In Line Lead Carp Rigs? Quick Answer

Carp Rig Guide Come and learn how to make the most popular carp rigs – from ronnie rigs to chods, zig rigs to multi rigs, our guide has it all!

Figuring out what the best carp rig is is up to you!

For me, it’s matching my rig with what’s in front of me, or more specifically, what I’m fishing for.

This ultimate guide will walk you through everything you need to know about rig crafting and the mechanics behind it.

Make your own carp rig

There are fishing rods that can help you fish weed and rigs that fish better when used with specific hookbaits like pop ups or wafters.

By purchasing the individual components such as hooks, leader material, swivels and stoppers, you save money in the long run instead of opting for ready-made rigs.

We recommend tying at least 3 or 4 rigs as these should cover most situations.

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Before you start making your own carp rigs, we’ve listed some essential tools to help you along the way.

These include scissors for cutting fishing line and leader materials such as B. braid, stripping tools for stripping the coated braid and tools for attaching bait to your hook such as. B. a bait needle.

Remember that each rig you make can have different parts such as soft or stiff hooklink materials, different sizes of swivels and a range of hook patterns.

Additionally, bait screws, dental floss, and clips are common components for attaching bait to your hook.

bait needle

An essential tool for threading hookbait onto your hair rig.

bait floss

A supple material used to attach bait to your rig/hook.

rig scissors

Used for cutting lines, leaders and other rigging work.

It’s also worth investing in a quality rig box because once you start making carp rigs you’ll need a place to store them!

1. Hair rig

Hair Rig Diagram

Usage: This is the simplest carp leader that can be used in many fishing situations.

Key Components: Eye hook, leader material and bait thread or a bait screw to attach your hookbait.

Additional Materials: Using a knotless knot works best. Make sure your bait gets plenty of movement by testing around the edges before use.

How does a hair rig work?

The hair rig was developed in the late 1970’s and was designed to hook fish by the side of the mouth as the bait is cast from the fish.

Ideally, you want the rig to rotate as the fish picks up your bait so the hook can penetrate properly.

Since then there have been many improvements and it is used in many fishing disciplines.

Easy to create and very effective, all you need to know is how to tie a knotless knot and use an eye hook.

If you prefer, you can also buy ready-tied leaders.

How to tie a hair rig?

The key to tying up an effective hair rig is:

1) Make sure your lure is about 1cm away from the bend of the shaft so it can spin freely

2) That the loop is just small enough to accommodate a bait stop. This will prevent bait from slipping off the hair loop.

3) Is neatly tied and effectively trimmed to conform to the lake bottom. Practice creates masters!

How to tie a knotless knot

2. Chod rig

Chod Carp Rig Diagram

Usage: Designed to fish thick grass with minimal tangles.

Key Components: A rigid or stiff connecting material that is fished with a buoyant lure such as a pop-up.

Additional material: putty, a ring swivel and chod hook, which should preferably have a curved curve.

When to use a chod rig?

As with all rigs, there is no hard and fast rule.

However, as the name suggests, a choddy is best used when fishing over boulders on the lake bottom or in low-lying weed.

You want a presentation that minimizes tangles and you can be confident that you will fish this rig well.

If you cast a chod rig with a piece of foam attached, the rig can sink knowing your hookbait has set well when the foam hits the surface.

A PVA bag rig can be a productive alternative to a chod rig.

How to tie a chod rig?

Below we have selected two useful videos for you to learn how to tie a chod rig.

Each video contains similar rig materials – and it’s up to you which brand or type you prefer. After all, these are just guides!

What hook do I use for a chod rig?

To answer this simply – there is no “one dedicated hook” that you should use.

Chod Rig Curve – just right

As a rough guide, the curved section should match the back of your thumb.

I’ve seen extreme curves as well as totally straight fluorocarbon used here – both caught fish.

Maybe try both methods to see what works for you?

Image courtesy of Korda.co.uk

Chod Ready Rigs

We’ve handpicked some chod ready rigs if that’s your preference.

3. Multi Rig

Multi Rig Diagram

Usage: Designed to raise your hook off bottom debris while keeping it as low as possible to the lake bottom.

Key Components: Pop Ups or other floating baits. A sharp, outward-pointing eye hook is key. Using a split shot will help weigh everything else down, with your hookbait “surfacing” above all the debris.

Additional Materials/Tips: A tungsten coated leader material.

When to use a multi rig?

Whether you’re casting to show fish or fishing in low lying grass, the Multi rig is probably one of the most versatile go-anywhere rigs today.

It is easy to tie and also very effective!

What sets the multi rig apart the most for me is the ability to quickly change hook size or pattern.

Using an in-turned eye hook increases aggressiveness, and it pays to experiment with different sizes and shapes of hook bait.

One of the most common problems is snag pulling – which you can counteract by increasing the amount of filler used to weigh it down. We’re not talking about a huge amount, just enough to increase the difficulty of the carp casting your bait.

How to tie a multi rig?

There are several ways to tie this versatile carp rig. Below are two videos that will show you the steps required to make the rig as perfect as possible.

