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Table of Contents
How long does it take for a succulent leaf to callus?
You must wait 3-15 days for calluses to form on the ends of the leaf. A callus is like a scab for the plant – it prevents loss of water and invasion by diseases. It is imperative that the leaves receive no water during the callus formation process.
How do I know if my succulent stem is calloused?
If you are propagating plants with soft and thin stems, do not wait until these develop calluses. These cuttings tend to dry up quickly and wilt when exposed to the air. Wilting and drying up are signs that the cutting is under severe stress.
How do you callus a succulent leaf?
- Trim off any rotten bits from your cutting. …
- Allow the cut end to dry (callus) for at least 4 or 5 days. …
- After the end calluses, plant the cactus in a pot filled with stones or volcanic rock on the bottom, and then well drained organic cactus mix that is no more than moist.
How do I get my succulents to callus?
A: Succulents are easy to propagate but you do need to callus the end of the stem or leaf petiole before you place it in soil. To callus, take the leaf or stem cutting from the mother plant, place it in a warm dry place out of direct sunlight. It works best if the cuttings receive bright light but no direct sunlight.
Calloused Succulent
master gardener
Q: I have admired the large succulent wall hangings but cringe at the price of these beautiful succulent arrangements. Can you tell me how to start my own succulents? I have several small succulents and I’ve heard they are easy to root, but every time I’ve tried the cuttings rot before they root.
A: Succulents are easy to propagate, but you must callous the end of the stem or petiole before planting it in the ground. To pick callus, take the leaf or stem cuttings from the mother plant and place in a warm, dry place out of direct sunlight. It works best when the cuttings receive bright light but not direct sunlight. When you take the leaf off the mother plant, make sure you get the entire leaf—you don’t want to break the petiole end off the leaf. I like to let the cuttings sit for about a week before planting them in soil. You can plant them in soil earlier if the stem end, or the part where the leaf was attached to the stem, is calloused. The callus is where the end dries and hardens a bit.
Once the succulent leaf has hardened, lay the leaf flat on a good cactus soil mix. Good drainage and aeration of the soil is important to prevent the cuttings from rotting. If you don’t have cactus soil, you can change up traditional potting soil by adding 50 percent coarse perlite or pumice to improve drainage. Cuttings can be stuck into the ground or placed on top. You can place the cuttings directly into one of the wall containers or frames and use the leaf or stem cuttings to create attractive looking designs. Leave these lying flat in an area that gets bright light but little direct sunlight. Once the succulents start to root and grow into plants you will have a beautiful design that you can then hang on a wall or post.
Water sparingly while the cuttings root. You want the soil to remain slightly moist but never wet. Water management is one of the biggest factors in keeping succulents healthy. Succulents like to approach drought before watering.
Succulents like an environment with good quality light but not too much direct sunlight. This is especially important for the Redding area where we get relentless sunlight in the summer. Place your succulents against a north-facing wall or in a light shade where they will only get a few hours of morning sun during the hotter months of the year. This allows the plants to thrive and develop good color without getting sunburned or drying out.
The Shasta Master Gardeners Program can be reached by calling 242-2219 or emailing [email protected]. The gardener’s office is staffed by volunteers trained by the University of California to answer gardeners’ questions with information based on scientific research.
Do you bury succulent leaves?
Before being buried in soil, the beheaded part need to be let dry for a few days to prevent moisture from causing rot. Next, plant it in soil and water a few times per week when the soil is dry. With stem propagation, it can take about 4 weeks or even longer for roots to form.
Calloused Succulent
By the way, are you looking for a 2022 calendar? We are offering a free 2022 printable calendar as a small gift for your continued support of Succulents Box. It comes in cute monthly succulent and cactus themes to love!!
Tips for succulent propagation from leaves and cuttings
A step-by-step guide to propagation from leaves and cuttings
3 main techniques for propagating succulents
Propagation is the act of creating a new plant using an element of the parent stock. This element can be a leaf, cutting, cutting or seed of a mature plant. When it comes to succulent propagation, there are three main interesting techniques you could try:
Dry propagation, or also known as air propagation, is an easy way to expand your succulent garden without much effort. This technique can be performed by placing succulent elements on a tray for propagation.
Aquatic propagation is the process of rooting succulent elements in water.
Soil propagation is a common method of propagating succulents by placing the calloused element on top of the well-drained soil.
The main focus of this blog is how to propagate succulents using the soil propagation technique.
How to propagate succulents from leaves
To start, you can just grab a leaf that has fallen off your succulents. This is preferred when you are hesitant about removing a leaf from your perfect succulent or simply afraid of not removing a leaf properly. When looking for fallen leaves, be careful to select only full and plump ones for better success. If you don’t have any fallen leaves, just go ahead and carefully remove one from the stem. Because succulents, especially Echeveria, are delicate, gently pull a leaf by holding the stem and using a twisting motion to pull the leaf completely off the plant. Poor cuttings can result in the leaves failing to root.
Place the leaves on a paper towel until the cut ends are dry to prevent them from rotting when planted. After letting the leaves dry on the paper towel for a few days, place them on some succulent or cactus soil.
Succulent Leaf Propagation: Examples of Good Pruning and Bad Pruning. Photo credit: craftsy.com
Give the foliage bright and filtered sunlight and mist them with water when the soil dries up, probably a few times a week. Generally, roots will begin to sprout after about 2 weeks and baby plants will appear in about 8 weeks. However, the amount of time will vary as it depends on the type of succulent you are trying to propagate, the time of year, temperature and humidity.
Give the leaves bright and filtered sunlight
How and when to plant propagated succulent leaves
How to propagate succulents with cuttings
Stem propagation works best on succulents that have multiple stems or branches. That being said, echeverias are probably not the best succulent to propagate from stems as they don’t grow too high out of the pot or soil. However, ideal for this method are Echeveria that have become blunted, i.e. have become long-legged due to the lack of sunlight. First you need to decide which cutting position you prefer. There are five different types of cuttings you can try to create your own beautiful succulents. The five different ways are labeled A, B, C, D and E in the image below to indicate different cutting purposes.
5 pruning positions for propagating succulents with cuttings
A – Cutting off this high on the stem is called “pinching”. The reason for pinching so high on the plant stem is to create growth for multiple cuttings or to develop the plants into a multi-headed plant. Pruning this high will force side stems to grow, which will themselves be viable cuttings once fully grown. The top part that is cut off is not a viable cutting and will not root, so just discard it.
B – Pruning here is optimal for creating a new plant from the top and forcing new shoots to grow from the stem. This method works best when a few leaves remain on the stem, allowing it to recover more efficiently and produce the most new stems.
C – Cutting at this mark is officially known as deadhead. A pruning performed here will result in a plant that takes root easily. The stalk will most likely not develop shoots and may slowly die off.
D – Cutting lower on the stem creates a longer stem, but takes much longer to root. The lower stem may produce a few shoots, but may also wither.
E – It is not recommended to cut the trunk further down as the head will have to work hard to establish and the lower trunk will likely die off.
Once the cutting position is chosen, you can use sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut a piece of the succulent through the stem. With etiolated succulents, the leaves can be removed from the side of the stem. Cutting off the stem results in two parts, the head and the stump, all of which can be used for propagation.
Cutting the stem yields two parts: the head and the stump, all of which can be used for succulent propagation
Before burying in the ground, the decapitated part needs to dry for a few days to prevent moisture from causing rot. Next, plant it in soil and water a few times a week when the soil is dry. Stem propagation can take around 4 weeks or even longer for roots to form.
Plant the decapitated portion to propagate succulents
You can leave the stump in the old pot or transplant it into a new pot with new soil mix. Baby plants will grow around the stem in a few weeks, replacing the leaves that we removed before planting.
