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Table of Contents
Can plaster be mixed by hand?
If you’re wondering how to mix plaster by hand, how to mix plaster for wall repair or how to make plaster for walls, then you’ve come to the right place! With the correct information and technique, mixing plaster can be simple but mixing it to the correct consistency is hugely important for getting the best results.
Can you mix plaster in a bucket?
Cut off the drill and add a small amount of plaster into the bucket, then resume mixing to incorporate the fresh plaster. Continue sifting and mixing until the plaster is roughly the same consistency as peanut butter. A good rule of thumb is to only add about half the amount you originally used on follow-up mixes.
Can I mix plaster with a normal drill?
It comes with a “normal chuck” for the mixing paddles you can buy and also an SDS chuck. But most SDS drills should be capable of mixing plaster if you can find an SDS paddle.
How much water do I mix with plaster?
The mixing ratio is 1 part water to 1.375 parts plaster, which is approximately 73 parts water to 100 parts plaster. The 73/100 ratio is often a good choice for mold making, providing an effective porosity. The ratio of water to plaster is referred to as consistency.
Drill for mixing plaster
The mixing ratio is 1 part water to 1.375 parts plaster, i.e. about 73 parts water to 100 parts plaster. The 73/100 ratio is often a good choice for mold making because it provides effective porosity. The ratio of water to gypsum is called consistency. Calculated amounts of water and gypsum are displayed by weight, making it easy to weigh on a scale. This calculator is designed for use with plasters such as USG® Pottery Plaster Number 1. We do not guarantee that consistency 73 will be suitable for your particular application. You should test one or more batches to ensure you are happy with the consistency of the molds you are making.
Does your studio use a 73/100 consistency? If your studio uses a spreadsheet, verify that 80 cubic inches says 2 pounds 12 ounces of plaster and 2 pounds of water. If this is the case, your studio is using a consistency of 73. If this chart is like most, it’s in increments of 20 cubic inches; Use this calculator to calculate how much water and plaster of paris you need to mix based on the exact cubic inches needed (e.g. 30, 95, 205 cubic inches).
Note: In general, it’s preferable to have a little more plaster than too little (i.e., round up to 10 or 20 cubic inches), even if it ultimately isn’t needed. Mixing a second batch to make up for a defect usually leads to adhesion and strength issues in the joint area as each batch undergoes its chemical reaction at different times.
Calculation of the required plaster volume
Before using this calculator you need to know how much volume you will need for the plaster mold you are making. PhotoPottery’s Plaster Volume Calculator calculates the volume of liquid plaster needed to make a one-piece mold or a section in a multi-piece mold.
Calculation of the cost of making plaster molds
How much does it cost to make a plaster mold or other decorative plaster products? Find out easily with the Plaster Mold Cost Calculator: simply input how much plaster you are using and the bulk/piece cost and calculate the cost of your drape/bagging or mould.
Tip: Once you have calculated your plaster needs using this calculator, a link will appear below the results for plaster mold costs. Click on this link to go to the Plaster Molds Cost Calculator which will automatically fill in the calculated plaster weight.
What happens if you put too much water in plaster?
If too much water is present, the mix will take an extra long time to reach the creamy stage and then, all of a sudden, it will set overly fast. The piece will still have good homogeneity, but the set plaster will be softer than it would have been had the desired ratio been used.
Drill for mixing plaster
A basic characteristic of any gypsum plaster is its “normal consistency” or the amount of water required to mix a given quantity of gypsum to a liquid state. Both the gypsum and water are measured by weight and the amounts required are expressed as a numerical ratio. For example, a mixture of 1 kg of water and 1.5 kg of gypsum can be expressed as 2 parts water to 3 parts gypsum, or a 2:3 ratio. Usually the equation is expressed in terms of 100 parts plaster of paris. The 2:3 ratio would then become 67:100. When 100 parts of gypsum are added to 67 parts of water, the mixture has a special consistency that is expressed by the number 67 alone. The number 80 would express the consistency of the mixture when 100 parts plaster of paris are added to 80 parts water.
consistency
Because the number refers to the amount of water used per 100 parts of plaster of paris, the higher the consistency number, the more runny the mix. If less water is used and the mixture is therefore less fluid, the setting time and the plasticity time of the mixture are comparatively short. If more water is used and the density of the mixture is reduced, the setting time will increase.
Consistency affects not only the setting time, but also the hardness and compressive strength of the set render, which in turn are closely related to breaking strength and service life. The higher the consistency number, ie the more water is required, the softer and weaker the finished plaster will be. This is because gypsum solidifies through the formation of closely intertwined gypsum crystals; As more water is added, these crystals are pushed further apart, creating a weaker structure.
A consistency number in the range of 65 to 85 indicates that the set plaster will be of moderate hardness. US Gypsum evaluates the consistency values as follows: 94 to 77, soft to medium; 76 to 59, medium to hard; anything under 58, hard to extra hard. It is therefore extremely important to consider the ultimate use of the plaster mix not only when choosing the type of plaster to use, but also when adjusting the water to plaster ratio for the plaster chosen. Remember that as the amount of water increases, you lose hardness and strength of the set plaster. You must decide whether workability (e.g. carving) or strength (e.g. longer mold life) is more important to your purpose.
water to gypsum ratio
The water-to-gypsum ratio is also important in other ways. When the correct proportions are mixed, the gypsum plaster gradually reaches a creamy state and becomes opaque when viewed on the hand or stirrer. It’s not thin and watery. When it has reached the opaque state it is practically ready for casting. However, one can be fooled if the water-to-gypsum ratio deviates too far. If there is too much plaster, the mixture will appear creamy and opaque in a much shorter time; but when poured, it sits on the surface with water and takes an extra long time to set. This leads to an inhomogeneous piece – the plaster becomes porous at the top and hard at the bottom. If there is too much water, the mixture will take an extra long time to get creamy and then suddenly harden too quickly. The piece will still have good homogeneity, but the set plaster will be softer than it would have been if the desired ratio had been used. In any case, after experience and getting to know the material, you get a “feel” for the plaster; You’ll notice any imbalance in the mix early enough in the mixing process to fix it by adding a dash of one ingredient or another to bring the balance.
