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Table of Contents
Do you need a special mitre box for coving?
Preparation of the Material. A tenon saw with its fine teeth is ideal for cutting coving, creating a neat and precise cut. However, for large types of coving (e.g. 280mm (11inch) x 223mm (8.75inch)) an adjustable mitre box should be used and a deep bladed tenon saw may also be required.
Are there different size mitre boxes?
There are two sizes available: a 150mm (6″) and a 230mm (9″) version. They are not suitable for cutting mitres on other types of workpiece. For skirting larger than 230mm (9″) or smaller than 150mm (6″) a different type of mitre box will be required such as a multipurpose mitre box.
Is ceiling coving old fashioned?
Old fashioned coving creates a curve between the top of the wall and the ceiling, and is usually painted white, to create an approximate mirror image of the skirting board at the other end of the wall. Vintage chic is the reason why retro-fitting this type of coving has become so popular, even in modern homes.
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Coves come in many forms and are designed to create an enhanced visual appearance where the wall of the room makes contact with the ceiling. An old-fashioned coving creates a curve between the top of the wall and the ceiling and is usually painted white to create an approximate mirror image of the baseboard at the far end of the wall. Vintage chic is why retrofitting this type of coving has become so popular in modern homes as well. However, there is more to vaulted ceilings than a nostalgic look.
The classic look.
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A vertical wall meeting a horizontal ceiling should be easy to decorate. However, it can take a lot of care to get a seamless line between the two main structural elements of a room. Wallpaper must be cut at an exact 90 degree angle to achieve a perfect bond at the top. Likewise, painted walls need to be skilfully cut in order to get a clean line. If your ceiling doesn’t meet the wall at an exactly right angle, the problem is more difficult to solve. One way to do this is to visually break the connection by inserting a new element. This can be achieved with a fillet. For the classic look, paint or wallpaper your walls, then add white coving to match the color of your ceiling.
Seamless fuller.
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However, not all fillets have to be white. For an alternative to the classic look, add a fillet and paint the top and fillet sections the same color. Give your walls under the arched area a treatment that’s in a complementary tone. The addition of a tall picture rail really adds to the impact of this seamless design.
Ornate Bay.
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The coving isn’t just about disguising the junction between the wall and ceiling and hiding imperfections where the building has settled over time. Vaulted ceilings can be much more of a feature in a room. Decorative coving looks great in a traditionally styled bedroom, especially one that already has a high ceiling. Decorated coving can define a room’s decor and other design options, such as B. curtains supplement.
Coving with furniture.
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If the space you’re updating with coves has built-in furniture, incorporate that into the look. As mentioned, coves create a new way of connecting the wall to the ceiling. It can also connect tall cabinets to the ceiling. Bookshelves, built-in closets, and even window moldings can all be given a more integrated look in a room by installing a vaulted ceiling at a height that matches the furniture.
picture rails.
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Picture rails are not necessary for a hollow ceiling, but they contribute to the effect. They define where the vaulted ceiling ends and where the wall begins. And while they often don’t serve their intended purpose, picture ledges are the ideal way to hang pictures around the room, especially if you want to change the arrangement and number of pictures from time to time.
accent coving.
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If your room already has a dominant color scheme, covings can set their own accent. If your room has walls and ceiling in coordinating tones, use coving to add a new accent. For example, green walls and ceilings look great with white or brown coving.
Image sources: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10.
How do you use a cove mitre tool?
If you are cutting a right-hand internal mitre then you should position the cove mitre so that its right-hand face is at the far right end of the coving to minimise the waste. The cove mitre should rest across the coving with either the plastic lip or the notches holding it in place on the wall edge of the coving.
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In order to accurately miter the corners of your haunches and fit them to the space, you’ll need a few other tools in addition to your haunch miter.
Other tools needed
The other tools you will need are a pencil, tape measure, fine-tooth saw (such as a tenon saw), sponge, bucket (a second bucket may be required), hammer, board pins, wire stripper, utility knife and fine sand paper and masking glue.
preparation
Step 1 – Cut Template Use the fine tooth saw to cut out a 150mm (6″) section of the coving to be used as a template.
