How To Sharpen Hawkbill Knife? All Answers

We love testing knives, especially EDC folding knives, but everyone has their preferences. There’s blade material, handle material, size, weight and of course features. One thing that seems elusive, however, is the purpose of the knife blade shapes. There are many knife blade shapes available and we wanted to write an article to explain some of the most popular ones. Having already covered knife blade sharpening, this seemed like the next thing to tackle in order to explain to consumers the various options that are available.

Straight back knife blade

You will see many straight back knives because they are extremely strong. They’re particularly popular for survival-style knives (alongside the Tango blade). Because of the way the knife point runs along the strong back of the knife, a straight back knife works well for penetrating the material. It’s also great for cutting, as most of the blade is easy to maintain along a cutting line. The blades are also usually easy to sharpen as they only have a single curve along the front. A clip point knife is similar to a straight back knife, except the unsharpened trailing edge of the knife stops about halfway down the blade before plunging in a curve or direct line onto the point. Because of this, the clip point knife is not as strong at the tip.

Drop point knife blade

I have owned more drop point knives than any other knife. This is the style of the Kershaw Blur knife, the Benchmade 580 Barrage knife and also the CRKT Shenanigan knife. Like the straight-back knife, a drop-point blade is excellent for slicing and is usually easy to sharpen (as far as shape affects that). The difference is that the unsharpened spine of the blade slopes down to the point instead of staying flat on top. These knives have varying degrees of “belly,” and you’ll see many variations on this – often referred to as a “modified drop point.” These knives give you a lot of control when cutting, and they are easy to control without going too deep when cutting.

Tanto knife blade

Most guys love the look of the tanto knife blade. What sets this blade apart is the hard break from the bottom blade to the front section. An “American tanto” knife blade has a straight leading edge, while a “Japanese tanto” knife blade adds some curve to that leading edge. These knives are very popular as tactical weapons because of their strong point and excellent ability to drive right through tough material. You probably don’t want to skin anything with this, however, since you only have that small front part of the blade to slide over the material. Two popular knives we tested with this blade are the CRKT M16-12ZER EMT and the Kershaw Kuro 1835TBLKST.

The sheepfoot blade is named for its shape, which vaguely resembles half of a cloven sheep’s hoof (seen from above). As it has a rather flat front it is very difficult to pierce anything with this blade – making it ideal for rescue purposes or situations where you need to cut something without penetrating the material. A sheepfoot blade also has a nice finish on the top and front so you can grip it when using it and operate it with a good level of control. You will see that many Japanese kitchen knives use this style of blade. It’s also as close to a razor blade as you can get, making it ideal for opening boxes and cutting through stiff cellulosic material. The Byrd Rescue 2 and Spyderco Atlantic Salt knives we tested have a sheepfoot design, but with serrated edges.

Wharncliffe knife blade

The Wharncliffe blade belongs to the sheepfoot blade family, but with a more gradual fall towards the point. This gives it a slightly more penetrating point, but it’s still a good knife if you want to cut without much chance of forward penetration. The Wharncliffe also retains the lack of “belly” on the blade, so it’s not the best type of knife if you want to cut “fillet” style (the tip grinds and does most of the work). There is much debate as to the origin of the Wharncliffe blade and name, but in any case the name is relatively modern historically. We tested the Kershaw Needs Work knife, which has a distinctive Wharncliffe blade.

Hawk Bill knife blade

There is no lack of fascination in the design of the Hawk Bill blade. Similar to the box cutter, the hawk blade cuts by pulling along the material. It requires very little downward pressure to work, so you can just pull in one direction with one hand. It’s also not good for stabbing since the tip is pointing down. To be honest, unless you’re cutting linoleum or pruning, this knife really is a brutal combat-style knife reminiscent of an animal’s claw or claw (hence the nickname, clawed blade). A great example of a Hawk Bill knife is the Milwaukee Fastback Hawkbill knife we ​​previewed – perfect for cutting back wire insulation or cutting through the cellulose. The SOG construction knives also include a nice foldable falcon knife for cutting construction materials.

Trailing point knife blade

The Trailing Point Knife is basically a filleting knife. It has a very smooth, gradual belly that makes it easy to cut along surfaces or separate thin materials. All skinning or filleting knives are trailing-tipped blades. The biggest distinguishing feature is the tip, which actually slopes upwards beyond the spine of the blade. While the point is sharp, it’s not the focus of this blade and may be its weakest… well, its weakest point.

Conclusion

There are certainly other types of blades, including the spearhead, dagger, and all sorts of interesting blade styles from China, Nepal, Japan, and other cultures. However, the blades above are the ones you are most likely to encounter when making a typical purchasing decision. By becoming familiar with these, you can understand exactly the things that make each blade unique and effective for whatever task you intend to use it for.

