Level 3 Straight Razor? The 48 Correct Answer

The average man will shave thousands of times in his lifetime. When they are young, perhaps while watching a brother, father or grandfather shave, boys often look forward to the day when they too can shave like an adult. At first, growing up is fun, much like getting a driver’s license. But you’re an adult now, and the fun wears off fast. Like being sent on a milk run to the grocery store or stuck in traffic, shaving inevitably becomes a chore that adds another routine to an already hectic morning.

But does it matter how many blades your razor has? Does 6 or more blades mean a better shave compared to a single blade razor? The answer may surprise you. Razor blades, like shaving creams, come in a wide variety. Regular straight and double-edged safety razors are still sold, but not as widely marketed as their counterparts. Commercials never address why having more blades is better. These marketing campaigns usually state that a person with more blades gets a closer shave. For some, shaving is an art form: striving for the closest shave possible without irritation, razor burn, ingrown hairs and, more importantly, avoiding making your face look like it went through a meat grinder!

Why more blades?

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For a long time, the straightedge was the tried and tested tool for shaving. A single blade offered multiple angles for cutting through facial hair. Although primitive, the shave achieved was and remains one of the best a person can get. Just as important as a sharpened blade was the technique required to get a perfect shave with a straight edge. The goal of every shave is a clean, silky smooth face without looking like you’ve climbed through barbed wire or picked up a Sweeney Todd.

Gillette pioneered the double-edged disposable safety blade in 1901. She sold very well for nearly 20 years, thanks in part to a government contract to supply US troops during World War I. When the patent for it expired, many competitors began stocking the shelves with their own variants, while Gillette slowly conceded market share and profits. To counteract this, Gillette then introduced a 2-blade razor, continually changing or upgrading the razor blade as needed to stay ahead of the competition. The introduction of 2- and 3-blade razors required consumers to purchase replacement cartridges, which were of course sold by Gillette. With increased competition and new generations of blades, additional features such as grease strips, razor wear indicators, comfort edges and more were added.

Is there an advantage to more blades?

If 1 blade is good, then 2 or more should be even better, right? Not necessarily. In order to achieve a close shave, the razor blade must cut the hair beneath the skin’s surface. A single blade can achieve this by using a variety of angles to glide across the face, but a dual-blade razor achieves this by having a dull blade that hooks into the hair follicle and very slightly pulls it up, allowing the second blade can make the cut. With 3 blades, the first and second blades work the same as a 2-blade razor, but the third blade essentially does the cleaning job, making sure nothing is overlooked. As more and more blades are added, they essentially repeat the actions of the primary and secondary blades. Running the blades continuously across the face increases the likelihood of razor burn, skin irritation, nicks and, by far the worst, an ingrown hair.

Many dermatologists recommend sticking with a razor with one, two, or three blades. Nicks are more common on multi-blade razors because they press against the skin, essentially creating a slight hillock in front of the blade. More blades means less flexing or contouring of the blade to get over the mound, which inevitably leads to the need for an alum block or styptic pen.

How to get the perfect shave?

In an ideal world, facial hair would all be the same thickness. It would grow in the same direction, allowing for a quick but bloodless shave. However, hair grows in different directions and has different thicknesses and types. There are thin hair, thick hair, curly and straight hair, and bidirectional hair. The key to a successful shave is patience and preparation. It’s best to shave during or after your shower, but if time doesn’t permit, you can still achieve perfection.

Make sure warm water is gently splashed on the face. Water helps by softening the hair and also acts as an extra lubricant when used in conjunction with your shaving cream. When applying shaving cream, a little goes a long way; Apply a thin but even amount to allow the cream to foam fully. It is important to use short strokes with the razor and to rinse the razor thoroughly. By keeping the razor moist, it glides effortlessly over the skin. After shaving, applying aftershave will soothe the skin. Aftershave consists of antibacterial agents that help prevent clogged pores and infection. Aftershave also contains astringents that help clean the follicles and skin cells, removing dust and chemicals that make skin look dull while providing a pleasant, clean scent. Shaving every other day will minimize nicks and ingrown hairs, especially if you press down with a single, double or even triple bladed razor. Make sure the razor blade is replaced every 5 to 6 shaves or when the razor itself seems to pull more than it cuts. More blades doesn’t mean a better shave; fewer blades with the right planning and preparation.

Relation

All hair grows at a different rate — including hair on your face, under your arms, on your legs, and other parts of your body you may want to shave. While many believe that the more often you shave your body hair, the coarser it grows back, this is not true. Another myth is that more frequent shaving will keep razor burn or razor burn at bay. Proper shaving is the most important factor in preventing rashes, dryness and shaving discomfort. This makes sense once you understand the hair growth process. All of your hair grows from “pockets” in your skin called follicles. The part of your hair that you can actually see is made up of dead keratin cells. Hair growth takes place completely below the surface of the skin. Blood vessels surrounding the follicles supply the hair root. As hair grows longer, it pushes through the surface of your skin.

How often should you shave? There is no hard and fast rule for how often you need to shave. Decide for yourself whether you prefer clean-shaven skin, slightly ingrown stubble or a more natural look. You need to pay attention to how your hair grows back and how your skin feels after you shave. You probably don’t need to shave every day. Razors don’t just cut your hair, they take a layer of skin cells with them every time you run the blade over your skin. If you don’t want to achieve a completely hairless look, you can skip at least a day or two between shaving sessions to allow your skin to heal.

Shaving Tips Following best practices will give you a closer shave and it will last longer. It also prevents irritation and cuts and even reduces the risk of infection. Don’t share a razor Even though your razor may appear to glide across your skin, it actually leaves tiny cuts on your skin’s surface and picks up bacteria. If you use someone else’s razor, you’re sharing their bacteria, and maybe even their blood, to scrape your own skin. This increases the risk of infection. Moisturize your skin Use shaving gel, shaving cream or at least moisten your skin with warm water before shaving. This helps the razor work better and also reduces irritation caused by dragging a sharp blade across dry skin. Exfoliating Before Shaving You can do this with an exfoliating product like a skin scrub, or simply with a washcloth or loofah. Removing dead skin cells before shaving gives you a more even surface and allows you to shave closer to the actual root of your hair follicle. Do not shave over wounds, cuts, sores, or rashes Shaving over skin that is compromised in any way can prolong healing. It can also introduce bacteria to the area, leading to infection. Shave in the direction of hair growth Your first few shaves should go “with the grain,” or in the direction your hair moves when it’s naturally flat against your skin. This reduces disruption and irritation to your epidermis. You can re-treat your shaved skin with cross-grain and against-grain strokes to eliminate stray hair growth. Replace your razor often How often you replace your razor depends on the shaving tools you use and how well you take care of them. Any razor blade that appears to be rusting or feels dull against your skin should be discarded immediately. A disposable razor can last 5 to 10 shaves. A safety razor needs to be replaced about every week.

How to shave your face When removing hair from your face, wash your face with warm water before applying shaving cream. Shave your face slowly and in the direction of hair growth. Pay special attention to your jaw and neck, as these areas can be more prone to nicks and cuts.

How to Shave Your Legs Before you shave your legs, clean the area with a washcloth or loofah to exfoliate. Then lather your legs with a shaving gel or shaving cream. Shave your legs one long stroke at a time, working with the grain of your hair. When you’re done, rinse off any excess shaving cream and pat your legs dry. Consider applying a moisturizer like aloe vera or witch hazel if you experience irritation from shaving your legs.

How to Shave Your Pubic Area Shaving your pubic area should be done with extra care as the skin around your genitals can be more sensitive than other areas. People who shave their pubic hair are 80 percent more likely to experience itching as a side effect, according to a study. Before shaving your pubic area, spend 5 to 10 minutes in a warm shower. This softens the hair and makes it easier to shave. Shave the strand of your hair while keeping it taut. After shaving, be sure to wash off excess soap or shaving cream to avoid irritation.

How to Shave Your Armpits The skin under your armpits is another sensitive area, so it’s important to shave gently and slowly. Spend some time in a warm shower and wash skin thoroughly before shaving. Hold skin taut and shave in the direction of hair growth.

How to Treat Razor Burn If you’ve already shaved and are suffering from razor burn, you have several treatment options. Wear loose-fitting clothing that won’t compress or irritate your skin while you wait for the itching or burning sensation to subside. Consider applying a natural, fragrance-free, and dye-free moisturizer like aloe vera or coconut oil to help relieve dryness and razor burn. A topical hydrocortisone cream can also be used to reduce inflammation.

The world of razor sharpening can be as narrow and methodical or wide and wonderful as you choose. Some people dip their toes in water and sharpen their razors a few times a year. Others dive right in and start collecting, restoring, and repairing blades. Whatever your goal, we’re here to make it easy for you.

This guide will go over each device you want and why you want it. There’s no need to go all out, many people just start with a few rocks and a truing stone and later decide how far they want to go. Read, sort your gear, then visit our How to Hone Your Straight Razor blog to learn the techniques.

Need to have

If you’re just starting out in sharpening your own blade, you’ll need some gear. A polishing stone such as a 12,000 grit (extremely smooth) is just as important as a stone holder and dressing stone. The holder makes honing much, much easier and the dressing stone is not optional. Repeated use of the stone without one will cause it to wear unevenly, which will mess up your razor over time. This kit is great for razors on a budget but I would consider adding 8k and possibly 5k to make your life easier.

Good to have

Each complete kit should contain an 8,000 brick, as well as a 3,000, 4,000, or 5,000 brick. With it you can sharpen any straight razor that is still in cutting shape. If you want to take it a step further, go for a rougher stone like 1,000 for those pesky repairs and dull edges you might encounter. A strop and block of chromium oxide makes your life easier and is worth its weight in gold for the time you save deburring razors on a standard strop.

For the collector

Now we’re getting serious. You’re clearly the kind of person who takes on projects and needs every piece of gear for every eventuality. In addition to the full set of stones detailed above, you should also grab a 400 for extreme repairs or bevel settings. A diamond dressing plate is also essential as it keeps your stones flatter than regular dressing stones and works around 20x faster. Combine with a grit-cleaning Nagura to keep your stones silky smooth. Finally, you should consider treating yourself to a fancy sink bridge. This turns your kitchen sink into your honstation, the most convenient blade sharpening facility we know of.

the groats

400 Grit – This stone is hardcore. It eats up steel so quickly it makes serious repairs and bevel settings a dream. Most straight razors will never need to see this stone, but it’s ideal for desperate situations like removing heavy shavings, especially from ultra-hard razors like those made by Portland Razor Co. or Thiers Issard.

1000 & 2000 Grit – These grits are great for starting a dull edge and for minor repairs. The texture is rough enough to cut steel quickly, but smooth enough to leave a razor edge that can be easily polished on finer stones. While not everyone needs one, they’re great for collectors and people restoring old blades. Both grits work well, but softer coarse grits should be avoided as they will need to be flattened more often.

3000, 4000 and 5000 grit – This is where most honing starts. If your blade pulls but still cuts, that area is about as rough as you need to go. It cuts steel well but is far less aggressive than the coarser stones mentioned above. As a result, the stone gets the job done without grinding away excess steel and shortening the life of your blade.

8,000 Grit – This stone is essentially an intermediate step, as jumping straight from 5,000 to 12,000 gives poor results. Much like using progressive grit sandpaper requires less work to achieve a good polish, the 8,000 grit polishes away scratches from rougher stones and makes polishing your blade on finer stones an absolute breeze. If your blade is in good condition, this is a good stone to start with.

10,000 & 12,000 Grit – This is the stone that will bring you true shaving nirvana. An edge sanded properly to this grit will sing through the hair leaving only shine. The stone is incredibly hard and cuts quite slowly, so it’s best to start with a rougher stone. Some people will jump straight to that last stone, but these people usually need to sharpen their edge more often.

Some people prefer 10,000, some prefer 12,000. You say potato, I say potato. The argument is that 10.000 is a bit more robust and therefore ideal for thicker beards, while others say that 12.00 shaves smoother. I say go with your gut. I like 12,000.

Equipment

Stone Holder – If you sharpen things, you need this. You can slide your stone in all directions or hold it firmly in place while sharpening to make the whole experience happy and safe. The screws at the end allow the stand to be adjusted, making it suitable for most stone sizes.

A flushing bridge is a serious improvement over the standard stone holder, allowing for a simple water source and easy cleaning. It adjusts to fit most sink sizes, and the handles adjust to hold any stone size.

Dressing Stone – When sharpening, it is important to have flat stones. It is an absolute must when honing razors. Straightening stones are hard and coarse, making them easy and quick to flatten your whetstones without damaging the surface of smoother stones. An essential part of any razor sharpening kit.