Step 2 – Mark the haunch position Position the template you just cut so that it sits where the ceiling meets the wall. Use a pencil to mark the top edge of the template on the ceiling and the bottom edge on the wall.
Repeat this step every 600mm (24″) along the wall. This serves as a guide and will help ensure the coving doesn’t sag when you attach it to the wall.
Step 3 – Prepare Wall and Ceiling If the walls and ceiling have recently been plastered, you will need to run a damp sponge over them to dampen the surface. This prevents them from drying out the strip adhesive too quickly and no longer adhering firmly.
Many people like to lightly score the surface of the walls with a utility knife where the coving will be glued. This gives the glue a better surface to stick to and keeps the strip in place more firmly.
Step 4 – Determine Cut Type There are four types of cuts that you can use a chamfer for: left and right inside miters and left and right outside mitres.
A right or left miter is taken from the view of the coves, as if looking into the room from the outside, not from the view of the wall!
How to cut an inside miter
To simplify the description and to avoid confusion, the following instructions are intended for right-handed people. A left-handed player would have to be on the other side of the bar.
Step 1 – Place the bar on a secure surface For sawing, place the bar on a secure surface that will support its full length, minus the scrap section to be cut. The ledge should be placed on its flat back with the concave (curved) side facing up and the wall edge of the ledge closest to you.
Step 2 – Position the haunch miter If you are cutting a left inside miter, you should position the haunch miter so its left side is at the left-most end of the haunches to minimize waste.
When cutting a right inside miter, you should position the haunch miter so its right side is at the extreme right end of the haunch to minimize waste.
The coving should rest over the coving with either the plastic lip or the notches holding it to the wall edge of the coving.
Step 3 – Miter Cut Holding the saw in your dominant hand, place the saw on the left side of the haunch miter surface to cut a left inside miter, or on the right side of the surface to cut a right miter, like so that the saw blade rests against the edge of the haunch miter.
When cutting an inside left miter, you may find it easier to stand on the other side of the chamfer to make the cut.
Tilt the saw so the saw blade lies flat on the angled face of the fuller. This can be more difficult with the curved plastic variety, as the faces are actually quite narrow edges, despite being angled in the same way. With your non-dominant hand, hold the fillet firmly by the fillet and cut the fillet with smooth, steady sawing motions.
Here’s how to secure the coving in place
Step 1 – Check the length of the cove After you have cut the first miter at the end of the cove, offer the cove to the wall. If the fillet is longer than the wall, shorten the fillet to about half the length of the wall – it’s easy to hide the joint later.
Step 2 – Mix Glue If using powdered molding glue, follow the instructions provided and mix it with the correct amount of water in one of the buckets. You can also get ready-made molding glue, but this can get more expensive if you have a lot of moldings to install – although it saves time.
Recap the ready-to-use adhesive after applying it to a section of the molding to prevent the remaining adhesive from curing prematurely.
Step 3 – Apply glue Use the spatula to generously apply the glue to the back of the strip.
Step 4 – Push on Press the strip onto the wall and ceiling. Use the pencil marks you made earlier with the template to make sure the bar isn’t hanging down.
Step 5 – Fasten with nails Use the hammer to drive a few small nails or pins into the wall just below the edge of the coving. These will hold the molding in place while the glue cures, allowing you to cut and trim the rest of the molding.
Step 6 – Remove Excess Adhesive Use the scraper to remove excess adhesive. Run a damp sponge along the two edges of the molding to smooth out any remaining adhesive.
Step 7 – Mark second length of batten Take a piece of batten with the miter cut for the other end of the first wall. Offer it up on the wall and mark where it will overlap the first cove piece already in place.
If it is too long to reach the wall, measure the distance from the unmitred end of the first piece of coving to the corner of the wall. Mark this distance along the wall edge of the second fillet piece from the miter you already cut.
Step 8 – Cut to Length Cut the second piece of fillet to length, removing the overlap as you go.
Before attaching the coving to the wall, you can slightly chamfer the cut edges with fine sandpaper in order to later achieve a better connection with putty or glue.
Step 9 – Attach second part Repeat steps 3-6 with the second part of the coving.
Step 10 – Measure Gap If you have a gap between your first two fillet pieces, measure the gap between them. Mark this measurement on a third piece of coving from a non-mitred end.
Step 11 – Cut Filling Section Cut this to length. This cut should be a 90 degree cut, not a miter. Use a trial square or combination square to ensure this is done accurately.
Step 12 – Secure the infill section Repeat steps 3-6 with the infill section of the fillet. Put a little glue on the ends of the piece before sliding it into place.
Step 13 – Fill and smooth gaps Use a scraper or your finger to fill in any gaps with glue or putty. Wipe the filled areas with a damp sponge to smooth the grout.
Step 14 – Apply coving to other walls Repeat steps 1-13 for each of the other walls. For information about making chamfers on the outside corners of a room, see Cutting Outside Miters with a chamfer. After all the covings are in place, allow the glue sufficient time to cure (see Gluing Instructions for approximate curing time).
Step 15 – Remove Nails Once the glue has dried, remove the nails from the walls and fill any holes with putty.
How wide is a miter box?
| Brand | Stanley |
|---|---|
| Blade Length | 14 Inches |
| Item Dimensions LxWxH | 9.84 x 3.94 x 1.18 inches |
| Power Source | Ac/dc |
| Number of Teeth | 60 |
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How do you cut internal and external corners for coving?
The easiest way to cut coving corners is with a mitre block. Alternatively, you can use a chop saw or a hacksaw. No matter what tool you use, remember: to mitre the left side of a corner, cut through left for inside and through right for outside.
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Installation is easy, but many beginners struggle with gouging. If you’ve never installed cornices before, this guide will teach you how to cut the perfect corners.
How to cut corners with a miter box
The easiest way to cut fillets is with a miter block or box. This tool is specially designed for this purpose and is very easy to use.
You can use the following method for Styrofoam moldings. However, plaster and PVC cornices might be more difficult to cut by hand.
what you will need
miter block
chop saw
sandpaper
tape measure
pencil
1. Cut coving inside corners
Most coving ranges come with pre-cut corners. However, these areas are usually more expensive.
If you want to minimize the cost of decorating your home, then you should opt for simple cornices and cut the corners yourself.
The secret to precise coving cutting is the right miter box.
Miter boxes come in different sizes; Buy one big enough to fit your cornices properly. When placed in the box, both edges must lie flat against the bottom and side of the box.
To cut inside corners, mark two lengths of molding left and right depending on where they will go on the wall.
Place the left rail in the miter box, ceiling edge down. The edge of the wall must be flush with the side of the block.
Insert the chop saw into the left 45 degree corner slot at the top of the box (the side farthest from you). Run the saw through the right 45 degree corner slot in the bottom of the box (the side of the box closest to you).
Cut off the left length and save for use.
Do the same for the right piece but use the opposite slots (top right and bottom left). Keep the right length.
2. Cut coving outside corners
To cut outside corners, left and right mark the strip lengths as before.
Place the left length in the miter block and cut at a 45 degree angle using the top slot on the right corner of the box and the bottom slot on the left as guides. Use the piece on the left.
Mirror the saw position to cut the right corner (top left, bottom right). Use the piece on the right.
To simplify the rest of the corners, you can draw a fillet miter template.
The video below shows you how to use a miter box:
3. Smooth the edges
When you’ve cut all the corners, use sandpaper to remove any burrs. If you don’t need to use the full length of a cornice, use the tape measure and pencil to mark the portion you need to cut out. Miter box also has a 90 degree guide that you can use to cut cornices to size.
You should also keep in mind that cornices are easier to install on flat ceilings and walls. When yours are done with Artex you may want to remove the texture first.
How to cut fillets without a miter box
The above method works well for polystyrene. If you want to mount PVC or stucco moldings, you will need to cut the corners with a miter saw.
Alternatively, you can also cut Styrofoam strips without a miter box after marking your own guidelines.
Cut crown molding corners with a miter saw
A miter saw, commonly referred to as a chop saw, is a power tool designed to cut wood at a 45 degree angle.
Swap out the blade for one suitable for styrofoam, plastic, or masonry, depending on what material your cornices are made of (polystyrene, PVC, or plaster).
Use the miter saw as instructed in the instruction manual to cut inside and outside corners.
Cut crown molding corners with a hacksaw
If you don’t have a miter saw and don’t want to buy a miter block, use a protractor and ruler to measure 45-degree angles on your styrofoam battens and cut them with a hacksaw.
Follow the same instructions as for miter box cutting to draw the angles and make the cuts.
Conclusion
The easiest way to cut fillets is with a miter block. Alternatively, you can use a miter saw or hacksaw.
No matter what tool you use, remember: To miter the left side of a corner, cut left for inside and through right for outside.
To miter the right side of a corner, cut through right for inside and left for outside.
What angle do you cut coving corners?
‘Place the left length in the miter block and cut at a 45º angle using as guides the top slot on the right corner of the box and the bottom slot on the left. Use the piece on the left side. ‘Mirror the saw position to cut the right corner (top left, bottom right). Use the piece on the right side.
Fantastic Mitre Box
Decorative covings are used in a room to add an elegant finish. It works to hide any uneven edges, cracks, or painting errors where the wall meets the ceiling. If you’re updating and figured out how to remove the popcorn ceiling, this is the perfect finishing touch.
Find out how to cut coving below and get a professional finish when you do it yourself.
How to cut fillets with a miter box
If you’ve learned how to plaster a ceiling or how to texture a ceiling, knowing how to cove is a wonderfully complementary skill, and the ability to cove cut is part of the process.
A miter box is the easiest way to make gouging cuts as it is specifically designed for this purpose. Make sure yours is big enough for the fillet to be cut.
You will need:
miter block
chop saw
pencil
tape measure
sandpaper
How to cut inner fillets
Some covings come with precut corners, but if you’re on a budget you can do the job yourself.
To cut your own inside corners, you’ll need to start at a corner and work your way around the room, measuring each piece individually as you go. For example, start on the left and work your way around the room to the right.
A miter joint is a joint made by cutting two parts to be joined, usually at a 45° angle, to form a corner, usually at a 90° angle. If you are starting from the left, start cutting your first left miter joint.
“When positioned in the miter box, the main part of the coving, which is hung on the left wall, should be on your right,” say the experts at Decorative Coving (opens in new tab). “And similarly, for the piece that will be hung on the right wall, the main part of the coves should be on your left.
“The fillet is always placed upside down in the miter box, meaning the edge that will be attached to the top should be on the bottom (horizontal section) of the miter box,” say the experts.
For the left part you will need to insert the miter saw into the left 45º corner slot (farthest from you) and put the saw through the right 45º corner slot.
Then do the same for the right piece but use opposite slots, top right and bottom left.
You can then use sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots.
How to cut outside fillet corners
The same goes for outside corners, except now you’re cutting with the opposite 45º guides.
“If you have outside corners in the room, you need to miter the two ends that connect here in the opposite direction to what you cut previously,” explains Nick Cryer of Berkeley Place (opens in new tab).
“That often causes problems, as you not only have to remember to cut the angle correctly, but also to what point you are measuring to.
“The best way to remember this and get it right is to always measure the bottom edge of the cornice for outside angles and the top edge for inside angles.”
Crafting Cost (opens in new tab) says: “To cut outside corners, left and right mark the lengths of the fillet as before.
‘Place the left length in the miter block and cut at a 45º angle using the top slot on the right corner of the box and the bottom slot on the left as guides. Use the piece on the left.
‘Flip saw position to cut right corner (top left, bottom right). Use the piece on the right.’
At what angle do you cut covings?
Cut the fillets at a 45º angle. “Of course, this assumes your walls are square,” says Lucy Searle, global editor of Homes & Gardens. “If it doesn’t, you need to measure the angle, cut it in two, and use a miter saw to cut the right angles.”
How do you cut edges on covings?
You will need a miter box and a wood saw to cut edges at fillets.
“Use a miter box to cut an exact angle at the end of the first section. This creates the 45º angles you need for the fillet pieces to connect in the corners,” explains Nick Cryer.
What angle do you cut coving corners?
‘Place the left length in the miter block and cut at a 45º angle using as guides the top slot on the right corner of the box and the bottom slot on the left. Use the piece on the left side. ‘Mirror the saw position to cut the right corner (top left, bottom right). Use the piece on the right side.
Fantastic Mitre Box
Decorative covings are used in a room to add an elegant finish. It works to hide any uneven edges, cracks, or painting errors where the wall meets the ceiling. If you’re updating and figured out how to remove the popcorn ceiling, this is the perfect finishing touch.