Multi Rig Videos

Pre-tied multi rigs

If you have trouble tying rigs, these ready made rigs may work better for you.

4. Zig Rig

Zig Rig Diagram

Use: Allows you to fish anywhere in the water column. In the summer months there is excellent fishing just below the surface. Setting the correct depth is crucial.

Key Components: Small diameter line from lead to hook. Obscuring everything is key. A variety of hookbaits can be used – from pop-ups to fake corn to flies! The right length is also extremely important. Using an adjustable zig rig will help you make subtle changes easily.

Additional Materials/Tips: Try to hide or show the hook as much as possible. There are specialty Zig hooks that you can purchase, along with brightly colored sheaths to match the color of the hookbait.

When to use a Zig Rig?

Zigs can be used at any time of the year and for best results it’s worth moving them around frequently while swimming and adjusting the length until bites arrive.

If you notice any signs of carp breaching the surface, throwing a Zig in that direction could result in some explosive fishing!

Fishing tight lines with zig rigs also improves line display.

Experience has also taught me that using a lead clip arrangement reduces tangles and is safer as the lead is ejected on one shot.

As we’ve mentioned, using a foam nugget also reduces tangles – while letting you know exactly where you’re fishing!

How to tie a Zig Rig?

Although they may seem a little fiddly, zig rigs are fairly easy to tie.

I like to experiment with foam, reducing pop ups and how the hook is presented.

Below are two handpicked videos to give you some ideas on how to make your own zig rigs.

Zig Rig Videos

The Best Hooks for Zig Rigs?

I personally prefer smaller hooks when Zig fishing, like a size 10 or 12.

This is because these are easier to conceal as I like fishing small hookbaits.

There are specific “zig” hook patterns, some of which I’ve listed below.

Adjustable zig rigs

An adjustable zig rig makes it easy for you to change the depth you fish at.

Simply pull in and move the bead or adjustable float to the desired depth and cast again.

It’s that easy!

I choose to use these in the summer when the carp are high up near the surface and I need to cast fast and move around the lake a lot.

They really are an easier alternative to constantly tying or attaching a zig rig of different lengths.

If you haven’t tried it yet, I highly recommend the Korda Adjustable Zig Rig!

See below for alternative zig rig kits.

How to throw a zig rig

A tight zig rig can be difficult to cast – especially if it’s longer than 6 feet.

Combining casting from an unhooking mat with threading a PVA foam nugget onto the tip of the hook can make this easier and minimize tangles.

This method is perfect for zig rigs up to about 10 feet. A little longer than I would suggest putting the rig in a bucket. Sit back and throw with your arms outstretched.

The “bucket method” is also useful when fishing in windy conditions.

5. Ronnie/Spinner rig

Ronnie Rig Diagram

Usage: A low-lying pop-up rig that can be fished right at the bottom of the lake. The key feature of this popular rig is the hook’s ability to rotate 360 ​​degrees – increasing hook potential without tangling.

Key Components: A micro rig swivel that allows your hook to rotate fully. Should be used with a curved hook twisting from the heat shrink tubing. Together this maintains the aggressive hook position at all times.

Additional Materials/Tips: Rig Putty will help find the right balance and ensure the hook lifts proudly off the lake bottom.

How to tie a Ronnie Rig?

The main materials needed to tie the Ronnie Rig are as follows:

Size 4 or 6 curved shank hook

A micro rig swivel

hook stop

Kwik Lock Rig Swivel (available from Gardner Tackle)

shrink tubing

bait floss

Semi-rigid Hooklink material

As with our other rig tutorials, below are two videos to help you tie the perfect Ronnie rig!

Ronnie Rig Videos

Pre-tied Ronnie Rigs

There are pre-tied Ronnie Rigs available for purchase below.

6. D plant

D Rig diagram

Usage: Suitable for bottom baits and wafters, the classic D rig is famous for its fantastic blowback properties (harder for the carp to cast the bait)

Key Components: Should be bonded with a stiff material, preferably fluorocarbon. This is important to maintain the shape of the “D”.

Additional Materials/Tips: The D will naturally keep your hookbait close to the hook but still move freely. Rig Putty helps to nail your fluorocarbon/rigid material to the ground.

A great rig when fished over a perfectly clear lake bottom, the “D” needs to be right for the mechanics to work properly.

That makes it a pretty tricky rig, especially if you’re using fluorocarbon.

Please watch the videos below and with practice you will tire the D-Rig out perfectly every time!

D Rig Tips & Tricks

Make sure you choose a stiff connecting material like fluorocarbon. This helps the D hold its shape.

Since these are often quite thick, you should thread them through the hook twice. So you may need to use a bigger hook with a bigger eye!

The D-Rig is best used with bottom baits and wafters. Make sure you test this rig around the edges first (or use a bait bucket) so you can clearly see that the rotation is working properly and that it’s sitting perfectly on the bottom.

