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What size is the castle nut on an AR 15?
Castle Nut Wrench accepts 3/8″ drive and has cutouts to fit onto standard AR-15 carbine buffer tube castle nut. USGI Barrel Nut Wrench accepts ½” drive.
How to Remove and Replace Your Buffer Tube
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How does a castle nut work?
A castellated nut, also known as a castle nut, has three notches in one end, giving an appearance similar to the crenellated battlements of a castle. Castellated nuts are a positive locking device that’s used to ensure that the nut remains affixed and resists vibration.
How to Remove and Replace Your Buffer Tube
A castellated nut, also known as a castle nut, has three notches on one end that have an appearance similar to the crenellated battlements of a castle. Castle nuts are a positive locking device used to ensure the nut stays fastened and resists vibration.
These components are used in combination with a screw that has a pre-drilled radial hole. The nut is tightened and a pin is inserted through the notches and hole in the bolt, preventing the nut from turning.
Several types of pins can also be used for this purpose. These include:
A cotter pin, also known as a cotter pin – a fastener with two prongs that bend apart after insertion to prevent removal.
An R-Clip, also known as a hairpin cotter pin or clutch pin – a spring-loaded metal fastener with a straight leg that inserts into the hole and a profiled leg that grips the outside of the nut.
Safety or locking wire – a wire that is threaded through the notches and hole, then twisted and anchored to secure the nut.
With six notches spaced 60 degrees apart, the castellated nut can only be locked where a notch matches the hole. Once properly tightened, the nut will need to be rotated again up to 30 degrees (in either direction) to find the hole.
Because the torque cannot be fine-tuned, castle nuts are better suited for low-torque applications. They are unsuitable for applications that require a specific preload.
Castle nuts are often threaded Unified Inch Fine (UNF) or Unified Inch Coarse Series (UNC) – typically from 1/4 to 1-1/2 inch in varying nut widths and heights.
A castle nut has a smaller diameter cylindrical top where the notches are located, with a higher profile than a typical nut of its size. It is similar to a slotted nut, but the rounded section of a castellated nut allows the pin to be secured to the nut more tightly than is possible with a slotted nut.
In addition, a castellated nut is a movement and vibration resistant locking device, but it can be easily removed. This makes it a popular choice for securing a bearing’s position on a spindle. Castle nuts are commonly used in the automotive, aircraft and locomotive industries.
Are all castle nuts the same size?
Castle nut size refers to its nominal thread diameter. Typically, sizes range from about 1/4″ to 1 1/2″. Size is specified in inches, usually fractional rather than decimal. Nut width and height vary with the size of the castle nut.
How to Remove and Replace Your Buffer Tube
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What is another term for castle nut?
A castle nut (also called a castellated nut or slotted nut) with cotter pin is used to secure the wheel hub to the vehicle.
How to Remove and Replace Your Buffer Tube
A castellated nut (also called castellated nut or slotted nut) with split pin is used to secure the wheel hub to the vehicle.
AR15 based tools built into the Z Hawk include the Castle Nut Wrench, Barrel Nut Wrench, Flash Dampener Wrench and A2 Receiver Extension Wrench.
Other features include a tactical sling attachment slot, sling pivot pin, steel castle nut, steel locking ring, and steel pistol grip screw.
Remove the cotter pin from the end of the shaft with the castle nut.
Using needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pin in the slotted castle nut on the axle.
After shutting down, he began his daily inspection and found that there was no castellated nut installed on the collective flight control bellcrank.
What is the difference between a castle nut and slotted nut?
Castellated nuts are formed with a round section at the top where the slots are located. Slotted nuts do not have this rounded modification. The flat sides of slotted nuts extend fully from the top to the bottom of the nut.
How to Remove and Replace Your Buffer Tube
Nut cover secured against twisting with a cotter pin. The effect is similar to using a castle nut. A car hub where the central nut is hidden behind a crown crown secured against twisting with a cotter pin. The effect is similar to using a castle nut.