Find out how to cut coving below and get a professional finish when you do it yourself.
How to cut fillets with a miter box
If you’ve learned how to plaster a ceiling or how to texture a ceiling, knowing how to cove is a wonderfully complementary skill, and the ability to cove cut is part of the process.
A miter box is the easiest way to make gouging cuts as it is specifically designed for this purpose. Make sure yours is big enough for the fillet to be cut.
You will need:
miter block
chop saw
pencil
tape measure
sandpaper
How to cut inner fillets
Some covings come with precut corners, but if you’re on a budget you can do the job yourself.
To cut your own inside corners, you’ll need to start at a corner and work your way around the room, measuring each piece individually as you go. For example, start on the left and work your way around the room to the right.
A miter joint is a joint made by cutting two parts to be joined, usually at a 45° angle, to form a corner, usually at a 90° angle. If you are starting from the left, start cutting your first left miter joint.
“When positioned in the miter box, the main part of the coving, which is hung on the left wall, should be on your right,” say the experts at Decorative Coving (opens in new tab). “And similarly, for the piece that will be hung on the right wall, the main part of the coves should be on your left.
“The fillet is always placed upside down in the miter box, meaning the edge that will be attached to the top should be on the bottom (horizontal section) of the miter box,” say the experts.
For the left part you will need to insert the miter saw into the left 45º corner slot (farthest from you) and put the saw through the right 45º corner slot.
Then do the same for the right piece but use opposite slots, top right and bottom left.
You can then use sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots.
How to cut outside fillet corners
The same goes for outside corners, except now you’re cutting with the opposite 45º guides.
“If you have outside corners in the room, you need to miter the two ends that connect here in the opposite direction to what you cut previously,” explains Nick Cryer of Berkeley Place (opens in new tab).
“That often causes problems, as you not only have to remember to cut the angle correctly, but also to what point you are measuring to.
“The best way to remember this and get it right is to always measure the bottom edge of the cornice for outside angles and the top edge for inside angles.”
Crafting Cost (opens in new tab) says: “To cut outside corners, left and right mark the lengths of the fillet as before.
‘Place the left length in the miter block and cut at a 45º angle using the top slot on the right corner of the box and the bottom slot on the left as guides. Use the piece on the left.
‘Flip saw position to cut right corner (top left, bottom right). Use the piece on the right.’
At what angle do you cut covings?
Cut the fillets at a 45º angle. “Of course, this assumes your walls are square,” says Lucy Searle, global editor of Homes & Gardens. “If it doesn’t, you need to measure the angle, cut it in two, and use a miter saw to cut the right angles.”
How do you cut edges on covings?
You will need a miter box and a wood saw to cut edges at fillets.
“Use a miter box to cut an exact angle at the end of the first section. This creates the 45º angles you need for the fillet pieces to connect in the corners,” explains Nick Cryer.
HOW TO CUT COVING Gypro Cove internal \u0026 external corner cutting video
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coving mitre box – Amazon.co.uk
FLAMEER Large Mitre Box Angle Saw Gue Sawing Miter Skirting Coving Wood · £10.99£10.99. Promotion Available.
Source: www.amazon.co.uk
Date Published: 1/20/2021
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How to use a mitre box to cut coving?
Miter boxes are tools used to make precise angle cuts when sawing. They provide a platform for easily cutting angles in wood, eliminating the hassle of measuring before each cut.
The miter box can save a lot of time if you regularly make both angle cuts and straight cuts as it keeps the saw blade or cutting material from moving.
In this article, we offer a complete step-by-step guide to cutting interior and exterior moldings with a miter box. The final section then provides instructions on how to join two lengths of batten together.
What are the different types of mitre box?
What are the different types of miter boxes?
There are numerous types of miter boxes, some for specialized craftsmen such as luthiers and some for DIYers who need a multi-purpose tool.
mini miter box
Mini miters are typically small and fitted with fine saw guides for intricate and delicate 45 degree and 90 degree saw cuts. Mini miter boxes often come with clamping posts to hold the work piece securely and firmly for clean and fine precision work. Mini miter boxes are usually made from either plastic or aluminum. The aluminum mini miter box generally has a longer life expectancy than a plastic alternative.
