How To Re Blue An Air Rifle? Top Answer Update

I get asked this question very often. For many, the answer is surprising – NO! If the bluing is just worn off and there is no visible active red rust, Rustblue can be applied directly over it and will blend the old with the new and give an even texture. It is not necessary to remove all existing blue. I have restored many firearms that were blued by the rust blue method and by the caustic or hot water method. Rusty blue always leads to an imperceptible restoration of the paint. Why? This is because the blued surface formed by these processes has the same chemical composition. Rustblue produces a matte finish due to the atmospheric rusting process, while the other methods develop a more polished finish. Rustblue is much tougher and deeper. Blues formed by cold blue solutions are not the same and must be removed completely.

Active rust must be removed. But unless the entire metal surface is affected, only the affected areas need to be brushed down to bare metal or neutralized with rust removers. Just make sure the surface texture matches the unaffected areas. These stripped areas can be treated with Rustblue solution and transformed until their hue is close to the surrounding unaffected areas. Then even coats of Rustblue can be applied and the whole thing put together.

Good luck blueing!

Bob Veasey

president

www.rustblue.com

Process that partially protects steel from rust

This article is about the historical use of black oxide. For modern uses of black oxide, see black oxide

Blackening is a passivation process in which steel is partially protected against rust by a black oxide layer. It is named for the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. Blueing involves an electrochemical conversion coating that results from an oxidizing chemical reaction with iron on the surface and selectively magnetite (Fe

3 O

4 ), the black iron oxide. In comparison, rust, the red iron oxide (Fe

2 O

3 ), undergoes an extremely large change in volume upon hydration; This causes the oxide to flake off easily, causing the typical reddish rusting of iron. Black oxide offers minimal protection against corrosion unless additionally treated with a water-displacing oil to reduce wetting and galvanic action. In colloquial usage, thin coatings of black oxide are often referred to as “gun blue”, while thicker coatings are referred to as “black oxide”. Both refer to the same chemical process to achieve true bluing.[1]

Overview [ edit ]

Various methods are used for the oxidation process.

“Cold” bluing is generally a selenium dioxide-based compound that turns steel black, or more commonly a very dark gray. It is a difficult product to apply evenly, offers minimal protection and is generally best used for small quick repairs and touch-ups.[2][3]

The “hot” process is an alkali salt solution using potassium nitrite or sodium nitrate and sodium hydroxide, called “traditional caustic black”, typically performed at an elevated temperature of 135 to 155 °C (275 to 311 °F). . This method was adopted by larger gun manufacturers for large-scale, more economical bluing. It offers good rust resistance which is enhanced with oil.

“Rust Blue” and “Smoke Blue” offer the best rust and corrosion resistance because the process continuously transforms any metal that can rust into magnetite (Fe

3 O

4). Treatment with an oiled coating enhances the protection offered by the bluing. This process is also the only process that is safely used to re-blue old shotguns. Many double-barreled shotguns are soldered (lead) or silver soldered, and many of the parts are also attached using this method. The higher temperatures of the other processes, as well as their corrosive nature, could weaken the solder joints and make the gun dangerous to use.[4]

Blueing can also be done in a furnace, for example for a sword or other item traditionally made by a blacksmith or specialists such as an armorer. Forged products to this day are occasionally found in blued steel by traditional artisans in cultures and walks of life that use this technology either out of necessity or willingly.[5]

Processes [ edit ]

Hot bluing[ edit ]

Bluing can be applied by immersing steel parts in a solution of potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide, and water heated to the boiling point of 135–154 °C (275–310 °F), depending on the recipe. Similarly, stainless steel parts can be immersed in a mixture of nitrates and chromates and similarly heated. Each of these two methods is referred to as “hot bluing.” Hot bluing is the current standard[6] in pistol bluing because both it and rust bluing offer the most lasting level of rust resistance and cosmetic protection of exposed gunmetal, and hot bluing takes less time than rust bluing.

Rust bluing [ edit ]

Acid solution applied to bare metal

Parts rusted after cooking

After eight rusting, carding and oiling sessions

Rust bluing was developed between hot and cold bluing processes and was originally used by gunsmiths in the 19th century to blue firearms before the development of hot bluing processes. The process consisted of coating the gun parts in an acidic solution, allowing the parts to rust evenly, and then immersing the parts in boiling water to transmute the red oxide Fe

2 O

3 to black oxide Fe

3 O

4, which forms a more protective, stable coating than the red oxide; The boiling water will also remove any remaining residue from the applied acid solution (often nitric acid and hydrochloric acid diluted in water). The loose oxide was then carded off (scrubbed off) with a carding brush – a wire brush with soft, thin (usually about 0.051 mm (0.051 mm) thick) wires – or a wheel.