A castellated nut, sometimes referred to as a castellated nut, is a nut with slots (notches) cut into one end.[1] The name comes from the nut’s resemblance to the crenellated parapet of a medieval castle. Kronnuts are sometimes incorrectly referred to as split nuts.
While castellated nuts are often referred to as slotted nuts, technically slotted nuts are slightly different from castellated nuts. Castle nuts are molded with a rounded section at the top where the slots are located. Slotted nuts do not have this rounded modification. The flat sides of slotted nuts extend all the way from the top to the bottom of the nut. Both castle and slotted nuts are designed to use a pin (usually a cotter pin) that fits through the slots and through a hole in the bolt to which the nut attaches. This pin prevents the nut from turning and loosening. Compared to slotted nuts, castellated nuts allow the cotter pin to be held closer to the edges of the nut itself, providing additional security.
The screw has one or two holes drilled through its threaded end. The nut is properly tightened and then, if the slot does not line up with the hole in the fastener, the nut is rotated forward to the next slot. The nut is then secured with a split pin/split, spring cotter or safety wire. It is a positive locking device.[1]
Castle nuts are used in low torque applications such as: B. to hold a wheel bearing in place.[1]
References[ edit ]
Is a castle nut the same as a lock nut?
A lock nut relies on friction alone. In an oily environment, that would be compromised. A castle nut and cotter pin are a mechanical lock.
How to Remove and Replace Your Buffer Tube
Ron
I wouldn’t rely on a locknut at a critical point. A lock nut relies solely on friction. In an oily environment, this would be at risk. A castellated nut and cotter pin is a mechanical lock. In my opinion this is more reliable. If necessary, a few thousandths can be filed off the bottom of a castle nut to help line up the hole.
1948 CJ2A – It’s nowhere fast, but it’s slow everywhere.
IMHO, in most cases the only advantage is originality. Pinion shafts are not most instances!
Locknuts require a bolt without the hole in the thread and a larger torque value to balance the locking function. I’ve seen locknuts used with a hole in the thread, but the hole tends to tear the nylon lock, rendering the lock unusable. Steel locknuts work better, but the hole can also damage them.
If you can use washers to space the nut out so the locking function isn’t affected by the hole, you might be ok. According to my Aircraft Standards Handbook you need at least two (2) threads protruding beyond the nut.
Some people say it’s okay if the hole is free of burrs. Personally, I wouldn’t trust a pinion shaft to do that. Here you can decide which risks you want to take. Again, I recommend using locknuts on a pinion shaft designed for a castle nut.
Locknuts are reusable as long as the locking function still works. In other words, if you can’t unscrew the nut with your hands, it’s good.
IHTH, Cpt Logger.
Edited by cpt logger – Sep 17, 2018 @ 6:10pm
There’s a reason a lot of old Jeeps had safety cables, and road bikes need to wire up a few things so they don’t lose anything on the track. Those nylock nuts aren’t that good and you can only use them once.
unkamonkey
My t90 conversion kit came with a Nylok, I used it. Big mistake, the TC input gear fell off.
Edited by TERRY – Sep 17, 2018 @ 10:43pm
ROCK 48 2A
Locknuts are ok. In the light aircraft theater everyone is obsessed with castellated nuts and cotter pins. (Roc calls them Carter Pins) Then McCauley propellers came out with a recommendation to use Nyock nuts on the propeller. There is no part more important than a propeller on a Piper Cub. My post is held on with nylock nuts, don’t worry.
Ralph
1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A
1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee tractor
1941 J-3 Cub
1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor
1942 Clarktor tugboat from WW2
Ralph wrote:
….. castellated nuts and cotter pins. (Roc calls them Carter Pins)
Hey Ralf, I think all that thin air of yours flying all over the place is affecting your memory a bit… you only remember half of this story. I think it went something like “I hate it when someone calls them Carter pins” “It’s kind of like a favorite leaf of mine”
However, I DID see some of those ramps you’re referring to in that wooded area. Old country shops/garages used to have them.
Hey Ralf, I think all that thin air you’re blowing all over the place is kind of affecting your memory…you only remember half of this story. It’s kind of like a pet vacation from me. “I did however see some of those ramps you’re referring to in that wooded area. Old country stores/garages used to have them.