7. Short PVA Bag Rig

PVA Bag Rig Diagram

Usage: As the name suggests, this solid PVA bag rig should be used to cast PVA bags effectively. It uses a “bolt” effect, meaning as soon as the carp feel the weight, shoot them! Key components: I use a floating bait, such as B. a small piece of corn. This will float just above the PVA bag mix once dissolved. I prefer to use a short braid. Additional Materials/Tips: Short rigs, large hooks and a soft braid that minimizes any kinks that may occur when the rig is placed in a rigid bag. Creating weight near the hookbait really amplifies the bolting effect discussed earlier.

How to tie a PVA Bag Rig

This specialty rig is easy to tie and there are many configurations to choose from!

I found a couple of PVA bag rig videos showing two methods to tie these efficiently.

Tip: Use a bait boat or spod to create a dense carpet of bait, then drop your PVA bag over it (or just to the brim).

PVA Bag Rig Videos

PVA bag setup

I’ve linked some essential PVA bag rig components below to help you tie your own at home.

8. Tigernut Rig

Tiger Nut Rig Diagram

Usage: Lethal! If like me you love fishing with those juicy natural lures, this rig will help present tigers in the best possible way. Drilling out a tiger nut and stuffing it with cork will help create a balanced, buoyant hookbait. Better performance in spring when the carp move more towards the edges. Key Components: Supple braid and when fishing near the edges, a larger hook helps provide better hook hold. Other materials/tips: If you like, you can use imitation tigernuts instead of cork.

What are tigernuts?

Tiger nuts are a natural bait that carp absolutely love!

With a rough texture and sweet taste, they look a bit like a marble with a stripe running down.

They also ooze a peanut-like oil that creates a smooth liquid that can really attract the fish.

Unpeeled tigers must first be soaked.

For an extra kick, soaking tigernuts in a fish-based oil can give really great results, even in the winter!

How to tie a Tiger Nut Rig

You can make many adjustments, especially the length of the hair. I would try to keep the tiger nut fairly close to the shank.

If you’re considering using a balanced tiger nut rig, test it around the edges first so you can see if it covers the entire hook.

Let’s take a look at two carp rigs with tigers…

Tiger Nut Rig components

I’ve selected a few key tackle/baits that may come in handy if you decide to try a tiger nut rig!

9. Hinged Rigid Rig

Stiff hinged rig diagram

Usage: More commonly referred to as a big fish rig as the name suggests – the rigidity of the hooklink is designed to lift your hookbait off the lake bottom. One of the best carp rigs to present a pop up!

Key Components: Stiff rig material

Additional Materials: Best fished with a fairly large hook. Use extremely buoyant pop-ups for maximum impact!

How to build a stiff hinge rig?

Perhaps considered a ‘big fish rig’, the key feature is the use of a stiff hook link (as the name suggests!).

This is because carp can make life very difficult, especially when trying to cast the hookbait.

Even if a smarter fish manages to cast it out, the articulated stiff rig will always get it back in place while keeping tangles to a minimum.

The hook is actually pointing down, which means it almost always hooks in the middle of the fish’s mouth.

If there is one tip we could give for the Hinged Stiff Rig it would be to use it over a bed of boilies rather than particles as this rig sticks out from the lake bottom and could be ignored.

Check out the video below to learn how to tie a Hinged Stiff Rig, courtesy of Fox and Mark Pitchers.

10. DF blowback rig

DF rig diagram

Usage: A hugely successful blowback rig designed by Danny Fairbrass that can be used in a range of situations and with a range of baits.

Key Components: Wide gape hook, rig ring, heat shrink kicker and coated braid.

Additional Materials: Breaking the coated braid gives you a huge advantage as the rig is ‘reset’ every time.

What is a blowback rig?

A versatile ‘blowback’ carp rig that can be used in a variety of situations and a range of baits such as plastic corn, boilies or a critically balanced pop up.

Materials used to construct this rig include a wide gape hook, rig ring, kicker (shrink tubing) and coated braid. If you break the coated braid you really have an advantage as the hinge helps to ‘reset’ the rig every time.

By using high quality components, this rig will serve you well!

Tip: By using hair stoppers of different lengths, the hair can easily be adapted to your hook bait. This means you don’t have to constantly tie a rig just to change baits!

How to tie a DF rig?

Like the rest of our carp rigs, we’ve handpicked two videos to help you create the versatile DF rig below.

11. Snowman Rig

Snowman Rig Diagram

Usage: A classic rig, the Snowman is a bottom bait rig containing one large and one small hookbait, usually a boilie, or pop up the smaller bait to improve balance.

Key components: Two boilies mounted on a hair rig.

Additional Materials: You’ll definitely want to test the snowman rig around the edges to make sure it sits upright!

How to tie a snowman rig

Make sure you select two boilies first. The larger boilie should be threaded to your hair length first, followed by your chosen smaller boilie. Hold this double boilie close to the shank of your hook.

It takes a little practice to get this rig just right, so let’s watch a few rig videos to help you perfect them!

Snowman Rig Videos

Which boilies should I use?

We’ve selected a few quality boilies that you could use as part of your snowman rig below.

