How To Make Rosin With A Clothes Iron? The 128 Correct Answer

Basically, hash is just heated and pressurized kief. Applying heat and pressure to kief changes its composition by rupturing the resin glands and altering its taste, texture, and appearance. The color of kief typically darkens the more pressure is applied to it. Just as there are many ways to collect kief, there are many ways to make your own hash. Here’s an easy DIY method that involves parchment paper (not wax paper), an iron, and a buffer (like a t-shirt, thin towel, or even damp newspaper):

Heat the iron to the lowest setting – no steam

Take the parchment (adjust the amount to press – usually about a foot), fold it in half and place it on a surface ready to iron (preferably an ironing board).

Lay a thin layer of kief on the bottom half of the parchment paper (not too thick – about ¼ inch) and fold the top half over it, holding the kief towards the crease

Place the buffer over the parchment paper

Apply pressure with the iron for no more than 3 or 4 seconds at a time, for about 20 swipes, turning the side of the paper over every few swipes

Check your progress and adjust the heat or power of the swipes if they’re too fluffy or sticky

Don’t forget to turn off the iron

Click here for the top 5 uses for kief.

Click here to learn more about the different types of cannabis concentrates.

Rosin is the oil extracted from the flower through the application of heat and pressure over time. Of the various techniques for obtaining vegetable oil, rosin pressing is the simplest and safest. Just heating the flower and squeezing out the sticky substance seems like a pretty simple guide. However, many new printers find the process confusing. Let’s look at the three most common mistakes people make when trying to successfully bale rosin.

How is rosin made?

Rosin is the oil obtained through a mechanical process that uses heat and pressure for a period of time to “squeeze” the terpene and rich resin out of the cured flower. The rosin extraction process is very fast. In fact, extraction is almost instantaneous and requires almost no professional knowledge of botanical extractions.

The rosin extraction technician applies heat to melt the glandular domes of the trichrome from the base material of the flower onto parchment paper. The sticky, resinous sap then reconstitutes itself on the parchment, ready for collection. The technician scrapes the rosin from the parchment paper. The waxy residue collected in the clean rosin product is ready for dabbing.

Problems with obtaining rosin efficiently are usually due to one or more of these common mistakes people make early on:

Common Mistake #1: Using a Poor Quality Material

It is a common mistake to use a material that is dried out or genetically poorly suited to the rosin extraction process. To determine the quality of the starting material, its material density, trichome density, terpene profile, and active organic content are all measures that can be used. Remember that as with any end product, the quality of the end product is highly dependent on the quality of the materials that go into it.

Genetically better material contains more trichomes. The process used to dry and cure the material is also an important factor in the potential clarity of the rosin being extracted. Thus, the better the quality of your starting material, the better your extracted rosin product is likely to be on all quality measures, including yield, clarity, and desired effects for the user.

Common Mistake #2: Using an inappropriate rosin press

A poorly designed heating plate or a plate with hot spots due to inferior heating elements can cause frustration for extractors. Avoid using a device that is not specifically designed for making rosin, such as a a hair straightener, a repurposed t-shirt press, or inferior H-frames. These are unlikely to give good results. Using the right equipment makes it much easier to get consistently good quality results.

The MyPress solvent-free rosin press frame is made from specially engineered steel. The press is constructed from high-strength, double-heated Axiom stainless steel plates to allow for optimal heat transfer efficiency and to deliver powerful results and lasting durability.

When properly closed and latched, the press unit plates exert approximately 1400 psi at platen level. Nevertheless, the operation of the compact, lightweight device requires very little effort.

Common Mistakes #3. Using Incorrect Temperatures or Times

One of the easiest mistakes to correct is finding the best time and temperature to press. If the temperature is too high, the oil will be burned. This can lead to harshness in the end product and destroys many of the flavorful terpenes and desirable plant elements. If rosin is exposed to high temperatures above 240°F for too long, the rosin may darken significantly, which may indicate some loss of quality. Work within the recommended temperature range.

Temperature test – As each stem of a plant species is different, it can be expected that it will react differently to temperature and time during pressing. Test a small sample first. Test the sample material for between 90 and 120 seconds at 200-220°F to determine the optimum temperature and time frame settings for pressing each batch of material. Record your results so you can replicate your desired and preferred results in the future.

— Since every stem of a plant species is different, it can be expected that it will react differently to temperature and time during pressing, test a small sample first. Test the sample material for between 90 and 120 seconds at 200-220°F to determine the optimum temperature and time frame settings for pressing each batch of material. Record your results so you can replicate your desired and preferred results in the future. Optimum Yield and Clarity – Many experienced rosin extractors report getting good results in the 180°F – 220°F temperature range. We have found that the terpene integrity of the material typically degrades significantly at temperatures above 240°F. Our best test results for both yield and clarity were typically in the 200°F – 220°F temperature range.

Note: If you feel more comfortable with your source material, you can experiment by lowering the temperatures. It’s important to increase your press times by 30-60 seconds for every 10°F decrease.

Problems with rosin quality

Knowledgeable rosin consumers recognize clarity as one of the most easily recognizable characteristics that separate high-quality extracts from inferior ones. Just remember that black rosin sagging is often a result of pressing a very old product or using temperatures that are too high.

MyPress solvent-free

We help our customers save materials, money and time by offering the best portable rosin press in the industry. MyPress Solventless allows you to produce high-quality, high-yield rosin at home or even on-site anytime, anywhere you want to process fresh oil.

MyPress Solventless was developed using a technical process focused on the safest and most efficient production of high quality oil. The technology allows for the most careful application of heat, pressure and pressing time, giving users optimal control over the process.

The solvent-free MyPress technology offers the most user-friendly and seemingly effortless method of producing high-quality oils.

Features and Benefits of MyPress

Adjustable plate spacing and temperature control

Count-Up Built-in one second incremental count-up timer

F to C temperature display with a single button

Requires no solvents! (Solvents are NOT healthy.)

Small, light and portable

User-friendly functions and features

Capable of producing industry standard yields

Easy to place in locked position

90 days guarantee

Shipping is restricted to the United States and Canada. (International shipping costs include taxes and duties.)

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We have gone through a lot of trial and error to get the best results when pressing flower rosin. Based on our extensive experimentation, here are the top tips to get the most out of bud pressing! Also check out our video on YouTube for the best tips on pressing flower rosin.

Flower rosin press instructions:

1: Flower quality is king, followed by freshness

2: Relative Humidity for best yields

3: Best temperature for pressing rosin

4: Choose the right Micron bag

5: Best pressure for pressing rosin

1: flower quality is king; Freshness is queen

This sounds like a no-brainer, but often when we speak to customers who are getting average results from flower pressing, it’s almost always because they’re crushing average flowers.

That’s perfectly fine, but if you want great results, you need great stuff. That doesn’t mean you have to buy “platinum” bud from your local pharmacy or fill your entire garden with Gorilla Glue #4, but with rosin your results in the garden are mostly predetermined if your press is up to the mark.

Quality is also closely related to freshness, and you’ll often see your best results by pressing flowers immediately after they’ve dried and cured. The longer you wait, the darker it gets, so be sure to crush the buds when they’re as fresh as possible.

Likewise, we didn’t notice any discernible differences between flower rosin pressed from hydro, terrestrial, coco, etc. grown flowers. The growing medium matters in that the skill of the grower plays the biggest role with any particular substrate.