’47 CJ2A PU
’48 CJ2A left-handed
“Common sense is not that common”
I remember writing a scholarly article consisting of impressive citations showing that Carter pins were the correct and accepted nomenclature for cotter pins in the Great Hebrides and in some parts of East Angela.
1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A
1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee tractor
1941 J-3 Cub
1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor
1942 Clarktor tugboat from WW2
If you don’t want to use Carter pins, can you use duck tape?
Wannabe Flatfender
’71 wannabe Ford Bronco Bob Flatfender
Damn Ralf I had to look up the Great Hebrides…now I know there’s an inside and an outside just like wheel bearings!
’47 CJ2A PU
’48 CJ2A left-handed
“Common sense is not that common”
I wonder what you would all think of Grampa’s starting Battree in his Ponteeac with Radal tires? Apologies to the original poster here, but all I can say is that I miss Ralf not being active here lately. Mostly lawyers annoy me, but most of the time he makes me smile.
48 CJ2A (Grandpa’s Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grandpa’s Jeep Build Thread Stan48 CJ2A (Grandpa’s Jeep)59 Chevy 1/2 Ton
…or the Cadillac converter for late model stuff.
46 CJ-2A #64462 “Ol’ Red” (purchased April 1969) (second owner) (12V, 11″ brakes, M-38 frame, MDJuan tub)
US Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer (Retired)
US Army Vietnam Veteran and damn proud of it.
With others, I think he just wanted to have fun. For example, it never seemed to occur to him that golf was spelled with an L and was always pronounced with two Os instead. My grandpa had some good ones too. Many of them were what we called “Swinglish”, a mix of the Swedish he spoke as a child and the English he learned after emigrating as a young adult. Like going fishin.
Wannabe Flatfender
’71 wannabe Ford Bronco Bob Flatfender
Later model Dana 44, 60, 70 axles all use a “torque predominant” pinion nut. This nut is an all-metal construction with threads that are skewed on three sides of the hex. It is intended for single use and is discarded after being removed from a sprocket. The sprockets these nuts are used on have involute splines, not 10 splines.
With torque ratings over 150 ft/lbs I can’t imagine them loosening in any situation. The downside is that the nut measures
1 5/16″ over the flats and this may prevent it from being used on older pinion forks.
Is a castle nut A lock nut?
Castle nuts, or castellated nuts, are used in low-torque applications as a kind of lock nut. They, combined with a cotter pin, lock an assembly down. A notable example of their use is in holding a wheel bearing.
How to Remove and Replace Your Buffer Tube
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AR15 Fast Buffer Tube Removal
See some more details on the topic how to remove stuck buffer tube here:
Can’t remove tight AR buffer tube [Archive] – Calguns.net
Drill a hole in the body of the tube, then use a screwdriver through that hole as a wrench to get it off. It’s worked for me before. Noobert. 05 …
Source: www.calguns.net
Date Published: 9/25/2021
View: 6353
Stuck AR buffer??? | The Outdoors Trader
Had to remove the stock and stick an Allen wrench(only thing small enough on hand) in the little hole in the end of the buffer tube, and tap it …
Source: www.theoutdoorstrader.com
Date Published: 7/5/2021
View: 4790
My buffer tube is stuck – AR15.COM
Quoted: Use a propane torch and heat the receiver where the tube threads in. The heat will not hurt anything but it will loosen the loctite.
Source: www.ar15.com
Date Published: 3/5/2022
View: 2735
How to Remove and Replace Your Buffer Tube – Wing Tactical
To remove them, push the buffer slightly into the stock to release the tension on the retaining pin that holds it in place. With your other hand …
Source: www.wingtactical.com
Date Published: 5/2/2022
View: 5216
HELP, buffer retainer stuck down – AR15 Forums
Remove your stock, then loosen the castle nut on the buffer tube, Keep your finger depressed on the buffer tube routine or pin so that it …
Source: www.ar15forums.com
Date Published: 8/23/2021
View: 6960
Buffer retainer pin stuck : r/ar15 – Reddit
Problems all started months ago when I needed to remove the buffer tube to install a sling mount latch plate.