If you want to step up your stone care, get an Atoma Diamond Plate. Over time, regular dressing stones can wear out or warp slightly. This guy will never have those problems. The stainless steel plate stays perfectly flat forever and the replaceable diamond surface wears out much slower than a regular dressing stone. The diamond grit tears through shaky rocks and flattens them like a pancake. When it wears out, you can simply peel off the diamond plate and stick a new one with the built-in adhesive. This smoothing plate can make your stones a little rough, so take a Nagura stone to smooth them out afterwards.

Nagura Stone – Normally, whetstones should be flattened each time you sharpen your razor. Using a harder stone means you can dress it less often, but it still builds up steel that can clog the stone’s grit and prevent it from working properly. Nagura stones are smoother stones that work like an eraser, removing accumulated steel and smoothing the stone’s surface. They are also great for smoothing your stone after flattening your stones with a rough Atoma diamond plate, but a Nagura should never be used in place of a dressing stone.

Strop – A classic flexible strop is a piece of equipment you should already have if you own a straight razor. It helps you keep your blade sharp for months, so you can avoid frequent honing. After honing, it’s important to deburr the blade by honing, but it may also be necessary to hone between stones, especially after rougher ones like 1000 grit.

Paddle Strop – A paddle strop is a great alternative to a flexible strop if you are on a budget. It’s also a great tool for the avid sharpener. The smooth leather side provides a great work surface that can get a bit messy if there’s still sand or water on your stone, but it’s really all about the rougher suede side. Rub the suede with chrome oxide paste every few times and your edges will be smoother than ever! You can use it to deburr your blade after honing or between stones. You will find that it works more effectively during the sharpening process than many traditional strops.

Chromium Oxide – How to take your cuddles to the next level. It is a fine polishing paste sometimes referred to as jeweler’s rouge. It helps loosen the tiny burr fragments left behind by honing and shaving, leaving razor and knife edges with a silky smooth finish. In addition, it can add a beautiful mirror finish to your edge.

Simply dye the suede or canvas side of your strop with this mixture and voila, you’re good to go. We use Koyo Compound for every strop in our shops.

So there you have it. With the equipment listed here, a skilled sharpener could sharpen just about any blade on the planet. If you plan to do it yourself, make sure you have a razor to experiment with, especially if you plan to make repairs. My Dovo Classic eventually became my practice razor after I upgraded and it helped to practice with a good quality razor capable of taking a wicked sharpness. Don’t skimp on the steel quality as you will be endlessly frustrated with cheap razors.

Read our Razor Honing Technique blog to learn more and don’t hesitate to contact us or visit us in store if you have any questions!

View our full range of sharpening and honing equipment here

We’ve spent four weeks shaving every day with some of the sharpest blades known to man and we’ve selected the Feather – Artist Club SS as the best straight razor. With a clever injection-style blade loading system and an easy-to-clean design, this razor from Feather is lightweight but carefully balanced. Barbers and shaving enthusiasts alike love the sharpness of Feather’s durable blades, with an average lifespan of 10-20 shaves per blade. The Parker – SRX is our runner-up.

Table of Contents

Why a razor?

There are a few differences between shaving with a straight razor and a safety razor (the latter category basically includes any razor that’s T-shaped).

The biggest difference is the lack of a safety bar or “guard” between you and the blade to guide you to a “correct” shaving angle. A razor only gives you the bare edge. The wedge shape of a razor can still guide you into a good angle for an efficient shave, but it doesn’t force you into an angle like safety designs do.

That means shaving with a straight razor takes more skill, but it also means you can cut through stubble that would clog a safety razor. Additionally, without a guard, you can see exactly where the edge is cutting, which is why straight razors are so much preferred by barbers who make precise “alignments” for hair edges.

It’s sometimes possible to find a safety razor that cuts at just the right angle for your facial hair growth pattern, but with a straight razor, only technique stands between you and a perfect shave. It takes some time to get a feel for this angle, but the rewards are very satisfying.

How to shave with a razor

The hardest part of shaving with a straight razor is getting your skin as flat as possible so you can get the edge of the blade right on your skin without nicks. The jawline is particularly difficult to shave with a razor, but you can stretch your skin so that the part to be shaved is either above or below the jawbone and lies flat.

There is some debate as to the “best” way to hold a straight razor. The handle can swing nearly 360 degrees around the blade, and some razors prefer to leave it sticking out straight, while others prefer to fold it to one side or the other to bring the balance closer to the blade. Some even shave both hands, switching hands when switching sides of the face. The options are dizzying, but most will quickly find a comfortable, natural grip in the dominant hand and adjust as needed for different parts of the face.

Essential Shaving Gear: Gentleman Jon – Alum Block Alum has been used for everything from water purification to printmaking, but it has a special place in the shaving cupboard for its ability to soothe irritated skin. You can also make your fingertips less slippery while shaving by rubbing them on the alum block. See price at Amazon.com

The angle of the blade to the skin is not fixed, as is the case with a safety razor. A shallower angle (with the blade’s spine, or “backbone,” closer to the face) will scrape your skin less hard, but a steeper angle (with the edge digging in more) may require getting under your nose and in the contours of your lips.

Some razors are known for audible feedback, often referred to as “ringing,” as the blade cuts through stubble. Thinly ground blades, such as those made in Germany since the late 19th century, are sometimes referred to as “singing” razors. All razors make a sound as they cut your stubble, and if you listen closely you can use that feedback to learn how the angle of the blade to the skin changes the way a razor cuts.

Every shaving system takes some getting used to. Trying out a razor can easily result in small nicks and redness. Over time your technique will improve and your skin will get used to the closer shave; It’s not something you should pick up for the first time on the day of your wedding or a big interview.

Shaving with a straight razor also takes longer than shaving with a safety razor (how long it takes depends on your skill and nerves of steel).

However, an alum block (to soothe minor irritation) and a styptic pen (to stop bleeding) is all you really need to get through the adjustment period. You can certainly injure yourself with a straightedge, but the sharp blade calls for careful behavior. You are more likely to cut yourself with a modern disposable razor if you shave carelessly or rashly.

Many will recommend that you first use a razor on just your cheeks, and then use the technique of carefully scarring and skin stretching with a safety razor on your jawline, neck and lips until you gain confidence.

An option for beginners: Feather – Pro Guard Blades Feather’s Pro Guard blades are a bit like training wheels: you’ll be excited to switch to better blades, but you might learn to appreciate them at first. See price at Amazon.com

If you enjoy learning with a straight blade but are unsure of how steady your hand is, there is an option that will get you almost there with less risk. Our top pick, the Feather Artist Club SS Razor, gives you the option of using a “Pro Guard” blade that reduces nicks and accidental cuts.

There are dozens of good how-to videos on Youtube; this one by Lynn Abrams (founder of Straight Razor Designs and Straight Razor Place) is one of the most comprehensive, but this video covers more skin stretching for faces that aren’t as ideally shaped as Lynn’s.

The razor maintenance problem

The biggest obstacle to success when starting out with a traditional straight razor is maintenance. Any straight razor will almost certainly be sharper than the sharpest kitchen knife you’ve ever used, but to achieve a close, irritation-free shave, the edge has to be perfect and stay that way.

The stakes are high here: you’re not cutting sausages for Instagram pics, you’re shaving hair from some of the most sensitive areas of your body.

The cross-sectional shape of a razor is actually a built-in honing aid, so sharpening or “honing” a razor is less a test of a steady hand and more of a practiced understanding of what imperfections need to be honed. We won’t cover every skill, but here are some great resources:

Michael Leen has a good overview of the basics including some videos and animations.

The Shave Library wiki has a more extensive collection of information drawn from discussions by enthusiasts.

This page is a collection of Lynn Abrams’ famous contributions to his “Pyramid” methodology for sharpening razors.

Or look at the ‘Unicot’ honing method as described by the editors of Couticle.be

These articles refer to high-end waterstones designed for someone sharpening a shop full of woodworking tools. However, sharpening equipment to maintain a razor doesn’t have to be prohibitively expensive. A set of ultra-fine sharpening sheets glued to a piece of flat glass can replace both the Norton 4k/8k “only sharpening stone you need” combination stone and an ultra-fine sharpening stone such as the legendary Escher or Couticle barber sharpening stones. (Sheets wear out quickly, though, so rocks are a worthwhile investment if you’re looking to build a collection.)

Even with a brand new razor, it is highly recommended that you send a razor to a professional “honing master” for sharpening. If you’re looking to learn how to improve your own equipment, a pro’s edge will give you something to compare your own evolving skills to.

There are many, many experts to choose from. Maggard Razors or The Perfect Edge are among the best known and are considered very reliable. Anthony Sculimbrene did a very interesting “on the spot” recording with Howard Schechter from The Perfect Edge on his Gear Geeks Live Podcast. If you want an idea of ​​what it takes to get a straight razor perfectly sharp, give it a listen.

Once you or a professional get a straight razor as sharp as possible, for a long time the edge can only be maintained with a leather strap. Cutting hair usually doesn’t dull the blade for long, but the micron-thin edge can become misaligned and must be carefully smoothed back into shape for a perfectly shaved shave. To do this, the blade is carefully pushed backwards over the firm, smooth leather of the strop.

A set of strops with ultra-fine abrasive pastes applied can also replace a set of finishing touches to occasionally groom an edge that starts off perfectly and needs no more than a little refinement.

Touch-ups like this shouldn’t be common, but different steels and different hairs wear out at different rates, so it’s difficult to establish a guideline. Once you acquire the equipment to touch up an edge yourself, it becomes easy to become more and more picky about how perfect your edges are and pull out the strops or finishing touches every month or so.

The disposable blade solution

If all the talk of maintenance has you feeling lost, confused, and ready to give up all hope of owning a straight razor, stay with us. There is an answer to your concern.

We considered testing some budget straight razors, but the reputation of so-called “ready-to-shave” bargain razors is pretty bad. Even $100 razors from old-fashioned brands like Böker and Dovo are often not sharp enough for a good shave out of the box, and there are even well-respected “honemeisters” who get disturbing reviews of “budget restoration” razors that come with fewer are shipped – than finished edges.

Rather than talk about products that may or may not come ready to use when purchased, we have chosen to cover a specific area of ​​the razor market that is a bit more beginner-friendly: the disposable razor.

Disposable blade razors like the Durham Duplex and Weck Sextoblade were invented around the turn of the 20th century for convenience, but the concept found a wider niche when evolving health regulations began prohibiting barbers from using the same blade on multiple clients.

The biggest benefit of a disposable blade is that you never have to sharpen it or worry about how sharp it might be if a professional were to do the maintenance. As long as you can get replacement blades for your disposable razor, every shave can be just as smooth as the last.

Best Blades: Feder – Artist Club Pro Blades Designed for razors like our top pick, these blades last long enough to be economical, but you can always get a fresh blade if you feel like your shave is dragging. See price at Amazon.com

The other advantage of a disposable blade razor is the price: these are tools that are affordable for working barbers and beauty school students, while today’s good fixed blade razors are handcrafted for enthusiasts and collectors.

Despite the low initial cost compared to a handcrafted German razor, the cost of the refill blades should be considered. However, they are no more expensive than safety razor blades, and the cost of the more expensive disposable blades for a year would hardly get you a professional sharpening for an old-school blade.

There are a few other downsides to disposable blades. For one, the blades and accompanying razors have evolved to be perfect for shaping sideburns, fading, and other hair styling techniques. The blades are shorter and thinner, the frame isn’t as helpful for finding a gentle cutting angle, and the lighter weight might tempt a beginner to apply too much pressure. The fact that you don’t even have to think about blade maintenance offsets those concerns, but it’s something to be aware of.

How we selected finalists for testing

We set a budget of $80 per razor and that ended any debate about more expensive fixed blade razors. There are some “affordable” fixed blade razors that are said to be great if you know how to sharpen them, but they often don’t set you up for a comfortable shave. Likewise, antique razors can be found just about anywhere and are sometimes a bargain, but you never really know what you’re getting.

We polled enthusiasts around the web and local hairstylists, read tons of Youtube reviews and chose the top rated out of three popular and affordable disposable blade systems.

It might be a bit ironic that we didn’t include Dovo’s shavette system, as ‘shavette’ has basically become a generic term for disposable blade razors. We feel that the models we selected are better built and easier to use than the stamped aluminum and plastic “clamshell” blade holder that Dovo designed. (It’s a versatile system, though, so if you want to try different blade types, give it a try.)

Startup Irving Barber Company has a cool magnetic charging system that we checked out, but it’s not available from major retailers and tends to be expensive.

There are many, many other razors in the sub-$20 price range, but they all share similar characteristics. We chose Equinox because it is a best seller on Amazon with very good feedback. We expected the Parker to be better, but we wanted to see how much of a difference $15 makes.

Compare the best straight razors

Important features to consider

blade systems

Double Edge Blades: These razors use the same double edge or “DE” blades that have been popular on safety razors since King C. Gillette first started selling them in 1903. These blades are still widely available in drugstores, supermarkets and other places where you can find personal care products around the world.

