How To Reset A Scope To Factory Zero? Best 51 Answer

Welcome to Optics Trade debates. In each episode we talk about a different topic and try to answer the most common questions we get about it. Today we are going to talk about zero stop in scopes.

How to zero an oscilloscope

When a scope is zeroed to a certain distance, typically 100m, the user resets the turret so that the zero on the turret is set to zero. Then the user always knows when the scope is zeroed at 100m. The zero stop stops the turret when it reaches the preset distance.

On some scopes, the zero stop stops the turret rotation a few clicks below zero. This gives the user the ability to choose from the default zero. But in most cases it stops at zero.

This is a great feature for people who shoot at long ranges.

Want to know which oscilloscopes have zero stop?

Watch our video Zero Stop Riflescopes

Rifle scopes with zero stop

Zero stop was not a common feature in the past, and most hunting scopes today do not have it either. But it is used on most tactical and many scopes.

Zero stop is a necessity for premium scope manufacturers.

Interested in tactical and zero stop scopes?

Zero Stop Towers

A few years ago, many scopes had a zero stop that was set manually by the user with small metal inserts. The problem was that it wasn’t adequately fixed and it was always a few clicks below zero. That wasn’t a good approach.

The zero stop is set in the turret with hex head screws on most rifle scopes.

We would like to thank you for your time. If we haven’t answered all of your questions on this topic, please leave a comment below or send us an email. If you found this video useful, please subscribe to our channel.

products mentioned

Rifle scopes: https://www.optics-trade.eu/en/riflescopes/shopby/zero_stop_conf-yes.html

LDP did a great job of explaining what FrankAZ was saying, as did TheIceman.

The term “zeroing the scope” can be confusing. Zeroing aligns your aim point with the point of impact. You’re trying to make sure the shot hits where you have the center dot/cross (you are at zero mils in the center). Any scope, FFP or SFP, should aim the center dot at the point of impact, regardless of the magnification for zeroing. The center does not change. So you can choose any magazine you like. As mentioned above, I like to do it at the highest point so I get the best point of aim.

Zeroing is different than adjusting your mil lines for alternate distances. This is a different step than zeroing. That depends on your scope and what magazine you like to shoot from. Also remember that not all SFP crosshairs are set equal. Many are not set to max. I only have one set to maximum and others are all set less. You have to explore your scope to find out. On FFP scopes it doesn’t matter since the breakpoints are the same at all magnifications (5 mils at 5x is the same as 5 mils at 50x). Again choose a magazine you like.

Hope this helped.

We all have them. Gun safe queens. Those rifles with scopes that sit in the gun closet for years, maybe even decades, without seeing sunlight. There may even be unmounted scopes on the shelf, patiently waiting for a rifle. Do these scopes go bad with age?

Scopes are precision instruments. In most cases, the quality of construction, the amount of physical abuse, and the care these instruments receive will determine their life expectancy. High-quality riflescopes should last for many years without problems, even with regular use and proper care.

Understanding the workings and construction of your scope is critical to operating it at peak efficiency for many years to come. As with most other precision instruments, the better the materials and construction, the longer you can expect a scope to last. You should measure the lifespan of a scope in years or even decades.

Why scopes fail

In general, rifle scopes do not fail due to age. Scopes usually fail mechanically. These failures are often the result of mishandling or wear and tear associated with normal use of the scope. In this article, I will address some of the most common mistakes that riflescopes suffer from.

Failures of the erector system

The most complicated part of any scope is the build system. The erector are the internal mechanical parts that are adjusted by the side and elevation turrets to change the aim. Think how small and precise these parts are and still fit in this 1″ aluminum tube and withstand 300 Win Mag recoil.

Add to this the wear and tear these parts often endure as you make adjustments and corrections to the point of aim over many years of shooting. Every time a scope is adjusted, these small parts of the erection system are stressed and experience metal-to-metal wear. As with any mechanical device, this type of wear is cumulative and will eventually fail.

seals

Almost every rifle scope has seals that protect the sensitive internal parts of the rifle scope. In general, building a scope includes these steps.

After assembling the scope, the scope is attached to a vacuum pump that evacuates the air from the scope.

The manufacturer removes as much air as possible from the inside of the scope. Most companies use dry nitrogen gas to refill the hose. The dry nitrogen gas prevents the scope from fogging and keeps the internal parts of the scope dry.

Ports in scopes are sealed using a variety of methods, including rubber O-rings, Teflon gaskets, and other methods. Because many of the openings in a rifle scope allow for the interaction of moving parts, these seals can fail under normal use.

Seals can also fail as the scope is subjected to shock and recoil. Seals around the lenses can suffer from such stresses.

If your scope starts to fog up or you notice water droplets in the scope, a seal failure is usually the cause. Many better scope manufacturers will inspect your scope, replace seals if necessary, and refill your scope with dry nitrogen for a nominal fee. Having your scope serviced by the manufacturer can add many years to its lifespan.

shock and recoil

We all feel the effects of recoil on our bodies when we fire our guns. The punishment that a large caliber hunting rifle inflicts on your shoulder is amplified many times over by the internal parts of your scope. It’s no wonder that many riflescopes suffer internal failures in the build system or optical glass after the shock of many repeated recoils.

Generally, shock damage occurs from the sudden g-forces as the weapon recoils and then stops. These high g-forces manifest themselves in several specific areas of scope.

On some scopes, the seals around the lenses and turrets will become damaged. The high levels of vibration caused by recoil can eventually damage the seals, which can cause them to leak.

The sensitive parts of the erector system, which are used to adjust the windage and elevation of your rifle scope, have to withstand repeated loads of all kinds. Every shot from your rifle transmits G-forces that can eventually cause metal parts to fatigue and fail.

The reticle mounts can easily detach and cause the reticle to wander or even disappear from your scope. The recoil can damage the reticle mounts on some scopes, rendering the scope unusable.

Mechanical errors can occur on the oscilloscope housing. If the scope tube is not properly mounted and supported on the rifle, it can twist and eventually break at the joints or come loose.

Like most mechanical damage, these problems occur without warning. Generally, rifle shooters who have suffered this type of damage to a scope do not report any warning signs of imminent failure. You may not be able to easily see the error by looking at the oscilloscope. It is often necessary to carry out some diagnostics. If you have questions about the integrity of your scope, a return trip to the manufacturer for service is your best option.

The Oops Factor – Accidental Damage

Even the most cautious hunter or competitive shooter can suffer from the whoops factor. Those unexpected little disasters that can ruin a hunting trip or put an end to a competition happen without warning.

Unfortunately, these accidents are often beyond our control. Anyone who goes hunting gives their rifle and scope into the hands of strangers and prays that everything will go well. You do your best by packing your rifle and scope in the best possible cases, but even then things happen. If you can’t see or control your rifles and scope, an unforeseen accident can seriously shorten a scope’s lifespan.

How do you ensure a long service life for your scope?

In general, to ensure the long life of your scope, you should look for the same things that you look for in a quality optical instrument. Things I am considering include:

Manufacturer’s Reputation and History – Nothing says quality, reliability and performance like what other shooters and hunters say about a manufacturer. The Internet has made it possible to gather data on the performance of almost any product from real-time users. Scopes are no different. A few minutes spent doing a little research can speak volumes about what to expect from a scope.

