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Table of Contents
How many yards of fabric do I need to reupholster a Bergere chair?
Supplies: Around 6 yards of fabric (I ordered 10 yards and have a lot left)
What does Bergere chair mean?
Definition of bergère
: an upholstered armchair of an 18th century style having an exposed wood frame.
What is an antique Bergere chair?
A bergère is an enclosed upholstered French armchair (fauteuil) with an upholstered back and armrests on upholstered frames.
How much does it cost to reupholster a chair seat?
Average Chair Upholstery Prices
On average, it costs between $200 to $1,000 to reupholster a chair. Upholstery fabrics cost between $30 to $60 per yard and labor charges are about $50 to $100 per hour.
Wikipedia
Reupholstering can be the perfect way to salvage your favorite comfy armchair or breathe life into an old dining room set.
Upholstering the chairs in your household can even be a great way to refresh a tired or outdated room. You can even change the look of an entire room simply by updating the fabrics, patterns, and textures that decorate it.
Reupholstering seems like a great way to freshen up your home. So what’s holding you back? You may be wondering how much it costs to reupholster a chair. You may even be debating between the cost of a reupholstery or a new purchase.
This article provides a comprehensive overview of the costs associated with reupholstering different types of chairs in your home. After reading this you will be sure whether you want to re-upholster or not with a good idea of how much it would cost.
How do you reupholster a chair without removing old fabric?
Bear in mind that if there’s only one cover on the cushion, you can recover the chair without even removing the old fabric; simply lay the new fabric over the old. When dealing with a cushion that has more than one cover, however, take off the top layer by drawing out the staples that hold it in place.
Wikipedia
While you can hire a professional for these types of repairs, it can be far easier — yet just as transformative — to salvage the chairs yourself and replace their seat covers with new fabric. Even a novice DIYer can complete this project in an afternoon and get great results.
Whether you want to learn how to reupholster a dining room chair cushion or the cushion on your favorite heirloom entryway bench, this guide will show you how to restore chair seats for a fresh new look.
Here are a few things to know before you start, including a list of materials and step-by-step instructions on how to reupholster a chair seat.
Before you start reupholstering your chairs
When you’re excited, it’s easy to throw yourself headfirst into a project. Before purchasing your materials, make sure the chair you are reupholstering is worth restoring. Sometimes it’s cheaper to replace chairs that aren’t structurally sound than to repair and reupholster them. However, older furniture is usually housebroken and built to last, which is why it’s usually worth reclaiming decades-old furniture.
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Choose the right fabric
Before you shop, get an idea of what type of fabric you need, what budget you’re working on, and if you need additional fabric protection so you can choose the material that fits your aesthetic and lifestyle.
Choosing the right upholstery fabric will ensure your seats last longer and provide comfort and style to complement your home. Each type of upholstery fabric has its own charms, benefits and limitations. Here are some natural and synthetic fabric options to consider when restoring your chairs:
Cotton: A natural and breathable fabric with great durability that resists both abrasion and fading. It’s prone to stains and catches dust and dirt, making it safer for homes with no children or pets.
A natural and breathable fabric with great durability that resists both abrasion and fading. It’s prone to stains and catches dust and dirt, making it safer for homes with no children or pets. Linen: The fibers in this fabric come from the flax plant and are a popular and affordable upholstery material. This fabric is smooth, soft and strong, does not pill and is also antibacterial and abrasion resistant. However, this material does not withstand rough use.
The fibers of this fabric come from the flax plant and are a popular and affordable upholstery material. This fabric is smooth, soft and strong, does not pill and is also antibacterial and abrasion resistant. However, this material does not withstand rough use. Wool: This eco-friendly fabric is durable and strong. It is insulating, resists pilling and staining and can withstand heavy use. This is a less common upholstery material, possibly due to a higher price tag than other types of fabric.
This eco-friendly fabric is durable and strong. It is insulating, resists pilling and staining and can withstand heavy use. This is a less common upholstery material, possibly due to a higher price tag than other types of fabric. Leather: As the longest-lasting and probably the most durable upholstery fabric, leather is a comfortable and stylish option. It works beautifully with lots of use. This elegant material is a great fabric for homes with pets as it won’t cling to pet hair and won’t soak up spills (or odors).
As the longest-lasting and probably the most durable upholstery fabric, leather is a comfortable and stylish option. It works beautifully with lots of use. This elegant material is a great fabric for homes with pets as it won’t cling to pet hair and won’t soak up spills (or odors). Polyester: A microfiber material that is often mixed with other fibers, polyester offers a wide range of colors and prints. It feels soft and comfortable while remaining easy to clean. Polyester is a stretchy fabric, so it can stretch over time and look a little looser on your chair over the years.
A microfiber material that is often mixed with other fibers, polyester offers a wide range of colors and prints. It feels soft and comfortable while remaining easy to clean. Polyester is a stretchy fabric, so it can stretch over time and look a little looser on your chair over the years. Olefin: A popular synthetic fiber, durable olefin is easy to clean and withstands a lot of use (including rough usage). It looks and feels like wool but unlike wool it is water repellent. It can be used for indoor chairs but it is more common to see this fabric on outdoor furniture.