It is therefore advisable to mix several small batches (about 1/2 kg) of the plaster you have chosen for your particular work until you get a little feel for the right proportions. Learning to recognize the different stages of setting, when the changes occur, the exact consistency to use, and the right time to pour or shape a particular plaster of paris can best be determined by your own experience with it, as there are many variables in the workshop- and studio technology influence the results.
How thick should plaster mix be?
Add the correct amount of water to the large bucket first, and then slowly add the plaster, stirring with the trowel as you go. 3. Mix the plaster and water using the electric mixer. The finished consistency should be smooth and about the thickness of double cream.
Drill for mixing plaster
Once your room is lined with plasterboard, you’re ready to begin this process – however, it’s time sensitive, so take a moment to familiarize yourself with the process and have all the tools you’ll need at hand.
Important details, including recommended thickness of filler layer and plaster to water ratio, are printed on the plaster packaging.
Toolkit for skimming plasterboard
(Image credit: Matt Gibbs)
plaster
big bucket
Clean water
Electric blender
Stainless steel trowel
Falcon
Hover
Hop-up/portable step
Recognize and stand still
Big brush
How to skim a plasterboard wall
1. Measure your wall (height x width) to calculate how much plaster you need to cover the entire surface. The instructions on the plaster bag will guide you to the correct amount of plaster for the job.
2. Put the right amount of water in the big bucket first, then slowly add the plaster while stirring with the trowel.
3. Mix the plaster and water with the electric mixer. The finished consistency should be smooth and about the thickness of double cream.
(Image credit: Matt Gibs)
4. Transfer the plaster mixture to your place and set it up.
5. Swipe some water over your hawk to wet the surface
6. Use your float to scrape a thin layer of plaster over your falcon as this will make the falcon slightly sticky and can hold your mix better. Once there is a glob of the plaster mix on the falcon it should stick when held upside down – if it doesn’t, the mix may not be thick enough.
(Image credit: Matt Gibbs)
7. With a portion of plaster on your Falcon, start applying the plaster to the wall with your trowel. Hold the float at a 20 degree angle to the wall. If you’re right-handed, start at the top left of the wall and work your way to the right. If you’re left-handed, start at the top left and work your way to the right. You should aim for a thickness of about 1-2mm. The mixed plaster should last about 40 minutes before it begins to harden.
8. Cover entire surface in one go – don’t stop halfway. Make sure you go to the top and bottom edges. At this point, don’t worry too much about lines or small bumps in the plaster – just make sure there aren’t any large lumps or bumps.
9. Upon completion, wait 10-15 minutes and perform a gentle touch test. Your finger should leave a very light mark on the wall, but not a complete fingerprint. If it leaves an imprint, wait a little longer.
(Image credit: Matt Gibbs)
10. Using a clean trowel, go over the plaster fairly firmly to smooth out any lines or imperfections before applying your second coat of plaster.
11. Follow the same steps as before, measure, mix and apply a second coat of plaster to the wall of approximately the same thickness as before.
12. Once the second coat starts to dry (touch test again) you can start ‘closing’ the wall by running your metal trowel over the wall to smooth out any unevenness.
(Image credit: Matt Gibbs)
13. You should repeat this step 3 or 4 times at 10-15 minute intervals to make sure the patch is as smooth as possible.
14. As a final finish, use a clean, dry brush to wipe the plaster from the edges and corners between the wall and ceiling and all adjoining walls.
15. Let it dry and clean your tools for the next job.
Do you wet plasterboard before plastering?
Plaster must be applied when a surface feels tacky, but not too wet, to help it bond to the surface well.
Drill for mixing plaster
If you’re new to plastering, it can be quite a scary concept at first! However, with the right brushing tools, techniques, and the right level of confidence, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t get the results you want right from the start.
Click here to see our cleaning tools and equipment – we stock everything you need!
So read on below and let us know what you think – and as always, reach out to our team if you need further assistance.
Our top tips!
Here are a few pointers to help you along.
1. Plaster doesn’t stick to every surface and you don’t want it to fall off so make sure your surface can be plastered.
2. Make sure it’s clean – remove any plaster, dust or wallpaper residue.
3. Check the suction power of your wall.
4. Highly absorbent porous backgrounds can suck the moisture out of the plaster, meaning it dries too quickly – so you may need to dampen the wall before you start.
5. When wetting your walls, use a fine mist spray gun to avoid having to constantly reach down to re-wet your brush.
6. As soon as the water runs down the wall, you will know that you have controlled the suction power.
7. Low-absorbency backgrounds, such as B. painted surfaces, must also be properly prepared.
8. While plasterboard or backing can be painted over without preparation, existing plaster or previously painted surfaces will need to be treated with an adhesion promoter such as a mixture of PVA glue and water to ensure the plaster will adhere to the wall.
9. You can also try adding a handful of sand to the PVA mix to give it a rougher texture and better adhesion.
10. Clean as you go – it may sound like an exaggeration, but having clean buckets, tools and equipment is important to ensure your plaster doesn’t come off and you get a better finish that lasts.
11. Also, dry plaster is a nightmare to clean off your tools and can result in sanding marks in the plaster surface on your next job!
12. Always use clean water to avoid contaminating your patch and causing it to come off or set too quickly.
13. Always mix gypsum by adding gypsum to the water and not the other way around.
14. First add just enough plaster to form a mound on top of the water and mix until free of lumps, then slowly add the plaster to get the right consistency, using either a wooden stick or a Drilling machine.
15. Plaster and water mix about half and half – so half a (clean) bucket of water should make a full bucket of plaster.
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16. The patch should be the consistency of melted ice cream – try putting a stick inside – if it can stand, the patch is mixed properly.
17. Plaster must be applied when a surface feels tacky but not too wet so that it bonds well to the surface.
18. When plastering a room, don’t try to make two walls touching each other as you risk damaging one wall while plastering the other.
19. Keep the room you’re plastering cool – radiators should be turned off or the plaster will dry out too quickly, making it difficult to apply and causing cracks.