Nothing speaks louder about quality, reliability and performance than what other shooters and hunters say about a manufacturer. The Internet has made it possible to gather data on the performance of almost any product from real-time users. Scopes are no different. A few minutes spent doing a little research can speak volumes about what to expect from a scope. Don’t buy features you don’t need – Every feature added to a scope increases the likelihood of something going wrong. Simple scopes with single magnification are inherently the most reliable. Variable magnification ranges increase the complexity of the internal components. Parallax adjustments, diopter adjustments, and illuminated reticles bring more opportunities for error. Unless you really need those extra options, keep your scope as simple as possible.

Every feature added to a scope increases the likelihood of something going wrong. Simple scopes with single magnification are inherently the most reliable. Variable magnification ranges increase the complexity of the internal components. Parallax adjustments, diopter adjustments, and illuminated reticles bring more opportunities for error. Unless you really need those extra options, keep your scope as simple as possible. Assemble and Install Your Scope Properly – An improperly assembled scope can allow the stresses of repetitive shooting to adversely affect the operation of the scope. Quality mounts and following the manufacturer’s recommendations provide secure mounts that can help protect your scope from damage.

An improperly mounted scope can allow the stresses of repetitive shooting to adversely affect the operation of the scope. Quality mounts and following the manufacturer’s recommendations provide secure mounts that can help protect your scope from damage. Protect your scope when not in use – Lens caps and scope socks are great ways to protect your scope when not in use. When transporting a valuable rifle and scope combination, hard cases are the best choice. Make sure the protective interior of a hard case doesn’t put undue stress on your scope or its parts.

Scopes can last for years with a little care. I have a pair of 10x binoculars with 50mm lenses that belonged to my wife’s grandfather. Her grandfather was an avid hunter and marksman. Based on the wear and tear on the body of these binoculars, I’m sure he used them regularly.

The test of time

I recently pulled these binoculars out of their leather case. The woven neck strap was damaged and untrustworthy. The lenses were dusty and the binocular housing was dirty. Looking through this 70+ year old optical device, I was amazed at the clarity and sharpness of the images. I quickly adjusted the eyepieces to my prescription and was rewarded with beautiful views of a New Mexico mountain valley.

I have carefully cleaned the lenses and metal body of these binoculars. I found a new leather neck strap commensurate with the age of these binoculars and replaced the rotten braided strap. I now have a pair of fine binoculars that ride proudly in our trailer. In my eyes the quality of these binoculars has not deteriorated or deteriorated in 70+ years.

Proof of quality and care

Any good quality scope that is properly cared for should have the same lifespan. I know hunters who are still shooting with a rifle and scope combo 20 and 30 years after mating.

These aren’t hunters cutting their gear. These rifles and scopes have been used on bear hunts in Alaska and moose hunts in Montana. The conditions these scopes have endured are about as extreme as you can imagine.

The telling points of these experiences are the quality of the scope and the care that these scopes and rifles receive on a regular basis. These hunters and shooters initially made good choices and understood how to care for a rifle and scope to ensure reliability and longevity.

Our pick for the longest lasting brands of scopes

There are certain manufacturers and brand names that stand out from the crowd. The riflescope brands that routinely get the best reviews are:

Schmidt & Bender – This German optics company has a long history of building precision riflescopes. Many Schmidt and Bender scopes made in the early 20th century continue to provide accurate rifle shooting in the 21st century. Schmidt and Bender are at the forefront of Scope design and manufacture. You pay for the quality, but your scope will provide accurate shots for generations to come.

This German optics company has a long history of building precision riflescopes. Many Schmidt and Bender scopes made in the early 20th century continue to provide accurate rifle shooting in the 21st century. Schmidt and Bender are at the forefront of Scope design and manufacture. You pay for the quality, but your scope will provide accurate shots for generations to come. Leupold – Ask most shooters and hunters in the US what their top three scopes are and you can bet Leupold will be in that mix. Leupold is considered by many to be the leading optics manufacturer in the United States. Leupold designs, manufactures, and assembles its riflescopes in the United States and provides warranty and repair services to its customers.

Ask most shooters and hunters in the US what their top three scopes are and you can bet Leupold will be in that mix. Leupold is considered by many to be the leading optics manufacturer in the United States. Leupold designs, manufactures, and assembles its riflescopes in the United States and provides warranty and repair services to its customers. Vortex Optics – Vortex Optics is the newcomer in the optics world. However, the quality of their scopes and the reliability built into their designs have become almost legendary. Combine the quality and durability of these scopes with the Vortex Optics No Questions Asked guarantee and the result is an undeniably attractive package. I am a big fan of Vortex Optics products and many of my rifles use Vortex optics.

Many other manufacturers make incredibly good scopes that will last for many years with a little care and maintenance. Don’t discount an oscilloscope because it’s not on this shortlist. Do your research and make your decisions. You might discover the next addition to our list for us.

An investment in quality pays off

Much like my wife’s grandfather’s binoculars, investing in the future can be made without knowing what’s going to happen. I am sure that the thought of someone using their binoculars 70 years in the future was the last consideration when purchasing these binoculars.

I know that passing this scope on to my children or grandchildren is low on my list of priorities when choosing a scope. However, if you choose wisely and make good decisions, there is no reason why a scope cannot become an investment in the future and a working family heirloom.

Shooting in from a bench pad

Zeroing in from a stable sitting position

A useful target to aim for when viewing an eight-shot group that requires sight adjustment to shift the average point of impact to the left.

This five-shot group requires sight adjustment to move the average point of impact up and to the left. This four-shot group requires sight adjustment to shift the average point of impact to the right and slightly higher. This group of four shots does not require sight adjustment, but a larger number of shots could confirm preliminary indications that the group may be slightly left of center.

For ranged weapons such as firearms and artillery pieces, zeroing or zeroing is a preliminary or corrective calibration of the sight to allow the projectile (e.g. bullet or grenade) to be placed at a predictable impact location within the sight image. The principle of aiming is to shift the aiming line until it intersects the projectile’s parabolic trajectory at a certain reference point, so that when fired in the future (assuming reliable precision exists), the weapon will repeatedly hit where it aims at identical distances from that designated point.

Because when using a telescopic sight, the crosshair lines are geometrically similar to the X and Y axes of the Cartesian coordinate system, with the reticle center being analogous to the point of origin (i.e. coordinate [0,0]), the designated aiming point is designated as zero, and aiming is therefore also referred to as zeroing. A sight that stays true to its designated zero after repeated use is said to “hold zero”, while one that doesn’t is said to “lose zero”.

The iterative process involves firing a group of shots from a cool gun barrel, then determining the geometric center of the shot pattern, adjusting the sights to move the aiming point to that group center, and repeating the process until other groups consistently focus on center the center target point.

grouping [ edit ]

Bullets fired from a firearm immobilized in a device such as a man rest may not always land in the exact same spot. Some of these discrepancies can be caused by wind conditions or ammo differences, but individual firearms can have different abilities to place bullets consistently. Projectile impact points at a measured distance from the muzzle of the firearm are classified as shot groups or groups. Each group consists of a certain number of shots, with increasing number of shots providing greater statistical certainty. Each group is described by the circle of smallest diameter perpendicular to the axis of projectile motion, including the point of impact of all projectiles in that group.[1] A firearm that places bullets within a 25 mm (1 inch) diameter circle at a target 100 yards (91 m) from the muzzle can be described as 1 inch groups at 100 yards. Groups can alternatively be described by the angle of dispersion. A 1″ group at 100 yards is approximately one minute of arc, indicating that a firearm is expected to place bullets within a 2″ group at 200 yards or within a 3″ group at 300 yards . [3] Terminology can be confusing. Groups should not be confused with the patterns traditionally used to describe the positioning of a specific percentage of the multiple bullets from a single shotshell.

