How To Stain Bone For Knife Handles? The 80 Top Answers

by Jamie Smedley, exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads®

Learning to color bone beads and other components opens up a new avenue for creating distinctive jewelry.

is a natural material commonly available in bleached whites and natural off-whites, as well as various smoky tans and antique tints created by the application of wood smoke and other antique dyes. However, the porous nature and dyeable properties of this natural material are often underexploited by jewelry designers to personalize and enhance their jewelry design lines.

Bone accepts dyes, stains and

extraordinary good. The pale bone color is an ideal blank canvas to add any hue that may exist in mainstream fashion trends. Bone is also available in myriad smooth, textured, and carved beads and components.

Our sellers never harm animals to make beads or carvings. Cow, goat, and water buffalo bones are a by-product of food, clothing, and footwear production. The bones are cleaned, disinfected and carved into beautiful components or beads. The antique colors are not dyed, but obtained by placing bones in a smoker.

The process of coloring bone components and beads is basically the same as coloring beads or wood. Start with some dyes and then select the objects you want to color. Also, keep a journal handy to record your dyeing recipe and dyeing process so you can review or share your results.

Bone is a protein-based material that has a natural linear grain similar to wood. When staining bone, the intensity of the color is determined by the length of time the material is exposed to the stain. Your color can come from many different sources, including food coloring, Kool-Aid, fruit and vegetable juices, or water-based fabric dyes like RIT®. Experiment with many different types of dye sources to discover your favorites. Use the color wheel tool to blend your colors better. Bone can transfer its color, so it is necessary to seal the color with an artist’s fixative or other clear topcoat. This also protects the color from fading.

Bones can be colored by repeated immersion in a dye bath, soaking, or application with a sponge or brush. By mixing all the different paint application techniques and buffing them off raised surfaces, you can mimic the look of aged leather, colored gemstones and antique patina. You can even create stylized tie-dye or two-tone blends with ombré shading. Since it’s easy to forget small steps, application techniques, and recipe amounts used during the dyeing process, be sure to record everything in your dyeing diary, recording every step and detail. When you discover a recipe, blend, or technique that has worked well, it’s easier to recreate it without guesswork or backtracking.

Once you have the color you want, allow the stained bone to air dry completely before using a sealer. Be aware that some colors may darken as they dry. So if you make a heinous mistake, you can easily remove the color with a dye remover and start over. The best you can use to remove paint from stained bones is the same thing that removes heavy Kool-Aid stains from countertops…common household bleach mixed with water in a 60/40 solution. Soak the components just long enough to remove the surface paint, then rinse with water. Gently shake or scrub with a soft brush such as a brush. B. a toothbrush, may be required. Be careful how hard you scrub surface carvings on the bone while it is in a softened state, as you may inadvertently remove some of the fine detail.

There are other ways to add color to bones. Gilders Paste® is an oil based medium, similar to shoe polish, which when applied to bone gives a beautiful pop of color to the surface. Many want to get adventurous and add a metal finish to bone beads

Metal coatings, patinas and color oxides. There are several videos in which polymer clay guru Christi Friesen shows how to add a metal layer to components

. Using a hand inking technique on your bone allows you to make your bone designs stand out from the crowd while also creating a signature look for yourself.

So go on a dye hunt and start coloring something beautiful!

Customer Comments

We would like to share some of the customer comments we received in response to the Stained Bone Components and Beads article in a newsletter. Please note that the comments expressed below are those of our customers and do not reflect the views of Fire Mountain Gems and Beads.

“Thank you for your wonderful newsletter. As a disabled person who doesn’t get out much, your newsletter is one of the highlights of my day. Thank you and keep up the good work.”

– Lynda

“Very interesting article. I was wondering if I could put watercolor paste in water and soak bone beads in it, let it dry and spray with acrylic sealer – does this idea have any chance of success? Thanks!!”

– Kathy

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Wear rubber or plastic gloves when removing the bone.