20. Beginners should start on a small area first to ensure they get the technique right.
21. Start with an area that will only take 30 minutes or less for the first coat.
22. Make sure you follow the six steps of plastering correctly and confidently – from the first coat to the final finish.
23. A good brushing result can be achieved with a combination of safe, firm pressure and the right angle of your trowel.
24. Don’t try to get your finish perfect in the first coat – it takes too long and the plaster may dry too quickly – imperfections can be ironed out in later stages.
25. When you first apply your trowel to the ceiling or wall, start with one edge of the trowel angled away from it.
26. As the plaster on your trowel thins out as you move, the angle between your trowel and the surface decreases.
27. Watch out for spills when you lower the angle of your trowel!
28. When making a ceiling, don’t stand directly under your trowel just in case you get cast in your eye!
29. Artex ceilings can simply be plastered with a thicker layer of plaster.
30. Don’t go straight into the edges between the ceiling and the wall with your plaster – it can be worked into the edges afterwards and prevents clumps of plaster from clumping together in the corners.
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31. But when you make your corners, make sure they’re flat – it makes the whole wall look good!
32. Make sure the thickness of the plaster is even on the first and second layers. Apply firm pressure to ensure it is flat and has no bulges.
33. You don’t have to worry too much about smoothness or trowel marks at this stage, just that it’s flat and even.
34. Make sure the first thin coat is damp and smooth when you apply the second coat.
35. At this point, don’t worry about filling every little hole – it’s better to avoid your patch setting too quickly.
36. After the first two coats, the “filling process” begins. This is time to fill in all those holes, remove your trowel marks and smooth it out.
37. Before you start, make sure the patch is sticky – pliable enough to push the patch into the holes, but not so wet that you make new holes.
38. As the plaster sets, it will darken, which means it’s time for the final trowel.
39. Don’t buff the plaster too hard on the last dry trowel stage – it should be even and lightly polished, but feel like an eggshell – the smoother it makes paint and wallpaper a nightmare to stick to.
40. Make sure you have the right cleaning tools, equipment, and know-how before you start so you don’t end up having to stop halfway.
41. Make sure you can easily reach hard-to-reach areas with stilts or scaffolding.
42. Love your trowel – it’s an essential piece of grooming kit. Make sure it’s clean, rust-free and of the right type. Each trowel will complicate the work.
43. For beginners, 11 inches is a good starting size. While a larger blade covers areas faster, it is more difficult to control.
44. Apply your metal trowel – it’s much easier to use this way – some can be bought pre-made.
45. Use tin snips to cut the angle bead to make the job easier.
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46. Don’t sand the plaster — if you follow the six steps correctly, there’s no reason you’d have to sand it again, which creates more mess, imperfections, and more hard work.
47. Remember! Flatten, fill in holes, smooth out traces of spatula
48. Always remember to keep your trowel flat against the wall.
49. Don’t forget to fill any holes in the plaster by applying firm pressure or adding more plaster to the hole and smoothing it out.
50. When the plaster is then fairly firm it will successfully smooth out any trowel marks and burrs – provided you have kept it flat so your trowel can sit flat on the wall.
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Can you mix plaster in a cement mixer?
Plaster can be mixed using a forced action mixer. It can be created from clay, lime, gypsum and Portland cement. Using a forced action mixer produces a consistent mix every time.
Drill for mixing plaster
The versatility of pan mixers means these machines can mix resin bonded gravel, mortar, render, plaster, screed and lime putty.
Contractors in the UK rely on pan mixers. With resin bonded gravel it is imperative that the aggregate and resin be combined to ensure the resin is held in place before it hardens.
How does it work for the wide range of applications it is used for? This blog post explains.
Can I use drill as paddle mixer?
Paddle Mixers Information
Paddle mixers are designed for use with paint, plaster or mortar and some mixers can only be operated manually but the majority are designed to be used with a drill, whether a purpose built mixing drill or the standard type.
Drill for mixing plaster
Paddle mixers are designed for use with paint, plaster, or grout, and some mixers can only be operated manually, but most are designed for use with a power drill, whether it’s a specialty machine or the standard type. Most specialty equipment will require a paddle mixer with an M14 threaded shank to connect to the machine, while standard drills with drill chucks can be used for anything as long as it’s within the capacity of the drill chuck. Note that most cordless drills on the market struggle with mixed applications and a fairly powerful corded is usually recommended, although recent innovations such as the DeWalt Flexvolt 54V cordless drill have shown that there are exceptions to this rule there. Paddle mixers or mixers are also sometimes referred to as mixer drills or stirrers.
Can I use my drill as a mixer?
A standard drill can certainly be adequate for mixing small volumes of low viscosity liquid materials at a low rpm, for example mixing paint needs little effort compared to mixing concrete and you would do fine buying mixer attachments for a standard drill.
Drill for mixing plaster
The fatigue that comes with mixing concrete by hand will soon make you look for a concrete mixing tool. If you have a good drill with a good mixer attachment, your mixture will stir with ease.
The exact power of a drill you need to control your cement mixer depends on many features. Before going into detail, we need to understand the definition of a drill mixer.
What is a drill press?
A mixer drill is a type of drill with paddle attachments or blades that help mix concrete. The shape of the paddle or blades depends on the components that make up your concrete. A drill press design ensures the best mix of your content. The performance and speed of a drill mixer depend on various properties. The article addresses these important factors in determining a drill with sufficient power to mix concrete.
Dedicated mixed drills are not the standard drills with 10mm or 13mm chucks that drill holes and drive screws. However, if you have a cordless drill from the same manufacturer, you might be able to just buy a “skin” of a mixed drill and reuse the same battery pack.
Should You Get a Special Mixed Drill? / What service do you need?
Many craftsmen still struggle with a standard drill instead of a special hand mixer for complex mixing work.
A standard electric drill can certainly be sufficient for mixing small amounts of low viscosity liquid materials at low speeds, for example mixing paint requires little effort compared to mixing concrete and you would do well to purchase mixing attachments for a standard electric drill to buy.
Concrete is another matter.