You must break or cut these blades in half. Folding the blade until it locks in place is very easy and safe, especially when the blade comes in paper packaging. You can also buy the blades precut if you’ll never be using any in a safety razor or if you work in a hair salon and can’t spend time breaking blades between clients.

Mini Hair Shaper Blades: Personna sells their own version of another classic razor blade that has long since died out: the Schick Injector. These are single-sided blades already, no snapping required; Otherwise they are quite similar to the DE blades but a little thicker and more durable.

Feather Artist Club Blades: These are perhaps the best blades you can buy for any razor. An entire category of safety razors (like the RazoRock – Hawk) was invented so people who love these blades could get the sharpness and long-lasting performance in a less scary razor. The Feather “Artist Club” razor is what these blades were designed for. They are thicker and about 50% longer than a DE blade.

Blade Availability

This is not a factor in the shaver’s performance, but it might be important to you if you are buying a system with the intention of using it every day and do not always have a spare razor on hand.

You can buy blades for all of the systems we tested on Amazon and some specialty stores, but only the DE blades are widely available at local retailers.

DE blades are available from so many manufacturers that it can sometimes be a bit difficult to decide which one to buy. Sample packs like this are an easy way to experience the full range. Refinedshave.com offers methodical and rigorous reviews of DE blades to help you make your choice.

The “Artist Club” injection-loading razor system is made by Feather, but KAI Cutlery and Schick each make a line of blades to match the same razors. (However, they are not more economical or readily available.)

As we tested

We tested these daily shaving razors for four weeks. Our benchmark for shaving quality is a small collection of vintage straight razors from manufacturers like Böker, Wade, and Butcher, and a favorite from Electric Razor Co. While our tester typically uses a double-edged safety razor for everyday shaving to save time, he used his straight razors exclusively for a week before beginning testing with this lineup.

The biggest difference between the razors we tested and “big” fixed blade razors is how sharp they are. Some say their vintage straight razors or modern custom razors can get as sharp as a disposable blade, and that’s a real reward for the time put into developing the skills required. However, these disposable blades are always sharp, for less than 10 cents a shave.

If you shave against the grain of your facial hair to get as close as possible, the first shave with a new, extra-sharp blade with a machine-sharpened edge can leave a little more irritation than a razor carefully smoothed over leather would like. People say that traditional straight razors are “more forgiving,” partly for this reason. Some obsessive guys actually drag or run the extra-sharp blades across a cork to smooth the edge. It’s not required, but if you find the blades irritate your skin, you can try it.

Our tester likes to wear a mustache, but he shaved it off with the razors as part of the test to ensure every aspect of facial shaving was covered. The skin in these areas was definitely more sensitive and lots of little nicks were showing. (You’ll also get nicks if you shave your mustache off with a modern cartridge razor, but that was a little harder than we’d recommend.)

We haven’t tested razors for shaving legs, but we’ve been told that razors work very well and are much easier to use on legs than on your own face. (Just be careful around the knees and ankles.)

We rated the quality of these razors based on a few factors. One look at the fit and finish of the blades and handles tells you the care that went into a design; A shiny chrome finish is one thing, but a razor that folds easily and is easy to keep clean is the most important thing.

Materials were considered in the quality assessment; Of course, you can get nicer handles and finishes on an expensive heirloom quality custom razor or a high quality factory made razor. The straight razors we tested are comparable in quality to inexpensive models with bakelite handles from the turn of the century and, with good care, will last a lifetime.

Perhaps the most important test of a razor is this: how easy is it to load a blade and get a clean shave? We carefully noted all the difficulties and challenges in the daily use of the razors and gave them a design rating on a five-point scale.

The balance and weight of each razor were good; Even compared to the “gold standard” of a ⅝ inch mid-size antique straight razor, these new models were in control and able to get the job done.

Efficiency and blade loading are related but not identical measurements. Blade exposure is simply the distance the edge of the blade protrudes from the front of the “holder”. We measured this with calipers; Given the flexibility of the blade edges, there is a 0.1mm margin of error on these numbers.

Efficiency was a more qualitative assessment of how quickly and easily we could achieve a baby-bottom-smooth shave with a shaving system as a whole. A clean shave is achievable with any razor, but some will get you there with fewer passes or a gentler shaving angle.

Overall Winner: Feather – Artist Club SS

The Feather – Artist Club SS Razor is a really great piece of gear. Sleek curves and modern materials remind you that this is a razor born in the era of injection molding and wind tunnels, but the balance and smooth pivot point remind you of the long tradition of the folding razor.

design and quality

While not as shiny as the Parker’s or as traditional as the Monsieur Charles, the Feather – SS’s grip is a great design. However, you’ll be holding the metal blade holder’s shank more than the plastic handle, and this is also carefully molded to give you enough material to hold on to.

High Recommendation: Feather – Artist Club SS This razor has been carefully designed to meet the demands of barbershop perfection. It can be a great part of a weekend ritual or a way to add discipline and dexterity to your everyday routine. See price at Amazon.com

The texture on the Monsieur Charles’ stock is a little easier to hold with wet hands, but the Feather still has a grip that inspires more confidence than the sometimes slippery thin steel of the Parker and Equinox razors. If you find a razor to be slippery, shower razors claim that rubbing your fingers on an alum block can help you reach through even the dirtiest of water and shaving cream.

The hands-free blade injection and disposal is just another sign of the careful thought and attention that went into this design. The razor clamps the blade with a spring-loaded mechanism, but everything slides apart in one step for easy cleaning.

Blade loading isn’t perfect: Despite the tang-and-socket blade magazine’s positive alignment system (no doubt inspired by the Schick injector magazines of the past with their metal-tabbed “key”), the blades aren’t always perfectly aligned. However, if you push the blade holder up with the blade, the blade will always sit exactly where it needs to be.

An innovation to the actual shaving performance of this razor is the cross-section of the blade holder: instead of a wedge, there is a very slight “hump” on the side just in front of the blade, designed to help you stretch the skin and get a perfect angle of attack relative to your hair. The system isn’t like a safety razor, but it’s a relatively basic razor to shave with given how sharp the blades are.

The shaves from this razor are good and it’s easy to mow any leftover stubble against the grain with a second pass. In the mouth and chin area, however, this isn’t a razor that forgives mistakes. The Feather Professional blade sails through bumps or cuts into your skin, just like stubble. (As you can imagine, many razor enthusiasts grow mustaches and beards.)

Blade options, with some help for beginners

Feather’s Artist Club line includes the option of Pro Guard blades with a foil guard that softens the shave and helps prevent the possibility of pull cuts. Impairing the sharpness of the razor is like putting training wheels on a BMX bike, but the guard can help you relax and focus on learning how to shave with incredibly sharp blades.

A Beginner’s Option A Beginner’s Option: Feather – Pro Guard Blades The foil guards on these blades help tame Feather’s razor while you learn your technique. See price on Amazon

On the other side of the learning curve, Feather’s Professional Super blades are thicker and wider, allowing the edge to protrude 0.2mm further from the razor body, giving you a more aggressive shave for extra coarse hair or long stubble. Think of it like putting a turbocharger on a motorcycle: it’s kind of crazy, and probably nobody needs it, but it’s cool that they exist.

In the middle of the range are Feather’s Artist Club Professional and Professional Light blades. We tested the “Pro” blades. The light blades protrude 0.6mm less and are thinner, so they should give a smoother shave.

Other razors like the SS

Feather’s Artist Club line includes a few other razors, from the older plated brass RG model (harder to find now) to the polished steel DX. The RG and DX are more conventional “wedge” profiles that lack the “skin stretch hump” of the SS model, and the DX can be ordered with stabilized teak grips in place of the SS’s autoclave-safe plastic. For a premium choice, the SS has all the right features and is a bargain. Each design is also available in a non-folding “Kamisori” model if you’re not concerned with maintaining the balancing properties of western tradition or folding for safe storage.

Feather has a few direct competitors in the Asia-Pacific barbershop market: KAI Cutlery (owner of knife brands Shun, Kershaw, and Zero Tolerance) makes a “Captain” line that closely resembles Feather’s high-end razors and blades used that compatible; However, KAI does not have a permanent distributor for the razors or even the blades in the US.

Even rarer is the Schick – ProLine, which is considered a compatible razor at a bargain price. They’re hard to find, but sometimes turn up on eBay or international retail sites like Rakuten. Sam Seong and CJB also make budget razors that are compatible and a little easier to find on Ebay. Feather remains the best buy, but if you can find KAI Captain “mild” blades at a good price, they’re said to be very good in the Feather SS.

The central theses:

A razor is only as good as the sharpness of its edge, and the Feather – Artist Club SS is paired with a range of disposable blades that are sharper than you’ll ever find.

For those whose hands tremble at the thought of blades that sharp, there is a safety version of the blades to help build confidence.

The materials and construction of this razor are modern, but it fulfills the best aims of the razor tradition.

Hands-free loading and blade disposal are the icing on the cake, and it’s easy to see why so many professional barbers and stylists love this razor.

Best Double Edge Razor: Parker – SRX

Parker has been manufacturing safety razors in India since 1973 and began offering a line of straight edge razors in 2009 with the SR1. The Parker – SRX is the evolution of the SR1 design, built with a one-piece grip rather than two separate pieces riveted together; The razor blade holding area is identical across the Parker SR line.

Second Place: Parker – SRX This razor is highly polished and impeccably styled. If you already use a DE safety razor, this straight one will take your old dog blades and teach them scary new tricks. See price at Amazon.com

Parker has developed a solid, well-made tool for hairdressers and individuals who want to get the most out of the world’s most popular blade system. If you’re using a safety razor that uses double-edged blades, then this is a great way to try out the straight-edge shaving experience without putting money into blades you may not be using.

Die Klingenhalterung ist einfach, aber robust: Öffnen Sie den Clip, trennen Sie die beiden Hälften des Klingenhalters (es gibt einen Daumenausschnitt an der Spitze, um es einfacher zu machen) und platzieren Sie die V-förmigen Ausschnitte der Klinge gegen die beiden Stifte. Schieben Sie den Halter wieder zusammen und knallen Sie, alles ist fest. Fast überflüssig wirkt der über die Rückseite klappbare Verschlussclip.

Das Finish hier ist hochglanzpolierter Stahl mit einer klaren, scharfen, schwarz eingefärbten Gravur. Der Look ist retro, aber mit einem Hauch von Raffinesse. Es ist nicht ganz so glatt wie die nicht reflektierende Beschichtung und der geformte Griff von Feathers Rasiermesser, aber es hat etwas mehr Charakter.

Parkers Design für den „Schaft“ oder „Chol“ hinter der Klinge ist großartig. Obwohl dieser Rasierer dünner ist als Feather und Personna, ermutigt die Form Ihre Finger, genau am Gleichgewichtspunkt des Rasierers zu greifen. Wenn Sie ein Duschrasierer sind, werden Sie vielleicht die griffigen „Jimping“-Rippen auf dem Feather und dem Personna vermissen, aber wir waren mit diesem Design sehr zufrieden.

Die Klingenbelastung ist bei diesem Rasierer geringer als beim Feather oder Personna, aber mit etwas sorgfältiger Übung war es immer noch einfach, Wangen und Hals gründlich zu rasieren. Um den Mund und das Kinn herum bedeutete der etwas steilere Winkel beim Rasieren gegen den Strich ein paar mehr „weinerliche“ Schnitte als bei den Feather Artist Club-Klingen. Selbst nach einer soliden Woche der Rasur mit diesem Rasierer liefert er an den empfindlichsten Stellen des Gesichts nicht immer eine blutfreie Rasur. (Auf den Wangen ist es perfekt.)

Die Verfügbarkeit von zweischneidigen Klingen ist, wie oben im Artikel erwähnt, besser als bei jedem anderen Klingentyp. Fast überall auf der Welt, wo Rasierer und Rasierzubehör verkauft werden, gibt es zweischneidige Klingen, und die Liste der großen Marken ist zu lang, um darauf einzugehen.

Wir haben die fünf mitgelieferten Shark-Klingen von Parker ausprobiert und fanden sie gut, aber nicht gerade toll. Unser Tester bevorzugt die ultrascharfen Hi-Stainless-Klingen von Feather in seinem Rasierhobel, und sie funktionieren hier gut. Die im Lieferumfang des Equinox-Rasierers enthaltenen Derby-Klingen rangieren in Bezug auf die anfängliche Schärfe sogar noch niedriger, und wir mögen es nicht, wie sie ein wenig ziehen, anstatt mühelos zu schneiden.

Das einzige Problem, das wir mit Parkers Rasierer hatten, ist eine Folge des ansonsten fantastischen einteiligen Metallgriffs. Ohne Stifte zur Stabilisierung ist der Griff anfällig für eine Fehlausrichtung durch Biegen oder aggressives Drücken.