Note that the final color will be slightly lighter than the current color.

Place the bone on a piece of wax paper while it dries. Have paper towels handy to wipe up stray dye.

Remove the bone when it has been soaked in the iron salt solution long enough. Drain excess water, then set aside for several hours until dry to the touch.

Brief summary There are many different types of wood that can be used for knife shells. Ultimately, hardwoods are best for knife scales because they are very durable. Common hardwoods used for knife shells include walnut, oak, African blackwood, koa, desert ironwood, rosewood, olivewood, ebony, amboyna, bloodwood, bocote, and cocobolo.

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If you make knives, you know that the type of material you use for the scales is almost as important as the steel you choose for the blade. The right one complements the finished knife and adds to its beauty and function.

Wooden knife scales are a mainstay of knife making because they have an excellent, textured handle and look great. Other advantages are:

Wide Variety: Wood is a material that comes in a variety of colors and grains. You have several options to choose from, whether you’re making a simple table knife or an intricate artisan blade.

Sustainability: Wood is an environmentally friendly raw material. It is biodegradable and renewable, making it the scale material of choice for environmentally conscious knifemakers.

Resilience: While some wood species are not compatible with water, hardwoods and stabilized woods do not break down in wet conditions. They even handle heat well, although you should fix any visual flaws.

A high-quality knife handle is easy on the eye, feels good in the hand and lasts longer with regular care. Using wood can often save you money as it is a natural resource that is sometimes readily available without special processing or treatment.

When considering making knives with wooden shells, it can be difficult to decide which type of wood is best for your knives. The abrasives experts at Red Label Abrasives have taken the most common types of wood for knife shells and detailed the pros and cons of each type of wood below.

What types of wood are commonly used for knife scales?

Hardwoods are the best choice for knife scales because they are durable. You can maintain thin sections and subtle curves like ridges and finger grooves without chipping, chipping, or cracking. When choosing a wood, look for fine-grained options that resist stains and contamination.

walnut

Walnut is used in practically everything: furniture, kitchen fixtures, pistol grips, and more. However, if you intend to use it for knife scales, it’s a better choice for unique display items that see little use. While walnut wood looks elegant, it’s not as strong as other woods, so it’s not the best option for a knife you plan to use regularly.

Oak

Oak is a very popular choice for knife shells, and it’s easy to see why. It’s affordable and results in a beautiful, durable and strong handle. Because oak is so effortless to work with, artisan knifemakers often add inscriptions or designs to the finished handle to enhance its aesthetic value. Its unique combination of affordable price and durable composition makes it an ideal choice for useful projects such as kitchen or hunting knives.

rosewood

Like oak, rosewood is an inexpensive material for knife scales. It varies in hue from golden brown to a deep purple hue, darkening with age giving it a deep and luxurious look when buffed. Rosewood has a robust composition that makes it suitable for the most demanding applications. Many knife makers prefer Indian rosewood for its rich coloring and resistance to all manner of contaminants – even termites!

olive wood

Olive wood, native to Europe and East Africa, is a yellowish wood with darker brown or black streaks. Like rosewood, the color deepens with age. The most common applications are veneer production, turned objects and special wood pieces. Although olive wood is prone to insect infestation, you can prevent this problem by regularly maintaining your knife.

ebony

Ebony is a beautiful, luxurious wood with a rich darkness that makes it sought after for everything from luxury furniture to fine knives. It’s consequently quite expensive, but the elegant results and resilient performance make it well worth the price, especially if you want to make a knife that collectors will happily buy.

Amboyna

Amboyna is one of the most expensive woods to use for a knife handle, but you’ll definitely get your money’s worth when it comes to beauty and functionality. It is strong, stable and resistant to oxidation. Although strong enough to be used for everyday knives, the price makes Amboyna a better choice for craft knives that experience little wear and tear.

bloodwood

Bloodwood has it all: gorgeous red color, silky feel and hardwearing. When you’re looking for an exotic alternative to traditional oak, walnut or rosewood, Bloodwood delivers inspiring results. You can use it for kitchen knives, hunting knives and showpieces, but be sure to keep the color vibrant with regular cleaning and oiling.