When high viscosity materials or large mixing volumes need to be mixed, a regular power drill should not be your first choice. Since a standard drill press is designed to drill in short bursts and not shuffle for long periods of time, they tend to overheat and burn out quickly. Aside from either having to stop and start again (mixing time increase) or possibly breaking your drill, you will also find that this puts a greater physical strain on you.
Compared to ordinary drills, dedicated mixer drills are specially designed to withstand heavier continuous loads caused by mixing. The drive elements deliver more power and significantly more torque, they also have more cooling for the motor to prevent it from overheating under heavy loads and finally they are specially designed for durability and optimal performance.
The thickness of the concrete and its area of application determine the resistance to the mixer. A thick concrete mix requires more power from the drill.
It would be best if you have some power depending on your work area and where the material is going to be poured. To calculate the exact horsepower you need to know the torque. .
ratings
You can find power drills that can range from 800 to 8,000 watts. If you work in an industrial environment, you may need more power. If you want to have enough power left over for other projects, ideally look for a powerful drill that can produce at least 1,300 watts.
Other factors to consider
Ability to mix
Think how many pounds of concrete you can mix at once. Many products will give you a guide for this, and the number of pounds of concrete is a guide to the maximum weight of a material you can handle without risk of overloading the mixer, although the cheaper products are designed for these jobs, they can nevertheless be prone to overheating which endangers the engine.
rotation speed
The speed of rotation of a concrete mixing drill depends on the engine speed in revolutions per minute and the engine speed. A high-end blender can do more than 700 rpm, but if you can get one that will do 500 rpm, it may fit.
The demand for more speeds lends itself to an electric transmission that can increase or decrease engine speed. Slow speeds are good for mixing thick materials like masonry, while the fast speed is ideal for mixing lightweight concrete for light jobs.
Buying Tip: A blender with gears that manipulate motor rotation is a better choice as it doesn’t create splatters that splatter the mixture all over the place. It also gives you the ability to be in control of the quality of the mix.
A powerful drill for mixing concrete requires an attachment that makes its rotation effective. Here’s something about the blade components
spindles
A mixing attachment can have either a single or double spindle. Mixing does double the work in a short time.
blades and paddles
Blades with paddles make mixing thick concrete manageable. All you have to do is check that the blades and paddle attachments fit your drill.
Attachments can be mixed in any direction or up and down. The blending style depends on your preferences. When purchasing the bits, you need to be sure that the chuck diameter of the drill bit is acceptable to avoid the disappointment of buying something you can’t use.
Finally
It’s only one thing to consider the power rating of a cement mixer, you should look at the other features as well. You should also consider the weight of the concrete mix and its application environment.
How do you mix plaster for casting?
Measure out 2 equal parts of plaster powder to 1 equal part of water by volume. Pour the water into a mixing container and then slowly add plaster powder. Allow it to soak for 2 minutes.
Drill for mixing plaster
Measure 2 equal parts gypsum powder to 1 equal part water by volume. Pour the water into a mixing bowl and then slowly add gypsum powder. Let it soak for 2 minutes.
Now mix plaster of paris and water until the mixture is creamy (about 4 minutes). Fill the mold halfway with plaster and gently rotate the mold in all directions to minimize air bubbles.
Is plaster a cement?
The most common types of plaster mainly contain either gypsum, lime, or cement, but all work in a similar way. The plaster is manufactured as a dry powder and is mixed with water to form a stiff but workable paste immediately before it is applied to the surface.
Drill for mixing plaster
This article is about the type of building material and “Plaster of Paris”. For other uses, see Gypsum (disambiguation)
Gypsum is a building material used for the protective or decorative coating of walls and ceilings, and for molding and casting decorative features.[1] In English, “gypsum” usually means a material used for interior decoration of buildings, while “render” usually refers to exterior applications.[2] Another imprecise term for the material is stucco, also commonly used for plaster of paris worked in some way to create relief decoration rather than flat surfaces.
The most common types of plaster primarily contain either gypsum, lime or cement,[3] but they all work in a similar way. The plaster is prepared as a dry powder and mixed with water to form a stiff but workable paste just prior to application to the surface. Reaction with water releases heat through crystallization and the hydrated gypsum then hardens.
Plaster is relatively easy to work with metal tools and sandpaper, and can be modeled in situ or pre-modeled and glued onto machined parts. Plaster lends itself more to finishing than wearing, and if applied thickly for decoration, a concealed support frame, usually metal, may be required.
Molds of gypsum have several other uses. In medicine, orthopedic plaster casts are still often used to support fixed bone fractures. In dentistry, plaster of paris is used to create dental models by pouring the material into dental impressions. Various types of models and molds are made from plaster of paris. In art, lime plaster is the traditional matrix for fresco painting; the pigments are applied to a thin, wet layer of plaster and fuse with it, so that the painting actually consists of colored plaster. In ancient times, in addition to the ornamental designs still used in plaster reliefs, plaster was also widely used to make large figurative reliefs for walls, although few of these survive.
history [edit]
Gypsum was first used in the Middle East at least 7,000 years ago as a building material and to decorate mortar between pyramid blocks and to provide smooth facing in places. A cult arose in Jericho in which human skulls were decorated with plaster and painted to appear lifelike. [citation needed] The Romans brought plastering techniques with Europe. [citation required]
Types [ edit ]
Clay plaster[edit]
Clay plaster is a mixture of clay, sand, and water, often with the addition of plant fibers for tensile strength over wooden battens.
Clay plaster has been used worldwide since at least ancient times. Settlers in the American colonies used adobe plaster for the interiors of their houses: “Interior plaster in the form of adobe predated even the construction of half-timbered houses, and must have been visible in the earliest half-timbered houses inside the wattle infill… Paneling had not been spoiled.” Clay continued to be used for the frame long after the introduction of battens and brick infill.”[4] Where lime was not readily available, it was rationed and usually replaced with clay as a binder. In Martin E. Weaver’s seminal work, he says, “Clay plaster consists of clay or earth mixed with water to give it a ‘plastic’ or workable consistency. If the clay mixture is too plastic, it will shrink, crack, and deform when it is subjected to ‘plastic’ or workable consistency Drying Sand, fine gravel and fibers were added to reduce the concentrations of fine clay particles that were the cause of excessive shrinkage.”[5] Manure was often added for its fiber content used.