Reasons for sighting in [ edit ]

Firearms carried by individuals may be repositioned from one shot to the next. Most firearms have a sight to help the shooter position the firearm so the bullets hit the desired spot. The precision machining and pre-distribution testing used in the manufacture of modern firearms has increased the likelihood that these sights will be correctly positioned. However, several factors can cause bullet placement to be different than expected:

Sights may have become loose or moved from their intended position since the last test shot. [4]

Optional scopes may have replaced the original iron sights.

The firearm may have been zeroed for a different target range.

The shooter may be using different ammunition than in previous tests. [5]

The shooter may involuntarily move the firearm while pulling the trigger. [5]

The shooter may hold the firearm in such a way that unanticipated movement during recoil is possible.

The shooter may have visual impairments that produce an unexpected visual image.[5]

Goals [ edit ]

Sighting a firearm is an important test of the firearm user’s ability to hit expected targets with available ammunition. Images or silhouettes of intended targets are less suitable for sighting than are high-contrast shapes compatible with the style of sighting on the firearm. Contrasting circles are often used for aiming at targets. Some targets include a faint grid for easier measurement of horizontal and vertical distance from the point of aim. These circle targets are particularly useful for peep sights, aperture sights, dot reticles, and bead grains; and are most useful when the apparent diameter of that sighting feature matches the apparent diameter of the contrast circle at the selected range to the target. Firearms with bladed sights and notched rear sights can reduce vertical dispersion by using a sight image that visually balances the target’s contrasting circle on a horizontal sighting surface such as the top of the blade or a horizontally notched surface.

procedure [edit]

The diameter of the group for a single sight setting is irrelevant to the zeroing process as long as all bullet positions can be measured to determine the average impact point versus point of aim. Larger diameter groups indicate a reduced hit probability on smaller targets at this range and suggest that groups with a larger number of shots can provide better estimates of the adjustments needed. Zeroing is most effective from a stable firing position that allows the shooter to relax while the firearm is propped on a bench support or on a sandbag or similar padding supported by a rock, log or branch.[5] Other stable shooting positions include sitting on the ground while leaning against a tree or structure and resting the firearm on one arm supported by the knees. Sights are checked prior to shooting to ensure they are securely attached to the firearm and are not loose or moving between shots. Aiming or firing single shots at a target at close range may be necessary if shots do not hit the target at the desired distance.[7] After the sights are adjusted to reliably place bullets on the target at the desired distance, multiple shots are fired to form a group for measuring average bullet placement. Each bullet position is measured horizontally and vertically from the aiming point, and the sights are adjusted to compensate for mean horizontal distance and mean vertical distance from the aiming point. After the sights are adjusted, more shots can be fired from a cool barrel forming another group to check if the sight adjustment has shifted the average bullet placement to the aiming point. Zeroing is complete when the group is centered on the aiming point. Bullets can then be fired at targets at different ranges to determine trajectory differences from the point of aim at those ranges.[8]

Fast Facts

A minute of arc (MOA) is an angular measurement.

A MOA is 1/60th of a degree.

1 MOA spreads approximately 1″ per 100 yards. (actually 1.047″)

1 MOA is a different size at different distances, 8″ at 800 yards is still only 1 MOA.

100 yards 200 yards 300 yards 400 yards 500 yards 600 yards 700 yards 800 yards 1″ 2″ 3″ 4″ 5″ 6″ 7″ 8″

Understanding Minute of Angle (MOA) – Rifle Shooting Technique

Tips on using MOA

1. Always think in 1 MOA increments no matter what distance you are shooting from.

For example, imagine you are shooting at 300 yards. You know that a MOA spreads 1″ per 100 yards, so at 300 yards 1 MOA is 3″. Therefore, you should think in 3-inch increments for your calculations on this 300-yard target. This way you can easily see that 2 MOA is just 2 of those 3 inch increments or 6 inches total. And likewise, 1/2 MOA is 1/2 of those 3 inch increments, or 1.5 inches.

If you are having trouble determining the increments in your head and would rather have a formula, you can try this method. Divide the distance (in yards) you shoot by 100 and you know what 1 MOA is in inches. For example, imagine you are now shooting at 250 yards. 250/100 = 2.5. So 1 MOA at 250 yards is 2.5″.

2. Determine how many 1 MOA increments fit into the adjustment you want to make.

For example, imagine trying to set 8″ at 400 yards. You already know that this example requires you to think in 4 inch increments. Two 4″ increments (or 4″ pieces) fit into the 8″ adjustment, so you would need to adjust 2 MOA.

If you are having trouble doing this in your head and would rather have a formula, you can try this method. Divide the number of inches you want to adjust by the number of inches in 1 MOA at that distance. For example, imagine you are now shooting at 600 yards and you want to shift the bullet impact by 18″. You know that 1 MOA at 600 yards is 6″ from the previous step. 18 / 6 = 3. So a 3 MOA adjustment at 600 yards will move the bullet 18 inches.

3. Think in terms of MOA and not “clicks” on your scope.

Although most retail endoscopes adjust 1/4 MOA per click, some scopes adjust in 1/8, 1/2 or even 1 MOA per click. Once you know how many MOA you need to adjust, you can make the adjustments to your particular scope. For example, if your scope adjusts in 1/4 MOA per click and you want to adjust 2 MOA, you need to be aware that 4 clicks adjust 1 MOA, so you need a total of 8 clicks.

formulas

(Distance to target in yards) / (100) = inches per MOA at that distance

(number of inches of adjustment required) / (inches per MOA at that distance) = MOA adjustment

(number of clicks per 1 MOA on scope) x (MOA adjustment) = adjustment in clicks on scope

Note that if you insist on using 1.047 inches per 100 yards instead of 1 inch per 100 yards, you need to multiply (inches per MOA at that distance) by 1.047.

examples

Problem Answer If 1 MOA is 1″ at 100 yards, how many MOA is 2″ at 200 yards? It’s still only 1 MOA. Remember that a MOA is an angular measurement that increases with distance. 1″ at 100 yards and 12″ at 1200 yards are both 1 MOA. If your bullets hit 16″ to the left at 800 yards and ignore any wind effects for now, how many MOA do you need to adjust and in which direction? 2 MOA to the right. Remember that the first step is to think in 1 MOA increments no matter what distance you’re shooting from. Since 1 MOA at 800 yards is 8″, you should think in 8″ increments on this problem. The next step is to think about how many increments of 1 MOA fit into the distance you want to set. Two 8″ increments fit into the 16″ increments we want to adjust, so we will adjust 2 MOA. Since the bullets hit to the left, we want to adjust them to the right. How far does a 10 MOA setting at 50 yards move the bullet impact in inches? 5 inches. If 1 MOA at 100 yards is 1″, then 1 MOA at half distance is half that size and 1/2″. Likewise, 1 MOA at 25 yards is 1/4″. So if you think in 1/2 inch increments and add up 10 of those 1/2 inch increments, you get 5 inches. If your scope is set in 1/4 MOA (it may say 1/4″ per 100 yards on the scope), how many clicks on the scope does it take to set 10″ at 200 yards? 20 clicks. 1 MOA increment at 200 yards is 2″. 5 of these 2″ increments will fit in the 10″ adjustment needed so a 5 MOA adjustment is required. 4 clicks on the area correspond to 1 MOA. So if all 4 clicks are 1 MOA, you would need 5 of those 4 click adjustments, or 20 clicks total.