Bocote

Bocote is an exotic yellowish color with a distinctive black stripe, making it an impressive knife handle. Bocote is also wear-resistant and versatile. However, it’s as expensive as it is stylish, making it a better choice for custom or decorative knives.

Cocobolo

If you’re looking for a super durable blade, you can’t go wrong with Central American cocobolo. Historically used to make fine furniture, musical instruments, and other specialty items, it continues to be in relatively high demand around the world.

As a knife handle, cocobolo performs well in both wet and dry conditions and resists almost anything, including insects, so the finished knife will last no matter how often you use it. Cocobolo also comes in a variety of colors including yellow, red, purple and black, allowing you to achieve different visual results.

African blackwood

As the name suggests, African Blackwood is a black colored wood that can often be completely black (with no discernible grain). African blackwood can also sometimes have a purple or dark brown hue.

African Blackwood is extremely dense and durable. It has a reputation for being metal-like because woodworkers often have to work the wood with metalworking equipment. African Blackwood is great for carving intricate details into the knife handles as its density holds those details well.

desert ironwood

Desert ironwood is one of the hardest and most stable woods known to man. The color usually ranges from an orange-yellow to a darker red or brown. Desert Ironwood is heavy and can provide a good counterbalance for longer blades. The stability of desert ironwood makes it relatively easy to work with.

koa wood

Koa is a very expensive and highly sought after wood because of its beautiful appearance and the fact that it only grows in Hawaii. Koa can be found in shades of yellow, gold, red, pink, and brown. Not many woods possess the range of colors or hues that koa does. Koa is relatively easy to work with. It is a hard and durable wood that is well suited for knife handles.

Stabilized laminates

Some knife makers use stabilized laminates, which are birch plywood products. This material is made by injecting dye and polymer or phenolic resin into the wood under high vacuum pressure before it is pressed into blocks of plywood. The result is a strong, durable wood product that is virtually waterproof.

Stabilized woods

Stabilized woods have been treated to overcome issues such as weakness and porosity. The treatment process is similar to stabilized laminates, and the resulting wood is durable, long-lasting, and uniquely colored. If you wish to use a wood that is not inherently self-sealing or resinous, stabilizing it can be made suitable for wet applications such as kitchens or marine environments.

Grinding and finishing knife scales

When it comes to shaping and finishing your knife shells, you should use abrasives that are best suited for the task. Choosing the right abrasive will give better results and increase the life of the abrasive itself.

Alumina abrasives are commonly used for woodworking and can be used to shape knife shells. When sanding hardwood, it’s safe to use a ceramic or zirconia abrasive for durability. Just watch your speed to avoid getting burned. Most knife makers like to use J-Weight grinding belts when shaping scales because they are great for getting into tight spaces and conforming to curves. J. Neilson loves our J-Flex Cotton Finishing Belts for grips and we also offer a serrated version if you’re working in very tight spaces. Our abrasives specialists can help you decide which abrasive is best for your application if you need assistance.

High-quality abrasives are essential for a beautiful transition from the knife bowl to the knife handle. at

Red Label Abrasives

, we sell comprehensively

Knifemaker Kits

with the grinding materials you need for excellent results. If you would like to place an order or speak to a grinding technician, please call 844-824-1956 or

fill out our contact form

.

Antler is an ideal natural material for use as a knife handle. It is sustainable as it is shed each year by the bucks or stags after the rut. If you keep your eyes peeled, you’ll find them scattered on the forest floor. Antler is amazingly strong – I’ve punched holes in sheet steel with antler, more often you’ll find me pounding flint, using the strength and toughness of antler to break and chip rock. As a natural material, it is warm, non-slip and offers good grip even when wet.