FAQs Which rigs for carp? There are many fishing rigs that you can use to catch carp including a basic hair rig, a chod rig which is good for fishing in the grass, a multi rig which is very versatile and a zig rig for catching carp up to the surface. What is the best hook size for carp? Use larger hooks for larger lures designed to catch larger fish, but use small hooks as a smaller lure improves stealth and could improve your catch rate when fishing for timid carp. How to tie a carp rig? Most of the materials needed to tie a carp rig include a leader, hook and hookbait. As additional components, beads, special swivels and screws for fixing your bait can be used. What is the best investment? There is no one best rig – but you should choose a rig that suits the fishing situation, such as: a chod rig for fishing in weed or boulders, or a bottombait rig like the snowman rig for fishing on a clean spot on lake bottom like gravel.

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A helicopter setup is perfect when you are not 100% on the bottom you are fishing on and can be a very fish friendly method when done correctly. A number of manufacturers now offer drop off kits that allow the line to be dropped if the situation calls for it. This is the best way to set up this arrangement when using short rigs – to avoid the lead bouncing around the fish head when playing the fight, or actually avoid snagging the lead when playing the fish. The example shown here uses a fixed lead

It is important that in the event of a break the rig can detach from either the main line or the hooklink. Make sure a drop-off style bead is used and (if using a hooklink) that the rig can be passed over the knot the hooklink is attached to. Again – test it on the shore before you cast out.

After each fish, check that there is no damage to the line/lead where the rig meets the lead – this section can become weak over time and fish can get lost (and drag a rig) if this Part of cord failed.

helicopter set up

A running lead setup is the simplest rig setup and can be useful when fish start using the weight of the lead to cast your rig. A running rig should be just that – the lead should be unfixed to prevent it from slipping off the line if the fish snags or the main line breaks. The biggest mistake inexperienced anglers make is when a split shot is crimped over the lead onto the main line. This is absolutely not fish friendly and should not be used under any circumstances. The lead must be able to slide off the main line in the event of a break.

Structure of the running line

The chod rig is a type of helicopter setup that uses a small “chod” section positioned above the lead – perfect for fishing over debris or weeds. It’s also the rig most commonly misbuilt. The same rules apply to the chod rig as the helicopter rig – making sure the rig can escape the main line/rig is the most important aspect. Because the chod rig is so short it is much better for the fish if the lead is cast out every time as this keeps the lead from being near the fish mouth and eyes while playing it to bank though a solid lead is acceptable. A common mistake when using a chod rig is to peel too much line off the spool after the cast to allow the rig to lay down properly over debris. This isn’t a problem in open water, but if you’re fishing close to obstructions it can potentially result in a fish becoming tangled on the bank with little or no indication. This setup is fantastic over weed but shouldn’t really be thrown near obstacles.

Structure of the chod rig

The image here shows a drop off lead system that can be set up to either keep the lead on a take or drop it when needed. This can be used for both helicopter and chod setups. This type of end tackle is now available from numerous manufacturers and sold locally. Casting the lead should not be taken for granted – it is important that this is only used when the situation calls for it – ie when you need to avoid catching a fish in foliage, trees etc.

Drop off mechanism

In most cases a solid bag approach uses an inline running lead inside and is therefore technically a running rig setup. This is an ideal solution if you are concerned about weeds or dirt on the ground as this method is almost everywhere. In order for the rig to fit neatly in the bag, the rig itself is usually short for ease of hooking. We recommend using rig tubing when using this method as it protects the fish’s eyes and flanks while it is being driven into the bank.

Structure of the running line – PVA bag

When you arrive at a location, you usually have to try to locate the fish while considering the positioning and movements of other anglers. What is often overlooked and more important is “can you fish safely” from your chosen spot? You must consider your own safety and that of your chosen quarry. For example, it is not safe from a fish perspective to set up next to numerous obstacles with light rods and light lines while targeting big carp. Your kit must be able to withstand the likely test it will be subjected to. It’s also not safe to fish up to snags with baitrunners engaged and a pod not firmly anchored. So before you even cast, please think about what will happen if you hook onto a big fish and always ask the question… “Will you be able to land the fish safely?” Lastly, check and recheck all your nodes. It poses a risk to wildlife and fish when a knot fails, which is easily prevented. Not to mention the risk of losing the fish of your life in what is arguably the most frustrating of ways!

first of all

This is certainly one of the most common wiring arrangements and involves a few components that need to be set up correctly. The picture here shows a two-piece lead clip system. The rig tubing routes the main line up from the sleeve end and the rig attaches to a swivel at the opposite end. You can see in the picture here that the line is hooked on with an oversized swivel and the rubber boot just slides down a few notches. These two elements ensure that should the lead get caught, it will disengage from the clip. How to set up a lead clip when fishing near obstructions such as overhanging trees and lily pads etc. As you slide the sleeve over the clip, make sure it is wetted to aid in loosening. Alternatively, if you’re fishing in open water and don’t need to drop the lead, then push the sleeve firmly on to ensure you always retrieve the lead. IMPORTANT – in this case you must ensure that the swivel can slip at the rig end of the clip. You can easily test this on the bench before you drive out. Hybrid Lead Clips need to be used slightly differently – please read the manufacturer’s instructions before using these. Please note which direction the sleeve is facing – a different orientation of the sleeve almost guarantees the line will not come loose and is a dangerous way to attach this arrangement.

