Is Potting Soil Safe For Leopard Geckos? Quick Answer

In the dead of winter, most gardeners think their efforts are limited to armchair activities—reading books, perusing catalogs, and planning the spring garden. Not so! Designing, creating, and maintaining a terrarium provides a gardener with an opportunity to apply gardening skills to a new occupation. You can buy plants, get your hands in the dirt, and create a beautiful, even mesmerizing, green vignette that will enhance any room in your home or workspace.

The focus of this article is on creating and maintaining an enclosed terrarium. The sides of the closed terrarium are higher than the plants and it has a lid. This differs from an open terrarium, which does not have a lid, or a dish garden, where the sides of the container are lower than the plants. Open terrariums and pot gardens are a bit easier to set up and the range of plants available is almost unlimited. When you build an enclosed terrarium, you create a miniature landscape with its own rain cycle. Your plant palette is a bit more limited. But once created, your terrarium requires minimal effort for maintenance.

The first step is to choose a container. It must be clear glass or plastic with a tight-fitting lid or lid. Colored glass doesn’t let in enough light for plants to thrive. You can use a container with a narrow opening, but planting and caring for it will be more difficult for you. While there are specially designed terrarium containers, other options include repurposed large cookie or candy jars, old fish jars, fish tanks, half-gallon mason jars, old apothecary jars, and lidded liquor sniffers. Choose a container that complements the decor of your home or office. Etched, ornate terrariums can be the centerpiece for a dining table (mine are). A cookie jar will work well in a kitchen. An apothecary jar could be a beautiful addition to a bathroom.

At every step of the process, be careful not to introduce pests and pathogens into your terrarium as this moist, enclosed environment is a perfect breeding ground. Wash your hands or wear clean gloves while building and maintaining your terrarium. Start with a very clean container. Wash with soap and hot water. Rinse well in cold water and air dry. If you feel the need to use a commercial glass cleaner, leave the lid off and wait a few days before planting for the first time. This gives time for any fumes to escape.

You need a soilless potting mix with relatively low fertility. Garden soil is far too heavy and compacts. Store-bought potting soil is a good choice, and most are sterile. Before adding the potting soil to the container, you need to mix in some charcoal. Just a handful or two is all you need depending on the size of your container. Charcoal adds organic matter and absorbs any chemicals or odors.

In earlier times it was thought that a layer of stones or pebbles should be placed on the bottom of the container for drainage. (It may be a design choice for a clear crockery garden or an open terrarium.) This is no longer the case. Place enough potting soil in your terrarium to match the depth of the largest root ball of your chosen plants. This soil should only be moist – not soaking wet. When planting, start with the smallest plants first.

When choosing plants, start with the saying all gardeners know: the right plant in the right place. A large number of plants will work in an enclosed terrarium. Most fall under either the wet forest or tropical category. Succulents and cacti are not good terrarium plants. Keep these for your open terrarium or dish garden. Choose small plants – slow-growing or naturally dwarf plants – that will fit in your container and have enough space. They should be healthy specimens. Remove dead or yellowed leaves before moving the plant to its new home. Moss, lichen, and ferns are natural choices for a terrarium as they love moisture and thrive in dim environments. Choose plants with similar light and moisture requirements for the same container. Of course, this depends on the planned placement of the terrarium in your home or office.

Your terrarium must not be exposed to direct sunlight. It will cook. The preferred location is in a bright room or near a bright window. Some of these plants need very bright light. Others do well in a darker room. Let your knowledge of the light requirements of indoor plants guide you here. If a houseplant thrives well indoors, use plants with the same or brighter light requirements as the houseplant for your terrarium.

You can buy special terrarium tools or make your own from things you have around the house. Clean hands are my favorite tool. A long-handled kitchen spoon is a good substitute for a shovel for digging a pocket in the soil while planting or for removing a plant later. A cork attached to a skewer or chopstick with a rubber band is a great tool for pressing down the soil after planting. The other tool you may need is a pair of scissors or very small secateurs to trim stubborn, damaged, or yellowed leaves.

Of course, the fun part is creating the design. The simplest of terrariums may only house a single specimen and can still be exceptionally beautiful when the right plant is paired with the right container. For terrariums with multiple plants, you should choose plants of different heights with different foliage, shape and texture. One consideration in plant placement is whether it will be viewed from just one vantage point or from all directions. If you’re looking at it from all directions, like a garden bed, plant the tallest plant in the center (the canopy), mixed with lower ones near the sides and low-growing “ground covers” (like moss or baby tears) if it’s just one direction, the tallest plant comes at the back. You can even choose to slope the floor so it’s lower at the back. Fix your design outside of the terrarium. It is much more difficult to adjust the design in the limited space of the terrarium. Don’t choose too many variegated plants or too many plants with colored foliage. This is a small room – more is not better. This is also a good rule for adding non-vegetable materials. Adding a rock or twig or a curving row of pebbles to mark a path is wonderful. But a few can quickly become too many. You can also create a miniature landscape with hilly ground and paths with buildings, small people, animals or fairies. You are only limited by your imagination and what you have on hand. Just remember to clean any items you put in the bin.

When your installation of plants and non-plant items is complete, you should clean any dirty leaves and the inner glass of your container. A soft, clean brush or paper towel can work, or you can use an atomizer. Your terrarium needs watering, but you need to be careful here. Misting may suffice. It’s easy to add a little more water later, but difficult to remove excess water. Their goal is to establish a rain cycle within the terrarium. The first few days require your attention. If there is water on the foliage, allow it to dry before placing it on the terrarium lid. Once the lid is closed, condensation should form on the inside, rolling down and watering the soil. The goal is to make the condensation look like a light mist. Anything heavier and you’ll have to remove the lid for a day or two. Diseases usually become established in the first few weeks. Proceed carefully to remove infections. You can use a diluted fungicide.