Pro tips for furniture upholstery
Restoring a chair is an easy DIY project, but if you’re tackling the project for the first time, you might want to start with chairs that have straight lines. They are easier to pad. After you gain a little experience, it’s easier to move on to more ambitious upholstery projects.
When upholstering a chair or other furniture, remember it’s never too late to reposition or reposition the fabric – just remove the staples and try again.
Here are a few more tips to keep in mind when restoring a chair:
Make the seats feel more comfortable by adding more batting or new foam under the fabric.
If you insist on using a less durable fabric because you like it, put a layer of canvas or muslin underneath to give it a little more durability.
You can reupholster old fabric as long as the new fabric is darker than the original color.
If you want to neatly cover the stapled side of the seat, add a dust cover to the bottom of the chair.
Make creases when upholstering furniture with curved edges.
For flourishes like nail heads or grommets, wrap your hammer head in cotton and secure with a rubber band to prevent the hammer from scratching the decorative accents.
If there are multiple pieces to upholster, label each piece of existing fabric that you remove so you can put the pieces back together correctly.
For larger upholstery projects, it’s beneficial to either film yourself or take photos while you take the furniture apart to give you instructions on how to put it back together.
How to restore a chair seat
Reupholstering your chairs is a low-stakes DIY project. It’s nearly impossible to ruin a chair through restoration. If for some reason following these steps doesn’t work for you, get help, take your chair to a professional, or consider covering the chair with a slipcover.
STEP 1: Measure the seat cushion.
Before you begin restoring a chair, first measure the seat cushion to determine how much replacement fabric you need. During the measuring process, make sure you have at least 3 inches of fabric left on all sides (in later steps you will work with this excess material on the bottom of the pillow).
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STEP 2: Remove the old pillow and fabric.
Using a screwdriver, remove the existing cushion from the chair frame. (This would be a good time to make minor repairs to the chair.) Remember that if there is only one cover on the cushion, you can retrieve the chair without even removing the old fabric. Just lay the new fabric over the old. However, if you are dealing with a pillow that has more than one cover, take off the top layer by pulling out the staples holding it in place.
STEP 3: Cut the new seat cover.
After laying the fabric on your work surface, cut out a piece that matches the dimensions you calculated in the previous step. If you are working with a patterned fabric (such as a floral medallion), make sure your neckline includes the portion of the pattern you want to show on the chair seat.
STEP 4: Pin the new fabric to the seat.
To attach the new cover, fold one edge of the fabric over the seat, and then pin that fabric to the bottom of the pillow, about 1 to 2 inches from the edge. From there, stretch the fabric across the top of the seat and fold the fabric over the opposite side of the cushion before basting again on the side opposite where you attached the original attachment.
After verifying that the cover is properly aligned on the pillow surface, turn the cover back over and continue basting along the edge of the underside while keeping the fabric taut (but not so tight that the weave or pattern is distorted) . If the cover stays crooked anywhere while you’re working, pop out a staple or two with your flathead screwdriver, then reattach it.
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STEP 5: Cut fabric and wrap around corners.
When you arrive at one of the corners, tack at the same time as you stretch and angle the fabric. It may take some trial and error, but eventually you’ll figure out how to attach the fabric without wrinkles. Remember there’s a quick and easy fix when you get wrinkles: just pull out a few staples, adjust the cover, and then staple again.
STEP 6: Cut off excess fabric.
You have now finished stitching the envelope. Use scissors to trim the excess fabric behind the staples, leaving 1 or 2 inches of material behind the staples. With chair seats that sit on the base of the chair, you don’t have to worry about the appearance of the underside as the underside of the cushion is not visible.
STEP 7: Install a dust cover (optional).
A dust cover is the dark fabric on the bottom of a chair that helps hide the springs or open base of a chair, making it look more professional (and preventing dust from settling in the springs). Measure the bottom of the chair and cut the dust cover fabric slightly larger than you need.
All clips should be positioned as close as possible to the edge of the anti-dust fabric.
Fold the edges of the cover under and secure the fabric with a staple in the center of each side of the seat to keep the fabric taut. Secure the dust cover by adding a staple about every inch or so around the bottom of the chair.
STEP 8: Attach piping (optional).
Also known as piping or cord, piping adds a little extra decorative element and helps hide brackets on chairs, especially those with a fixed seat.
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A long, narrow chain of fabric wraps around a cord that can be made by sewing or hot glue. Using your glue gun, start attaching the piping to the corner where your cushion will attach to the back of the chair. Make sure the glue isn’t all the way to the edge or it will ooze out. Once you have glued the piping all the way around, cut it to fit your seat.
STEP 9: Reattach the upholstered chair seat.
Once the glue has dried, place the seat on the chair frame. Line up the seat with the holes that were already there when you removed the chair seat and screw the chair pad back into place. Make sure the seat is tight, but be careful not to over tighten the screws or you risk damaging the holes.
Now all you have to do is test the chair and enjoy your handwork.
Final thoughts on reupholstering a chair seat
All this project really needs is a piece of fabric and a staple gun along with some very basic DIY tools. Now that you know how to restore a chair seat, you might be amazed at how easy it becomes to tackle your other furniture reupholstery projects and give your favorite pieces a new look, all for little more than the cost of new fabric. So go, relax and have a nice seat!