The lead clip setup

This example shows an inline drop-off style lead. This can be used on its own as well as in a solid bag as above. This system works on the basis that the main line/lead is not inside the lead but is attached around it. To test the safety of this rig, simply hold the rig by the hook and shake before casting. When the lead falls off, you know the setting is right.

Structure of the running line – drop-off

Tight snag fishing presents a number of problems and must be carefully considered. Sometimes the fish will dictate that this is the only place you can catch them. Start with just one bare wire. You can then cast further with your line clip to avoid hitting the hook and make sure you are as close as possible. This almost eliminates the risk of snagging on your rig – which poses a threat to wildlife if it breaks off.

Make sure your rolls are locked tight – really tight. Carp will go to the nearest shelter almost every time and if the free spool or drag on your reel is loose you have a really good chance of losing the fish and chasing the fish down a rig.

Make sure your banksticks are pressed firmly into the ground to avoid carrying your setup into the lake. While using a pod, you can use stage stands or even tent pegs to secure your rest breaks.

Consider using grip butt rests and snag ears to ensure your rod doesn’t get dragged into the lake.

Make sure you are always close to your rods and NEVER leave them unattended. It’s bad practice, especially when hook fishing.

When night fishing it is advisable to avoid hook fishing altogether as it is almost impossible to get on the rods fast enough. Fish often venture out of these areas at night and we would recommend choosing other spots.

Fishing near tree stumps

Top 5 Tips for Solid PVA Bags

This entry was posted on February 10, 2021 by Anna Cooper

Speed ​​is a great aspect when fishing with solid PVA bags. Assembling a load of these bait bags will serve you well a night before a session and are sure to provide a carpet of bait carp can’t refuse. PVA is the ultimate confidence in a bag for all carp anglers!

What is PVA?

Polyvinyl alcohol, also known as PVA, is a water-soluble substance that can be made into solid sheets, ribbons, and cords, or woven into a mesh-like stocking. PVA is great for fishing as once it dissolves it leaves a neat pile of bait around your hook.

Why use solid PVA for fishing?

PVA is usually a product associated with the big carp scene but when used correctly it can be equally effective for smaller commercial carp. It’s particularly good in the cooler months when you’re trying to catch one fish at a time, it’s also brilliant on tough days when you really want or need to chop and change bait.

Check out the video below for more information on carp fishing with PVA bags below.

Attraction as well as a confidently presented rig no matter where it’s cast, the solid PVA bag is certainly a deadly method for all carp sizes and on all venues. The following tips will help you make the most of this epic tactic:

1. The size of the PVA bag is important

Make sure the contents of your bag include lots of smaller items like salmon crumbs and micropellets. Not only do these keep fish feeding around your hookbait for longer, they also allow you to pack the contents of the bag into a solid capsule that is very aerodynamic and will cast well over 100 meters with the right tackle.

2. Preparing your bait bags is key

Use nice short leadcore (or fluorocarbon) hooklinks with your rigs so you can tie loads of bags at home and then just sling them to your main line when you’re on the bank. You can have literally hundreds of these bags pretty and ready to rock and roll by the time you reach your venue, ideal for overnight stays. This saves you from tying bags around on the bank and allows you to maximize bite time and not waste valuable time. Also, make sure your hookbaits are plastic, otherwise pop-ups can shrink and increase buoyancy if left in ready-tied bags for long periods of time.

3. Added Reinforcement

Get a syringe (please make sure you’re careful) and an assortment of oils, goo and other PVA friendly liquids and inject these into your solid PVA bag before tossing it in. This will increase your bag’s pull power, giving you a liquid attractor as well as the food and hookbait in your bag.

4. Keep the rig length short

Keep the length of the rig in the bag between 3 and 5 inches and make sure you use a supple braid for your hooklink material. Because the fish don’t move far and feed close to the lead, the short hook length gives a greater chance of the fish being hooked.

Also, because the hooklink is crumpled up in the finished bag, this does not affect the presentation of a soft utility braid, whereas a mono hooklink will be kinked. Also, always use an in-line lead in a PVA bag, this will increase your rig’s hook and cast potential.

Watch the ADTV video below on how to tie a simple solid PVA bag.

5. Buoyancy of PVA bags

Typically a small pop up (12mm) or critically balanced wafter hookbait are good choices when using a fixed bag. With a small pile of pellets and bait your business end is very light and responsive when fish feed on it so it makes sense that your hookbait be the same. This results in the fish treating the hookbait with less suspicion.

Buy PVA products

We hope you found these top tips helpful! For more PVA know-how, visit the AD blog or go to Angling Direct’s Youtube for more ways to get the most out of PVA while fishing. Remember to share your success with Solid PVA bags with us on our social media!