Source: www.reddit.com
Date Published: 8/16/2022
View: 303
Buffer retainer & spring are stuck. – Glock Talk
I wanted to remove the buffer and spring, and they will not move. … Use a propane torch on the buffer tube but I wouldnt go nuts holding …
Source: www.glocktalk.com
Date Published: 6/22/2021
View: 6274
Magpul CTR stock stuck on buffer tube….Need to Remove.
I usually use a screw driver to depress one se of the metal stud. Make sure the locking mech. isnt engaged then give the stud a nice little …
Source: www.firearmstalk.com
Date Published: 7/18/2021
View: 4684
Buffer sticking out causing upper to get stuck – AR15Armory
The buffer tube is not screwed in far enough, it needs to hold the pin in & not the buffer. Take out the buffer and spring & screw in the tube …
Source: ar15armory.com
Date Published: 6/19/2022
View: 8075
Can’t remove tight AR buffer tube [Archive]
View Full Version : Narrow AR buffer tube cannot be removed
RogueSniper I’m trying to remove the stock buffer tube from a Colt Lower and install my Vltor Milspec. It’s stuck, I can’t even move it. I have the following tools that I used:
Guntec USA AR wrenches
Model 1 AR Vise Block
hair dryer
propane burner
Butane Micro Torch
wrench
Strap Wrench (from Sears)
If it has Loktite on it then I figured the heat would loosen it up. Has anyone tried the Kroil solvent to loosen the Loktite? What else could be causing it to stick and prevent me from detaching the hose?
diginit Ouch, heat should do the trick, but if you just heat the wire it expands inside the receiver and makes it tighter. You would have to heat the receiver on the outside, which can discolor or disfigure it. Try the oven with just enough time to heat the receiver and not the tube. Did you use red or blue locktite? I can understand why it took hold. Next time use only blue locktite on the castellated nut to keep it from loosening, not on the receiver to hose connection.
There’s another way. But it would mean cutting the pipe about an inch from the receiver. Then use a hacksaw blade to cut a few grooves on the inside to relieve the pressure, being careful not to cut the threads in the receiver and twist out the tube.
I wouldn’t recommend this unless you’ve done it before.
If you have a vise, slide a 3-foot piece of pipe (a pry bar) onto the wrench handle to increase torque. This gives you more power with less effort. Just be careful not to break the receiver.
CHS Drill a hole in the body of the tube and then use a screwdriver through that hole as a wrench to loosen it.
It has worked for me before.
Noobert I’ve used a duct locking pliers before to good effect although it completely destroyed the pipe
CHS I’ve used a channel locking pliers before to good effect, although they completely destroyed the pipe
It’s a standard tube. Goodbye forever 🙂
RogueSniper Did you use red or blue locktite? I can understand why it took hold. Next time use only blue locktite on the castellated nut to keep it from loosening, not on the receiver to hose connection.
It’s the factory buffer tube. I can’t understand why they would put Loktite on it?
I’ve used a duct locking pliers before to good effect although it completely destroyed the pipe
It’s a standard tube. Goodbye forever 🙂
I think the same, but I don’t want to destroy the hose, if it doesn’t come off then I’d have bigger problems. I need to find a heat gun. What temperature does it take for Red Loktite to soften (worst case scenario)? There was red on the threads when I removed the front pivot screw, but it only took a determined few minutes of turning the screwdriver before it came loose, and it came off fairly easily.
If you have a vise, slide a 3-foot piece of pipe (a pry bar) onto the wrench handle to increase torque. This gives you more power with less effort. Just be careful not to break the receiver.
I feel all the bottom torque when I put pressure on the pipe. Damn COLT!!!
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b20/TheSpaniard/Joke%20Images%20etc/nooooooo.jpg
kendog4570 Red Loctite releases at around 425-450 F. I doubt there are any on a factory pipe. The red stuff on the pivot bolt isn’t threadlock, it’s more like a nylon patch material to keep the parts from vibrating apart.