Once the rain cycle is established, your terrarium is almost maintenance free. Some experts recommend removing the lid for up to 15 minutes once a week to let in some fresh carbon dioxide. This is all the more important when the lid is extremely tight. Water only when condensation has stopped, plants are beginning to droop, or the soil is dry to the touch. And then, of course, walk carefully. If the lid is particularly tight, watering may only be necessary every four to six months. I check mine by sticking my clean finger in the ground. I have to water one of my terrariums every three weeks. The rest will need some extra water every six weeks to two months. Occasionally you may need to rotate the container as the plants tilt towards the light source. Cut off any leaves that have yellowed, are touching the glass, or are growing beyond the borders. You will need to dust or clean the outside, but avoid getting fumes from commercial cleaning products inside your terrarium. After a year you may want to fertilize with an organic water-soluble fertilizer at ¼ the recommended rate, but not during the winter. Spring is a good time to fertilize. After a year, you might want to refresh the design with a new plant or non-living element.

Now that you know how to make an enclosed terrarium, dig in the dirt and have fun with it! Create a beautiful new feature for your home or office that you can enjoy all year round.

As the popularity of naturally planted vivariums continues to grow and more people consider trying one of these beautiful environments for their herpes, it’s beneficial to review some of the important success factors.

One of the most important elements that is essential for healthy, thriving and beautiful vivarium plants and the health of vivarium animals is the vivarium plant mix. Using a suitable vivarium plant mix (usually referred to as “substrate” in the herp trade) is absolutely essential.

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Two problem areas

In my 30+ years of creating natural vivariums and educating people about them, the two areas that have been the most frustrating to get people to understand and act appropriately have been lighting and planting mixes. Using the wrong type and amount of light and/or the wrong growing medium will most often lead to vivarium failure.

Rex Lee Searcy

This poison dart frog (Epipedobates anthonyi) perches on a lush carpet of moss native to the Asian jungle, itself growing on a base of forest vivarium plant mix.

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People seem to have trouble believing that there is any real difference between proper vivarium potting mix and regular potting mixes or different reptile bedding materials. I understand it’s tempting to save money and time by just grabbing a bag of something at the local hardware store, but most products that aren’t specifically designed for vivariums are problematic in some way and usually perform either immediately or over time, to the deterioration of your vivarium environment and ill health, possibly even the death of your plants and animals.

Because deterioration can be gradual and long-term, it often goes unacknowledged as a problem. People often blame their troubles on an illness or other acute event that is actually a symptom of the underlying long-term cause.

Most potting mixes and some bedding or substrate materials sold in pet stores contain elements that are directly harmful or will eventually pose a problem in a vivarium environment. Some of these are harmful to plants, but more of them are harmful to animals, so be careful. Some of these problematic elements are cedar, green tree moss, heavy metals, uncomposted manure, peat moss, perlite, sequoia, mud, synthetic fertilizers, vermiculite, and water-binding gels. I don’t have the space here to go into the details of why these components are undesirable, but I have provided such information in previous articles – look for it in previous issues of REPTILES as well as on ReptilesMagazine.com.

the good stuff

Some good vivarium plant mixes have come onto the market in recent years. Look for those that use such components as ground coconut husk fiber (coir), chopped or diced coconut husk, fir or aspen bark, real peat moss (not peat or green tree moss), ground or chopped tree fern, and composted/organic plant and forest material. Some of these, developed and sold online by specialist vivarium companies, are quite useful as is. However, for best results, in most cases it is necessary to mix them with other materials to create a planting mix tailored to your individual needs.

To find prepared vivarium plant mixes as well as other natural vivarium supplies and vivarium plants online, google the following words/terms: vivarium plant mixes; vivarium substrates; vivarium supplies; vivarium plants; terrarium plants; greenhouse plants; tropical plants; fairy garden plants; miniature plants; dwarf plants; vivarium orchids; miniature bromeliads; tillandsia; dart frog plants; miniature cacti and succulents; aquarium plants; and tropical bog plants. you have the idea

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Rex Lee Searcy

A bonsai-like weeping fig, with epiphytic orchids, bromeliads and other plants in this tall rainforest varium grows in the basic forest varium plant mix.

It is very easy to make your own vivarium plant mixes using components that are available either online or from local stores. Below are a few recipes with suggested substitutions and variations to suit your specific needs. These mixes simulate the top layer (known as the horizon or topsoil) found in various types of natural environments, but are formulated to perform adequately in a closed vivarium. In a well-maintained terrarium, they should last at least several years before needing renovation. It’s best to prepare these mixes a few days to a week in advance and slightly moisten and let sit in an open container before use.

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Basic Moor Vivarium planting mix

Use this mixture in swamp or swamp vivaria (sometimes called “coastal” vivaria). It is not an aquatic vivarium or aquarium mix, but should be used in areas that are completely saturated with water, for emergent bog plants, with up to an inch or so of water above the mix layer, but not in open water areas. It provides a good anchoring medium for plant roots, holds nutrients, supports healthy biological activity, and stays in place better than plain aquarium sand.

2 parts natural sand, washed several times to remove the dust.

1 part ground coconut husk fiber

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¼ to ½ part fully composted leaves

High quality commercial pond plant fertilizer formulated for use in fish ponds – use only a quarter of the amount per volume of the mix recommended on the package

Microbial Inoculant – Commercial aquarium or pond inoculant or soil medium (about a handful of sand) from a healthy, established aquarium

Basic Desert Vivarium planting mix

Use this mix in vivariums in desert and other arid environments. This is a relatively dense blend with high mineral content and low organic content. It allows the top layer to dry out and forms a crust to allow stable burrows by lizards etc. while retaining moisture and coolness in the deeper layers for plant roots and animal comfort in burrows.