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I ask for clarification of club rule number 10:

10. The use of bolts is not permitted.

Please understand at this point that I ask for clarification from the committee members and I have NO objection to such a rule.

I would like clarification as most modern day carp fishing rigs are actually bolt rigs and in many cases are actually fixed. Even a regular river feeder rig fished on a simple loop is usually critically balanced against the strength of the current so the rig becomes a self hooking rig, that is if the fish picks up the bait and interferes with the feeder , the current carries the feeder past the fish and makes the hook. Because the feeder is on a loop, although it runs a few inches or more, it is attached to the main line in that loop, so by definition a fixed hooklink.

When fishing for carp, a helicopter rig is fixed by attaching the lead to the main line. If you don’t succeed in casting the bait, the fish panics in front of the hook and hooks itself against the weight of the lead in a fraction of a second – a fixbolt rig in the truest sense.

I’m not trying to enlighten everyone with the mechanics of such rigs that I’ve described, just explaining how the confusion could arise. I may reconsider the rule, but of course as a new member I don’t want to break any club rules.

I had the pleasure of chatting with the Grimshaws Bailiff in April (Paul) and I really should have asked him that question but unfortunately I didn’t.

For my own carp fishing I prefer a fixed lead that attaches via a safety clip but despite the rig’s safety features it is by definition a fixed bolt rig. The built in safety clip means that if the main line breaks the carp on the other end won’t have to lug around a lead for the remainder of its (probably short) lifespan as the clip would eject the lead once it met resistance. Weed for example, but it doesn’t change the fact that the rig is still a “Fixed Bolt Rig”.

I’ve been around long enough to remember the original idea of ​​a bolt rig and I’ve seen it become the norm as it is today, but so far I’ve only fished an inline lead rig in club waters not “fixed”, but sliding on the leader. Again, this misalignment can get as bad as a fixed lead rig. Using a bead that is too small in diameter to fit over the hooklink knot to the mainline knot would become a ‘death rig’, as would a hooklink connected to the mainline via a swivel or connecting loop like the lead not be able to pass these obstacles and free fall, leaving the fish with only a hooked link – something much less likely to get caught.

After a google search for the actual definition of a fixed bolt rig, I came across this page which seemed to be a question like my own:

www.maldonas.co.uk/?p=2236

Is the club interpretation of the rule the same as the one in the link? That said, a secure system must be built into all carp rigs, or is the rule as clear as it is printed – no fixbolt rigs?

With fish welfare in mind I now prefer to cut my safety clip very short so that only a few mm are covered by the plastic cover. This results in the lead being thrown away on the take and although this costs me a lead for every carp bite I have, the reasons are valid. Firstly, the carp doesn’t have 3 ounces or whatever on the line a few inches from their head during the fight, which can only be better for the fish as it reduces the chance of potential fish injury. Second, the lead bounces around for 5 or 10 minutes during the fight and acts as an ejector. The hopping and hopping around during the fight can and will snap the hook from its grip and I believe it can also enlarge the hook hole in the mouth which obviously increases fish damage. So the thinking is twofold, reducing the risk of fish damage and increasing the chance of landing a fish on the hook.

Once connected to the fish I am in direct contact with it and nothing but the line and hook between the fish and me as the lead has been dumped. This thinking is becoming more mainstream and the introduction of Korda’s new Helisafe clip system means the lead can now be ejected from helicopter rigs (or chod rigs) when fishing.

How does the club board feel about this? That is, the possibility of the lakes being littered with discarded leads?

Hardly backed by any scientific evidence I know of, but I didn’t think a few thousand pipes would have any impact on the lakes as they already have several million pebbles at the bottom, they are former gravel pits after all .