Leave the stump in the old pot or transplant it with new soil to propagate succulents
Photo credit: pieceofeden.blogspot.com
HOW TO PROPAGATE SUCCULENTS FROM OFFSETS
Most succulent parents prefer to propagate their babies from set pieces as it is easier compared to using leaves or cuttings. Propagation with offsets is amazingly simple and easy, perfect for those who don’t want to wait for the plant to develop leaves. Some succulents like Haworthia are perfect for this method.
Propagate Haworthia from offsets
To ensure the cuttings have the right nutrients to survive on their own after separation from the mother plant, it is highly recommended to wait until they are about half the size of the mother plant. Initially you may want to consider removing the plant from its container as this will allow you to locate the root offset from the mother plant. This is also an opportunity to examine the root system and repot the plant. Then simply peel off the rooted mother succulent by gently twisting. Don’t worry if some roots are snapped as this is a chance for the offset to grow their own roots. Allow the offsets to dry for about 1 to 1 day after they have been successfully peeled off. Once they have dried, plant them in well-drained cactus soil and water them well.
Haworthia offsets in well-drained soil mix
Propagation from cuttings can be done by growing cuttings from the rooted mother plant or by cutting off the stem of the cutting. So if you want to give stem cuttings a try, you can scroll up to read our instructions on how to cut properly. Be sure to use only sterilized pruning tools. Allow your cuttings to dry out, then place them in well-drained potting soil. Roots should form within a few weeks.
Maintaining the offsets is very simple. You should give them a few hours of morning sunlight or afternoon shade to avoid dying or sunburn. A green thumb rule is that you only water them well with water when the soil is completely dry.
And voila! How to propagate your succulents and create your own growing garden like a pro. Not too complicated right? We recommend experimenting with multiple leaves and cuttings to find the right amount of light and water that works for your succulents and stimulates new growth. Let us know how your propagation journey goes!
Watch this short video to see 4 mistakes to avoid when propagating succulents
Watch this short video to see how to propagate succulents for beginners
You can read our other articles on propagating succulents as follows:
For species of succulent care guide. Read more information here.
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Do succulent Propagations need sunlight?
Succulent leaf propagation do not need too much sunlight. Put them in an airy and bright place will help them do better. Pups do not do well under extreme heat or too much direct sunlight. Also, if your succulent does not show new growth close to leaf, then it means your plant needs more light to grow.
Calloused Succulent
Although it can be a bit tricky, after reading this article you will be able to propagate your existing succulents without any worries. There is no denying that mistakes can be made when propagating succulents. But studying beforehand can help you avoid making these mistakes.
1. Overhydration
Too much watering often does more harm than good
Before you dig in, there are a few points you need to keep in mind as you won’t always get a 100% success rate. Very often each leaf behaves differently during propagation. Some might grow a baby succulent while others might grow the roots. In fact, some succulents can grow up to six hatchlings.
Too much watering often does more harm than good. If you are propagating the soil, only lightly mist the soil each day when the roots appear. If you’re doing air propagation, you might even want to leave the leaves as they are without watering. Too much water will rot the mother leaves and the pup will die as well.
2. Incorrect amount of light
It’s one of the biggest propagation mistakes gardeners have to contend with: Foliar propagation needs lots of direct, bright sunlight. It is the opposite. Intense sunlight will burn your leaves. Succulent leaf propagation does not require too much sunlight. Put them in an airy and bright place so they do better. Puppies don’t do well in extreme heat or too much direct sunlight.
If your succulent isn’t showing new growth near the leaves, it also means your plant needs more light to grow.
3. Selection of parent sheet
Choose plump and healthy leaves to increase the propagation success rate
To become a successful propmaster, you cannot ignore the step of choosing parent sheets. Before you remove the foliage from the mother plant, make sure your succulent is properly watered and all of its leaves look plump and healthy. To increase your success rate, avoid these types of leaves when propagating:
Broken Leaves: Your succulents will not root until the leaves have been cleanly removed from the parent stem.
Young, Small Leaves: While you can reproduce from small leaves, it takes longer to grow succulent babies. This is because small leaves do not have enough nutrients to support new growth.
Overwatered or dried leaves
Nature always gives the best genes a chance to survive. The ideal leaves for propagation are therefore lower, more mature and plumper leaves.
Succulent Propagation: Frequently Asked Questions
What is the idea of using rooting hormones in foliar propagation?
The leaves of succulents contain nutrients that they must receive until new roots develop, a seedling is established, and the leaf wilts. In other words, you don’t have to do anything until the mother leaf has dried. The mother leaf provides all the nutrients and water for the seedling.
Why do leaves turn to pulp or rot?
Watering your new plant more frequently will leave it with soggy soil, which can cause the leaves to rot. Not to mention, the leaves never absorb water until the roots have developed. If you see leaves rotting before roots develop, add a layer of pumice stone to the soil and place the leaves on top. It keeps the leaves out of the wet soil and gives the roots the moisture to grow. Also, avoid misting the leaves, otherwise it will cause the leaves to rot.
What is the correct lighting setting for the plant when propagating?
If you’re propagating the plant outdoors, your leaves will love a bright but shady spot that gets indirect sunlight. Indoors, you should place it near a south-facing window.
When do the leaves stop sending out roots?
Areas with dry and extremely dry climates can disrupt root growth. If you have propagated your succulent a month earlier and are not seeing any root development, it may be due to your climatic conditions. In this case, fill a tray with soil and layer in perlite or pumice when propagating the plant. The pumice or perlite keeps the leaves off the wet soil and up, which helps prevent rot.
Why are the leaves constantly moving?
If you live in a region that gets moderate to strong winds, make sure you pin the leaves of your growing succulent. It prevents them from falling off and promotes healthy growth. You can pin the foliage with a thin wire. Bend the 1.5 inch wire into a horseshoe shape and pin the leaves until the roots form.
Why do the roots wither or dry out during propagation?
Frequently picking up leaves from succulents can result in dead roots. Since they have delicate roots, you should be very careful when handling the plant.
What to do if your roots are not covered with soil?
Sprinkle a small amount of soil on the roots to cover them. It prevents the roots from drying out. When watering the plant, be careful not to get the leaves wet, otherwise they may rot. Instead, water the soil in front of the leaf side; It promotes root growth and prevents rot.
What is the best time to remove the mother leaf?
Do not remove the mother leaf until it has dried out as it will provide the growing plant with all the energy and nutrients it needs. If you remove the pups too soon, especially if their roots aren’t strong enough, the chance for them to survive on their own is very slim. Wait for the mother leaves to dry and they will fall off the babies automatically.
Can all succulent leaves be propagated?
Foliage reproduction is not every succulent: Aeonium and Sempervivum do not do well with foliar reproduction. Sedum and Echeveria with plump leaves have a better chance of leaf reproduction.
All in all, foliar propagation is fairly easy and doesn’t require too much knowledge or experience. Don’t be afraid to fail, your experience will grow over time and sooner or later you will become a successful prop master.
Watch this short video to see 4 mistakes to avoid when propagating succulents
Watch this short video to see how to propagate succulents in water
Watch this short video to see how to propagate succulents for beginners
You can read our other articles on propagating succulents as follows:
If you found this article interesting, share it with your succulent loving friends!
And get a free plant when your friends place an order. Sign up here!
Learn more about how to care for and enjoy lots of beautiful succulents, as well as clever decorating tips, with our newsletter. Let’s sign up!
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What does it mean to let a plant callus?
callus, In botany, soft tissue that forms over a wounded or cut plant surface, leading to healing. A callus arises from cells of the cambium. When a callus forms, some of its cells may organize into growing points, some of which in turn give rise to roots while others produce stems and leaves.
Calloused Succulent
How long do you let succulent cuttings dry?