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2 parts natural sand

1 part ground coconut

shell fiber

½ part fully composted leaves

Organic, complete, all-purpose plant fertilizer including trace minerals – use only 1/3 of the package recommended amount of fertilizer per mix volume

Sulfur (Horticulture or Garden, Powdered) – 1 teaspoon per gallon of finished substrate mix

Chunky Forest Vivarium Mix

Use this in specific areas of the vivarium where plants will be planted that need excellent drainage and plenty of air around their roots, such as: B. some terrestrial bromeliads and orchids.

1 part basic forest vivarium plant mix (see opposite page)

2 additional pieces of bark/coconut shell cubes

Use plant mixes

Once your planting mix is ​​prepared, pack it firmly into the soil of your vivarium to ensure little settling later. You can create natural looking hills, slopes, valleys, etc. in your landscape.

Small, decorative rocks and wood can be placed on top of the mix, but large, heavy rocks that are important features of the landscape, rock waterfalls, rock caves, or rocks that animals can burrow under should all be placed either directly on top of the tank filled with the mix around them or supported on concrete blocks hidden in the mix under the rock. Otherwise, over time, they will sink into the mix, ruining your landscape, damaging your plants, and possibly crushing animals. All rocks and other “hardscape” elements should be placed before you start planting.

After you have prepared your plants by checking for diseases/pests, flushing them to remove any pesticide or fertilizer residue and removing as much old substrate as possible without damaging the roots, you are ready to plant .

Michal Durinik/Shutterstock

A feathered basilisk is a potential resident for a naturalistic woodland vivarium.

Dig your planting hole where you want it. Lower the roots into the planting hole and hold the plant in the desired position with the base at the same height as in the pot. Pour in the mixture around the roots and tamp gently but firmly in place. If your planting mix has been sufficiently moistened to begin with, you will not need to water each individual plant at this point. Once all the plants are in place, you can mist them for a few minutes. In the case of a desert varium, sprinkle in any newly added plants lightly.

Components of the plant mixture defined and described

Some of these components are familiar to people, while others are less well known. Some are readily available in stores, while others are materials that you must collect yourself. For example, partially composted leaves used to be commercially available, packaged and sold as “leaf mold” at most nurseries, but this is now difficult to find or unavailable in most areas. Use this information to ensure you receive the correct components.

Leaves, partially composted

Partially composted leaves are important for contributing a portion of the starting population of naturally beneficial bacteria and fungi. This creates a biologically active blend that breaks down and eliminates animal waste products to maintain a healthy environment. Partially composted leaves are also an important source of organic matter and nutrients for plants.

They consist of the dead leaf litter around the bases of trees and shrubs, in various stages of decomposition, from newly fallen surface material to the fine matter several inches deep. Small, relatively tough foliage varieties such as e.g. sycamore, etc., or that are delicate and get mushy too quickly, like maple. Also avoid leaves that can be very poisonous, like oleander, in vivariums that can harbor herbivorous herps.

Do not collect leaves from areas that may have been exposed to insecticides or herbicides. To eliminate possible unwanted insects and most weed seeds, spread the leaves out on a tarp or blanket in a dry place for two or three days. Beetles leave, dry up or are eaten by birds.

Leaves, fully composted

Same as previously described for partially composted leaves, except freshly fallen leaves and larger pieces are removed. Fully composted foliage is the very fine, dark, and crumbly leaf material from the lower layers of foliage.

Orchid/reptile/fir/aspen bark or wood shavings

Bark/wood chips are important in creating texture, friability, aeration, drainage and longevity of the mix. Make sure the product is fir or aspen – these species are most commonly packaged and marketed for reptiles or orchids. Do not use bark or wood chips from redwood, cedar, pine or cypress, which contain various resins, oils, phenols, tannins, acids and other toxic compounds dangerous to herpes and plants.

Bark/wood chips come in a variety of sizes or grades, typically small, medium and large. The medium variety is best for most vivarium applications. These are widely available at reptile/pet stores, hardware stores, online herp/vivarium suppliers, etc.

Coconut shell fiber (aka coir)

Coconut coir is a by-product of the coconut industry that is now used extensively as planting/bedding material for plants and herpes. It is a superior substitute for peat moss.

Coconut coir comes in sacks or compressed blocks. Soak and squeeze several times before use to remove any excess salts from processing and create a moist, fluffy material. Widely used in reptile/pet stores, hardware stores, online herp/vivarium suppliers, etc.

Coconut Shell Cubes/Chips

This is the same material as the coir described above, only cut into roughly ½ to ¾ inch pieces. They are generally interchangeable with the bark products previously described and may have a longer shelf life in the mix, increasing the effective life of the mix. They are available online from horticultural retailers and even on Amazon or eBay.

natural sand

Natural sand is usually extracted from quarried or ground rock and consists of a variety of particle sizes, with both very fine material (clay) and larger grains, up to the size of a small pea. It may seem “dirty” to you. It’s good. Some commercial sands that are typically suitable include decomposed granite (DG) and other crushed rock sands such as B. crushed sandstone. The best place to look for these sands is at rock suppliers. Most carry DG and other natural sands. Sandy soil collected from unpolluted desert or arid areas will work, but dirt from your yard will not. Some hardware stores also carry DG.

Avoid aquarium sand, play sand (for sandboxes, etc.) or quartz sand. You don’t want anything with uniform grains or just larger grains. Do not use sand or stones from the beach as these can contain excessive amounts of salt that will harm your plants and animals.

Fertilizer, natural or organic, complete for general purposes

Use a good all-purpose fertilizer with trace elements. Most fertilizer packaging has three large numbers on the label that indicate the percentages of the three main components: nitrogen, phosphate, and potash. These numbers should be about the same or vary slightly (e.g. 10-10-10 or 12-5-7, etc.).