This process was repeated until the desired depth of color was achieved or the metal simply stopped coloring. This is one of the reasons why rust and smoke bluing are generally more rust resistant than other methods. The parts are then oiled and left overnight. This process leaves a deep blue-black finish.

Modern, do-it-yourself versions of this process typically use a solution of hydrogen peroxide and salt, sometimes with vinegar, for the rusting step to avoid the need for more dangerous acids.[7]

smoke bluing[edit]

Smoke bluing is another process similar to rust bluing. Instead of applying the acid solution directly to the metal parts, the parts are placed in a sealed cabinet with a source of moisture, a container of nitric acid, and a container of muriatic acid. The cabinet is then sealed. The mixed fumes of the acids will produce an even rust on the surface of the parts (inside and outside) in about 12 hours. The parts are then boiled in distilled water, blown dry and then carded as in rust burnishing.

These processes were later abandoned by major gun manufacturers as it often took days and was very labor intensive to fully complete. They are still sometimes used by gunsmiths to provide an authentic finish to a historical weapon from the time when rust bluing was in fashion, analogous to the use of tanning on earlier representative replica firearms. Rust bluing is also used on shotgun barrels that are brazed to the rib between the barrels, as hot bluing solutions melt the solder during the bluing process.

Large scale industrial hot bluing is often performed using a bluing oven. This is an alternate method of creating the black oxide coating. Instead of using a chemically induced hot bath process (although at a lower temperature), it is possible to heat steel by controlling the temperature just enough to cause black oxide formation selectively over red oxide. It also needs to be oiled to ensure significant rust resistance.

Cold Blue[ edit ]

There are also cold bluing methods that do not require heat. Commercial products are often sold in small bottles for cold bluing firearms, and these products are primarily used by individual gun owners to make small touch-ups to a gun’s finish to prevent a minor scratch from becoming a major source of rust on a gun over time . Cold bluing is not particularly resistant to holster wear, nor does it offer a high level of rust resistance. It often provides a reasonable cosmetic touch-up to a gun’s finish when regularly applied and given additional oiling. However, small area rust bluing often blends, blends and wears better than any cold bluing process.

At least one of the cold bluing solutions contains selenium dioxide. These work by depositing a coating of copper selenide on the surface.

Niter Bluing [ edit ]

Niter and color case

Nitrate bluing involves immersing polished and cleaned steel parts in a bath of molten salts—typically potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate (sometimes containing 9.4 grams (0.33 ounces) of manganese dioxide per pound of total nitrate). The mixture is heated to 310 to 321°C (590 to 610°F) and the parts are suspended in this solution with a wire. The parts are constantly observed for color changes. The cross-section and size of the pieces affect the result of the finish and the time it takes to achieve it. This process must not be used on critically heat treated parts such as receivers, slides or springs. It is generally used for smaller parts such as pins, screws, visors, etc. Colors range from straw to gold, brown, purple, blue, teal to black. Examples of this finish are common on older pocket watches whose hands are what is known as “peacock blue,” a rich iridescent blue.

Color case hardening[ edit ]

Case hardening is the precursor to all metal colors typically used in the firearms industry. Contemporary tempering steels did not exist or were still in their infancy. Soft, low-carbon steel was used, but strong materials were needed for firearm receivers. Initially, case hardening was used, but this offered no aesthetics. Case hardening occurs when mild steels have been packed in a reasonably airtight crucible in a mixture of charred leather, bone char, and charcoal. This crucible was heated to 730°C (1,350°F) for up to 6 hours (the longer the heat was applied, the thicker the case hardening). At the end of this heating process, the crucible is removed from the furnace and placed over a water bath, with air being forced through a perforated coil in the bottom of the bath. The bottom of the jar opens, allowing the contents to drip into the rapidly bubbling water. The differential cooling reveals color patterns and hardens the part.

Different colors can be achieved by variations on this method, including quenching in oil instead of water.

tan [ edit ]

‘Browning’ is controlled red rust Fe

2 O

3 and is also known as “pluming” or “plum brown”. You can generally use the same solution for the brown as for the blue. The difference is immersion in boiling water to bluing. The rust then turns into black-blue Fe

3 O

4 . Many older tanning and bluing formulas rely on corrosive solutions (necessary to cause metal to rust) and often contain cyanide or mercury salt solutions that are particularly toxic to humans.