Once you’ve taken your cutting or leaf, it’s important to let it dry out a little bit before you do anything else. Depending on the amount of heat and sunlight, you’ll want to leave the leaf or cutting alone for one to three days, so it can scab over.
Calloused Succulent
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When I first started researching succulents, I kept reading about how easy they were to care for and propagate.
While it’s true that succulents are much easier to propagate than many other plants, growing them in my arid Utah climate was a bit of a challenge for me!
However, I did figure out a few tricks that made it easier – and I’ll share them with you now.
To help you even further, first download my free cheat sheet to see what problems you might encounter when propagating succulents from leaves and how to fix them. Click here to get this, it will be super helpful.
In this post I will show you the techniques I use to propagate succulents from leaves. Not all of these tips apply to every climate — but they worked for me.
Pen
How to remove a leaf for propagation
The genus and species of your succulent will determine what type of pruning you can take. For example, most tender Sedums and some Echeverias can be propagated from either a leaf or a cutting – although I use leaves for both.
Aeoniums, on the other hand, only work with cuttings, meaning you can’t propagate them with just one leaf. In other words, every succulent species is different – so if you’re not sure what works, experiment (like me) and see what happens! First, click here to check out these seven succulents that I think are super easy to propagate.
To take a leaf for propagation, simply gently twist the leaf off the stem. Make sure it’s a clean draw and nothing is left on the stick. In fact, it’s okay to rip off a little of the stem as well.
Every time I’ve snapped off a leaf just short of the stem, it’s always died – so make sure you get all the way down to the stem. It helps to have a clear view of the base of the sheet as you peel it off.
Pen
Pen
If you don’t feel like removing a leaf from your own plant, don’t worry! You can actually buy leaves to use in propagating The Succulents Source. Click here to buy and start propagating!
It’s a really inexpensive way to start a collection of new plants, and sooooo much fun to propagate succulents and watch these little babies grow from just a leaf!
How to take a cutting for propagation
On the other hand, to make a cut you will need sharp scissors or pruning shears (I use these and absolutely love them!). Cut a piece of the succulent just above a leaf on the stem.
You can cut off the top of the succulent or cut off a new offshoot. Both will work!
Pen
Allow your leaf or cuttings to dry out
After you’ve taken your cutting or leaf, it’s important to let it dry a bit before doing anything else. Depending on the amount of heat and sunlight, you should leave the leaf or cutting alone for one to three days to allow scab to form.
If the leaf or cutting is not given a chance to crust, it will take on too much water the first time it is watered and will drown. It’s okay if the cutting starts to shrink a bit. Once that happens, it’s time to start watering.
Water your leaf or cut it
While mature succulents don’t need to be watered every day, leaves and cuttings do. However, you should avoid giving them too much water or they will turn orange-brown and die.
Here’s what I think works best…
If you’re working with leaves, lay them in the soil, making sure their ends aren’t touching the soil at all, and water them each time the soil dries out. I use a spray bottle to wet the surface of the soil.
Some experts recommend sticking the cut end of the leaf into the soil – but most of the leaves I tried to plant this way either rotted or just formed roots but never started a new plant.
Unlike leaves, cuttings must be planted in the ground. As they are already almost fully grown succulents, all they need to do is plant and water them and they will begin to take root!
Like leaves, cuttings should be watered any time you notice the soil is dry. Once you’ve established your watering pattern, your cuttings will begin to shed new roots and leaves within a few weeks.
Wait for results
It takes time for new rosettes and roots to form on succulent leaves and cuttings. The time it takes depends on the time of year, the temperature of the area you are propagating in, the type of succulent you are propagating, the humidity, etc.
However, you can generally expect results within 2-3 weeks.
Here you can see a continuously updated set of leaf propagation photos.
Pen
If you notice a rosette growing on your leaf but no roots, don’t stress out 🙂 This is normal. The leaf provides all the nutrients the baby succulent needs to grow. As it grows larger, it begins to shed roots while “looking” for water.
Keeping the leaves in moist soil can help encourage root development.
Success rate of succulent propagation
If some of your cuttings or leaves die off, don’t worry – more than half of my first batch didn’t make it. Some won’t grow as much as their siblings, while others will put up some roots but no leaves. Every cutting is different and it’s perfectly normal to lose some!
When your new plants start to grow, make sure the roots are covered with soil or they will dry out and your plants will likely stop growing.
When to plant propagated succulents
Most succulents take several months to grow to “normal” size—while some can take up to a year. In other words, this isn’t a super-fast process – but it works!
Once you start seeing roots, cover them with soil. This way they stay cool and have access to water. Keep watering to keep the soil moist.
You don’t need to do anything with the mother sheet. As the baby succulent grows larger, the mother leaf will begin to shrivel and die. This is perfectly normal and the mother leaf will fall off and separate from the baby leaf on its own.
Once this happens, continue to provide plenty of water for the baby succulent. Once well rooted and growing on its own, you can transplant it to another pot or arrange it in a different arrangement.
You can see how I plant my propagated babies here:
While they can technically be repotted at any time, I recommend waiting until the new baby is at least an inch or more in diameter. It is also best if the baby has a deep root system.
After the baby is in his new home, make sure you water him enough to keep him growing.
Give it a try and you’ll soon be addicted to propagating your plants!
And if you haven’t already, be sure to get my free cheat sheet to see what problems you might encounter when propagating succulents from leaves and how to fix them. Click here to get the cheat sheet.
Can you put succulent cuttings straight into soil?
After the cutting has been taken it cannot be planted in the soil right away. Set the cutting aside in a dry location for 24 hours to let the ‘injured’ stem of the cutting callous over. After 24 hours, the stem should be healed and not look ‘wet’ in any areas.
Calloused Succulent
Succulent cuttings are often used for floral arrangements, wedding bouquets, and even as cake decorations. They have a long life, surviving for weeks without soil as cut foliage, making them ideal ‘living decorations’. Succulent cuttings aren’t just for show, though! Plant them and give them a little love and you’ll soon have a new succulent. The best part is, it costs next to nothing! All you need is pruning shears (or sharp scissors), soil and some small pots to plant the cuttings.
When to take succulent cuttings
Prune your succulents in the spring or summer months for the best success. While succulent cuttings can technically be taken at any time, removing them when the succulents are in their active growth phase helps ensure that the mother plant recovers from pruning and that the new succulent has the strength to survive on its own.
How to find a good cut
When your succulent develops offshoots or young plants, these can be cut off and planted in the same way as regular succulent cuttings. Otherwise, take a section of areas that need trimming or shaping. Large, established succulents can handle pruning more easily than others and can recover from larger cuttings. Smaller succulents require smaller cuttings, so keep that in mind.
Almost all succulents are easily propagated from cuttings, although some types of succulents (like furry/hairy succulents) are generally more difficult to propagate than others. Your success rate may depend on what type of succulent you are propagating.
How long does it take for aloe to callus?
The cut-end of the aloe stem must be allowed to dry out for seven to 10 days, or until it looks white and has formed a callus. Keep it in a dry, airy spot out of direct sunlight.
Calloused Succulent
What is in a callus?
Corns and calluses are thick, hardened layers of skin that develop when the skin tries to protect itself against friction or pressure. They often form on feet and toes or hands and fingers. If you’re healthy, you don’t need treatment for corns and calluses unless they cause pain or you don’t like how they look.
Calloused Succulent
Corns and calluses are thick, hardened layers of skin that form when the skin tries to protect itself against friction or pressure. They often form on the feet and toes or hands and fingers.
If you’re healthy, you don’t need treatment for corns and calluses unless they’re causing pain or you don’t like the way they look. For most people, simply removing the source of the friction or pressure will make corns and calluses go away.
symptoms
Corns Open pop-up dialog Close Corns Corns have a hard center and tend to develop on the tips and sides of the toes. They can be painful.