Mini miter boxes are often referred to as model maker miters because they are often used by model makers in conjunction with a razor saw to create intricate and delicate 45 degree and 90 degree cuts.
Miter box for guitar fret
Guitar fret miter box is specially designed for cutting the fret grooves on a guitar. The saw is placed between rollers to allow a very smooth and accurate cut.
To set the depth of cut, place the saw blade between the depth guide with the back of the saw resting on top of the depth guide. Turn the height adjustment screws to obtain the desired depth of cut. The guitar fret miter box can be screwed to a workbench using the mounting holes provided to ensure a firm and stable stand.
Adjustable miter box
Adjustable miter box allows different sizes of workpieces to be securely held because the walls of the miter box can be adjusted to the size of the workpiece. The side walls can be moved apart and locked in place for workpieces of different widths. Coving comes in different sizes and designs. A typical adjustable miter box can accommodate a range of moldings up to 200mm (8 inches) deep and 180mm (7 inches) high.
To adjust the miter box, loosen the finger nuts on either end of the miter box by turning them counterclockwise. Either slide the walls of the miter box further apart to widen the base or toward each other to narrow the base. Tighten the finger nuts by turning them clockwise to secure the panels in place.
Cove miter box (not adjustable)
There are plastic miter boxes designed exclusively for cutting 100mm (4″) and 127mm (5″) covings. The scarf has a curved base to support the scarf to prevent sagging and ensure a more accurate and cleaner 45 degree or 90 degree cut.
Miter box for baseboards
This miter box consists of a base plate and a top plate that can be clamped to hold a length of baseboard.
The skirting board miter box is specifically designed to accommodate a specific size of skirting board. Two sizes are available: a 150mm (6″) and a 230mm (9″) version. They are not suitable for cutting mitres on other types of workpieces. For skirting boards larger than 230mm (9″) or smaller than 150mm (6″), a different type of miter box is needed, e.g. B. a multi-purpose miter box.
The baseboard is placed between the base and cover rails and clamped with the knurled screws. There are two strips of Tufnol (a durable, smooth type of plastic) along the bottom and top edges of the plate, set at 45 degrees. These strips are designed to help guide the saw and ensure a precise 45 degree cut.
To keep the miter box stable and secure during use, there is a spike at each end (with one end of both the top and bottom boards protruding beyond the rest of the miter box). This allows the point to be clamped in a vise, securely holding the miter box during use.
With the tip in a vice for stability and the miter upright, a 45 degree cut can be made, trimming along the Tufnol surfaces.
Multipurpose miter box
A multi-purpose miter box is typically made from lightweight, high-impact ABS plastic that is durable and suitable for use in all conditions. Multipurpose miter box can be used on a range of workpieces including baseboards, baseboards, coving and general carpentry work where a precise and accurate miter joint is required. Most multi-purpose miter boxes come with two workpiece clamping posts and guide slots that allow for 22.5 degree, 45 degree, and 90 degree cutting angles.
The base of the miter box usually has pre-drilled holes for you to attach the tool to a workbench. Multi-Purpose Miter Box is ideal for cutting a range of workpieces such as skirting, coving, skirting, plastic pipe and more.
Adjustable miter box
The adjustable fuller was designed for fuller cutting only and is therefore not as suitable for other applications as a multi-purpose miter box. Metal stops are fitted into the base of the miter box and can be adjusted to allow the cassette to accommodate a variety of bar sizes. Covings come in a variety of sizes (both depth and height) and an adjustable coving miter box accommodates all covings up to 280mm (11″) above the ceiling and 223mm (8.75″) on the wall.
Tiler’s miter box
A tiler’s miter box is usually made of galvanized steel and is specially constructed with a shoulder running the length of one of the inside walls of the miter box. This shoulder provides a firm base for metal or plastic trim used to create a clean and aesthetically pleasing edge on tiles. The tile bar is placed at the shoulder to support the delicate tile bar and allow for a more accurate and precise cut without damaging the trim.
The zinc coating prevents the steel from rusting and makes for a very durable miter box, which is essential when using a saw to cut metal like a junior hacksaw.
Magic miter box
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