Would you like to find out more? For more information from Ryan Cleckner see: What is MOA?

Your effective firing range is determined by a number of factors; the cartridge, your shooting skill and the height adjustment of your scope. Ensuring that the scope you are interested in is able to adjust its elevation enough to achieve your desired ranges is a crucial step. Unfortunately, this step has often been overlooked when looking for the right riflescope.

altitude adjustment

It’s an important step, but not complicated at all. I’ll walk you through it step by step. By the end of the article you will have an accurate enough assessment of the scope’s capabilities with your current rifle.

Accurate enough? Yes, you don’t have the exact height adjustments possible without firing a few downrange. However, you will have enough educated guesswork to know if the scope in question will shoot the desired distances. In addition, you will also find out how far your cartridge can still effectively knock down big game – all from the comfort of your own home.

I will use my personal rifle build throughout the article as an example of how to check how much I can effectively adjust my elevation. My rifle is a basic Ruger American® Rifle Predator, chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor, 22″ barrel with a twist rate of 1:8.

All of this information can be found online at the Ruger website and I am confident that you will find the appropriate stats for your rifle. If not, we have videos showing how to find this data.

A Zeiss Conquest V4 4-16×44 scope is mounted on my rifle. This particular scope has 80 MOA of elevation adjustment.

Side note: I highly recommend the Conquest V4. When it comes to a quality scope with great glass and an incredible amount of elevation adjustment, the V4 is hard to beat. The price point is just an added bonus.

Determining the ballistic data of your cartridge

Most factory ammunition has the required data printed directly on the box. If not, it will be available online with a little digging. The most important variable you need for this check is the muzzle velocity of your cartridge.

For my rifle build example, I will be using Hornady’s 6.5 Creedmoor 143 ELD-X, which has a muzzle velocity of 2725 ft/s.

Just a few more data points

With just a few more data points, we can accurately estimate at what range your scope and cartridge can effectively adjust elevation. The final measurements you need are rear sight height (in inches) and barrel twist rate.

How to measure the viewing height

There are several methods to measure your viewing height. The easiest method is to measure from the vertical center of your barrel to the vertical center of your scope’s objective lens with a tape measure. This method is the least accurate, but it will get the job done.

Take your time with this measurement and try to be as accurate as possible. You should land anywhere between 1.5 and 1.75 inches. I like to measure 3-5 times and average it out.

barrel twist rate

Hopefully the keg you have installed has the data available online on the manufacturer’s website. If not, don’t worry – see the video below for a very simple method of measuring twist rate.

GeoBallistic App

You can do this part manually or move with the times and use an app. Manual implementation is beyond the scope of this article.

My personal favorite is called GeoBallistics, it’s free for a single rifle build which is all we need today. It’s available for both Android and Apple devices, so anyone can join.

Put everything together

Now that you have GeoBallistics installed and all your data (muzzle velocity, elevation, and barrel twist rate), it’s time to do some calculations! Don’t worry, you don’t have to calculate anything – the app does the work.

Using and entering data into the GeoBallistics app

Create a new rifle – The free version allows you to create a single rifle’s datasheet. For our purposes, that’s all we need.

Choose Your Ammo – An extensive library of factory-loaded ammo is available. I selected Hornady ELD-X and the app automatically entered the cartridge’s weight, drag function and ballistic coefficient.

Enter Your Collected Data – In the rifle section, enter your collected data. Depending on your scope, choose either MOA or Mils. We use a standard 100 yard zero.

Input Energy and Velocity Threshold – I personally use 1,000 ft/lb for my minimum required energy threshold and 1120 ft/s for my velocity. It’s not about whether the riflescope is able to adjust itself at a distance, but whether my cartridge still works at all at this distance.

Save and done

Once your data is entered, GeoBallistics calculates a Data On Previous Engagement (DOPE) chart for your current rifle build. You may notice that some rows are highlighted in gray, red, and yellow. These are quick indicators of the following statements:

Gray Highlight: The distance the bullet hits the vital zone without adjusting the elevation.

Red Highlight: The desired energy level for the bullet to reach the target.

Highlighted in yellow: The desired speed to be maintained on the target.

I want to pay attention to the red mark. That’s the maximum distance my bullet can travel that still contains enough kinetic energy to kill a mule deer. Looking at my chart, the range is 721 yards, which means I need to adjust 17.8 MOA.

Can your scope adjust that far?

Once again we must visit the manufacturer’s website. Looking at the Conquest V4, I found that the external elevation turret dials up to 80 MOA – more than enough adjustment for my targets. A quick look at my DOPE chart, 80 MOA setting coupled with my cartridge choices will allow me to shoot just under a mile. It probably goes without saying, but unless you’re ringing for steel, I strongly advise against this shot.

What if my rifle scope cannot be adjusted sufficiently?

Most modern scopes with an external elevation turret have sufficient adjustment for shooting at 400-500 yards. If you already own a scope and find that it’s not set up enough to get to those distances, all hope is not lost.

There is an option to install a 20 MOA Picatinny rail which, if configured correctly, will give you an additional 20 MOA of elevation adjustment.

Another option is to use the crosshairs. If you’re lucky, your reticle will have built-in elevation adjustment in the form of hash marks that can add significant range. Be sure to read the differences between

First and second focal plane riflescopes

to determine exactly how much adjustment your BDC reticle adds.

Understanding scope turrets can drastically improve your long range skills.

Think of your scope turrets as translators. The towers themselves don’t change where the bullet hits. However, with properly adjusted rifles, they help the shooter process information to know where the bullet will strike. For the most part, this information is contained by adjusting the reticle up, down, and side to side until the scope and bullet path become one. Read below to find out how to best use the translation and start understanding scope turrets.

Understand scope turrets

The two most important turrets are the windage and elevation scales. Once your scope is properly mounted on your rifle, you will need to adjust your windage and elevation knobs to zero your rifle. When looking through the scope, the side knob is on the right side of the scope and adjusts the reticle left and right. Likewise, the elevation knob is on top of the scope and adjusts your reticle up and down. Both turrets must be matched to zero a rifle. Once the rifle is zeroed, each turret can be adjusted to account for every single shot.

The Impact Ballistics program allows you to customize your cartridge and reticle, and even the atmospheric conditions in which you shoot. With the ability to print out a dope chart based on the information you enter, you can carry your ballistics data with you for amplified long-range effects.

JL demonstrates the easy and accurate way to aim in your scope.

elevation

When a bullet is fired, its velocity causes the cartridge to resist the earth’s gravitational pull, causing it to fly towards a target instead of falling straight to earth. As wind resistance slows the orb’s flight, it begins to sink more rapidly as Mother Earth tightens her grip.

This is most common when shooting at long ranges. As a result, the shooter must do one of two things. The easiest and quickest solution is to keep the reticle over the target to compensate for the falling bullet. Even with a lot of experience, it’s no more than an educated guess.

The more accurate solution would be to use a range finder. This allows you to measure the distance to your firing position and set your turret to match that range. In this case, the shooter would move the reticle lower within the scope, so he or she would then have to raise the barrel higher to get the reticle on target. Likewise, the shooter should know his scope’s calculations to know how many turns to rotate the dial to correspond to specific distances.

air resistance

Windage works in a similar way, but left and right instead of up and down. While gravity pulls a cartridge down and is counteracted by aiming higher, wind can cause a cartridge to move left or right to varying degrees.