This Whittler’s Three Blade Folder is a classic American style everyday carry knife. There are three different blade styles with different lengths: a California clip point blade, a sheep foot blade and a short Spey blade. You’ll find countless uses for this handy pocket knife, whether it’s stick carving, wood carving, opening packages in the office, or slicing small groceries like vegetables and cheese. Featuring a brass inlaid logo plate bearing the Garrett Wade stamp, scales are made from Pakkawood, a stabilized wood that will not shrink or crack. This knife fits into our small leather sheath. Toss one in the kitchen drawer or in your bag. Blade Sizes: 2¾” California Clip Point; 2″ Sheepsfoot Blade; 1-5/8″ Spey blade.

Add the belt-attached leather sheath and stop worrying about whether your binder is available or not.

specifications

There are some tools that you should never forget to take care of. These are the tools that are there in dangerous situations or life’s scary tasks to kick your ass and get your butt out of the fire. No such tool is more important than your humble pocket knife, which needs regular care and sharpening to achieve its maximum functionality.

We can hear the chorus of voices shouting “Throw it out!” to all those dull knives stashed in your closets, drawers, garage and glove compartments, but that’s not how we do things at Task & Purpose. We’re here to show you another way. The right way to take those dull, neglected, and often discarded knives and give them their shine back is to sharpen them with a whetstone.

Why? Because your knife deserves it. Not just any Crate & Barrel slide sharpener. You and your knife need something to sharpen the blade and ensure that when everything is burning around you and the only way to escape is by cutting your way out, trusty EDC is ready and willing to save you.

are you ready for this

Knife sharpening is the right way to do it

Knife sharpening stones and a knife. Jonathan Klein

Time needed: 1-2 hours

Difficulty level: beginner

What is a knife sharpening?

When sharpening a knife, some of the knife’s surface steel is removed to re-sharpen the blade. By removing a bit of steel, the edge becomes razor sharp again.

How does sharpening a knife work?

When sharpening a knife, whether through a more traditional honing stroke or on a whetstone, some of the knife’s steel is removed to redefine the knife’s edge. This ensures that when it comes time to cut yourself out of a car, splice paracord to use as fishing line, or Liam Neeson lunges at that wolf pack charging you, your blade will instantly pierce that wolf’s heart meets.

Mutually assured safety when sharpening knives

You can’t earn a Purple Heart in the Garage, so you don’t have to put yourself at risk. Make sure you get out the other side by following the instructions, taking your time and understanding that what we are doing here can be dangerous. Stay alert and you won’t need stitches – maybe.

Beginners may want to use cut resistant gloves.

Eye protection is always a good idea.

Take your time again, be methodical. Don’t try to rush anything.

What you need to sharpen a knife

A set of whetstones. Jonathan Klein

Everyone has different gear in their kit. Make sure you have the best tools in the business on hand for this particular task. Don’t worry, we’ve made a list.

components

Before you sit down or head out into the field, it’s best to organize your workspace or bag in advance. Cleanliness stands next to godliness, so the saying goes, and we firmly believe in this mantra. Set everything up and then continue. You’ll save yourself a headache when you have to rummage through your tools or hike all the way back from the woods just because you forgot your knife.

The knife in question. Jonathan Klein

The knife sharpening letter

Get ready, here’s how to sharpen your knife.

Clean your knife

Before you sharpen your knife, you should clean it thoroughly as particles can damage the knife when you try to sharpen it. Wash with soap and water. Dry thoroughly and inspect the surface for any remaining roughness.

Soaking your whetstones. Jonathan Klein

Setting up your sharpening station

Soak the whetstones (400-10,000 grit) in warm water for five minutes before beginning sharpening. This will lubricate the stones. Set up your sharpening station by placing your rack or cutting board under the kitchen sink faucet. Use two towels to secure the base of the board or rack. This will keep them from sliding around when you start sharpening the knife. Once the whetstone has soaked, remove the lowest grit stone from the water and place it in the holder. Place the holder with the soaked sharpening stone on the rack or board, directly under the faucet. When you’re done, turn on the faucet to a trickle that will splash onto the knife as you sharpen. This ensures continuous lubrication. Some whetstone kits come with a blade guide. These attach to the back of the knife and give you the perfect angle to sharpen the knife edge. If your kit comes with one, you should attach it to the blade. If it doesn’t, a good rule of thumb for the angle is to put your pinky between your spine and the whetstone. This gap gives you the right edge.

Push and pull in steady strokes.

Slide your knife forward.

Draw the knife to you.

A set of whetstones.

A set of finer grit whetstones.

Sharpen with higher grit whetstones.