Applications[edit]

Blueing is most commonly used by gun manufacturers, gunsmiths, and gun owners to improve the cosmetic appearance of their firearms and give them a degree of corrosion resistance. It is also used by machinists to protect and embellish tools made for their own use. Blueing also helps preserve the metal finish by resisting superficial scratches and also helps reduce glare on the shooter’s eyes when looking down the gun’s barrel. All blued parts still need to be oiled to prevent rust. Bluing, which is a chemical conversion coating, is not as robust against wear and corrosion resistance as plated coatings and is typically no thicker than 2.5 microns (0.0001 inches). For this reason, it is considered not to add significant thickness to precisely machined weapon parts.

New guns are usually available in a blued finish, which is offered as the least expensive finish, and this finish is also the least effective rust resistance when compared to other finishes such as Parker plating or hard chrome plating or nitriding processes such as Tenifer.

Bluing is also used to color steel parts of fine clocks and other fine metalwork. This is often accomplished without chemicals, simply by heating the steel until a blue oxide film appears. The blue appearance of the oxide film is also used as a temperature indicator when tempering carbon steel after hardening to indicate a tempering condition suitable for springs.

Blueing is also used to season cast iron cookware to make it relatively rustproof and non-stick. In this case, instead of gun oil, cooking oil displaces water and prevents rust.

High-quality fencing blades are often offered with a blued finish. Thanks to this surface treatment, they can be stored in high humidity like sports bags without rusting.

Bluing is often a hobby endeavor, and there are many methods of bluing and ongoing debate about the relative effectiveness of each method.

In the past, razor blades were often made of blued steel. A non-linear resistance property of razor blade blue steel, anticipating the same property later discovered in semiconductor diode junctions, combined with the ready availability of blue steel razor blades led to the use of razor blades as detectors in crystal set AM radios, which POWs often used in World War II built.[8]

Aluminum [ edit ]

Black oxide only works on steel, cast iron or stainless steel parts to protect against corrosion because it converts iron into Fe 3 O 4; it doesn’t work on non-ferrous material. Aluminum (Al) and polymer parts cannot be blued and there is no protection against corrosion. However, the chemicals from the bluing process can cause uneven coloring on aluminum and polymer parts. Hot bluing should never be attempted on aluminum as it will react and usually dissolve in the caustic salt bath.

Friction, such as from wearing holsters, quickly removes cold bluing, and also removes hot bluing, rust, or smoke bluing over long periods of use. It is usually not advisable to use cold blue as a touch up when friction is present. If cold bluing is the only viable option, the area should be left oiled to extend the life of the coating as much as possible.

See also[edit]

Chemical metal coloring – process of changing the color of metal surfaces using various chemical solutions

Notes [edit]

References[ edit ]

Further reading[edit]

Covered in a permanent solid lubricant, the bolt and bolt carrier assembly is inserted into the upper case of a weapon. Permanent Solid Lubricant or DSL is a dry surface treatment used on armor components and applied during manufacture. Th… (Photo credit: U.S. Army) ORIGINAL VIEW

PICATINNY ARSENAL, N.J. – While weapon maintenance may seem tedious to the unencumbered civilian, Picatinny Arsenal engineers know that a clean weapon can save the life of the war fighter.

Because of this, they are developing an advanced surface treatment for armor components that not only reduces weapon maintenance, but also provides increased reliability and durability.

Currently, when cleaning a gun, warfighters use a conventional wet lubricant known as a CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant, and Preservative), which is continuously reapplied.

CLEANING METHODS ARE CRITICAL

As early as 2003, the Army had problems with gun stops in sand and dust environments when proper lubrication procedures and cleaning methods were not followed.

Army engineers recognized the importance of weapon maintenance in these extreme environments.

So they set out to find a material solution that would result in a long-lasting solid lubricant.

“The new technology eliminates CLP and uses a dry surface treatment known as Permanent Solid Lubricant, or DSL, which is applied during the manufacture of armor components,” said Adam Foltz, experimental engineer at the U.S. Armament Research, Development and Engineering Center or ARDEC.

“To date, the DSL has been applied to small and medium caliber weapons such as rifles like the M4A1 carbine and machine guns like the M240 to demonstrate technological prowess,” Foltz continued.

By using the long-lasting solid lubricant, the guns work properly, require less maintenance, and the war fighter has more peace of mind regarding possible gun malfunctions.

Foltz is part of a team of ARDEC engineers who set out to conduct a rigorous program of materials screening experiments for an improved lubricant. The team was formed with a cross-functional team of subject matter experts.

In addition to Foltz, who serves in the Individual Weapons Division, other team members include Christopher Mulligan, research engineer (specializing in surface technologies) at Benét Laboratories, and Doug Witkowski, project manager at the Weapon Software and Engineering Center.