Der uns gelieferte Rasierer war ganz leicht schief, sodass der Klingenhalter beim Einklappen an einer Seite des Griffs rieb. Dieser Versatz war nicht gravierend genug, um Probleme zu verursachen, und ließ sich recht einfach durch Einstecken eines Tafelmessers beheben in den Griff und zwicken ihn zur Seite.

Die Fehlausrichtung hat der Qualität und dem Design des Rasiermessers geschadet, und wenn Ihnen das makellose Aussehen des einteiligen Griffs nicht so wichtig ist, dann haben die etwas älteren Griffdesigns aus genietetem Stahl, schwarzem oder weißem Kunststoff gewonnen habe diese Schwachstelle nicht.

The central theses:

Der Parker – SRX ist ein wunderschöner Rasierer. Gewicht und Griffigkeit balancieren die kleine Klinge perfekt für präzises Arbeiten aus.

Wenn Sie bereits zweischneidige Klingen in einem Sicherheitsrasierer verwenden, können Sie mit diesem Halter gelegentlich Rasiermesser-Rasierungen ausprobieren, ohne andere Klingen kaufen oder sich um die Wartung kümmern zu müssen.

Während dieser Rasierer eine schöne Politur hat, die ihn leicht sauber zu halten macht, ist der einteilige Griff überraschend weich und anfällig für Biegung.

Andere Finalisten, die wir getestet haben

Personna – MAGIE Monsieur Charles Razor

Der Rasierer von Monsieur Charles hat eine einzigartige Position als halb neu, halb alt; ein Teil Standard, ein Teil proprietär. Es werden Klingen benötigt, die zwar ungewöhnlich, aber der einst beliebten Schick Injector-Serie sehr ähnlich (aber nicht kompatibel mit ihr) sind. Dieser Rasierer wird für Stylisten verkauft, die in Salons Haare schneiden, aber er sieht einem antiken Rasiermesser ähnlicher aus und fühlt sich auch so an als alles andere in dieser Reihe. Schon der Name hat etwas Charmantes: Niemand scheint zu wissen, wer Mr. Charles ist, aber er muss ein interessanter Typ sein.

Die Klinge passt sicher auf die Haltestifte als Teil eines Halters im Stil eines Gleittabletts, was dieses System zu einem der besser gestalteten Systeme macht. Es besteht keine Chance, dass sich die Klinge verschiebt oder falsch geladen wird. Im Gegensatz zur Feder müssen Sie die Klinge jedoch aufheben und vorsichtig an ihren Platz fallen lassen.

Leider sind die Klingen nur halb so lang wie der Rasierer, was bedeutet, dass Sie oft Rasierschaum aufschöpfen, ohne sich zu rasieren. Die Klingen sind ansonsten sehr effizient; Es war einfach, selbst auf schweren Stoppeln eine glatte Rasur quer zur Faser zu erzielen.

Das Ranking dieses Rasierers war schwierig. Es ist ein effizientes Design, aber die halblange Klinge ist etwas unausstehlich. Wir haben die Effizienzklasse bei fünf belassen, weil es so gut schneidet, aber beachten Sie die Unbeholfenheit.

Die Klingen von Personna sind scharf und langlebig. Most report five to 10 shaves out of these blades before they start pulling instead of cutting, which is much better than the longevity of the thinner double-edge blades. Even ‘expensive’ double-edge blades are a better value, though, so long as you get more than a few shaves out of each edge.

Sadly, you’re also not going to find the blades anywhere but online or a few specialty shaving shops: even the beauty supply places we called hadn’t heard of them. We were mislead by online reviews into thinking that Schick injector blades would fit, but after a talk with Erik at West Coast Shaving, we got the facts sorted out.

Ironically, you can fit Personna’s Mini Hair Shaper blades into a vintage or reproduction Schick injector razor, but you can’t inject them into the safety razors without the “key” that’s been left off of Personna’s blade magazine. (You can even see the empty space left for it in the molded-plastic packaging.) The price is good compared to other Injector-system blades, so Injector collectors sometimes re-load these blades into old Schick magazines.

Equinox – Professional Straight Edge Razor

The Equinox straight razor is listed as Amazon’s best-seller in the category, but it’s for all intents and purposes a clone of Parker’s SR1 design. The handle is built differently and the edges aren’t as carefully sculpted to fit your fingers, but it holds a blade the same way and gives a very similar shave.

Don’t let the photoshopped images on Amazon fool you; the finish here is rough. If you want a razor that looks and feels good on close inspection, buy the Parker or Feather.

If you’re experimenting with a straight razor on a whim, then the cost of entry here is very low. You can probably find cheaper razors on eBay, but this is as cheap as you’ll get with Prime shipping, with a pack of 100 blades for the price. (We should note here that Derby blades are not very sharp, and you’ll probably prefer the shave from a sharper blade like Voskhod. Tastes vary, and the Derby blades are nearly free, but 100 blades is a commitment. There’s an even less-expensive bundle up on Amazon now with a pack of what must be even cheaper blades, but we didn’t try them.)

We noticed that if you close the Equinox all the way, the corner of the blade can touch the back of the handle that it rests in. On Parker’s razor, the retaining ‘cap’ stops the blade from folding that far into the handle; just another example of the little details you pay extra for.

The final result

Razors used to be a very personal, very meaningful part of daily routine. Like the chair you sit in or the car you drive, your razor says something about what your attitude and habits are. If a modern cartridge razor is comparable to a luxurious but boring high-tech SUV, then the straight razor is a race bike: built for precision handling and unmatched performance.

Like riding a motorcycle to work, buying a straight razor is going to be a dramatic change in routine for most people who choose to do so. It takes time and practice just to make it through a full-face shave without a spot or two of blood, but that practice builds a very real knowledge of your own face, hands and personal limitations.

If you try enough safety razors you might find one with a design that suits your face and hair type and can get you this caliber of close, smooth shave. The straight razor doesn’t set any limits or hold you back from perfection.

The Feather – Artist Club SS razor aims to give you all the tools you need to achieve that perfection with minimal worry over rust, blade degradation, or other distractions. Rinse and shake this razor dry, and slide in a new blade at the beginning of the week or any time your shave feels less than perfect.

Top Pick: Feather – Artist Club SS Japanese design and precision manufacturing can help you achieve the most meditative shave experience known to man. These blades are sharp, and that’s what shaving is all about. See Price at Amazon.com

If you’re already invested in traditional wet shaving with a safety razor, you’re probably already buying double-edge blades. The Parker SRX can give those blades a new sense of purpose, and maximizes your shaving budget for more new soap and aftershave.

Runner up: Parker – SRX A great-looking razor that does everything it needs to. This isn’t a pinnacle experience in shaving, but it’ll get you close enough to see over the top. See Price at Amazon.com

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People have often attributed this to the poor craftsmanship and inferior materials manufacturers use in making the blade. But what Roscioli et al. have found that you are shortening the life of your razor because of your shaving techniques and because of the microscopic roughness on the edges of the blade.

What does it include? The research simply revealed the culprit responsible for why razors don’t last after a few shaves. The first reason is shaving at an angle, which puts more stress on the razor. Couple this with the areas where the soft and hard parts of the steel meet, then chips will form. This then leads to dullness.

Therefore, when choosing a straight razor, it is necessary to look only for blades made of quality steel, such as: B. a Japanese stainless steel blade with a hardness of 61-65 HRC, similar to what you will find here at Naked Armor.

The only downside to stainless steel is that it takes more effort to grind than carbon steel. However, because it stays sharp longer, it doesn’t need frequent sharpening.

3. Choose a blade with a dutch point

A dutch-tipped razor blade is best for first-time users for safety reasons. It sports a rounded edge that protects you from nicks, cuts and other possible injuries while shaving. Therefore, its edge is a great tool for immersing yourself in a straight razor shaving experience.

In terms of practicality, the Dutch’s round tip is more forgiving of sudden changes in angle or direction, so there’s less chance of minor nicks and cuts.

4. Choose the right size blade

Also known as blade height, the size of a blade matters when using a straight razor. Of course how big the razor is, how much it will weigh can affect the total amount of it when you hold it in your hand. Razor heights range from 8/8 inch (which is the tallest) to 3/8 inch.

Those who sport heavier beards prefer larger sizes, with 3/8 sizes being compatible with mustache trimming. First off, a 5/8 or 6/8 blade is a perfect size for most people.

5. Get the right grind size

Manufacturers make razors in several different grinds depending on their intended use. In general, most shaving professionals recommend the hollow grind as the best overall grind for the average razor.

Hollow ground blades are the thinnest grind available, making them easier to use and maintain. A full wedge grind may be more appropriate for thicker and coarser beards as they are better suited to heavy use when shaving.

6. Consider a shaving kit instead of a straight razor

And while you’re at it, why not buy a straight razor shaving kit instead? The set contains not only a straight razor, but also the most important shaving products that you need for a good shave. It’s a great way to get the most bang for your buck.

These are merely guidelines to limit your choices. However, keep in mind that using a razor is not an overnight skill. Handling takes some getting used to. No one can master the handle you need once you are done buying a straight razor.

After their debut in 1680, straight razors became the primary method of guided shaving for at least two hundred decades, and remained widely used until the mid-20th century. Straight razor manufacture eventually fell behind that of their safety razor, which appeared in the late 19th century and also featured a disposable blade. Electric razors have also reduced their razor market share, particularly since the 1950s.

Since 2012, straight razor production has steadily increased as more people realize the benefits of shaving using this method… and it really makes sense. These razors are made to last and rarely need sharpening. Compare this to modern cartridge razors that last a week. A sharper blade is simply better. Three other less sharp blades are still inferior to a sharper blade. Most razor shaves last 2 days. Additionally, you wield a blade over skinless, reducing the likelihood of cuts, missed spots, and irritation. Dollar Shave Club has decent deals on men’s shavers.

While the science behind the results of a razor cut is important, we think it pales in comparison to the opportunity to truly relax and enjoy an age-old experience. In the course of 30 minutes, one can transform into a new person by being shaved with a razor by a yogi. We do NOT get enough time to think and live in the moment. As always, this was part of the magic behind grooming activities for both men and women. The moment you let go of the worries of the day, your mind expands and you begin to see clearly what lies ahead. A razor shave is a great way to achieve that moment.

Wondering what it takes to get started? We recommend that you visit your local hairstylist and be instructed by a professional. To get the full experience, find a hair salon that spoils the man! Frank’s old-school barber shop in Denver has you covered!

The Portland Razor Company’s top 5 reasons to shave with a straight razor

1: A clean shave is good for your skin.

Gently exfoliating, such as with a straight shave and using a shaving brush, can be great for skin health. The scrub removes the top layer of dead skin cells and encourages new cell growth, collagen production and improved blood circulation. Shaving with a razor and applying lather with a shaving brush are two great ways to add this kind of beneficial exfoliation to your shaving routine. The brush lifts hair and dirt from the skin while applying lather and moisture for the gentlest exfoliation. The razor removes dead cells, dirt and scum in one clean stroke, and your technique can be modified to allow for a more or less aggressive shave.

Shaving straight is cleaner than shaving with cartridge or electric razors and reduces the risk of common skin infections such as ingrown hairs, razor bumps and razor bumps. Safety bars, grease strips, multiple blades and motors are difficult to clean and can become clogged with hair, skin, soap and dirt. This can cause the blades to rust, become dull, and grow harmful bacteria that increase the risk of those infections mentioned above. A quality razor made from carbon steel and properly heat treated will take and hold a sharper edge than cheap stainless steel blades and can be cleaned between each pass, providing a sharper, cleaner, closer shave.

2: Straight shaving is good for your brain.

Learning new skills that use both hemispheres of your brain — digital photography or quilting, this study suggests — improves cognitive function, memory, and coordination. The catch is, you have to keep learning new skills to keep getting those benefits. You can get started with close shaving if you only know the basics of shaving and honing, but there are many learning opportunities in the world of close shaving. Learn to sharpen your razor, build the perfect lather, get your razor into top-notch shed. While we’re happy to do some of these things for you, we think you’ll enjoy doing them yourself once you’ve got your feet wet – why should we be the ones having all the fun?

Many use the clean shave as an opportunity to meditate, which has been shown to reduce stress and boost your immune system. People who practice this type of meditation in the morning claim that it sets them up for a more productive day. Even evening shavers benefit! Performing an analogous task, like meditating or shaving, an hour before bed — especially as part of a routine — rather than sitting in front of a glowing screen, makes falling asleep easier and improves sleep quality.

3: Straight shaving saves money.