Frequently asked questions about chair reupholstery
Restoring a chair can be a very simple DIY that refreshes the look of a chair and a room. With the steps above, you can reupholster a chair even if you’ve never done it before. If you are new to furniture reclamation, you may have some lingering questions about it. Here are some answers to frequently asked questions about chair restoration.
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Q: How much does it cost to reupholster a DIY style chair?
If you’re not paying for the labor, reupholstering a chair is a lot cheaper. The biggest expense will be the fabric you choose. Synthetic fibers tend to be more durable and less expensive than natural fabrics. For the cost of fabric, upholstery, and accessories, you can typically re-upholster a typical chair cushion for less than $50.
Q: Can you reupholster a chair without removing the old fabric?
You can restore a chair with the old fabric still attached provided you know the condition of the chair. If it’s a flea market find or a second-hand purchase, it’s hard to tell if the pillow and upholstery have been exposed to moisture. In this case, it is recommended to replace the fabric and upholstery to avoid a potential mold problem.
Q: How do you re-bounce a chair?
Bouncing a chair is a little tricky, and this is usually a job for a professional. If you decide to do it yourself, make sure you buy replacement springs that match the ones already in the chair. After removing the old springs, you must attach the new springs to the webbing, angle them properly, and fasten them carefully before reinstalling the seat.
Q: How do you reupholster a non-removable chair seat?
After removing the old trim and cover, cut your fabric slightly larger than you will need to cover the seat. Fold the raw edge down to create a finished edge and staple the back of the seat in the center. Pull the fabric taut, fold the edge and pin the front, then do the same for the remaining sides. After securing, baste along each side, keeping fabric taut. Use hot glue to attach piping to cover up the staples for a finished look.
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Q: How much does it cost to retrieve a chair?
The cost of a professional upholsterer to restore a chair depends on the chair, the fabric, and the amount of work required. An upholsterer can charge anywhere from $150 to $1500 to restore a chair.
Are Bergere chairs comfortable?
They are more comfortable than dining chairs, but less comfortable than an oversized club chair. Bergere chairs are not as deep as modern club chairs, but that’s one of the things that makes them so versatile.
Wikipedia
First, let’s start with a little background. Bergère chairs are basically upholstered chairs. But not ALL upholstered chairs are bergère chairs. This style of chair originally comes from France. Bergère chairs have these three characteristics:
A tightly padded backrest
A visible wooden frame with arms, legs and a back that is often carved
Wooden frame with arms, legs and a back that is often carved. Closed padded sides below the arms
You probably have upholstered chairs, but these are worth splurging on if you come across one, even if the current upholstery isn’t your favorite.
3 reasons to own a Bergère chair
Versatility – These chairs are on a smaller scale than most modern upholstered chairs. That means they fit in more rooms. I have used mine and in every room in my house except the bathroom. They’re small enough that when you’re having guests and need extra seating that’s more comfortable than a dining chair, they’re just the thing. The smaller scale makes them easy to move. Reupholstering is like magic – These don’t need to be upholstered in strictly traditional fabrics like toille (although I have upholstered mine in toille and LOVED it). Using a modern fabric on a bergère chair can really make the chair a statement piece. Also, because they are smaller chairs, they are less expensive to reupholster. That means you can swap out the fabric every few years for a completely different look. Adds Something Old – No matter what design style you have, a mix of things old and new will add style to your home. When everything in your home looks brand new, it feels less homey. These chairs have an aged feel even when they are new.
Affordable Bergère chairs
Before you look at these chairs, ignore the fabric. I don’t know why they’re all oatmeal, but you can get other colors.
There are plenty of older ones out there if you look. Facebook Marketplace can be a great place to find Bergère chairs. You can also find them at flea markets and estate sales. Try to look beyond the outdated stuff and go for it if the price is reasonable. They can be transformed with newer cloth. Here’s an example of an older chair that has been redesigned with a new, modern fabric. You can also find them on ETSY, like this cool one. If you want to get one that looks old there are a couple of options.
I choose every product I review. I may earn an affiliate commission if you purchase through one of the product links at no additional cost to you. This income supports this site. See full disclosure.
my chair with a modern fabric
Etsy chair with modern fabric
What is the difference between a Bergère chair and an armchair?
The difference between an armchair (pronounced like foh toyuh) and bergere is the arm. With a Bergere chair, the armrest is closed, there is no free space. There is also typically an open space between the seat and the back of the chair. Bergere chairs have a slightly cozier feel due to the closed armrest.
When you’re looking for a bergere chair, you often see an armchair, just a fun fact.
Are bergere chairs comfortable?
Bergère chairs are comfortable, but NOT the kind of chair you put your feet up in and read a book. They’re more comfortable than dining chairs, but less comfortable than an oversized lounge chair. Bergere chairs aren’t as deep as modern club chairs, but that’s what makes them so versatile.
What is a French style chair?
For those of you not familiar with it, a Bergère is a chair designed in the Louis XV style, with an upholstered back and arms, and fitted with a loose tailored seat cushion. These antique French chairs typically featured wood frames that were either gilded or painted and were upholstered with fine fabrics.
Wikipedia
There is nothing quite like the perfect armchair in a living room. And since I’m generally fond of French style, I naturally love a good French chair! Bergère chairs are versatile, classic, and comfortable (which not all armchairs are).