The team was challenged by its sponsor, the Joint Service Small Arms Program, to mature DSL technology and transfer it to Project Manager Soldier Weapons by FY2017.

“The soldier knew something had to be done,” Witkowski said.

“These extreme environments required strict adherence to weapon maintenance schedules and tended to degrade weapon performance when scheduled maintenance expired.

“The soldier knew that if this problem persisted, operational readiness would be impacted and the warfighter’s operational readiness would be impacted.”

Witkowski added that the Warfighter has similar problems with machine guns. “Army engineers have understood the importance of maximizing weapon reliability and reducing system performance sensitivity in adverse environments,” Witkowski said.

The program, a science and technology funded project, began in response to the US military’s Global War on Terrorism campaign to counter terrorist attacks on the United States.

However, Picatinny was not the first group to experiment with developing new surface treatments. A number of commercial and convention programs have also attempted to improve surface treatments for guns over the past 15 years but have been unsuccessful in finding a material solution.

The challenge with such a development is finding a solution that can do all the things that CLP does and make them even better, Foltz said.

MANY ADVANTAGES

The DSL solution achieves three ideal results: a lower coefficient of friction, better wear resistance and improved corrosion protection. “Coefficient of Friction” describes how a gun slides; A low coefficient means that the weapon slides easily, a high coefficient indicates sliding resistance.

“With typical wet lubricants, soldiers must reapply for the weapon system to function properly. Soldiers must also regularly remove carbon residue that has accumulated from firing, which can be difficult to clean,” explained Foltz.

“Our DSL has high wear resistance and a low coefficient of friction, making it easy to remove buildup. Residue can be tapped off with a steel brush and you don’t even have to worry about reapplying. ”

Additionally, current industry standards for preventing corrosion on armor components include treating steel parts with phosphate and oil, while aluminum parts are anodized (coated with a layer of oxide).

DSL uses a non-toxic material that eliminates the need for a phosphate/oil coating process, making it an environmentally friendly solution.

DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY

To achieve these goals, the team divided the project into three testing phases, from lab-scale experiments to live fire testing, to evaluate solutions quickly and effectively.

In the first step, 27 different coating combinations were tribiologically tested in a “Ball-on-Three-Disk” rapid test. During this test, a ball coated with the various candidate coatings is placed in rotating, sliding contact with a specified load against three pads also coated with the various candidate coatings.

Then the coefficient of friction is recorded and the wear on the pads is measured. Samples were tested in a variety of environments, including sand and sand, and at ambient and elevated temperatures (up to 480°F) to evaluate overall stability.

In stage two, the 27 combinations were selected down to six material combinations and placed in the team’s slide rail simulator.

The team created the slide rail simulator to provide a more accurate representation of the weapon’s unique geometry, motion, and contact stresses.

The simulator comprised two pieces of metal (referred to as a slide and a rail) coated with the materials of interest that slide against each other to simulate specific weapon actions.

In phase three, the team selected four different promising material combinations and conducted a small live fire test at the Armament Technology Facility. Tests included continuous fire at ambient temperature, hot and cold, sand/dust and salt/fog.

In the area, the project team fired 15,000 rounds per gun. The base firearms with the CLP showed wear and complete loss of the phosphate on approximately 75 percent of the slide surfaces of the bolt carrier and 90 percent of the bolt.

Meanwhile, the DSL material showed less than 5 percent wear on both the bolt carrier and the bolt.

In each case, the DSL material showed either improved or equivalent performance to the CLP baseline. The results showed increased wear resistance, increased reliability and improved maintainability.

Although this project is still ongoing, the payout for the Warfighter continues to increase. According to the team, the DSL material has potential application in numerous other armor systems, fabrication machines and advanced oil-free turbomachinery.

For now, however, the next stage for the DSL project is a repeat of Stage Three, but on a larger scale.

If the tests are successful, the project is handed over to the Project Manager Soldier Weapons, who finally presents it to its end customer, the Warfighter.

“I know it’s [weapons maintenance] not a glamorous subject, and when you brief, it briefs high-level technology,” Witkowski said. “But this is high-tech innovation and they [the warfighters] are going to love it when they get it.”

—–

The US Army Armament Research, Development and Engineering Center is part of the U.S. Army Research, Development and Engineering Command, missioned to ensure decisive overmatch for unified land operations to strengthen the Army, the common war fighter and our nation. RDECOM is a major sub-command of the U.S. Army Material Command.

