Is 18 Or 316 Bigger? Quick Answer

by Jeff Estoppey

18-8 stainless steel, sometimes called 304 stainless steel, is the most common type used for fasteners such as machine screws and nuts. It contains 18% chromium and 8% nickel and has strong corrosion resistance but is softer and therefore weaker than some other grades such as 410 stainless steel. Self drilling screws are available in 18-8 but are generally only used for drilling in wood or soft materials recommended. 18-8 is a non-magnetic stainless steel.

303 stainless steel is similar to 18-8 stainless steel but has a higher sulfur content, making it one of the more machinable grades of stainless steel. This machinability has made it very popular in the fastener industry, particularly in the manufacture of standoffs and standoffs. It is non-magnetic in its normal state, but can become magnetic through cold working (forming when not heated).

316 stainless steel is both hardened and extremely corrosion resistant, making it a good choice for larger nuts, bolts and washers used in harsh environments such as coasts. We stock 316 Stainless Steel Hex Head Screws, Machine Screws, Self Drilling Screws, and U-Drive Screws. It is non-magnetic.

410 stainless steel is a hardened type that is common in some fastener lines, particularly self-drilling screws. The hardening enables more strength and stability, especially when installed in metallic materials. We offer many other types of screws in 410 stainless steel, as well as some mil-spec parts and washers. 410 is a stainless material that is actually magnetic.

We offer several mil-spec part lines in the general grades of 300 and 400 series, as well as coil spring pins and 420 stainless steel roll/spring pins. Many of our 18-8 and 410 stainless steel lines also feature black oxide coated parts.

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Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on Pinterest There is a big difference between 18/10 and 18/0 stainless steel and it is this difference that is most important when buying cutlery. This guide will educate you on the costs and benefits of each type of stainless steel cutlery, helping you make a more informed decision the next time you shop.

18/0 cutlery

For 18/0 cutlery, the “18” refers to the chromium content and the “0” to the nickel content. 18% Chromium is the standard amount in all types of cutlery as it is a very hard and tough metal that is both mar and stain resistant. Chrome is essentially what gives a piece of cutlery its weight and durability. Nickel, on the other hand, is a silvery white metal that gives a high luster to the metal it is mixed with. Nickel also has corrosion resistant properties and forms a protective layer for the metal to which it is applied. With 0% nickel in 18/0 stainless steel, the cutlery has a matt shine and is more prone to rust and stains. Despite this, 18/0 cutlery is often much cheaper than alternatives and while not as rust resistant, stainless steel is still very strong and resistant to a variety of corrosive factors and blemishes. 18/0 cutlery is perfect for businesses with a more casual atmosphere or high turnover, or simply for everyday use at home. Our Milan 18/0 cutlery is an attractive mid-range cutlery collection with a sophisticated, modern design and practical shape.

18/10 cutlery

18/10 stainless steel contains the same amount of chromium as 18/0 but has 10% nickel content. That extra 10% makes a big difference in the appearance and longevity of the metal. 18/10 cutlery has a brilliant shine, is extremely durable and has excellent rust and corrosion resistance. Therefore, 18/10 cutlery is not only more attractive in general, but can also be hand washed or washed in the dishwasher dozens or hundreds of times. This extra durability is perfect for restaurants and especially those with an upscale atmosphere. 18/10 cutlery is also a great option for that one set of cutlery at home that is saved for special occasions. Although often more expensive, 18/10 stainless steel is the best option for impressing guests and perfectly assembling an elegant table display. For the absolute finest 18/10 cutlery, our Oasis range from Sola Cutlery combines contemporary design with classic poise and ease of use. The Oasis range looks great alongside any tableware selection or food presentation.

At Pattersons we cater to all cutlery requirements and therefore have a wide range of 18/0 and 18/10 cutlery. So why not explore some options in our cutlery section?

cost analysis

Another difference between 304 and 316 is the cost of materials. When made into fasteners, the 304 SS tends to be cheaper. Because of this, 304 SS products are more popular with consumers. It meets standard corrosion requirements at a lower cost than the higher quality material. Alternatively, 316 stainless steel fasteners are typically used by contractors working in highly corrosive environments.

Other grades of stainless steel

304 and 316 stainless steel fasteners are not the only material options available to consumers. While the 300 series offers excellent corrosion resistance, the 400 series offers increased hardness. For example, 410 SS has a low alloy content, meaning fewer materials are added to its composition, resulting in a higher carbon content. This increased amount of carbon gives the 400 series stainless steels improved strength properties as well as better performance at elevated temperatures while still maintaining some corrosion resistance. Due to the lower alloy content in 400 series stainless steel, fasteners made from this material tend to cost less than 300 series parts.

Material Selection Guide

Check out the charts below to learn more about 304, 316 and other popular SS grades to make the optimal choice for your upcoming project.

environmental conditions

The table below describes the environmental conditions for which specific grades of stainless steel are suitable. All environmental conditions are based on EN ISO 12944 exposure categories. Results are based on SFS internal testing and supplemented by The Nickel Institute, “Design Guidelines for the Selection and Use of Stainless Steel” (published by AISI).

Table 2: Material selection based on environmental conditions.

✔ indicates that mounting material is recommended for the environmental conditions described

Explanation of environmental conditions

✔* indicates that faster material is recommended with specific permission of the specified application

Environmental grades are taken from ISO 12944. They do not describe specific quantitative criteria for pollution levels, but are instead intended to be standard guidelines for general environmental conditions.

material connections

The following table describes the situations in which a fastener made of a specific material can be installed in a surface made of a specific material. The information in this table is taken from the MCA technical document, Fastener Compatibility with Profiled Metal Roof and Wall Panels.

Table 3: Material selection based on the cladding material used.

SFS product lines

✔ indicates that fasteners are recommended for the trim material described

SFS offers several products that take advantage of the corrosion resistant properties of 304 stainless steel. Popular examples are the Bi-Met 300® series facade screws or the self-tapping stainless screws. In addition, many of our rain cover system fairing fasteners and panel screws are offered in both 304 and 316 to suit a variety of environments including highly corrosive conditions.

We invite you to explore our extensive range of fasteners to find the best solution for the intended application, climate and budget. Call 1.800.234.4533. Our team will be happy to answer all your questions and help you place your order.

Summary of 304 stainless steel vs. 316 stainless steel

Stainless Steel Fasteners can offer a variety of strength and corrosion resistance properties to meet your needs. Each grade of stainless steel has different properties and offers advantages in specific environments. It is important for contractors to choose the right material for their fasteners based on the jobsite environment. This document is intended as a resource to assist you in effectively selecting the right fasteners based on your needs.

Free personalized metal finishing help!

What is 18/8 stainless steel?

—–

An ongoing discussion that began in 2002…

Q. 1. Explain what 18/8 stainless steel is? What do the numbers mean.

2. What is the best way to clean an 18/8 bowl or platter used in the hospitality industry?

Is it safe to use a commercial dishwasher?

Cathy McCosham

– Harrison, Ohio

^

A. Cathy, 18/8 stainless steel has a nominal composition of 18% chromium, 8% nickel, and the balance iron. Other common names include 301, 302, and 304 stainless steel. In general, cleaning in a dishwasher should be acceptable. Any dishwasher powerful enough to damage 18/8 stainless steel will destroy plastic or china dishes. was that your question

Lee Gearhart

Metallurgist—E. Aurora, New York

^

A. A steel (i.e. an iron-based alloy) nominally containing 18% chromium and 8% nickel (hence the abbreviation 18/8). These two elements, primarily chromium and secondarily nickel, provide corrosion resistance. It also contains a dozen or two other elements in much smaller proportions, some added on purpose and some inevitably present, that play a role but do not directly affect the “stainless steel” of the material. Clean it in the dishwasher with the alkaline, non-sudsing detergent normally used in dishwashers. Or wash it in the sink with regular (sudsing) dishwashing liquid. Or soap. Or what ever. Very hot water will always sterilize better than warm or cold water, no matter what you wash. None of these will damage the material. But don’t use a scouring pad – you’ll scratch the surface and spoil the look.

Bill Reynolds [Dec]

Consulting Metallurgist – Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

We are sad to share the news that Bill passed away on January 29, 2010.

^

A. 18/8 stainless steel is nominally 18% chromium and 8% nickel, with the remainder being primarily iron; however, it also contains other elements, but in very small amounts. It is also known as 302 or 304 grade stainless steel. This grade of stainless steel is widely considered to be one of the “workhorses” in stainless steel because it is widely available and cheap (relatively!). It also gives a great finish when electropolished. This type of stainless steel is usually quite soft and prone to surface damage. As for cleaning, it should be fine in a dishwasher as it is widely used in kitchenware. However, they don’t say what kind of dirt you’re trying to remove; If it’s normal household pollution, there shouldn’t be a problem. If it’s a heavier stain you may need to use a mild abrasive, but be warned if it’s rustproof and has been electropolished you can damage the reflectivity and scratch the finish. If you scratch the surface and it hasn’t been electropolished, you can buff out all the scratches if you have the patience. If it was electropolished you would need to buff out the scratches and then electropolish again, but electropolishing should only be done by a competent person as it uses high electrical currents and very nasty chemicals. As with many stainless steels, avoid contact with high concentrations of chloride ions as this can etch the surface, making it rough and even promoting rusting on some stainless steels.

Trevor Crichton

R&D practitioner

Chesham, Bucks, UK

^

A. Note: 18 and 8 are “minimum” values, not nominal values. Allen Johnson

– North Carolina

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Q. I have purchased 18/0 stainless steel cutlery and cookware and would like to know what 18/0 means (in terms of metal composition and uses in cooking/cleaning/durability/health/…). Thank you for your reference help.

Giamirene

[Last name deleted by editors for privacy reasons]

Student – Singapore

^

A. Giamirene, 18/0 means 18 percent chromium and 0 percent nickel. Non-nickel stainless steel like 18/0 is magnetic while nickel stainless steel like 18/8 or 18/10 is non-magnetic. The magnetic type should be a little cheaper and is probably a little less resistant to corrosion.