Callus Open pop-up dialog Close Callus Callus Callus usually develops on the soles of the feet and palms. They can vary in size and shape and are rarely painful.
Calluses Open pop-up dialog Close Calluses Calluses Calluses often develop on the palms of the hands. They can vary in size and shape and are rarely painful. Playing instruments or using hand tools can cause calluses on the hands.
Signs and symptoms of corns and calluses include:
A thick, rough area of skin
A hardened, raised bump
tenderness or pain under the skin
Flaky, dry, or waxy skin
Corns and calluses are not the same.
Corns are smaller and deeper than calluses and have a hard center surrounded by swollen skin. They can be painful when pressed. Hard corns often form on the top of the toes or on the outer edge of the little toe. Soft corns tend to form between the toes.
are smaller and deeper than calluses and have a hard center surrounded by swollen skin. They can be painful when pressed. Hard corns often form on the top of the toes or on the outer edge of the little toe. Soft corns tend to form between the toes. Calluses are rarely painful and are more likely to develop on pressure points such as the heels, balls of the feet, palms and knees. They can vary in size and shape and are often larger than corns.
When to the doctor
If a corn or callus is very painful or inflamed, contact your doctor. If you have diabetes or poor circulation, consult a doctor before treating a corn or callus yourself. This is important because even a minor injury to your foot can result in an infected open sore (ulcer).
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causes
Corns and calluses are caused by friction and pressure from repeated impacts. Some sources of this friction and pressure are:
Wear ill-fitting shoes and socks. Tight shoes and high heels can constrict areas of the feet. If your shoes are loose, your foot can slip and rub against the shoe repeatedly. Your foot may also rub against a seam or sting in the shoe. Socks that don’t fit properly can also be a problem.
Tight shoes and high heels can constrict areas of the feet. If your shoes are loose, your foot can slip and rub against the shoe repeatedly. Your foot may also rub against a seam or sting in the shoe. Socks that don’t fit properly can also be a problem. skip socks. Wearing shoes and sandals without socks can cause friction on your feet.
Wearing shoes and sandals without socks can cause friction on your feet. play instruments or use hand tools. Calluses on the hands can result from repetitive pressure from activities such as playing instruments and using hand tools or even a pen.
Calluses on the hands can result from repetitive pressure from activities such as playing instruments and using hand tools or even a pen. Inheritance of a tendency to develop corns. The type of corns that form on non-weight bearing areas like the soles of the feet and palms (punctate keratosis) could be genetic.
complications
If you have diabetes or another condition that causes poor blood flow to your feet, you are at a higher risk of complications from corns and calluses.
prevention
These approaches can help you prevent corns and calluses:
How long do you let succulent cuttings dry?
Once you’ve taken your cutting or leaf, it’s important to let it dry out a little bit before you do anything else. Depending on the amount of heat and sunlight, you’ll want to leave the leaf or cutting alone for one to three days, so it can scab over.
Calloused Succulent
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When I first started researching succulents, I kept reading about how easy they were to care for and propagate.
While it’s true that succulents are much easier to propagate than many other plants, growing them in my arid Utah climate was a bit of a challenge for me!
However, I did figure out a few tricks that made it easier – and I’ll share them with you now.
To help you even further, first download my free cheat sheet to see what problems you might encounter when propagating succulents from leaves and how to fix them. Click here to get this, it will be super helpful.
In this post I will show you the techniques I use to propagate succulents from leaves. Not all of these tips apply to every climate — but they worked for me.
Pen
How to remove a leaf for propagation
The genus and species of your succulent will determine what type of pruning you can take. For example, most tender Sedums and some Echeverias can be propagated from either a leaf or a cutting – although I use leaves for both.
Aeoniums, on the other hand, only work with cuttings, meaning you can’t propagate them with just one leaf. In other words, every succulent species is different – so if you’re not sure what works, experiment (like me) and see what happens! First, click here to check out these seven succulents that I think are super easy to propagate.
To take a leaf for propagation, simply gently twist the leaf off the stem. Make sure it’s a clean draw and nothing is left on the stick. In fact, it’s okay to rip off a little of the stem as well.
Every time I’ve snapped off a leaf just short of the stem, it’s always died – so make sure you get all the way down to the stem. It helps to have a clear view of the base of the sheet as you peel it off.
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If you don’t feel like removing a leaf from your own plant, don’t worry! You can actually buy leaves to use in propagating The Succulents Source. Click here to buy and start propagating!
It’s a really inexpensive way to start a collection of new plants, and sooooo much fun to propagate succulents and watch these little babies grow from just a leaf!
How to take a cutting for propagation
On the other hand, to make a cut you will need sharp scissors or pruning shears (I use these and absolutely love them!). Cut a piece of the succulent just above a leaf on the stem.
You can cut off the top of the succulent or cut off a new offshoot. Both will work!
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Allow your leaf or cuttings to dry out
After you’ve taken your cutting or leaf, it’s important to let it dry a bit before doing anything else. Depending on the amount of heat and sunlight, you should leave the leaf or cutting alone for one to three days to allow scab to form.
If the leaf or cutting is not given a chance to crust, it will take on too much water the first time it is watered and will drown. It’s okay if the cutting starts to shrink a bit. Once that happens, it’s time to start watering.
Water your leaf or cut it
While mature succulents don’t need to be watered every day, leaves and cuttings do. However, you should avoid giving them too much water or they will turn orange-brown and die.
Here’s what I think works best…
If you’re working with leaves, lay them in the soil, making sure their ends aren’t touching the soil at all, and water them each time the soil dries out. I use a spray bottle to wet the surface of the soil.
Some experts recommend sticking the cut end of the leaf into the soil – but most of the leaves I tried to plant this way either rotted or just formed roots but never started a new plant.
Unlike leaves, cuttings must be planted in the ground. As they are already almost fully grown succulents, all they need to do is plant and water them and they will begin to take root!
Like leaves, cuttings should be watered any time you notice the soil is dry. Once you’ve established your watering pattern, your cuttings will begin to shed new roots and leaves within a few weeks.
Wait for results
It takes time for new rosettes and roots to form on succulent leaves and cuttings. The time it takes depends on the time of year, the temperature of the area you are propagating in, the type of succulent you are propagating, the humidity, etc.
However, you can generally expect results within 2-3 weeks.
Here you can see a continuously updated set of leaf propagation photos.
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If you notice a rosette growing on your leaf but no roots, don’t stress out 🙂 This is normal. The leaf provides all the nutrients the baby succulent needs to grow. As it grows larger, it begins to shed roots while “looking” for water.
Keeping the leaves in moist soil can help encourage root development.
Success rate of succulent propagation
If some of your cuttings or leaves die off, don’t worry – more than half of my first batch didn’t make it. Some won’t grow as much as their siblings, while others will put up some roots but no leaves. Every cutting is different and it’s perfectly normal to lose some!
When your new plants start to grow, make sure the roots are covered with soil or they will dry out and your plants will likely stop growing.
When to plant propagated succulents
Most succulents take several months to grow to “normal” size—while some can take up to a year. In other words, this isn’t a super-fast process – but it works!
Once you start seeing roots, cover them with soil. This way they stay cool and have access to water. Keep watering to keep the soil moist.
You don’t need to do anything with the mother sheet. As the baby succulent grows larger, the mother leaf will begin to shrivel and die. This is perfectly normal and the mother leaf will fall off and separate from the baby leaf on its own.
Once this happens, continue to provide plenty of water for the baby succulent. Once well rooted and growing on its own, you can transplant it to another pot or arrange it in a different arrangement.
You can see how I plant my propagated babies here:
While they can technically be repotted at any time, I recommend waiting until the new baby is at least an inch or more in diameter. It is also best if the baby has a deep root system.