For snipers, drag can affect a round impact as much or more than gravity. The first thing the shooter needs to determine is the wind direction. When shooting from a longer range, the wind can blow in many different directions over different parts of the trajectory. Looking at visual cues like flags, trees, grass, etc. or using wind indicators can be very helpful in determining wind direction. A wind speed indicator is also required for those who want ultra-precise settings.

Once shooters know the wind direction and wind speed, they can either use “Kentucky Windage” and guess their footing to counteract the wind, or refer to a ballistics chart to know exactly how many clicks their reticle should be based on the wind direction and wind speed must move their special turn. In any case, conditions should be reassessed if the wind speed changes.

Knowing the distance makes it quick and easy to make precise elevation adjustments in the field.

parallax

The third turret is the parallax adjustment dial. It is mounted on the opposite side of the scope from the side window. Parallax occurs when the reticle and target are not on the same focal plane. This causes the reticle or target to appear blurry. While the parallax adjustment may seem like a focusing knob of sorts, accuracy can be severely compromised if the reticle and target are not focusing on the same plane. In other words, a clear sight image is just the by-product of aligning your reticle and target in the same focal plane.

Before adjusting the parallax, make sure your reticle is in focus. Mount your rifle and look at a plain background like a white wall or the sky. Don’t constantly look through the reticle. Just look through the reticle in 1-2 second lads. Your eye muscles will try to adjust to the visual image and otherwise give a distorted result. If the reticle is not completely clear, pull the scope down and slightly adjust the focus knob on the scope’s eyepiece. Then offer another quick look and repeat the process until the crosshair is sticky sharp.

With the reticle in focus, you look through the sight at your target. Adjust the parallax adjustment dial until the target is also in focus. Get off the rifle and double check the crosshairs against a plain background to make sure it’s still sharp. When both reticle and target are focused, they focus on the same plane of focus.

Learning the math and ballistics of a round can be a lot of fun and a lot of work. For a shortcut, consider a set of our custom turrets. We gather data relevant to your specific rifle and load and design a range of turrets specifically matched to your rifle. Then all you have to do as a shooter is choose, point and shoot. Click here for more information.

Target knob settings in 0.1 mil increments

by Major John L. Plaster, USA (ret)

A long range shooter recently asked me to provide the aiming knob settings so he can properly set the elevation knob on his new Millett LRS scope which has 0.1 mil per click increments. He wanted to be able to shoot to 1000 yards and had looked on the internet but couldn’t find the data anywhere. Rather than providing the data for just him and his load, I’ll explain how you can calculate it yourself, for each load and caliber of rifle cartridge.

Why 0.1 Mil Target Buttons?

The 0.1 mil increment is a fairly recent development driven by a desire to synchronize a shooter’s mil-dot reticle with their elevation and windage settings. Think of it this way: if a spotter looks through a mil-dot reticle and sees a shooter’s bullet miss, they don’t need to translate a correction from mils to inches or centimeters – they just call it mils, and the shooter clicks off the change quickly and with great precision. It’s faster and more accurate than “estimating” or translating from one type of measurement to another and then forcing the shooter to interpret how to set their scope. A mil is 3.6 inches at 100 yards; therefore 1/10th of this, 0.1 mil or one click, equals 0.36 inch – about one third of an inch – at 100 yards. That’s pretty close to the standard ¼-inch increment that we find on most scopes. But I’m just citing that as background information – the great value of 0.1 mil increments is that you’re in sync with your mil-dot reticle. You don’t have to constantly translate back and forth from mils to inches.

Calculation of 0.1 mil increments for target buttons

To calculate elevation and windage using mils, you must first learn what a mil is at different distances – for example, since a mil is 3.6 inches at 100 yards and it’s an angular measurement, at 1000 it gradually becomes 36 inch expands meter. At a minimum, you need to know exactly what that one mil angular width is at hundreds of yards, as shown here.

A mil equivalent at hundreds of yards

100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 3.6″ 7.2″ 10.8″ 14.4″ 18.0″ 21.6″ 25.2″ 28.8″ 32.5″ 36.0″

A lot of shooters want to calculate settings more finely, in 25 yard increments, so it’s necessary to see what a mil equals in 25 yard increments, which I posted below. At hundreds of yards the measurements are the same as above – I’ve just broken them into more precise 25 yard increments.

One mil equivalent in 25 yard increments, 100 to 1000 yards

100 yards 1 mil equals 3.6 inches

125 yards A mil equals 4.5 inches

150 yards A mil equals 5.4 inches

175 yards A mil equals 6.3 inches

200 yards, one mil equals 7.2 inches

225 yards, one mil equals 8.1 inches

250 yards, one mil equals 9.0 inches

275 yards A mil equals 9.9 inches

300 yards 1 mil equals 10.8 inches

325 yards One mil equals 11.7 inches

350 yards One mil equals 12.6 inches

375 yards A mil equals 13.5 inches

400 yards 1 mil equals 14.4 inches

425 yards A mil equals 15.3 inches

450 yards One mil equals 16.2 inches

475 yards A mil equals 17.1 inches

500 yards 1 mil equals 18.0 inches

525 yards A mil equals 18.9 inches

550 yards A mil equals 19.8 inches

575 yards A mil equals 20.7 inches

600 yards One mil equals 21.6 inches

625 yards A mil equals 22.5 inches

650 yards A mil equals 23.4 inches

675 yards A mil equals 24.3 inches

700 yards One mil equals 25.2 inches

725 yards A mil equals 26.1 inches

750 yards One mil equals 27.0 inches

775 yards A mil equals 27.9 inches

800 yards One mil equals 28.8 inches

825 yards A mil equals 29.7 inches

850 yards One mil equals 30.6 inches

875 yards A mil equals 31.5 inches

900 yards One mil equals 32.5 inches

925 yards A mil equals 33.3 inches

950 yards One mil equals 34.2 inches

975 yards A mil equals 35.1 inches

1000 yards 1 mil equals 36.0 inches

All you need is the bullet trajectory data for your round, expressed in inches of trajectory at various ranges. To find your cartridge’s bullet trajectory data, search the Internet, look at ammunition manufacturers’ websites, or use an external ballistics software program. I used the Sierra Infinity V6 program to get my data. As you will see below, I first listed the distance in yards in the left column. The next column to the right lists the bullet path for the .308 Winchester, 168-gr. BTHP match charge based on a 100 yard zero. (This .308 load is the most popular used by US law enforcement snipers.) The next column lists what equals 1 mil at any 25 yard range – using data I listed above. Whatever caliber and load you calculate, always use this data for each distance. These mil measurements do not change. To ensure readers understand how elevation in mils is calculated, I’ve included parentheses (divide by) to show that at any distance, you simply take the bullet path (in inches) and divide it by the value of 1 mil divide this distance, also in inches. The result should be expressed in tenths of a mil, which is listed under Mils Yield Level. The final step is to take the altitude in mils, round it to the nearest tenth of a mil, and express it as a target knob setting. To keep the setting clear I’m expressing it as mils and clicks so I know exactly where to set my knob.

Study this data for a moment, and then let’s look at an example.