Related Links:

Army technology live

United States Army Defense Research, Development and Engineering Center

US Army Material Command

Army.mil: Science and Technology News

US Army Research, Development and Engineering Command

Picatinny Facebook

ARDEC Facebook

Opinions vary as widely as the project being blued! Most people agree that dipping the metal, whenever possible and practical, provides the easiest and most consistent finish. Other methods include applying with small pieces of cotton cloth (4″X4″), a new toothbrush or paintbrush, degreased #0000 steel wool, airless sprayers, and even garden sprayers. How Vans Instant Gun Blue is applied has a lot to do with the visual effect the user is trying to achieve. Be creative!

The patina, or natural, worn finish of your firearm can actually be an important part of its value. On older antique firearms, this slightly worn finish, which increases with age, use, and exposure, is sometimes an integral part of their collectibility, history, and preservation. It takes years of handling, oiling and aging to develop a patina and no two are the same. A well-curated patina sometimes comes about by accident, but more often than not it comes from years of maintenance and care. Not only can it make a firearm aesthetically pleasing, but it also provides a protective coating for metal and wood that would otherwise be damaged by corrosion or weathering.

Some of the best-preserved older firearms have a subtle patina that has developed from handling, use, and continual oiling. Exposure to the elements (oxygen, moisture, rain, acid rain, carbon dioxide and sulphur-containing compounds) and chemical reactions also play a role. Depending on the environment in which a gun has been used and stored, a patina can mean as little as a slight discoloration of the finish to a change in the surface texture of metal or wood.

A Colt Police Positive in .38 Special with a patina over 50 years old on the metal surface.

Blue patina

Burnishing is a process by which steel is treated and partially protected against rust; It is named for its blue-black appearance. As metal bluing ages and a firearm is used and handled, its ability to ward off oxidation (rust) diminishes and worn areas with less protective bluing begin to discolour. Unprotected (oiled or coated) these diluted bluings can rust quickly. While surface rust is usually easily removed, unattended rust will lead to pitting, which permanently damages a metal surface.

The key to protecting and preserving the blueness of a firearm is to maintain an oil finish on the metal and avoid storage in wet or damp locations.

Should I re-blue or re-varnish my gun?

The short answer is no. If your intent is to maintain the collectability and value of a firearm, the answer is usually no. Don’t re-blue your gun. Firearms with the original finish are generally more valuable than those that have been refinished (reblued or parked), even if they show visible wear and discoloration. A firearm that is a bit worn with its original finish is more valuable than one that has been refinished (re-blued).

What about the oils from my hands?

Human skin contains natural oils that protect our skin. No matter how often you wash your hands, your hands have a natural oil that can transfer to a firearm’s finish. In certain circumstances, these hand and skin oils can mar a wood’s finish and even discolor the wood over time. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, however, as hand and skin oil can contribute to the development of a patina on a firearm. It could even be argued that the oil on your hands helps preserve the wood and metal finish. There is one exception; If your gun is new to the box, unused and very lightly handled, it’s not a bad idea to “white glove” your gun and wear gloves when handling it. A patina is not always desired. If the gun has been used a bit and already has a patina, don’t worry about your hand and skin oils on the gun. It can actually help to preserve it.

in summary

A natural usage patina that matches a firearm’s age is aesthetically pleasing, helps preserve a firearm, and generally increases its value. Do not repaint your older antique firearms, they are more valuable in their original paintwork (even if they are worn). Leave the dust on, leave the paint and brasso in the garage and avoid bluing again. This patina has taken years to develop – it makes your old firearm valuable and unique.

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If you type “blue steel” into your internet search bar, you’ll get two main results. The first is Ben Stiller’s character from the movie Zoolander, and the other is about the finish of a gun. Blackening is a passivation process used to treat steel to prevent rust. The chemical process results in a blue-black finish, hence the name. The bluing not only provides rust protection but also leaves a cosmetically pleasing finish on the gun.

Some of the other functional aspects of bluing include scratch resistance under normal use, as well as reducing glare in a shooter’s eyes. Of course, all blued pistol components still need oiling to maintain effectiveness.

The modern standard in bluing processes is hot bluing. Hot bluing involves immersing steel components in a solution of potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide and water, which is then heated to a range of 275-310 degrees Fahrenheit. Thin coats of black oxide produce a lighter gray finish, while thicker coats produce a darker black finish.

For more information on bluing, see this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La501c2WzCA&t=448s

Do you have a blued steel gun in your collection that you would like to sell? Or maybe another firearm? Cash My Guns experts can inspect the finish and give you an honest assessment. We are a licensed agent to turn your unwanted guns into cash. Contact us by phone at (775) 432-6006 or email us at [email protected] to see what your gun is worth today.