For those of you unfamiliar, a bergere is a Louis XV style chair with an upholstered back and armrests and a loose, tailored seat cushion. These antique French chairs typically had wooden frames, either gilded or painted, and upholstered in fine fabrics.
And that’s the key for me! Today, these chairs are often upholstered in simple fabrics such as linen, ticking, or even burlap. And I love that! As I said before, I love the French style, but my take on it is a little more casual. I love the juxtaposition of a gilded armchair upholstered in plain linen. Or gold mirrors in a room with distressed furniture and a seagrass rug.
The high/low mix really appeals to me. Without that bit of nonchalance, it can feel too fussy for me. But this mix of styles, the casual with the ornate, the rustic with the elegant, is the essence of the casual chic style!
The always perfect, always versatile, French Bergère chair!
This is gold plated and one of my absolute favorite pictures! It’s absolutely timeless – you really can’t tell if this photo is 10 years old or 10 days old. Design by Renea Abbott via Veranda Magazine.
Home via Alice Lane.
Beautiful living room with a pale version of a bergère chair. By Loi Thai from Tone on Tone.
My friend Sonja’s beautiful house with a white French chair. You can find more of her inspirational home here.
And where to find them!
When I was looking for mine, they weren’t nearly as easy to find as they are now! I bought them from a local resale store, but honestly if I’d been able to find nice (and sensible!) ones like these I most likely would have bought new!
Below are some of my favorite French chairs; in different designs and styles and at different prices. Some are very cheap, others more of an investment.
You can also look for a real vintage or antique (which I almost always prefer), but sometimes there just isn’t time to buy them. They are also often more expensive than the reproductions.
Some good websites for antique French chairs include Etsy, Ebay, and 1st Dibs. I also know designer friends who find them at thrift stores or goodwill stores. But if you’re in a hurry, don’t want to be needed, or just don’t love the ‘hunt’ then one of these might just be for you!
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Click here to shop more fabulous French chairs!
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I hope this has inspired you to buy your own French chair! Let me know if there are any great ones out there that I missed!
Sheila
xo
And for even more French inspiration, check out some of these other posts below!
What is a Windsor back chair?
What is a Windsor chair? This uniquely English chair is characterised by having a thick, one-piece, wooden seat into which the legs are mortised from below and the spindles forming the back-rest are slotted in from above. However, unlike other chairs, the back legs have no connection with the chair back.
Wikipedia
Why were Windsor chairs made? In the early 18th century, the gardens of the country houses of the nobility and aristocracy changed from the formal 17th-century design to a more informal, naturalistic style. Gardens became places where tea was drunk, musical entertainment was given, and games such as bocce ball were held. Consequently, the large static seating of earlier times was unsuitable for socializing in these pleasure gardens and there was a need for portable seating. The Windsor chair’s light weight met this requirement, as seen in contemporary paintings. Pictures show that these early Windsor chairs were often painted green to make them waterproof and to blend in with a garden setting. In addition, recent research indicates that these garden Windsors were originally known as “Forest” chairs; This is probably because they were first made in Windsor Forest. Later, Forest chairs shipped up the Thames to London became known as “Windsor” chairs. In the 18th century a distinction was made between painted Forest chairs for outdoors and stained and polished Windsor chairs for indoors. Today, however, both chair types are referred to as “Windsor” chairs.
When were Windsor chairs made? The main period of Windsor chair production was the 19th century. However, the design emerged in the early 18th century, when it was thought that Windsors were often made in small workshops. The earliest known date regarding the delivery of Forest chairs is currently 1720. However, production never really stopped as Windsor chairs are still being made today. It is noteworthy that some of the early Forest chairs appear to have been exported to the American colonies, where they influenced the development of the slightly different but very popular American Windsor.
Where were Windsor chairs made? In the 18th century Windsor chair makers are known to have worked in the Thames Valley, particularly in the area around Windsor itself and Slough. Unfortunately very few manufacturers from the 18th century are known by name and inscribed chairs are extremely rare. Major furniture manufacturers such as Gillows of Lancaster are known to have supplied Windsor chairs in the 18th century and some Windsor chair manufacturers were also based in London. In the 19th century the High Wycombe area in Buckinghamshire became an important center of Windsor chair manufacture, with turned legs and stretchers often supplied by bodgers who lived and worked in the Chiltern woods. There were also manufacturers across the country, many developing Windsors with their own decorative features. For example, West Country Chairs have a three-piece arm arch and hoof-foot leg shape, distinct from Thames Valley chairs. Similarly, many Lincolnshire Windsors show a characteristic leg twist, often different from that seen in Nottinghamshire chairs. Also, unlike all other Windsors, Windsors made in Mendlesham, Suffolk have square backs. The study of these many individual and regional differences in chair design is precisely the type of research that the Regional Furniture Society seeks to do.