Thanks in advance for any replies

Paul Hi everyone, I’m looking for clarification on club rule number 10:10. The use of fixbolt rigs is not permitted. Please understand that at this point I would like to ask the committee members for clarification, NOT against such a rule are indeed firm. Even a regular river feeder rig fished on a simple loop is usually critically balanced against the strength of the current so the rig becomes a self hooking rig, that is if the fish picks up the bait and interferes with the feeder , the current carries the feeder past the fish and makes the hook. Because the feeder is on a loop, although it runs a few inches or more, it is attached to the main line within that loop, so by definition a solid lead is fixed in position on the main line. If you don’t succeed in casting the bait, the fish panics and jumps through the hook stitch and in this fraction of a second hooks itself against the weight of the lead – a fixed bolt rig in the truest sense of the word. I’m not I tried to enlighten everyone with the mechanics of such rigs that I described but simply explained how confusion arose. I might think about the rule, but of course as a new member I don’t want to break any club rules. I had the pleasure of chatting with the Grimshaws Bailiff in April (Paul) and I really should have said that to the question of him but unfortunately I didn’t. For my own carp fishing I prefer a fixed lead attached via a safety clip but despite the rig’s safety features it is by definition a fixed pin rig. The built in safety clip means that if the main line breaks the carp on the other end won’t have to lug around a lead for the remainder of its (probably short) lifespan as the clip would eject the lead once it met resistance. Weed for example but that doesn’t change the fact that the rig is still a ‘fixed bolt rig’ it is however today so far I’ve only fished an inline lead rig in club waters as it doesn’t ‘fix’ is, but slides on the leader. Again, this misalignment can get as bad as a fixed lead rig. Using a bead that is too small in diameter to fit over the hooklink knot to the mainline knot would become a ‘death rig’, as would a hooklink connected to the mainline via a swivel or connecting loop like the lead not being able to pass these obstacles and free fall leaving the fish with only a hook link – something far less likely to get snagged Question like my own: is the club interpretation of the rule the same as that in the link? That said, a secure system must be built into all carp rigs or is the rule as clear as it is printed – no fixed bolt rigs? For fish protection reasons I now prefer to cut my safety clip very short so only a few mm are covered by the plastic cover. This results in the lead being thrown away on the take and although this costs me a lead for every carp bite I have, the reasons are sound. Firstly, the carp doesn’t have 3 ounces or whatever on the line a few inches from their head during the fight, which can only be better for the fish as it reduces the chance of potential fish injury. Second, the lead bounces around for 5 or 10 minutes during the fight and acts as an ejector. The hopping and hopping around during the fight can and does snap the hook from its grip and I believe it can also enlarge the hook hole in the mouth which obviously increases fish damage. So the thought is twofold, reducing the risk of fish damage and increasing the chance of landing a hooked fish. Once connected to the fish I am in direct contact with it and nothing but the line and hook between the fish and I as the lead has been disposed of. This mindset is becoming more mainstream and the introduction of Korda’s new Helisafe clip system means the lead can now be ejected from helicopter rigs (or chod rigs) when fishing. How does the club committee feel about this? That is, the possibility of the lakes being littered with discarded leads? Hardly backed by any scientific evidence that I know of, but I didn’t think a few thousand leads would have any impact on the lakes as they already have several million pebbles on their bed to begin with, they are former gravel pits after all. Thanks in advance for any replies, Paul

of fishing times |

Semi fixed bolt rigs have become common in modern fishing techniques, not only for those targeting carp but also for anglers hunting many other species.

When a fish hooks up with the semi fixed lead hookbait it will soon meet the full resistance of the weight and either hook itself or break away giving obvious bites.

Although originally developed for carp fishing, the rig is just as useful for tench and bream in still waters, as well as barbel and chub in rivers. Various baits can be used, from boilies and pellets to worms and maggots. However, the key is to ensure that the tip of the hook is exposed so that it is most likely to sting the fish.

In the event of a line break, it is important that the lead slides freely from the rest of the rig to avoid tethering a hooked fish. A lead safety clip should be used for this, with the tail elastic slipping lightly onto the clip to allow the lead to release with minimal effort. Follow these simple steps below and you’ll be creating the perfect secure bolt rig setup.

Thread a tail elastic and safety lead clip onto your main line. Make sure it slides off easily

Thread a tail elastic and safety lead clip onto your main line. Make sure it slides off easily

Tie a rig swivel to the end of the main line using a four turn Grinner knot or Palomar knot

Tie a rig swivel to the end of the main line using a four turn Grinner knot or Palomar knot

Slide the lead clip over the swivel and use the included pin to hold the clip to the swivel

Slide the lead clip over the swivel and use the included pin to hold the clip to the swivel

Attach the leash to the clip and gently press the tail elastic. Test to see if the lead ejects easily

Attach the leash to the clip and gently press the tail elastic. Test to see if the lead ejects easily

Secure your hook with a knotless knot. The leader should be weaker than the main line

Secure your hook with a knotless knot. The leader should be weaker than the main line

Tie the end of the hooklink to the rig swivel with a four loop Grinner knot

Tubing was introduced first to reduce tangles. The larger diameter of the tube resists the tendency of the leader to wrap around the smaller diameter main line. Ideally, the tubing should be just a few inches longer than the length of the hooklink.

It is most commonly used on lead clip arrangements, but smaller diameter tubing can also be used on helicopter lead arrangements to protect the mainline from the rigors of the swivel rubbing against the mono while playing hookcarp – a useful alternative if you want Selected venue has a leader ban.

As well as the anti-tangle aspect, tubing offers another purported benefit, which is to prevent the main line from coming into contact with the carp’s flanks and therefore minimize the (small) chance of the line lifting a bridle. We should consider and improve fish welfare issues whenever the opportunity arises.

All modern rig hoses are supple and sink like a rock – they help camouflage the line near the rig and protect it from snagging.

Unlike shock rigs, butt rigs are usually made of fast-sinking materials that sit flush with the bottom of the lake when the line settles with some slack. This product group includes leadcore or lead-free woven hooklength materials as well as fused loop hooklengths.

They act as an effective buffer against the wear and tear experienced by the end section of the line, whether it’s a heli rig swivel rubbing against the line while carp fishing or the line hitting obstacles.

The trend is for relatively short hooklinks and you can buy ‘safe’ ready made heli hooklinks based on all three types – great for less experienced anglers who can then mimic the way the hooklinks are constructed.