The most common and important trace elements that should be included are boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc. All of this information, called Guaranteed Analysis, should be listed somewhere on the packaging.

Avoid fertilizers with large or colorful particles, as some lizards can eat some of the pieces, causing impactions.

fertilizer, pond

Use a good quality commercial pond plant fertilizer formulated for use in fish ponds. These are available from pond, koi, or lily pad suppliers and some hardware stores or garden centers.

sulfur

Powdered sulfur is available at most nurseries and hardware stores. It can be packaged as a soil acidifier or “bluing agent” for hydrangeas and other acid loving plants.

Most of the natural sands used to make the desert vivarium substrate mix are alkaline to some degree, so sulfur is used sparingly to buffer or balance the mix, making it more neutral. Neither the fertilizer nor sulfur described above will harm your animals in any way when used as described here.

Microbial Vaccines

​These are products containing different compositions of bacteria and fungi (Microryza). These are used to create base populations of beneficial microfauna in the soil or water to improve soil or water health and to aid plants in nutrient uptake and growth. This will make your vivarium plant mix immediately functional and effective.

A natural vivarium with carefully selected plants, the right vivarium planting mix, the right lighting and other appropriate environmental systems is truly a beautiful thing and the healthiest and most stimulating environment for your animals. A little research, effort, and some funds well spent will reward you with a perfectly functioning ecosystem that will serve you and your animals for years. reptiles

Rex Lee SEARCEY is a writer and environmental designer. Through his company, Secret Environments, he designs and installs custom environments for homes and businesses. Vivaria are his specialty, and he also designs terrariums, aquariums, custom dog runs, cat porches, chicken environments, indoor and outdoor water features, planters, and other semi-natural environments.

Not every floor is the same. The soil your tomatoes love will smother your succulents, and the soil that keeps your cactus in tip-top shape will shred your ferns. Finding the right soil for the right plant and purpose is part of the secret recipe to keeping your plants beautiful. So if you’re standing at the garden center on Saturday morning looking at the bags of soil and wondering what kind to buy, you know this: garden soil doesn’t work in your pots and potting soil doesn’t work in your garden. Here’s what you need to know about each one.

Leopard geckos are native to the hot and rocky desert forests of Southwest Asia.

A common misconception is that leopard geckos should have sand in their habitat. This is not true. Unfortunately, due to its popularity, there is a lot of misinformation about this species.

In the wild, a leopard gecko’s habitat is more rocky terrain and less desert.

The most important factors when setting up their enclosure are tank temperatures, coats and substrate.

This guide will teach you everything you need to know to set up the best leopard gecko habitat so your lion can live a long and healthy life!

Leopard gecko enclosure overview

The most important factor to consider for your leopard gecko’s habitat is tank size.

Adult leopard geckos will need at least a 20-gallon tank. In general, the larger the habitat, the better.

Anything under 20 gallons is generally too small to fit in a food bowl, water bowl, decorations, and pelts.

Some owners have chosen to house babies in 10 gallon tanks and then purchase a larger terrarium after the first year. This is not recommended as it is more expensive and time consuming.

Types of leopard gecko shells

There are four types of leopard gecko containers that you can house your gecko in:

Glass Wood Mesh Plastic

The best material for a terrarium is glass.

Glass leopard gecko enclosures are more popular and easier to find in a variety of sizes.

You can use wood if you really like the look. However, wood is a potential fire hazard and can be difficult for beginners to maintain humidity levels.

Glass

Glass tanks are very easy to clean and maintain humidity well.

They also have transparent sides, making them great for viewing your pet.

An advantage of glass tanks is the ability to glue thermometers, artificial plants and other decorations to the glass walls.

Glass cases are generally lightweight, making them easy to move around when cleaning or reorganizing the tank.

You can either buy a 20-gallon aquarium (with a mesh lid to match) or a reptile tank with side-opening doors.

The only disadvantage of glass habitats is their high price. A quality glass tank costs $100 to $200.

Wooden

Wooden enclosures are a good option for owners who want a beautiful living space.

Unfortunately, wooden enclosures are hard to find and do not provide practical habitats for leopard geckos.

They are also not as practical compared to glass tanks.

Wooden tanks can be damaged by wear and tear from water and heat.

Finally, these habitats are difficult to clean and tend to absorb water. This means their habitat needs to be cleaned more frequently to prevent mold.

The price of a wooden leopard gecko shell can range from $50 to $300.

mesh fabric

Wire enclosures are typically used for reptiles that like to climb. Veiled chameleons are housed in wire cages because they are tree dwellers.

Leopard geckos aren’t arboreal, so don’t climb them. For this reason, they should be housed in tanks that are long and not high.

Many wire cages are tall because they are built for reptiles that like to climb. Because of this, finding it in a 20-gallon long mesh tank suitable for a leopard gecko can be difficult.

If you do manage to find a long 20-gallon mesh tank, consider moisture and stress.

Mesh sometimes prevents proper moisture retention, and the visible open space can stress your gecko.

plastic

Plastic cases are the cheapest option on this list.

They usually cost $20 to $30.

Plastic tanks are usually an eyesore and don’t look as good as wooden or glass bodies.

If you choose a plastic case, make sure it’s non-toxic and PVC-free.

What size tank should I get for a leopard gecko?

Juveniles require a 10 gallon long tank. However, it is better if you can purchase an adult enclosure from the start. Adult leopard geckos will need at least a 20-gallon tank. A 20 gallon tank size also has enough room for a gecko to roam and explore.

If you decide to buy a smaller starter tank, remember that hatchlings grow quickly. Every three months they grow an extra inch.

Once they measure over six inches, they need a 20 gallon long living space.

Keeping two leopard geckos together is not recommended.

Housing more than one gecko in the same habitat can result in injury or death from territorial aggression. Aggression is common in both men and women.