Using the crown of antlers as a knife handle is VERY easy. You can either leave the section you want in water for a month as a handle to soften it, or boil it for an hour (depending on size) to accomplish the same task — although you’ll trade some toughness in the bone — for that Speed. Whichever method you use, the pithy, porous core of the antler softens and you can then gently slide it onto the tang of your blade. In a few hours the antlers will dry out, shrink and grip the tang, then harden. A bit like nature’s epoxy.

Cut off a piece of antler – preferably the crown end (base) or if there is a decent prong (point) – this way you make sure the end of the handle is solid bone and not porous “marrow” – the end of the antler Prongs and especially the base (crown) are often very solid.

Make sure the length of your rod is shorter than the length of the handle – also note that the porous core gets much denser towards the crown or ends of a prong meaning you will have trouble pushing the rod in , if this is long.

Clean up the section of antler: Carve, grind, and remove any prongs that limit its use as a handle. Be careful not to remove too much of the outer bone – you could expose the more porous core.

Soak or cook the section of antler – the portion pictured in this post was small and cooked for about 45 minutes.

Get tongs and a heavy glove once you’ve cooked it – it’ll be HOT when you need to remove it!

Glue or protect the blade or protect yourself from the blade. Either secure the blade in a vise (use some leather or padding to protect the blade from the vise jaws) or drive the knife firmly into some wood with the tang pointing up.

Simply remove the soaked antlers from the water and press the antlers firmly onto the blade, being careful not to cut or crush yourself (make sure the blade is well covered and also wear a heavy glove).

DO NOT wiggle the blade to get it in as this will ruin the seat of the antlers on the tang. Do not pull out to reposition. You can try it once – do it well!

And that’s it… let it dry and shrink it onto the tang. Overnight will do.

Then finish the knife with a plain sheath.

Camel Bone | knife handle material

KnifeKits.com offers a wide range of camel bone knife handle scales. We offer a wide range of camel bone grip materials including smooth radius scales, pen blanks and natural camel bone scales. We recommend this camel bone knife handle material for its durability and good looks. Add these camel bone handle materials to your next knife making project.

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It is beneficial to apply a small amount of oil to the wooden handle of your knife. Oiling the wooden handle will saturate the pores, preventing water absorption. There are a variety of wood oils you can buy at knife stores, but if you have canola, mineral, or coconut oil, these work great. Simply put a few drops of your favorite oil on the handle and rub in with a paper towel. Allow the oil to soak into the wooden handle for one to two hours. You should oil the handle of your wooden knife at least a couple of times a year as this will maintain the longevity and performance of your knife.

Diaphonated mouse by Sadie Stednitz, copyright Chad Lowe

You’ve probably seen diaphonized creatures in natural history museums, where transparent specimens of dead fish, frogs, and snakes float in crystalline flasks. Unlike the taxidermy’s stuffed birds and mounted deer heads, these specimens are transparent, literally offering a window into their skeletal structure—enhanced by the rich reds, purples, and blues that highlight their bones and cartilage. Scientists have used diaphonation techniques for decades, but more recently artists have also picked up the practice. Atlas Obscura decided to take a closer look at this unique form of preparation.

First introduced in 1977 by scientists G. Dingerkus and L.D. Uhler also knows the process of diaphonization as “clearing and staining”. By bathing them in a trypsin soup, a digestive enzyme that slowly breaks down their flesh, the animals are rendered transparent (the “clearing”). They also soak multiple batches of bone, muscle, or cartilage dye (the “dye”), with alizarin red and alcian blue being the most commonly used.

Diaphonated Serpent by Sadie Stednitz, copyright Chad Lowe

The results are simultaneously visually striking and chemically intense. As biologist Sadie Stednitz explained, “The appeal of diaphonized specimens is that they are beautiful physical objects that also give us an understanding of biology.”