Sharpen your knife with the whetstone

After attaching the guide to the spine or using your finger as an angle guide, press the edge of the blade into the stone near where the water will drip. You should apply about 1-2 pounds of pressure on the blade, or just enough to start removing steel with the grit. Since the blade of your pocket knife is likely to have multiple facets, each one needs to be sharpened. That said, how long you sharpen each facet has no right or wrong time period for it. Our advice is to set a predetermined time to sharpen using a timer for each facet. For example, for this guide, we set a time of 2:30 minutes for each facet. Using a back and forth motion, move on the edge of the blade across the whetstone, making sure the edge is parallel to the top of the whetstone, until the timer sounds. This will ensure that it sharpens fully. When moving to the next facet, restart the timer for exactly the same amount of time to ensure each facet gets equal attention. Continue this process until you have worked through the first stone grit. When finished, remove the next grit and repeat the sanding process. Once you’re done and you’ve worked your way through each grit, culminating in the 8,000 to 10,000 grit range, the knife should be able to cut through paper with hardly any pressure applied. If it doesn’t, you can keep sharpening the blade until it does.

The professional tips of a knife sharpening specialist

The sharpened knife. Jonathan Klein

Having sharpened a few dozen knives in my lifetime, there are a few things you’ll learn along the way. Here are our pro tips.

Never learn to sharpen a knife straight away with your favorite or most expensive knife. It takes a minute to get the rhythm and flow down and you can screw up the edge of your knife. If necessary, choose something cheap and disposable.

Give yourself time to get it right. You don’t have to, and you don’t want to, rush this, as it turns out your hand can cramp from holding the knife and the repeated back and forth motions.

Knives are sharp, so treat them that way.

Sharpen with higher grit whetstones. Jonathan Klein

A POG’s Knife Sharpening FAQs

More questions? Here is the additional briefing from Task & Purpose.

Q. Is whetstone better to sharpen?

A Yes! The process is much more precise and will give you a better edge, at least if you do it right.

Q. Can you ruin a knife by sharpening it yourself?

A. It’s virtually impossible to screw up that much unless you completely deform the blade. But even if you put dents in the edge, you can still sharpen. It just takes longer.

Q. How much does it cost to sharpen a knife?

A. If you make it at home, the only cost is the whetstones or draw sharpener. These range from $20 to $250 depending on the quality and number of grains. The kit we used was $35.99, but we also have a set that costs $100 and is of better quality.

Q. Should you sharpen a new knife?

A. You can, but new knives usually come fairly sharp from the factory or your supplier. You shouldn’t have to sharpen it right out of the box.

We’re here to be experts in all things how-to. Use us, compliment us, tell us we are full FUBAR. Comment below and let’s talk! You can also yell at us on Twitter or Instagram.

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Knives for general or utility use

“Boxcutter” and “Boxcutter” redirect here. For other uses, see Cardboard cutter (disambiguation)

Knife with retractable blade and interchangeable utility blade

A utility knife is any type of knife used for general manual work purposes.[1] Such knives were originally fixed knives with durable cutting edges suitable for rough work such as cutting cordage, cutting/scraping hides, butchering animals, cleaning fish scales, shaping wood, and other tasks. Craft knives are small, general-purpose knives used as precision-oriented tools for finer, more delicate tasks such as carving and paper cutting.

Today, the term “utility knife” also includes small folding, retractable, and/or interchangeable razor blade knives suitable for use in the general workplace or in the construction industry. The latter type is sometimes commonly referred to as a Stanley knife, after a well-known brand.

There is also a utility knife for kitchen use that is between a chef’s knife and a paring knife in size.

history [edit]

The fixed-blade utility knife was developed about 500,000 years ago when human ancestors began making stone knives.[1] These knives were general-purpose tools intended for cutting and shaping wooden implements, scraping hides, preparing food, and other useful purposes.[1]

By the 19th century, the fixed-blade utility knife had evolved into a steel-bladed outdoor field knife, used for butchering game, cutting wood, and preparing campfires and meals. With the invention of the recoil, pocket-sized utility knives were introduced [when?] with folding blades and other folding tools intended to increase the utility of the overall design. The folding pocket knife and utility tool is typified by the Camper or Boy Scout pocket knife, the USA folding utility knife, the Swiss Army knife, and multi-tools equipped with knife blades. The development of stronger locking mechanisms for folding knives – such as the Spanish Navaja, the Opinel, and the Buck 110 Folding Hunter [citation needed] – has greatly increased the usefulness of such knives when used for heavy-duty tasks such as preparing game or cutting through dense or tough materials.