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

^

Q. Does anyone know why my 18/10 stainless steel (one month old) is corroding and rusting? I put it in the dishwasher according to the instructions. Could something be wrong with the cutlery coating or with my water? Help.

Kate Stan

Wondering Homeowner – South Elgin, Illinois

^

A. Kate, I don’t think stainless cutlery is coated. If it were there, it wouldn’t take long!

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

^

Q. I have cutlery with the same rusting problem you describe, but only on my knife blades. The maker is Gorham and they say it’s due to a different alloy used on the knife blades that oxidizes when moisture sits on it. They recommend hand washing and drying or line drying once the dishwasher is running. I’ve heard other manufacturers have this problem too.

Greta Hittner

– Mankato, Minnesota

^

A. Greta, if you test your cutlery with a magnet, you’ll find that the blades of the knives are magnetic even when the rest of the cutlery isn’t; I believe this is because the magnetic 18/0 holds up better. But some people sometimes notice that the blades rust while the rest of the cutlery doesn’t.

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

^

Q. I get very mixed messages about the quality of cutlery available today. I have an entire kitchen full of “stainless steel” utensils that will never rust, corrode, or puncture. I recently purchased a beautiful 18/10 Wallace cutlery set. Well I’ll be darned if this great “quality” stuff doesn’t rust, start and stain. The claims are that the “8” or “10” contributes to anti-corrosion quality. Not so. After surfing the net for a long time, I found out that this is supposedly normal. The advertisements, of course, never make this point clear. It occurs primarily on butter knives, but has appeared on other pieces as well. I’m willing to return the whole set even though I love the pattern. Should I go back to the “cheap” stuff that I can really put in the dishwasher, say 18/0 quality? What was my old stuff made of, I wonder? If I wanted to hand wash and polish my cutlery, why not just use my cutlery? Please help.

Teddy Bell

Consumers – Monroe, New York

^

A. Tedi, cutlery is generally of much lower quality these days – if possible, keep your old cutlery. First, anything made in China is suspect. This isn’t chauvinism, it’s simply recognizing that different cultures have different attitudes, and a manufacturing culture that is okay with making children’s jewelry out of cadmium, painting children’s toys with lead paint, selling wall panels that destroy the wiring of a house, and so further putting poisons in animal feed is not trustworthy. Second, our American companies are busy convincing themselves that it’s okay to take patterns that used to be 18/8 or 18/10 and make them 18/0 instead. We’re back in the days of Caveat emptor! But 18/10 should be better quality and more expensive than 18/0 because it contains 10 percent nickel. You can use a magnet to determine which is which: 18/8 and 18/10 are non-magnetic (or at least very weakly magnetic by cold working). The cheaper 18/0 is strongly magnetic. Blades are often made from 18/0, even in an 18/8 or 18/10 set, since only 18/0 can hold an edge. Maybe your old set was 18/8 or 18/10, including the butter knife blades, but these butter knives are 18/0?

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

^

Ted, thanks for your quick reply. I tested my old cutlery and indeed it is magnetic. However, it does not rust. I tested the new 18/10 knife blades and they are also magnetic but they do get rust spots. The handles on the 18/10 stuff aren’t magnetic and they don’t rust. For some reason the metal alloy in the knife blades must be different than in the handles and other parts of the set. I can go back to 18/0 as it seems consistent in its behavior and still looks good. When I say it’s “cheap,” I just mean it costs less; But again, you have to be careful to read the adverts carefully. Much of the 18/0 is advertised as 18/10. Precaution! Tedi Bell [returning]

Consumers – Monroe, New York

^

Q. 18/10 is the higher quality and 18/8 is almost the same and 18/0 is the lowest and is used for cookware rather than flatware. Is there a better grade than 18/10? What is the most accepted type of cookware? I’m considering buying a whole set but can’t decide which one I want. Does the thickness of the cookware also have something to do with the variety? Is it better if it’s thick or the alloys do the trick and not the thickness. If it’s better to be fatter, how and why? Many Thanks.

Bo Tuncer

Consumer – Las Vegas, Nevada

^

Q. Cutlery standards? How do you know if it’s 18/0 or 18/10?

The website says the style is 18/0

The instructions say the style is 18/10

Nelson

[Last name deleted by editors for privacy reasons]

Sales – Phoenix, Arizona

^

Hello Nelson. You can easily spot it with a magnet as 18/0 is highly magnetic and 18/10 is not. But more importantly, how would the manufacturing company even know what to make? In these days of offshore manufacturing, it’s extremely important that the vendor exercise extremely tight control… and that you hold them accountable. It is unacceptable for a vendor to downplay the importance of this fact to such an outrageous extent that they make this mistake. The short answer is: never buy from a vendor who doesn’t even seem to know what they’re trying to sell 🙂

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

^

Q. I’m wondering the best way to clean rust stains off the blade of my 18/10 stainless steel butter knife (without scratching it). They are highly polished so it is important to me not to scratch them.

As an aside, I have followed manufacturers guidelines closely in the care and use of these knives and have a few that I have not even used. But all have rust spots. Any idea what could be the cause?

Michelle Behrooznia

Consumer – San Diego, California

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Q. I asked the same about rust-like stains on my 18/10 stainless steel flatware. A set we bought was made by Wallace. Less than a month went by and our knives in particular were a bit pitted and had rust-like spots on them… more on the handles in this case. It was unusual for me that not all pieces of cutlery reacted in the same way. I contacted the company and they said bring it back to the place of purchase. I have no problems. I then bought another 18/10 cutlery set from Oneida. I’ve never had any problems with this brand before. Two weeks have passed and lo and behold, the problem is back… on the knives! What’s up with it?

Is it the soap products we use? The chemicals in our water? I can’t find out. It’s really annoying for me. Who wants to set a table with stained and pitted cutlery?

Please, can anyone give any advice…just hand wash everything? Maybe a softener?

Kim Zeiss

– Duncansville, Pennsylvania

^

A. 18-8 is typically 304 grade stainless steel. 304 stainless steel can be slightly magnetic. This is the iron. iron rusts.

What I’ve found is that the older the material, the better the quality. This is due to newer technologies allowing manufacturers to get closer to their minimum material tolerances. The fewer expensive components you have to install, the lower your production costs. They used to add more to make sure they had enough because they couldn’t measure that accurately and cost wasn’t that much of an issue. If you have something made of pre-1960 stainless steel, it’s probably high quality. Rick Holmes, industrial maintenance and purchasing

– Bellingham, Washington

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Q. The best stainless steel manufacturers on planet earth? I’ve been using various stainless bowls and trays for 40 years and it seems that the best stainless steel comes from the US and Northern Europe while the worst comes from Asia. The worst rust and puncture easily, while the best don’t. does anyone know why Are there other countries that produce high quality stainless steel?

Richard Wasser

Artist – Gulfport, Mississippi

^

Answer: Hi Richard. Just as it’s easy to bake a lousy cake, even if you add a cup of milk and two eggs, there’s more to making quality stainless steel than just a percentage of nickel and chromium. It depends on how carefully it is made – because tight control of processing parameters is necessary to properly distribute the carbon, build up the right crystal structures, avoid contact with bare steel, properly passivate the finished product, etc. Your best Protection (however thin it may be) is trust in a brand name. Your assessment is probably correct: if a country has an established culture of counterfeiting and is doing everything it can get away with, it’s foolish to assume that you can get quality material from that area without some degree of scrutiny, and as an end user you don’t have any. When a brand name decides to exercise tight control, you can count on them to take care of quality assurance, sourcing, and consistently deliver quality products. When the brand name denies that responsibility, for example when they have become a “meatball whore” (“licensing” their icon meatball brands to third parties), they are delivering garbage and there is nothing you can do but buy from someone else . A good starting point is a look at the warranty information. If they want you to communicate with someone other than their company name in case of problems, they’ve probably become a meatball whore, maximizing the profit they can steal from the sweat 7 reputation of our dead ancestors, rather than their own current effort 🙂

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

^

A. I am not the ideal person to address these issues as my specialty is high quality knives. A lot of “rust” issues pop up here and maybe I can help,

ALL knives that contain iron in any amount can be subject to rusting problems, especially if used infrequently. The only way to avoid rust, black spots and/or holes is to THOROUGHLY dry the blade (and all dishes to be safe) by thoroughly drying the utensils.

If they are rarely used, it is best to protect them from moisture with a suitable storage system or to lightly oil them.

To remove tarnish or stains, a product called Nevr-Dull [affil. Link to info/product at Amazon]. It claims to clean all types of metal and has worked wonders for me.

I hope it helps. George Kent Smith

Cutlery – Carson City, Nevada

^

A. I recently bought new flatware because my old flatware that I used in college has the same rust stain issues you mentioned (especially on the knife blades).

When shopping I see that many manufacturers say that the cutlery is dishwasher safe if you DO NOT USE LEMON DETERGENT. Perhaps it’s the citrus additives in these popular laundry detergents that contribute to their deterioration. This confirms it. This link www.cutleryandmore.com/images/henckelsinternational/flatware_care.pdf provides information on proper care of stainless steel including no prolonged contact with acidic foods (lemon, ketchup, mustard), no use of detergents containing chlorides or lemon, no soaking Cutlery with aluminum or for long periods of time, dry thoroughly and use dishwasher dry cycle, clean stains/rust with stainless steel metal polish. Jessica Bridges

-Chicago, Illinois

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Q. Is there a difference in surface durability between matte and shiny stainless steel cutlery? Is one or the other more prone to scratches over time?

Douglas Kallman

– Atlanta, GA

^

A. After reading the above posts I figured testing with a magnet would be the easiest way to identify the different alloys. I found that ALL knife blades have a strong magnetic attraction.

Tableware we already own – we have a mix of brands: Oneida, Sonoma (Kohl’s house brand) and unidentified spoons from a major department store. We have all this for more than 5 years. There is practically no rust, pits, corrosion on all parts. In the Oneida set, the forks and large spoons were tightened very lightly (18/10?), while the small spoons were tightened a little more (18/8?). The Sonoma and no-name turn signals were all heavily tightened (18/0?).