A well-maintained razor should give you a lifetime of shaves and save you hundreds of dollars every year! Some savings are pretty obvious, like never buying refills again, signing up for a subscription, or never having to drive to the store to buy blades again. But shaving straight also saves you money in less obvious ways. It reduces the amount of waste you generate, which in turn lowers your waste disposal bill. Harder to measure – but more important – is the reduced pressure on landfills, which are expensive to build, fill and close; not to mention the environmental cleanup costs as a result of poorly built or improperly sealed landfills!

You can enjoy all of these savings even after you factor in start-up costs and recurring costs for sharpening services! The key to getting the most out of your straight razor is to take care of it: keep it dry, hone it properly and have it sharpened when necessary to reduce wear and prolong its useful life to make your savings even up extend into next year generation. Long-term costs can be further reduced by buying a good stone and learning to sharpen your razor yourself.

4: Razors are good for the environment.

Straight shaving is a zero-waste solution. There’s nothing to buy or throw away, it’s the best shaving method for the environment and an easy way to reduce your carbon footprint. Each year, 68 million American men throw away 2 billion disposable razors and generate 34 million cubic feet of hazardous, non-recyclable waste. Add to that over 250 million tons of new waste, 13% of which is plastic. In short: Switching to a clean shave is a sensible step for the environmentally conscious.

You can also improve the environmental impact of your other shaving and grooming products. We recommend responsibly sourced natural, sustainable products like those made by our friends at Craftsman Soap Co. From the Craftsman Soap Co. website:

“We use recyclable packaging, post-consumer recycled paper and soy ink, and have always made our products palm-free as it is notorious for destructive farming practices. Coconut oil, shea butter, and cocoa butter combine to create an alternative to palm oil that we believe creates a richer, fuller lather and a better bar.”

5: As a razor, you are in control.

The straight shave gives you complete control over your shaving experience. While most razors are made in one size, the razor is truly flexible. Sensitive skin? Curly hair? Kevlar growing out of your face? Your technique, angle and pressure can be adjusted for the ideal shave without having to change products or pay extra, and when you can take care of your own razor you can be sure it’s clean and sharp before every shave . A straight razor is a product that will treat you well if you treat it with respect and responsibility, and good care will extend its life and improve the quality of your shave for years to come.

Other sources cited:

“Municipal Solid Waste (MSW) in the United States: Facts and Figures.” EPA. Environmental Protection Agency, undated. Network. Dec 30, 2014.

Clarke, Arthur C. “Solid and Hazardous Waste.” Solid and hazardous waste. n.p., n.d. Network. Dec 30, 2014.

Compared to the old tools, the modern razor looks like a sophisticated piece of engineering. The earliest iteration of the straight razor probably dates from the late 16th century and has been used for traditional manual shaving for over two hundred years. Since then it has had its ups and downs in popularity and has become trendy again in recent years – as part of the deadly uprising against environmentally damaging and expensive plastic cartridge razors.

Early straight razors were basically about as sharp as anyone could get their hands on. Evidenced by cave drawings from the Stone Age and ancient archaeological excavations that brought to light artefacts from the Middle Ages and prehistoric times, the first shave started with mussel shells, shark teeth or pumice stones and even scraped facial hair. Later in ancient Egypt, copper razors were uncovered in ancient tombs.

It’s unclear if they cut their facial hair for aesthetic or pragmatic reasons; Some sources say the main purpose was to control bugs that would nest in their facial hair and cause a horrible itch and rash.

Centuries later, in ancient Rome, the early versions of the razor were also simple tools. They used a device called a novacila, which consisted of a block of iron with finger holes and a blade resembling brass knuckles.

Of the various types of straight razors, the straight razor has probably changed the least since its inception.

Part of its current appeal to wet shaving fans is nostalgia for a simpler time of shaving with traditional products, their simplicity and ritual – interestingly, it’s the lack of innovation that really creates the appeal of the modern razor.

Is the modern razor making a comeback?

According to a 2016 Outside Magazine essay, the straight razor scene in the 2012 James Bond film Skyfall led to a sudden and dramatic surge in straight razor sales around the world.

The essay quotes a Dovo Solingen executive who said the company sold fewer than 8,000 straight razors a year in the early 2000s and placed over 100,000 orders in 2016.

The razor is back, and it’s probably not going anywhere; More and more men are becoming interested in the traditional wet shave and many men are becoming razor users for this purpose.

What is a razor?

Modern straight razors are referred to as open razors, straight edge razors, or cut-throat razors, which are defined by their long exposed single blade that folds back into its handle.

For a long time it was a service, usually performed by a skilled barber – one of the oldest crafts. They were also called “Barbers Surgeons”. The local Barber Surgeon was an integral part of the community, responsible for men’s grooming, styling and dressing, as well as performing surgeries and dentistry. Because of their steady hands and experience, it was just evolutionarily intuitive to offer a razor shave.

Today, home razor use has seen a massive resurgence in wet shaving routines. Alone in front of the mirror, the morning shave has become a sacred part of the daily routine for many men, albeit a ritual, and the barbershop shave has become a luxurious premium treatment, like a day at the spa.

Why is it called a razor?

The name is apt: the blade is a long, straight edge and is the defining feature of the razor. It is the longest and most exposed blade available for shaving.

The early versions were a status symbol

In the late 1600s, in the early days of the modern version of the razor, they were a luxury item and a status symbol.

The silver steel sheen was a monumental aesthetic update, and around the same time manufacturers began making the handles from more beautiful materials – including ivory and tortoiseshell.

In some cases, small illustrations were etched into the blade, and it was even more common for a man’s initials to be engraved into the blade.

When was the earliest straight razor made?

Let’s start with a brief history… In 1680, a Briton named John Spencer was behind an operation that manufactured “Sheffield goods” in Sheffield, England. He was an industrialist and his company made several different steel products including clocks and cutlery and an early form of the straight razor.

As the straight razor evolved, the original Sheffield steel, with its distinctive deep luster finish, also known as ‘Sheffield silversteel’, remained the most sought-after material for a blade and is still used today by manufacturers such as Thiers Issard as a luxury razor brand Known for their custom scales and blades.

Generations later, Sheffield steel is still considered a superior quality and the absolute best material from which to make blades because of its durability and rust resistance, the downside because of its hardness that it can be difficult to sharpen with a honing and strop .

If you’re looking for a vintage or antique straight razor, the old Sheffield Steel wedge blades were marked with the words “Cast Steel” or “Warranted”. If you ever come across an antique straight razor and find these markings, then that razor was made in England in the late 17th or early 18th century.

More history of the razor

In 1740 another Briton named Benjamin Huntsman was making straight razors with decorated handles (scales). His blades were made of highly polished, hollow-ground steel, and he made other steel products as well. Hunstman was an innovator and developed this manufacturing process himself: pouring molten steel into molds he made and then shaping the metalware, sometimes even with intricate decorative handles inlaid with precious metals such as silver, other precious stones, and horn handles.

His process also allowed him to create blades with a hollow-ground blade profile, which is basically just a thinner edge of the blade than earlier wedge blades, which could be coarse.

Huntsman’s process was quickly adopted by the French and became the dominant mode of production.

At the end of the 19th century, straight razor manufacture shifted from manual to industrial, and straight razor manufacturers began mass production for the first time.

Why did we stop using straight razors?

By the late 1800s, the Kampfe brothers had made headway with their new safety razor, which offered an alternative to the straight razor. Your product would reduce the risk of cutting yourself without compromising the quality of the shave.

In 1904, King Camp Gillette patented the double-edged safety razor. He took the Kampfe brothers’ basic design and made a few modifications, and his new product was revolutionary for two reasons. First, like the Kampfe product, men could shave at home without fear of cutting themselves. But the blades were also disposable, meaning the user never had to visit a professional to have their blade honed and sharpened.

You could do it all yourself with these new safety razors or the double edge razor. Its rapid rise in popularity coincided with the razor’s decline in popularity.

The US military even issued double-edged safety razors and disposable blades to their soldiers during WWI, and that was sort of the nail in the coffin for the razor. For the soldiers, shaving was actually very important because they needed a clean-shaven face for their gas masks to be fully effective.

After the war, many American men owned their own safety razor and only had to buy the replaceable blades.

Safety razors became the dominant shaving method of the twentieth century. Safety razors basically killed straight razors.

Electric razors were launched in 1930 and Bic introduced disposable razors in 1974. Convenience became an American cultural priority, and in the decades that followed, straight razors eventually went completely out of fashion.

Isn’t it unsafe?

Jean-Jacques Perret invented a razor blade guard in 1762, and this initiated the transition away from relying solely on professional barbers for a shave, even though men were still largely insecure about their personal shaving skills.

Perret’s original blade guard was a wooden sleeve that slipped over most of the blade, exposing only the sharp edge. Its design made it impossible to cut off the entire ear, but did not prevent the routine nicks and cuts that only come with expertise and experience.

Are there different types of blades?

Cutthroat razors or the straight razor is made from three different types of steel:

carbon steel

Stainless steel

damascus steel

Compared to other metals available, a stainless steel blade is the best and most economical choice for a straight razor as it stays sharp and rust free for longer. High carbon steel is a good choice for beginners because it stays sharp longer and is easy to sharpen. For a more luxurious option, the original Sheffield silver steel – famed for its durability and rust resistance – is considered the highest quality steel, and that’s why the material is still used today, even after so many years.

What are the “scales” handles made of?

Most decorated handles today are made from durable woods such as poplar, orange beech, French oak, and sometimes other more exotic woods. There are many variations and even high quality resins. Traditionally, straight razor handles have been made from all sorts of other fascinating materials: bone, elephant ivory, tortoiseshell, a conch shell known as “mother of pearl,” and buffalo horn are among the common materials used to make handles.

In the late 21st century, poaching of elephants for their ivory became totally illegal and heavily regulated on grounds of cruelty to animals. Many elephant species were threatened with extinction. Today it is illegal to kill an elephant for its ivory virtually everywhere, but it is not illegal to sell or buy an ivory-handled straight razor made before 1989.

For many reasons, these natural materials are obsolete. But the aesthetic has endured, and today cutthroat razors are made from man-made or synthetic materials such as high-quality resins – for example, high-quality ivory resin, imitation tortoiseshell and imitation pearl handles.

The basic anatomy of a modern razor

The two main parts of a straight razor are the blade and the handle. The end of the blade that connects to the handle is called the tang and is connected by a pivot.

When not in use, the blade folds back into the handle.

The “tang” is a metal extension of the blade that bridges the blade and handle, and you grip it while shaving.

The tang is closest to the blade and is not the blade itself. So holding the razor here while you shave gives you more technical control as you shave.

Sometimes the tang has some small horizontal indentations and ridges for added texture to keep the razor from slipping in your fingers when wet. The divots and ridges are called “jimps”.

There are many brands that make straight razors and the product has a long history so there are of course variations, but both the tang and the jimps are consistent features across brands and times.

The manufacturing process of a straight razor

Step 1: Forging

The steel is melted and formed into the shape of a blade and before the metal has hardened they drill a hole towards the end of the blade (the fulcrum of the fulcrum if we get technical) where the blade will connect to the handle.

Step 2: Hardening and Tempering

Depending on the steel or type of metal, the blade is heated to a certain temperature before it cools down and reaches the optimal hardness. The cranking phase is basically the fine tuning; The blade is placed in hot oil to basically soften it a little, and this process can be lengthened to soften the blade even more. Blades are usually categorized as hard-tempered, medium-tempered, or soft-tempered.

Step 3: Loops

The manufacturer uses a grinding wheel to sharpen the blade. There are several types of approaches to sharpening, which basically just mean that the edge of the blade has different shapes. Early straight razors had wedge blades, which could be coarse, but the predominant shape became hollow-ground. Hollow ground blades are basically just a thinner razor blade. Hollow-ground blades are sharper than the wedge, allowing for a closer and more specific shave.

Step 4: Completion

The manufacturer applies a gloss that benefits durability and aesthetics. Some glosses are more expensive and of higher quality than others; the most expensive is the mirror finish. The Sheffield blades were known for their highly polished steel with a deep luster finish. In some cases, the appearance of the blades is further enhanced by processes such as gold panning, which give the blade a lustrous solid gold finish. Sometimes other metal platings with nickel or copper are also done, but this process is outdated because of its poor quality. these metals erode quickly.

Step 5: Sharpen

Sharpening occurs periodically. Unlike safety razors, which have an easily replaceable, disposable blade, straight razors are bought once and then need to be serviced. Sharpening is mostly a professional service. The blade is ground against the flat side of rotating round stones and then needs to be finished with a strop. It’s a whole process that’s a big reason the straight razor fell in popularity; It’s tedious and requires extra steps that other razors don’t have. But some people still do it all at home anyway.

Are straight razors really better?

Yes.

The quality of the shave is higher and the shave is extremely close. Because the blade is so exposed, you have full control over your shave. You can find the angle that works best for you and get as close or as far to your face as you want.