.308 Winchester, 168 gr. BTHP match at 2600 FPS distance

[yards] bullet path

[inches] 1 Mil a this Yardage Yields Elevation in mils Set to 0.1 Mil Target Knob 100 Zero (divide by) 3.6″ Zero Zero 125 -0.46 (divide by) 4.5″ 0.1 Mil 0 Mil / 1 click 150 -1.31 (divide by ) 5.4″ 0.24 mil 0 million / 2 clicks 175 -2.57″ (divide by) 6.3″ 0.40 mil 0 million / 4 clicks 200 – 4.24″ (divide by) 7.2″ 0.58 mil 0m / 6 clicks 225 -6.35″ (divide by) 8.1″ 0.78 mil 0m / 8 clicks 250 -8.91″ (divide by) 9.0″ 0.99 mil 1 million / 0 clicks 275 -11.94″ (divide by) 9.9″ 1.20 mil 1 million / 2 clicks 300 -15.47″ ( divide by) 10.8″ 1.43 mil 1M / 4 clicks 325 -19.51″ (divide by) 11.7″ 1.66 mil 1M / 7 clicks 350 -24.09″ (divide by) 12.6″ 1.91 mil 1M / 9 clicks 375 -29.24″ (divide by) 13.5″ 2.16 mil 2M / 2 clicks 400 -34.97″ (divide by) 14.4″ 2.42 mil 2M / 4 clicks 425 -41.33″ (divide by) 15.3″ 2.70 mil 2M / 7 clicks 450 -48.34″ (divide by) 16.2″ 2.98 mil 3 million / 0 clicks 475 -56.04″ (divide by) 17.1″ 3.27 mil 3 million / 3 cl cks 500 -64.46″ (divide by) 18.0″ 3.58 mil 3 mil / 6 clicks 525 -73.63″ (divide by) 18.9″ 3.89 mil 3 mil / 9 clicks 550 – 83.60″ (divide by) 19.8″ 4.22 mil 4 mil / 2 clicks 575 -94.41″ (divide by) 20.7″ 4.56 mil 4 mil / 6 clicks 600 -106.10″ (divide by) 21.6″ 4.91 mil 4 mil / 9 clicks 625 -118.71″ (divide by) 22.5″ 5.27 mil 5 mil / 3 clicks 650 -132.29″ (divide by) 23.4″ 5.65 mil 5 mil / 6 clicks 675 -146.90″ (divide by) 24.3″ 6.04 mil 6 million / 0 clicks 700 -162.58″ (divide by) 25, 2″ 6.45M 6M / 5 clicks 725 -179.40″ (divide by) 26.1″ 6.87M 6M / 9 clicks 750 -197.40″ (divide by) 27.0 ” 7.31 mil 7M / 3 clicks 775 -216.64″ (divide by) 27.9″ 7.76 mil 7M / 8 clicks 800 -237.19″ (divide by) 28.8″ 8.41 mil 8M / 4 clicks 825 -259.11″ (divide by) 29.7″ 8.72M 8M / 7 clicks 850 -282.46″ (divide by) 30.6″ 9.23M 9 mil / 8 clicks 900 -333.71″ (divide by) 32.5″ 10.26 mil 10 mil / 3 clicks 925 -361.74″ (divide by) 3 3.3″ 10.86 mil 10 mil / 9 clicks 950 -391.46″ (divide by) 34.2″ 11.44M 11M / 4 clicks 975 -422.93″ (divide by) 35.1″ 12.04M 12M / 0 clicks 1000 -456.22″ (divide by) 36.0″ 12.67M 12M / 7 clicks

Using the data above, let’s determine the target button setting for 775 yards. The Bullet Path data told you that the .308, 168-gr. Sphere is -216.64 inches below your zero point at 775 yards. Next you see that 1 mil equals 27.9 inches at 775 yards. Dividing the Bullet Path, 216.64, by what is 1 mil at that distance, 27.9 inches, gives 7.76 mils. So to be accurate at 775 yards, set the aiming knob to 7 mils plus 8 clicks because you rounded that 0.76 mils down. (Remember that with this aiming button, one click is 0.1 mil, and it takes ten clicks for a full mil.) Remember, all of this data is theoretical – firing can be done with your scope, rifle, and ammo result in slight deviations – maybe a click or two. For even more precise elevation control settings, test fire at different ranges and refine your data. Ultimately, your target button data should be written on a 3 x 5 card, covered with clear plastic, and carried in the field for quick and accurate reference. Here’s an added bonus: you can also use this data card for precise aiming points when you need to shoot fast – but there’s a caveat.

Mil-dot reticle

If you don’t have time to set your elevation knob, use your mil-dot reticle and hold it over the reading displayed. For example, to quickly engage a target at 500 yards, simply hold 3-1/2 mils over it – which is very close to the actual 3.58 mils you calculated above. Here’s another example: At 250 yards, hold up 1 mil – that’s pretty much the 0.99 mil listed on the data card. Now here’s the caveat: you can’t keep more than 5 mils over a target with a mil-dot reticle. That’s because there are only four dots below the center of the reticle plus the edge of the thick reticle line – these are your 5 mil aiming dots to hold high. Considering the .308, 168-gr. From the BTHP data above, you can see that you can use mil holdovers up to a maximum of 600 yards (4.91 mils), as each additional distance requires more than 5 mils of holdover. That’s a limitation – but at shorter ranges you can make very fast shots. A 0.1 mil target button may seem complicated at first – but once you use it and get used to it, you’ll really appreciate its speed and precision.

Since World War I, the US and British military have used the metric system when conducting combined operations with the French, who used the metric system. The maps were made by the French and the term “kilometer” became part of the US military lexicon after World War I.

The term “click” is derived from the word “kilometer”. So one click equals one kilometer.

Since World War II and the creation of NATO, all maps created and used by NATO members have conformed to NATO standardization agreements. The Military Grid Reference System (MGRS) is the mapping system standard used by NATO military personnel to locate points on Earth and can pinpoint a location on Earth to the nearest meter.

But among members of the military, the term “click” is a standard measure of distance traveled. When a soldier radios “We are 10 clicks south of your position” it means they are 10 kilometers or 6.2 miles away.

Most foreign maps have contour lines, also measured in meters.

History of the word “click”

Some military historians believe the term originated in Vietnam with the Australian infantry. As history goes, infantry soldiers navigated by bearing (compass direction) and measured distance by pace (this was of course before GPS devices).

To keep track of distance, one or two soldiers were assigned to count their steps. Approximately 110 steps on flat land, 100 steps downhill or 120 steps uphill correspond to 100 meters. The soldier tracked each 100-metre lot by moving the Australian L1A1 rifle’s gas regulator one mark.

After moving it 10 marks (1000 yards), the soldier signaled the section commander with hand signals and then indicated a 1000 yard move by raising the rifle and rewinding the throttle with a flick of the thumb, resulting in an audible ” click”. ”

Non-Military Uses of “Click”

In military parlance, the term “click” (written with a “c” instead of a “k”) is used when a weapon, e.g. B. a gun, is targeted. For most guns, a “click” is equal to one minute of arc, or in other words, one inch per hundred yards. So if you nudge the rifle’s location settings with one click, the point of impact will change by one inch for a target 100 yards away, two inches for a target 200 yards away, and so on.

For detail orientation, a minute of arc (MOA) at 100 yards is actually a bit more than an inch (There are 360 ​​degrees in a circle and each degree is divided into 60 minutes. If we go to the nearest 1/100th of an inch, at 100 In yards, a degree measures 62.83 in. A MOA, 1/60th of that, measures 1.047 in.), but rounding works for quick calculations. The term comes from the clicking sound made by the sight adjustment knobs when rotated.

Latitude and longitude vs. grid coordinates

Some American charts still use the latitude and longitude system and do so on water.