Bluing products improve the brightness of white fabrics by adding a blue pigment that counteracts the natural yellowing that occurs with normal laundering. These bluing products come in both powder and liquid forms. The eye perceives the barely perceptible blue component and sees the fabric as whiter. Commercial bluing products are highly concentrated and must be diluted before use to avoid permanent stains and streaks.

What is laundry tanning? In laundry tanning, a product adds a trace amount of blue dye to white fabric during the wash to enhance its appearance. Blacking products in higher concentrations can darken jeans and other blue fabrics.

Liquid burnishing is a colloidal suspension of a very fine blue iron powder and water. Other ingredients include a pH balancer and a biocide to prevent the build-up of algae and bacteria. You can also buy bluing powder.

Mrs. Stewart’s Liquid Blueing is a leading brand in the United States; other brands are Bluette and Reckitt’s Crown Blue.

Learn how blueing works, how to use it in different types of washing machines, how to darken the jeans you want to a darker blue, and see how to remove blueing stains from your clothes.

The Spruce / Michele Lee

Use of laundry browning in a top-loading washing machine

Manufacturers use the bluing when finishing white goods, but unfortunately the bluing wears off after repeated washing. The good news is you can add it back in using commercial liquid bluing. Here’s how:

Always dilute the bluing (it’s highly concentrated) in cold water before putting it in a washing machine. Never pour it directly into the machine as it can cause permanent stains on fabrics. To lighten whites in the wash cycle in a standard or top-load HE washing machine, stir 1/4 teaspoon of liquid bluing into a quart of water. Use a glass jar to prevent plastic containers from getting dirty. Then add the solution to the wash water.

If you are only adding the bluing to the rinse cycle, use 1/8 teaspoon dissolved in a quart of water. Never use an automatic bluing dispenser in a top-loading washing machine, either for the wash or the rinse cycle, as this will soil the dispenser.

Bluing can be used with laundry detergents but should not be used with chlorine bleach, fabric softener or other detergents. It does not produce any hazardous fumes, but the other products will stain or stain if used in conjunction with the bluing.

The Spruce / Michele Lee

Using a front loading washing machine

For use in a front-load washing machine, use the same amounts of bluing as above. If your washing machine’s dispenser drawers are left unlocked during the wash cycle, dilute the bluing in a liter or two of water and pour it through the dispenser directly into the wash cycle after it is already filled with water.

If your front-loading washing machine drawers lock up at the beginning of the wash cycle, dilute the bluing as directed on the bottle, then add as much diluted bluing as will fit in the largest drawer available.

Dark blue jeans with bluing

More blue can be used for blue jeans. You can use up to 1 teaspoon per quart of water, depending on how dark you want your jeans to be. Follow the directions for your washing machine, or use a porcelain sink or metal bucket for the process. Bluing will permanently stain plastic containers and fiberglass sinks.

The Spruce / Michele Lee

Remove bluish stains

We all have a tendency to think that if a little works well, a little more is even better. This might work for some things, but not for bluing. If you’ve gotten a little awkward or skipped a few steps on how to use bluing correctly, here’s how to remove bluing stains from washable garments:

You’ll need a non-metallic container that can be sealed tightly (a 5-gallon bucket with a good, leak-proof lid, or a plastic bag with a twist-lock lid). Place the stained clothes in the bin.

Mix a solution of 1/2 cup household ammonia with a quart of cold water. Make enough solution to completely submerge the stained clothing. Make the container as airtight as possible to keep the fumes inside. Ammonia evaporates very quickly, and ammonia is the only substance that will remove excess blue stain. Soak for 24 hours. If the stain is not gone within 24 hours, mix up a fresh ammonia solution and repeat the process. Finally, wash the clothes in a regular cycle with detergent only.

Warning Never mix ammonia with chlorine bleach. Mixing ammonia and chlorine bleach creates toxic and hazardous fumes. Bleach will also permanently fix the bluish stains.

If you’ve already tried to remove excess blue stain with chlorine bleach, use a solution of 1 cup household ammonia to 1 quart cold water and soak, covered tightly, for 48-72 hours. You may need to do this process 2-3 times, washing with detergent after each process.

School starts now! Use exclusive code STEAMJULY to get 25% off any Mel Science order through July 31st!

Save this idea for later so you don’t forget to use it!

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There are many crystal experiments out there! We love making all kinds of crystals. Today we will learn all about growing crystals with bluing and ammonia. It’s a fun twist on classic salt crystals and one of our favorite classic science fair projects!