Men who use straight razors say the shave is closer, smoother than with electric razors or other cartridge systems, and is better for your skin. The multi-blade cartridge razors interact much more aggressively with your skin and leave razor bumps, but that’s not a problem with the straight razor.

Straight razors also cover more ground in a single stroke because the cutting edge is so much longer than, say, the cartridge razor, which generally has three or four blades in a cartridge – all very short.

You don’t have to rinse the razor with shaving soap as often during a shave. The shaving cream or shaving soap just collects on the blade, just wipe and carry on.

Razors, while a more expensive initial purchase, are actually a more economical option than most other razors because you never have to buy replacements for anything. There are of course other products that you need to buy with straight razors depending on how intricate the process you want your shave to be. Straight razors also have to be honed and sharpened, which comes at a price.

A nice straight razor can last for decades. Of course it needs maintenance, but if you find a straight razor you like, you can keep it for life. At about the time of its introduction, straight razors were generally family heirlooms, passed from father to son as growing-up gifts when it finally came time for a boy to shave.

Another important modern implication: by using razors, you don’t have to share in the ethical or aesthetic nightmare that comes with disposables. Landfills everywhere must be filled with countless disposable razors, all different colors, some sharp, some dull. It’s a terrible picture.

Which shaving products are essential for shaving with a straight razor?

If you want to hone and sharpen your razor yourself. You should start with the basic supplies:

shaving foam or shaving soap

A high quality shaving brush

A styptic pencil for nicks and cuts

A moisturizer for the after-shave routine

A strop or whetstone

sharpening paste or honing oil

Can I get a razor shave from a barber today?

The answer is maybe. In fact, many states in the US have banned barbers from shaving their clients with straight razors.

They cite health concerns about using the same blade over and over again, so they demand a razor with a disposable blade.

However, in Pennsylvania and Texas, straight razors are legal in barbershops and the tradition has been preserved. The practice is also legal throughout Turkey, Australia and New Zealand.

BornSharp’s Steve Worthington recently sent me an interesting link: Scruff Is In As Men Shave Less. I didn’t find it that interesting because it was about “scrub” but because of the number of people who shave. It got me wondering how many of “us” (who shave with some kind of “old school” kit) there are and how big the market could be for companies.

There are currently approximately 152 million adult males in the United States (according to Wikipedia). If we can trust the source of the data in the article, 94% or approximately 143 million men shave. Of these, 36% use an electric razor, meaning that around 91 million men shave manually.

Here it gets a little more difficult. How do we determine how many use a brush and how many use a double-edged (or single-edged or straight) razor? I’m willing to bet someone at P&G knows (or at least someone at The Art of Shaving subsidiary), but they won’t tell me. There are a few journals that might help (Amazon, Reportbuyer) but they’re too expensive for me to easily get hold of and I don’t know if they contain the actual data I’m looking for. So, can we make an “reasonable guess”? I think so. For discussion purposes, let’s assume that 5% of manual razors use a shaving brush. That would be about 4.5 million men. I’m sure those who don’t use a cartridge razor (i.e. DE, SE, straight) have an even lower percentage, say 1%. That would be around 900,000 men.

Let’s use the Wikipedia statistic that the male population growth is 0.7% (remember we’re only talking about the United States for now).

About 4.5 million men are allowed to use a shaving brush. If the typical shaving brush is $50, that’s $225 million. Let’s assume, perhaps more realistically, that most brushes are sold as part of a set (razor, brush, stand, maybe a small bowl and/or bar of shaving soap) and the average set retails for $75 but wholesales for $50 is available. That’s a profit potential of at least $100 million! Plus a growth of over 30,000 additional men per year… a potential annual market of $750,000 using the previous numbers.

Now our “estimate” of 900,000 men who don’t use cartridge razors. If the average DE razor costs about $50, that equates to $45 million, assuming a population growth of about 900 men per year. However, I suspect the actual rate is higher as more and more men rebel against the “razor blade wars”.

What do you think of these numbers?

Knife for removing body hair

Le Thiernois Sheffield Silversteel, highly polished, singing, 5/8″ blade, fully hollow ground, round nose razor with ornate 24k gold-inlaid blade, serrated shaft, double stabilizer and two-pronged blond horn scales Thiers IssardSheffield Silversteel, highly polished, singing, 5/ 8 inch full hollow ground blade, round nose razor with decorated 24k gold inlaid blade, serrated shaft, double stabilizer and dual prong blonde horn scales

A straight razor is a straight razor with a blade that folds into the handle.[1][2] They are also called open razors and cutthroat razors.[3][4][5] Predecessors of modern straight razors include bronze razors with cutting edges and solid handles, made by craftsmen from ancient Egypt during the New Kingdom (1569 – 1081 BC). Solid gold and copper razors were also found in ancient Egyptian tombs dating to the 4th millennium BC. found.

The first steel-edged cutthroat razors were made in Sheffield in 1680. In the late 1680s, early 1690s razors with silver-coated handles, along with other Sheffield-made products known as “Sheffield goods”, were exported to ports in the Gulf of Finland, approximately 1200 miles (1931 km) from Sheffield. From there these goods were probably sent to Finland and even to Russia. Around 1740, Benjamin Huntsman manufactured razors with decorated handles and hollow-ground cast steel blades using a process he had invented. Huntsman’s method was adopted by the French some time later, albeit reluctantly at first for nationalistic reasons. In England, razor makers were even more reluctant than the French to adopt Huntsman’s steelmaking process, and only did so after seeing its success in France.

After their introduction in 1680, straight razors became the main method of manual shaving for more than two hundred years and remained widespread until the mid-20th century.[6] Razor production eventually fell behind that of the safety razor, which was introduced in the late 19th century and featured a disposable blade. Electric razors have also reduced the razor market share, particularly since the 1950s.[5][6][7] A 1979 study by Dutch researchers comparing razors and electric razors found that razors shave hair about 0.002 inches (0.05 mm) shorter than electric razors.[8]

Since 2012, the production of straight razors has multiplied. Straight razor sales are increasing worldwide and manufacturers are struggling to keep up with demand.[9] Sales started to increase since the product was featured in the 2012 James Bond film Skyfall and have remained high ever since. Straight razors are also perceived as a cheaper and more sustainable and efficient product.[9][10] Dovo in Germany reports that since a production dip of less than 8,000 units per year in 2006, the company has been selling 3,000 units per month[11] and has 110,000 orders with a production lead time of three years.[9][11] The increased sales have also led to an increase in the number of associated professions and craftsmen such as bladesmiths, leatherworkers and potters.[9]

Forums and outlets provide products, guides and advice to razor users. There are razor manufacturers in Europe, Asia and North America. Antique straight razors are also actively traded. Straight razors require great skill to sharpen and hone, and require more care when shaving.[12] Razor design and use was once an important part of the curriculum at hairdressing schools.[13]

history [edit]

Bronze handle razor from Ancient Egypt during the New Kingdom (1569 – 1081 BC)

Various types of straight razors have been used throughout history, differing in appearance but similar in use to modern straight razors. In prehistoric times, conch shells, shark teeth, and flint were sharpened and used for shaving. Drawings of such blades have been found in prehistoric caves. Some tribes still use flint blades today. Excavations in Egypt have uncovered solid gold and copper razors in tombs dating to the 4th millennium BC. The Roman historian Livy reported that the razor was invented in the 6th century BC. It was introduced to ancient Rome by the legendary king Lucius Tarquinius Priscus. Priscus was ahead of his time because straight razors did not come into general use until a century later.[7]

The first folding narrow blade razors were recorded in 1680 by a maker from Sheffield, England.[14][15][16][17][18] In the late 1680s, early 1690s, razors with silver-coated handles, along with other Sheffield-made products known as ‘Sheffield goods’, were introduced by John Spencer (1655-1729) of Cannon Hall, a wealthy landowner and industrialist, in Ports exported in the Gulf of Finland, approximately 1200 miles (1931 km) from Sheffield. From there these goods were probably sent to Finland and even to Russia.[18] Around 1740, Benjamin Huntsman manufactured razors with decorated handles and hollow-ground cast steel blades using a process he had invented. Huntsman’s process was adopted by the French some time later; albeit reluctantly at first due to nationalist resentment. The English manufacturers were even more hesitant than the French to adopt the process and only did so after seeing its success in France.[7]

Sheffield steel, a highly polished steel also known as “Sheffield silver steel” and famous for its deep lustrous finish, is considered a high quality steel and is still used in France today by manufacturers such as Thiers Issard.[19] After their introduction in 1680, straight razors became the main method of manual shaving for more than two hundred years and remained widespread until the mid-20th century.[6] Electric razors have also reduced the razor’s market share, particularly since the 1950s.[5][6][7]

Straight razors eventually went out of fashion. Your first challenger was made by King C. Gillette: a double-edged safety razor with interchangeable blades. These new safety razors did not require serious instruction to use.[12] The blades were extremely difficult to sharpen and should be discarded after a single use, and rusted quickly if not discarded. They also required less initial investment, although they cost more over time.[20] Despite its long-term advantages, the straight razor lost significant market share. As shaving became less intimidating and men began to shave more, demand for barbers offering razor cuts fell.[6]

Since 2012, the production of straight razors has multiplied. Straight razor sales are increasing worldwide and manufacturers are struggling to keep up with demand.[9] Straight razor sales are increasing because they are perceived as a cheaper and more efficient product.[9][10]

Dovo in Germany reports that since a production dip of less than 8,000 units per year in 2006, the company has been selling 3,000 units per month[11] and has 110,000 orders with a production lead time of three years.[11][9] The Dovo spokesman commented that around 2006 “we were producing less than 8,000 razors a year. The tradition of making straight razors had almost come to an end.”[9] Dovo explains that after the 2012 James Bond film Skyfall, sales of straight razors plummeted and that “built into a wave persistent excessive demands that we still ride today”.[9] The increased sales have also led to an increase in the number of associated professions and craftsmen such as bladesmiths, leatherworkers and potters.[9]

Design criteria[ edit ]

The design of the razor is based on the grind of the blade, the width and length of the blade, the handle, which also affects the balance of the razor, the material of the blade, and the finish and level of polish of the blade material.[21]

Part description [ edit ]

Parts of a razor

The parts of a straight razor and their function are described as follows: The narrow end of the blade pivots on a pin called the fulcrum between two guard parts called the scales or handle. The upwardly curved metal end of the narrow part of the blade behind the fulcrum is called the tang and serves as a lever to lift the blade from the hilt. A finger or two resting on the tang also helps stabilize the blade while you shave. The narrow piece of support between the tang and the main blade is called the shank,[22] but this term is often avoided because it can be confusing since the shank is also called the shank.[23] The shaft sometimes bears decorations and the stamp of the brand. The top and bottom of the shank can sometimes feature indentations known as knurling or knurling to provide a secure grip.[19] The curved lower part of the main blade from the shank to the cutting edge is called the shoulder.[24] The point where the shoulder meets the edge is called the heel.[25] The terminus of the cutting edge at the front of the blade, opposite the heel, is called the toe.

1 ⁄ 2 hollow ground 16 mm (5 ⁄ 8 in) blade and single stabilizer in a three-prong handle configuration. The center pin gives the handle stability and rigidity. Solingen straight razor with a slightly rounded, hollow-ground 16 mm French-tipped blade and a single stabilizer in a three-prong handle configuration. The center pin gives the handle stability and rigidity

A thick strip of metal that runs across the joint where the main blade attaches to the shaft is called the stabilizer. The stabilizer can be double, single or absent on some razor models. The first stabilizer is usually very narrow and thicker, running at the shank-to-blade junction, covering the shank and only spilling over to the shoulder. The second stabilizer can be distinguished as it is significantly wider, thinner and longer, appears after the first stabilizer and runs lower towards the heel.[22]

The curved, non-cutting top of the blade is called the spine or spine, while the cutting portion of the blade opposite the spine is called the cutting edge. Finally, the other free end of the blade, at the opposite end of the tang at the spine, is called the point and sometimes the head or nose.[24][26]

There are usually two, but sometimes three pins in the handle. The center pin, if present, is plastic-coated and is called the center plug.[23] Its function is to stabilize the sides of the handle so they don’t get crushed in the middle and acts as a bridge between them. When folded into the scales, the blade is protected from accidental damage and the user is protected from accidental injury. During folding, the spine of the blade, which is thick and usually has a curved cross-section, acts as a natural stop, preventing further rotation of the blade from the handle from the other side. The frictional force applied between the scales and the tang around the pivot is called tension and determines how freely the blade rotates around the pivot.[27] For safety reasons, there should be adequate tension to ensure the blade does not rotate freely when opening or closing.[27]

construction [edit]

Straight razors consist of a blade sharpened on one edge and a handle attached to the blade by a pin. The blade can then be rotated in and out of the handle. The blade can be either stainless steel, which resists rusting but is more difficult to sharpen, or high-carbon steel, which is much easier to sharpen, given a sharper edge, but will rust more easily than stainless steel if neglected.[25][28][29 ][30] Cheap stainless steel razors from Asia and more expensive stainless steel and carbon steel razors from Europe are available.