After the baby is in his new home, make sure you water him enough to keep him growing.
Give it a try and you’ll soon be addicted to propagating your plants!
And if you haven’t already, be sure to get my free cheat sheet to see what problems you might encounter when propagating succulents from leaves and how to fix them. Click here to get the cheat sheet.
Do succulent cuttings need to dry out before planting?
Unlike mature succulents, cuttings will need regular moisture until they can grow roots. Water frequently enough to keep the soil from drying out, but not so often that you see standing water.
Calloused Succulent
SHOP ALL PATTERNS
Succulent cuttings are often used in temporary arrangements, but they can also grow back into rooted, long-lasting plants. Propagation is an affordable and easy way to increase your succulent collection or to reuse decorative cuttings after an event. Even with proper care, some cuttings may fail to take root, but following this guide can greatly increase the success rate.
propagate stem cuttings
1. Prepare the pot
You can grow cuttings in a temporary pot while they root, or plant them straight into a permanent container. Either way, you’ll need a pot with a drainage hole big enough to leave 2 to 3 inches of space around each cutting.
Fill the container with a gritty, well-drained soil to protect your succulents from standing water and root rot. Most garden centers sell a cactus/succulent potting mix. You can also make your own using 3 parts potting soil, 2 parts coarse, salt-free sand, and 1 part perlite or pumice. Ultimate guide to succulent soil
2. Plant the cuttings
Plant the cut end of a stem 1″-2″ into the soil. If the succulent has leaves, you may need to remove some to reveal the bottom section of the stem. The lowest leaves should sit just off the ground without touching it. Squeeze the soil slightly so the cutting stands upright.
For stemmed succulents, remove any leaves needed to expose 1″-2″ of stem for planting
Place rosette cuttings in the soil as they are.
3. Choose the right location
Choose a spot for your young succulents that gets bright, indirect light (not full sun outdoors) and plenty of air circulation. Cuttings need sunlight to form new roots, but they can dry out quickly in direct sun. Good air circulation helps prevent infestations of mealybugs and mosquitoes on indoor succulents.
4. water
Unlike mature succulents, cuttings require regular moisture before they can root. Water frequently enough to keep the soil from drying out, but not so often that you see standing water. Depending on the temperature and humidity, the actual frequency is usually 2-4 times a week.
5. Care for rooted succulents
After 4-6 weeks, a very gentle tug will indicate if a cutting has taken root. To care for rooted succulents, switch to deeper, less frequent watering. Water only when the soil is completely dry, about 2-4 times a month. Repot if desired, gradually acclimating the succulent to its preferred light conditions. Allow 1-2 weeks to increase light exposure and give the plant time to adjust. Continue to care for your succulent and watch for above-ground growth in the months to come.
SHOP JUICY CUTTINGS
frequently asked Questions
What about propagation from leaf cuttings?
Although it’s usually more difficult, some soft succulents re-root from leaves. Be sure to select thick, healthy leaves near the base. Remove the leaves and let them dry indoors or in the shade for 4-7 days. Once the cut end is calloused, plant the leaves upright, cut side down, in light, gritty soil. Water like a cutting and watch for new growth over the following months.
Can I plant cuttings outdoors?
Rooting cuttings outdoors is challenging as environmental conditions are more variable. If you live in the right hardiness zone for the succulent, you can try planting a cutting outdoors during the growing season. Choose a location that receives partial or indirect sun. Follow the guidelines above, paying special attention to moisture levels. Note that some cuttings may not survive.
Do I have to fertilize?
Fertilizer is not necessary and too much can burn young or unrooted succulents. Mature, rooted succulents can tolerate low-nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer in the spring growing season.
Should I use a rooting hormone?
Not necessary. Succulents have a high concentration of meristem cells and do not require additional hormones to re-root.
Where can I find more information?
Mountain Crest Gardens has a large collection of books on propagating, cultivating and using succulents. For more information on propagation, we recommend:
SHOP JUICY CUTTINGS
How do you callus a cactus?
They cut off the stem, remove lower leaves and slip the cutting into moist potting soil without delay. Others claim better success when they take the cutting, then let it lie around for from a few hours, perhaps overnight, until a callus (layer of harder protective tissue) forms.
Calloused Succulent
Who is right?
They are both. It just depends on what type of plant you’re trying to root… and your own preferences!
Thin or soft-stemmed cuttings
Cuttings from plants with thin or soft stems, especially those with thin leaves (coleus, abutilons, etc.), will wilt quickly if the cut end is left exposed to air. This is a sign of severe stress and not good for the cut. Pot them up immediately…and immediately cover them with a clear plastic mini-greenhouse (dome, plastic bag, etc.) to prevent further water loss through the leaves. (In a mini greenhouse, the humidity is close to 100%, which reduces the transpiration of the cutting’s leaves to almost nothing and allows them to remain turgid.)
Always keep the substrate of these plants slightly moist until they root (then new growth will form). Drought stress is never good for them.
Juicy cuttings
Cuttings from plants with thick or woody stems, especially plants that are considered succulents, don’t lose water nearly as quickly as plants with softer stems. Many have thick leaves that also retain moisture; some have no leaves at all. You can actually throw stalks like this in an envelope and mail them to a friend without a second thought: they’re so tough. And they tend to rot if you don’t wait for the cut to form a callus, a hard, dry “crust” at the base of the cut. This can take from a few hours to a few weeks, in extreme cases even a few months.
In general, the thicker the stem, the longer it will take for it to seal itself. Moderately thick stemmed cuttings like Crassulas, Sanseverias and Echeverias are ready for potting in just a few days, even just overnight*. Likewise with cuttings of succulent leaves (many plants from the Crassulaceae family – Crassula, Echeveria, Kalanchoe, Sedum etc. – as well as species of Haworthia, Gasteria and Sansevieria, among others, root easily from leaf cuttings). There is only a very small wound on a leaf cutting where it was once attached to the stem, and it heals quickly. Simply leave such cuttings on a tray in a dry place, in the light or in the dark until the cut end no longer looks damp before repotting.
*Alternative option: If you don’t want to wait for these thin-stemmed succulents to cover callus, pot them immediately in completely dry rooting mix. Then let the mixture dry for a week. This gives them time to move the callus out of sight in the growing mix. Then start watering…moderately. They don’t need much moisture until they take root.
Note that you don’t need to cover succulent cuttings with a mini greenhouse while they root. They prefer the lower humidity outdoors.
When the stems are really thick
Really thick-stemmed succulents can take forever to harden. There are mainly cacti and euphorbias with stems that can be 15cm wide or more that you need to harvest with a saw and can take weeks or months to fully callous. They tend to be difficult to root and the likelihood of rot is quite high. To root these with as little loss as possible, try to take the cutting in spring (always the best season for any cutting, closely followed by summer) and do this by harvesting a secondary stem (branch) and there Cut where it joins the main stem: This leaves as narrow a wound as possible, which is more quickly covered by callus. That means you can snip off the top of most cacti and euphorbias at their thickest point, and the resulting cut will still eventually cover callus, giving you something to root for… after several months!
A Note on Euphorbias (Genus Euphorbia). They produce copious amounts of white sap (latex) when you cut them. (This sap is very irritating in most species, so wear gloves, and is also likely to be toxic, so don’t get it in your mouth or eyes.) To stop the “bleeding,” either dip the cutting in cold water or sprinkle him with cold water. This will curdle the juice. Or briefly expose to a candle or match flame to cauterize the wound.