I use a GI type combination wrench with a 1/2 inch pry bar. Secure the lower section in a large, solid, well-padded vise and apply an even force to the bar. Keep one hand on the wrench where it grips the pipe to prevent it from popping off. Try not to load the tube sideways or twist it off its axis. Instead of using the magnet well block, reach the whole thing deeper in the padded vise (being careful not to crush it) and brace it on the tube ring area. Don’t pull it into the vise so hard that it crushes it, but tighten to catch and support it. You can even fill the trigger well with tight-fitting pieces of wood or plastic (nylon or delrin) for extra support.
Hope that helps.
ken
CHS There shouldn’t be a commercial tube on a factory Colt.
Someone added it later.
RogueSniper Red Loctite releases at around 425-450 F. I doubt there are any on a factory tube. The red stuff on the pivot bolt isn’t threadlock, it’s more like a nylon patch material to keep the parts from vibrating apart.
I use a GI type combination wrench with a 1/2 inch pry bar. Secure the lower section in a large, solid, well-padded vise and apply an even force to the bar. Keep one hand on the wrench where it grips the pipe to prevent it from popping off. Try not to load the tube sideways or twist it off its axis. Instead of using the magnet well block, reach the whole thing deeper in the padded vise (being careful not to crush it) and brace it on the tube ring area. Don’t pull it into the vise so hard that it crushes it, but tighten to catch and support it. You can even fill the trigger well with tight-fitting pieces of wood or plastic (nylon or delrin) for extra support.
Hope that helps.
ken
Good advice. I doubt the factory overwound the pipe. I’ll be gentle with it. If it won’t let go, I’ll go to a gunsmith as a last resort.
RogueSniper shouldn’t be a commercial tube on a factory Colt.
Someone added it later.
It’s original, I’m the first and only owner. I will attach a caliper to check dimensions. I just want to replace the A2 with a Vltor EMOD.
CHS It is original, I am the first and only owner. I will attach a caliper to check dimensions. I just want to replace the A2 with a Vltor EMOD.
OOOOOOHHH ok.. you said commercial.
Commercially implies a carbine tube. Commercial vs Milspec.
There is only one A2 tube.
RogueSniper Really? Didn’t know that. I just put bullets in it and shoot it! 😀 When it stops working I just grab my secondary camera and keep shooting until all the bad guys are gone. Just thought it was commercial as it is a Colt A2 Target Sporter. I’m still plodding through my AR training. 😛
ar15barrels Drill a hole in the body of the barrel and then use a screwdriver through that hole as a wrench to loosen it.
It has worked for me before.
savages!
I’ve never needed more than heat to break Loctite and sheer leverage on a proper wrench to loosen a castle nut from the stake.
ar15barrels Really? Didn’t know that. I just put bullets in it and shoot it! 😀 When it stops working I just grab my secondary camera and keep shooting until all the bad guys are gone. Just thought it was commercial as it is a Colt A2 Target Sporter. I’m still plodding through my AR training. 😛
You must specify what TYPE of core sleeve you are working with…
http://ar15barrels.com/tech/stocks.jpg
RogueSniper You need to specify what TYPE of wire sleeve you are working with…
http://ar15barrels.com/tech/stocks.jpg
I have the one on the left, A2.
ar15barrels I have the left one, A2.
Then use a heat gun or torch to bring the receiver bridge to about 350 degrees and then use a wrench on the two flats on the back end of the tube.
Of course, this happens after you’ve pulled the stem off the tube.
Don’t lose the disassembly pin, detent and spring as they will be loose at the bottom once the shaft slips off!
CHS I’ve never needed more than heat to break Loctite and sheer leverage on a proper wrench to loosen a castle nut from the stake.
One guy brought a lower one with an A2 pipe attached with out-of-spec threads. Instead of taking his wrench back when he encountered difficulties installing it, he carried on. The pipe was almost part of the bottom one, it was that bad in there. It wasn’t even threaded more than about halfway.