A razor blade begins as a form, which the steelmaker calls a blank.[5]

Forging [ edit ] [21] Razor blank made by forging welded steel wire. The strands of wire are visible on the right, while the empty blade and its shaft, shoulder, heel, and spine are visible on the left.

The blade blank is made by forging steel ingots or steel available in other forms such as wire, springs, etc. After the blank is formed, the first step is to clean it with a heavy forge. Steel with a carbon content of at least 0.6% is used as the material for open razors. This percentage of carbon provides optimal hardness, flexibility, and wear resistance.[5] After forging, a hole is drilled into the tang at the pivot point. This is a crucial step as drilling would no longer be possible after the steel hardening process. This process requires great skill.[19]

Hardening and tempering[edit]

The steel is hardened using a special process that heats the forged steel blade to around 760°C (1,400°F), depending on the steel. This heating allows the steel to be heated quickly and evenly to the optimum temperature for maximum hardness. The tempering phase follows the hardening process, in which the blade is heated in an oil bath to a temperature between 200–400 °C (392–752 °F). Tempering gives the steel its flexibility and toughness according to the status diagrams for steel.[5] Depending on the degree of hardness, there are three types of steel blades. Hard tempered, medium tempered and soft tempered. Hard-tempered edges last longer, but sharpening them is difficult. The opposite is true for annealed blades. The properties of medium-hardened blades fall between the two extremes.[13] Carbon steel blades can reach a maximum hardness of 61 HRC on the Rockwell scale.[31]

Loops [ edit ]

After the hardening and tempering processes, the blanks are ground according to the two basic blade cross-sectional profiles.

conclusion [edit] [21] A round-tipped razor. Its high gloss finish indicates metallization normally associated with inferior quality.

After grinding, the blade is polished to different degrees of shine. The finest finish used in the most expensive razors is the high gloss finish.[19] Mirror finish is the only finish used when gold leaf is to be part of the blade’s decoration.[19]

Satin finish requires less polishing time and is therefore not as expensive to produce. This finish is primarily used with black acid etching. As a compromise, sometimes a satin finish can be applied to the back of the blade, while the mirror finish and gold leaf are applied to the more visible front of the blade. This way the blade is not as expensive as a fully mirror polished one.[19] Metal plating using nickel or silver is also used but is not preferred; The coating eventually erodes with use, revealing the underlying metal, which is often of inferior quality. Nickel-plated blades are very difficult to sharpen repeatedly and are made primarily for aesthetic reasons, although lacking in functionality.[21]

Blade decoration[ edit ]

Depending on the price, the blade is decorated with engraving or gold leaf. Less expensive blades undergo an electrolytic black acid engraving process. More expensive blades have gold leaf applied by hand using a traditional process.[19]

Sharpen [ edit ]

Handling the straight razor when honing on a whetstone

Sharpening is the final stage of the process. First the blade is sharpened on a grinding wheel. The blade can then be sharpened by holding the blades against the flat side of rotating round stones or by dragging the blade over stationary flat stones. The edge is finished with a strop.[19] Sharpening is usually not completed during manufacture, but after purchase.[32]

Handling materials and their properties[edit]

Fox and Rooster Thiers-Issard razor with two-prong handle Thiers-Issard razor with two-prong handle

Handle scales are made from a variety of materials, including mother-of-pearl, bakelite, celluloid, bone, plastic, wood, horn, acrylic, ivory, and tortoiseshell. Celluloid can spontaneously ignite at elevated temperatures. Buffalo horn tends to warp over time and it has shape memory so it tends to warp. Mother-of-pearl is a brittle material and may crack after some use.[33] Resin-impregnated wooden handles are waterproof, won’t deform, and their weight complements that of the blade to give the razor good overall balance. Snakewood, Brosimum guianense,[35] is also suitable for long-term and intensive use.

The mechanical properties of bone make it a good grip material.[33] Handles used to be made of elephant ivory but this has been discontinued, although fossil ivory such as mammoth is still sometimes used and antique straight razors with ivory scales are occasionally found (it’s illegal to kill elephants for their ivory, but it’s so legal to use a straight razor with ivory handle made before 1989).[36][37][38]

Blade geometry and properties[edit]

The geometry of the blade can be categorized by three factors: blade width and weight, the shape of the razor point profile, and the type of honing process used for the blade (since the honing process determines the degree of curvature – and therefore hollowness or thinness – of the sides of the cross-section of the blade).[5]

Point types [ edit ] [21] Four of the main blade tip (nose) profile shapes: Square, Barber’s Notch, Round and French (with a round terminus at the tip)

Straight razors are first categorized by their blade profiles, from the head of the spine to the blade tip, based on their point or nose type. The following are the main types of blade profiles called points or nose shapes:[5][21][39][31]

Square, pointed or sharp point, so called because the blade profile is straight and ends in a very sharp point at the tip, perpendicular to the razor’s cutting edge. This type of blade is used for precise shaving in small areas, but requires some experience to handle due to the risk of pinching the skin.[40] Spike Point differs from Square Point because the angle at the edge of the blade is less than 90 degrees. resulting in a blade profile that appears raked back at the tip. The peak end point of the profile at the tip can be ground by the user to make it rounder, but this may indicate a lack of skill in handling the razor.[21] Barber’s notch. The barber’s notch features a large rounded peak at the tip of the blade, followed by a short concave and rounded arc, while its top edge at the head of the spine is rounded and smaller than the curve at the tip. The upper, rounded edge of Barber’s notch was designed to make it easier to extract the blade from the scales. The barber’s notch is essentially a round-nosed blade profile with a concave arc (notch) at its top to help lift the blade off the scales. Round dot (or Dutch). As the name suggests, the tip profile is symmetrically arcuate from head to toe and therefore has no sharp endpoints. As such, it’s a more forgiving blade than the other types, and while it lacks the tip of the blade, it’s more forgiving and recommended for relatively inexperienced users. There are also secondary edge types derived from a combination of round nose features, such as B. A semi-circular tip with rounded edges connected by a linear segment. French point with a spike terminating point at the French (or sloping) toe point. Its tip profile is asymmetrically curved from tip to toe, resembling a quarter circle or ellipse, but with a sharper curve near the blade head than the other tips. The end line of the profile at the tip of the blade can vary between pointed and curved. Compared to the other tips, the French tip can help to shave “difficult spots” like under the nose due to its sharp-edged profile on the head that creates more clearance in tight areas. Spanish point with the characteristic double points at the head and tip of the blade. Spanish point. The Spanish Pointer’s profile has a small rounded peak at the head followed by a long concave arch ending in a small rounded ridge at the top. This tip should be used with caution when shaving or wiping as it tends to “bite” due to its sharp edges.

Grinding method[edit] [41] Blade geometry and nomenclature

The second category relates to the type of sharpening process used and, as it affects the curvature of the blade cross-section, includes the following two main types of blade sharpening:

Hollow grind, indicating the sides of the blade cross-section are concave.[5][42] Flat or straight grind, indicating the sides of the blade’s cross-section are linear. This cross-section most closely resembles a wedge, which is why this blade is sometimes referred to as a wedge.[25]

The combination of the types found in these two classification categories can theoretically result in a variety of blade types, such as: B. Round point, hollow ground, square point, flat ground, etc. In practice, however, some points are combined with a specific cut. For example, a French point blade is usually ground flat.[5][40]

degrees of hollowness. From left: Extra hollow (singing blade), 1/1 hollow, 1/2 hollow, 1/4 hollow, concave wedge, linear wedge

A hollow grind produces a thinner blade than the flat grind because more material is removed from the blade (the blade becomes more hollowed out or thinner). The hollow-ground blade flexes more easily and provides more feedback on the resistance the blade encounters when cutting hair, which is an indicator of the blade’s sharpness.[13][43] Hollow ground blades are preferred by most barbers and some high end straight razor manufacturers limit their production to hollow ground razors only.

Blade Width[ edit ] [21] Four common width sizes of blades.

The third and final category relates to blade width. The width of the blade is defined as the distance between the back of the blade and the cutting edge. It is expressed in units of eighths of an inch.[25] Sizes vary from 3⁄8 inch (9.5 mm) up to 7⁄8 inch (22 mm), rarely 8⁄8 inch (25 mm).[25] A wider blade can transport more foam, much like a scoop, during multiple consecutive shaves, allowing the user more shaving time and minimizing blade flush cycles. The disadvantage of the wider blade is that it is not as manoeuvrable as a narrower blade. A narrow blade can shave narrow areas of the face, e.g. B. under the nose, but must be flushed more frequently. The most popular blade width is 5⁄8 inch (16 mm).[25] The width of the blade can also affect its sharpness. The wider the blade, the greater the thermal distortion that can occur from changing temperatures, which can lead to loss of edge sharpness.[21]

Blade weight [ edit ]

The weight of the blade is inversely proportional to the pressure exerted while shaving. The heavier the blade, the less pressure that needs to be exerted while shaving.[44]

Length, stability and balance[ edit ]

The degree of hollowness and thus the cross-sectional area (thickness) of the blade will vary depending on the grinding process used. A higher degree of hollowness in the blade implies a thinner cross-section and this affects the stability (bending or buckling properties) of the blade; The thinner the blade, the more flexible it is.[5][33] The length and weight of the blade and handle and their relationship to each other determine the balance of the razor.[13] The razor’s cutting area is proportional to the length of the blade, so a longer blade will require less frequent sharpening because its cutting edge will not wear out as quickly as a shorter blade.[21]

Stabilizer bar [ edit ]

16 mm ( 5 ⁄ 8 in) blade and double bar Antique square-tipped straight razor with fully hollow ground 16 mm (in) blade and double bar

On hollow-ground blades, stability is enhanced by a stabilizer bar in the form of one or two narrow strips of thicker metal running from the back of the blade to the end of the shoulder (at the juncture where the blade meets the shank). This part, when present, is simply referred to as the stabilizer (single or double) and indicates a hollow ground blade, as a flat ground blade is solid and strong enough not to require a stabilizer. A double stabilizer means 1⁄1 (full) hollow ground blade.[33] The stabilizer protects the blade from torsional bending in the transverse direction (cross spine).[33]

Longitudinal stabilizer[ edit ]

Blade cross-section shows hollow-ground blade geometry with different radii of curvature. The belly indicates the presence of a longitudinal stabilizer.

In addition to the transverse stabilizer, a longitudinal stabilizer is sometimes made in the form of a ridge parallel to the cutting edge and the blade ground in two areas or bevels, each with a different degree of hollowness or curvature; The area between the blade spine and the ridge is typically less hollow and has a larger radius of curvature, also known as the “belly”, [42] and the area between the ridge and the cutting edge, which is more hollow, i.e. a smaller radius of curvature. These two beveled areas have different curvatures and blend seamlessly into the burr (belly) and cutting edge, respectively, on a well-made razor.[33][45] Sometimes there are three bevels.[45]

The rib stabilizes the blade against torsional bending in a direction perpendicular to its longitudinal axis by acting as a longitudinal ridge for the blade. The distance between the ridge and the back of the blade is inversely proportional to the hollowness of the blade and is broken down in increasing increments of 1⁄4 described as, for example, 1⁄4 hollow, 1⁄2 hollow, or 4 ⁄4 or 1⁄1 (fully hollow ). Fully hollowed out indicates that the stabilizing ridge is very close to the middle part of the blade and furthest from the cutting edge compared to the other grades. This is considered the most expensive blade.[33]

At the highest end of the hollow grind, even more hollow than the 1⁄1 degree, is what is known as the singing razor, so called because its blade produces a specific resonance sound when plucked, similar to a guitar string, but such use is not recommended. as it can distort the cutting edge.[19][25] Its manufacturing process is so demanding that a full 25% of blades are rejected for not meeting standards.[19]

Stability and sharpness[ edit ]

Blade geometry and hollowness. Blade A is less hollow than blade B because blade A has more material than blade B. Visually, blade B’s belly is higher than blade A’s belly, indicating a higher degree of hollowness. Profile C represents the extra-hollow ground blade. The right spline is used as a reference for zero hollowness.