Additional literature, illustrations and exhibits:
Cotton, the English Regional Chairman (Antique Collectors Club, 1990)
Crispin, The English Windsor Chair (Alan Sutton, 1992)
Harding-Hill, Windsor Chairs (Antique Collectors Club, 2003)
Parrott, Observations on the Earliest Known Windsor Chairs, Regional Furniture, XIX (2005), pp. 1-19
Parrott, Forest chairs, the first portable garden seats and the probable origin of the Windsor chair, Regional Furniture, XXIV (2010), pp. 1-16
Sparkes, The English Country Chair (Spurbooks, 1973)
Wycombe Museum, Priory Avenue, High Wycombe, Bucks, HP13 6PX
How much material do I need to reupholster a chair?
You will need about 3 to 7 yards of fabric to reupholster a chair. This all depends on the type of chair. Simple dining room chairs with no arms, back, and base cushion will need 3 yards of fabric. High wing back, formal chairs will need about 7 yards.
Wikipedia
We recommend using a chair scale pattern.
So what is a “stool scale” pattern?
Designing chair scale jacquard patterns
When designing fabrics, particularly jacquard patterns for indoor and outdoor upholstery applications, several generic categories are often discussed. First, a base fabric is just that—the fabrics that often cover most of the sofa frame, chair, or ottoman.
These are often simple weaves and textures made from a variety of yarns including boucles, chenilles and other textured yarns. Many bases made at STI in Kings Mountain are woven on Dobby looms. Our dobby looms are also used to weave stripes designed to complement the colors and textures of our base fabrics. These looms are excellent for weaving bases but are very limiting when it comes to the possibility of patterns.
Revolution jacquard fabrics open up the possibilities for much more intricate, layered fabrics. When planning a “grouping” or “collection” of patterns, we often begin the process by selecting artwork for a feature pattern. The feature is often a larger, multicolored pattern with a repeat size of 6 and 3/4 inches up to 27 inches. In a sense, the trait is the “anchor” pattern of a collection, and the correlates, stripes, and bases are all created to complement the trait.
So what is a “stool scale” pattern? These patterns typically have a smaller repeat size ranging from about 2 inches to 6 3/4 inches. A stool scale pattern is very versatile. As the name suggests, it can be used to cover a side chair, but chair scale patterns are also often found on ottomans, cushions, and the occasional sofa. A well-rounded collection often features a few correlates (including a chair scale or two), a stripe, and a base fabric. Showcasing Revolution Performance Fabrics as smaller collections helps customers see what our designers envisioned from a design perspective.
We look forward to the upcoming Showtime at High Point this June. We’ve even created a small collection of different chair shed patterns that aim to be very versatile and can easily find their place in a variety of design styles. With our new line of Revolution Outdoor Performance Fabrics added to our traditional offerings, there’s a lot to be excited about!
How much fabric is needed to cover a chair?
An average club chair, for example, requires about 6 1/2 yards of fabric.
Wikipedia
With any project, your most important task will be choosing the fabric – you not only have to determine the style of the material, but also how much of it you need. Determining the amount of fabric is difficult, so it’s good to consult a professional before making a purchase. But it’s nice to be able to at least make a rough estimate and understand the factors involved — the shape of the piece, the pattern of the fabric, any extras like a skirt or piping — before you jump into a project. With fabrics ranging from $20 to $250 per yard or more, it helps to have a rough idea of how much you need before making a choice.
How to measure the yardage
The first step is to find out the overall dimensions of the project by width and length. Determine the measurements in inches. Let’s assume your project will be 36 inches tall. That’s three feet, or one yard. So this project only requires a yard of fabric. For better visualization, it’s helpful to get out some graph paper and sketch out your design. Don’t forget to include any seam allowances (for pillows), hems (for tailored pants), bindings (for canvas wall art), or any additional fabric you may need for shirring, shirring and smocking.
What if you need multiple pieces of fabric, e.g. B. for the production of serviettes, blouses or a hand-sewn quilt? Find out how much fabric you need with this formula:
The width of the fabric divided by the width of a piece equals the number of pieces that fit in the width (rounded down to the whole number).
The total number of pieces divided by the number of pieces that fit the width equals the number of rows needed.
Number of rows needed multiplied by the length of a piece gives the total project in inches.
The total length of the project in inches divided by 36 inches equals the total length needed (rounded up to the whole number).
For example, the width of the fabric is 60 inches. One piece needs a width of 32 inches. The length of one piece must be 28 inches. We need a total of six pieces. To estimate the yardage for fabric, the formula would look like this:
60 inches divided by 32 inches equals 1.875 rounded down to one.
6 multiplied by 1 equals 6.
6 multiplied by 28 inches equals 168 inches.
168 inches divided by 36 inches equals 4.66, rounded up to 5.
For this particular project we would need five yards of fabric. These calculations work for many projects including pillows, cushions, clothing, bedding, and headboards. Even if you’re comfortable with your own assessment, it’s worth getting a professional opinion: give your upholsterer a few snapshots of the piece, along with basic measurements. It’s easier than loading your chair into the car and driving to the store, and gives you peace of mind before investing in fabric.
For example, an average club chair uses about 6 1/2 yards of fabric. However, please note that this is a guideline and not a rule. Many factors – including the pattern of the fabric, the upholsterer’s work style and variations in individual pieces of furniture – can affect the yardage. “I recently made a club chair that lasted 11 yards, it was so big and bulky,” says upholsterer Tony Totillo. Totillo provided the estimates here, based on a 54 inch wide fabric with a short repeat. Specific design details unique to your piece may affect yardage.