The United States military uses the MGRS, which is measured in meters, and latitude and longitude are measured in legal miles.

Find out the difference: MOA, MRAD/MIL and CM

Basically, the world is divided into two different measurement systems: imperial and metric. While the imperial system works in inches and MOA, the metric system uses centimeters and MRAD.

Which turret system is the best: MOA or MRAD? That’s not easy to answer because it has a lot to do with what you’re used to. And that very individually and personally. From our experience, however, the metric system has some significant advantages. Such as the simplicity of arithmetic: it is easy to convert the units, ie. e. from meters (unit of shooting distance) to centimeters (unit of turret adjustment) – you just have to move the decimal point. For example, at a shooting distance of 300 m, one click of an MRAD click value setting corresponds to 0.03 m or 3 cm. That kind of simplicity is all you want when faced with a tough task like long-range precision shooting. For this reason you will also find many more MRAD than MOA specifications in our product portfolio.

Schmidt & Bender offers very precise and repeatable turret adjustments for both systems. Whether MOA or MRAD click value: all are trusted and tested by many professional shooters around the world.

MOA

MOA stands for Minute Of Angle and stands for 1⁄ 60 degrees. 1 MOA is 1.047″ at 100 yd (2.9 cm at 100 m) and is suitable for those familiar with imperial measurement. Some may also be familiar with the so-called Shooters MOA (SMOA), which is exactly 1″ to 100 yd. However, Schmidt & Bender uses only real/genuine MOA (2.9 cm at 100 m/1.047″ at 100 yd) turrets and reticles. We offer the following MOA-based turrets: ¼ MOA for Single Turn (ST) or Double Turn turrets (DT) and ⅛ MOA for Multi Turn turrets (MT).

MRAD or MIL

MRAD stands for milliradians (abbreviation MIL) and stands for 1⁄ 1000 radians. 0.1 MRAD/MIL is 1 cm at 100 m and is suitable for users of the metric system. But if you take it exactly, 0.1 MIL (NATO) is actually 0.98 MRAD. However, Schmidt & Bender uses MRAD as well as MIL for accurate 1 cm at 100 m. Due to the simplicity of the metric system, MRAD is usually the standard for military and LE scopes. For this reason it is also preferred by most tactical marksman shooters.

CM

Schmidt & Bender also uses cm markings and numbers on some turrets. These turrets are marked with either “1 click = 0.5 cm” or “1 click = 1 cm”. The click value is always related to 100 m. In general, 0.1 MRAD corresponds to 1 cm at 100 m and 0.05 MRAD corresponds to 0.5 cm at 100 m. For better orientation, we use cm markings and numbers on some turrets. We do this to make the tower markings and numbers more recognizable by using fewer digits. For example: The tower MT II only has the number “5” at the tenth click (10 x 0.5 cm = 5 cm) and therefore the tower itself is marked “1 click = 0.5 cm”. If it were in MRAD we would have to use the number “0.05” which is three digits longer but expresses the same click value. The finest click value in our range is 0.25 cm at 100 m and is only available for the 12-50×56 PM II.

Please note

No matter which system you prefer: Please make sure that you have a suitable tower and reticle measurement system in your rifle scope in order to avoid a source of error. So please always keep turrets and reticles either truly MOA or MRAD based.

About our towers

Sub-Zero Clicks

All of our elevation towers come with Sub-Zero Clicks except for the Posicon and Classic adjustments, Classic BDC, ST for ShortDot, DT27, DT35 and MT. The sub-zero clicks are clicks that are below “0” and allow you to quickly react to weather conditions such as barometric pressure or if your POI has changed due to the use of a silencer or night vision goggles without re-zeroing.

hunting towers

Most BDC hunting turrets are offered in cm or in MRAD, since most of our hunting reticles are also based on MRAD. Only our 3-21×50 Exos is offered with MOA hunting turrets with corresponding MOA reticle.

To the towers

PM II and competition towers

The PM II and Competition towers are divided into Gen I and Gen II towers. Generation I turrets are still state of the art and have proven themselves in police and military units around the world for decades. However, the Generation II turrets reflect ongoing technical and mechanical development and therefore include more detailed technical features.

To the towers

*Scopes Field is supported by readers. If you shop through links on my site, I may receive an affiliate commission.*

Shooting is a simple hobby, but when it comes to finding a reticle for a scope, things can get complicated. And nothing exemplifies this better than the MOA vs. MRAD debate.

So what are these things and which is better?

Both are units of measure for measuring angles, but that’s where the similarity ends. We’ll break down the differences between each system.

So get ready, the school is in session.

MOA vs. MRAD: why do we care?

Suppose you go on a hunting trip with your friends.

You’ve done your research, read the best guide to riflescopes, and you’re good to go. But then your buddy starts talking in meters and your MOA turrets adjust in yards.

His numbers don’t match your turrets, your turrets don’t match your crosshairs, and now your target has jumped to a different state.

The problem: He was using MRAD while you were using MOA.

MOA and MRAD are basically two different measurement systems.

Scope aiming uses the reticle and turrets together to get the most accurate shot possible. The turrets change the position of your reticle while your reticle provides a point of aim.

Your turret clicks and the diamonds on your reticle can use one of two different scope alignment systems: MOA or MRAD.

You can have the best long range scope on the market, but if you don’t see it with either system, it’s useless.

If you’re looking for help choosing between scopes, here’s the only guide you need to read.

What is a MOA scope?

MOA stands for arcminutes; a system based on degrees and minutes. This type of angle measurement is used to calculate the range to a target and the MOA turret correction for the projectile’s trajectory.

Basically, the math breaks down like this: There are 360 ​​degrees in a circle and 60 minutes in a degree for a total of 21,600 degrees.

You can find your MOA measurement by multiplying the distance in yards by 1.047 and then dividing by 100. You can thank the ancient Egyptians and Mesopotamians later.

At 200 yards, one MOA is 2.094 inches. At 1,000 yards, 1 MOA is 10.47 inches, and so on.

For those of us who aren’t Einstein, the easiest way I’ve found is to use a quick reference conversion table. This way you won’t miss your prize money while doodling math problems.

However, MOA scopes are not a perfect system.

1 MOA is often used at 100 yards (91.4 meters), but you have to calculate with 1.05 MOA at 100 yards. Up to 100 yards there is no problem with a 1 in 100 comparison, but when shooting longer distances you are 5% off base and this could mean missing a shot.

This isn’t a problem if you only shoot at medium ranges. Read my 4×32 scope guide for more details.

I use a MOA reticle on my AR-15 A2 after removing the front sights for extra cool guy points. I’m going to show you how to remove the AR-15 A2 sights here.

What is an MRAD scope?

MRAD stands for milliradian (or MIL for short) and was originally developed for artillery in the late 19th century. It remains the method of choice for military and law enforcement operations to this day, where it is commonly referred to herein as MIL dot reticle.

Based on a radial line, a unit of angular measurement equal to approximately 57.3 degrees, a milliradian is one-thousandth of a radian.

This system does not make a perfect circle like the MOA system. Instead, milliradians divide the circumference of a circle into 6.28 equal sections of 57.3 degrees each on an MRAD oscilloscope.

Thus, every circle has a circumference that is 6.28 rads long. Then each radian is divided into another 1,000 parts, which is called a milliradian.

When calculating MRAD in a MIL-based oscilloscope, call it MIL, which is 3.6 inches at 100 yards (91.4 m using the metric system) equals 1 MIL.

