswagen VR6 chain and belt are wearing parts in many engines. Just follow the maintenance schedule and monitor your engine.

RELATED: Is There a Cheap, Reliable Used Bentley?

Regarding the “crack pipe” and water pump, sites like Gruven Parts offer aftermarket metal versions of these parts. And it should be noted that radiators and their various hoses will eventually need to be replaced.

As for the coil packs and ignition coils, Volkswagen has issued a recall on the 2.8-liter VR6s, reports Consumer Affairs. As with the other engines, the NHTSA investigated the issue but did not issue a recall, reports VW Problems. In the meantime, however, Volkswagen has revised the ignition coils several times, report NHTSA and ECS Tuning. Several users of the VW Vortex forum claim that these new parts do not perform like the earlier ones.

Finally, the problem of the “warm stall” was addressed via a Volkswagen TSB. All that’s needed is an ECU reflash to update the software, NHTSA and VW Tuning report.

RELATED: The Volkswagen Beetle RSI: An $80,000 Golf R32 preview

Of course, if you are considering buying a used Volkswagen with a VR6, we recommend that you carry out a pre-inspection. But with a few tweaks, it can be both a durable and reliable motor.

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Reliability and durability, while related, are not the same when it comes to maintenance. After all, if you have to constantly swap out parts in your engine to keep it running, that’s not a reliable engine. However, sometimes long-lasting thrusters just need a few modifications or upgrades to make them easier to manage. This is the case with the Volkswagen VR6 engine.

The VR6 is a special engine for Volkswagen fans

Despite being superseded by lighter, smaller and more efficient turbocharged engines, the Volkswagen VR6 was a “quite revolutionary” engine, reports Road & Track. Like a V6, it has two banks of three cylinders, DriveTribe explains. However, unlike a conventional V6, the Volkswagen VR6 has only one cylinder head.

This arrangement allowed Volkswagen to put V6 performance in cars that were only suitable for four-cylinder engines, explains R&T. Not only did it fit into the small engine bays, but it didn’t affect weight distribution as much as a “normal” V6. So you have more power without messing up the handling.

2004 Volkswagen Golf R32 3.2 liter VR6 engine | Volkswagen

The first 2.8-liter VR6 engine appeared in the 1992 Volkswagen Corrado and contemporary Passat, reports Drifted. It later found its way into cars like the Jetta, Mk4 Golf GTI, Phaeton and even the Touareg and Atlas. But arguably the most iconic version is the 2004 and 2008 Golf R32. These AWD hot hatches have 3.2-liter VR6 engines with 240 hp in the 2004 car and 250 hp in the 2008 car. And an engine note that describes automobiles as a “sweet, rippling aria.”

But Volkswagen didn’t just use the VR6 in VW-badged cars. The engine eventually found its way into the Porsche Cayenne, as well as the Audi TT, A3 and Q7, EnginesWork reports. And the VR6 forms the basis of the Bentley Continental GT’s W12 engine, reports R&T. Even the Bugatti W16 engine uses “VR” technology, reports DriveTribe.

Although durable, the Volkswagen VR6 has some reliability issues

Despite no longer being at the forefront of engine design, the Volkswagen VR6 can be a long-lasting engine, reports VW Tuning. However, it is not without flaws.

A common complaint revolves around the ignition system. Early VR6s have coil packs, while later models use ignition coils, reports VW Tuning. And based on numerous forum threads on places like VW Vortex and r/Volkswagen, the VR6 appears to be prone to ignition coil and coil pack failures. Engines Work and VW Tuning support these claims.

NHTSA also has a complaint from a 2004 R32 owner who claims his car’s coil pack caught fire while driving on the freeway. However, it is worth noting that the R32 has ignition coils, not a coil pack.

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The Volkswagen VR6 also has some heat-related issues. The engine’s water pump has several plastic parts that wear out and break over time, reports VW Tuning. Also, the plastic coolant tube is reportedly so notorious for cracking that it’s colloquially known as a “crack tube,” reports EuroWise. This could be partly due to the tight confines of the engine bay, muses Griffins Auto Repair. Also, engine overheating can lead to head gasket failure, another age-related VR6 issue, reports DustRunners Auto. In addition, a “warm stall” phenomenon may occur.

Also, the Volkswagen VR6 has some issues with its serpentine belt tensioner and timing chain, report Drifted and VW Tuning. But it’s less of a blemish and more of an age-related development. While timing chains generally last longer than belts, they will eventually need to be replaced. The situation is similar with the serpentine belt and tensioner.

Fortunately, most of these problems are fixable today

The good news is that none of these issues are necessarily deal-breakers. The Volkswagen VR6 chain and belt are wearing parts in many engines. Just follow the maintenance schedule and monitor your engine.

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Regarding the “crack pipe” and water pump, sites like Gruven Parts offer aftermarket metal versions of these parts. And it should be noted that radiators and their various hoses will eventually need to be replaced.

As for the coil packs and ignition coils, Volkswagen has issued a recall on the 2.8-liter VR6s, reports Consumer Affairs. As with the other engines, the NHTSA investigated the issue but did not issue a recall, reports VW Problems. In the meantime, however, Volkswagen has revised the ignition coils several times, report NHTSA and ECS Tuning. Several users of the VW Vortex forum claim that these new parts do not perform like the earlier ones.

Finally, the problem of the “warm stall” was addressed via a Volkswagen TSB. All that’s needed is an ECU reflash to update the software, NHTSA and VW Tuning report.

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Of course, if you are considering buying a used Volkswagen with a VR6, we recommend that you carry out a pre-inspection. But with a few tweaks, it can be both a durable and reliable motor.

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