New purchase – I shopped at two department store chains and tested a few dozen sets citing different alloys. I was a little surprised by what the magnet test showed: All brands that state 18/10 always had large forks that had either no or weak attraction. All knife blades were strongly tightened. Large spoons and small forks were either not tightened/slightly tightened or tightened a little more. Small spoons (teaspoons) were even heavily attracted all over the map – despite the label saying 18/10. I tested a brand of 18/10 where the big fork was the only piece that wasn’t tightened. The only brand (which I ultimately decided to purchase) where all the parts apart from the knife blade had no appeal was J.A. Henckels [affil. Link to info/product on Amazon].

As I mentioned earlier, none of our 5+ year old pieces had any problems. I think this is due to two main practices: always use non-citrus automatic dishwashing detergent and always use the heated drying cycle. Jim Mason

-York, Pennsylvania

^

A. When asked if flatware degrades over time, here’s a response from Oneida (I emailed them when I discovered their Colonial Boston pattern is now only available in 18/0 , after decades in 18/8):

“Oneida has changed the majority of houseware patterns to 18/0 to meet customer demand for less expensive cutlery sets. The cost of stainless steel has increased significantly. You should not notice any difference in the quality of the Colonial Boston pattern. We’ve changed the style of the knives to a one piece solid handle construction versus the older two piece hollow handle knives of years ago. This change was made in spring 2005. It has nothing to do with the 18/0 change. I will forward your email to our marketing team.”

Cutco essentials

affiliate link

(Your purchases make Finishing.com possible) So, after all these decades, they make all their silverware cheap. Very disappointing. I’m not sure how many other brands will do the same. Sarah Starks

– Santa Monica, California

^

A. In my opinion, CUTCO is the best cutlery and knives of all kinds. . just because they are guaranteed forever against any rust or anything. . .plus the cutlery is the nicest cutlery i have ever seen and i have never liked hand washing anything so i just put it in the dishwasher and it has worked for me so far (3 1/2 years) and her still look the same! Jesse Jarmon

– Trinity, North Carolina

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A. I used to work in the stainless steel fabrication industry designing pharmaceutical pressure vessels. I remember telling my brother about SS rusting and like many others he couldn’t believe it.

The number one reason for a tank rusting was improper handling of the stainless steel. All tools (mills, grinders, polishers, etc.) that are used on stainless steel can only be used on stainless steel. When used on regular (carbon) steel and then stainless steel, tiny particles of the carbon steel become embedded in the stainless steel and it rusts. Stainless steel must also be stored correctly. If it has been stored on a carbon steel rack, the same problems arise as with the tools. Once it rusts there is no healing. I would say it cannot be polished out. The only way to remove rust from a tank was to cut out the rust and patch it with a new piece of stainless steel.

So my guess is that poor manufacturing processes and not the stainless steel itself is the cause of the rusting. I highly doubt that soaps containing citric acid will corrode it since citric acid is used in a process called passivation to improve the corrosion resistance of stainless steel. Maybe a chemical engineer can enlighten us on this? Salt is very bad for stainless steel – especially with prolonged contact. And believe it or not, distilled (triple) water is also very bad for stainless steel. Jeff Jacobs

-Madison, Wisconsin

^

Q. I’ve been looking for new cutlery and found that every set I’m looking at is either made in China (big surprise) or Vietnam. Does anyone know of a brand that is made here in the US or at least not in Asia?

Florian Tanner

– Arlington Hts, Illinois

^

[This entry has been “historically edited” because there was no American-made silverware at the start of the thread; then, for a while, Sherill Manufacturing offered American-made flatware (and you’ll see references to that in this thread); but then the facility was closed (and you’ll see evidence of that here); but once again the facility has reopened. So, as of today, American made cutlery is available and we didn’t want to give the wrong impression that it isn’t. Hello Florine. I recently purchased French made stainless steel from Williams Sonoma and we are very happy with it. But see the note above, as it seems American-made cutlery is back in stock, at least for now. You can buy this American-made flatware directly from www.libertytabletop.com.

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

^

F.Ted,

Which French-made stainless steel have you bought from Williams Sonoma? As many people seem to be, I’ve been driving myself insane trying to find a reasonably priced stainless sample that isn’t made in Asia. Unfortunately, we don’t like any of the patterns on Liberty Tabletop – we just want a really simple, rounded handle. We found Williams Sonoma’s Morgan, which WS says is made in France. It was an exciting find but reviews have said it’s now 18/8 instead of 18/10 as before (the website doesn’t say anything about it but I’ve seen 18/10 on eBay items). But I think it might be better to get an 18/8 from France than an 18/10 from Asia? Which WS sample did you receive and how is it holding up? Anyone have experience with Williams Sonoma Morgan? Thanks very much! ChrisSmith

-Boston, Massachusetts, USA

^

Guy Degrenne

Cutlery “Beau Manoir”.

affiliate link

(Your purchases make Finishing.com possible)

A. Hi Chris. I bought the “Beau Manoir” pattern by Guy Degrenne cutlery from Williams Sonoma. I don’t currently see it on the Williams-Sonoma website (though maybe I’m not looking hard enough), but Amazon has it. My wife says that the knife blades occasionally get a rusty spot when they go into the dishwasher really dirty (perhaps caused by an acidic marinade drying on it), but we’ve had no other issues at all. I’ve been living with them for 2 1/2 years now but I don’t really like that the teaspoons are so small. I’m a muesli eater and neither the large tablespoon nor the dainty teaspoon seems appropriate to me 🙂 I would definitely agree that 18/8 from France is better than 18/10 from most of Asia. Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E.

Striving to live Aloha

Finishing.com – Pine Beach, New Jersey

^

Q. I have read the Questions and Answers and I also have a problem with stains on my cutlery. The brand (like the store) that sells them doesn’t want to take responsibility. Should you? The cutlery was very expensive so I feel really bad about it!

Thanks very much! Annasofi

Annsofi Cederlund

– Stockholm, Sweden

^

Q. I understand that 18/8 stainless steel is said to contain (among other things) 18% chromium and 8% nickel. Apparently there are ranges that are still considered suitable to still be 18/8 (I believe the range can go up). What happens if the steel has a lower nickel or chromium content? ie. 7.8% or 17.8%? Will this affect the safety of the products if the steel is used in food?

If the nickel level is low, what does it affect? and if the chromium level is low, what does it affect?

Finally, can you explain to me which electrolysis process stainless steel goes through? And also explain to me if a mess in this process could cause a bottle to rust? If not, what would cause stainless steel, which is supposed to be 18/8, to rust?

Many Thanks.

Nelson King

Student – Portland, Oregon

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Q. My Oneida cutlery has held up very well over the years but leaves faint gray stains on my stoneware that are very difficult to remove. Is there a cutlery composition that doesn’t? I thought about changing the dishes, but if the softness of the stainless steel is the problem, I’ll have to replace that too. Any information will be highly appreciated.

Linda Wildman

Consumers – Germantown, Tennessee

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Q. I am looking for gold rimmed stainless steel flatware as a gift for my daughter and am considering purchasing Vera Wang’s “Lace Gold” made by Wedgewood. I believe it’s made in China because it doesn’t appear on the internet list of stainless cutlery made elsewhere.

I am concerned about the pitting, staining and rusting issues frequently discussed on your website and the possibility of lead additives, given China’s questionable record in other areas of consumer safety. If you have any knowledge of these issues and this particular pattern, I would appreciate your advice on whether or not I should purchase this pattern. By the way, there is now an American manufacturer of stainless steel cutlery, but as far as I know, the company only makes one pattern, which is called “Pearls” and is produced by the company “Revolution”. This sample can be purchased online at www.silversuperstone.com. If I wasn’t looking for gold trim I would buy this pattern in an instant. Thanks for your time!

Anna Mueller

Buyer—Gadsden, Alabama

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Ed. Note: Sorry, but see www.nytimes.com/2011/02/13/business/13every.html. The Pearls/Revolution/Sherrill plant closed in April 2010.

Historically upgraded note: The facility was later reopened! 🙂

A. It is quite common for stainless cutlery to leave marks on light colored stoneware. I wouldn’t buy new cutlery as the quality is definitely lower (at a higher price!) than your old cutlery and it won’t fix the problem anyway. Use Bon Ami detergent or other low-abrasive detergent to lightly rub (don’t scrub!) these scratches on the dishes. I have older Oneida cutlery that has never corroded or become stained after years of use and has always been washed in the dishwasher. It’s non-magnetic, except for the knife blades, which aren’t 18/8 stainless steel (but have never been corroded) and still look like new. Randall James

– Culver City, California

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A. I would like to be a friendly person and say that everyone knows what they are talking about, but unfortunately I seem to be the only person who knows the real facts here. The main reason why the new steels are of such poor quality (apart from poor efforts by the manufacturers) is that almost all steels these days (but especially those from China and Asia in general) are made from recycled steel. Now imagine you smashed and melted down a car. Try to imagine what types of metals could be in the resulting ingot. The catalyst comprises platinum, possibly iridium, palladium or such metals. There may be a bit of cobalt from the glasses (bulbs, etc.). There’s a bit of mercury from tilt switches in various places, there’s gold from contacts in circuit boards. There is some germanium and arsenic in some of the circuit boards that are part of the silicon chips. There is a tin conductor on the circuit board lines. There is lead in the battery. There are a couple of small lithium-ion batteries on the circuit boards that preserve memory when the main 12-volt battery is momentarily disconnected. I guess you understand me here. So you can safely make stainless steel and add the right amount of chromium and nickel, but how do you remove those traces? The answer is, well, you don’t. Jetzt haben Sie ein schönes, glänzendes Stück Edelstahl, aber in dem Moment, in dem Sie es mit einer ionischen Verbindung (jeder Art von Salz oder Säure) wie Zitronen- oder Orangensaft oder Speisesalz in Kontakt bringen, und sofort dieses Platin und das andere katalytische Metalle darin werden beginnen, die Arbeit zu erledigen, die sie zuvor hatten. Sie brechen chemische Bindungen. Wie die Eisen-Kohlenstoff-Chrom-Nickel-Bindungen, die den Stahl zusammenhalten. Ich habe ein altes Auto aus den 1950er Jahren, das ich eines Tages reparieren möchte, das seit über 50 Jahren im Regen und in der Sonne steht und immer noch nicht verrostet ist. Und es ist nicht aus Edelstahl. Nur frischer Stahl, bevor das Zeug recycelt wurde. Schätzen Sie also Ihre alten Utensilien und hoffen Sie, dass die Marktnachfrage einige Unternehmen dazu ermutigt, ihre rostfreien Geräte aus reinem Eisen zu bestellen. Ich zahle gerne den 3-fachen Preis, wenn ich es bekommen kann. Leslie Leslie Miller