I tried an MRAD scope on my M1A, which happens to have the best M1A scope mount ever.

MOA vs MRAD: Which is Better?

The short answer: neither. The argument is as old as time, but it’s really just the shooter’s preference for the scope.

The battle between MOA and MRAD boils down to a difference in the formatting of degrees of angular measurements. It’s fancy math terminology that basically asks if you’re using yards or meters.

Technically, the 1/4 MOA clicks are slightly more accurate than the 1/10 MIL, but the MIL values ​​are a bit easier to communicate.

Reference cards with MIL are easier to read because they are only marked with 2 numbers, while the cards with MOA are marked with four numbers. We could go back and forth all day, but you get the point.

If you like other comparisons check out my Nightforce SHV vs Vortex PST guide.

Which do you need?

Choosing between the MOA or MRAD system requires some self-reflection, so buckle up.

If you usually think in meters or centimeters, it’s easier to calculate distances with an MRAD. If you usually think in yards or inches, then MOA should be your number one choice.

And if you don’t calculate distances, it doesn’t matter between MRAD and MOA. Do your thing, both types are equally effective for medium and long range shots.

Another thing to consider is that you also need to consider your hunting partners, teammates, friends, etc. You want to have a common language so you can communicate with each other without having to do conversions between the two systems.

Or you could be an absolute rebel and have a scope for each system and swap it out in the field for the best quick-detach scope mounts. Live your life to the fullest.

Above all, choose the same system for your turrets and scope reticles. I have a guide on first focal planes versus second focal planes to help you choose the right reticle as well.

Despite all the math, the decision between MOA and MRAD isn’t that important. Clicks with a MOA turret are slightly more precise than clicks with a MIL turret, but at the end of the day it’s a style choice between scopes.

FAQ

A MIL, or linear MOA equivalent, increases proportionally with distance. With the MOA and MIL systems, you correct the position of the reticle inside the scope based on wind deflection and the trajectory of the bullet at the range of the target.

We use a square as this is applicable to a bullet’s trajectory. Angles are independent of other units of measurement, and therefore simple formulas can be stored and used by the shooter in ballistic case tables and wind calculations.

The MOA (Minute of Angle) measurement system is by far the most popular among shooters in the United States.

MOA

There are 360 ​​degrees in a circle and each degree is divided into 60 minutes. Therefore, “arc minutes” is a circle divided into minute increments (total: 21,600 minutes). If we round to the nearest hundredth of an inch, 1 degree at 100 yards is 62.83 inches. A MOA, 1⁄60th of that, measures 1.047 inches. This is usually rounded down to 1.04 to simplify the math.

A minute of arc, commonly used as a measure of group size, target size, or shot spread, is 1.047 inches per 100 yards, but we round down to 1 inch. To calculate the MOA at any distance, multiply 1.047 by the distance in yards and divide by 100.

There is another measure known as Shooter’s MOA (SMOA) – which rounds down the true measure of MOA from 1.047 inches per 100 yards to a much easier to calculate measure of 1 inch per 100 yards. That’s fine for short ranges, but at 1,000 yards, SMOA is too imprecise as it’s 10.5 inches, not 10 inches.

For simplicity, when using SMOA here, a single minute is roughly 1 inch at 100 yards, so shooters get used to thinking of MOA in inches. 2 MOA at 100 yards is 2 inches, 1 MOA at 400 yards is 4 inches, and so on. It’s great to use angles because as you can see they increase proportionally with distance.

As long as the shooter stays at 100-yard strides, the math is pretty easy in your head.

MOA scopes are often adjustable in 1/4 (0.25) MOA increments (about 1/4 inch at 100 yards).

You will often hear the term MOA in long-range shooting. MOA is often used to describe the size of targets, so a target at 500 yards and a size of 2 MOA (usually width) means the target is 10 inches wide. 1 MOA at 500 yards would be 5 inches, so 2 MOA would be 10 (2×5) inches. However, if you are using a MOA reticle in your scope, you are using MOA as a measure, not inches, and you are using the (undervoltage) markings in the scope reticle that can be used to magnify targets or make adjustments. The same goes for a MIL scope reticle.

MIL/MRAD

MILs or milliradians are a unit of measurement dividing radians in a circle. A radian equals 57.3 degrees, with 6.2832 (π x 2) radians in a circle. There are 1000 milliradians in 1 radian and therefore 6.283 milliradians (or mils) in a circle. Thus, 1 MIL at 100 yards is 3.6 inches and 1 MIL at 100 meters is 10 centimeters. At 100 meters, 1⁄10 mil equals 0.9999 centimeters. In practical terms, 1⁄10 mil is equal to 1 centimeter at 100 meters.

A mil is so large that it is usually divided into tenths to make precise adjustments to your scope turret.

1 mil corresponds to 1 yard in 1,000 yards and 1 meter in 1,000 meters.

It doesn’t matter if you use the metric or US scale and that is their beauty.

Milliradian oscilloscopes are often adjustable in 1/10 (0.1) mil increments. At 100 yards, a 0.1 mil click is 0.36 inches and a full mil is 3.6 inches (practically, 1⁄10 mil is 1 centimeter at 100 yards).

MILs, like MOA, are a measure of angles, and the length it represents increases proportionally with distance. For example, 1 mil at 100 yards is 3.6 inches and 7.2 inches at 200 yards.

Comparison of MILs and MOA

There are 21,600 MOA in a circle, so a little quick division determines there are 3.4377 MOA per mil. At 100 yards, 3.4377 MOA equals 3.599 inches (3.4377 x 1.047). Rounded up, a mil equals 3.6 inches per 100 yards.

• To convert MILs to MOA = MULTIPLY BY 3.5 (The exact calculation is Mils x 3.438 = MOA)

• To convert MOA to MILs = DIVIDE BY 3.5 (The exact calculation is MOA / 3.438 = mils)

You may need to be able to do this conversion when shooting a spotter with a MIL scope while using a MOA scope. Converting between the two can be crucial to making the right adjustments. Ditto if you’re using commercial ammo, which may have data on how your ammo falls (at a given mileage) in a unit of measure your scope isn’t set up for, and you don’t have time to use a ballistic case table to switch to your reticle and turret type.

Undervoltages and turrets

Subtension, the measurement of a section covered by a reticle at a given distance, is also important, especially when trying to estimate distance or calculate wind or trajectory by keeping the target off. Like MILs and MOA, the subtension is an angle measurement.

What you need to look out for is a mix of different reticles and turrets in terms of MILs and MOA. For example, you shoot with a mil-dot reticle (which uses MIL dots as measurements) and a MOA scope with 1⁄4 MOA clicks. This is where you may need to convert what you see through the scope in MIL measurements into MOA clicks (on the scope turrets) – that means doing the math at a time when you’re likely to need speed and a quick adjustment. It’s a hassle you don’t need, so try matching the crosshairs to the turrets.

This gets worse when using a second scope that has different dimensions in the reticle depending on the magnification set. First plane of focus (FFP) reticles maintain the same relationship to the target regardless of magnification. Second focal plane (SFP) reticles cause the voltage/ratio to change as magnification is changed. Second image plane reticle are typically calibrated to work at the maximum magnification of the scope (see the Scope section for more details). For focal plane (FFP and SFP) details, see the Choosing Optics chapter.

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Bring away:

Once again, be aware of your mission and decide whether you want to “speak” meters/MILs or yards/MOA. Learn both systems and always remain able to communicate with your fellow shooters. Be careful not to mix your reticle and turrets between both systems.