If you decide to house multiple geckos together, use a 30-gallon tank with multiple skins so each has their own space.

Best leopard gecko enclosure

The best habitat for your leopard gecko is a 20 gallon long glass tank.

Glass provides a surface for thermometer and decoration, is extremely easy to clean and move, and makes observing your gecko a pleasure.

They may be more expensive than other types of tanks, but the functionality of glass is far superior.

Leopard gecko lighting and heating

During the day, your leopard gecko requires a heat gradient of 90°F to 75°F. The warm side of your tank should reach 90°F and no hotter than 35°F.

To heat their living space, you need to use a suitable heat source. A ceramic radiant heater is the best option. Make sure you connect it to a thermostat (read thermostat, not thermometer!) to control the heat.

They need to place a 13-25 watt UVB lamp on the hot side of their tank. Make sure the lightbulb is below 6% and only on ten hours a day.

Although a UVB light isn’t required, it may be beneficial for your leopard gecko to have one. In my experience, many geckos appear healthier and more vibrant with UVB light.

Make sure their UVB light isn’t too bright as it can damage their eyes.

Placing the bulb on one side of the tank creates a natural thermal gradient.

If you decide not to use a UVB light, make sure you use a D3 supplement.

Let the tank temperature drop to just over 70°F at night.

Leopard gecko moisture

Unlike other tropical geckos, leopard geckos should have a humidity level of 30 to 40%. You need to buy a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels. Stick it to the side of your glass terrarium.

Keeping humidity at 30% can be difficult, but keeping humidity below 40% should be easy.

If the humidity is too low, place a small bowl of water near the sunlight.

The water level should not be higher than your gecko’s ears as this can cause drowning.

You should also put wet peat moss in a pelt. When leopard geckos shed their skin, a damp coat helps. You need a cavernous hideout with an entry/exit hole. Make sure this designated hiding spot is near the hot side of their habitat.

If you find the humidity is too high, move the water bowl away from your heat lamp. If the air humidity remains high, it is essential to check whether the subsurface (e.g. reptile carpet) is not holding back any water.

Leopard gecko substrate

One of the most controversial and misunderstood aspects of setting up a leopard gecko habitat is its substrate.

A common and dangerous misconception is that leopard geckos live on sand.

Any form of loose ground such as sand poses an impact risk. Impaction is a blocked gut because your reptile has eaten something it cannot digest.

It is strongly recommended not to use a loose substrate.

Luckily, there are countless substrates that are easy to clean and pose no risk of disruption…

reptile carpet

Reptile carpet (pictured above) is an artificial grass-like material made specifically for reptile habitats.

Many owners use reptile rugs because they are durable, reusable, and inexpensive.

When you buy a reptile rug you get two. You have to wait a day after cleaning until it dries completely – otherwise you can accidentally increase the humidity in the tank.

The only downside to reptile rugs is that the artificial loops can catch on your leopard gecko’s claws and cause injury.

newspaper

Newsprint is also a great substrate for leopard geckos. It’s free and dry.

Paper towels are also a good substrate for the same reasons.

Both substrates are easy to clean and replace. The best way to keep newspaper clean is to clean it daily and replace it weekly.

Unfortunately, newsprint is ugly, so it doesn’t work for owners who want a themed tank.

shelf liner

Shelf liner is a great substrate for a leopard gecko’s aquarium.

Shelf liner is any type of rubber mat used for placing in kitchen cabinets.

Many people use this liner because of its low water retention and because it is easy to clean.

It’s also a great option because it comes in many different patterns and designs.

Shelf liners are also available in larger rolls so you can swap them out every few weeks.

Be sure to use non-stick shelf wrap. Sticky shelf liners are not only difficult to replace, but can also contain toxic chemicals in the adhesive.

Alfalfa Pellets

Alfalfa pellets are small feed pellets that are fed to rabbits and other small mammals.

Using alfalfa pellets as a substrate has some advantages, e.g. B. that it retains heat well and keeps bacteria away.

It is common to see alfalfa pellets in a bearded dragon tank.

Unfortunately, this substrate should not be used due to the risk of impaction due to its small size.

sand

Sand is an umbrella term for substrate, which includes products such as reptile sand and lime sand.

Many beginners use sand sold at pet stores.

Sand is aesthetically pleasing and seems like a good idea as these geckos are native to the deserts of Pakistan, Iran, Iraq and Afghanistan.

However, this substrate poses many health risks for your leopard gecko.

Sand should never be used for your leopard gecko’s habitat.

If a leopard gecko accidentally eats sand, it can block its intestines. This leads to many health problems and possible premature death.

Supplies, decoration and landscaping

The decor and supplies you place in a leopard gecko’s habitat should enrich its tank and make it natural.

In the wild, leopard geckos hide from predators in small spaces and crevices to escape potential danger. A good habitat for leopard geckos should therefore offer at least three hiding places:

The first coat should be placed on the hot side of the tank. This second skin is a moist skin with wet peat moss. A final coat should be placed on the cool coat.

Many owners build their own skins using a Tupperware with a hole cut out. Anything that stores moisture well is a functional coat. If you have more than three hiding spots, your gecko will have plenty of places to explore and rest.

Even though this species doesn’t have sticky toe pads like a gargoyle gecko, they still love to explore.

I would encourage you to place decorations that allow them to explore. My leopard gecko loves his reptile hammock and lying on a ledge.

Just make sure you don’t place any stones or decoration too high. This helps prevent injuries from falls.

It’s always a good idea to add artificial plants and branches for your gecko to climb on. It offers enrichment and adds charm to a tank. Real branches should be placed in boiling water for at least 15 minutes to ensure they are disinfected before adding them to the aquarium.

Finally, you will need a water bowl in her enclosure.

Make sure the water bowl is not too deep. It should be below ear level to prevent drowning.