Contemporary utility knives [ edit ]

A Stanley 99E utility knife, fully broken in

The utility knife with a fixed or folding blade is popular for both indoor and outdoor use. One of the most popular types of utility knives for the workplace is the retractable or folding utility knife (also known as a Stanley knife, box cutter, or by various other names). These types of utility knives are designed as multi-purpose cutting tools for use in a variety of trades and crafts. Lightweight and easy to carry and use, utility knives are widely used in factories, warehouses, construction projects, and other situations where a tool is routinely needed for marking cutting lines, trimming plastic or wood materials, or cutting ribbon and cord , strapping, cardboard or other packaging material.

names [edit]

In British, Australian, and New Zealand English, as well as Dutch, Danish, and Austrian German, a utility knife commonly used in the construction industry is known as the Stanley knife.[2] This name is a generic trademark, named after Stanley Works, a manufacturer of such knives.[3] In Israel and Switzerland these knives are known as Japanese knives. In Brazil they are known as estiletes or cortadores olfa (the latter being another generic brand[4]). In Portugal, Panama and Canada they are also known as X-Acto (yet another generic brand[5] ). In India, Russia, the Philippines, France, Iraq, Italy, Egypt and Germany they are simply called cutters. [citation needed] In the Flemish region of Belgium it is called cuttermes (je) (cutter knives). [6] In common Spanish they are known as cortaplumas (pocket knives, if folding blades are involved); in Spain, Mexico and Costa Rica they are colloquially known as cutters; In Argentina and Uruguay, the segmented fixed-blade knives are known as “trinchetas”. [citation needed] In Turkey they are known as Maket Bıçağı (which literally translates as model knives).

Other names for the tool include box cutters or box cutters, razor blade knives, straight razors, box cutters, pen knives, stationery knives, sheetrock knives, or drywall knives.

draft [edit]

Utility knives may use fixed, folding, or retractable or interchangeable blades, and come in a variety of lengths and styles suited to the particular set of tasks they are designed for. Therefore, an outdoor utility knife suitable for camping or hunting may use a wide 75 to 130 millimeters (3–5 in) fixed blade, while a construction utility knife may use an interchangeable utility or razor blade for packing and chopping may exhibit shingles, mark cut lines, or scrape paint.

Fixed blade utility knife [ edit ]

Fixed X-Acto knife for handicrafts and model making.

Large fixed blade utility knives are most commonly used in the outdoors, such as B. when fishing, camping or hunting. Outdoor utility knives typically feature sturdy blades that are 100 to 150 millimeters (4 to 6 inches) in length and edge geometry designed to resist chipping and breaking.

The term “utility knife” can also refer to small, fixed-blade knives used for arts and crafts, model making, and other craft projects. These small knives feature lightweight blades best suited for cutting thin, lightweight materials. The small, thin blade and the special handle enable cuts that require a high degree of precision and control.

Utility knife for the workplace[ edit ]

Above is a modern safety cutter with a blunt blade tip and cutting guide/tape hook. Below is a simple older style plastic box cutter with standard straight blades.

The largest construction or utility knives usually feature retractable and replaceable blades made of either die-cast metal or molded plastic. Some use standard razor blades, others use specialized double-ended general-purpose blades. The user can adjust how far the blade protrudes from the handle, allowing the knife to be used, for example, to cut the tape that seals a package without damaging the package’s contents. When the blade becomes dull, it can be quickly turned over or swapped out for a new one. Spare or used blades are stored in the hollow handle on some models and can be accessed by removing a screw and opening the handle. Other models have a quick-change mechanism that enables tool-free blade changes, as well as a fold-out blade rest. The blades for this type of utility knife come in both double-sided and single-edged versions, and are interchangeable with many, but not all, later specimens. There are also special blades for cutting cord, linoleum and other materials.

Utility knife with a segmented blade or “snap-off blade”.

Another style is a breakaway utility knife that contains a long, segmented blade that slides out. When the outermost edge becomes dull, it can be snapped off the remaining blade, revealing the next section, which is sharp and ready for use. Breaking off is best done with an often built-in blade snapper or pliers, and breakage occurs at the score lines where the metal is thinnest. When all of the individual segments are used up, the knife can be discarded or refilled more frequently with a spare blade. Introduced in 1956 by Japanese manufacturer Olfa Corporation as the world’s first snap-off blade, this design was inspired by analysis of the sharp cutting edge created when breaking glass and how pieces of a chocolate bar break into segments. The sharp edge of these knives is not on the edge where the blade broke; Rather, one long edge of the entire blade is sharpened, and there are scored diagonal cleavage lines at intervals along the blade. Thus each piece broken off is approximately a parallelogram with each long edge being a broken edge and one or both of the short ends being a sharp edge.

Economical box cutter made of stamped steel and aluminum with disposable razor blade.