Some strains and types of cannabis flowers tend to produce better yields than others. Indicas and hybrids anecdotally perform better than delicate sativas. Your hard-hitting, ultra-potent plants will usually produce big yields as resin production is boosted by genetics like The White, Gorilla Glue, Ghost Train Haze, and many more.

When it comes down to it, the biggest determinant of yield, flavor and quality comes down to how well the material was grown and how strong its genetics were in the first place.

2: Relative humidity makes or breaks yields

An important factor that we have identified for the optimal pressing of flower raisins is the moisture content of your buds. When your cannabis flower is dry, it acts like a sponge when the trichomes are liquefied, sucking up much of the rosin before it can escape.

So what is the best humidity level for pressing flower rosin? For best results, we recommend that the relative moisture content of your material be at least 55% to 62%.

You can check your flower’s moisture level by either using an analog hygrometer (like those found in many cigar boxes) or by investing $25 in a Caliber IV digital hygrometer. They work much faster and are much more accurate, making a digital hygrometer worth every penny in your rosin pressing process.

To increase the humidity of your buds you can buy preset humidity packs from Integra or Boveda. Both companies sell packaging that will bring your material to a perfect 55% or 62% moisture content.

Watch our YouTube video of our experiment on how relative humidity affects flower rosin yield. The results were interesting to say the least!

3: Finding the best temperature for pressing flower rosin

The ideal temperature for pressing flower rosin depends on the plant you are working with and your goals. Higher quality material requires less heat for a full extraction. This applies to any source material, be it flower, sieve, or ice water hash.

The opposite is true for older, denser buds, sieve or hash, and lower quality material in general. This is because extra heat is required to break up the trichome heads, which, if they aren’t all already broken or damaged, are likely dried out or simply oxidized.

When you apply heat and pressure to your buds, the speed and consistency with which the trichomes liquify is highly dependent on the temperature used, as well as the evenness of that heat distribution. In general, there are two accepted temperature ranges for pressing rosin:

Cold Press: 160°F – 190°F, pressed between 1 and 5 minutes or longer, often producing a bud or dough consistency. Rich terpene preservation, but sometimes with a sacrifice in yield.

Hot Press: 190°F – 220°F, pressed between 45 seconds and 3 minutes, often producing a very oily or splinter-like consistency. High terpene retention when pressed at 220°F or below, often accompanied by an increase in yield over cold pressing.

We’ve found greatest success in the 210°F – 220°F range, which offers a great compromise between quality and yield. If terpene conservation and quality is your primary goal, start colder and evaluate your results. We observed very little terpene loss in this range.

There can be a noticeable loss of flavor and terpenes at temperatures above 235°F, but we have customers who swear by pressing at up to 250°F.

The key is to experiment for yourself. Think of rosin pressing like cooking — different types of food require different temperatures to develop their full flavor.

The boiling point of terpenes varies widely and many are well above 350°F. You shouldn’t approach this as significant terpene degradation can occur well below boiling point, but the point is that not all strains need to be pressed at the minimum temperature.

Play with different heat settings on your rosin press with small samples to find what works best for you. Temperature fluctuations can alter, and in some cases even destroy, terpenes. In other cases, they can lead to improved yield results, so like any craftsman, you need to know exactly what you’re working with, which can take time.

4: Use the correct Micron bag

When pressing flower rosin using a filter bag, it is important to obtain the correct micron size screen to achieve an excellent yield to quality ratio. You can bag-press flower rosin if you prefer, but there is a risk of small bits of plant material getting into your rosin at the other end. Our premium food grade nylon mesh filter bags are designed to maximize yield and reduce blowouts.

Our rule of thumb is never to press flower rosin less than 90 microns wide. You’re compromising yield with no noticeable gains in quality if you use anything below that.

On the other hand, anything over 150 microns wide will not filter well, so degradations can be realized. The ratio of micron type to material type is important because the higher the micron number, the more porous the mesh filter.

90 micron: best filtration and highest starting quality for flower rosin, some loss of yield

115 micron: overall the best micron filter type for flower rosin, a great sweet spot for yield and quality

Always ensure you are using 100% polyester monofilament filter fabric, which is the most conducive to yields while also being one of the FDA’s top recommended food grade fabrics. Stainless steel screens tend to scratch plates and reduce yield, while screen prints stretch greatly, making it difficult to accurately track your print data.

5: Ideal PSI pressure for pressing rosin

Regardless of which rosin press you use (manual or pneumatic), try to press as gently as possible. While flower rosin requires more pressure than kief and hash rosin to squeeze out all of the juice, the pressure applied by most high-tonnage presses is excessive. Methods from the older days might suggest otherwise, as that’s the practice for getting maximum yields, but if you want top quality rosin, a light touch with your power is the way to go.

While many bottle jack presses can offer over 20 tons of pressure, such an excess will result in unwanted particles being extruded into your rosin. Specifically, she can boost yields with lipids, chlorophyll, and a variety of organic non-cannabinoids. Plant matter coiling up in your oil creates additional problems, such as: B. Reduced clarity and undeveloped flavors.

We have found that the ideal PSI range for pressing flower rosin is between 550 and 1,500 PSI at the platen, with maximum quality at the lower end of this range. We’ve achieved yields in excess of 25% with flower rosin at only 550 PSI when pressing quality bud at the right moisture level in a 115 micron rosin filter bag.

To calculate the pressure and figure out what you’re applying, take the total force exerted by your press and then divide that amount by the total square inch area of ​​your rosin filter bag. Here is an example using our own Pikes Peak rosin press:

Total Pressure Available: 5 tons at 120 PSI compressed air inlet or 10,000 lb/f

Pocket used: 2″ x 6″ or 12 square inches

10,000 / 12 = 833 PSI at the plate

No matter what rosin press you use, try to press as gently as possible. This tip is especially important when working with hash and sifting through rosin, because nobody likes a bloated bag or wasted time.

Keep in mind that this is a very contentious and controversial topic and we don’t want to claim that what we have found is the only way to do it. If you’ve been successful with high pressure, by all means keep going. We simply recommend trying it lower and see what you get as we’ve seen great results without overdoing the pressure application.

Conclusion

Flower rosin, when pressed from quality material, is one of our absolute favorites for dabbing and squishing. The terpene preservation often rivals or surpasses live resin, which is almost always faithfully represented from bud to oil in the rosin pressing process.

If you take anything away from this guide to rosin pressing, then quality matters most. Follow our social media channels for more great articles, videos, posts and tips!

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How to press rosin with a hair straightener

To press rosin with a hair straightener, start by setting up a clean and well-lit work area. You should have space on a flat table top that can take a lot of pressure as you will be using your body weight to press down on the straightener. If starting with dried cannabis flowers, break the buds into small popcorn-sized pieces and place evenly into a 90 micron rosin bag.

Next, fold a piece of rosin parchment paper in half, silicone-coated side in. Place the filled rosin pouch in the parchment paper. Preheat the straightener to about 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the straightener is heated to the correct temperature, place the parchment paper and rosin pouch between the plates and press down slowly and gradually. One side of the straightener should rest on the tabletop and you should apply pressure to the other side. Slowly increase the pressure until you’re pushing with your full torso weight and holding the straightener against the table as hard as you can.

If the iron doesn’t go down to 200 degrees Fahrenheit on its lowest settings, unplug the iron for a minute and let it cool before you begin ironing.

The heat and pressure generated forces the rosin out of the cannabis flower, through the rosin bag filter and onto the surrounding parchment paper. After applying pressure for a few minutes, release the straightener and unfold the parchment paper. Remove the rosin pouch, then scrape the rosin off the paper with a swab or rosin collector.