Keep cuttings upright
Typically, cuttings that are subject to calluses are simply left on the side and that’s fine…if you pot them up fairly soon, say within a few weeks. If the healing process takes months (again, mostly thick-stemmed cacti and euphorbia) and you leave them in the same position on their side the whole time, the tip will begin to grow upwards – yes, even on a rootless cutting! — resulting in a plant with a bend in the stem when you stand it upright again to root. Either rotate the cutting regularly while it hardens and turn it a quarter turn every few days, or find a way to hold it upright while you wait for the horny skin to form. I’ve seen gardeners propping their cuttings against a wall or tying them to stakes to keep them upright, but personally I just drop them upright into a heavy drinking glass or other upright container. And wait.
Pot calloused cuttings
The “quick calluses” (meaning most succulents with fairly narrow stems, such as the typical Crassulas, Sanseverias, and Echeverias, from which most people take cuttings) root easily in regular potting or cactus soil. No rooting hormone is needed. One secret, though: keep them clearly on the dry side and hardly water them until you see signs of growth.
Thick-stemmed succulents (again, mostly cacti and euphorbia) are more difficult to root and more prone to rot. I recommend applying rooting hormone before planting them in soil (it also has a useful fungicidal effect)… and keeping the soil dry (i.e. not watering at all!) until you see some growth, usually a sign that rooting has begun .
Also, keep all cuttings warm during the rooting period.
Semi-juicy cuttings
Some plants are in-between: they are neither true succulents nor true non-succulents. These include the ever-popular Pelargonium, also known as Geranium (Pelargonium), Hoyas (Hoya), and a few others. You can treat these plants either way: some people pot their semi-succulent cuttings right away, others let them horny for a short time, usually overnight. Both ways work.
May I suggest rooting semi-succulents in some extra well-aerated mix, say perlite or sand? (Better ventilation reduces putrefaction losses.) And apply rooting hormone to the cut end? Also, keep the rooting medium only slightly moist. Semi-juicy cuttings only seem a little touchy when it comes to watering and need a little more attention than more typical cuttings.
So whether or not you leave cutting callus depends on the type of plant you’re trying to reproduce… and how you garden. It’s your choice!
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Do the leaves of succulents grow back?
Wondering if your succulent will ever grow back leaves that it lost? The long and short of it is no, leaves will not grow back on the stem where the leaves fell from. But that is not necessarily bad. Your succulent will grow new leaves from its top.
Calloused Succulent
In short, no, the leaves do not grow back on the stem from which the leaves fell. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Your succulent will grow new leaves at the top.
Should you expect succulent leaves to grow back?
If your plant is otherwise healthy and showing no other symptoms, you don’t need to worry too much about your succulent. Although the leaves won’t grow back on the area they originally came from, your plant won’t go bare for too long. You can expect new leaves to grow on the succulent.
In some types of succulents, fallen leaves are replaced with offshoots in the stems from which they came. In any case, all you have to do is be patient and wait for your plant to look luxurious again.
But what can you do if you’re concerned about the appearance of your succulent? One option to consider is transplanting your succulent. First look at the succulent and find an area over the bald spot. Cut off the head of the succulent with either pruning shears or a sharp knife.
After that, lay the top part directly on dry soil. Allow two weeks before watering the cut part of the plant. Within a few days or weeks, this part of the plant will grow new roots and turn into an entirely new plant. Once its roots are fully established, it can resume growth.
Why do succulents drop leaves?
But the more pressing question to ask is why is your plant losing leaves. A succulent that is dropping leaves isn’t necessarily bad. Just like any other plant, a succulent will drop leaves when they have lost their usefulness to the plant.
1. Usual leaf loss
When a leaf is no longer useful to the plant, it turns brown and crusty. This simply means that the plant has reabsorbed all of the nutrients from that leaf. Normally, succulents drop their lower leaves, which are then replaced with new leaf growth at the top.
2. Extreme heat shock
Many succulent species come from dry areas. These plants have evolved adaptations to both intense sunlight and high temperatures. However, that doesn’t mean succulents can’t succumb to extreme heat. Even if a succulent is placed in a shady area, it can still experience heat shock if the ambient temperature is too high for the plant.
Young succulents are particularly susceptible to heat shock. If you’ve just brought your succulent outside after spending a significant amount of time indoors, it can also become susceptible to heat shock if it hasn’t adjusted to its new environment.
How do you know for sure if your succulent is suffering from extreme heat stress? When a succulent is exposed to extreme heat, its leaves will wilt. In some species, the leaves may turn red or orange. You will also find that the leaves fall off at even the slightest touch.
A quick remedy for heat shock is to move the plant to a cooler location, preferably one with plenty of shade. However, you must ensure that there is not a significant temperature difference between the plant’s original location and the area you are moving it to.
3. Cold shock
Although a significant number of succulents come from arid climates, a good number of these plants come from alpine climates where temperatures can reach freezing or sub-zero temperatures.
But for a significant number of succulents, especially the soft or delicate ones, extreme cold can cause damage. Succulents store water in their fleshy parts, including their leaves. When the temperature approaches freezing point, the water in the individual cells of a succulent will freeze. Eventually, these cells can rupture and cause irreparable damage.
Before this happens, you will notice that the leaves of the plant are turning black and drooping. Protect your succulent from imminent danger by moving it to a warmer spot.
4. Over and under watering
Unlike other plants, succulents don’t need a lot of water to thrive. With their unique ability to store water in their individual cells, succulents are more than equipped to deal with droughts.
Excessive watering is bad for the health of succulents. Therefore, avoid overwatering your plant. Otherwise, you can kill it unknowingly. Make sure you use fast-draining soil for your container and water your plant when its soil is dry. Overwatered succulents have leaves that look and feel soft. These leaves can also take on a yellowish tint.
Although very few people do it, it is possible to submerge succulents. Maybe you’ve been too busy lately or you just forgot to water your plants. Underwatered succulents have leaves that are soft and shriveled. The leaves usually retain their original color. Even the slightest touch can result in fallen leaves. Left unchecked, the leaves will eventually turn brown and continue to shrivel. In most cases, it’s easier to reverse things for an underwatered succulent than one that has been overwatered.
Open a new leaf
If you have an otherwise healthy succulent, leaf drop shouldn’t be a cause for concern. Plants, including succulents, shed leaves naturally. Eventually your succulent will grow leaves, but not in the area where the fallen leaves came from.
However, losing leaves can sometimes indicate a larger problem, especially if you notice other symptoms. If you notice anything out of the ordinary besides fallen leaves, act quickly to save your plant.
Image: Istockphoto.com / Teenoo
|| WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO LET CUTTINGS CALLUS ||
See some more details on the topic how to tell if succulent leaf is calloused here:
How to Tell if Succulent Leaf is Calloused?
In most cases, succulent leaf would callous for 3-4 days. As I sa at the beginning, you will know that the leaf is already calloused when the stem end becomes …
Source: succulentsgrower.com
Date Published: 2/6/2021
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How To Tell If Succulent Leaf Is Calloused
But how to tell if succulent leaf is calloused? When the bottom of the leaf where the cut was made becomes lovely and dry instead of wet, you’ll …
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How To Tell If Succulent Leaf Is Calloused? – ClubGardening
The easiest way to tell if a succulent leaf is calloused is to place the Callus in water. Succulent leaves are usually very soft, but if the …
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How long does it take to callus a succulent?
But how to tell if succulent leaf is calloused? You’ll know that the leaf is already calloused when the bottom where the cut was made …
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How To Tell If Succulent Leaf Is Calloused – GardensOfMine
Welcome to this post that will talk about the best and easiest ways to spot whether the leaves of your succulent plant are calloused.
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How to Tell If Succulent Leaves Are Calloused? Easy Answer …
So how to tell if your succulent leaves are calloused? It took about 2-3 days to be calloused. When the wound mark in the leaf gets healed after separating from …
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Date Published: 3/30/2021
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Succulent Propagation for Beginners
You must wait 3-15 days for calluses to form on the ends of the leaf. A callus is like a scab for the plant – it …
Source: www.sublimesucculents.com
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Calloused Succulent – Gardential.com
When is a succulent calloused? … A succulent is calloused when cell tissues develop in the parts of the plant that have been damaged or cut.