Another utility knife commonly used for slicing boxes consists of a simple sleeve around a rectangular handle into which single-edged utility blades can be inserted. The sleeve slides up and down on the handle, holding the blade in place during use and covering the blade when not in use. The blade holder can either be retracted or folded into the handle, similar to a folding pocket knife. The blade holder is designed to expose just enough edges to cut through a layer of corrugated cardboard to minimize the risk of damaging box contents.

Use as weapon[edit]

Most utility knives are not well suited to be used as offensive weapons, with the exception of some outdoor-type utility knives that use longer blades. However, even small razor-type utility knives can sometimes find use as slashing weapons. However, the 9/11 Commission report said that passengers in cell phone calls reported that knives or “box knives” were used as weapons (also clubs or bombs) in the 9/11 terrorist attacks against the United States, the precise design of the knives used is unknown.[8][9] Two of the hijackers were known to have purchased Leatherman knives with a 4-inch slip-joint blade, which were not then banned on US flights. These knives were not found among the belongings left behind by the two kidnappers.[10] Similarly, knives, including paper cutters, are also known to be used as deadly weapons.[11]

Small working-type utility knives were also used to commit robberies and other crimes. In June 2004, a Japanese student was killed with a segmented utility knife.

In the UK, the law was amended (effective 1 October 2007)[12] to raise the age limit for purchasing knives, including utility knives, from 16 to 18 and carrying a utility knife in public without a good reason Reason.[13]

See also[edit]

They’re sharp and good for fair and foul ends, and might even come in handy for some ambushes (should you be that inclined!).

What am I talking about? The Stanley Knife.

There are many jokes in certain medieval groups about these utility knives being something invented by the two side-shifting, playful Stanley Bros of the 15th century.

Here’s what I found…

A WILLIAM Stanley invented the Stanley knife. No, not the one Henry Tudor executed when he claimed Perkin Warbeck was the “right deal,” but William Stanley, born in Islington in 1829. He was the son of a mechanic named John Stanley, and a descendant of Thomas Stanley – not This particular Thomas Stanley, but the one who wrote The History of Philosophy in the 17th century. The author and philosopher Stanley was the son of Sir Thomas Stanley of Cumberlow, who – and this is where it gets interesting – happened to be the grandson of another Thomas Stanley (they loved the name Thomas, those Stanleys! Doubting Thomases?), an illegitimate son of Edward Stanley, third Earl of Derby. Edward Stanley was the son of Thomas Stanley (that name again!), the 2nd Earl, who was in turn the son of George Stanley… You may also know George as Lord Strange, who was held at Bosworth by Richard for his good behavior of his father, Thomas Stanley.

(The story goes that Stanley said Richard could go ahead and execute poor old George because he had “other sons”; however, this may be purely mythical. Other untruths about Lord Strange are that he was an unfortunate, innocent child, being held hostage by the bad guys “villain” Richard – he was at least 24-25 years old at the time of Bosworth, and some sources list him as even older. Another interesting fact is that Jacquetta, the mother of his wife Joan , who was sister to Elizabeth Woodville.)

And that brings us to George Stanley’s father, who was of course Thomas the Trimmer, 1st Earl of Derby, stepfather to Henry Tudor and husband to Margaret Beaufort – so indeed the Stanley Knife could be said to be linked to this slippery lord and his kin .

I suppose Lord Stanley would have agreed.

You can easily identify the retraction mechanism of Slice® retractable knives by the color-coded slider.

The first retractable knives were developed in the early 1950’s. As the benefits of this safety innovation made it more popular, each knife manufacturer developed their own version. Retractable utility knives have become so common that you’re unlikely to find anyone who has never used one at home or at work. And while most people think of “retractable” as a spring-loaded mechanism that only exposes the blade while a slider or button is pressed, there are actually several different types of retraction mechanisms. Here’s an overview of each type, with their pros and cons, plus some advice on choosing the best safety knife for the job.

Manual retract grips

Most people don’t consider this type of handle “retractable” because its mechanism is manual rather than automatic, but technically this type of knife belongs on the list of retractable utility knives simply because its blade retracts into the handle. However, instead of pulling the blade out along a user-controlled continuum, these blades have preset (or fixed) positions where the blade locks in for cutting.

Although these fixed positions give the user less control when selecting a specific blade depth, they reduce potential hand strain because the user does not have to activate a mechanism to keep the edge clear after adjusting the blade position. Making repetitive cuts over time will add significantly to your comfort.

The downside of set blade positions really has to do with human nature. When it comes to fully retracting the blade to be on the safe side, this is often forgotten. An open-bladed knife is a hazard the moment it’s pocketed, absent-mindedly picked up by the next user, or banged on the ground and forgotten.