Best Leopard Gecko Setup

Setting up a leopard gecko habitat can be daunting. Hopefully you now know exactly what you need!

Below we have compiled a list of everything you should include to ensure your gecko loves their aquarium:

20 Gallon Glass Reptile Terrarium.

Non-adhesive shelf film for substrate.

Three skins (hot, humid and cool).

Fake plants and branches.

water and food bowls.

Ceramic radiant heater and lamp.

25 watt UVB lamp (no more than 6%).

Thermostat, thermometer and hygrometer.

It’s important to remember that your leopard gecko will need a 20-gallon long tank, ideally made of glass.

A tank needs a heat source and a ceramic radiant heater is best. Provide a temperature gradient of 90°F to 75°F. A UVB tube lamp is also recommended – but this is optional.

Your tank needs to have a humidity level of 30-40%, which should be monitored with a hygrometer.

Several substrates are available, but paper towels, newspaper, reptile rugs, or shelf liners all work very well. Remember to always avoid loose substrate as this can lead to impactions.

Spotted something interesting to add to your exhibit? How did you set up your leopard gecko’s tank? Let us know below.

What is special about loose substrate?

Sand and other loose substrates are very controversial as a leopard gecko substrate. Many keepers argue that sand can kill a lion within 6 months of moving; Some others argue that they have never experienced any negative effects. The most vehement opinions are usually backed by claims that sand causes deadly impact on leopard geckos by turning into a cementitious sludge in their intestines. It’s true that calcium carbonate-based substrates (Zoo Med Vita-Sand, All Living Things Calcium Sand, etc.) can neutralize stomach acid and cause other digestive problems, even though it’s supposedly “digestible.”

Dusty sand also has a nasty habit of getting in reptiles’ eyes, causing injury and infection. The dust particles can also get stuck in a leopard gecko’s lungs, which is especially problematic if the sand contains silica.

So sand is bad, right?

Not necessarily.

After extensive research and deliberation on the subject, we at ReptiFiles have concluded that sand is safe for use with leopard geckos, but only if used properly. Pre-washed, silica-free play sand or fine-grain dune sand such as Jurassic Reptile Substrate and Zoo Med ReptiSand (linked above) are perfectly safe to use with leopard geckos, although we recommend mixing it with organic topsoil for best results.

Loose substrates that do not mimic leopard gecko’s natural habitat (tree bark, wood chips, paper substrate, etc.) are unsafe for ingestion and should not be used.

But what about impaction?

“Impact” is what happens when a reptile consumes one or more foreign objects that block the intestines and prevent proper digestion. Many leopard gecko keepers insist that sand has lethal effects and therefore loose substrate of any kind should never be used.

This is an outdated notion that has contributed to the widespread use of the minimalistic leopard gecko posture we see today. The truth is that impact is almost always caused by poor posture. If a reptile’s environment is too cold or otherwise inadequate, or the reptile itself is ill, it will not be able to digest properly and impaction will occur.

For more information, I highly recommend reading this article: Does Loose Substrate Cause Impaction in Bearded Dragons and Other Reptiles?

What is a leopard gecko’s natural environment like?

In the wild, leopard geckos are surrounded by limestone, with hardened clay soil at their feet. Sand and gravel are limited, nothing like the sand dunes mimicked by reptilian sand products. Some keepers have had luck with pure sand, but the aforementioned dredging clay, or a similar mixture of clay, soil, and sand, is the best way to mimic the terrain E. macularius is said to thrive on.

It should also be noted that leopard geckos are arguably the world’s first domesticated reptiles, with at least 40-45 generations bred in captivity. This means that captive-bred leopard geckos can differ significantly from those in the wild, from dietary requirements and digestive abilities to social habits. This means that while some wild-type leopard geckos do well in loose substrates, others may have more sensitive digestive tracts.

At the end of the day, do what is best for your gecko.

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Choosing a substrate can be one of the more confusing aspects of setting up a leopard gecko tank. There is much debate as to what substrates are safe and best suited for your specific age and size of a gecko.

Paper towels, while not as attractive in a terrarium as some other options, are one of the most popular substrates available. For hatchlings and hatchlings (less than a year old), paper towels may be the best choice of substrate. For adults, you have more choices, but with all the recommendations, it can be confusing to make a decision. Here’s a rundown of some options to choose from (and some to avoid).

paper towels

As previously mentioned, paper towels are one of the best substrates for juvenile leopard geckos (as well as sick geckos), but they can also be used for an adult leopard gecko. With paper towels, you don’t have to worry about swallowing or inhaling a substrate, and they’re highly absorbent, hygienic, and easy to clean, reducing the risk of illness. It also makes health monitoring (e.g. eating, bowel movements) easy.

The downside to paper towels is that your gecko can’t burrow into them, and they aren’t natural in their natural habitats. If your gecko doesn’t like to dig and you’re not concerned about a natural-looking environment, consider using paper towels as a substrate for your leopard gecko.

sand

Sand is where the substrate debate gets heated. Sand is considered unsafe by some due to the risk of ingestion and impaction (either from accidental ingestion or intentional ingestion to meet calcium needs). Sand ingestion is a greater risk for juveniles, so using sand with juvenile geckos is not usually recommended. Other potential problems with sand include dust, which can cause breathing problems, and bacterial or mold growth in wet sand. Still, some keepers prefer sand as a substrate because of the ease of scooping out the waste, the natural look, and leopard geckos’ ability to bury their bodies in it.

Healthy adult geckos with proper supplementation are less likely to ingest sand. If you decide to use sand, only use it with healthy adult geckos (never juvenile geckos or sick geckos). Choose a fine-grain sand. To reduce the chance of ingestion, feed your gecko in a different enclosure with a paper towel to reduce ingestion of sand particles. Calcium-based sand is claimed to be digestible, but digests too slowly to be considered a fail-safe option. Any kind of ingested sand can cause an intestinal obstruction that will require a visit to the vet, if not surgery. Provide calcium in the form of a multivitamin to meet calcium needs (to prevent MBD).