Source: gardential.com
Date Published: 4/9/2022
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How do you know when a leaf has calloused? : r/succulents
The end where the break is will be nice and dry (and “sealed off” sorta) instead of wet with leafly innards. Only takes a day or two. Don’t …
Source: www.reddit.com
Date Published: 4/3/2022
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How to tell if a succulent leaf is calloused [2022 Edition, Personal Experience]
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The beauty of succulents is that they are easy to propagate and care for. They can propagate from both stems and leaves. However, in this post, we will only talk about leaf propagation. Obviously, the first step is to choose a leaf you want to propagate and start the process. Then allow the leaf to become calloused before planting it in its permanent pot.
But how do you know the right time, how do you know when it’s ready to be planted? You will know when the ground where the cut was made will be nice and dry and not wet. It will also look sealed, which is a big difference if we compare it to a fresh cut.
During the callousing process, be sure to protect the leaf from direct sunlight. Just leave it on a paper towel and it will work its magic for a few days. Once calloused you can place the leaf on top of the fast draining soil (check out my favorite soil on Amazon). In a few weeks, the leaf will develop roots and babies. When the roots have formed, you can plant them in a small pot first. At this point, watering should be controlled and really limited to the bare minimum.
Once the roots are established, you can mist them once every two days. You have to adapt these to the temperatures in the immediate vicinity. For clarity, I have included some steps on how to propagate succulents from leaves in this post. These step-by-step tips will be especially helpful if you’re a beginner. Let us begin!
A step-by-step guide to propagating succulents from leaves
Although succulents are easy to propagate and care for, many of my previous attempts at propagation had failed. This should also happen to many beginners. Now I’m going to share with you what I’ve learned over the years of growing succulents. Following the simple steps will save you time and money. However, it is important to remember that techniques can vary depending on the climate, environment, and of course the type of succulents you wish to propagate.
First off, what exactly is reproduction? If you are an experienced succulent grower, you already know this. But if you’re a beginner, you might not be entirely sure. Just to be clear, propagation is the process of propagating plants, in this case succulents, with leaves or stems. Basically you start with the parts of the succulents and later grow an entire succulent garden. Let’s dive into the process!
Step one: tool preparation
The first step is to prepare the tools you will need throughout the dissemination process. Luckily you don’t need much:
tray
Fast draining succulent/cactus soil (check my recommended one on Amazon)
Fine spray bottle (check this beauty on Amazon)
Healthy mature succulent
Step Two: Remove the selected succulent leaves from the mother plant
When choosing the succulent leaves for propagation, it is very important to pick the healthy ones. In most cases, the mature leaves are the most preferable as they are more likely to succeed.
Once you’ve found and picked the best leaf, remove it from the mother plant by twisting it back and forth between your fingers. Succulent leaves are easy to detach. However, make sure there is no damage as you really want to start with a healthy leaf.
Finally, and probably the most important thing to remember, when removing the leaf, the end of the petiole should remain intact. A damaged petiole will prevent the leaf from successfully propagating and you will have to start the whole process from scratch as the leaf is unlikely to become callous and is prone to rot.
Step Three: Leave the succulent leaf calloused
Now that you have a healthy leaf, you can let the leaf become callous. You can do this by placing the leaf on the paper towel for a few days. There isn’t much you can do at this stage. Just leave the leaf and wait for the wonder of nature.
In most cases, succulent leaves would become calloused for 3-4 days. As I said at the beginning, you will know that the leaf is already calloused when the stem end becomes dry. Be careful not to place the sheet in direct sunlight. Instead, look for a place that has access to bright, indirect light.
Step Four: Wait for the leaf to take root
Depending on the environment and the type of succulents you are propagating, it typically takes 4-5 weeks for the leaf to develop roots or young. I know the waiting can be the hardest part of the process. But there’s nothing we can do about that. What you can do instead is provide what the leaf needs.
Check the soil regularly, I mean every day. Give it a mist when it’s already dry. But don’t soak here either. Too much water causes rot in the leaf and in the sprouting roots. A dry soil is actually better. Don’t move the sheet either. It can have these tiny sprouting roots and interfering with them will actually delay the whole process. It is better when the environment is warm. Warm areas allow the succulent leaf to spread faster. So I suggest you do the whole process outdoors in the summer.
Starting leaf propagation in winter is not a good idea. During this period, temperatures drop, which significantly slows down the entire process. Still, you can try indoors if you want to do it in winter for one reason or another. When the leaf begins to shrink or die, it’s actually a sign that the roots are establishing themselves. However, if you see roots but no pups, make sure the place you are propagating your succulents is getting enough light.
Step five: transplanting the succulent pups
Once the original leaf has splintered and rotted, it means the pup is ready to be transplanted. Now you can transplant the pup into the new pot with fast-draining soil. At this time, avoid exposing the puppies to direct and strong sunlight. It can get sunburned easily, and you’ll have to start all over again.
What you can do instead is gradually expose the young plant to direct sunlight. This process is slow until the succulent is large and strong enough to be exposed to direct sunlight for several hours a day. If you’re still young and weak you can give it an hour of morning sun, but that’s it! Anyhow, if you stick to this process, you’ll have new and strong succulents in no time that will no doubt add even more beauty to your garden!
Final Thoughts
You’ll know the succulent leaf is already calloused when you see the end of the petiole becoming dry. Propagating succulents with leaves can vary from grower to grower. Follow my guidance, but also observe your own results, do experiments and find out what works and doesn’t work with your succulents. At the end of the day, experience is the best teacher and you will learn the most from your own experiments… You can also work through my complete guide to growing succulents to ensure you get the best results from your beloved plants!
FAQ
Q: Can you regrow a succulent from a leaf?
A: Succulent leaf can be used as a propagation medium. The tips above are exactly the step-by-step guide to propagating succulents with leaves.
Q: How long does it take for succulents to take root in water?
A: In most cases, succulents will root in water in about 2-6 weeks. However, this depends on the climate and temperature around them. Always check the water level throughout the process to ensure the process can continue smoothly.
Succulent Propagation for Beginners
I need more succulents, pronto.
Do not we all do this? Your newfound succulent habit could get expensive if you had to buy new plants every time you wanted to expand your collection. Luckily for you, nature took care of that detail. While succulents can be grown from a seed produced by a flower, a much more common method of growing new succulents is through propagation. Succulents have developed several methods of asexual reproduction (i.e. creating a genetically identical clone of themselves) not found in most other plants.
The easiest propagation method is via the leaves. Simply select a healthy, mature leaf and pull it off the stem. Be careful not to break it off and leave part of the leaf hanging from the plant.
Place the leaves you’ve grown on a tray or bowl and let them sit in the sun next to their mother plant. You need to wait 3-15 days for calluses to form on the ends of the leaves. A callus is like a scab for the plant – it prevents water loss and disease penetration. It is imperative that the leaves do not receive water during the callus formation process. This can cause leaf rot and will almost certainly halt the propagation process.
Once the leaves have formed calluses, you should place them on a tray or pot that has soil in it. The leaf can feel the dirt and will begin to form tiny roots if it hasn’t already. Don’t try to bury your leaves. Leave them on the surface of the dirt and the plant will do the rest. The leaves (or cuttings) should be sprayed or lightly watered daily to encourage growth but not saturate the soil. Once the plant is established (forming a rosette or new leaves) it can be repotted and watering should be reduced.
Is that it?
As simple as that! You should find your baby succulents growing to maturity within a few months or a year. Of course, as with all things in nature, there are exceptions. Some succulents will not propagate using this method. Notable examples would be aloe or agave plants.