Clay plaster was used in the plastering work of the earliest European settlers[5] McKee[4] writes of a 1675 Massachusetts treaty specifying the plasterer: “Is to lath and siele[6] the four rooms of the house between the beams over the head with a cloak of lime and hair on the clay; also to fill the gable ends of the house with bricks and plaster them with clay. 5. To batten and plaster the walls of the house with clay and lime, and to fill them with lime and hair, to batten and plaster; and to sift them and to lath the top with lime; also for filling, slats and plastering the kitchen up to the wall panel on all sides. 6. Said Daniel Andrews is said to find lime, brick, clay, stone, hair, along with laborers and laborers….”[7] New Haven colony records from 1641 also mention clay and hay, and lime and hair. Clay continued to be used in German homes in Pennsylvania.”[8]
Clay plaster primer on split oak lath fastened with straw and manure, covered with a lime plaster finish, Old Economy Village, Pennsylvania (1827)
Old Economy Village is one such German settlement. The early 19th-century utopian village in present-day Ambridge, Pennsylvania used clay plaster substrate exclusively in the tall architecture of the feast hall, the Great House, and other large and commercial brick and timber-frame buildings, as well as in the brick, frame, and log homes of the club members. The use of clay in plastering and masonry laying seems to have been common not only in economy village construction at the time when the settlement was established in 1824 Ohio Canal written c.1828 requires stone walls to be laid with clay mortar, except for 3 inches on the outside of the walls…which (should) be of good lime mortar and well pointed.”[9] The choice of clay was because of cheapness but also of availability. At Economy, root cellars dug under houses provided clay and sand (stone), or the nearby Ohio River provided washed sand from the sandbars; and lime outcrops and oyster shells for the lime kiln.
The woods surrounding the new village of Wirtschaft provided straight grain and old growth oaks for slats.[10] The hand-split slat starts with a log of straight-grained wood of the required length. The log is split into quarters and then split into smaller and smaller bolts using wedges and a sledge. When it was small enough, a froe and hammer were used to chip off narrow strips of lath. Livestock provided hair and fertilizer for the float plaster. Fields of wheat and corn provided straw and hay to reinforce the clay plaster. But there was no uniform clay plaster recipe.
Manure provides fibers for tensile strength as well as protein glue. Unlike casein, which is used with lime plaster, hydrogen bonding of manure proteins is weakened by moisture.[11] In braced half-timbered structures, clay plaster was used on interior walls and ceilings, as well as exterior walls, since the wall cavity and exterior cladding insulated the clay plaster from moisture penetration. The application of clay plaster in brick constructions risked water ingress through failed mortar joints on the exterior brick walls. In the Economy Village, the rear and center walls of the brick living quarters will be set in a clay and sand mortar, while the front wall will be embedded in a lime and sand mortar to provide a weatherproof seal to protect against water ingress. This made possible a clay plaster and a setting coat of thin lime and fine sand on rooms with brick walls on the outside.
Lime paint on clay plaster with straw binder. Applied to a hand-parted lath above a frame wall of a brick family home in Old Economy Village, Pennsylvania
The split batten was nailed with square cut batten nails, one in each frame member. With a hand-partitioned batten, the plasterer had the luxury of making a batten that fit into the cavity to be plastered. Slat lengths of two to six feet are not uncommon in Economy Village. Hand split slats are not uniform like sawn slats. The straightness or ripple of the grain affected the thickness or width of each slat and thus the spacing of the slat. The rough layer of clay plaster varies to cover the irregular lath. Window and door panels as well as the mudboard (skirting board) served as screed. By varying the thickness of the slats and using coarse straw and manure, the clay plaster became thicker compared to later lime and gypsum plasters. In Economy Village, the limestone facings are thin veneers, often an eighth of an inch or less, indicating the scarcity of limestone supplies there.
Clay plasters, with their lack of tensile and compressive strength, fell out of favor when industrial mining and technological advances in kiln production led to the exclusive use of lime and then gypsum for plaster applications. However, there are still clay plasters that, after centuries, have stuck to split slats on rusty square nails. The wall variations and roughness reveal a handcrafted and pleasingly textured alternative to machine-made modern substrate surfaces. But clay plasters are rare and fleeting. According to Martin Weaver, “Many interiors of historic buildings in North America are…all too often…one of the first things to disappear in the frenzy of interior demolition, which has unfortunately become a common companion to ‘heritage preservation’ under the guise of building renovation.”[ 5]
Gypsum plaster (plaster of Paris) [ edit ]
Gypsum,[12] also known as gypsum,[13] is a white powder composed of calcium sulfate hemihydrate. The natural form of the compound is the mineral bassanite.[14][15]
Etymology[ edit ]
The name “gypsum of Paris” came from the fact that it was originally made by heating gypsum from a large deposit in Montmartre, a hill on the north end of Paris.
chemistry [edit]
Gypsum plaster, gypsum powder or gypsum is made by heating gypsum to about 120–180 °C (248–356 °F) in an oven:[18][13]
CaSO 4 ⋅ 2 H 2 O + {\displaystyle {\ce {CaSO4.2H2O +}}} heat ⟶ {\displaystyle {\ce {->}}} CaSO 4 ⋅ 1 2 H 2 O + 1 1 2 H 2 O {\displaystyle {\ce {CaSO4.1/2H2O + 1 1/2H2O}}} (released as vapor).
Gypsum has the remarkable property of setting to a hard mass when wetted with water.