We heated it up, put in some penetrating oil and did whatever we could to remove the tube without too much damage. Unfortunately the guy had pretty much mangled the flats by the end and due to the out of spec threads (way too thick) it got stuck there.
The drill was the only way 🙂
ar15barrels A guy brought in a lower with an A2 pipe attached with out-of-spec threads. Instead of taking his wrench back when he encountered difficulties installing it, he carried on. The pipe was almost part of the bottom one, it was that bad in there. It wasn’t even threaded more than about halfway.
We heated it up, put in some penetrating oil and did whatever we could to remove the tube without too much damage. Unfortunately the guy had pretty much mangled the flats by the end and due to the out of spec threads (way too thick) it got stuck there.
The drill was the only way 🙂
You need a lathe chuck to grip round parts.
Even when they’re not attached to a lathe, they’re wonderfully handy things.
diginit The A-2 pipe can be more difficult to remove due to the flange. A tight seal is created between the flange and the bridge. If it was over tightened the threads could drag a bit making removal really difficult. Personally, I would listen to AR-15 Barrels’ advice. A VERY knowledgeable CG’er.
I hope you see a panoche when you fix it!
freonr22 op i have a heat gun in san jose tomorrow if you like fyi
RogueSniper: Maybe I’ll take the offer. I’m digging around to see if I have a heat gun at home. I’ll PM you tonight.
diginit are you coming out yet?
RogueSniper Not yet. I bought a heat gun from Home Depot today. I will remove all traces of oil from the pipe and bridge. Then I start low, 200F, on the tube and slowly heat it towards the buffer threads. I’ll try the wrench when it gets warmer. The heat gun has multiple settings, 200, 500, 750, etc.
I’ll try tomorrow morning.
Barabas What happens when you heat metal? It expands.
Heat the bridge, not the tube.
Place an ice pack on the tube while heating the bridge if you’re feeling perky.
ar15barrels What happens when you heat metal? It expands.
Heat the bridge, not the tube.
Place an ice pack on the tube while heating the bridge if you’re feeling perky.
This.
And rise hot and fast.
Don’t mess around with the low settings.
If you heat it up slowly, the heat will transfer and you won’t get anywhere.
If you heat it up quickly, you’d be better off concentrating the heat on just the bridge.
RogueSniper Okay, no more running around. The temperature settings on the heat gun (ryobi) are 200, 500, 800 and 1000. I tried this morning. I’ll try again later tonight.
tacticalcity Sounds like they used RED LOCTITE. If you are not careful you could damage the bottom part.
I once broke the wing off the bottom one that holds it in place while trying to get a trigger guard out. Boy oh boy was I mad at myself. These bottoms are more fragile than you might think. I didn’t do anything unusual, had the right tools, and didn’t use more force than normal. Als pin just wouldn’t come out, and the bottom one gave instead.
The point is, make sure you REALLY want that buffer hose out there if it takes that much effort as there’s a chance you’ll ruin your lower section in the process. Better spend the money on a second lower one and if you have two you’ll still have to spend the money because you broke the first one (Colts can’t be replaced once you’re in CA).
RogueSniper Sounds like they used RED LOCTITE. If you are not careful you could damage the bottom part.
The point is, make sure you REALLY want that buffer hose out there if it takes that much effort as there’s a chance you’ll ruin your lower section in the process. Better spend the money on a second lower one and if you have two you’ll still have to spend the money because you broke the first one (Colts can’t be replaced once you’re in CA).
I’m starting to think the same. This morning I used the heat gun at 200F and just heated the tube and bridge. I didn’t want to get impatient, but the bridge just didn’t get hot enough. I tried the 500F setting for about 5 minutes, maintaining a constant motion to avoid overheating and damaging the finish or metal. It definitely felt hot. I tried the AR Wrench but it still doesn’t wobble. I could hear the vise block squeaking from the pressure and I could see the bridge flex. When I get home tonight I want to try again. I have doubts. :confused::(
Maybe it’s just not worth cracking or destroying my RAW just to exchange the stock. I will reassemble it and leave it original. Time to start shopping for 80% and start over.