Thinking about making your own dab rosin but worried it might be too complicated?

Surprise!

It’s not complicated at all!

Worried it might be too expensive?

It’s also not expensive at all!

The biggest cost factor is the input material. And the cost of the press, but that’s a one-time expense.

And as we show below, rosin is so ridiculously profitable that you’ll get back the money you spent on good press in a week.

You can also make your own press. Or just use the old hair straightener method.

We only cover making rosin with a real rosin press because that’s how you make money. Using a hair straightener works, but the yields are far too small to make any real profit.

Still, we get a lot of questions about making rosin with a hair straightener. That’s why we’ve created a step-by-step guide to walk you through the entire process, which we’re currently making available for free. Simply enter your email address below and we will be happy to send you a copy.

As mentioned earlier, to actually make money from rosin production, you need a real press. For any of them, just follow the process below.

Before we get to that, let’s briefly talk about what rosin is and explore how profitable it can be to make your own. The numbers surprised even us when we first saw them.

What is rosin?

Rosin is a marijuana concentrate made without the use of solvents. It has the same potential potency as other concentrates but none of the impurities. It is also referred to as solvent-free hash oil (SHO for short, an acronym we’ll be using a lot in this article). This article explains in more detail what rosin is and why it is so popular.

Why make your own rosin?

A word. Benefit.

Actually two words. Huge wins.

With a huge increase in competition for cannabis flower, prices have fallen and so have profits. But when it comes to concentrates, there’s far less competition and a rapidly growing demand. This means huge potential gains.

Here’s an example of what you can make, adapted from our friends at Triminator.

Profit potential of mining SHO

Profit = Income – Expenses, so let’s calculate our daily expenses first. Here is what we need to spend per day:

Flower: by far the largest issue; Let’s say we bale 2 pounds a day (not a huge amount considering a press like the Nugsmasher XP can handle 3.75 pounds a day with one operator) and estimate it’s going to cost us $1000 a pound , so a total of 2000 dollars

by far the largest edition; Let’s say we’re pressing 2 pounds a day (not a huge amount considering a press like the Nugsmasher XP can handle 3.75 pounds a day with one operator) and estimate it’s costing us $1000 a pound will cost, so a total of $2000 Filter bags and parchment paper: This is about $2 per bag and $0.50 for the paper; Let’s estimate around $10 per hour or $80 per 8 hour day

that’s about $2 per bag and $0.50 for the paper; Let’s estimate around $10 per hour or $80 per 8 hour day. Work: This example is for a worker; Let’s say we pay this worker $20 an hour, or $160 per 8-hour day

So the total cost for one day of production is: $2000 + $80 + $160 = $2240 of expenses.

To calculate daily earnings, let’s assume we’re using a good quality flower with 22% THC (a fair assumption given the $1000/lb price). This would give us a yield of around 19%, which is equivalent to 180 grams of rosin.

At a price of $20 per gram, we would make $3600 in sales.

So our profit per day is $3600 – $2240 = $1360.

Of course, this is all based on a lot of assumptions and both costs and revenue can vary quite a bit, but the point was simply to illustrate that SHO production can be extremely profitable.

If you process hash or kief, you can also make a lot more. Start with much cheaper trim and turn it into kief or hash before making rosin from it. This will give you a much higher yield per dollar spent and practically double your profits!

This adds a few extra steps, but the extra gains are worth the effort. Still, even with just the basic process outlined below, you can get back the money you spent on a printing press in just a few days.

The main thing holding you back would be the lack of a reliable buyer. But if you have someone who can buy you large amounts, you’ve come to the right place.

After seeing these numbers, it makes perfect sense as to why rosin presses are selling so well. Now let’s see how easy it is to actually do the pressing.

How to extract rosin

First, we’ll list all the equipment you’ll need, then walk through the entire SHO extraction process step-by-step.

Equipment needed to make solvent-free hash oil

Organic raw material

The material you make your SHO from has a big impact on the quality. In general, higher quality input material leads to higher quality output. In addition, some varieties simply produce more and better rosin than others.

When it comes to the type of material, you can use cannabis flower, hash, kief/strainer, shake or trim. Flower gives you the best quality but lower yields. Hash gives you the best combination of yield and quality.

As mentioned above, quality and strain make a big difference, which is why you see a wide range of potential yields for each type of material.

Pruning: 3% to 8% yield; 30% quality

3% to 8% yield; 30% quality shake: 8% to 15% yield; 30% quality

8% to 15% yield; Flowering: 15% to 30% yield; 100% quality

15% to Kief/Sift: 30% to 60%+ yield; 75% quality

Hashish: 30% to 70%+ yield; 80% quality

When using buds, try to use smaller buds as they have a larger surface area relative to their total mass. More surface area and less bulk in the center means the rosin doesn’t have to travel as far to get out and there’s less chance of it getting stuck inside.

The relative humidity also plays a crucial role when pressing flowers. If the buds are too dry, they will soak up much of the extract like a sponge. The ideal range is 55% to 62% relative humidity.

If you are unsure about humidity, these humidity packs from Boveda* ensure that your material is always at the ideal relative humidity.

rosin press

You need to apply pressure and temperature to your material and nothing does this better than a rosin press. If you’re not sure which to buy, we have an article that discusses and compares the best presses of each type, and another article that looks specifically at smaller budget rosin presses.

Of course, you can also use a hair straightener, as I’m sure you’ve heard. It works, but is far from ideal. Not only will quality and yield be much lower, it is easy to burn yourself.

Still, I think almost everyone has used a hair straightener when trying to make solvent-free hash oil for the first time. As mentioned, we have a guide for this method as well.

Finally, you can make your own rosin press by purchasing a set of heated plates and a standard shop press. Our article on DIY rosin presses tells you what you need and how to assemble it.

Rosin filter bags

If you’re pressing flowers you don’t need to use a filter bag, but I would still recommend one. For all other types of material, you should definitely use one.

Rosin filter bags are available in a variety of sizes and micron counts. The sizes are self-explanatory and you generally want to use a size that matches the size of the heating plates you are using.

It’s best to just use the filter bags from the same manufacturer as your rosin press. This way you can guarantee that they are perfectly compatible. Here are all the filter bags that we carry.

The micron rating refers to the size of the microscopic openings that allow the rosin to pass but filter out the plant matter. A smaller micron number means a smaller orifice, resulting in purer, higher quality rosin. Of course, this also means lower yields.

Which micron number to choose is a matter of personal preference. You need to find the balance between yield and quality that you are comfortable with. In general, use a smaller micron number for finer material and a larger one for larger material:

Hashish: 25 to 90 microns

25 to 90 microns Dry Sift/Kief: 36 to 90 microns

36 to 90 microns Flower: 90 to 120 microns (or no bag)

90 to 120 microns (or no bag) Trimming/Leafing/Shaking: 115 to 220 microns

Here you can find much more information about micron sizes for bags.

parchment paper

The parchment paper is used to collect the SHO. You can find parchment paper at most grocery stores. Just make sure to buy unbleached paper. You can also get it on Amazon. It’s a good brand.*

If you want to make sure you’re getting high-quality, FDA-approved food-grade paper, we sell paper from PurePressure and from Rosin Tech Products, which you can find on this page.

Additional optional equipment

Scraping Tool: Use this to scrape the SHO off the parchment paper. Some people just use a knife, screwdriver, or other tool they already have, but it’s much faster and easier to use the tool provided for the job. They’re not overly expensive either. Here’s a good one.