How to grow bluestain and ammonia crystals

Follow these instructions to learn how to grow blue stain and ammonia crystals! This crystal garden science experiment is so beautiful and kids love to do it over and over again!

Is there a wash tan replacement?

This experiment is much, much easier if you use wash tanning. However, you cannot always get it.

If you can’t find liquid laundry bluing, try your own DIY powder laundry bluing:

How to make powder bluing

You can make your own bluing suspension by mixing three cups of baking soda with 1/2 teaspoon of Prussian blue pigment powder. Mix this with distilled water at a 1 to 1 ratio to make your own homemade bluing.

How to make bluing crystals a science fair project

To make a science experiment or demonstration a scientifically fair project, all you have to do is add variables for testing!

You can use our Bluing Crystal Lesson Plan to turn your Bluing and Ammonia Crystals into a complete science fair project or science experiment with a hypothesis, variables, and recording data!

If you want to have more fun crystal learning, check out how to grow salt crystals at home and check out our list of classic science fair projects.

Blueing and Ammonia Crystal Hypothesis

For this crystal science experiment, all you need to start your experiment is a hypothesis!

Here are some variables to test:

What happens if you don’t add bluing?

Does ammonia make a difference in how quickly the crystals form?

Does the base material affect the formation of the crystals?

Bluing and Ammonia Crystal Scientific Explanation

Bluing and ammonia crystals are another type of salt crystal. Here’s how to make salt crystals.

However, adding bluing changes the chemical composition of the crystals. Blacking contains a suspension of ferric ferrocyanide containing iron particles.

Rather than the salt crystals forming around each other as is typical with an ionic crystal, the crystals form a “crystal bloom” around the iron particles, creating much more organic looking crystals that are delicate and not at all like a standard square salt crystal.

The ammonia doesn’t change how the crystals form, but it does speed up the crystal formation process.

Accessories for the bluing and ammonia crystal experiment

Shop these Amazon affiliate links to find everything you’re missing before you start this experiment!

To be on the safe side, you will also need scissors, safety goggles and child-sized latex gloves.

Instructions for growing crystals with bluing and ammonia

Making blue crystals is surprisingly easy! That’s how it’s done:

Mix 3 tablespoons of water, salt, and ammonia in a bowl.

Add 6 tablespoons bluing to the same mixture and stir.

Cut your sponges into small squares. You can arrange them on a plate or, like us, put them in a glass.

Pour the solution over the sponges.

Wait several days.

You can add more liquid to the bottom of your container on day 2 or 3 if you’d like, but we’ve found this isn’t necessary.

After about 1-2 weeks, your feathered crystals will be ready for inspection!

Examine these crystals with a magnifying glass to see how they differ from regular salt crystals.

More crystal science experiments

Super fun and easy Crystal Science Fair projects

How to make crystals without borax

Borax Crystal Science Project

alum crystals

Save this idea for later so you don’t forget to use it!

Free personalized metal finishing help!

Pistol bluing / cold bluing

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An ongoing discussion that began in 2002…

Q. I’m looking for the steps to turn a weapon blue without heating it. If there isn’t one, I’d like to try a store-bought method. Any information anyone has would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks,

Chris Duffy

– Sault Ste Marie, Ontario, Canada

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A. Chris, Cold Bluing is pretty easy. The most important thing is clean metal. The metal must be free of any oil etc. Even a fingerprint leaves enough oil to prevent a good bluing. The surface of the metal needs to be polished to how you want it to end up before bluing. Bluing just colors what’s there. There are many cold blue solutions. Just follow the instructions that come with the product. Cold blue doesn’t hold up like a good hot blue job but can come out nice. Much luck. EdKay

– St Louis, Missouri

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A. Hello, I have cold blued several guns. I have G96 [affil. Link to info/product on Amazon] gun blue. The trick is to completely remove all old bluing and then buff up, remove any holes with a file and then wet buff with 180 grit sandpaper until you get a high gloss finish. Then stick a wooden dowel into the barrel to use as a handle so you don’t have to touch the metal. Clean and degrease with rubbing alcohol or a commercially available degreaser. After degreasing, it is important not to touch the metal with your bare hands. Apply the G96 with cotton balls or sterile pads. It should take on some sort of green color when dry, make sure you have an even coat and when you are happy with that wash the gun in hot water, hot enough to dry it out after removing it from the water, buff them lightly with the finest 0000 steel wool [affil. Link to info/product at Rockler] then rub well with an oilcloth (Barricade Wipes [affiliate link to info/product at Amazon]) You will be satisfied with the result. Last note, if you are not happy with the evenness of the blue, apply more G96 before washing. Hope this helps Shane Cluett