CaSO 4 ⋅ 1 2 H 2 O + 1 1 2 H 2 O ⟶ CaSO 4 ⋅ 2 H 2 O {\displaystyle {\ce {CaSO4.1/2H2O + 1 1/2H2O -> CaSO4.2H2O}}}
Gypsum is stored in moisture-proof containers because the presence of moisture can cause the gypsum to set slowly by inducing its hydration, rendering it unusable over time.[19]
When the dry gypsum powder is mixed with water, it will rehydrate into gypsum over time. The plaster slurry begins to set about 10 minutes after mixing and is completed in about 45 minutes. Plaster of Paris sets with a slight expansion in volume, which allows it to be used to make casts for statues, toys, etc.[19] The starting matrix consists mainly of orthorhombic crystals – the kinetic product. Over the next 72 hours, the rhombic crystals give way to an interlocking mass of monoclinic crystal needles, and the gypsum hardens and strengthens.[20] When gypsum or gypsum is heated to between 130 °C (266 °F) and 180 °C (350 °F), it forms hemihydrate, which also forms again as gypsum when mixed with water.
When heated to 180 °C (350 °F), the almost anhydrous form called γ-anhydrite (CaSO 4 ·nH 2 O with n = 0 to 0.05) is formed. γ-Anhydrite slowly reacts with water to return to the dihydrate state, a property exploited in some commercial desiccants. When heated above 250 °C (480 °F) the completely anhydrous form called β-anhydrite or deadburned gypsum is formed.
Use of gypsum plaster[edit]
An orthopedic cast for the hand.
Lime plaster[ edit ]
Lime plaster is a mixture of calcium hydroxide and sand (or other inert fillers). Carbon dioxide in the atmosphere causes the gypsum to set by converting the calcium hydroxide into calcium carbonate (limestone). Whitewash is based on the same chemistry.
To make lime plaster, limestone (calcium carbonate) is heated to above approximately 850°C (1600°F) to produce quicklime (calcium oxide). Water is then added to produce slaked lime (calcium hydroxide), which is sold as a wet putty or white powder. Additional water is added to form a paste before use. The paste can be stored in airtight containers. When exposed to the atmosphere, the calcium hydroxide very slowly converts back to calcium carbonate by reacting with atmospheric carbon dioxide, causing the gypsum to increase in strength.
Lime plaster was a common building material for wall finishes in a process known as batten and plaster, in which a series of wooden battens on a stud frame were covered with a semi-dry plaster that cured to a finish. The plaster used in most batten and plaster construction was mainly lime plaster with a curing time of about a month. Small amounts of gypsum were incorporated into the mixture to stabilize the lime plaster while it was curing. Because gypsum sets quickly, “retarders” have been used to slow the setting time enough to allow workers to mix large working batches of lime putty plaster. A modern form of this method uses expanded metal mesh over wood or metal structures, allowing for great design freedom as it can be adapted to both simple and compound curves. Today, this construction has been partially replaced by drywall, which also consists largely of gypsum plaster. With both of these methods, a key benefit of the material is that it is resistant to a fire in a space and so can help reduce or eliminate structural damage or destruction provided the fire is extinguished immediately.
Lime plaster is used for frescoes, where pigments diluted with water are applied to the plaster while it is still wet.
The US and Iran are the world’s top gypsum producers. [citation required]
Cement plaster [ edit ]
Cement plaster is a mixture of suitable plaster, sand, portland cement and water, typically applied to interior and exterior masonry to provide a smooth finish. Interior surfaces are sometimes given a final coat of gypsum plaster. Brick walls are usually plastered, while exposed brick walls are not plastered. Various cement-based plasters are also used as proprietary spray fire protection products. These usually use vermiculite as a lightweight aggregate. Heavy versions of such plasters are also used for exterior fire protection to protect LPG tanks, pipe racks and tank aprons.
Cement plaster was first introduced to America around 1909 and was often referred to by the generic name adamant plaster after a prominent manufacturer of the time. The advantages of cement plaster noted at the time were its strength, hardness, rapid setting time, and durability.[23]
Heat Resistant Plaster[edit]
Refractory plaster is a building material used to coat walls and chimney breasts and as fire protection in ceilings. Its purpose is to replace traditional gypsum plaster in cases where the temperature can become too high for the gypsum plaster to remain on the wall or ceiling.
Applications[ edit ]
In decorative architecture[edit]
Gypsum can also be used to create intricate details for use inside rooms. These can be geometric (simulating wood or stone) or naturalistic (simulating leaves, vines and flowers). These are also commonly used to simulate wood or stone detailing found in larger buildings.
Nowadays this material is also used for false ceilings. The powder form is converted into a plate form and the plate is then attached to the raw ceiling with the help of fastening elements. It is made in different designs that contain different combinations of lights and colors. The common use of this plaster can be seen in house construction. Direct painting is possible after construction (which is common in French architecture), but plaster of paris is used elsewhere. The walls are painted with the plaster, which (in some countries) is nothing but calcium carbonate. After drying, the lime plaster turns white and the wall can be painted. In other parts of the world, such as In Britain, for example, progressively finer coats of plaster are applied to the plasterboard (or sometimes directly to the brick wall) to give a smooth brown polished texture ready for painting.
art [edit]
Example of a stenciled plaster design
Murals are usually painted on a secondary support made of plaster. Some, like the ceiling of Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel, are frescoed, meaning painted on a thin layer of wet plaster called intonaco; The pigments sink into this layer, so the plaster itself becomes the medium that holds them, which explains the excellent durability of frescoes. Additional secco work may be applied to dry plaster, although this is generally less durable.
Plaster (often referred to as stucco in this context) is a much simpler material to make reliefs than stone or wood, and was widely used in Egypt and the Middle East for large interior wall reliefs (later architectural Decorations, such as in the Alhambra), Rome and Europe at least from the Renaissance onwards, as well as probably elsewhere. However, it needs very good conditions to survive long in non-preserved buildings – Roman decorative plasters are best known from Pompeii and other sites buried by the ash of Mount Vesuvius.
Gypsum can be poured directly into a wet clay mold. In the making of this piece, molds (molds for making multiple copies) or scrap molds (for single use) were made out of plaster. This “negative” image, if properly designed, can be used to make clay products which, when fired in a kiln, become terracotta building decorations, or these can be used to make cast concrete sculptures. If a plaster positive was desired, this was constructed or cast to form a permanent pictorial work of art. As a model for stonemasons this would suffice. If the plaster positive is intended for the production of a bronze cast, it can be further machined to create smooth surfaces. An advantage of this plaster picture is that it is relatively cheap; Should a customer approve of the permanent image and be willing to incur additional expense, subsequent molds could be made to create a wax image used in lost wax casting, a far more expensive process. Instead of making a bronze image suitable for outdoor use, the plaster image can be painted to resemble a metal image; such sculptures are only suitable for presentation in a weather-protected environment.