– Lac du Bonnet, Manitoba, Kanada

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Ich hatte auch das gleiche Problem mit Rostflecken, zum ersten Mal in meinem Leben, nachdem ich hochpreisigen Edelstahl von einer Firma gekauft hatte, von der ich dachte, dass sie amerikanisch sei! Es stellte sich heraus, dass das, was ich kaufte, überteuert war und hergestellt wurde, Sie haben es erraten … in CHINA … mit einem ausgefallenen US-Namen! Ich war sehr enttäuscht, aber es war mir zu peinlich, das Set zurückzugeben. Ich habe ALTE rostfreie “streunende” Stücke, die meine Mutter VOR JAHREN wahrscheinlich nicht viel gekostet haben. Diese Teile haben NICHT das Fleckenproblem und werden uns wahrscheinlich alle überleben.

A. Ich habe Pearls by Revolution gekauft … das einzige in Amerika hergestellte Edelstahlset. Ich hatte nur ein paar SEHR GERINGE Probleme … wahrscheinlich, weil die Spülmaschine mit stark verschmutzten Gegenständen überladen war. Ich habe festgestellt, dass es besser ist, die Messer von Hand zu waschen ODER in die Spülmaschine zu geben und den Trockengang zu verwenden. Wenn Teile stark verschmutzt sind, sollten sie auf jeden Fall abgespült oder leicht abgewischt werden, bevor sie in die Spülmaschine gegeben werden. Ich versuche, die Messer zu isolieren. Auch hier hatte ich nach vielen Monaten der Nutzung nur ein paar KLEINEre Probleme und die Probleme waren wahrscheinlich “Benutzerfehler”. Ich bin SEHR zufrieden mit diesem Set. Ein Freund von mir macht sich bereit, das gleiche Set zu kaufen, weil es hübsch ist und IN DEN USA HERGESTELLT!

Eine weitere Alternative zum SCHLECHT hergestellten importierten Schrott besteht darin, ein älteres Set bei ebay zu kaufen, das Set Ihrer Oma zu betteln, auszuleihen oder zu stehlen oder ein älteres Set in einem Vintage-Laden oder auf einem Flohmarkt zu kaufen. Freund des Barkeepers [affil. Link zu Info/Produkt auf Amazon] ist ein großartiger Edelstahl-Restaurator, aber seien Sie vorsichtig, um sicherzustellen, dass Ihr Set nicht zerkratzt, indem Sie zuerst einen kleinen Bereich testen. Hope that helps!

K. K. C. Miller

-Greenville, Tennessee

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F. Ich habe alle Kommentare über Rost und Lochfraß bei neuem Besteck gelesen, und leider auch bei meinem neuen Besteck. Ein weiterer Aspekt wurde jedoch nicht erwähnt. Aus dem Loch sickert eine braune, ölige Substanz, die wie Schokolade aussieht. Meine Sorge ist, dass es ungesund sein könnte, jetzt davon zu essen. Es lässt sich nur schwer ablösen und hinterlässt einen öligen Film auf der Messerklinge. Meine Frage: Was ist das für eine Substanz und wenn ich den Film abbekomme, ist das Austreten beim Essen eher ungesund? Soll ich es zurückgeben? Dies ist mein zweites Set; Das erste war ein Geschenk, aber es war so schlecht, dass ich jedes Stück, das vernarbt war, wegwarf, hauptsächlich Messer. Jetzt tut ein anderes neues Set dasselbe. Irgendwelche Meinungen darüber, was diese Substanz ist? Es hat nicht die Textur von Rost und kommt immer aus einer winzigen Grube, wenn ich es aus der Spülmaschine hole.

Dona Smith

– Seattle, Washington

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A. Ich habe das gleiche Problem mit neuem Besteck erlebt, sowohl Besteck, das bei Kitchen Etc für scheinbar viel Geld gekauft wurde, als auch Besteck, das bei Williams Sonoma auf meiner Hochzeitsliste gekauft wurde. Ich habe festgestellt, dass all das neue Besteck, das wir nach unserer Hochzeit gekauft haben, stark verrostet ist. Nicht nur die Klingen, auch die Griffe. Und sie waren alle mit 18/10 gestempelt. Also kehrte ich zu dem zurück, was meine Mutter und Großmutter taten. Ich habe ähnlich gestylte, aber immer noch nicht übereinstimmende Stücke bei Flohmärkten und Secondhand-Läden gekauft. Ich liebe den blumigen Schnitt und sogar die Giebelmotive, die ich gefunden habe, und hatte seitdem nie wieder ein Problem mit Rosten. Mein Mann legt Besteck drei Tage lang in Seifenlauge, wenn ich geschäftlich aus der Stadt gehe, ohne es zu waschen, und wenn ich zurückkomme, ist nichts verrostet. I am grateful for this other method of recycling because I have silverware that does not rust now. Martha Vance

– Chesterfield, Missouri

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A. There is ONE stainless flatware line still made in the USA!

Revolution Flatware from NY state. Mitch Stephens

specialty chemicals – New Brunswick New Jersey

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A. Electro-polishing or passivating will help to eliminate the rusting problem. Any free iron left on the surface from processing will rust and has to be removed. Also I think if you analyzed the SS you would find that there is a lot of other “stuff” in it from careless recycling. Bill Bergquist

– Minnetonka, Minnesota USA

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A. I am currently in a materials science class and I stumbled on this page while doing some research. I have some knowledge on this subject so here are my two cents.

Your knife blades are usually going to be made of martensitic steel which is usually 12-18% chromium, <1% carbon, and the rest iron. This is a magnetic steel and is very hard, and susceptible to corrosion. But it is still stainless steel so it shouldn't corrode very quickly. Other parts of your cookware should be austenitic steel which is 12-18% chromium, 9-12% nickel, <1% carbon, and the rest iron. This is the most corrosion resistant stainless steel and is nonmagnetic. So in an answer to one of your questions, the added nickel is what significantly increases corrosion resistance. Knifes usually do not contain nickel to maintain their hardness, but stainless steel has the ability to shield itself from corrosion with a constantly replenishing chromium oxide film on its surface. Unless you have penetrated the steel with a another carbon based metal, your cookware should not be rusting for quite some time. The only conclusion is that what they say is 18/0 or 18/8 steel is not what it says it is, and contains other impurities. John McPherson - Lubbock, Texas ^ A. I just searched for "flatware Sherrill" and found my way to Target.com and Made in the USA flatware is listed on their website! Hurray, maybe retailers are starting to listen! I'm going to see if any of the products are in the stores so that I can take a look at the flatware. Dell Green - Providence, Rhode Island ^ Q. I have spent years looking for a good set of flatware. I would rather buy "ugly" then "Made in China"! Fortunately enough, I finally found a set made in Japan by Yamazaki. I am very suspicious of anything made in Asia in general but still have some faith in the Japanese! Have been reading some good reviews on them too. Let's hope... Carolyn - Toronto, Ontario, Canada ^ A. Was the flatware you bought made in China or India? I purchase metal regularly and there has been some rusting issues with Stainless Steel purchased from these countries. Mark B [Last name deleted by editors for privacy reasons] - Santa Clara, California USA ^ According to their website Sherrill Manufacturing resumed production in August, 2011. Those of us looking for flatware made in the USA are back in business! According to libertytabletop.com they now offer 9 pattern choices instead of just the Pearls option. Source: www.sherrillmfg.com/details.asp?key=63714 Valerie Evangelista - Orlando, Florida, USA ^ A. 18/8 and 18/10 stainless cannot be hardened and therefore make poor knife blades. Therefore some knives are made in two pieces. The handle will be 18/8 or 18/10. The blade will be 18/0 or another alloy which can be hardened and will keep a sharp edge longer. So some knife blades will rust or be magnetic but nothing else will. Mark Perry - Somerset, UK ^ Q. I wonder to what extent the removal of phosphates from dishwashing detergents and making dishwashers use less electricity by eliminating the heat and forced air drying cycle contribute to these rusting and spotting problems? My experience is that, while we have had our stainless tableware for 20 years, the problems with rusting and spotting have been really only been in the last three years or so. In that time we bought a new Bosch 'eco' dishwasher and Phosphates have been banned in Ontario. Harold Leece - Welland, Ontario, Canada ^ Q. I have stainless flatware that is 34 years old and it is just now beginning to show very small discolored (rust?) spots on the tines of the forks and in a few other spots on teaspoons. This flatware has been used every day and washed in a dishwasher all of the time. I have looked at new flatware, and so far everything I have seen looks flimsy next to my old pieces. Since this set was a wedding gift, I do not know where it came from, although I believe it was a good quality set. The name says "Supreme Cutlery Stainless Japan" and ALL of the pieces are highly magnetic. Can you give any ideas on why my flatware is magnetic and yet appears to be high quality since the discussion I see here would indicate this is 18/0 and therefore a lower quality. Should I try to buff out the minor rust areas and keep this set rather than buying a new set or is a new set the way to go? Relda Kelly - Bourbonnais, Illinois, USA ^ A. Hi Relda. Buffing is okay, but is for the purpose of restoring shine (polishing), not rust removal. If it does not really need buffing to satisfy you aesthetically, treatment with proprietary citric acid, like CitriSurf, is a better way to deal with the rust. Stainless steel is the same material throughout, it doesn't wear off like paint of plating. So if you are still satisfied with its looks you should keep it. Much luck. Regards, Ted Mooney, P.E. Striving to live Aloha Finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey ^ Q. What is the safest, best metal I can buy on the market for my family? I'm looking for something that does not rust, chip, or erode away with years of use. Suggestions? Skylar V - Grand Ledge, Michigan ^ A. Hi Skylar. That is a matter of opinion, not of documentable fact. My opinion is that 18/8 or 18/10, from a reputable vendor, and not made in China, is the best. Regards, Ted Mooney, P.E. Striving to live Aloha Finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey ^ Q. In searching for replacements for 50 to 60 year old flatware backmarked "STAINLESS STEEL JAPAN" I find that all pieces are larger and of apparently better quality (brighter) than anything I have found so far in a a similar pattern but all parts are equally magnetic. What might make old magnetic flatware brighter after so many years of constant use. What companies might have manufactured this SS flatware in the early 60's? The pattern has three starbursts and the knife handles appear hollow handled. Chary Izquierdo - Annapolis, Maryland, USA ^ Q. I would like to purchase "Hammered Steel Rivet flatware, matte finish" sold by Restoration Hardware 18/8 stainless steel. Luckily, this set is more refined than crude, created by a metalsmith, and hand-forged with a hammered brass rivet accent. (www.houzz.com/photos/4937962/Hammered-Steel-Rivet-5-piece-Place-Setting-eclectic-flatware) They say hand wash ... does anyone know what will happen if I put them in the dishwasher? I have a large family and hand washing will never happen. And I would love to purchase them. They look like a black dull color new. Thanks Lin Linda Brown - Oxford, Connecticut, USA ^ ? Did anyone put the above thread to test in a dishwasher safely? donna harmatuk - new bern, North Carolina ^ ? Hello, Did you purchase and use dishwasher to clean? I just purchased and saw the "hand wash" label. That is not going to happen. Ha. Thank you for any response. Marion Mcknight - Santa Fe, Texas USA ^ ! I have some stainless steel that I have had since 1955. It is still as good as it was the day I got it. It is made in U.S.A. That should tell you something. I did purchase a set of stainless flatware at Target some years ago and it is doing well. Danielle ODIN - Las Vegas, Nevada ^