Longer hooklengths are suitable for applications like long running chods over grass and also for hook fishing where you are locked in and a longer buffer improves safety by protecting against cut-offs when a hooked fish hits the outside edges of the woodwork.

I would add that in addition to ensuring the hooklink can’t come loose from the hooklink it’s advisable to use a strong main line, say at least 0.35mm (or 0.40mm if hook fishing) as that obviously reduces the likelihood reduces that you lose a leader due to a cut-off. Nothing protects against such problems better than diameter – the thicker the better… and safer.

It is the most common lead arrangement used by carp anglers. Why is it so good and how do you fish it properly?

When used correctly, lead clips are one of the safest and easiest systems to use. They can be used in a variety of scenarios but are particularly effective in situations where you need to dispose of the lead. When fishing in thick grass or near obstacles, dropping the lead reduces the chance of catching a fish. You are therefore more likely to land every fish you hook.

A lead clip consists of two parts. The lower part with the arm where the leash is threaded and an end elastic that gently pushes onto the arm to hold the leash in place. How far the end rubber is pushed determines how easily the lead can be cast. Some feature an internal ridge to attach the swivel attached to the end of the main line, and others use a small peg to attach the swivel. This ensures that the lead clip stays on the swivel during casting and fishing and that the lead can be cast out if it gets caught.

A GREAT ALL-ROUNDER

Not only are they easy to throw, the lead clips are also extremely tangle-proof. If you are using tubing or hooklengths, make sure your hooklength is shorter than this to prevent it from tangling around the main line. If the lead penetrates a soft lake bottom, the leader can still settle over shallow silt or weeds because the leader is attached directly to the lead. It’s also an efficient self-hooking rig. When a carp picks up the hookbait and straightens the hooklink, the hook is pulled into its mouth and the sudden resistance causes the fish to snap and snap the hook into place.

1. Thread the end elastic onto your main line or the chosen leader material

2. Next, thread on the lead clip portion of the system

3. Attach the correct size swivel to your main line or hooklink

4. Pull the lead clip down over the swivel and fix it with the peg provided

5. Attach your chosen lead to the arm of the clip

6. Moisten with saliva and gently slide the rubber tail over the clip

TOP TIP For really weedy swim spots, remove the tail rubber and use PVA tape to hold the lead in place on the cast. Once the tape is in the water it will melt and there is no chance the lead will not be cast on the take.

2 WAYS TO ATTACH YOUR HOOK LINK TO YOUR LEASH

1. Tie a figure of eight loop to the hook at the opposite end of your leader. Thread this loop through the eye of the swivel in the base of the lead clip and then thread the hook through the loop. Finally, pull the leader to tighten the knot.

2. A quick-change swivel or clip allows you to attach a new leader in seconds. These are great if you are anticipating multiple bites or threading your hooklink through a mesh PVA bag or stick before casting.

TOP TIP Anti-Tangle Sleeves Adding an anti-tangle sleeve to your hooklink will help push it away from the lead and reduce the likelihood of tangles both during the cast and when landing on the lake bottom.

If you require any further carp fishing tips or information please contact the Angling Active team. We’re here to help.

This article was brought to you in partnership with Improve Your Coarse Fishing Magazine.

Tubing was introduced first to reduce tangles. The larger diameter of the tube resists the tendency of the leader to wrap around the smaller diameter main line. Ideally, the tubing should be just a few inches longer than the length of the hooklink.

It is most commonly used on lead clip arrangements, but smaller diameter tubing can also be used on helicopter lead arrangements to protect the mainline from the rigors of the swivel rubbing against the mono while playing hookcarp – a useful alternative if you want Selected venue has a leader ban.

As well as the anti-tangle aspect, tubing offers another purported benefit, which is to prevent the main line from coming into contact with the carp’s flanks and therefore minimize the (small) chance of the line lifting a bridle. We should consider and improve fish welfare issues whenever the opportunity arises.

All modern rig hoses are supple and sink like a rock – they help camouflage the line near the rig and protect it from snagging.

Unlike shock rigs, butt rigs are usually made of fast-sinking materials that sit flush with the bottom of the lake when the line settles with some slack. This product group includes leadcore or lead-free woven hooklength materials as well as fused loop hooklengths.

They act as an effective buffer against the wear and tear experienced by the end section of the line, whether it’s a heli rig swivel rubbing against the line while carp fishing or the line hitting obstacles.

The trend is for relatively short hooklinks and you can buy ‘safe’ ready made heli hooklinks based on all three types – great for less experienced anglers who can then mimic the way the hooklinks are constructed.

Longer hooklengths are suitable for applications like long running chods over grass and also for hook fishing where you are locked in and a longer buffer improves safety by protecting against cut-offs when a hooked fish hits the outside edges of the woodwork.

I would add that in addition to ensuring the hooklink can’t come loose from the hooklink it’s advisable to use a strong main line, say at least 0.35mm (or 0.40mm if hook fishing) as that obviously reduces the likelihood reduces that you lose a leader due to a cut-off. Nothing protects against such problems better than diameter – the thicker the better… and safer.