Feeding prey items in a bowl can also reduce the likelihood of ingestion. If sand appears during a bowel movement, you should stop using sand immediately as this is an indicator that your gecko is ingesting it. Also watch for signs of obstruction, which may indicate the need for an urgent visit to the vet. These signs include a decreased appetite, a decrease in bowel movements, lethargy, and dark spots on the abdomen (impacted sand in the intestines visible through the skin).

Pete Rowbottom/Getty Images

paper

Like paper towels, paper sheets are basic but safe and make cleaning your leopard gecko’s cage easy. You can get brown butcher paper or plain newsprint quite cheaply and just replace the substrate when it gets dirty.

Shredded paper bedding is also available and is usually safe for leopard geckos to burrow in. They don’t pick up paper litter often, but when they do, the paper used becomes very soft and should pass your gecko with no problem.

Indoor/outdoor or reptile carpet

This is also easy to clean and poses a small risk of choking (watch out for loose threads that could potentially choke or pinch a leg), but some rugs can be a little rough for gecko skin (monitor your leopard gecko’s abdomen for redness) . Have two pieces ready to make cleaning easier. If one gets dirty, remove it for a thorough cleaning and replace with the second piece. When the dirty one is disinfected and dry, you can simply replace it).

Pre-packaged bedding for reptiles

There are a variety of reptile bedding products available, and some people use these with geckos. Some are made up of small particles that could be ingested with food, and many experts advise against them. If you choose such a substrate, take the same precautions as with sand. Shredded shells and nuts are not good options for this reason, but substrates like a soil mix or wood chips have their own concerns. Large pieces can impale your gecko or get stuck in its mouth.

slate rock

Some owners use shale rocks embedded in a small amount of sand to anchor them and fill in the spaces between the rocks. If you can get smooth flat rocks this seems like a good option for creating a natural environment that retains and distributes heat well without much risk of substrate being ingested. The amount of sand between the stones is probably less of an issue than an open sandy area.

Substrates to always avoid

Wood shavings, wood shavings, corn on the cob, walnut shells, and gravel are not good for leopard geckos. As previously mentioned, these substrate options come with a variety of risks.

The best rocks for leopard geckos come with a variety of features that your reptiles will love. If you want your geckos to be as comfortable as possible in their tank, check out the products in this review.

Your geckos need to sunbathe, hide, climb and do whatever they need to do without much effort. Getting the most out of your gecko’s experience starts with making the right choice. All products reviewed in this post are affordable. So if you have a lot of leopard geckos to care for, you can make as many choices as you like.

Providing your geckos with these stones is less of a hassle. They will shape your geckos and make them compatible with their aquarium as if it were a natural habitat.

One of the pleasures of owning a reptile is creating an attractive vivarium for your pet to enjoy, often with live plants. Raising food for herbivorous reptiles is another interesting challenge. Whenever you buy or grow plants for your reptiles, there are a few very important things to keep in mind. Most plants you buy have been treated with a variety of pesticides, fungicides, and fertilizers. The residues of these chemicals in or on the plants can be harmful to your pet, even if the plants themselves are non-toxic. Be sure to only buy plants from a reputable nursery or organic farm that grows their own stock, and ask about chemical treatments used on the plants. Also pay attention to the soil in which the plant is potted. Perlite, a white, styrofoam-like pellet, is found in many potting soils and can cause distress in some reptiles if ingested in large quantities. When feeding plants to your reptiles, always monitor their droppings, weight, appetite and water consumption. Watch for signs such as salivating, rubbing the mouth or face, or changes in breathing, and contact your veterinarian if any unusual behavior is noticed.

Edible plants for herbivorous reptiles

Common name Scientific name Edible part Astilbe Astilbe spp. Carnation (Rosa) Dianthus spp. Petals Dahlia Dahlia flowers Dandelion Taraxacum officinale Leaves, flowers Ficus Ficus benjamina Leaves Geranium Pelargenium spp. flowers, leaves Hibiscus Hibiscus rosa-sinensis flowers, leaves Johnny jump-ups Viola tricolor spp. Flowers Pansy Viola tricolor hortensis flowers

Ordinary houseplants are considered safe for reptiles Vivaria

Ficus (Ficus benjamina) Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) – high in oxalic acid, may cause oral irritation if ingested in large amounts. Philodendron (Monstera spp.) – high in oxalic acid, may cause oral irritation if ingested in large amounts. Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) – sap may be irritating to skin The above lists are by no means exhaustive. For more information on safe and toxic plants for reptiles, the reader is referred to the following website: http://www.anapsid.org/resources/edible.html

When adding plants to your amphibian tank, it is important that you choose a safe type of soil. There are many different floor options and many amphibian owners are unsure which is right for their pet. On this page we will discuss what soil is safe for amphibians.

The safest soil for amphibians is organic soil with no added chemicals. Other safe alternatives include coco coir, peat moss, sphagnum moss, or even organic garden soil. The best way to ensure soil is safe for your amphibians is to sterilize them, even at high temperatures.

Curious about what soil to use for your amphibian tank? There are many soils to choose from and we’ll cover which ones you should and shouldn’t use. Read on to find out more.

Is potting soil safe for toads?

If you have one or more pet toads, potting soil is an excellent choice for your vivarium. If you have a toad tank, you should always line the bottom of the tank with a substrate material for them.

Putting down 3 to 4 inches of potting soil is safe for the toads and will help make the tank more comfortable for the toad.

Potting soil is a good choice for a toad’s tank because it can hold its droppings and is also easy for the toads to bury.

When choosing a potting soil for your toad’s aquarium, always make sure it’s organic. If potting soil is listed as organic, always check the ingredients before assuming it’s fully organic.