Choosing a fabric
When you shop for fabric, you’ll find a tremendous variety of sizes, patterns, and materials – all factors that affect how much you need.
Broad
The most common width for fabrics in the United States today is 54 inches; However, 48 inch wide fabrics are found both here and in the UK, and 40 and 42 inch widths are standard for many imported fabrics, such as Indian silk. Other fabrics such as apparel textiles may be wider: oxford fabrics and gingham fabrics are often sold in widths of 60 and 72 inches. If you can, choose 54 inch wide fabric. It produces the least trimming waste, and mileage estimates assume that width.
sample
Plain fabrics are the easiest to work with: stripes, checks and other patterns need to be matched at the seams to be consistent. While this can be difficult for the upholsterer, a smaller stripe or evenly spaced plaid shouldn’t create a lot of trim waste, so you don’t have to plan for extra fabric. If you want piping in the same fabric—the cord that covers the seams—you need a lot more. “Piping on a chair with striped or checked fabric automatically adds five feet more,” says upholsterer Carl Dellatore, owner of the D&F Workroom in New York City. “Piping is always cut at an angle – a diagonal – so that it lies flat. Often you can cheat a little and get piping from excess cutting, but a stripe or check won’t look right unless it’s cut completely on an angle. “Some people choose a solid sew-in fabric to complement their patterned piece. This makes the job easier and usually saves money, since plains tend to be cheaper than patterns.
To repeat
Some patterns require additional yardage. “If you have a bouquet pattern with an 18-inch repeat, that means it’s 18 inches before you meet the next, identical bouquet,” says Dellatore. “To center the bouquet on the seat of a chair, back, and skirt, you need to trim excess fabric and adjust pattern properly.” Some patterns have very small repeats, 3 inches or less; others are as tall as 54 inches. “In general, an 18-inch repeat means you need about 20 percent more fabric; a 27-inch repeat is 40 percent more,” says Dellatore.
When you run out of stuff
Never skimp on the fabric and assume you can return to the store and buy more if needed. This may seem like smart shopping, but it’s not: never expect to get an exact fabric match the second time. “Dye sections change overnight,” warns upholsterer Carl Dellatore. “You might buy an extra yard of fabric that looks the same, but if the color is slightly different, it doesn’t match the rest of the fabric.”
How do I calculate yardage for upholstery?
Measure the length and width of the front of the sofa. Then, measure the inside and outside of the arms and the seating area with the cushions removed. Once you have your numbers, divide by 36 to determine the yardage. Keep in mind that upholstery fabric is usually 54 inches wide.
Wikipedia
How much fabric do you need for your upholstery project?
There are few things worse than starting an upholstery project, you run out of fabric and you can’t find more of the exact same fabric. For this reason, it is important to know how to estimate the amount of material you will need. Although there are significant differences depending on what type of furniture you’re covering, there are some general rules you need to follow.
How to calculate the length of fabric for a sofa
First measure the length and width of each pillow from seam to seam. Also measure the side pieces and add an inch all the way around for the seam allowances! On average, it takes about two meters of fabric to cover a single sofa cushion. Next, measure the back of the sofa from seam to seam. Determine the overall length and width of the couch, again adding 1-inch seam allowances. Measure the length and width of the front of the sofa. Then measure the inside and outside of the armrests and the seating area with the cushions removed.
Once you have your numbers, divide them by 36 to determine the run length. Remember that upholstery fabric is typically 54 inches wide.
How to calculate the length of fabric for a chair
The process of figuring out the fabric length for chairs is similar to the process for sofas. First, measure the length and width of all the pillows that the piece has. Measure the front, back, and sides, remembering to add an inch for the seam allowance. Next, measure the frame, making sure to include any areas covered with fabric.
When you’re done measuring, divide each measurement by 36 to calculate the length needed to upholster your chair.
Need help calculating fabric length? We can help
Upholstering furniture is a big job and more demanding than it looks. Estimating upholstery fabrics is difficult, and it’s easy to make mistakes that ruin the project. At Bob’s Upholstery and Design Center, we’re here to help. When you visit our fabric store in Marietta, GA, we’re happy to help you estimate how much fabric you’ll need for your project. We also offer professional upholstery services and have decades of experience to help you get the job done right.
Whether you’re struggling with yardage requirements and need help estimating fabric yardage for upholstery, or would rather leave the entire project to the professionals, call us now at 770-421-1278 to get started.
How do I calculate how much fabric I need?
Start with your desired total width and divide by the width of the fabric. Round up to the next whole number. This is how many widths of fabric you need. Then take the total desired length and multiply by the number of widths you just calculated.
Wikipedia
For more specific types of projects, check out these other resources:
This guide will show you how to calculate how many yards you need for different scenarios, whether your measurements are larger or smaller than the width of your desired fabric.
overall dimensions
1 yard = 3 feet = 36 inches For the rest of the metric world, convert to inches before starting. The easiest way to do this is to google “cm to inches” and enter the centimeters into the conversion calculator.
First you need to know what the overall dimensions are in inches. This includes any extras you may need to sew, attach or finish the fabric. For example: if you are making something that needs a seam allowance, such as B. pillow, you need to add the seam allowance times 2 to the width and length.
When making canvas wall art, you need to know the size of the canvas and how much extra material will be needed to wrap and staple the backing. Same idea for reupholstering dining room chairs.
If you’re making something that needs hemming, you need to know how much extra you’ll need for the hemming. The other thing you need to know is how wide your desired fabric is. Proceed to the next few steps depending on whether or not your overall measurements will fit within the width of the fabric.
Measurements that fit within the width of the fabric
One Piece If you just need one piece of fabric and it fits the width of your fabric, you probably don’t even need to read this, but we’ll explain it just in case! Take the total length you need and divide by 36 to calculate how many yards you need. Most of our fabrics are sold in full yard increments, so round up to the nearest yard. Multiple pieces If you need multiple pieces of the same size, such as For cushions, napkins, dining chair pads, etc., start with your fabric width and divide by the width of one of the pieces you need. Round down to the nearest whole number. So many parts fit in width. Next, take the total number of pieces and divide by that number to find out how many rows you need. Finally, take the length of a single piece and multiply that by the number of rows. Divide by 36 and round up to the nearest whole number.
If your fabric is tight or non-directional, you can try reversing the width and length to see that fewer yards are needed. In the example, it is also rounded up to 3 yards. If you need multiple sizes, pulling them out helps.
Dimensions wider than fabric width
If the width of the piece is wider than the width of the fabric, you will need to sew or sew the pieces together. These calculations work for many projects, including fabric wallpaper and other wall coverings, tablecloths, duvet covers and linens, flooring and flooring, awnings, banners, backdrops, headboards, and panels. One Piece Start with your desired overall width and divide by the width of the fabric. Round up to the nearest whole number. How many panels of fabric do you need? Then take the total length you want and multiply it by the number of widths you just calculated. Divide by 36 and round up to the nearest whole number. This is the total length you will need.
Multiple Pieces If you need multiple pieces of the same size, multiply by the number you need before dividing by 36, then divide by 36 and round up. Or if they are different sizes, add them up before dividing by 36. Patterned Fabrics If you have a patterned fabric and want to adjust the design, add a vertical repeat for each additional width of fabric before dividing by 36. For example, if you need 3 widths of fabric to get the correct total width, add 2x the vertical repeat to the total length before dividing by 36. If the length is less than the vertical repeat, just use the vertical repeat as the length and you don’t need to add extra before converting to yards. You can find the repeats in the detail area on the product page of our fabrics. Most of the time you don’t have to worry about the horizontal repeat as the pattern is evenly divided across the width of the fabric. This means the pattern is matched at the selvedges with a slight overlap so there is no wasted fabric. Placing Seams Some projects, like bedspreads, tablecloths, and headboards, look best when you have the full-width piece in the center and the rest on the sides. This looks more professional than a seam down the middle. To find out how to sew patterned fabrics together, check out How to Make a Duvet Cover.
Please note: We cannot answer your questions about specific projects here in a timely manner. Therefore, please contact our customer service if you need further assistance. You need to know the width of the fabric you want so we can give you accurate information.
Bergere Chair Getting Ready For Upholstery
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How To: Reupholster a Bergere Chair – Apartment Therapy
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DIY Bergere Chair Makeover – Sense & Serendipity
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DIY: Bergere Chair Makeover
I finally finished my second chair! It took three weeks but I finally put the finishing touches on it last night and I’m SO glad I finished.
Remember when I told you how I found this Bergere chair on Craigslist? So I finally found the fabric I wanted to use, ordered it and finally got around to giving this big old chair a new look. I used this:
Deliveries:
About 6 yards of fabric (I ordered 10 yards and have plenty left)
A bottle of sander/deglosser
Primer in a spray can
Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo in linen white
Floetrol (a latex color conditioner)
Polyurethane in a spray can
Foam brush and roller
Pneumatic upholstery stapler
air compressor
Glue gun and lots of glue sticks
First things first: the deconstruction. Unlike Eloise, this chair was a little easier to disassemble. I was able to pull the old fabric off the chair without tearing it. This was important because I am using the old fabric as a pattern to cut out the new fabric. Pulling the old fabric out of the frame also helped because it released a lot of the staples. However, many of the clips were so deep in the frame that they wouldn’t budge no matter how hard I dug with my flathead screwdriver or pulled with my needle nose pliers. So I had to leave a lot of staples in the wood.
Once I had all the fabric removed, I took the frame to the garage to begin the painting process. As with Eloise, I left the foam and much of the cotton wool on the chair during the painting process. I wasn’t too concerned about getting paint on the cotton because no one will ever know.
First I used a sander/deglosser on the wood of the frame. I had reason to believe the old finish was an oil paint and I would use a latex paint. Sanding with a conventional sanding block would have been quite a hassle in all the grooves of the wood, so I went with the chemical method. After the sander/deglosser worked its magic, I spray primed the wood and let it dry overnight.
I originally planned to paint the chair with a paint gun, but no matter what I did to thin the paint, the stupid paint gun didn’t work properly. So I gave up on that idea and used a foam brush and foam roller to paint the chair a nice creamy white color. IMPORTANT NOTE: To reduce brush strokes and leave a smooth finish, I added Floetrol to my paint. It’s a latex paint conditioner that you can find at almost any hardware store. It works wonders!