While 18/8 steel’s ability to resist corrosion, as well as its other beneficial properties, are enhanced by its increased chromium content. But the addition of other elements such as molybdenum, nickel and nitrogen can also contribute. There are over 60 grades of stainless steel, but the entire group can be broken down into just about five classes, each identified by the alloying elements that affect their microstructure (after which they are named) and how they react with those elements.

Stainless steel is a low carbon steel containing 10% or sometimes more chromium by weight. The chromium gives the steel its rust-free, corrosion-resistant properties. The chromium content of stainless steel also allows a rough, corrosion-resistant chromium oxide film to form on the steel surface. In the event of any damage, this film will regenerate – as long as oxygen, even in very small quantities, is present.

18/8 stainless steel is the most common and flexible austenitic form of stainless steel. The numbers 18/8 represent the composition of this steel; It consists of 18% chromium and 8% nickel, which makes it very resistant to corrosion and oxidation. 18/8 stainless steel is also very durable and easy to manufacture. It’s also easy to clean and comes in a variety of looks and finishes. 18/8 stainless steel can also be referred to as austenitic steel or 304 steel.

Corrosionpedia explains 18/8 stainless steel

18/8 stainless steel is an excellent metal for applications such as:

Automatic trimming and shaping.

kitchen equipment.

wheel covers.

truck bodies.

exhaust manifold.

storage tanks.

pressure lines and tanks.

The percentage of nickel and chromium present in this grade of stainless steel gives this metal good corrosion resistance properties, especially to moderately caustic and acidic solutions. It also behaves similarly under most non-severe conditions, except when welding. In cases where stainless steel is to be welded, 304L stainless steel is preferred as it offers higher resistance to intergranular corrosion.

In atmospheric and clean water environments, low alloy grades are the better option as they tend to be better corrosion resistant, while high alloy grades are corrosion resistant in most acidic, chlorine and caustic environments – properties commonly used in process equipment.

Compared to the 400 series, 18/8 grade stainless steel has better corrosion resistance. It can be hardened by cold working and is non-magnetic. 18/8 stainless steel has excellent corrosion resistance, but will show signs of corrosion when exposed to chlorides, making it not a good choice for marine applications.

The “18-8” label identifies products made from 300 series stainless steel. It refers to the alloy mixture of 18% chromium and 8% nickel – the two different alloys in steel. All 300 Series stainless steels are made from this 18/8 blend, although there may be differences in chemical composition when comparing different 300 Series grades. Certain grades tend to be more resistant than others to various types of corrosion.

Austenitic stainless steels can have a yield strength of around 200 megapascals (MPas) during manufacture and can then be strengthened by cold working, which can increase the yield strength by up to ten times. They can maintain their ductility at cryogenic temperatures and their strength at high temperatures, which is not possible with ferritic stainless steels. Their corrosion resistance is very high – from everyday use to boiling sea water. Although high quality 18/8 stainless steels have poor resistance to cyclic oxidation compared to ferritic stainless steels, they are also prone to stress corrosion cracking. The fatigue strength of 18/8 stainless steel is also lower (about 30% of its ultimate strength) than that of ferritic steel (about 50-60% of its ultimate strength). This increases the susceptibility of 18/8 stainless steel to fatigue cracking compared to ferritic grades.

Stainless steels are not all magnetic. Depending on the composition, there are magnetic and non-magnetic stainless steels. In order to be magnetic, it must meet certain requirements. To better understand stainless steel and its magnetic properties, let’s examine what stainless steel is.

What is stainless steel?

As an alloy, stainless steel is made up of a combination of metals, with the balance being iron but the main alloying element being chromium. Stainless steel resists tarnishing and rusting due to the elements it contains: iron, chromium, silicon, carbon, nitrogen and manganese. It must contain a minimum of 10.5% chromium and a maximum of 1.2% carbon to be recognized as stainless steel.

Chromium (in combination with nickel) is the component that gives stainless steel its resistance to corrosion. While stainless steel is often referred to as rustproof, it is not actually rustproof as the chromium builds up on its surface, making it withstand abuse much longer than regular steel without chromium. Passivation is the process of applying chromium to stainless steel to give it that shiny silver finish.

Image – The equipment in a dairy is made of stainless steel

types of stainless steel

Stainless steel comes in over 57 types of standard alloys as well as numerous custom alloys made by stainless steel fabricators. The composition of each type varies. Stainless steels can be divided into five categories based on their metallurgical properties and microstructures:

Austenitic stainless steels

Ferritic stainless steels

Martensitic stainless steels

Duplex stainless steels

Precipitation hardened steels

Combining austenitic and ferritic crystals, the duplex stainless steel offers the best of both worlds and is magnetic while generally exhibiting greater corrosion resistance than 304 and 316 austenitic stainless steels.

Ferritic Stainless Steels – These steels are magnetic primarily due to the presence of ferrite, a compound of iron and other elements. The crystals of ferrite and iron make this type of stainless steel magnetic. It’s also important to note that some stainless steels with ferrite have weak magnetic attraction.

Stainless steel grades 409, 430 and 439 are also known as ferritic stainless steels.

Martensitic Stainless Steels – This category includes many types of stainless steel that are magnetic. It is possible for martensitic stainless steel to have a ferromagnetic crystal structure when iron is present. The magnetism of martensitic steel is due to the fact that iron is the main component. Martensitic stainless steel has carbon trapped in its crystals and can be hardened to become extremely strong, but has lower chemical resistance compared to austenitic stainless steels.

There are three grades of martensitic stainless steel – 410, 420 and 440.

Austenitic Stainless Steels – Most of the stainless steels that fall into this category are non-magnetic due to the high austenite content. Despite the fact that some of the alloys, such as For example, grades 304 and 316 contain iron, these materials are not ferromagnetic. It is the crystal structure that is important for the magnetic properties.

Through the use of a thermal process or work hardening (e.g. bending, drilling, etc.) austenitic stainless steels can become partially magnetic and form ferrite in some areas. As a result, austenitic grades exhibit slight magnetism on machined edges such as sheet metal.

What makes stainless steel magnetic?

It is necessary for steel to contain iron and have either a martensitic or ferritic crystal structure in order to be magnetic.

There must be iron in the alloy

The alloy must have martensitic or ferritic crystal structures

Which types of stainless steel are magnetic?

Below are some examples of magnetic and non-magnetic as a quick summary.

Ferritic 430 stainless steel is magnetic

is Magnetic Austenitic 304 stainless steel is not magnetic, but can become somewhat magnetic in areas that have undergone cold working (bending, deforming, etc.).

is non-magnetic but may become slightly magnetic in areas that have been cold worked (bending, deforming, etc.). Austenitic 316 stainless steel is non-magnetic

This simplified chart compares 304, 316, and 430 stainless steel

Why does magnetism matter in stainless steels?

Magnetic fields, when applied to a material, can affect its performance and intended purpose. Magnets can cause complications in manufacturing and welding processes (a magnetic field can interfere with the weld spark and produce a less clean weld end). Electric currents can also behave differently when using magnets.

Some stainless steels are desirable for their resistance to corrosion and are also said to either support a magnetic field (e.g. 420, 430 grades), but others are desirable because they are corrosion resistant and non-magnetic (e.g. 316). The application requirements determine which type of stainless steel is more suitable.