Use this to scrape the SHO off the parchment paper. Some people just use a knife, screwdriver, or other tool they already have, but it’s much faster and easier to use the tool provided for the job. They’re not overly expensive either. Here’s a good one. Pre-Press Mold: Use this to ensure your material is evenly packed into the filter bag and distributed down to the seams for easier pressing and avoiding blowouts. Here are the forms we carry.

The step-by-step process of making rosin

Now we come to the actual SHO production. As you will soon see, the process is actually quite simple. The only real difficulty (if you can even call it that) is finding the perfect temperature, pressing time, and pressure for your particular strain.

It’s going to take some trial and error, but even if you don’t have the ideal settings, the results will generally still be pretty good.

Step 1: Fill your filter bag

Fill your filter bag with material. Make sure you don’t overfill it. You need to leave some space in the bag to prevent it from blowing out while squeezing.

Of course, if you’re pressing flowers and not using a bag, ignore this step.

Step 2: Pre-Press Material (Optional)

If you don’t have a pre-press mold, don’t worry about this step. If you have one, place your bag in the mold and apply pressure.

Pre-pressing your material ensures it is more evenly packed and spread at the seams, making oil extraction easier. It also helps prevent bag blowouts, especially with kief, dry sift, hash, and bubble hash.

Step 3: Set pressing time and temperature

This part is a bit tricky as each variety is different and they all respond differently to the same pressing times and temperatures. For this reason, it’s best to start with small amounts until you’ve dialed in the ideal time and temperature for your particular strain.

For starters, we recommend the following times and temperatures, and then adjusting from there:

Hash: 175°F for 60 seconds

175°F for 60 seconds Dry Sift/Kief: 190°F for 60 seconds

190°F for 60 seconds Flower: 215°F for 35 seconds

215°F for 35 seconds Trim/Blade/Shake: 225°F for 35 seconds

This article has a lot more about temperature and pressing time as well as pressure and humidity.

Step 4: Press Your Material

Take a piece of parchment paper (you may need to trim it if you’re not using the same brand as the press) and fold it in half. Place your filter bag with the material between the two halves of the parchment paper and place everything on the lower press plate. Make sure the material is in the center of the plate.

Engage the press. When it’s done, remove the material from the parchment paper. You can go ahead and press a second and even a third time. Yield and quality drop with each subsequent pressing, but generally you still get a good chunk of extract, so it’s usually worth it.

A note on pressure.

Many press manufacturers tout the massive prints their presses deliver, but the truth is that this is usually an exaggeration. The ideal pressure for different input materials is:

Hash: 300 to 700 psi

300 to 700psi Kief: 400 to 800psi

400 to 800psi Flower: 600 to 1000psi

The graphic below illustrates this. You can see that you get an increase in yield beyond these pressure levels, but it’s a slight increase. And with that higher pressure, it also increases the likelihood that fats, lipids and chlorophyll will be pushed into your rosin, which could compromise quality.

If your press allows you to control the pressure delivered, you should consider keeping pressure levels within the ideal ranges given above.

To calculate the psi (pounds per square inch) of your press from the pressure reported in tons, perform the following calculation:

Convert the pressure to pounds (1 ton = 2000 lbs): a 10 ton press weighs 20,000 lbs. Calculate the size of the bag in square inches (not the panels): A 2 x 6 bag is actually 1.8 x 6 if you include the seems, so it’s 1.8 x 6 = 10.8 square inches Divide the Pressure in pounds divided by the size of the bag: 20,000 lbs / 10.8 square inches = 1852 psi

As you can see, with this bag size, a 10 ton press delivers far more pressure than is actually ideal. 5 tons of pressure would be sufficient for any type of material with the same bag size (5 tons is 10,000 lbs / 10.8 = 926 psi).

As with anything, this depends on so many factors including the stress and quality of the input material, the relative humidity (ideally 55% to 62%) and your personal preferences.

That’s why it’s important to start with small batches and adjust the temperature, time and pressure until you find the right combination for that strain and your taste. Then ramp up production.

Step 5: Collect the extract

Collecting the SHO is much easier when it’s cool. You can simply put all the parchment paper in the fridge to cool down. Alternatively, you can hold an ice pack underneath.

Once cool, use a titanium dabber tool to scrape the extract off the paper. On the dabber it rolls off the paper like a snowball.

You could of course improvise and use any number of tools or paraphernalia you already have around the house, such as B. a slotted screwdriver. However, using the right tool for the task at hand makes it faster and easier.

If you’re getting an extract that’s too dark or green or otherwise not quite right, check out this article.

Step 6: Store rosin and use leftovers

The best way to store your solvent-free hash oil depends on how long you intend to store it.

For short-term storage, it’s best to wrap the extract in parchment paper and then place it in a small silicone container (food-safe, of course) that has as little airspace as possible. Keep this in a dark and cool place (slightly below room temperature).

For longer storage, it’s best to wrap it in parchment paper and then place it in a vacuum-sealed jar or stainless steel container. Some people put it in a sealable plastic bag first, and then put that in the container. Store the container in a dark, cool place (slightly cooler than room temperature).

The best thing to do with the leftover “puck” of material is to steep it in butter or oil to cook. Some people just throw it away, but why not put some of it to good use.

Disclaimer: Some of the things covered in this guide may be illegal in your location. We do not encourage violations of the law. If any of the above is not legal in your area, then please understand that it is for entertainment purposes only (especially for the entertainment of those who live somewhere with better laws…).

*Commission earned

Extracting rosin is more art than science.

But there is one firm rule.

Nothing affects the quality of your output more than the quality of your input.

If you use low quality flowers, you will end up with low quality rosin no matter what temperature, pressure or pressing time you use.

And if you use high-quality input material, you will also get a high-quality result.

However, the temperature, pressure, and time settings you use when pressing do matter.

But humidity plays a bigger role. After material quality, relative humidity is the second most important factor.

Then it is important to find the right balance between pressing time, pressure and temperature.

This balance will be different for each type and variety of input material. You’ll have to adjust and fine-tune it until you get it just right.

For this reason, I cannot give you the exact value for any of these three factors. But I can give you a good starting point.

I’ll get into that below. I also give you the ideal relative humidity. This factor does not change. You always want to make sure your material’s humidity is in the ideal range.

And what is that range?

Here’s a quick synopsis for those who prefer not to read much else.

Short Answers Best Humidity Between 58% and 62%. Read more below. Best Temperature For kief or hash, the best temperature is between 170° and 190° F. Start at 180° F. For flower, the ideal range is 215° to 230° F. Start at 220° F. Read below more. Best Press Time Start with a press time of around 65 seconds for kief or hash and around 40 seconds for bud. Read more below. Best Pressure The ideal pressure is 300-700psi for hash, 400-800psi for kief, and 600-1000psi for bud. Read more below.

Best humidity for rosin

The relative humidity of your plant material plays a big role in yield. If someone complains of low yields on the first press, it’s almost always due to overly dry bud.

Material that is too dry needs moisture, so it will soak up a lot of rosin before it escapes. This results in much lower returns than you should be getting.

The ideal relative humidity for rosin extraction is 55% to 62%. I would aim for the higher end of the range, which is 58% to 62%.

The easiest way to ensure your material is at the correct humidity level is to store it overnight with a humidity pack like this one from Boveda.* It brings the material to the correct humidity level, ready for pressing the next day.

What is the best temperature for rosin?

The most important factor is to keep the temperature below 230°F. Once you circle that temperature, the terpenes simply vaporize. Above 220°F you also get a more friable consistency.

The ideal range for oil extraction is between 170° and 230° F. When pressing bud you want to keep temperatures on the higher end of the range, and when pressing hash or dry sieve/kief you want to keep them on the lower end of the range.

First, let’s look at hash, or dry sieving (kief).

Best temperature for pressing kief (dry sieve) or hash

The best temperature for pressing kief or hash is between 170° and 190° F. I recommend starting at 180° F for 65 seconds and adjusting from there.

When pressing kief (or hash) you want to keep the temperature lower but increase the pressing time. That way you don’t break down the terpenes by overheating, but you still get good yields due to the longer press time.

How long is kief (dry sieve) or hash pressed?

Start with a press time of 65 seconds at 180°F and adjust from there.

As mentioned earlier, since you are lowering the temperatures for hash and dry sieving, you will want to increase the pressing time.

Best temperature and time for pressing the flower

The ideal range for pressing flowers is between 215° and 230°F. I would start at 220° for about 40 seconds and adjust from there.

If you prefer a rosin with a more doughy consistency, you should press much colder and longer. Use a temperature between 160° and 190° F and press for 1 to 5 minutes. This will maximize terpene preservation, but at the expense of yield.

How much pressure to make rosin

A lot of people who build their own rosin press get 20 ton clamping presses because they think more pressing force is better. That is not completely right.

The important number is psi (pounds per square inch) on the bag. The overall compression force of a press is only one factor affecting the psi at the bag.

Another factor is the bag size (which of course also has to do with the size of the press plates). The ideal plates and bags are long and narrow. A rectangular shape gives you more perimeter (where the rosin can escape from the bag) and less area in the middle (where the rosin can get stuck).

With rectangular bags you achieve a better yield with a smaller pressing area, i. H. the overall size of the bag in square inches (or square centimeters). And because the surface area of ​​the bag is smaller, you need less overall compressive force to deliver the required psi.

We’ll look at an example below to make this clear.

First let’s see what the required psi actually is.

Best PSI for rosin

To see the best psi for rosin extraction, let’s take a look at a graph provided by our friends at PurePressure. It shows the ideal psi ranges for different types of input material.

As you can see, the ideal psi range is between 300 and 1000, requiring more pressure for bud and less for kief or hash.

In particular, the best choices for hash, kief, and flower are:

Ideal PSI for hash: 300 to 700 psi

300 to 700 psi Ideal PSI for Dry Sift/Kief: 400 to 800 psi

400 to 800 psi Ideal PSI for flowers: 600 to 1000 psi

Example of compressive force

Okay, let’s look at an example to calculate how much compressive force we need to deliver the required psi. In this example we are using 1000psi as the target, the highest you will ever need.

PSI is pounds per square inch, so it’s calculated by taking the total press force (in pounds) and dividing it by the total press area (in square inches).

PSI = pressing force / pressing area

Since we already know the PSI, we have:

1000 psi = pressing force / pressing area

We can also find out the press area. Let’s take a 2″ x 6″ bag for our example. The surface area of ​​this bag is 12 square inches. Now we have:

1000 psi = press force / 12 square inches

To calculate the required press force, we multiply both sides of this equation by 12:

12 square inches * 1000 psi = pressing force * 12 square inches / 12 square inches

The two “12 sq in” on the right side of the equation cancel each other out, leaving us:

12,000 pounds = pressing force

12,000 pounds is 6 tons so we would need a press that can deliver 6 tons to deliver the pressure we need.

And remember that we did this calculation assuming that we want the maximum possible required pressure of 1000psi. We rarely need that much when pressing bud, and never that much for hash or kief.

We didn’t even consider the pocket seam. This generally reduces the size of the bag by about half an inch. A smaller bag size reduces the required pressing force even further.

Given all of this, do you ever need a 20 ton press? Or are 12 tons generally sufficient?

12 ton vs. 20 ton rosin press

If you run different bag sizes through the above calculation, you’ll find that you never actually need 20 tons of pressing force. 12 tons are enough for even the largest bags. 15 tons max.

For this reason I would always recommend saving some money and going for a 12 ton baler if you want to bale large volumes. You can see the cost difference between a 12 ton and a 20 ton press in the comparison chart in our NugSmasher rosin press review.

For smaller quantities, you do not need more than 5 tons, and 2 tons are usually sufficient for your own use.

I realize there are many websites telling you to get the most urgent power you can. Extracting rosin is still new, so there isn’t much consensus on how best to do it.

It doesn’t help that each variety needs to be pressed in a slightly different way, at a different temperature at a different pressure for a different length of time than the next variety.

All I can tell you is that the more pressure you put on the material, the more plant material will be squeezed out and incorporated into your extract. It becomes less pure and is often the cause of dark or green rosin. They also increase the risk of a blowout.

Since the yield increase from higher pressure (as seen in the graph above) is minimal and the risk of blowout and plant matter in your extract is higher, there is little point in using a pressure above 1000psi.

For more information on this topic, check out our step-by-step guide for the entire rosin extraction process.

MyPress was designed and developed from the ground up for everyone. Safety and ease of use are at the forefront of our design considerations. We have given great consideration to portability, storage and precise control of time and temperature to ensure an easy and consistent desired result from print to print.

MyPress Solventless is a Colorado company of passionate engineers working to improve people’s lives through safety, design and integrity.

Most rosin presses are machines from other industries that weren’t originally designed to make rosin from your flower, trim, or shake materials. Attempting to get the temperature and pressure right with borrowed technology disguised as a “rosin press” can end up leaving a dark, unappealing mess with poor, inconsistent results.

Manage temperature with MyPress

The MyPress Rosin Press features an easy-to-read LCD display and an easy-to-use button layout. Temperature settings range from 100 to 250 degrees Fahrenheit depending on your current needs.

Benefits of precise temperature control

Temperature control within a precise 10-degree range

A handy plate-activated timer that counts up as the plates close

The counter stops when the panels are open and automatically resets to zero once the panels are closed again

This level of digital control allows you to produce the best quality product based on your source material.

Time and temperature ranges for pressing rosin

Lower temperatures give you oil with a buttery, honey-like consistency that is stable and contains more flavor. Higher temperatures provide a juice-like consistency with less flavor and terpenes, but greater weight yields.

Here’s a general range of times and temperatures to use depending on your source material:

Flower: Stay in a temperature range of 180-220 degrees for a period of 60-180 seconds.

Higher Quality Screens: Stay within a temperature range of 150-190 degrees. Limit your pressing time to 90-300 seconds.

Lower Quality Sift: Increase your temperature range to 180-220 degrees. Keep the pressing time anywhere within 90-300 seconds.

MyPress delivers enough pressure where you should never have to go over 220 degrees.

Get the right pressure

MyPress Plates are made of food-grade stainless steel to withstand repeated pressing and can deliver 1400 psi as the gauge between plates. Pressure adjustments require little more than turning a wrench in 1/4 turn increments to increase or decrease platen spacing.

The most common formula for calculating pressure takes into account the size of your platen surface and the maximum weight your press can handle. MyPress platters deliver 1400 psi measured between the 3″x3″ platters. Efficiently squeeze 1.5g of buds or less for industry standard yields. Because rosin has a shelf life due to oxidation, pressing less material at a time ensures you have the freshest rosin before it degrades.

Designed for safety

We have always had safety in mind when designing this product, which is why the MyPress Gen 2 is equipped with safety features not available on most other presses on the market.

safety devices

Silicone feet to protect against slipping on any surface

Custom adjustment key included to keep hands off plates

Air-insulated body to protect you and your surfaces from heat no matter how long you press

Auto shut off 45 minutes after last use

Electrically grounded panels and frames

Gain more control and improve your performance by using the MyPress for your rosin extraction. Call us at (720) 432-2332 for answers to your questions.

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Fresh is good, right?

Fresh bread, fresh fruit, fresh everything is better.

So it only makes sense that fresh bud will yield fresher and therefore better rosin.

But that’s not quite the way it works.

Rosin extraction requires a very specific moisture level for ideal results.

And fresh buds just contain too much water. The moisture content in fresh flowers is much higher than the ideal range for rosin extraction.

What does that mean?

Can you extract rosin from fresh buds?

Short answer yes you can. Type of. But it’s not pretty and I wouldn’t recommend it. You’ll get much better results if you cure and dry the bud first, or if you turn it into fresh frozen bubble hash and then press. More details below.

Why pressing rosin from fresh bud is a bad idea

To extract rosin from bud, the bud needs to be between 55% and 62% relative humidity. (This article includes a section on how to achieve ideal humidity levels.)

Fresh buds have a much higher moisture content. It contains way too much water. Squeezing fresh bud results in a watery mess that’s nearly impossible to scrape off your parchment paper.

It also smells bad and when you try to dab it sizzles on the nail and has a fresh chlorophyll taste.

How can I get my fresh buds ready for pressing?

The simplest solution is to let it cure and dry just like you would prepare it for smoking. If you don’t want to bother with it, just let it dry until it reaches 55% to 62% relative humidity to drastically improve your pressing results.

Often people who ask about pressing fresh bud actually want live resin. This requires the use of solvents, but it is possible to get the same live resin flavor without the use of solvents.

To do this, you must first freeze your fresh bud, then make bubble hash out of it, and finally press that hash to get solvent-free live rosin.

Here’s how you do it.

How to turn fresh buds into living rosin

First, let’s get one thing straight: “live rosin” is a bit of a misnomer, as the extract you end up with isn’t actually “live”. The hash has to dry before pressing so that the resin glands are no longer alive.

However, freezing immediately (before the buds have a chance to dry) preserves the trichomes just as they would in fresh material.

When you press the resulting dry hash, you end up with an extract that has the same taste and potency of live resin, but is made entirely without solvents. It delivers one of the best highs and terpene profiles of any concentrate.

To make living rosin, follow these steps (details below):

Cut and freeze buds. Wash frozen buds and collect the rosin. drying hash. pressing hashish

You will need the following materials:

Step One: Cut and Freeze Buds

Cut the fresh flower off the plant and remove the fan leaves. Freeze immediately before the buds begin to dry.

Step Two: Wash frozen buds and collect resin

The first thing you want to do is fill the collection bucket with the collection bags. Collection bags come in a variety of micron sizes (micron is a unit used in this case to measure the size of the opening in the mesh).

The larger the micron size, the larger the openings in the mesh, meaning larger material can pass through. A typical kit may have five pouches of the following sizes: 25 micron, 70 micron, 120 micron, 150 micron and 220 micron.

Place the bags in the bucket with the largest micron size facing inside. In other words, the 25 micron bag goes in first, the 70 micron bag goes in that one, the 120 micron bag goes in that one, and so on. Do not place the largest bag (the 220 micron bag in this example) in the bucket.

Once the collection bucket and bags are ready, you can set the whole thing aside and start washing the frozen buds.

First, put some cold, pure water in the washing machine (check ours here). Don’t fill the machine all the way up as you still have to put the frozen buds into their pouch.

Add pure water ice. Let it sit until the water is cold enough. The temperature should be below 4°C (39°F).

Once it’s cold enough, you can add the buds. Put them in the bag you didn’t use before (the 220 micron bag) and add some pure water ice to the bag with the buds. Close the bag and put it in the washing machine.

Wash for one cycle (about 5 minutes should be enough). Then dump the laundry into the collection bags in the bucket. Once all the water has drained from the washing machine into the collection bags, it’s time to remove them and collect your resin.

Take out the inner bag (the largest micron size). Shake it down well to drain the water into the next size bag. After the water has drained, catch the resin with a spoon. I recommend flushing the outside of the bag into the next collection bag to avoid wasting resin.

Repeat this process with each additional bag. As the micron size decreases, the resin becomes finer. The more bags you use, the more different grades of resin you get.

After you’ve harvested all of the resin, I suggest washing the bag containing the flower one more time. This way you will collect more resin. Use a longer cycle for this second wash. 10 minutes is good.

The quality degrades with each successive wash, but it’s definitely worth doing at least two passes. I would keep going until you are no longer getting any significant yield.

Step three: dry the resin

Now you need to dry the collected resin. This works best in a freeze dryer. It’s faster (around 24 hours) and preserves the peak profile of trichomes and terpenes. If you don’t have a freeze dryer, dry the hash in a cool, dark place. I recommend a fridge.

Step 4: Press the diamond

The final step is to press the hash with a rosin press. If you don’t have one, this post will help you find the best press for you. If you only bale small batches for personal use, you can save a lot of money by getting one of these compact balers. For home use, the NugSmasher presses reviewed here generally offer the best value for money.

View our range of rosin presses here and our ice extraction washers here

Follow the instructions in this post to press the hash into rosin.

And that’s it! You have now turned your fresh buds into live rosin and are ready to enjoy ultimate flavor and potency

If you’re unfamiliar with the rosin-making process, get ready for a cannabis DIY experience that could change your consuming life forever. Rosin is a concentrate made by subjecting cannabis to heat and pressure to force out the terpenes and cannabinoids found in the plant’s trichome glands. It’s easy to make rosin from flower, dry screen (kief), or sub-par hash with just a few tools you probably have around the house.

Rosin is a concentrate made by subjecting cannabis to heat and pressure to force out the terpenes and cannabinoids found in the plant’s trichome glands. Photo by: Gina Coleman/Weedmaps

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While cannabis concentrates made without chemical solvents have been around for centuries, in the 1970s some enterprising cannabis connoisseurs discovered how to use butane to separate cannabinoids and terpenes from cannabis. When done correctly, this process can produce significantly larger volumes simply because more material can be processed at once. Improper use of DIY systems and homemade devices can result in explosions, residual solvents in the end product and even death. Consumers who don’t want to risk it or consume residual chemicals in their concentrates prefer rosin as it is solvent-free by definition.

Other industries have used this simple extraction technique for thousands of years. Imagine you are squeezing the oil from an olive or the juice from a grape. The rosin process literally squeezes the starting material until it exudes a gooey, cannabinoid- and terpene-rich goo. It can even turn hash that just won’t melt into a dabbable product.

Rosin technology has been around for decades, but it didn’t really catch on until Phil “Soilgrown” Salazar started sharing photos of his rosin experiments on social media and discussing his techniques with the cannabis community. Although Salazar didn’t invent the process, he played a big part in creating the hype that has led many solvent-free enthusiasts to experiment for themselves.

Supplies for making rosin

Before you make your first batch of rosin, you’ll need a few things.

hair straightener

parchment paper (not wax paper)

Cannabis (flower, kief or hash)

Dabber or other tool for collecting the finished rosin

Container for the finished rosin (if you’re making more than one or two swabs at a time)

rosin pouch (optional)

Heat resistant gloves (optional but recommended)

A hair straightener with 2-inch plates and adjustable temperature controls works best, but the process still works with a flat iron on low, medium, and high settings. It may just take a little more trial and error.

Temperature plays a large role in determining the quality and overall yield of your rosin manufacture. And the ideal temperature depends heavily on the chemical composition of the cannabis used. If your buds, drying sieves, or hash are high in terpenes, a lower temperature will be needed. This is because the terpenes squeezed out of the trichome glands during the initial pressing act as a natural solvent to facilitate the process. For strains with fewer terpenes to play this role, you’ll need more pressure and heat to coax the cannabinoids out.

You can make rosin by pressing a hardened nug, dry sieve, or hash directly between two pieces of parchment paper and heating with a hair straightener. Photo by: Gina Coleman/Weedmaps

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Nugs can be pressed directly into parchment paper, but kief or hash should be placed in a rosin strainer or mesh bag first. Although these screens and bags are typically used by more experienced rosin makers, they filter out botanical particles that can get into your finished product. The smaller the screen size, the more particles will be retained, but it will also restrict the flow of your rosin and potentially reduce your overall yield.

Choosing the right screen size is a delicate balancing act. Finer mesh screens (25-45 microns) are ideal for any type of dry screen or hash. Larger mesh screens (70-120 microns) can be used for either lightly ground bud or trim.

We recommend using heat resistant gloves to avoid burning your fingertips. Some hair straighteners come with a pair or are easily available online or at a cosmetics store. When using the straightener, you need to apply pressure by squeezing the tip of the straightener with your hands. Do this at your own risk and with caution.

It’s important not to overfill strainers, bags, or even parchment paper with loose bud — or apply too much pressure or heat. An overly full rosin bag or strainer can burst or overflow, and overflowing buds can affect the efficiency of the process. Bud that remains in the parchment but outside the surface of the iron can suck in the rosin pressed from the other part of the bud. For best results, start with low pressure and increase slowly, and don’t overload your pocket or iron.

Steps to make rosin

Time needed: 30 minutes. Gather your hair straightener ingredients

parchment paper (not wax paper)

Cannabis (flower, kief or hash)

Dabber or other tool for collecting the finished rosin

Container for the finished rosin (if you’re making more than one or two swabs at a time)

rosin pouch (optional)

Heat-resistant gloves (optional but recommended) Gently flatten the bud a bit with your hands. There is no need to grind your bud, just gently flatten it a bit with your hands to make it easier to press. Make sure the nub you choose fits into the parchment and the flat surface of the straightener. Be sure to use bud that is properly cured and not too wet or too dry.

Put the bud in the rosin bag If you’re using a rosin bag, put the plant matter inside. We recommend nylon food strainers or a mesh bag. (This step is optional for flower, but necessary for hash or dry sieving.)

Set the temperature of the straightener or press. Set the temperature on your flat iron or press. Start with low temperatures and work your way up. High temperatures are fast, but can scorch your material and result in dark, liquid rosin.

Place your flower between parchment paper Place your bag or loose flower between two pieces of parchment paper. Only use as much material as will fit under the heating element. Leave a few inches of parchment paper on all sides to catch the rosin. You don’t want it spilling over onto the plates.

Push until you hear a hiss. Using the preheated flat iron, press the parchment paper for four to 30 seconds. The time you need to press depends on the quality of your flower, but release when you hear a hiss. Pressing hard while the iron is lying flat like a stapler generally produces better results. This may take a few tries to get the hang of.

Check the Oil After removing the flower from the parchment paper, check the amount of oil.

Repeat this until there is no more rosin. You can reposition the nut in a clean spot on the paper or use fresh paper to press again. Repeat until no more rosin comes out.

Use a Dabber to Catch the Rosin When you are finished pressing your product, use a dabber to catch the rosin.

Save the rosin packet or save the rosin for later use (between parchment paper is fine if you intend to use it soon). You can also turn it into rosin toffee by stretching, pulling, and twisting with the dabber until it has a toffee-like consistency.

What is a “good” yield?

The goal of rosin pressing is to remove all cannabinoids and terpenes from the trichome glands. In theory, if your cannabis contains 18% cannabinoids and 2% terpenes, the yield you would get from pressing 1 gram of flower would be 0.2 grams of rosin. Of course, many factors contribute to the overall performance as well as the quality of your rosin.

If you feel like you didn’t get everything out on your first run, you can always grab new parchment paper and press the cannabis again. Increasing the temperature or pressure on your second pass will ensure you get every last bit of oil out of your product.

Remember that when you press bud to make rosin, you are squeezing the plant material. This plant material can get into your end product, but that doesn’t mean your product is bad. Practice makes perfect, and the more you slow down your setup and filtering processes, the higher quality rosin you can produce.

How do the professionals press rosin?

Professional rosin makers and DIYers can choose to purchase press kits that include hydraulic presses, heat controls, and more to process larger volumes of rosin and have better control over all parameters involved. Rosin press prices range from $120 to over $4,000, with a range of accessories to customize your setup.

Professional rosin makers and DIYers can choose to purchase press kits that include hydraulic presses, heat controls, and more. Photo by: Gina Coleman/Weedmaps

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Whether you’re interested in pressing rosin with a hair straightener or investing in a high-tech setup, rosin pressing is a tinkerer’s playground, with a variety of temperature and pressure options to achieve the intoxicating results, you are looking for .

Learning how to make shatter is a great way to take your cannabis experience to the next level and breathe new life into your smoking pleasure.

In this article, the all-things cannabis experts at Honest Marijuana have created the ultimate tutorial for learning how to make shatter safely and easily, no matter what tools you have at hand.

How to make shatter at home

1) How to make shatter with Bud

For this simple tutorial on how to make shatter, all you really need is some dried and cured bud from your local pharmacy and a few household — or readily available — items.

deliveries

Your favorite ganja strain

Hair straighteners (preferably one with a digital temperature display)

parchment paper

Towel or pot holder (puns are fun!)

Razor blade or dabbing tool

instructions

Separate out about 2 grams of ganja. Break this bud into four pieces (about half a gram each). Heat the iron between 300℉ and 330℉. Too hot and you’ll burn off a lot of the chemicals you’re trying to extract. Too cool and you won’t get enough of the chemicals you’re trying to extract. Tear off a piece of parchment paper about 12 cm long. Fold the parchment paper in half (so you have two 6 inch sections). Place ½ gram of flowers between the parchment paper. Fold over the open edges to be on the safe side. When the flat iron is hot enough, place the parchment paper between the blades. Squeeze the flat iron firmly for three seconds (make sure to put a potholder or towel between your hand and the hot iron to avoid burning yourself). Remove the parchment paper. Unfold the paper. You will see a brownish spot surrounding the bud. That’s liquid shatter (aka rosin)! Move the bud to another location and press again for 3 seconds. Move the bud again (if there is space) and press for another 3 seconds. Set the straightener aside and wait a minute for the splinter to cool completely. Unfold the parchment paper and collect the splinters with the razor blade or dabbing tool (Be careful! It’s fragile.).

We love this method because there are no complicated chemistry, no dangerous solvents, and no long hours on the stovetop.

Just an easy way to make shatter with stuff you probably already have around your house.

2) How to make shatter with kief

Bet you didn’t know you could learn how to make shatter with nothing more than some leftover kief and an iron (yes, the thing you use to get the wrinkles out of your clothes)?

If you’re unfamiliar with kief, it’s the bulbous formation at the top of the trichome — the potted plant’s resin glands that contain THC, CBD, CBG, CBN, and other active cannabinoids — and here’s all the action.