– Neepawa, Manitoba, Canada

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“Bluing and Browning of Firearms”

from Angier

by Abe Books

or

affiliate link

(Your purchases are made possible by Finishing.com) A. For a particular steel, I may need to experiment to find which cold blue process works best, if any. The products I have used are: 1) Oxpho-Blue [affil. Link from editor to info/product at Brownells] Cold blue 2) Dicropan T-4 [affil. Link from editor to info/product at Brownells] [liquid] cold blue 3) G96 [affil. Link to info/product on Amazon] [single color] cold blue 4) Simple Green [affil. Link to info/product on Amazon] [liquid] Degreaser 5) Scotch Brite [affil. Link to info/product on Amazon] [green] 6) Motor oil [liquid] Typically I will: 1) Degrease and then do not touch with hands.

2) Apply Dicropan for a dark but not permanent blue

3) degreasing

4) Rub on Dicropan

5) degreasing

6) Place round objects in lathe, rotate and apply Oxpho Blue with Scotch Brite while pressing hard enough to apply but not enough to remove too much.

7) Degreasing

8) Place round objects in lathe, rotate and apply Oxpho Blue with Scotch Brite while pressing hard enough to apply but not enough to remove too much.

9) Brush lightly over the oxpho blue with motor oil.

10) Leave overnight to darken.

11) Wipe off oil The idea is that the dicropan gets into the micro grooves of the steel and is rubbed off by the micro ribs. The more durable but less dark oxpho is then applied to the micro ribs. Dicropan or Oxpho Blue or G96 may not work on some steels so it’s best to try different things in different orders. Clark Magnuson

– Mercer Island, Washington

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Q. I would like to know if there is anything you can add to a gun receiver to bring back the case color or re-apply at home. I’d love to do this myself, although there are people out there doing it for others

Virgil Hudson

Hobbyist – Racine, West Virginia

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Q. What do you think of Butch’s gun bluing and Mother’s gun bluing? Does this get the same smooth surface quality as the heated methods? David.

David Rickard

Rookie – Washington

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A. Cold bluing is no match for hot bluing, David: see our Black Oxide and Cold bluing FAQ for an introduction. Based on letter 34769 we don’t think there is a product like Mother’s Gun Blueing. On this non-registration site we don’t compare any brand to any other (why?) 🙂

Much luck.

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

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Q. Is there a difference between cold bluing in terms of active chemicals? Which different ones could give a deeper blue like a Colt Python Blue or which ones could give a blacker appearance?

What is the content of the different bluing solutions?

Chris Lade

Do-it-yourselfer and gun enthusiast – Amarillo, Texas, USA

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Answer: Hi Chris. I think the main ingredient in all that cold blues is probably selenium. I think you’ll find that the polish on the parts has a lot more impact on the perceived color than the brand you use. Very highly polished metal looks quite jewel blue, while matte metal looks quite black. I suspect the reason is that the highly polished finish has little surface area and therefore gets little saturation, while the matte finish, with all its little nooks and crannies, absorbs a lot of blueness and becomes much more saturated in colour. Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

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Q. I have a Winchester 1890 that my father re-blued with cold blue. Is there a way to remove it to restore it to its original state?

Bruce

Bruce Koch

– Bethalto, Illinois USA

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A. Hi Bruce. If you know what you want it to look like I think a finish that looks like this can be obtained. But it’s not really “as is” because the original paintwork probably wore off a hundred years ago. Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

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Blueing a Colt 1902 military version

Q. I recently got my hands on the Colt 1902 military model. I know Colts have value as long as they contain the amount of original Colt Blue. However, since I won’t be selling it, I thought about re-blueing the gun.

In Pakistan we don’t have a high quality bluing on any product let alone guns. I plan to try Birchwood Casey Perma Blue (cold blue).

But before the process, I’d like an expert’s opinion on whether I should derust it and polish it enough to end up with a shiny metal?

Or should I just apply the rust remover and blue the gun?

Esaz Khan

Hobbyists – Peshawar, Pakistan

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A. *IF* it was my gun I wouldn’t try to rework it at all. Rework, no matter how well done, always diminishes the value of old guns.

I would use a good rust inhibitor, rub it off with a cloth and leave it alone.

Jeffrey Holmes, CEF

Spartanburg, South Carolina

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Q. I have a display only MG34 receiver that currently has a Parkerized finish and I’d like to try cold blueing it to match the parts kit I have. Does the current paint have to be removed beforehand? The metal is 4140 steel. Would I be better off “biting the bullet” and having someone that hot? Any help with this would be appreciated.

Craig Gilge

– Gig Harbour, Washington, USA

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