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Stuck AR buffer???
I assembled this carbine last weekend using a new buffer tube and a used spring and buffer I had. Pulled the charging handle back and the buffer and spring are left in the tube? Pointed it down and giggled it and the bolt falls free. Had to remove the stem and put an allen wrench (the only thing small enough on hand) in the small hole at the end of the buffer tube and tap it with a hammer to loosen the spring. Tried it a few times, got stuck every time.
Pull another buffer and spring from another weapon, same thing.
The guy who gave me the hose said he would replace it so tonight I bought a new hose, spring and bumper. THE SAME, STUCK!
What are the chances of getting 2 bad buffer tubes or am I missing something???
thanks for every contribution,
Ox.
How to Remove and Replace Your Buffer Tube
With its fully modular platform, the AR-15 is one of the most versatile weapons on the market. Popular with shooters across the country, this light, accurate, and reliable weapon is highly customizable. AR-15s are easy to work on once you know the steps, and there are many aftermarket upgrades you can install at home with basic tools. One of the most common upgrades that AR owners seek is the buffer tube and spring.
Why remove and replace an AR-15’s buffer tube?
The buffer assembly sits behind the Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) in the stock of your gun. When you fire, the bolt drives the buffer and spring into the buffer tube to absorb recoil. This spring then pushes the BCG back into place to pick up the next round. If you plan to change the length of your buttstock, change from a fixed to a collapsible buttstock, install a sling adapter, or replace your factory components to improve performance, you will need to remove your buffer tube.
Steps to remove the buffer tube
Every time you disassemble your gun, make sure you have an empty magazine and visually make sure there is nothing in the chamber. Make sure your workspace is clean and big enough for you to work comfortably.
1. Remove the buffer and buffer spring
After disassembling your gun into the upper and lower receivers, look at your lower one. All AR-15s have buffers and buffer springs loaded into the buffer tube, and these parts must come out before you disassemble your buttstock. To remove them, push the bumper slightly into the shaft to release tension on the retaining pin holding it in place. With the other hand, press down on the retaining pin while you guide the bumper and spring out of the bumper tube, then set them aside.
2. Remove the buttstock
Between the buttstock and the receiver are the detent spring and detent – tiny parts that can quickly escape you if you’re not careful. When removing your buttstock, you should apply some pressure to the spring until you are ready to catch it and set it aside. The steps for stock removal depend on whether you have a fixed or positionable setup:
Fixed buttstock: If you have a fixed (non-collapsing) buttstock on your AR, you will need to use a flathead screwdriver. Search the gun’s butt plate for a screw. If you don’t see one, check if you need to remove a cover or lid first. When you are ready to unscrew your buttstock, use your other hand to press the stock against the housing to keep the screw in. Once the shaft is loose it should slip off allowing you to catch and hold the detent and spring.
Collapsible Buttstock: To remove a collapsible stock, you will need a castle nut wrench or a gunsmith’s tool. Instead of a bolt, use your wrench to unscrew the castle nut — a large nut that sits where the shaft connects to the bottom. As you loosen the nut, hold the bolt locking plate (the washer between the nut and your rifle) to hold the locking pin. After loosening the nut, you can slide the locking plate back to remove the spring and release the buttstock.
3. Remove the buffer tube
With the stem removed, your buffer tube is ready for removal. Get a tight grip, loosen yours with your hand and that’s it. When replacing a buffer tube, first check if your down tube uses commercial or mil-spec components—military buffer tubes measure 1.146 inches where the stem slips on, while commercial tubes measure 1.170 inches. The stem and buffer tube must be the same grade to fit and function properly.
Recheck your calipers to ensure you have the correct size buffer tube for your stock, then align the threads and tighten, being careful not to over tighten. You can now replace your buffer, buffer spring and shaft.
Replace and upgrade your buffer tubes with Wing Tactical
At Wing Tactical we stock a wide range of buffers, buffer tubes and springs to upgrade your AR-15 buffer assembly and improve your weapon’s function. If you need help choosing the right components for your gun, email us today.
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