Potting soil should be free of pesticides and other toxins and sterilized to be completely safe.

Don’t buy potting soil that says “organic compounds from inorganic matter” on the label, as it may still come from fields where pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides have been used.

While potting soil can be a safe substrate for a toad tank, some substrates that are not safe for a toad tank are sand and gravel—although they are organic!

These relatively coarse-grained substrates can pose a hazard as the toad may choke on the tiny rocks, so I generally don’t recommend using sand and gravel if they will be in direct contact with your toad.

However, it is advisable to place a layer of gravel under a sieve below the potting soil. This helps with drainage so extra water and moisture in the tank doesn’t cause the potting soil to become soggy.

Can I use potting soil for frogs?

You can use potting soil in the frog’s aquarium if it is completely organic and has been properly sanitized before use.

These are usually more likely to be found in a gardening store than a department store, as most department stores with a garden section sell soil that is only partially organic or non-organic.

One issue that many frog owners see with 100% organic potting soil is that it can be very expensive, usually costing more than the owner was willing to spend.

It is recommended to mix organic potting soil with other organic matter such as coir to save money, bring in some ventilation and provide a safe living environment for your frog. When mixing the two soils, it is recommended to mix 40% organic potting soil with 60% coir (or other material).

What substrate types are safe for amphibians?

There are many types of soil that are safe for amphibians, but they must be 100% organic. Potting soil is a good choice if it’s organic, but true organic potting soil can be quite expensive. If you’re looking for a more affordable organic soil alternative, consider trying one of the following options:

Coconut fiber for amphibian tanks

Coir is the most common choice for amphibian tanks and is often completely organic. This substrate consists of fibers from a coconut shell. The fibers are ground down into a fine substance that is like peat moss. It is a very safe substrate for amphibian tanks and is easy to plant. It is also great for mixing with other organic soils to create a comfortable living environment.

Peat moss for amphibian tanks

Sphagnum moss commonly grows on bogs in humid environments. Once this moss begins to break down, it turns into a soil conditioner. This is one of the best soils for creating a wetter environment for the amphibians. It is recommended to place some under their shelters to make them more comfortable. However, this can also be used as the main substrate in the amphibian tank.

Perhaps you already know this moss as peat moss. There are nearly 380 different types of moss that can become peat moss. Peat moss is rotted moss, which is the state any moss must be in to be suitable soil for an amphibian tank. It also has a low pH so it won’t disturb your amphibian’s living environment.

Bark for amphibian tanks

Some amphibian owners like to use bark in the tank because it provides a good surface for amphibians to rest on and has a very natural look. The bark is also great for keeping moisture in the tank. However, the bark is a better choice for amphibians like snakes and turtles.

other substrates

Cypress mulch, sand, grit, gravel, and rocks are also substrates that can be used for amphibians. While sand and stone-based substrates are ideal in terms of their ease of sterilization (they won’t burn or melt when heated!), there is a risk of your reptile or amphibian choking on the stones. Like synthetic materials in vivariums, this can lead to digestive problems and, in the worst case, suffocation of the animal.

The soil contains microorganisms that can harm your amphibians

Having organic substrate for your terrarium is a good start, but it’s not enough to ensure it’s completely safe for our amphibian or reptilian friends.

This is because microorganisms still thrive in organic soil and can be even more present in organic soil types!

Microorganisms that can be harmful to your amphibian or reptile are primarily bacterial and fungal pathogens, but can also include viruses.

One of them, a pathogenic fungus, is the Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis, which is part of the Chytridiomycota fungal division.

This group of fungi is also known as chytrids and is largely responsible for the decline in amphibians worldwide.

This fungus and its spores are widespread in the environment, including soil, in warmer regions of the world (60-80°F) and could potentially be lurking in the soil you choose to use for your amphibians!

However, like other fungi, chytrids die at higher temperatures, so you can follow the procedures outlined here and summarized below to sterilize soil or other substrates for your amphibians.

How do you sterilize soil for amphibians?

So there are a few ways to ensure that the soil you use in your terrarium is free of fungi and other microorganisms.

The procedures are the same as for disinfecting any other item you would bring into your pet’s enclosure from the outside. I wrote a more detailed article on stone sterilization for reptiles here.

It is best to put it as a slurry with water in a pressure cooker for at least 15 minutes. Remember to always add water when using a pressure cooker, otherwise the soil will burn.

A pressure cooker is the most efficient way to sterilize soil without burning it.

This exposes the soil to temperatures of up to 250°F, killing any fungal and bacterial spores that regular boiling water won’t get rid of!

You can then lightly dry the soil in the oven at a slightly lower temperature (around 100°C), but make sure it doesn’t dry out completely as a slight humidity is preferable – especially for amphibians!

Another option is to use a microwave to sterilize smaller portions at a time. Here you have to make sure that the heat is well distributed, so you will have to stir the soil a few times during the process.

I usually put the soil in a bowl covered with a plate or other flat object as a lid. This will ensure the vapor stays in to improve heating.

Then I turn the microwave on medium. I use the medium setting along with a longer time duration as it spreads the heat more evenly throughout the sail thus ensuring proper sterilization.

However, it is not easy to monitor the average temperature of the floor with the microwave, so there is no guarantee that everything has been completely treated.

As such, I would recommend the pressure cooker if you live in warmer areas at risk for environmental chytrids.

The protocols shown here are only relevant for the floor and for other materials such as wood or stone you will need to use the other cleaning methods detailed in this post on using wood safety for reptiles and in this post on sterilizing stone for vivariums will .

Verdict

Finding a safe substrate for your amphibians is easy, but making sure it’s 100% safe takes some effort. In this article I have suggested a few different types of substrates that you can use in your amphibian enclosure.

Finally, make sure: