Juvenile Male Veiled Chameleon? The 139 Latest Answer

Chameleons are the cutest creatures. They are beautiful, fascinating, shy and extremely docile. You would think they make the perfect pets and you can hold them all day! But unfortunately that is not the case.

Chameleons don’t like being held. They dislike human interaction and love being in their own space. However, there are some types of chameleons that don’t mind perching on their human for a few minutes.

So let’s read more about the chameleons and which ones you can keep.

Do chameleons like to be held?

Chameleons don’t like being held at all. Living in the wild for centuries, they have adapted to hide from any danger. They have never been touched or touched by humans.

Nowadays people love to keep them as pets. However, they have evolved as a species that has never been touched, so they get stressed very easily. Note that stress is harmful to them, and significant stress can also kill them.

Also, certain chameleon species become uncomfortable. So they puff or hiss or even change color to black to show anger.

On the other hand, there are some species that will come out to greet you, perch on your shoulder or hand, and even eat right off your hand. Therefore it all depends on the type of kind you have.

How do you hold a chameleon correctly?

Gaining a chameleon’s trust is quite difficult. As we mentioned earlier, they are sensitive and shy and if mistreated they can get angry easily. They might not even let you handle it anymore.

So we have a few steps for you if you want to take care of your chameleon.

Step 1: Move closer

Get closer, but don’t startle them. You can just sit around them for a few minutes to let them get used to your presence. You don’t want to scare her because that will cause stress.

If you stick your hand right into their tank, they might even bite you. So stay with them for a while and then move forward.

Step 2: Offer food

You can hand feed them directly by putting your hand in the tank. This, in turn, will help them feel comfortable and help you bond with them if you do it regularly.

The panther chameleon in the video below feels so comfortable that it even comes out of the enclosure when it is fed.

Step 3: Get comfortable

Gently move your hand back into the cage after they eat the first feeder insect. They will expect you to give them food, so they will come near you.

In addition, they can even come to your hand. If you see that they are comfortable, you can pick them up with the right support.

Don’t force them, just let them come to you. If they’re comfortable, they’ll stay on your hand longer. But if they aren’t, they’ll make it clear by huffing.

Step 4: Offer support

Don’t let your chameleon dangle in the air. You like to hold things tight and your hand is new territory. So get comfortable and make sure your chameleon can grip your hand and fingers properly. They’ll probably freeze on your hand, but that’s okay.

Additionally, you can also give them a very light nudge on the back, basically just touch them. You might take this as a sign that they are moving forward and getting onto your hand.

Once your chameleon gets used to this habit, you can even let them move from one hand to the other.

These steps are easy to do on a younger and smaller chameleon. However, if you have a larger chameleon, you can also give it a branch to move on to. If they are already a branch in their terrarium, you can also offer them a flat palm under their chin to pick them up.

Step 5: Back in the Tank

When it’s time to put her back in her terrarium, gently lower your hand into the tank to a branch and let her run away. Make sure you’re still providing support and that she’s not falling. This could hurt her.

You will see that your chameleon will likely snatch the first branch it can reach and climb up the plant or tree in the vivarium.

You can also watch this video to better understand how to deal with a chameleon.

What to avoid when keeping a chameleon?

If you follow the above steps carefully, you will have no problem dealing with the chameleon. But if you steer away, it could become an instant problem for both you and your chameleon.

So we have a few pointers for you so you know what to avoid when owning a chameleon.

Do not Scare

Never startle your chameleon as it can become very stressful. The sudden movements in their terrarium will startle them and they may even bite you as a defense mechanism. Always approach your chameleon or its shell with the utmost gentleness.

Don’t caress

Don’t pet them right away when they climb on you. Give them some time to get used to your body. Let her explore a bit, and then when you think her moves are easy, put your finger on her to check her reaction.

If the reaction seems ok, you can lightly place your hand on it. Always pay attention to whether your pet is comfortable in something or not.

Don’t push

Don’t push them to climb on you. Let them come to you naturally because they won’t be as tense that way. Also, if they don’t come to you, don’t pull them out of her stomach.

In the extreme case, if you hurt a chameleon, they will bite you instead of snorting. Chameleons have sharp teeth, so it’s better not to be in their bad books.

Also, don’t chase them in their terrarium if they don’t come to you. Respect their boundaries.

Do not approach from above

Chameleons have a natural instinct and will mistake anything larger for a predator. In addition, the birds usually pick up the chameleons from the branches.

So if you approach from above, they will treat you like a predator and defend themselves. They can jump on you and bite you.

Also, do not approach them from behind, as this will have the same result. You should always approach them from the front so they can understand your intentions.

Don’t keep two chameleons together

Never keep two chameleons in one terrarium or in your hand at the same time. Chameleons are usually very territorial, so if they find another chameleon on your hand or on the branch they will fight it off. You can even try to eliminate the danger.

How do you know if your chameleon is unwell?

This panther chameleon’s body language clearly shows that it wants to be left alone. Double chin (snorting), open mouth, relatively bright colors.

Chameleons are great communicators when they are uncomfortable in any situation. If you mishandle them, act against their will, or lift them the wrong way, they will become uncomfortable.

It is always good to give them space and leave them alone in such situations. They will function better this way.

Here are some of the ways they communicate their discomfort:

Gaping

A chameleon gapes in different situations, for example when it is too hot or cannot breathe properly. But in a situation where you’re uncomfortable with how you handle it, it shows you that it will fight back.

Gaping means opening your mouth so you can see their sharp teeth as well. It feels threatened and under stress, so it will gape.

panting

Chameleons will puff under stress or fear and almost double their bodies to look bigger. In addition, they can blow up their throats and become bright. This can scare people and they withdraw.

run away

Chameleons have a fight or flight defense mechanism. If they are not in the mood to fight you or stare at you, they will run away from the situation. In case you squeeze them too hard to sit on your hands, they will hide in a corner to avoid this. This is a clear signal for you not to approach them again.

Bite

This is their last resort when nothing else works. Sometimes the owners really push the chameleons to befriend them or try to pet them. This usually happens if you haven’t researched them before getting them as a pet.

Their first instinct is always to stare or hiss at you, if you keep repeating your actions they may huff and eventually bite.

Turn black or show bright colors

It is very easy for a chameleon to become stressed at the slightest inconvenience. While they also turn black when cold to absorb all available heat, it’s also a sign of discomfort. When they are stressed, threatened, or afraid of something, they turn black.

In addition, chameleons show very bright colors when startled. So it’s not just the dark colors to watch out for.

hiss

Chameleons will hiss at you if you approach them the wrong way or startle them. You may also experience hissing and wheezing under stress. When they’re hurt or in pain, they hiss again.

Which chameleon species do you like to keep?

If you want a chameleon that is naturally calmer and more forgiving to deal with, consider getting an Oustalet’s chameleon, Rudis’ chameleon, Jackson’s chameleon, or a Parson’s chameleon. Other chameleon species are known to be more aggressive or fearful.

For example, a veiled chameleon and a panther chameleon can be very aggressive. The latter can only take it for a few minutes, but that’s pretty rare.

The former, on the other hand, are extremely territorial, so even a human is a threat to them. You can still handle these chameleons, some of them might even be okay with it, but you have to accept the fact that some species are less comfortable handling than others.

So if you’re looking for a pet that is naturally okay with being handled, check out the chameleons below.

Info: Pierre used to have a very trusting panther chameleon. It would come to the front of the enclosure when Pierre was around, and as soon as he opened the terrarium doors, his chameleon almost jumped on his hand. The reason for this was that the chameleon breeder treated the chameleons from the moment they were babies. So walking on humans was completely normal for these chameleons.

Oustalet chameleon/ Madagascan giant chameleon (Fucifer oustaleti)

The Oustalet chameleon is friendly and will let you hold it without any problems. It is better to get them when they are young so that they become more familiar to you. They let you hold them and don’t lose their calm that easily.

Even so, they are large, so use caution when handling an adult Oustalet chameleon that you do not know well. Always pay attention to body language, so you can tell early on whether your chameleon is upset or stressed.

Rudis chameleon (Trioceros rudis)

A fairly calm and docile chameleon, the Rudis chameleon doesn’t mind if you hold it for a few minutes. But if you overdo it, they want to be left alone.

Remember, just because Rudis chameleons tolerate handling better than other chameleons doesn’t mean they’re really okay with it. Always make sure that your Rudis chameleon shows relaxed body language when dealing with it. If not, keep the handling session short.

Jackson’s chameleon (Trioceros jacksonii xantholophus)

The Jackson chameleon is probably the most docile of the three. While not playful, they will make you want to hold them, but only for a few minutes.

Just like the Rudis chameleon, Jackson’s chameleons are relatively easygoing, they’re smaller, less dangerous than larger chameleons, and better tolerate handling, but you still need to make sure you don’t stress them out.

Parson’s chameleon (Calumma parsonii)

Parsons chameleons are often referred to as gentle giants. However, take this with a grain of salt. Not all chameleons will tolerate handling, regardless of the species, and if you have a parson chameleon that doesn’t want to be handled, you may have a problem.

Just like the Oustalet chameleon, Parsons are large chameleons and they can do some damage when they bite and it will definitely hurt more than a bite from a Jackson chameleon or a Rudis chameleon.

How Long Should You Handle Your Chameleon?

Chameleon Temperament Time Rudis Chameleon Calm and docile 20 minutes a week Jackson Chameleon Docile but not playful 10-20 minutes a week Oustalet Chameleon Friendly but shy 10-20 minutes a week Parson’s Chameleon Gentle Giant 20 minutes a week

It’s important to know that you can keep any chameleon if you treat it well and gain its trust. It’s about respecting them and their space. Any species of chameleon does not like being kept for long periods of time as this causes stress.

But these 4 chameleon species will still be less responsive than the others.

What happens when you hold a chameleon against its will?

You should always respect your pet’s wishes and if it is uncomfortable then you should never force the situation. But if you’re holding it against its will, then here are a few things that can happen:

1. Irritation

As previously mentioned, chameleons are shy and docile creatures and if disturbed even a little, they can easily become irritated. The irritation can lead to wheezing, hissing, and biting.

2. Stress

Stress is the worst thing that can happen to a chameleon. The slightest need, like treating them wrong or lifting them against their will, exhausts them. Light situations like a running dog or a cat watching him closely, or even a bird in flight can trigger stress.

But until and as long as they’re not touched, they stay fine. But if you touch them against their will, they will gape, change color and hide in the low and dark places. If the stressor is not eliminated, extreme stress can lead to their death.

Therefore, you need to understand the signs that your pet is showing, otherwise it can cause irreversible damage. Also, they can still be calm and tolerate you the first few times you hold them, but if this continues on a regular basis, they will fight back.

Even the most docile of all chameleons have bitten their owners due to extreme stress. There are different types of stress, but the one involving human interaction is emotional stress.

Others include a spike in stress when seeing another chameleon or a dog; external physical stress in which the outside temperature affects them.

You should know these stress levels and know how to deal with each type of stress individually. This, in turn, will help you gain your chameleon’s trust as well.

How do you get a chameleon used to handling?

If you are going to hold your chameleon, you may want it to get used to you handling it. Given below are a few tips that would help.

Tip 1: Be patient

It sometimes takes months to earn her trust and let her come to you. Some chameleon species are quite friendly and will happily join you within a week of their arrival.

Therefore, a young chameleon is the best choice for you as you can easily adapt it to your needs.

They can get used to your touch and hold, but adult chameleons will never enjoy this. So you have to be patient enough and not rush the process.

Veiled chameleons and panther chameleons are two of the most common pet chameleons, but both species can become stressed or angry if handled. Veiled chameleons in particular can become grumpy from the age of 1.5 years. Whether your chameleon tolerates handling depends on his personality and your patience.

Tip 2: Pay attention

Remember that handling a chameleon is not about you, it is about the pet. If they are not comfortable with something, they will communicate with you.

Watch out for their signs, if at any point they seem defensive when trying to pick them up then don’t move your hand.

The moment they think you’re not there to harm them, they’ll jump on you.

Tip 3: Build trust

Building trust helps in many situations. If you’re going to take your pet to the vet, you’ll need to hold them, or if they want to move to a certain tree, trust you to carry them. That is why you need to remain patient and build their trust in you.

Remember that chameleons see you as a predator, so they are easily scared of you.

Tip 4: Feed them treats

Treats are an all-time favorite among pets and this is the best way to make them comfortable. Start feeding them in their vivarium and after a few days you can keep the worm or other treats on your hand. They will come and eat from there.

Final Thoughts

Chameleons are cute and we love them for their different colors. We expect them to behave like a pet and try to pet them so that they like us. The situation is completely different with chameleons, as only a few feel comfortable with them.

Always know what your pet wants and never act against their will as it can affect you physically. We hope this article has helped you understand chameleons a little better.

That’s a pretty good average humidity level, it needs to be sprayed about 3 times a day on average and that should be with a dripper, I would spray for at least about 2 minutes. If he’s still drinking after those two minutes, you might want to nebulize an extra 30 seconds. I spray my Jackson for about 4 minutes and so my panther gets the same amount sprayed, he is less thirsty than her but my jackson is encouraged to drink slower and longer than my panther. Both are sprayed 4 times a day.

A chameleon’s diet in captivity, like that of any other omnivorous reptile, should be varied.

Depending on the species, fruit can also be part of your chameleon diet. Veiled (Yemen) chameleons eat fruits and vegetables, but panther chameleons typically do not.

Jump to:

What do chameleons eat?

Chameleons can eat:

grilling

Worms including: silkworms, calcareous worms, earthworms, buffalo worms, Morios, butterworms, mealworms, waxworms, bamboo worms and Pachnoda maggots

cockroaches

grasshoppers

Indian stick insects

Flies including blue bottle, green bottle, ring flies, black soldier flies, wax months and fruit flies.

In fact, there are easily around 30+ different feeders.

You have to keep in mind that all of the above differ in their nutritional value. So not all crickets are the same. Likewise with a cockroach and worms. They all differ in their core value.

But again, to “improve” this any further, you’ll have to gut-load these bugs. It doesn’t matter what the error is (see section Gutladen).

So remember that it is important to offer as many food bugs as possible.

And in the UK, a huge variety of insects is available to you, between ordering online from the likes of the Northampton Reptile Center and private live food breeders on various Facebook groups (like my Chameleon Network). So no excuses.

Chameleon diet in the wild

All chameleons, regardless of region/subspecies, have the same type of wild prey available.

This would be a variety of:

To fly

worms

grilling

snails

snails

caterpillars

Rodents climbing trees

day geckos

agamas

Small birds

Moderate the treats you feed your Cham

Chameleon Treats

Of the live foods listed above, some are considered “treats”. This is mainly due to their fat content.

These would be morio worms, waxworms, butterworms, bamboo worms, and the pachnoda maggots.

And since it’s a treat, overfeeding will only lead to health problems like obesity and fatty liver disease. So only feed them in pairs or threes as part of their varied diet.

Another big debate is the little mouse/rat. Many say these are not to be given, others will say otherwise.

Personally, I’ve fed a pinky once a month from time to time as a reward, or after one of my females has laid eggs for a calcium-rich protein boost. And I’ve never had digestive problems. And it would be part of their natural diet if the option presented itself.

Please note if you decide once a month it’s a good treat make sure you only feed a small mouse/rat. Nothing bigger.

The pinky has soft bones and a belly full of mouse/rat breast milk, so they are very rich in calcium.

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What Kinds of Fruits and Vegetables Can Chameleons Eat?

You can offer Veiled Chameleons:

pumpkin slices

sugar snap

Lamb’s lettuce

rocket

carrot

cucumber and

Berry

Although mine often eat these, I don’t really leave a bowl of them in the enclosure, knowing that my bug routine and gut-loading program covers the nutritional side of things well and really.

So it’s certainly an optional part of the diet. And if you try and they don’t take these, don’t worry at all. Focus on the mistakes and you’ll be fine.

A panther chameleon, on the other hand, does not eat vegetables or fruit. Although some may have been fed successfully. I personally don’t have that, so I don’t bother offering it now.

How much should a chameleon eat per day?

It was always age dependent for me:

A baby or young chameleon (0-6 months) should be fed two to three times a day and fed for about five minutes.

Then at 6-12 months I feed again once a day for five minutes.

At 12 months and fairly mature most of their growth is complete. There are still a few months of growth left, but all high protein growth is complete. It is now about maintaining variety and nutrition. So I’m feeding about 3x a week at this point. And yes, again for about five minutes.

You will definitely find that a chameleon’s feeding habits are often somewhat sporadic in adulthood. They eat several beetles on one feed, and then only two or three on the next. Don’t worry about that, it’s all about quality over quantity. Another reason why variety is so important.

Is your chameleon bored with its food?

Why isn’t my chameleon eating?

I am often asked that. And 90% of the time, it’s simply “lack of variety” in the diet. So the chameleon is fed up with its daily, boring live food. However, it can also be caused by parasites, a female preparing to lay eggs, incorrect setting parameters or the dietary supplements used.

Diet: The remedy in this case is simple, offer more species of bugs. As I said before, between online stores, even local pet stores, there is no excuse for not offering your chameleon a variety of live foods. I feed all my bug eating animals a variety of foods. For example. I feed 2x Black Crickets, 2x Locusts, 2x Silkworms, 2x Dubia and so on. I find that with this method they have something different with each bite. And I haven’t had a reptile or amphibian dissuaded from any type of food in years. Of course, any prolonged refusal to feed can also mean an illness. If nothing changes after a few days, arrange a veterinary check-up.

The remedy in this case is simple, offer more error types. Parasites: These are often parasites that every keeper encounters. So it is nothing to be ashamed of and simple treatment is required. If it is something else, the vet will advise.

Often these are parasites that every caregiver encounters. So it is nothing to be ashamed of and simple treatment is required. If it is something else, the vet will advise. Egg Laying: If you have a female chameleon, there is a good chance she is preparing to lay eggs. This is something they will do regardless of whether they are dating a man or not. At this point, most will stop feeding for the week leading up to laying. It’s perfectly normal, just make sure you have a burrowing/laying container ready for her to burrow into. And keep hydrated, hydration is even more important at this stage.

If you have a female chameleon, it could well be that she is preparing to lay eggs. This is something they will do regardless of whether they are dating a man or not. Incorrect setup parameters: Another thing it could be: Incorrect setup parameters. This means that the UVB or heat is not up to the required power/requirements. So heat and temperature can be too low or too high. (These requirements are mentioned and detailed in my previous article here on ExoticDirect). Also, your UVB may no longer be valid (12 months usage with T8 and T5 versions of Arcadia 6%, 12%. And ZooMed 5.0, 10.0. All other brands, 6 months). Or your UVB may not be at the right distance (see manufacturer’s packaging or my article on setting up chameleon varietals for details). All of the above can discourage a chameleon from eating as they have a major impact on food digestion.

Another thing it could be: Wrong setup parameters. This means that the UVB or heat is not up to the required power/requirements. Supplements Used: Another thing I found may also be – the supplements used. If you dust bugs in the calcium/vitamin powder, they shouldn’t be ghost white when fed. It only needs to be a very light coating, so it’s worth blowing off excess powder before feeding. Also, dietary supplements taste different than the chameleons. It is therefore worth changing them every six months anyway. I have found the Arcadia range of EarthPro-A and Calcium-Mg due to the added bee pollen, a flavor that a chameleon (or any bug eating reptile) will find much more palatable.

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Water for chameleons

For me, I offer a few different hydration methods. The two main sources are an automatic fogging system (not a fogger) and a plant dripper.

Automatic fogging systems: The automatic fogging systems I use are: the Mist-king and Exo Terra Monsoon, both of which do a fantastic job of getting things wet to provide drinking opportunities :-).

Both systems allow you to run the fog machine and activate spraying via nozzles that you position within a setup with a timer. And for your stipulated amount of time.

Mine go off twice a day for the panthers and once a day for the veiled. And each for about 45 seconds.

This is enough for my setup to get all the foliage wet. This gives the chameleon the opportunity to walk through the foliage and drink. Or actually lick the leaves. Both = job done.

Plant Dripper: As I said, my other main method is the Exo Terra Plant Dripper. This is basically a three-tiered construction of artificial leaves on an artificial plant stem.

Using a pump that you submerge in water, it draws the water through a hidden tube in the stem and allows the water to drip back into the water by the leaves. So it’s a constant cycle.

I submerge the pump in a small Tupperware tub and drill holes in the lid of the tub and place on top. The water is then safe from insects or faeces that might land nearby.

I have also used ZooMed’s Large Dripper before with great success.

Misters: These alone will not hydrate your chameleon. They’ll help maintain moisture, but that’s about it.

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Is tap water safe for chameleons?

In general, if the water is safe for us humans to drink, then all is well for the chameleons. However, it’s worth noting that chlorine is an irritant. And chameleons have very sensitive eyes.

I personally use a water conditioner with my water for my chameleons.

This is mainly out of habit of also being an amphibian keeper. And it’s important that you use a treatment to remove all chlorine from the water for these species. Several drops of ZooMed Reptisafe or Exo Terra Aquatize will do this for you.

Whether you end up treating the water or not is up to you. It’s your decision.

Gut loading error for chameleons

In short, gut-loading gives your overall live food a huge nutrient and hydration boost by feeding it quality greens, veggies, fruit, etc., thereby filling its digestive system with goodness. And when you feed your chameleon, that goodness is passed on to them.

Go with spring greens, arugula, squash, lamb’s lettuce, herbs, fruit, fresh vegetables, the list really is endless. I have taken great care in what I feed my bugs and again I change the food.

They want good nutritious food to be used, not just a piece of lettuce, which is what I’ve seen people do (that’s not good).

Treat these bugs as empty vessels of potential goodness and you must fill those vessels with that goodness. Then give these full vessels to your chameleon. Easy.

Although bug digestion times vary from bug to bug, a good rule of thumb is to feed and hydrate these bugs for a good 24 hours before feeding them to your chameleon. That way you can be pretty sure that the bugs have eaten and have a tummy full of moisture and goodness to pass on to the chameleon after eating.

There are a few branded items I recommend to help you with gut loading.

My number one help with gut loading would be Arcadia Insect-Fuel. This comes in powder form and is packed with items like alfalfa, bee pollen, and many other things—far too many to list. And it can be sprinkled on the veggies to add a huge nutrient boost. Or add a little water to the mix and it becomes a moist kneeling mix. And it provides hydration in the process.

To eviscerate crickets, you can use Nekton cricket feed. Not only does this smell a bit like banana milkshake, but all the bugs seem to enjoy it. And like above, sprinkle your bug food on top or set it out in a separate bowl.

My only other product that I use from time to time is Repashy Bug Burger.

This comes in a powder premix and you add boiling water to it. It will set and you can then cut it up and provide it to your bugs. Again. The nutrient content is enormous. So it’s a refreshing change for the bugs to consume.

If you are a reader of Practical Reptile Keeping magazine, I covered Gut Loading in great detail in the April 2017 issue.

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Why is my chameleon eating sand?

‘Geophagia’ (animals that eat sand/earth/mud/rocks) is widespread in the animal kingdom. The main reason in the reptilian world is due to supplement deficiencies.

Your chameleon would most likely be attempting to gain nutrients it believes are lacking; Calcium, magnesium, etc. Therefore, a review of your current supplement routine would be required.

But of course if your chameleon is gulping down sand and/or dirt I would definitely say there are more pressing concerns and a herp vet is needed ASAP.

Conclude

When it comes to your chameleon’s nutritional needs, the old adage “you are what you eat” has never been more true.

Treat the food bugs themselves as pets:

Feed and hydrate them (do this daily or every two to three days depending on the amount).

Keep them very clean (dead bug removal twice a week).

Give them plenty of room (don’t keep them in the tubs they were bought in).

Keep your chameleon’s diet varied to keep him from getting bored. And this of course enables the best possible supply of nutrients for your chameleon.

Staying hydrated = better digestion and eating, so find what works for your facility to do this.

If you do this, the benefits will be passed on to your chameleon. Then you are well on your way to giving your reptile a long happy life.

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Chameleons are a unique and bright species that have the ability to change color to blend in with their surroundings, regulate temperatures, and communicate with other chameleons. They can also change color when they are stressed or happy. Caring for a chameleon requires adequate natural habitats, i.e. H. large cages to accommodate their needs for climbing, privacy, and varying temperatures throughout their home. In addition, they require a high-intestinal and calcium-supplemented diet. This beautiful creature could be the pet for you if you are willing to commit to taking care of it properly.

Warning Being territorial and solitary, chameleons should be kept individually; Males are particularly aggressive towards each other.

Species Summary Common Name: Chameleon Scientific Name: Chamaeleonidae Adult Size: Widely variable – maximum 27 inches and minimum 0.5 inch Life Expectancy: 3 to 10 years in captivity

2:04 Click play to learn more about chameleons

behavior and temperament

Young chameleons are usually a dull grey/brown in color and may vary slightly in shade. By about five months of age, adult color and the ability to change color develop, and a range of colors – including green, teal, turquoise and black – are seen.

Changing colors provide camouflage, temperature regulation, and a means of communicating with other chameleons. Similar to anoles, chameleons change color in response to excitement, stress, temperature, light levels, the presence of another chameleon, and other influences.

Generally, a dark brown to black chameleon is emphasized, with the lighter colors reflecting a happier mood.

Chameleons use their tongues to catch prey. A chameleon’s tongue can be up to 1.5 times the length of its body, allowing chameleons to catch insects from afar. They primarily eat insects, but some eat vegetation and small invertebrates.

Chameleon feet have three toes that point in one direction and two that point in the opposite direction, giving them a good grip on the branches where they spend most of their time. Many species also have prehensile tails. They have spherical eyes that rotate like turrets and move independently, allowing them to scan a wide radius to look for food and look out for predators.

Housing a pet chameleon

Chameleons’ natural habits make caring for them difficult. Chameleons are tree dwellers, which means they live exclusively in trees. They need cages with ample foliage for climbing and privacy, and the enclosure needs to be fairly large.

A 3ft by 3ft by 4ft cage should be provided for the larger chameleons, but the more space the better. Adequate ventilation is required and a cage screened on three sides is best with poly mesh or vinyl coated wire to avoid toe injury.

Branches of various diameters must be provided for climbing, and most of the cage space should be filled with these branches or live foliage. Make sure the plants are not poisonous as the chameleon can eat the foliage. Substrate made of small particles (such as gravel, sand, bark or moss) should be avoided to prevent the chameleon from accidentally eating it while capturing prey.

Even in a chameleon enclosure there must be several sun areas with different temperatures. Some chameleons are more comfortable at higher temperatures, others at lower temperatures. Be sure to research your breed’s specifics.

Chameleons get their water from drops on leaves, so they don’t usually take water from a bowl. Sufficient water intake must be ensured either by a drip system or by spraying the enclosure at least twice a day.

Drip systems can be purchased or made from a water container with a small hole on top of the cage, or even by placing ice cubes on top of the cage to slowly melt and drip into the cage. If a drip system is used, keep the watering spot consistent so the chameleon knows where to find water. Misting also helps maintain humidity.

A drip system should be used to collect and remove excess water to prevent humidity from becoming too high.

light

Chameleons need exposure to UVA and UVB rays. In addition, exposing chameleons to natural sunlight through an open window (glass filters out almost all necessary UV radiation) helps keep chameleons happy and healthy. The UVB lamps should be on 10 hours a day.

Warning Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure you do not inflict a thermal burn on your chameleon.

food and water

Chameleons seem to do best with a variety of insects, so try to feed your pet as many types of insects as possible. Crickets, mealworms, superworms, waxworms, wax moths, and roaches are good feeds.

Prey food should be fortified with calcium and dusted with a calcium supplement prior to feeding. Some nutritious leafy greens (avoid spinach, lettuce, and kale) and other vegetables and fruits can be offered in small amounts as chameleons will occasionally eat them.

Common Health Problems

Many chameleons suffer from calcium and vitamin A deficiencies, usually the result of a poor diet. They are also prone to mouth rot, or stomatitis, an infection around the mouth that shows redness and excessive salivation or drooling.

Another common condition in chameleons is metabolic bone disease. This condition, which can be fatal if not treated appropriately, causes a chameleon’s bones to become spongy. They look lethargic and may lose their appetite.

As with any condition where your pet appears ill or stressed, it is best to consult a veterinarian who specializes in reptiles. Try to avoid home remedies before consulting a veterinarian.

The Spruce / Kyle Fewel

Choose your chameleon

When choosing a pet chameleon, it is best to find one that has been bred in captivity. Wild-caught specimens are usually extremely stressed, carry a heavy parasite load, and have difficulty acclimating to captive conditions.

Chameleons are not the hardiest of reptiles, nor are they the easiest to keep, and starting with a stressed pet will only make things worse. In addition, the capture and shipping of chameleons (which, fortunately, is more tightly regulated) leads to the deaths of many animals. Many more die in transit than make it to the pet store.

Once you find a captive bred chameleon, watch it. They should be alert, active, able to change color and have a fleshy body.

Different types of chameleons

There are different types of chameleons that are popular as pets. Here are some options to consider:

You can check out our other chameleon breed profiles here if you’re still deciding which is the right pet for you.

Chameleons make vitamin D3 by exposure to sunlight. Lack of access to sunlight can cause a chameleon to develop a metabolic bone disease, also known as rickets, which paralyzes a chameleon. The physical discomfort the chameleon feels from the illness can cause it to respond by hissing at its owner. Setting up the cage outside in the sunshine every day provides the chameleon with a natural source of vitamin D3. When natural light and heat sources are not available, the supply of artificial light and heat is required. Fluorescent lamps give the chameleon warmth to sunbathe. Mercury bulbs provide a UVB light source that helps the chameleon produce vitamin D3. The size of the cage will determine the strength of the bulb needed to provide the chameleon with a warm, well-lit environment.

needed, and my feeding questions were answered! I am very happy with this article and will keep reading it for help!”

…”

“I’m getting a veiled chameleon soon, and I’ve been busy researching. This article is exactly what I wanted

There are medical conditions that prevent chameleons from being in the tall trees. The most notable are Metabolic Bone Disease and Gout. Chameleons with advanced cases of either of these will either find it impossible or painful to hold on to branches. If you think the ground dwelling is medicinal in nature then a visit to the vet is in order. Both gout and MBD must be fairly advanced to cause soil lingering. If it has come to this stage, the treatment will be long.

Gout is a condition in which uric acid crystals collect around joints — including the wrists — making them painful to use. As the gout increases, the joints look swollen and it becomes increasingly difficult to use them to hold onto branches.

Metabolic bone disease is a condition in which the bones don’t get enough calcium, so they don’t have the strength to support the body’s weight. The bones become brittle and often break as the chameleon tries to move around the branches. With rubbery bones, the chameleon is forced to live on the ground. MBD can be stopped and even reversed to a small extent with the right treatment.

Whether it’s gout or MBD, veterinary help is crucial.

Um, under what circumstances? If your Cham is generally stressed and difficult to manage all of the time, you can help them adjust to you by setting your daily chores into a routine (Chams don’t like surprises and they do better with a predictable routine) . Offer your favorite insect treats by hand or in a hand-held mug. Not all Chams can handle a lot of human interaction. Some are more antisocial than others.

If you need to calm a Cham down really quickly in a particular situation, turn off the cage lights, cover the cage and allow it to cool. They are less reactive when their body temperature drops and there is less light.

We all know the distinctive features of chameleons. They change color, have rotating eyes and long tongues. A lesser-known trait is their ability to bloat.

Why do chameleons bloat? Chameleons bloat because something in their immediate environment is making them feel stressed. This inflated display is an attempt to stave off the source of his stress.

Of course, the reasons behind a chameleon’s bloating are a bit more nuanced than just stress, but stress is the primary cause of this behavior.

What causes bloat in chameleons?

As said, the main causes are stress, but there are certain situations that will cause a chameleon to bloat. These situations can be minimized if you have a pet chameleon or are planning to get one.

Stress – This is the main cause of bloating. There may be something wrong with the cage setting that is causing your chameleon to feel stressed in general. It could also be something in their immediate vicinity, like the room you housed your pet chameleon, that is too busy.

Guarding Territory – Chameleons, especially veiled chameleons, are very territorial. If they sense a threat to that territory from another chameleon or you, they will inflate as part of their defense mechanisms.

Fear – Many animals will try to make themselves bigger when they are afraid of something, especially when they are afraid of a predator, it’s part of the fight or flight response. This reaction is particularly strong in reptiles. When you see a chameleon fully inflate, they really do appear a lot bigger. So, bloat is a way to ward off potential threats.

Seeing Another Chameleon – This plays into all of the above, but is particularly amplified when you see another chameleon. Chameleons, especially males, fight for territory and appearing larger helps a chameleon intimidate its opponent.

Mating – Male chameleons puff up when they meet a female as part of a mating show. Females also puff up when trying to fend off a male’s unwanted advances. This is especially true if a woman is already pregnant.

Molting – This is a particularly frustrating time in a chameleon’s life, and bloating can help shed skin quickly and easily.

What should I do if my chameleon is bloated?

The most important thing is not to worry or panic. Bloating a chameleon is completely normal behavior.

In fact, it’s such an integral part of a chameleon’s nature that bloating is a good indication that your chameleon is healthy.

However, it is important that you recognize this signal as stress because too much stress is unhealthy for a chameleon. The sooner you eliminate the source of stress for your chameleon, the better off it will be.

Walk Away – If your chameleon puffs up as you approach its cage, it’s best to stop and walk away slowly. This is especially true if your chameleon is lower in its enclosure and below your head height.

Don’t try to hold them – This will make your chameleon really angry and there is a big chance that it will bite you.

Check the immediate area – If you’ve moved away and they’re still bloating, make sure they can’t see anything like a bird out the window or another animal in the room that might startle them.

Leave Them Alone – Bloat is the clearest signal your chameleon can give that it wants to be left alone. Of course, they can puff up due to the hair loss. You might be tempted to help, but it really is best if you let him do it.

Ignore Them – Once you have followed all the above steps, you need to ignore them. Looking at them only upsets them more and prolongs the time they feel stressed. Remember that stress is bad for your health, so you must try to minimize it as much as possible.

How can I prevent my chameleon from bloating?

I’ll say that again as it’s worth repeating. Just leave her alone! However, this is not always possible.

You may also have a chameleon that is particularly grumpy and puffs up a lot. However, there are ways you can minimize this and still take care of your chameleon’s needs, even when puffed up.

Move slowly – you still have to climb into the cage to clean, feed and so on. Chameleons, especially veiled chameleons, often bloat. So while attending to your chameleon’s needs, move slowly towards and around the cage, trying not to make any sudden movements.

Stay Below Them – Chameleons feel more secure the higher they are. So if your chameleon puffs up and is above you, you can still groom it by moving slowly. They are very unlikely to over inflate if you follow this advice.

Minimize Handling – It’s best not to touch your chameleon at all as they would really prefer not to be picked up. However, if you must handle them, keep this to a minimum. Once every few days.

Minimize Taking Photos – Sounds silly, but chameleons don’t like being filmed! One thing that made my chameleon puff up the most was when I took photos and videos of him. You can of course do this, but try using the zoom setting on your phone or camera. A big camera phone up close is scary for a chameleon.

Don’t Pick Up From Above – Again, if you need to hold your chameleon, never pick it up from above as this is very scary for your chameleon.

Make sure the cage is set up properly – This won’t necessarily prevent your chameleon from bloating, but it will minimize their stress if their cage is set up properly.

Wrap up

Bloat is a natural part of chameleon behavior, mostly caused by stress. If there’s one thing you take away from this article, this should be it.

Just pay attention to your chameleon’s signals and think about what it’s trying to tell you.

If you follow the advice in this article and do everything you can to minimize stress, your chameleon will live a long and happy life.

Vet Approved Tested and fact checked by Dr. Paola Cuevas Veterinarian, MVZ The information is up-to-date and reflects the latest veterinary research. Learn more ”

If you own a pet chameleon, one of your reasons for doing so is probably because of their awesome color-changing abilities. But did you know that they do this because of specialized cells in their bodies and have a wider range of colors than most?

As you probably already know, your chameleon will change color to blend in with its surroundings – at least that’s what we’ve always assumed. But many of your preconceived notions about why chameleons change color might actually be wrong.

As it turns out, not every color a chameleon adopts is a form of camouflage. So why do they perform this entertaining act? And how do their specialized cells actually work? These are things that have always puzzled us and now we want answers. Let’s get those answers in this article.

How do chameleons change color?

Most animals have pigmented cells that reflect light to express a specific coloration. But the difference between chameleons and other reptiles is that their reptilian friends have cells that can only pick up and reflect certain colors.

In chameleons, their pigment cells called iridophores essentially act like mirrors and are able to reflect a much wider range of colors. Pigments are held in tiny sacs in the chameleon’s body. But when a chameleon responds to an external stimulus, the iridophores either move closer together or farther apart, giving them the ability to reflect different colors of light.

As the cells move closer together, they can express darker colors with shorter wavelengths, such as blue or purple. As they get farther apart, they express longer wavelength colors like red or orange.

How can we see the color changes when the cells are inside a chameleon’s body? This is because the top layer of a chameleon’s skin is actually transparent, allowing us to see the different colors underneath. Read on to learn what can affect a chameleon’s color.

The 2 reasons why chameleons change color

You’ve seen cartoons and videos where a chameleon can change to match the color of any background to blend in with its surroundings. Of course, you didn’t expect that your pet chameleon could perfectly match a floral background so as not to be seen.

No, chameleons can’t transform themselves into crazy patterns like they do in cartoons. But what they can do is express certain colors as a form of camouflage. However, these colors are not, for example, light blue, red or purple.

When chameleons use their color as camouflage, they are usually green or brown to match the branch they are currently perched on. This is purely a defense mechanism to avoid being seen by predators as they have next to no other way of defending themselves.

However, when they do, they don’t technically change color at all, as green or brown with a specific, rod- or leaf-like pattern on their skin are a chameleon’s natural colors, depending on the species.

In this natural state, the chameleon’s cells are normally spaced apart.

While it’s partly true that chameleons use their color for camouflage, that’s not the reason they switch to colors other than green. Then why do they change color? Here are the two main reasons.

1. To express their mood

One of the main reasons chameleons change color is to express their mood. For example, chameleons that are green or brown by nature tend to be in a relaxed state, so they need to blend in with their surroundings.

If they’re not feeling particularly aggressive, they’ll just try to relax and avoid being seen as a result. This way people can go to their bedroom and close the door when they want some peace and quiet.

If your chameleon is changing from its natural color to a lighter color like blue, red, yellow, or even a much more vibrant green very quickly, it’s probably a sign that it’s feeling aggressive. These rapid color changes are most common in male chameleons when trying to defend their territory from another male or something else they perceive as a threat.

When a chameleon in the wild dims its bright colors in the presence of another male, it usually means that it is weaker and is either showing defeat or expressing that it does not want to fight.

A chameleon can also turn bright red when excited or angry. Dark colors that can appear almost black can be an indication that your chameleon is ill or stressed. Brown colors (if your chameleon is normally green) may indicate that your chameleon is a little sad.

In wild chameleons, brown could also be a sign of brumation, which is essentially hibernation for cold-blooded animals like lizards. However, pet chameleons are not usually subject to breeding as they are kept in a regulated environment.

In fact, as a chameleon owner, you can learn to recognize its mood by what color it changes. In most cases, a chameleon should return to its normal color after it feels that what threatened or upset it is over. If your chameleon keeps a color different from its usual color, especially a darker color, for longer than normal, it could be a sign that something is wrong.

2. As a mating ritual

Sometimes chameleons will switch to lighter colors to indicate they want to mate. The exact color they take on can depend on the species, but usually the color is red, blue, or yellow, especially on certain areas of their body to stand out from the females.

Female chameleons can also change color if they are not interested in mating or have already mated. They can develop a dark stripe across their body as a warning sign to any males attempting to mate with them.

Other theories

There is another scientific theory that has emerged recently that chameleons can also change color to regulate their body temperature. Although that’s the purpose of a heat lamp for your chameleon, the theory is that a chameleon can turn to a darker color when it’s cold to absorb more heat, and turn back to a lighter color when it warms up . But there is still very little research to actually confirm this theory.

Do all chameleons change color?

All chameleon species are capable of changing color. However, the differences between the species are what color they are in their natural state and how quickly they can change colors.

Not all chameleon species are kept as pets. The most common pet chameleon is the veiled chameleon, which is light green when showing its natural color. They actually show different colors only after a certain age. When they start changing color, they can do so in 20 seconds or less.

Yellow stripes are a common pattern for veiled chameleons. It especially happens when they’re feeling extra aggressive and don’t want to be touched or see their reflection and think it’s another male chameleon trying to get into their territory. It’s also not uncommon for a veiled chameleon to turn brown, but it should revert to its original green. If he doesn’t, that could be a sign he’s sick.

Other chameleon species not typically kept as pets can exhibit different natural colors depending on the region they live in. The panther chameleon, for example, is one of the most colorful species. It lives primarily in Madagascar and in its natural state can be green, blue-green, red, or even a combination of colors depending on where in Madagascar it actually lives. And just like the veiled chameleon, he can change color in just 20 seconds or less.

Final Thoughts

Chameleons are like the mood rings of the animal kingdom. Only their natural color serves as camouflage. Other colors reflect their mood. By paying attention to the colors your pet chameleon changes and its behavior when it changes different colors, you can learn a lot about your scaly friend.

Next on your reading list:

Selected image source: dimitrisvetsikas1969, Pixabay

So you are ready to get your chameleon? Congratulations! But first you need to know if a girl or boy chameleon would be better for you. Let’s find out what the differences are and how they affect you as a pet owner.

Male chameleons are larger, more aggressive, and lighter in color. They have a longer lifespan but are very susceptible to stress. Female chameleons are smaller and have duller colors. They are prone to medical issues like egg attachment, but are calmer and take up less space.

Those are the basic facts, but there’s more to learn before you decide which gender is the best pet for you.

What does it matter if your chameleon is male or female?

Knowing whether you should have a young chameleon or a female chameleon is important for a number of reasons. First, you want to give them an appropriate name, and that’s easier if you know the gender.

More importantly, male and female chameleons are very different pets. In many ways, providing women with adequate care is more difficult.

This is because their oviposition and birthing behaviors require special precautions, careful monitoring, and dietary restrictions.

Some owners shy away from the increased maintenance responsibility that comes with owning a female chameleon. Also, some owners balk at the possibility of having a less colorful pet (although I love the colors of the female panther chameleon!).

On the other hand, while medically they are easier to keep healthy, male chameleons are a challenge because they can become aggressive very easily.

They can display bright colors, hiss, and bite in response to the slightest change. This is not good for their health as it causes stress. It’s not the most pleasant animal husbandry experience either!

Male chameleons, being so much larger, also need larger enclosures, more food, more fog and higher temperatures. Females need less of all of this and require cooler habitats. All these extras cost time, space and money.

Let’s compare the characteristics of male and female chameleons of the 3 most common species kept as pets. These are veiled chameleons (Chamaeleo calyptratus), panther chameleons (Furcifer pardalis), and Jackson’s chameleons (Trioceros jacksonii).

What are the differences between male and female veiled chameleons (Chamaeleo calyptratus)?

Veiled chameleons are the largest of the widespread chameleon species. In most cases, the sexes can be distinguished immediately after birth.

This is because males have a small bump or spur that sticks out backwards between the toes on the hind legs. Although women can sometimes have these too, this is generally a good indicator.

At around 5 months of age, the differences between males and females become much more noticeable. Males’ helmets have grown much larger, sometimes over 3 inches. Females still have a casque, but it’s smaller. Males will also generally be much larger at this age.

Their colors are also distinguished. The males are now light green with some vertical bars of gold, orange and blue. Females will generally be a calmer mottled green throughout. Of course, these colors can vary between individuals and cultivars.

Here you can see the female veiled chameleon on the right and the male on the left.

It is also about 4-6 months when female veiled chameleons can start laying their eggs. For this, it is important to provide her with a deep container of soft, moist soil to bury in.

If she can’t find a good place to bury her eggs, she will become very stressed and possibly quite ill.

Egg-laying management is quite complex. Even successful egg laying takes a toll on your female chameleon’s health and shortens her lifespan.

If egg laying fails and she becomes egg bound, she may need surgery. Experienced owners can reduce these problems through careful temperature management, dietary restriction, and other grooming techniques.

Female chameleons need a deep pot with substrate to bury their eggs in.

Adult male and female veiled chameleons have very different temperaments. Males are territorial and easily angered. It is important to keep the males as calm and undisturbed as possible. Women are generally calmer and easier to deal with and relate to.

Comparison Table – Veiled Chameleons (Chamaeleo calyptratus)

Male Female can recognize sex from… Birth – 5 months. Birth – 5 months. Body length Longer and slimmer. 18-24in / 45-60cm Shorter and wider. 12 inch / 30 cm Colors brighter and shown more often. Usually green with vertical bars of gold, blue and orange. Quieter & rarely shown. Usually a mottled green. (Vertical blue bars and yellow dots = in heat.) Casque Taller. Up to 3+ inches. Shorter rostral process (long nose) No No Tarsal spurs (heel spurs) Yes Usually not Hemipenal ridges Yes No Horns No No Aggression level Higher Lower Lifespan 8-10 years 5 years Lays eggs No Yes Group life No No Habitat Needs more space, higher temperature, more UV light and more fog. Requires less space, cooler temperature, less UV light, less fog, but needs to be equipped with a digging pot to bury the eggs in. Behavior Territorial and aggressive towards other males. Shows bright colors when aggressive. Can often bite and scratch. Gets stressed easily. Not aggressive towards other females. Show colors to men, show acceptance or non-acceptance. Much more relaxed and tolerant towards people and dealings. Breeding potential Might deserve a stud fee. Opportunity to breed and sell chameleons.

What are the differences between male and female panther chameleons (Furcifer pardalis)?

Panther chameleons are more difficult to tell apart in the first few months of life. However, a good and experienced breeder may be able to tell the sex right after birth, as males are slightly gray in color when they are born and females are brown.

Still, the first indicator will be the presence (or absence) of a hemipenal bulge. This becomes clear when you examine the base of the tail just below the vent. If the curve is rounded and blunt, it’s probably a boy. If the tail is thin and the base of the tail curves inward, then it’s probably a girl.

At the age of about 3 to 6 months, however, the strikingly different coloring of males and females becomes clear.

Male panther chameleons are extremely showy and come in a wide range of different colors. Women are just as beautiful in my opinion and come in a range of pastel peaches, pinks and neutral colors like brown.

The faces of adult male and female panther chameleons are also very different.

Males develop a rostral process that looks like a long ridge on the top of their nasal area. Women, on the other hand, remain fairly smooth and round in the face.

The color difference in panther chameleons is enormous. The colorful chameleon is the male. The brown (sort of) is the female. The colors of female panther chameleons are considered boring by many reptile keepers. That is why male panther chameleons are very popular pets. We both think it’s cute!

Female panther chameleons also lay eggs from the age of 6 months (some earlier, some later, some never). Just like the veiled chameleon, it needs to be provided with a deep substrate to dig and bury the clutch.

As mentioned above, maintaining your female chameleon while she is laying her eggs requires careful habitat control, close monitoring, and additional dietary considerations such as diet. B. increased calcium supplementation.

Females are generally considered to be calmer and more relaxed pets, while males tend to be very reactive.

Comparison Chart – Panther Chameleons (Furcifer pardalis)

Man woman can tell sex from… 1 month – 6 months 1 month – 6 months Body length Longer and more voluminous. 12-18 inch / 30-45 cm Shorter and lighter. 10-14in / 25-35cm Colors Bright colors in many variations. Soft colors in peachy and neutral variations. (Bright pink = in heat. Bright orange with black = pregnant) Casque No No Rostral process (long nose) Yes No Tarsal (heel) spur No No Hemipenal ridge Yes No Horns No No Aggression level Higher Lower Lifespan 4-5 years 2-3 Years Lays Eggs No Yes Lives in Groups No No Habitat Needs More space, higher temperature, more UV light, and more fog. Requires less space, cooler temperature, less UV light, less fog, but needs to be equipped with a digging pot to bury the eggs in. Behavior Territorial and aggressive towards other males. Shows bright colors when aggressive. Not aggressive towards other females. Show colors to men, show acceptance or non-acceptance. Breeding potential Might deserve a stud fee. Opportunity to breed and sell chameleons.

What are the differences between male and female Jackson’s chameleons (Trioceros jacksonii)?

Jackson’s chameleons are quite special and very different from the rest. For one, they are easily distinguishable from birth thanks to the horns on their faces.

Male Jackson chameleons have the beginning of 3 horns between their eyes and nostrils. Females have none or one, just between the nostrils.

These chameleons are also much more similarly colored than their peers. Male and female Jackson chameleons are both quite a rich green color.

Males are more patterned and of course more likely to display vivid colors in response to aggression, for example.

Two Jackson chameleons show mating colors. Males have three horns, females do not.

Interestingly, female Jackson chameleons do not lay eggs! They are ovoviviparous, meaning they form a type of egg membrane and keep the eggs inside them until the young hatch.

At this time, she lays the eggs in such a way that they fall from a great height. The fall triggers the babies to erupt from the membrane, essentially allowing them to be born alive!

Because of this, female Jackson chameleons do not require a deep substrate for egg laying. However, they still need special care and increased levels of calcium in their diet.

There is still a chance that medical problems will arise, so special attention is required. The female also needs a high area to climb to drop the eggs.

Male Jackson chameleons can indeed be very aggressive. The horns on their heads are intended for fighting with other males.

The females are calmer, like the other species. However, this is still considered a species better suited to an experienced keeper.

Comparison Chart – Jackson’s Chameleons (Trioceros jacksonii)

Male Female can detect sex from… Soon after birth. Soon after birth. body length longer. 20-25 cm shorter. 7-8 in / 17-20 cm Colors Lighter green but with patterns including shades of yellow and blue. Green but less patterned. (Light green = accepts pairing) Casque Small. Small. Rostral process (long nose) No No Tarsal (heel) spur No No Hemipenal ridge Yes No Horns 3 horns No horns or 1 tiny horn Lifespan 8-10 years 5 years Lays eggs no no. Eggs develop inside the mother and she appears to give birth alive. Group Life No No Aggression Level Higher Low Habitat Needs more space, higher temperature, more UV light and more fog. Takes up less space, less fogging. Behavior Territorial and very aggressive towards other males. Shows bright colors when aggressive. Not aggressive towards other females. Show colors to men, show acceptance or non-acceptance. Breeding potential Might deserve a stud fee. Opportunity to breed and sell chameleons.

Considerations for keeping a male vs. female chameleon

Let’s compare some key factors to consider when deciding on a boy or girl chameleon. Who will come out on top?

Costs

That’s difficult to assess. Male chameleons need more food, use more energy for heating and lighting, use more foliage, etc. Basically, they need more of everything and it adds up.

However, female chameleons are much more likely to require frequent vet visits. All this medical care can cost a lot of money.

While this factor could fluctuate either way, it’s likely that keeping a female chameleon will cost more. Men are the winners.

place

Males are larger, they need larger enclosures. You’re also a lot more reactive, and you might end up with a person who really needs some peace and quiet. For these reasons, males take up more space. In this round, the women are the winners.

The female panther chameleon at the top is probably not fully grown yet, but you can see that the size difference between males and females is quite large.

friendliness

As a general rule (but not a guarantee), the females of all the chameleon species we’ve looked at today are calmer and more composed. They are less likely to become stressed from handling (as long as they are not pregnant) and in that sense can be more agreeable pets. The females win this round!

life span

Males have longer lifespans, ranging from 10 years for Veiled and Jackson’s chameleons and 5 years for panthers. Females have a shorter lifespan of 2-6 years, thanks to the heavy stress that egg-laying places on their bodies.

It really depends on how long you want to commit to keeping pets as to what is best for you. This round ends in a draw.

Colours

Again, while this is somewhat dependent on personal preference, most owners will want a colorful and bright chameleon. The males are always more colorful, so the males are the clear winners in this round.

You should get a female chameleon if…

You are an experienced reptile keeper.

They are willing to pay for frequent vet bills when needed.

They are willing to provide proper care related to egg laying.

You want to breed baby chameleons.

You want to be able to handle your chameleon.

They do not mind that they have less bright colors.

They have other reptiles and they can be kept close by.

You want a pet for a shorter term of around 5 years.

You want to name her Chamee-Leanne.

You should get a male chameleon if…

Raising male and female veiled together

Just to answer that for you all. When I first started breeding chameleons, I raised an unrelated trio together. They have done well and have never gone downhill. The males and females were not aggressive towards each other. All chameleons have distinct personalities. If you have chameleons together and they seem to be stressing one another out, MAKE SURE you separate them. If they appear to be doing well, I would still watch them as you would any species you keep. It’s not like I’m talking about a few chameleons that I’ve had or hatched. My trio all grew to reasonable sizes and the male was never much larger than the females during this time. Once the male and females reached sexual maturity, they bred and all females had a 100 percent hatchability and clutches ranged from 50 to 60 eggs each. Of course, once the females became pregnant, they were separated. From that point on they were no longer together except for breeding. It is not realistic to house all baby chameleons together as a grower with limited space. Babies and juveniles are kept in small groups to accommodate large collections. Everyone here is entitled to their own opinion on this subject. Keeping them separate is definitely a way that works. But to think that other ways won’t work based on your experience is a bit naive. The only problem I see on this forum is that people get a lot of book advice from people who really don’t have the experience behind it. I’m specifically talking about veiled chameleons. I do not recommend what I am saying for other species. Especially NOT Panthers. New pet owners may be less aware of potential signs of problems when raising or keeping animals together. I have worked with thousands of baby veiled chameleons with ease and have had little to no problems with them.

Anyone with extensive and direct experience please jump in and share your experiences with others, not people who have a few chameleons that have heard this or that.

-Mike