Gypsum expands as it sets and contracts slightly just before it is fully set. This makes gypsum excellent for use in molds and is often used as an artistic casting material. Plaster is also commonly spread over an armature (form) made of wire mesh, cloth, or other materials; a process of adding raised detail. Limestone or acrylic based plaster of paris known as stucco can be used for these processes.
Products composed primarily of plaster of paris and a small amount of Portland cement are used to cast sculptures and other art objects and molds. These products are significantly harder and stronger than regular plaster and are for indoor use only as they degrade in damp conditions.
medicine [edit]
Plaster is often used as a support for broken bones; A plaster-impregnated bandage is moistened and then wrapped around the damaged limb and placed in a snug but easily removable tube called an orthopedic bandage.
Plaster of paris is also used in preparation for radiation therapy when making custom immobilization shells for patients. Plaster casts are used to create an impression of a patient’s head and neck, and liquid plaster is used to fill the impression and create a plaster cast. The transparent material polymethyl methacrylate (perspex, perspex) is then vacuum formed over this bust to create a clear face mask that keeps the patient’s head steady during radiation.
In dentistry, gypsum is used to attach casts or models of oral tissue. These diagnostic and working models are usually made of dental plaster, a stronger, harder and denser plaster derivative made from plaster of paris under pressure. Plaster of Paris is also used for embedding and bedding in wax dentures, with the wax then being removed by “burning out” and replaced with flowable denture base material. The typical plastic denture base then hardens in the plaster embedding mold. Gypsum investments can withstand the high heat and pressure required to ensure a rigid denture base. In addition, in dentistry, there are 5 types of plaster products, depending on their consistency and use: 1) impression plaster (type 1), 2) model plaster (type 2), dental plaster (types 3, 4 and 5).
In orthopedics and prosthetics, plaster casts have traditionally been used to create casts of the patient’s limb (or residual). This negative impression was then itself filled with plaster to create a positive model of the limb and used to manufacture the final medical device.
In addition, dentures (false teeth) are made by first taking a dental impression made of a soft, pliable material that can be removed from the teeth and gums without loss of fidelity, and using the impression to create a wax model of the teeth and gums of the gums to create . The model is used to make a plaster mold (which is heated to melt the wax and flow out) and the prosthetic materials are injected into the mold. After a curing time, the mold is opened and the dentures are cleaned and polished.
Fire protection[edit]
Plasters have been used as fire retardants in passive fire protection for many decades.
Gypsum plaster releases water vapor when exposed to a flame, slowing the spread of fire for up to an hour or two, depending on the thickness. Gypsum also provides some insulation to retard the flow of heat into structural steel which would otherwise lose strength and collapse in a fire. Early versions of protective plasters often contained asbestos fibers, which are now banned in developed countries and must be removed and recoated.
Newer fire protection plasters contain either cement or gypsum as a binder and mineral wool or glass fiber to increase mechanical strength. Vermiculite, polystyrene beads or chemical expansion agents are often added to reduce the density of the end product and increase thermal insulation.
A distinction is made between interior and exterior fire protection. Interior products tend to be less massive, with lower density and lower cost. Outdoor products have to withstand harsher environmental conditions. A rough surface is usually warped inside buildings because false ceilings often hide it. Fireproof plasters are losing ground to more expensive intumescent and endothermic products, simply for technical reasons. Professional jurisdiction on unionized construction sites in North America remains with the plasterers, whether the plaster is decorative in nature or used in passive fire protection. Cementitious and gypsum-based plasters tend to be endothermic. Fire protection plasters are closely related to fire protection mortars. Most fireproofing mortars can be sprayed and machined very well due to the fine detail work required for fireproofing.
3D printing [ edit ]
Powder bed and inkjet printing 3D printing is usually based on the reaction of plaster of paris with water, with the water being selectively applied by the inkjet head.
Gallery [ edit ]
Security issues[edit]
The chemical reaction that occurs when gypsum is mixed with water is exothermic. When plaster of paris hardens, it can reach temperatures in excess of 60°C (140°F) and, in large quantities, can burn the skin. In January 2007, a secondary school pupil in Lincolnshire, England, suffered third degree burns after sticking her hands in a bucket of plaster as part of a school arts project.[24]
Gypsum containing silica or asbestos powder can be harmful if inhaled repeatedly. Asbestos is a known irritant when inhaled and can cause cancer, particularly in smokers, [25] [26] and inhalation can also cause asbestosis. Inhaled silica can cause silicosis and (in very rare cases) promote the development of cancer.[27] Persons who regularly work with plaster of paris containing these additives should take precautions to avoid inhaling plaster of paris powder, set or uncured. (Note that asbestos is rarely used in modern plaster formulations because of its carcinogenic[28] effects.)
People can be exposed to plaster of paris in the workplace through inhalation, ingestion, skin contact, and eye contact. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has set the legal exposure limit (permissible exposure limit) for exposure to gypsum in the workplace at 15 mg/m3 total exposure and 5 mg/m3 respiratory exposure over an 8-hour workday. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) has established a Recommended Exposure Limit (REL) of 10 mg/m3 total exposure and 5 mg/m3 respiratory exposure over an 8-hour workday.[29]
See also[edit]
DIY How to mix plaster or tile adhesive without paddle mixer
See some more details on the topic how to mix plaster without a paddle here:
Mixing a plaster without a paddle? – HomeOwnersHub
Use a stick, preferably not a round one because it doesn’t mix too well without ses! Make it around 30 inches long and hold the top of it with …
Source: www.homeownershub.com
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How to Mix Plaster – Step by Step Guide | Gypsumtools
Step 3: Mix the Plaster … Next up, you will want to immediately take your drill and paddle to start mixing up the contents of the bucket before …
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Mixing a plaster without a paddle? – DIY Forums
Is it possible to mix a wall plaster without a plaster multi mixer or a paddle? I brought a paddle suitable for 13mm chuck and my drill only …
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Date Published: 2/28/2021
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How to Mix Plaster, for a Perfect, Smooth Finish
Mix plaster in a clean bucket with clean fresh water, fill the bucket with water first, then add in the plaster powder, use a hand drill and mixing paddle …
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Mixing Plaster – Screwfix Community Forum
I saw the chap using a drill with a paddle mixer, but looking through the Screwfix range it seems you either have to choose a drill that is …
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How To Mix Plaster In 2022 – Step-by-Step DIY Guide (UK)
Large bucket or mixing tub; Drill with paddle mixer – You can also use a smooth, clean piece of wood if you don’t have a paddle mixer attachment for your drill …
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Mixing Veneer Plaster and Equipment (English) – PM9 – USG
A cage-type mixing paddle is recommended to draw plasters into and through the … and blends the ingredients in the mixing water without splattering.
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Dissolver Set Small Paint Mixing Paddle Mixer … – Amazon
… Mixing Paddle Mixer Paddle Mixer Tap – 100 mm Dissolver, 300 mm Shaft, Steel without Pegs – for Mixing Paint, Glue, Casting, Plaster, and much more.
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A Step-By-Step Guide To Mixing Plaster
This is part one of a multi-part series “A Guide to Wall Plastering”:
Contents: “Types of Plasters and Tools and Materials Needed to Plaster a Wall” is an overview of the series.
Part 1: “A Step-by-Step Guide to Mixing Plaster” This step-by-step guide to mixing plaster will help you understand the basics of mixing plaster (this article).
Part 2: “A Step-by-Step Guide to Plastering Your Wall” This step-by-step plastering guide will make your job easier. Hopefully the finished result looks like it was finished by a pro.
Part 3: “Causes of plaster cracks” In this part you will learn about the reasons for plaster cracks.
Part 4: “A Step-by-Step Guide to Repairing Cracks in Plaster Wall”, this step-by-step guide to repairing cracks in plaster wall will help you understand how to repair the cracks in plaster wall quickly.
This post will be updated as new sections are published.…
Build4less Pro Tip: Spatter and spills are a relatively unavoidable part of this process, but remember you’ll need to bring a heavy bucket of plaster back inside once the mixing is complete. To keep the mess to a minimum, consider mixing your plaster outside.
If you’re wondering how to hand mix plaster, how to mix plaster for wall repair, or how to make plaster for walls, you’ve come to the right place! Mixing plaster of paris can be easy with the right information and techniques, but mixing to the right consistency is extremely important to get the best results.
Plaster can be crucial in giving walls a smooth and flat finish that you can easily paint.
Build4less Pro Tip: Start by putting the cast in the water, never the other way around!
Why? Well, how much plaster you mix always depends on how much water you start with. Usually about half a bag of plaster is the maximum you can apply before the plaster sets if you’re new to the shuffle game.
However, always keep in mind that plaster is relatively cheap and it is therefore advisable to mix too much rather than too little.
Build4less Pro Tip: Try not to mix the plaster too thick as this can make it difficult to flatten the plaster and keep it at the right thickness.
You should spread the patch as thinly as possible and keep it very flat. A nice thin mix will always give the best results. A potential pitfall is that the wetter the patch, the more difficult it can be for you to control.
Step 1: Pour water into the bucket
Pour fresh water into a perfectly clean bucket, which should be more than large enough to hold all of the mixture and also have room for mixing.
Step 2: Add the plaster of paris to the mix
Pour half a bag of finishing plaster into the bucket.
The composition should be about 50/50.
Add gypsum (but not all) and you will see the gypsum sink and a good rule of thumb is to add just enough to begin with to start piling on the water surface.
Start by adding about half of your total amount of plaster.
If you got it wrong you would end up with clumpy and useless plaster.
Step 3: Mix the plaster
Immediately grab your drill and paddle to mix up the contents of the bucket before you get clumps that you might have a hard time mixing. If you don’t have a drill, don’t worry!
A bit of wood can be used to stir up the plaster as long as it’s fairly smooth.
Make sure you do this step thoroughly and smooth down any parts that are still dry or clumpy.
If you’re using a drill, make sure it’s set to a very slow speed so plaster doesn’t splatter out of the mixing bucket.
Swirl in both directions, lifting the paddle up and down and making sure you get to every corner of the bucket.
Step 4: Add more plaster of paris to the mix
After you’ve mixed the first batch of plaster of paris to a relatively smooth consistency, begin adding more plaster of paris slowly while mixing.
Dive further into the mixer drill to work through any larger clumps.
Repeat this process, trying not to add too much too quickly.
Step 5: Check plaster consistency
As you get closer to the finished mixture, look for a smooth, almost creamy texture.
If it’s still too watery, just add more plaster a little at a time until it feels right.
Build4less Pro Tip: There is no “perfect” consistency of plaster of paris, but in general it should be able to stand up if you stick a small piece of wood into the mix.
Add water or plaster again to adjust consistency, but try not to repeat this step too often.
As with anything, knowing how to do this right the first time will come with time and practice.
Step 6: Clean your gear
Wash equipment immediately after use.
As tempting as it may be after a long and tiring job, never let the plaster dry on your equipment as it can be incredibly difficult to remove and can ultimately wreck your tools!
Build4less Pro Tip: When doing a second mix, be aware that any contamination from previous mixes can set your plaster too quickly and therefore render it unusable.
You typically have around 45 minutes to use the finished patch before it goes out of date depending on the temperature and conditions you are in, so don’t hang around!
How to Mix Plaster: 12 Steps (with Pictures)
4
If you accidentally thickened the mixture too much, you can add more water to thin it out.
Let the plaster sit for a few minutes after you’re done mixing. At this point the plaster should be thick enough to pile onto the trowel without running off. Another useful test is to mill the top of the mix with your trowel and see that it fills up gradually – thin, soupy plaster will puddle immediately, while plaster that is too thick you may not notice any change at all.
Drill for mixing plaster
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