Findings on manual retraction:

Reduces hand strain compared to other retraction methods

Can be dangerous if users forget to fully retract the blade after use

Presents a risk if the blade slips while cutting

Best for repeated cutting over long periods of time

Look for handles with multiple blade positions, including the smallest depth of cut possible for your job

Slice manual retract options:

Automatically retractable knives

An auto-retracting mechanism is the one that first comes to mind when thinking of auto-retracting knives. This is the standard type of spring-loaded recoil, requiring the user to pull a slide or button (sometimes called a trigger) to expose the blade and make the cut.

This type of handle is inherently safer than a manually retractable knife simply because the user cannot accidentally leave the blade open. Safety managers love this option for obvious reasons: no accidentally exposed blades, meaning these knives are safe to carry in your pocket. Users can better control the blade exposure length and therefore the depth of cut. Auto-retreat tends to cost a bit more as it’s more expensive to craft, but that cost difference pales in comparison to the cost of a breach.

Takeaways for automatic retraction:

Increases safety by eliminating the possibility of accidental blade exposure

It takes more effort to keep the blade clear during long shifts of cutting

Users can bypass the auto-retract by gluing the slider in place so the blade is always exposed, negating any safety gains

Best for reducing injuries from exposed blades when not in use

Look for ergonomic grip styles to reduce hand strain

Slice auto retract options:

Self-retracting or smart-retraction handles

Taking safety to a new level, these retractable blade knives truly are the safest option when it comes to retraction methods. These tools require both a user to engage the blade and the pressure of the blade grinding against material to expose the blade. In practice, this means that the blade will retract as soon as it loses contact with the cutting material, even if the user is still pulling the trigger. This protects against accidental injury that occurs if the user’s hand slips while cutting. It also makes it impossible for users to bypass retraction by simply gluing the slider in place.

Self retracting grips are more expensive because it is more expensive to manufacture the internal intelligent retraction mechanism. But when a single laceration can cost tens of thousands of dollars, it’s often worth the investment. These handles also take some getting used to finding the right amount of tension needed to keep the blade clear, but users familiar with auto-retracting knives will adapt quickly.

Takeaways via self-retreat:

Offers the safest blade exposure option on the market

Takes a little getting used to at first

Requires muscle power to re-engage the blade after each cut

Best for reducing injuries from exposed blades when not in use AND slip accidents during a cut

Look for a spring mechanism with a tension that suits the material you are cutting so it doesn’t retract itself too easily or at all

Smart Retire Slice Options:

What about non-retractable knives?

There are knives with non-retracting blades, too, and they have their place. Generally, if security is your primary concern, you’ll want some sort of retreat. The exception is when you can use one of Slice’s finger-friendly® blades.

Non-retracting knives fall into a few categories.

Embedded Blades

This includes any fixed blade embedded in the handle itself. Some of these have interchangeable blades, but truly embedded utility knife blades are embedded in the handle material and are therefore not interchangeable. If these blades are made of metal, they dull quickly and often need to be sharpened. Slice offers several precision cutting tools with replaceable or embedded finger-friendly blades (all with safety caps).

For safety reasons, embedded blades are not particularly secure as the blade is always exposed, although some models mitigate this with a cap or scabbard. Slice’s microceramic blades are exceptional when it comes to safety, being finger-friendly and too small to cause deep wounds in the skin. These tiny blades are included with our popular Safety Cutter and Precision Cutter tools.

folding handles

These knives have hinges so their blades fold themselves into the handle like a typical pocket knife or Swiss Army knife. This provides a fixed blade while cutting and an integrated blade guard when the knife is not in use.

Which retractable utility knives are right for you?

As with many tools, it really depends on your particular application, the emphasis you want to place on safety, and to some extent personal preference. With the information in this guide, you should have an idea of ​​what factors to consider. Don’t be afraid to try several different retractable knives to find your best fit; The right utility knife is worth the search.

Further reading:

How do you sharpen a single bevel knife? by James Lupton

Also known as HOCHO; It is a kitchen knife with a bevel commonly found in Japanese kitchens. Finding a Japanese home would be difficult without one. Aside from cuisine, it holds great importance in Japanese symbolism as it represents wealth and prosperity. It is typically used for slicing and filleting meat and fish.

Understand “single” bevel

A bevel is the part of the blade that slopes away from the body of the knife towards the edge of the blade. The angle of the knife is also known as the “bevel”. Most European and American knives are beveled on both sides of the blade; come to a point in the middle. Japanese knives are ground on one side only.

The sharpening process:

The name and terminology might be a little intimidating for some, but sharpening a single bevel knife is a simple matter that requires a few steps:

First, get a coarse whetstone

Place the sharpening stone on a cutting board or countertop. Place a wet paper towel under the rock to keep it from slipping out of control. Also make sure the sharpening stone is flat before you start.