You may also be interested in topics related to metals and magnetism

Some common grades of stainless steel

304 Stainless Steel – Sometimes known as SS304, it is the most commonly used stainless steel in both industrial and consumer applications. The chromium and nickel alloys in 304 make it resistant to many corrosive attacks. Additionally, it is used in a variety of industries because it does not require post-weld annealing (a reheating and cooling process that relieves metals of heat-induced stresses). A 304 stainless steel consists of 16-24% chromium and alloys such as nickel, carbon and manganese. 304 steel has excellent corrosion resistance making it suitable for most food applications. However, the presence of chlorides in passivated surfaces can cause pitting.

316 stainless steel (SS316) has the same properties as 304 stainless steel, except with a small addition of molybdenum to increase resistance to chlorides, making it better suited for products such as meat products and lightly salted foods. The chemistry of 316 stainless steel is similar to that of 304, but also contains molybdenum. Because of this, it resists corrosion much better. As with 304, 316 does not require a post-weld anneal.

316L Stainless Steel – There is no significant difference between 316L and 316 stainless steel. The carbon content is the only difference between them. Because 316L contains less carbon, it is more corrosion resistant than 316. Post-weld annealing is not required for 316L.

304, 316, and 316L stainless steels are austenitic steels, referring to their crystalline structure. An austenitic steel is stronger than a martensitic steel or a ferritic steel. The magnetic ferritic steels have low carbon content, low corrosion resistance and are magnetic.

Use the chart below to compare the corrosion resistance and strength of different grades of stainless steel to get a quick overview.

Stainless steel with less chromium, molybdenum and manganese has better corrosion resistance than stainless steel with more chromium and manganese. It is known that stainless steels with magnetic properties such as 409 and 430 do not resist corrosion as well as stainless steels with non-magnetic properties such as 304 and 316. It is unrealistic to expect this. The chromium content in grade 409 is 11%, which is sufficient for use in automotive exhaust systems.

Grade 430 contains 16% chromium and is primarily used indoors. The chromium content of grade 304 is 18%, making it ideal for general purpose and outdoor applications. Grade 316 is needed for marine environments as it contains 16% chromium and 2% molybdenum to help it resist salt corrosion.

What is the best stainless steel for the food industry?

For food processing, stainless steel is available in these three grades: 304 (1.4301), 316 (1.4401 or 1.4404), and 430 (1.4016).

316 stainless steel (SS316) is very popular in food applications due to its higher corrosion resistance compared to 304 stainless steel – when people speak of food grade stainless steel, they usually mean 316 stainless steel. The 400 series stainless steels contain more nickel than the 300 series, making them more susceptible to corrosion in harsh environments. As such, the 430 is slightly more prone to corrosion in acidic environments, but only with prolonged exposure. After 430 has been exposed to moisture, it generally needs to be dried as soon as possible to avoid corrosion.

The stainless steel material is a popular choice for many hygienic food handling applications. Not only can stainless steel withstand temperatures that would melt plastic, its oxide layer also keeps rust from contaminating food. Food grade stainless steel does not contain any chemicals that can leach into food, which is perhaps the most important factor.

Stainless steel is also beneficial in the food industry for the following reasons:

Corrosion-resistant: Stainless steel is particularly resistant to corrosion compared to other metals, making it ideal for use in the kitchen. Kitchen appliances are often made from food-grade stainless steel, which can be expensive to install. Because many grades of stainless steel are highly resistant to corrosion, equipment replacements are less frequent.

Compared to other metals, stainless steel is particularly resistant to corrosion, which makes it ideal for use in the kitchen. Kitchen appliances are often made from food-grade stainless steel, which can be expensive to install. Because many grades of stainless steel are highly resistant to corrosion, equipment replacements are less frequent. Strength: Stainless steel is an extremely durable metal, making it ideal for heavy items like appliances and shelving.

Stainless steel is an extremely durable metal that is ideal for heavy items such as appliances and shelving. EASY CLEANING: The obvious benefit of stainless steel is that it’s easy to clean. Other materials, such as plastic or wood, have grooves or openings that allow bacteria to enter and grow. Stainless steel is easy to clean because it is smooth and offers no hiding place for bacteria. To properly clean stainless steel, always use a food grade stainless steel cleaner.

The obvious advantage of stainless steel is that it is easy to clean. Other materials, such as plastic or wood, have grooves or openings that allow bacteria to enter and grow. Stainless steel is easy to clean because it is smooth and offers no hiding place for bacteria. To properly clean stainless steel, always use a food grade stainless steel cleaner. Cost: Stainless steel is a relatively low-maintenance material when properly cared for and maintained.

The use of magnets, magnetic separators and metal detectors in the food industry is crucial

It is common for food processing machinery to be made from 304 or 316 stainless steel. In most food processing plants, the product passes through multiple stainless steel machines and equipment. With thousands of moving parts wearing out on each other, small scraps of stainless steel can get into the product stream.

Image – Production of chocolates in a factory for the food industry

For this reason, we are often asked by customers if magnets can remove fine metal parts, stainless steel and even worn metal fragments from equipment. The answer is yes, magnetism can occur in work-hardened stainless steel, depending on the degree of work-hardening and the grade and size of the stainless steel fragment.

As stainless steel contaminants become mechanically fatigued/strain hardened (a mechanical fatigue process could also be referred to as “strain hardening”) they are now weak/ferromagnetic and therefore can be separated with magnetic separation equipment. Also stainless steel in fine particle form, i. H. if it has a size less than 0.1-3 mm, changes its properties to be paramagnetic. When a magnetic field is applied, it creates a magnetic response in the direction of the field.

Due to the work hardened stainless steel used in food processing, there is a serious risk of contamination. These contaminants can be so small as to be almost invisible (almost dust-like), so it is important that tramp metal contamination is minimized.

It is recommended that both metal detectors and magnetic separators be used because when the contamination of stainless steel is in a form that outweighs its magnetic susceptibility, a metal detector is required. However, there is also a chance that the metal detector may miss the tiny fragment (less than 3mm), requiring upstream high-intensity magnetic separation equipment. Our stainless steel magnetic separators use very high intensity neodymium (rare earth) permanent magnets, making them an excellent solution for the food industry.

Discover more related topics on Magnetic Separation for Food Processing

If you would like to discuss your requirements, Eclipse Magnetics has a team of experts who can assess your food safety business needs and help you select the right equipment for you. To book a free consultation, pre-audit site survey or equipment testing, click here.

Last updated on July 1st, 2020 by Marsh Fasteners

Stainless steel owes its high corrosion resistance to its low-carbon steel and chromium content. Stainless steel fasteners will not lose their corrosion resistance if scratched during installation or use. If you are looking for durable and reliable stainless steel fasteners in the market, you will find the following types:

• Grade 18-8 – Also known as the 300 series stainless steel, contains approximately 18% chromium and 8% nickel. The 18-8 series includes fasteners made from 302, 302HQ, 303, 304, 305, 384, XM7 and similar grade variables with similar chemical compositions. Some of the properties of the 18-8 series are: hardened only by cold working, non-magnetic and with superior corrosion resistance to the 400 series.

• Grade 304 (18-8) – this base alloy contains a minimum of 18% chromium and 8% nickel combined with a maximum of 0.08% carbon. This type of fastener resists normal rust and most oxidizing acids. Its insensitivity to food, inorganic chemicals and most organic chemicals makes grade 304 ideal for use in sinks, table tops, urns, ovens and various appliances. Fasteners of this type are also used in the brewing and food industries.

• Grade 316 – This grade of stainless steel fasteners is required in extreme environments. The carbon content is adjusted to 0.8% while the nickel content is increased. These fasteners are non-magnetic, can only be hardened by cold working and are austenitic. Molybdenum, up to a maximum of 3%, is the key difference between grade 304 and grade 316. Fasteners in this grade can withstand exposure to calcium salt solutions, hypochlorite solutions, sodium, phosphoric acid, sulphurous acids and sulfite caustics. They are typically used in the following industries: marine, chemical processing, textiles and more.

High quality stainless steel fasteners manufactured by Marsh Fasteners

At Marsh Fasteners, Florida, we supply the market with high quality stainless steel and marine grade fasteners. We offer exceptional durability and competitive prices when it comes to 18-8, 304 or 316 stainless steel fasteners.

To learn more about the different grades of stainless steel fasteners and to speak with the professional stainless steel fastener manufacturers, contact us today at Marsh Fasteners.

Differentiation of stainless steel types 303, 304 and 316

Grade 300 stainless steels are austenitic chromium-nickel alloys that are highly corrosion resistant, non-magnetic and have excellent formability and temperature resistance. Three of the most common austenitic stainless steels are types 303, 304, and 316. Although these alloys are related, they differ in areas such as chemical composition, material properties, and cost.

Type 303

The basic composition of Type 303 stainless steel is approximately 18% chromium and 8% nickel. The additions of 0.15% sulfur or selenium and phosphorus make Type 303 the most machinable alloy in its class, but slightly reduces its corrosion resistance. Despite this, it is still an optimal material for components that require significant machining or close tolerances, such as nuts and bolts, screws, bushings, fasteners, bearings and more. Type 303 is considered a cheaper, more machinable alternative to similarly composed 304 stainless steel.

Type 304

The most commonly used austenitic stainless steel, Type 304, is 18% chromium and 8% nickel with a low carbon content. This alloy is highly resistant to oxidation and corrosion, durable and easy to fabricate. Regarded as the most versatile stainless steel in its class, Type 304 is used in a range of applications across industries—from architectural details to kitchen appliances to automotive parts. Type 304 is easily accessible and less expensive than 316 stainless steel.

Type 316

Consisting of slightly higher levels of chromium (16-18%) and nickel (10-14%) than types 303 and 304, the most distinguishable properties of 316 stainless steel come from the addition of 2-3% molybdenum, an element that significantly improves the corrosion resistance of the alloy. Type 316 also exhibits improved heat tolerance, resistance to creep and pitting, and excellent tensile strength. Known for its ability to resist the effects of chlorides, the alloy is used extensively in chemical and marine applications, as well as a number of other industries. Type 316 has less formability than 303 or 304 stainless steel, but its greater durability makes it more expensive to source.

The properties that differentiate these common grade 300 stainless steels also position each alloy uniquely for specific applications.

Applications of 303 stainless steel

Highly machinable, non-magnetic and non-hardening, 303 stainless steel is well suited for applications that require tight tolerances and heavy machining such as B. in the manufacture of small parts. Typical uses of this alloy include things like:

shafts, sleeves and couplings

gears and valves

bolts and screws

Applications of 304 stainless steel

Type 304’s extreme versatility makes it the most widely used stainless steel on the market. This alloy offers exceptional corrosion resistance and durability and is suitable for a wide range of applications in almost every industry. Some of the most common uses are:

robotic systems and devices

food processing

waste water treatment

packaging equipment

car parts

optical systems

Construction of conveyor belts and heavy equipment

Applications of 316 stainless steel

316 stainless steel offers the greatest resistance to a wide range of corrosive elements and is the most suitable alloy for applications that are constantly exposed to harsh environments or where strength and hardness are a critical factor. This includes uses such as:

Stainless steel float

marine parts

Electrical enclosures for outdoor use

Chemical and pharmaceutical equipment

Medical devices and equipment

Stainless Steel Components by Stafford Manufacturing Corp.

Stafford Manufacturing Corp. is a global manufacturer and distributor of shaft rings, rigid shaft couplings and specialty mechanical components used in OEM and MRO applications for industrial and consumer products. The incorporation of Type 303, 304, and 316 stainless steel into our standard and custom components plays a vital role in enhancing their quality and durability. Our selection of stainless steel products includes:

Shaft collars with threaded hole

Two-piece split clamp cuffs

Adjust collars

Hinged collars

Shaft collars with square and hexagonal bores

Rigid shaft couplings and shaft adapters

Metric shaft collars, rigid shaft couplings and components

Contact us today if you would like more information on stainless steel material considerations for your next application or would like to learn more about the Stafford Advantage.

Stainless steel screws are ideal fasteners under most circumstances and are known for their rust and anti-corrosion benefits. The chemical combination of iron with alloying elements such as chromium, nickel, molybdenum and other molecules (in varying proportions) enhances the strength of iron to form stainless steel with its strength, durability and resistance to heat, cold, water and other elements. The right screws are as important a part of any build as woods, metals, cement, plastics, alloys and other composite materials in any building project – from decks to docks, sheds to schools and everything in between.

It’s important to discuss your needs with reputable suppliers like Leola Fasteners to ensure you have the right bolt for the right job. Sure, hardware stores have a variety of screws, but do they know exactly what type of screw is needed for decking? Would it be the standard 18-8 or Type 305? Well, it would depend on the type of wood, the climate, how the deck is attached to the house, and more. Or if you are building a boat dock or pool, could they share with you the benefits of a 316 screw that resists corrosion from salt water and chlorine? Leola Fasteners can do this because they specialize in stainless steel fasteners.

Most bolts and fasteners that builders require will fit 18-8 (grade 300-304 stainless steel), Type 305 stainless steel bolts are recommended for decks, Type 316 stainless steel for construction near chlorine, salt water and other corrosive atmospheres , while Type 410 stainless self-drilling screws are used when extra strength is required. Each type of stainless steel screw has a different chemical combination that will help hold your build together! Contact Leola Fasteners for recommendations for your next home improvement or professional build. They are here to help you.

18-8 Stainless Steel (18% Chromium, 8% Nickel, 0.08% Maximum Carbon) Standard grade stainless steel, types 300, 301, 302, 303 for most applications including freshwater environments.

305 Stainless Steel (17-19% Chromium, 8-10% Nickel, Maximum 0.12% Carbon) Stainless steel grade to improve cold heading properties, which means the specific screw can be more easily formed to meet specific building requirements, with less likelihood of breakage or abrasion. Most recommended for composite or wood decks.

316 Stainless Steel (16-18% Chromium, 10-14% Nickel, 0.08% maximum Carbon and 2% maximum Molybdenum) The addition of molybdenum to the stainless steel alloy makes 316 stainless steel fasteners ideal for construction in and around saltwater (and other corrosive) environments such as docks, piers, boats and buildings in and around coastal towns.

When it comes to buying stainless steel, you will likely come across three main options. These are the stainless steel types 18/10 vs 18/8 vs 18/0. What is the difference between these types of stainless steel and which one is the best of them all?

The main difference between these stainless steel numbers is the percentage of chromium and nickel in them. 18/10 steel means it contains 18% chromium and 10% nickel. 18/8 means that chromium is 18% and nickel 8%. 18/0 means it contains 18% chromium and 0% nickel.

These differences determine the properties of these stainless steels. For example, nickel has a direct impact on the strength and corrosion resistance of steel metal.

In this article, our attention is on 10/18. vs. 18.8.

What is 18/10 steel?

As previously mentioned, 18 and 10 are the percentages of chromium and nickel added to the stainless steel. It contains 0.1% carbon which is added to make the steel harder.

The carbon content is low because this material is easily corroded and rusted.

This steel is a common feature in the kitchen. Most cookware and utensils are made from this type of steel.

There are three distinctive features of 18/10 that distinguish it from other types of steel.

First, this steel is easy to shape. The steel can be cast into various shapes with minimal resistance. This affects the price of the utensils and cookware. They will be relatively cheaper as the manufacturing process wasn’t as involved.

Secondly, 18/10 stainless steel has a high resistance to corrosion. It can be used to store acidic liquids and other chemicals without being subject to the effects of corrosion. This property is essential for various food products as they tend to contain chemical elements that can easily attack other types of metals.

The third feature of this type of stainless steel is its high affinity for heat. 18/10 can withstand extremely high temperatures without suffering physical or structural damage.

This stainless steel also has a high nitrogen content. This property makes it ideal for the marine environment as it can withstand saline conditions.

It is also resistant to harsh chemicals. These chemicals include soda ash and are commonly used in cooking. The fact that it does not react easily with chemicals means that the food does not lose its original taste.

The main issue with 18/10 stainless steel is cost. This type of stainless steel is relatively more expensive than 18/8 steel.

Corrosion resistance of 18/10 stainless steel

18/10 has better corrosion resistance than 18/8 stainless steel. This means it can easily survive in various harsh environments. However, crevice corrosion may occur when used in a high chloride environment. On the other hand, stress corrosion can occur at temperatures above 60°C.

Heat resistance of 18/10 stainless steel

This steel has excellent heat and oxidation resistance. It can be operated up to 870 °C and used continuously up to 925 °C

18/10 stainless steel applications

-Kitchen equipment/kitchenware

-wheel covers

-Storage tanks

-Automotive moldings and trim strips

-Electrical cabinets

What is 18/8 stainless steel?

This is a steel alloy containing 18% chromium and 8% nickel. As with other types of steel, the main role of nickel is to improve the corrosion resistance property of the steel.

There are a dozen other elements found in this steel, only they are present in very small proportions.

Heat resistance 18/8 stainless steel

18/8 stainless steel has excellent heat resistance. It can resist oxidation up to temperatures between 870 degrees Celsius and 925 degrees Celsius.

However, it is not advisable to use this steel continuously under high temperatures. This is because its finish can be degraded by exposure to some corrosive elements. You should consider using 18/10 for high temperature applications.

Production of 18/8 stainless steel

The manufacture of 18/8 stainless steel requires the selection of special tools specifically designed for stainless steel. Work surfaces must be fully cleaned before proceeding with fabrication.

This is done to avoid any form of contamination that can affect the quality of the steel.

The corrosion resistance of 18/8 stainless steel

There is no doubt that 316 stainless steel has good corrosion resistance. It can resist various corrosive elements or when used in a corrosive environment.

In fact, this steel is sometimes classified as marine steel due to its corrosion resistance property. However, this does not mean that it is 100% perfect. Warm sea water can abrasively affect the surface of this steel metal.

Cracking and stress corrosion can also occur in this steel when the temperature is above 60 degrees Celsius.

Cold forming and hot forming of 18/8 stainless steel

18/8 stainless steel can be easily broken and formed into various parts. It’s also well-curated for stamping, drawing, and headings. Cold working helps increase the strength of 18/8 stainless steel metal.

Hot stamping can also be applied to 18/8 stainless steel. However, this should not be done for temperatures below 927°C. The most recommended temperature is between 1149°C and 1260°C.

18/8 stainless steel applications

– Marine parts

-outdoor enclosure

pharmaceutical equipment

-Chemical equipment

Summary of 18/10 vs. 18/8 stainless steel

18/10 Stainless Steel 18/8 Stainless Steel Chrome 16 Nickel 10% Molybdenum 2% Chrome 18% Nickel 8% Benefits -Stronger than 18/8 -Very high corrosion resistance -Resistant to salt and water -Resistant to corrosive chemicals -Suitable against pitting Benefits – Corrosion Resistance – Less heat sensitive than 302 – Stronger than most mild steels Disadvantages Disadvantages – Susceptible to saltwater corrosion – Requires special tools to machine – Requires special tools to machine – Susceptible to water

Regardless of what type of stainless steel you decide to use, always consult experts. That’s why we at Roche Industrie are always at your side with advice and action when it comes to 18/10 or 18/8 stainless steel.

Related source links:

Aluminum vs Stainless Steel: What’s the Difference?

Carbon Steel vs Stainless Steel: What’s the Difference?

304 Stainless Steel vs. 316 Stainless Steel: What Are the Differences?

Titanium vs Steel: What’s the Difference?

420 Stainless Steel vs. 430 Stainless Steel: What’s the Difference?

Surgical steel vs. stainless steel: What are the differences?

references

What is 18/10 stainless steel?

Rocheindustry specializes in high quality rapid prototyping, rapid low volume manufacturing and high volume production. The rapid prototyping services we offer are professional engineering, CNC machining including CNC milling and turning, sheet metal fabrication or sheet metal prototyping, die casting, metal stamping, vacuum casting, 3D printing, SLA, plastic and aluminum extrusion Prototyping, Rapid Tooling, Rapid Injection Molding, Surface Treatment Finish Services and other Rapid Prototyping China Services please contact us now.