Stednitz owns California-based Studio Pollex, which sells diaphonated pieces along with more well-known taxidermy. Stednitz told Atlas Obscura, “I mainly work with animals that are available for dissection: rats, mice, frogs, fish, and snakes.” But not all creatures lend themselves to the technique traditionally used to study animal skeletal structure. Large birds and mammals have feathers and fur that are difficult to remove. Additionally, both types of creatures are commonly taxidermied and can easily be dry-preserved.

Other factors are also important: “It can take up to six months to complete a large rat, so time is a big factor,” Stednitz said. “The denser and larger the weave, the longer it takes for stains to reach it. Anything that affects the chemistry of the dyes can [also] cause problems. For example, some dyes only work in an acidic solution, and some animal tissues do not do well in such an environment.”

In fact, the technique is most commonly used on specimens less than a foot in length. Thin-skinned amphibians, fish and reptiles are particularly suitable for diaphonization, as their tissues are often too sensitive to be prepared and must be preserved in liquids. For this reason, young mammals and birds are also suitable. By avoiding invasive measures, diaphonization helps scientists identify bone and cartilage structures as they exist in the body without displacement. The technique is also particularly useful for studying fetal organisms in the laboratory.

With a crystal-clear view of the subject’s interior, scientists can also observe the direct effects of environmental pollutants. Diaphonist Brandon Ballengée pioneered the field, using cleaned and pickled frogs to highlight deformities such as extra limbs. In addition, fetuses provide crucial insight into how these chemicals affect normal growth and development.

As Stednitz states, “Comparative anatomy is another application; If you want to visually demonstrate the evolutionary relationships between different species, the skeleton is a good place to start because it’s easy to see how one body plan can be modified for many different tasks.”

Diaphonized copies created by Sadie Stednitz, image copyright Chad Lowe

Despite its merits, diaphonization is not widely used in this field due to its delicate and time-consuming nature. Advances in imaging technology have also made the practice uncommon. However, diaphonization is increasingly becoming an art form. Animals that are predominantly cartilaginous, such as rays and sharks, appear blue due to cartilage coloration, while bony fish, mammals, and reptiles mostly appear red due to bone coloration. Purple shades can even be seen on muscle patches. With such a range of vibrant spots and animals to choose from, the creative possibilities are endless.

The diaphony is not well known to the general public, apart from a handful of collectors looking for curiosities. Fortunately, this trend is slowly changing with the presence of Studio Pollex and the unveiling of other diaphonists such as Iori Tomita and Dr. Adam Summers. Tomita’s work has been exhibited across Japan, including at the Tokyo Mineral Show, while Dr. Summers was featured in an exhibit entitled “Cleared: The Art of Science” at the Seattle Aquarium, which opened December 1, 2013 and will be on display until early June (when it will tour).

Diaphonized Frog by Sadie Stednitz, copyright Chad Lowe

Luckily, these great anatomical works can also be found in several nature museums. The cleaned and colored specimens are often housed in collections of ichthyology (fish) or herpetology (reptiles and amphibians). Some notable places are the Field Museum of Natural History, the Royal British Columbia Museum, the Texas Natural Science Center, the Yale Peabody Museum of Natural History, the Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture, the Carnegie Museum of Natural History, and the Zoology Museum the University of Alberta. Many of these sites serve as repositories for research. For example, the Carnegie Museum of Natural History has one of the largest herpetological collections in the United States. The Burke Museum has an ichthyology collection with 324 lots of cleaned and pickled fish. The Field Museum of Natural History has an online searchable database of diaphonated fish that lists the international locations of specimens.

But no matter where, the sight of a diaphonated animal is immediately appealing. Stednitz sums it up best by saying, “Visibility, color, and presentation are important factors for both academic and artistic specimens.” Indeed, the process of diaphonization so aptly combines art and science that it brings new life to the dead and new paint revived.

Diaphonized copy by Sadie Stednitz, copyright Chad Lowe

Diaphonized copy by Sadie Stednitz, copyright Chad Lowe