One important thing to note is that you only need to sharpen the beveled side of the blade in a single bevel knife.

Hold the knife firmly by the handle with one hand and position the edge of the knife, tip first, against the stone with the edge meeting the wet stone at about a 30 degree angle

Using moderate pressure, slide the blade forward and across the sharpening stone, covering the entire length of the blade and holding it at a continuous 30 degree angle against the stone.

Continue until you discover a wire edge running the full length of the blade.

Now switch to the fine grinding stone. This will remove the scratches left by the coarser whetstone. At this stage you will need to sharpen both the hollow ground and beveled sides.

The passage ratio of bevel to fillet is 9 to 1, i. H. for each pass on the fuller; You need to make nine passes on the beveled side.

Finally you need to harden the edges. You can do this by raising the tip of the beveled side about 3 degrees and honing six or seven strokes. Now turn the blade over and repeat the sharpening process on the whetstone sharpener.

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Understanding Single and Double Bevel Knives by Tsuyoshi Inagaki

Ask any professional chef about the most important characteristic of their knives and they will most likely tell you the level of sharpness. With sharp knives, chefs can make the right cuts to create beautiful dishes, both in terms of presentation and flavor. This is precisely why the bevel – or angle – of a knife is so important. It determines how sharp, durable and ultimately efficient the knife is.

What are knife bevels?

A knife bevel refers to a surface that has been ground to form the edge of the knife. A close inspection of a knife will reveal a slight angle/bevel on one or both sides that runs down to the edge. This is the bevel. If there is one on either side, it is a double bevel knife. If there is one on only one side, it is a single bevel knife.

The bevel can be ground at different angles. In general, the smaller the angle, the sharper the knife.

Difference between a chamfer and an edge

The blade of the knife is the sharpest part of the knife that cuts into the ingredient. It is located at the lowest part of the knife and extends from the heel to the tip. The bevel is the angle leading to the edge of the knife; the component that is ground to form the edge.

What is the difference between a single and double bevel knife?

The difference is obvious:

Simple bevel knife: the angle is formed on one side only

the angle is formed on one side only. Double bevel knife: The angle is formed on both sides

Most European knives are double beveled. They come in a variety of edge styles, the most common being a V-shape, but compound (double-layered V-edge) and convex shapes also exist.

Many Japanese knives are simply bevelled, like the Santoku Genten. One side of the blade is perfectly straight while the other contains the angle that forms the cutting edge. These knives are also sometimes referred to as chisel blades.

Use of individual bevel knives

Single-bevel knives are used for certain types of cooking, e.g. B. Japanese cuisine, preferred because they offer a key advantage – they are extremely spicy. This is because they only need to be ground on one side, making it easier to create a much smaller and therefore sharper angle. This allows for precise slicing, dicing and slicing, which is essential in Japanese cuisine, especially when preparing sushi.

A single beveled knife also allows the chef to make long, uninterrupted and waffle-like cuts, which is very important when preparing certain Japanese vegetables (e.g. peeling daikon). It is difficult to achieve such uninterrupted cuts with a double-bevel knife.

At what angle do you sharpen a single bevel knife?

A single bevel knife can benefit from a sharpening angle of between 15 and 17 degrees. This creates a very fine or sharp edge, which is essential when slicing delicate fish, seafood, meat and vegetables.

Since there is only one bevel, these knives require less work to sharpen. However, they are delicate in nature and it takes time and practice to develop the right technique, especially when using a whetstone, which is a superior method of sharpening.

Use of double bevel knives

A double-bevel knife, like the Santoku Ganjo, has many uses. In general, it can be used for a variety of tasks that do not require extremely complicated work, such as slicing fish for making sushi or peeling long, continuous pieces of thin vegetables.

At what angle do you sharpen a double bevel knife?

A double bevel knife can be sharpened between 20-30 degrees on each side. Sharpening to the higher angle (i.e. 30 degrees) would occur when using the knife to chop or slice dense meat and vegetables as it needs to be more durable. Again, it’s best to use a whetstone when sharpening, making sure to create the same angle on each side of the bevel. These are just a few things to consider when discussing the differences between a single and double bevel knife. Slicing with single-edged knives is a skill that takes time to master, but allows the chef to produce excellent slices and cubes to create commendable dishes.

With paring knives, the main advantage of the single bevel front is that it makes it easier to make super-thin cuts. For example, one test of knife skill is to peel daikon radish to remove the skin, then further slicing to create a long, continuous, paper-thin strip, longer than if you just slice it would. See for example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLZUJGyuhQM

People who master this skill can also make remarkably quick cuts with matchsticks after making the long piece, and the lack of a back bevel can reduce the amount of food that sticks to the knife. Some of these single-bevel knives have a slightly concave back (urasuki), which can also reduce food adhesion to the knife.