Stainless steel guide

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303 Stainless Steel 303 Stainless Steel is an “18-8” chromium-nickel grade of stainless steel with sulfur added to make it a free machining grade. The easiest to machine stainless grade has good atmospheric corrosion resistance and is a good choice for screw machines. It is non-magnetic in the annealed condition and not hardenable by heat treatment. Typical applications are: nuts, bolts, shafts, bushings, screws, parts that need to be machined, ground or polished.

Chemical composition: Carbon: 0.15 max. Nickel: 8.00/12.00 Chromium: 17.00/19.00 Manganese: 2.00 max. Silicon: 1.00 max. Molybdenum: 0.75 max. Phosphorus : 0.040 max Sulfur: 0.050 max Mechanical Properties Tensile Strength 85-95 ksi Yield Strength 30-40 ksi Elongation 2″ % 45-55 Red. Area % 50-60 Hardness Brinell 160-210 Hardness Rb 83-95 Machinability % 75

304 Stainless Steel 304 stainless steel is a common chromium-nickel “18-8” grade of stainless steel. It has good atmospheric and chemical corrosion resistance. 304 is non-magnetic in the annealed condition, but can become slightly magnetic when cold worked. Not hardenable by heat treatment. A lower grade of carbon is available, 304L, which lowers the carbon content to a maximum of 0.03% for better corrosion resistance on welded sections. Typical applications include: applications requiring welding, architectural ornaments, oil, gas and chemical handling equipment, dairy, beverage and other food processing applications, surgical tools, valves, shipping drums.

Chemical composition: Carbon: 0.08 max. Nickel: 8.00/10.50 Chromium: 18.00/20.00 Manganese: 2.00 max. Silicon: 1.00 max. Molybdenum: 0.75 max. Phosphorus : 0.040 max Sulfur: 0.030 max Mechanical Properties Tensile Strength 80-90 ksi Yield Strength 30-40 ksi Elongation 2″ % 55-65 Red. Area % 65-75 Hardness Brinell 150-185 Hardness Rb 80-90 Machinability % 45

316 Stainless Steel 316 Stainless Steel is an “18-8” chromium-nickel stainless steel with the addition of molybdenum to significantly improve corrosion resistance and mechanical properties at elevated temperatures. 316 is generally non-magnetic but can become magnetic during cold working and is not hardenable by heat treatment. Its higher strength and resistance to corrosion, even at elevated temperatures, make it a superior choice over other chromium-nickel steels for applications exposed to chemicals and marine environments. A lower grade of carbon is available, 316L, which lowers the carbon content to a maximum of 0.03% for better corrosion resistance on welded sections. Applications include: pharmaceutical, aircraft, marine, paper, textile and chemical processing equipment, food processing equipment and surgical tools.

Chemical Composition: Carbon: 0.08 max. Nickel: 10.00/15.00 Chromium: 16.00/18.00 Manganese: 2.00 max. Silicon: 1.00 max. Molybdenum: 2.00/3. 00 Phosphorus: 0.040 max Sulfur: 0.030 max Mechanical Properties Tensile Strength 75-90 ksi Yield Strength 30-40 ksi Elongation 2″ % 40-50 Red. Area % 60-70 Hardness Brinell 150-180 Hardness Rb 80-90 Machinability % 40

410 Stainless Steel Precision ground 410 stainless steel flat stock is a basic martensitic grade of stainless steel with good resistance to atmospheric corrosion. 410 can be hardened and optimal qualities are achieved through hardening. Magnetic in all conditions. Uses include: valve parts, pump rods, pistons, cutlery, screws, bolts, machine parts for the food industry.

Chemical Composition: Carbon: 0.13 Chromium: 12.00 Manganese: 0.05 Silicon: 0.40 Phosphorus: 0.040 max Sulfur: 0.030 max °F Annealing 1550-1650 Hardening 1750-1850 Tempering 400-1400 Rockwell C 35 -46 Mechanical Properties Tensile Strength 95 ksi max Yield Strength 130 ksi min Elongation 2″ % 10-30 Red. Area % 35-45 Hardness Brinell 302 min Hardness Rc 32 min Machinability % 55

420 Stainless Steel Precision ground 420 stainless steel flat stock is a martensitic grade that can be heat treated to a hardness of 55 Rc with good wear resistance. Optimum corrosion resistance properties are achieved when hardened and tempered and it is magnetic under all conditions. Uses include: knives, scissors, bearings, plastic extrusion tools, molds and hand tools.

Chemical Composition: Carbon: 0.46 Vanadium: 0.30 Chromium: 13.00 Manganese: 0.40 Silicon: 0.40 Phosphorus: 0.040 max Sulfur: 0.030 max °F Annealing 1550-1650 Hardening 1850-1950 Tempering 400 -1100 Rockwell C 40-55 Mechanical Properties Tensile Strength 95 ksi Yield Strength 50 ksi Elongation 2″ % 25 Red. Area % 55 Hardness Brinell 195 Hardness Rb 92 Machinability % 55

When looking at 304 stainless steel versus 316 stainless steel, it’s hard to tell the difference between them. However, when manufactured with 304 vs. 316 stainless steel, the difference can be huge. Read on to learn about the two most popular types of stainless steel.

304 vs. 316: What Makes Them So Popular?

The high levels of chromium and nickel in 304 and 316 stainless steel give them strong resistance to heat, abrasion and corrosion. Not only are they known for their resistance to corrosion, but also for their clean looks and general cleanliness.

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How are they categorized?

Both types of stainless steel are found in a wide variety of industries. The most common grade of stainless steel is 304, which is the standard “18/8” stainless steel. 304 stainless steel is widely used as it is durable and easy to form into various shapes such as: B. as stainless steel sheet, stainless steel bar and stainless steel tube. 316 steel’s resistance to chemicals and marine environments makes it a popular choice with fabricators.

The five grades of stainless steel are organized based on their crystalline structure (how their atoms are arranged). Of the five grades, 304 and 316 stainless steels belong to the austenitic grade. The structure of austenitic stainless steels makes them non-magnetic and prevents them from being hardenable by heat treatment.

Properties of 304 stainless steel

Chemical composition

Grade Carbon Manganese Silicon Phosphorus Sulfur Chromium Nickel Nitrogen 304 0.08 2 0.75 0.045 0.03 18.0/20.0 8.0/10.6 0.1

What Are the Physical Properties of 304 Stainless Steel?

Physical Property Value Melting Point 1450℃ Density 8.00 g/cm^3 Thermal Expansion 17.2 x10^-6/K Elastic Modulus 193 GPa Thermal Conductivity 16.2 W/m.K

Mechanical properties of 304 stainless steel

Tensile Strength 500-700 MPa Elongation A50mm 45 Min % Hardness (Brinell) 215 Max HB

304 stainless steel applications

The medical industry commonly uses 304 stainless steel because it can withstand the harsh cleaning chemicals without corroding. As one of the few alloys that meet the Food and Drug Administration’s sanitation requirements for food preparation, the food processing industry often uses 304 stainless steel.

General Applications

Food Prep: Fryers, Food Prep Tables

Kitchen equipment: cookware, cutlery

Architecturally: siding, elevators, toilet cubicles

Medicine: trays, surgical instruments

Properties of 316 stainless steel

Chemical composition

316 contains many similar chemical and mechanical properties to 304 stainless steel. To the naked eye, the two metals look the same. However, the chemical composition of 316, which is 16% chromium, 10% nickel, and 2% molybdenum, is the main difference between 304 and 316 stainless steel.

Physical Properties of 316 SS

Melting point 1400℃ Density 8.00 g/cm^3 Modulus of elasticity 193 GPa Thermal expansion 15.9 x 10^-6 Thermal conductivity 16.3 W/m.K

mechanical properties

Tensile Strength 400-620 MPa Elongation A50mm 45% min Hardness (Brinell) 149 max HB

Applications of 316 stainless steel

The addition of molybdenum in 316 makes it much more corrosion resistant than similar alloys. Due to its superior corrosion resistance, 316 is one of the base metals for marine environments. 316 stainless steel is also used in hospitals for its durability and cleanliness.

Fun fact: The Chicago Bean is made of 316 stainless steel!

Common Applications:

Water treatment: boiler, water heater

Ship parts – boat rail, wire rope, boat ladders

Medical Equipment

Chemical processing equipment

304 Stainless Steel vs. 316 Stainless Steel: Heat Resistance

Heat resistance is an important factor to consider when comparing different grades of stainless steel. The melting range of 304 is approximately 50 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit higher than that of 316. Although the melting range of 304 is higher than that of 316, both have good resistance to oxidation in intermittent service up to 870°C (1500℉) and in Continuous operation at 925°C (1697℉).

304 Stainless Steel: Handles high heat well, but continuous use at 425-860°C (797-1580°F) can cause corrosion.

316 SS: Best performance at temperatures above 843℃ (1550℉) and below 454℃ (850°F)

Price difference between 304 stainless steel and 316 stainless steel

What makes 316 stainless steel more expensive than 304 stainless steel? The increase in nickel content and the addition of molybdenum in 316 stainless steel makes it more expensive than 304 stainless steel. On average, the price of 316 stainless steel is 40% higher than the price of 304 stainless steel.

316 or 304 Stainless Steel: Which is Better?

When comparing 304 stainless steel to 316, both have advantages and disadvantages that must be considered when deciding which to use for different applications. For example, 316 stainless steel is more resistant than 304 to salt and other corrosives. So if you are making a product that is frequently exposed to chemicals or marine environments, 316 is a better choice.

On the other hand, if you are making a product that does not require strong corrosion resistance, 304 is a practical and economical choice. For many applications, 304 and 316 are actually interchangeable.

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Kloeckner Metals is a full service supplier and service center for stainless steel. Kloeckner Metals combines a national presence with the latest manufacturing and processing technologies and the most innovative customer service solutions.