Also read: Hardiness Zones and Succulent Plants
However, some plants take it to the next level. Chances are you own an Echeveria – they are a popular type of succulent and come in many shapes and sizes; often recognizable by their distinctive rosette. If you have one and want a lot more, try the following:
Strip the leaves around the base of the stem until 1-2 inches are bare. Prepare these for propagation and set aside. Use scissors or a knife to snip the stem as cleanly as possible – leaving about ½ inch below the top, still leafy portion. A clean cut is important because it makes it easier for the plant to become horny. Take the top half, the rosette, and treat it the same way you would the leaves – leave to callus, then plant in soil. It should take root in no time! This is a good technique for “getting a new plant” if you are causing etilation while the plant is young. And that “stump” you left behind? Leave it! You should see her start to sprout new buds within a few weeks! That’s three different propagation methods in just one plant!
Some of my leaves have not multiplied…
That’s fine! This is a normal part of the process. The success of leaf propagation is determined by many factors – amount of sunlight received, proper calluses, when water was applied, soil conditions, and so on. A success rate of < 50% is not uncommon. To improve these chances, rooting hormones are sometimes used. These are commercial products, often powders, that are applied to the leaves/stems immediately after cutting to encourage cornification and subsequent root growth. They are effective in increasing success, but not as effective as a proper methodology. Instead of buying a rooting hormone, honey has been shown to be effective. Simply dipping the tips of your leaves or stems in honey before laying them out to dry can increase their chances of survival. This is an excellent, inexpensive alternative as most households have honey (because it literally never expires). If you decide to go this route, make sure you're using real, natural honey - not the artificial one! Do you have any questions or comments about propagation? Tell us below!
Calloused Succulent
When trying to propagate your succulents from cuttings, do you have to wait for them to callus? There are two schools of thought on propagation from cuttings. One camp believes you shouldn’t wait for callus cuttings. Instead, they prefer to plant the cuttings directly into pots.
The other camp prefers to use calloused cuttings. This means that you should not immediately plant cuttings in the ground. Instead, you should wait until the cuttings are horny.
When is a succulent calloused?
A succulent is calloused when cell tissue develops in the damaged or cut parts of the plant. In addition to protecting the wounded areas in a plant, the cells in callus tissues can facilitate the growth of new roots, stems, and leaves.
Which Succulents Should You Harden First?
Both schools of thought are correct. Many gardeners have had success in one way or another.
There are plant cuttings that you can stick directly into the ground without waiting for them to become horny. And there are plants, like succulents, that do better after developing calluses.
Thin-stemmed cuttings
If you are propagating plants with soft and thin stems, don’t wait for them to develop calluses. These cuttings tend to dry out and wilt quickly when exposed to air.
Withering and drying up are signs that the cutting is under heavy use. Ultimately, the cut cannot withstand this heavy load.
In this situation, you have a better chance of success if you plant the cutting directly in a pot. Covering the plant afterwards helps create a greenhouse effect that minimizes, if not eliminates, moisture loss.
These cuttings should also be kept slightly moist until new roots emerge.
succulents
Plants with thick or woody stems, like succulents, have cuttings that don’t lose moisture as quickly. Compared to the cuttings of soft-stemmed plants, succulent cuttings last longer without drying up quickly.
Before planting succulent cuttings, it is imperative to wait until calluses form. Otherwise, if you plant succulent cuttings without calluses, they are very likely to rot.
semi-succulents
Semi-succulents refer to plants that are not considered true succulents. These include hoyas and geraniums.
With these plants, you can either wait for calluses to develop or you can stick your cuttings straight into the ground. Either way works fine.
How long does it take from an incision to callus?
How long it takes for a cutting to develop callus depends on the type of plant you are trying to propagate. In particular, you need to consider the thickness of the stem.
Generally speaking, the thicker the stalk, the longer it takes for callus to develop.
Succulents like sansevierias and crassulas have moderately thick stems. It generally takes a few days for the cuttings from these plants to be ready for planting. However, it is not uncommon for the cuttings of these plants to develop calluses overnight.
Thick stemmed cacti and euphorbia take weeks, even months, to form calluses. And even if these cuttings develop calluses, there’s a high chance they’ll rot or fail to root.
To meet this particular challenge, it is best to take cuttings in spring or summer. Additionally, harvest cuttings from the secondary stem.
Some succulents, like euphorbia, release latex or white sap after being cut. This sap is both irritating and toxic.
To prevent the white sap from oozing out of the cut, you can dip it in cold water or spray it with cold water. Alternatively, you can cauterize the wound by exposing it to an open flame.
How callus succulents?
Callusing is a straightforward process that requires a minimal amount of tools and resources.
One important thing to remember is that moisture is never part of this equation.
Step 1
Check your cuttings. If you notice any parts that have become rotten, cut them off. Be sure to make a clean cut with a sharp knife.
step 2
Place your cuttings on a clean and dry paper towel. Be sure to keep the paper towel and your cuttings in a dry and shady place. Never place your cuttings in direct sunlight.
If your cuttings are long, be sure to turn them over from time to time. This will prevent roots from forming on the sides.
step 3
Once you have noticed that calluses have formed on the cuttings, you can now plant them in pots. Be sure to use well-drained soil.
Don’t water your cuttings. Instead, wait for your cuttings to develop new roots. To check root growth, you can lift the cuttings out of their pots. Depending on the succulent you are propagating, you may have to wait anywhere from a few days to several weeks.
step 4
Once you notice that roots have formed, you can now start watering your new plants. Be sure to wait until the soil is completely dry before watering again. Otherwise, your succulents risk rotting.
A few helpful tips
The thicker the cut, the longer it takes for calluses to form. If you want your cuttings to callus faster, consider using leaves instead of stems.
Due to the smaller wounds, leaves tend to become calloused faster than stems.
It is possible to plant succulent cuttings in the ground, without waiting for the formation of calluses. However, your cuttings should be thin. You should also use a completely dry potting soil. The cuttings then form calluses under the potting soil.
You can moderately water your succulent cuttings from time to time. Your new plants won’t need as much moisture during this time.
With thick-stemmed succulents, you have no choice but to wait until the calluses have formed. This can take anywhere from several weeks to months.
It’s usually okay to leave cuttings that become calloused on their side. You can plant these immediately after the calluses have developed.
But for thick-stemmed cuttings, it’s best to stand them upright rather than laying them on their sides.
You can either place your cuttings against a wall or tie string around them to keep them upright. Some succulent growers maintain their cuttings by placing them in glass containers while they wait for the callus to form.
The main benefit of keeping cuttings upright is that you prevent their tips from growing upwards. As the tips grow upward, the new plant will curve at the stem.
How do you care for your cuttings?
Young succulents do not need direct sunlight. So place your new succulent containers in a spot with plenty of indirect light and airflow.
Indirect sunlight encourages new root growth. The airflow, on the other hand, keeps pests away.
Although mature succulents hate excess moisture, young succulents need more water. Avoid letting the soil in your pots dry out completely. For succulents grown from cuttings, the rule of thumb is to water two to four times a week.
As soon as the roots of the cuttings appear and stabilize, you can switch them to deep, but infrequent watering. At this point, you can water your cuttings 2-4 times a week, allowing the soil to dry completely between watering sessions.
This is also the best time to repot your succulents into larger containers. You should also help your succulents transition to their ideal lighting conditions.
Young succulents do not need fertilizer. In fact, using fertilizers on succulents grown from cuttings can be detrimental to their well-being. Fertilizers can burn the roots of young plants. It is better to wait until your cuttings are mature.
An easy way to expand your succulent collection
Propagating calloused succulents is a quick and easy way to add to your collection. Follow these tips closely, and you’ll soon have more succulents to give away or even sell.
Image: Istockphoto.com / Phaisit
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