On crab knives, the honing is on the side opposite the hand (the back of the knife), which can reduce the amount of shell fragments that could become embedded in the meat and likely allow the meat to be cut more cleanly.

In practice, however, most Japanese households use double-bevel knives. Single bevel is more common in professional kitchens, particularly in the Kansai region, where fancy cutting techniques are used in presentation to a greater extent than in Tokyo or northern Japan.

Although I have a nice nakiri knife and a cheap santoku, both are double beveled.

Knives intended for cutting regular fish or meat are usually, but not always, double-beveled, except again mostly for professionals. (I think yanagiba and sushi knives are usually single-edged, but again, they’re mostly used in professional kitchens and almost never at home). I thought sobakiri and udonkiri were usually beveled on one side to push away the sliced ​​noodles, but lately I’m less sure the single-bevel knife is as common as I previously thought it was for soba or udon knives .

The Japanese Wikipedia entry for Usuba knives suggests that the single-bevel edge is more durable. If true, it would be an advantage when used in high volume restaurants. In my experience, a thin, well-sharpened Japanese blade can chip more easily than a thicker blade, so I’ll give this a listen, even if I’m not 100% sure the notion that a single bevel is more durable is more than commonly known .

I think with practice you can get slightly more precise cuts with a single bevel than with dual bevel knives, but I don’t think they’ll be as easy to use for average knife-savvy chefs.

With the right tools, an electrician has everything they need to perform quality services safely and efficiently. In recent years, as basic tools have improved and new specialty devices have developed, the list of electrician tool choices has grown. Of all the options available, an electrician’s knife is one of the most versatile and a useful addition to an electrician’s tool belt.

An electrician’s knife performs a number of functions including: cutting and stripping wire, cutting electrical tape and insulation, and cutting and opening appliance boxes and packages. However, as with any tool, it is important that electricians understand what it is designed for and how to use it properly to avoid accidents. Below is everything an electrician needs to know about choosing a knife and using it safely.

Characteristics of electrician’s knives

Electrician’s knives come in a variety of shapes and sizes with different capabilities. They range from simple box cutters to multi-tools that contain special attachments for stripping wires of different diameters. The Hawk-Bill blade shape is great for retraction and works well when extra force is needed to cut through thicker, more durable cables. Many electrician’s knives have specially hardened blades that stay sharp longer when cutting through metal threads. If a wire stripper isn’t available, many electrician’s knives can remove the insulation from wires and cables as long as care is taken not to damage the conductor inside.

user friendliness

Choosing the right electrician’s knife that is designed for ease of use in a work environment makes difficult jobs that much easier. A knife should have a belt clip so it can be quickly attached to and removed from a tool belt so it is never left lying around which can pose a safety hazard. A non-slip, rubberized handle keeps the knife from slipping out of sweaty hands, and it should be comfortable to hold and use, preferably with a thumb rest for extra downward pressure. When cutting through tough materials, a quick blade change button helps speed up an electrician’s workflow when blades become dull or broken.

Incorrect use

Improper use of tools for electrical installation and maintenance work not only jeopardizes the expected result, but also endangers the life of the worker. When working with electrical cables, the power supply should always be disconnected, but it is important to have several layers of protection in case of a fault. Therefore, it is important that both the company and the employee are aware of the need for good quality insulated hand tools. A good electrician’s knife will have a handle to prevent the worker’s hand from slipping forward onto the blade when in use, and ideally the blade will be made of a non-conductive ceramic material that protects against electric shock. Thick protective gloves should be worn when using knives, and care must be taken to handle the knife properly to prevent a slipped blade from cutting or stabbing any part of the body.

care and recommendations

Although there are many benefits to using a utility knife, it is not recommended to use any type of knife as the wrong choice increases the likelihood of an accident. Many box cutters have thin diagonal lines in the blade that allow the user to snap off sections of the blade as they become dull and dull. While useful in many applications, it is not recommended for electricians, particularly when cutting through thick, heavy-duty materials, as the blade may break and injure the hand or other body part.

Some basic recommendations that will be familiar to most electricians but are worth repeating include: wear safety glasses, gloves, and other industry-standard personal protective equipment (PPE) depending on the task you are performing; Make sure the knives are stored in a clean, dry place away from the work area. Visually inspect a knife before each use. and do not use knives with broken, worn or rusted blades as these are at increased risk of breakage. By ensuring a tool is always up to the task, electricians can work faster and more comfortably without compromising on safety.

*Gabriela Damaceno is Head of Online Content at Media Shark, representing Adco Industries Australia.