If you’re not familiar with an iron, well… we can’t help you there.

The best and easiest way to get your own kief is with a grinder. More specifically, you need a grinder with four or three chambers.

We’re not suggesting sitting down with a new grinder and grinding up oodles of cannabis to try and harvest a bunch of kief. That’s a waste of time.

You’re better off just going about your normal ganja activities, but this time grind up the buds you use for joints, blunts, spliffs, and so on.

Over time you will accumulate enough kief to take it to the next level and learn how to make your own shatter.

Here’s how to do it.

deliveries

Kief

iron

parchment paper (NOT wax paper)

towel or t-shirt

instructions

Turn the iron on to the lowest setting (no steam). Pour the kief onto the top half of the parchment paper in a mound. Spread out the pile of kief until you have a layer that is about half an inch thick. Fold the bottom half of the parchment paper over the top half so it covers the kief. You can even fold the parchment multiple times to create a small package. Place the parchment paper on an iron-ready surface (something that won’t melt or burn like an ironing board). Lay the towel or t-shirt over the parchment paper. Apply pressure with the hot iron for three or four seconds (no more or you’ll burn the kief). Remove the iron for another three or four seconds. Repeat this process – three or four seconds on, three or four seconds off – twenty times, turning the parchment paper over every two times. (Ten rounds on, off, on, off, turn) Pull back parchment paper to check your progress. If it needs more heat and pressure, continue with steps eight and nine above. When it looks good, turn off the iron and let the shatter cool before handling.

If you don’t have an iron but have a hair straightener for some reason, you can use that as a heat source instead.

Just make sure (like The Dude) to follow steps eight and nine of the instructions above so you don’t burn your kief and ruin your shatter.

3) How to make shatter with alcohol

As the title of this section suggests, we will be using alcohol to make our shatter.

But we won’t use just any alcohol. We use 99-100% pure isopropyl alcohol!

Before you get excited, it’s important for your health that you understand that isopropyl is A LOT different than the alcohol you’ve stashed in your cupboards—even high-proof stuff like Everclear and absinthe.

Isopropyl alcohol is NOT intended for human consumption, so don’t put it in your mouth, kids. It’s not a gamble, folks. We’re not trying to see if you will.

We warn you that you can get very sick (and worse) if you ingest isopropyl alcohol. Do not do it.

It’s also important for your safety that you understand that isopropyl alcohol is flammable. It’s nowhere near as bad as some other solvents used to create shrapnel (like butane, which explodes on the fly), but you don’t want to handle it near an open flame.

If you only have a gas stove, you may want to stick with the other shatter-making guides in this article.

you have been warned Continue to the instructions.

ingredients

2.5 grams of your favorite ganja

Containers that flow well and are freeze and heat resistant

99-100% isopropyl alcohol

Metal mesh sieve

Unbleached coffee filters

Pan

Hot water

instructions

Break your bud into a quarter of its original size (half or half). Place them in an oven safe container and dry the cannabis at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes. Please note that this is not decarboxylation. Once the cannabis is sufficiently dry, place it in the freezer with the bottle of alcohol for 3-5 hours. Wait (Yes, this is the hardest part of the whole process.) Pour enough cold alcohol over the cannabis to cover it by at least an inch. Swirl the mixture gently for 20 seconds. Separate the bud from the alcohol by pouring it through a mesh strainer. Set the plant matter aside for now (we’ll focus on the alcohol from here). Pour the alcohol into another container through an unbleached coffee filter. Squeeze the coffee filter to get as much alcohol out as possible. Let the alcohol evaporate. You can do this in one of three ways: place a coffee filter over the container and just give it time (more waiting time). You can also use a warm water bath to speed up the process. If you’re really impatient (like us), you can place the water bath on the stove over low-medium heat until you see the liquid begin to evaporate. Be careful not to boil the alcohol. When all the alcohol is gone, allow the leftovers to cool and scrape the splinter out of the container. Store in a glass container or on parchment paper.

You can also wash the original buds a second time (this time for a minute) to preserve every single drop of remaining good stuff. Then continue with steps 7 to 12 as described above.

That’s all there is to it!

How to Make Shatter: Quality and purity are key

One of the many nice things about learning how to make shatter at home is that you can use any variety you like.

You can use a high THC strain. You can use a high CBD strain. You can even use a landrace strain.

It doesn’t matter to your shatter. What matters is the quality and purity of the strain you choose. These are keys.

For quality reasons, we always recommend headies and beasters over mids and regs.

And for purity, we always, always, always recommend an all-natural, organic strain like the ones we grow at our Rocky Mountain-based breeding facility.

There we use world-class organic farming practices to offer you – and all cannabis connoisseurs – the purest marijuana experience on earth.

We grow our plants the way Mother Nature intended: in organic soil without chemicals or pesticides. We even hand cut our plants so they are organic from the ground up.

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Visit HonestMarijuana.com today for more information on cannabis and to try our 100 percent natural marijuana products.

I think you will agree when I say that the universe of cannabis concentrates seems to be expanding all the time.

It all started with hash, a specific cannabis product believed to be one of the first commercial extracts in history. Her place of origin is an area where indica strains first emerged, the Hindu Kush region on the Afghan-Pakistani border.

The traditional way of making hash looks something like this:

A person rubs flowers with their hands until copious resin sticks to their fingers. Then he scrapes it off, forming a gummy material that’s perfectly smokable and contains over 30% THC.

After industrialization, we were able to introduce modern extraction methods into the blend.

There are dozens of different cannabis extracts on the market today: budder, wax, BHO, kief, oil and of course rosin.

Even though all of these products are made differently, the philosophy is still the same:

Extract the trichomes from female flowers.

Today we’re going to examine one of the few extracts that you can make in the comfort of your own home and without any solvents – rosin.

What is rosin?

Rosin is a name for a solid cannabis concentrate made using only heat and pressure without the use of solvents.

It has recently gained a lot of popularity among medicinal and recreational users as it is very easy to make at home.

The only things you need to make it are a heat source, grass, and some parchment paper.

However, this technique produces smaller amounts of concentrate. So if you’re looking for more sustainable ways to make concentrate in larger batches, you’re better off with Rick Simpson Oil.

Here’s what you need to make rosin at home:

Cannabis flowers (the more weed you have, the bigger the yield in the end)

2 inch hair straightener (for melting resinous material from the buds)

parchment paper (resistant to grease and moisture)

Oven mitt (for pressing the hair straightener)

Dab tool (aka dab stick)

Continue to instructions:

Set the straightener to 450ºF (this is the best temperature for Rosin Tech) and set it on a flat surface. Fold a piece of parchment paper and place a bud in the middle. Place the parchment with the bud in the straightener and press firmly for 2-4 seconds. Use your swab tool to scrape the rosin off the parchment paper. Repeat steps 3-4 to squeeze every bit of resin out of the buds.

How to Calculate Potential Yield Size in Rosin Manufacturing?

In my own experience, the best way to calculate potential yield size when making rosin is to divide the weight of bud you have by 5.

For example:

30g of buds can give you about 6g of rosin.

From 10g of buds you can get about 2g of rosin.

Etc.

The technique above is often used for smaller yields and can produce 0.2–1.0g of concentrate with 3–4 buds. More than enough to get you high if you ask me.

That being said, there are ways to make larger batches using some very expensive rosin presses that can cost upwards of $10,000.

Now all you have to do is grab your dab rig and smoke that rosin you just made.

Let me know if this worked for you in the comments below.