Anyway, after about three coats of paint (allowing to dry overnight after each coat) I decided not to do the antique finish on this chair like I did on Eloise. Why? I do not really know. I may or may not regret that decision later. After all of my paint was dry, I sprayed a protective polyurethane finish over the paint and let it dry.
In the meantime, while all the paint is drying, I’m back at the house, laying out my fabric and cutting out my pattern. After the chair was completely dry, I moved it back inside and began the reupholstery process.
The hardest part of reupholstering this chair was sewing all of the pieces of fabric that make up the bottom of the chair. I did it, but it definitely wasn’t perfect. I thought of tearing it up and making a new one, but that thought quickly passed. I figured since the bottom of the seat would be covered by the seat cushion, it didn’t have to be perfect. (Like my little labels for myself? It helped me keep track of all the little pieces and put them together like a puzzle.)
Oh, and remember how the armrests of the chair had been eaten by a dog? Yeah, I didn’t feel like replacing the chewed up foam, so I just cut off a few pieces of cotton and stapled them over the shredded foam to make the arms smooth and dog bite free.
At that point, I was having a party with the stapler. Remember, when re-basting the fabric, try to stay as close to the original basting marks as possible. Once you’ve stapled your fabric back, trim off the excess fabric as close to the basting line as possible. And don’t be like me and staple the back panel to the chair before you’ve pulled the front panel through… yeah, that was fun. I had to undo all the bottom staples on the back panel to avoid ruining my new fabric just so I could pull the front panel through and staple everything back on. I cursed like a sailor the whole time. Lobster left the room early to avoid my wrath. He’s a smart man.
Anyhoo, after I stapled all the panels onto the frame, I sewed the pillow panels together. That was fun too. I just want to say that I enjoy sewing t-pillows about as much as I enjoy going to the dentist. Which isn’t much. At all.
Pillow ready (thanks, baby Jesus) and it was time for the piping. At Eloise I only did single piping, but this chair originally had double piping and I decided to stick with it. So I cut out 2.5 inch strips of fabric and sewed two or three strips together at the ends to make really long strips. After measuring my cord against the old piping I ripped off the chair, I placed the cord on one end of the long strip of fabric and sewed it closed.
Then I placed the second cord panel right next to the first, now wrapped panel, and folded it over. I then sewed along the same stitch line, making sure the second length of cord was pressed firmly against the first length. Once both cords were sewn in, I cut off the excess fabric right at the stitch line. The raw edge of the double piping (where you simply cut away the fabric) is the back of the double piping and is glued to the chair.
After that was done I started messing with my glue gun and carefully glued all the doubled cords in place. Be careful, I burned my fingers several times.
And this is how she looks today! Much better I think. I think I’ll call this one Big Bertha. It’s big and beautiful and very comfortable. Not sure if Bertha = comfortable but I’m sticking with it.
how do you like her
Bergère Definition & Meaning
“Pride”: The word that went from vice to strength
are you proud of pride
Wikipedia
Not to be confused with Bergères, a commune in north-central France.
A Bergère is a closed, upholstered French armchair (Fauteuil)[1] with a padded backrest and armrests on a padded frame.[2] The seat frame is over-upholstered, but the rest of the wooden frame is exposed: it can be molded or carved, and made of beech, painted or gilded, or of fruitwood, walnut or mahogany with a waxed finish. Padded elbow rests can stand on the armrests. A bergere is fitted with a loose but tailored seat cushion. It’s designed for lounging in comfort, with a deeper, wider seat than that of a regular armchair, although the Bellangé White House bergeres are more formal. A bergère in the eighteenth century was essentially a furniture courant intended to be moved at will, rather than being permanently formally placed on the walls as part of the decor.[3]
marquises à oreilles, 1780s Couple Louis XVI, 1780s
The fanciful name “Shepherdess Chair” was coined in Paris in the mid-18th century, where the model evolved without notable a break from the late 17th-century chaise de commodité, a version of the wing chair whose padded “wings” shielded the chair’s face in the Bergère à oreilles (“with ears”) or, imaginatively, in the Bergère Confessionale, people were kept from the heat of the fireplace or draughts, as if the inhabitant were hidden in a confessional. A bergère can have a flat, sloping back, in which case it is à la Reine, or, more common in Louis XV furniture, an arched back, a cabriolet. A bergère with a low back curve that continues uninterruptedly into the armrests is a marquise.[4]
The form, which first appeared in Paris during the Régence (1715–23), reaches its fullest expression in the uniform curves of the Rococo style, and then continues in a more architectural, linear style in the Louis XVI, Directoire, and French and American Empire styles .
See also[edit]
Notes [edit]
^ armchair en bergere. Pierre Verlet, 18th Century French Furniture and Interior Decoration (Fribourg: Office du Livre 1977:177). The inventory after the death of Mme de Pompadour lists a (Fribourg: Office du Livre 1977:177). ^ The armchair differs in that it has open armrests. ^ Verlet 1977, “Furniture of Comfort and Elegance” pp. 173ff; The Bergère is discussed on pages 177–79. ^ Model timeline in Madeleine Jarry, Le siège français (Fribourg: Office du Livre) 1973, following p. 356
References[ edit ]
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