There is a trade-off between stability and long-term blade sharpness. A full hollow ground (1⁄1) blade can retain a very sharp edge even after a large number of honing cycles due to its high degree of hollowness, but is more prone to torsional bending because it is thinner.[33] A partially hollow blade (e.g. 1⁄2 or 1⁄4) cannot maintain the same sharpness for as long because eroding the cutting edge will eventually allow it to reach the stabilizing ridge more quickly, where there is more material, and thus the cutting edge . Edge beveling cannot be maintained without excessive honing of the stabilizing ridge to remove the extra material that could also destabilize the rest of the blade. Die teilweise hohle Klinge ist jedoch stabiler, da sie durch ihr zusätzliches Material steifer und damit widerstandsfähiger gegen Verformungen ist.[33] Darüber hinaus ist ein flach geschliffenes Blatt, da es per Definition überhaupt nicht hohl (gekrümmt) ist, das stabilste der Blätter, aber weil seine Querschnittsfläche am größten ist, fühlt es sich auch schwerer an als ein hohl geschliffenes Blatt, was das Gefühl und die Balance beeinträchtigen kann des Rasiermessers.[5][25]

Guthaben [Bearbeiten]

Ein Rasiermesser ist gut ausbalanciert, wenn es im geöffneten Zustand um seinen Drehzapfen balanciert, was anzeigt, dass die Drehmomente um den Drehpunkt, die durch die entsprechenden Gewichtsverteilungen der Klinge und des Griffs um den Drehzapfen verursacht werden, sich gegenseitig ausgleichen.[13] Ein gut ausbalancierter Rasierer ist im geöffneten Zustand sowohl sicherer zu handhaben als auch leichter zu rasieren.[13]

Auswirkungen der Blattgeometrie auf die Leistung

Die Eigenschaften jedes Klingentyps bestimmen die Art der empfohlenen Verwendung für jede Klinge sowie ihre Leistung und Wartungsroutinen.

Jeder Typ hat seine eigenen Stärken und Schwächen, abhängig von den Nutzungsanforderungen.

22 mm ( 7 ⁄ 8 in), 1/2 hohl geschliffene Edelstahlklinge

Extra hohle Klingen wie Singing Blades sind die dünnsten und bieten daher die bestmögliche Rasur von allen anderen Arten.[19] Allerdings sind sie auch sehr flexibel und daher nicht für Arbeiten geeignet, die einen erhöhten Druck auf die Klinge erfordern, wie z. B. starker Bartwuchs etc. Auch beim Abstreifen sollte darauf geachtet werden, dass die dünne Klinge nicht zu stark belastet wird, da sie auch einer Beanspruchung nicht standhalten kann als niedrigere Noten.[19] Flachgeschliffene Rasierer sind sehr stabil und können als solche schwierige Rasierarbeiten bewältigen, da sie sich unter Druck nicht leicht verformen und grobe Behandlungen wie schweres Abziehen und Honen aushalten.[19]

Obwohl eine breitere Klinge nicht so manövrierfähig ist wie eine schmalere, insbesondere an engen Stellen, ist es besser, eine breitere Klinge zu kaufen, da das Honen die Breite der Klinge mit der Zeit verringert, was die Lebensdauer eines Rasiermessers verkürzen kann mit schmaler Klinge.[21] Andererseits ist die Breite der Klinge proportional zum Klingenverzug, der aufgrund von Temperaturschwankungen auftreten kann; Dies kann zu häufigerem Abziehen und Honen führen, da die Verformung der Klinge aufgrund thermischer Belastung zu einem Verlust der Schneidkantenschärfe führen kann.[21]

usage [edit] [21] Swaty Honstein und Rasierklinge. Swaty gilt als einer der besten Wetzsteine.

Die Rasur erfolgt mit der Klinge in einem Winkel von ungefähr dreißig Grad zur Haut und in einer Richtung senkrecht zur Kante;[24] ein Einschnitt erfordert die Bewegung der Klinge seitwärts oder in einer Richtung parallel zur Kante[25 ] Diese Umstände werden vom Rasierer immer vermieden, der immer senkrecht zur Schneide der Klinge rasiert.[25]

Um am effektivsten zu sein, muss ein Rasiermesser extrem scharf gehalten werden. Die Kante ist empfindlich und bei unsachgemäßer Verwendung kann sich die Rasierklinge verbiegen oder falten. Um die mikroskopisch scharfe Kante zu entfalten und zu glätten, muss man die Klinge regelmäßig auf Leder streifen.[46] Eine 1979 von niederländischen Forschern durchgeführte Vergleichsstudie von Rasiermessern und Elektrorasierern ergab, dass Rasiermesser Haare etwa 0,05 mm (2/1000 Zoll) kürzer rasieren als Elektrorasierer.[8]

To sharpen or finish the blade using a suspended strop, the razor is pushed toward the suspension ring while both the back and the cutting edge lie flat on the strop and with the back of the blade. No pressure should be applied on the cutting edge. A strop may be two sided with leather on one side and cloth on the other side. The cloth is used for blade alignment and sharpening. The leather is for finishing.[47]

During stropping, the strop hangs from the ring and is pulled from the rectangular loop giving it a proper tension

The stropping process involves sliding the razor blade flat on the strop; upon reaching the end of the cloth or leather near the suspension ring, the blade is turned about its back (clockwise for a right-handed barber; counter-clockwise for a left-handed one) until the cutting edge touches the strop. It is then pulled toward the rectangular handle of the strop with back and cutting edge flat on the strop as before. The blade is moved in a slightly diagonal direction so to give every point of the edge a chance to touch the strop, without applying too much pressure. This process aligns the cutting edge properly with the back of the blade, avoiding “bumps” on the cutting edge. Rotating the blade on the strop about the cutting edge can damage it because such use will impact the micro-alignment of the edge.[45] Depending on use and condition, the blade can be sharpened occasionally by using a razor hone.[48][49] Strops prepared with pastes containing fine grit are also used for honing but are not recommended for the inexperienced user, as they can easily rake off the edge if they apply the wrong amount or exert too much pressure.[34][50]

Some strops have a linen or canvas back.[51]

Shaving soap in a cup is traditionally lathered and applied using a rotating in-and-out motion of a shaving brush, usually made of boar or badger bristles.[52] In the heyday of straight razor shaving, wealthy users maintained a weekly “rotation” of seven razors to reduce wear on any one piece. Straight razors were often sold in special boxes of seven labelled for the days of the week.[53]

Modern use[edit] [5] Antique leather barber’s strop. It is best for sturdy wedge type blades. Hollow ground blades should be stropped on a hanging strop, since it provides a more flexible support for the blade.

Man being shaved with straight razor. Roadside, Kashgar

Straight razors are still manufactured. DOVO, of Solingen, Germany, and Thiers Issard of France are two of the best-known European manufacturers.[54] Boeker of Solingen is yet another cutlery manufacturer known for their straight razors.[55] Wusthof and Henckels are two prominent knife manufacturers in Solingen who also produced straight razors.[54] Thiers Issard and Hart Steel are famous for their decorated blades and their Damascus steel.[54] Feather Safety Razor Co. Ltd. of Osaka, Japan, makes a razor with the same form as a traditional straight, but featuring a disposable blade that can be installed through an injector-type system. Artisans also make handcrafted custom straight razors based on their own designs, the designs of their customers, or by finishing old blanks of blades.[56]

Modern straight-razor users are known to favor them for a variety of reasons. Some are attracted to the nostalgia of using old and traditional methods of shaving. Others wish to avoid the waste of disposable blades.[25][57]

Still others argue that straight razors provide a superior shave through a larger blade and greater control of the blade, including the blade angle. Straight razors cover a much greater area per shaving stroke, because their cutting edge is much longer than any of the multi-blade razors.

They also do not have to be rinsed as often, because their blade acts like a scoop and carries the lather on it during multiple shaving strokes, while the multi-blade razors are not nearly as efficient at such a task because of their considerably smaller blade geometry.[25][58]

DOVO straight razor

Straight razors are also much easier to clean and can handle tougher shaving tasks, such as longer facial hair, than modern multi-blade razors, which tend to trap shaving debris between their tightly packed blades and are easily clogged, even with relatively short stubble.[58][59]

In addition, multi-edge razors can irritate the skin due to their multi-blade action, and this can lead to a condition known as pseudofolliculitis barbae, colloquially known as razor bumps. One of the recommended actions for those so affected is to switch to single blade use.[60]

Others simply like the good results and the satisfaction of maintaining the blade themselves.[25] Yet others cite aesthetic reasons in addition to the practical ones. A well-made blade, in a nice handle with a well-crafted etching and decorated shank, carries a sense of craftsmanship and ownership difficult to associate with a disposable blade cartridge.[25]

Finally, a well-kept razor can last for decades,[25] and can become a family heirloom that can be passed from parent to child.[25][61] For all of these reasons, devotees of the straight razor make for an active market.

Shavette

Owing to health concerns, some areas require barbers who provide straight-razor shaving to use a version that employs a disposable or changeable blade system. In this type of straight razor the razor blade is changed and disposed of after each service. In places such as Turkey, Australia, New Zealand, Ontario, Pennsylvania, Denver, Boston, Texas and San Diego, however, the professional use of straight razors in barber shops is legal.[3][62][63][64][65][66]

The 2012 James Bond film, Skyfall, has renewed interest in straight razors due to a scene when the agent shaves with one and his co-star Naomie Harris helps him finish shaving while remarking that “sometimes the old ways are the best”.[67] Online straight razor retailers have reported increased sales ranging from 50% to over 400% due to the exposure generated by the film.[67]

The increase in sales is part of an overall growth in demand for straight razors, since about 2008, which has also seen an increase in the number of barbers offering straight razor shaves.[67] The phenomenon seems to be driven by renewed nostalgia for things retro such as the straight razor which evokes simpler notions of the past such as the “macho” image associated with its use and also the skill required to shave with it which can be a source of pride.[67]

Cost [ edit ]

As compared to the disposable and cartridge razors, straight razors are more economical, despite a higher initial cost, because if properly cared for, no additional cost is incurred, as compared to disposable razors where new cartridges must be periodically procured.[68]

Environment [ edit ]

Straight razors are more environmentally friendly than other types of razors since the latter come with packaging that may have to be thrown away along with the razors, and, in the case of electric razors, batteries that are typically disposed of after they expire.[68] Straight razors produce no waste and they require only a strop for honing.[68]

Handling and honing [ edit ]

The various straight razor honing and stropping directions and handling techniques are illustrated by the drawings below.

Razor honing directions on a whetstone

Razor honing directions on a whetstone diagonally

Razor handling technique

Testing edge after honing by pushing the cutting edge on a moist nail to test its grip

Stropping technique on a hanging strop

Testing edge after stropping by touching the cutting edge with a finger

Representation of shaving with a straight razor from a book about the art of shaving from 1846

Paris ca. 1760, the first safety straight razor invented by French master cutler Jean-Jacques Perret

It’s the age-old question (or rather, decades-old): How many blades should a razor have to give you the best possible shave? Companies these days will have you believe that four or even five is the minimum.

Why exactly do you need all those blades? We all want to shave less often without irritating or cutting our skin. However, since very few scientists have actually bothered to study razor types, it makes it easy for razor manufacturers to claim that the more blades you have, the better you shave.

Shaving is tricky and difficult, definitely not something more blades can easily solve. Our hairy parts are different – men have curvy chins and upper lips, women have long, curvy legs and concave armpits. In fact, the reason razors have different handle designs is because they have to deal with the differences between men’s and women’s curves.

And don’t forget the bumps that our skin naturally creates around each individual hair, creating another obstacle for our razors. In addition, you can completely forget about the idea of ​​standing hair. Our hair grows in different directions, especially on the chin and neck of men and armpits of women. To avoid irritation, the hair should be removed in the direction of growth.

Based on what we know, more blades appear to give a closer shave. However, the blade number seems less relevant than your shaving technique. After all, none of us want chapped skin, razor burn, ingrown hairs, or worse, acne.

For the closest shave, all you have to do is trim the hairs below the skin’s surface. And no, the razor doesn’t dig into your skin, but razors with multiple blades give you a closer shave than a single blade. To understand why, you need to know how they work.

#1 The first blade is blunt – it hooks the hair above the surface; If you press it further, the blade pulls the hair forward and up.

#2 The next blade is sharp – it comes right after the dull one and cuts the hair.

For razors with 4 or 5 blades, this process is repeated twice! However, if you’re worried about the notches, you’re not the only one. Most dermatologists recommend two blades as they seem to prevent cuts as the razor head takes up less area on sharp turns and is easier to control. They also occur when the razor presses against your skin, forcing your skin into a mound in front of it. If the blade is the first the mound hits, you’ll get nicks! The easiest way to avoid them is to shave gently instead of shaving too hard.

However, nicks aren’t the only thing that worries us about shaving. Ingrown hairs have always been a problem and a preventable one. Hair can get ingrown in a number of ways, but we can always trace it back to a close shave. The trimmed hair is cut at an angle, has a sharp point and retracts under the skin. Because it is sharp, it can pierce the follicle wall and grow into the surrounding skin.

The hairs most prone to ingrowth are those on the chin and neck of men. Curly beard hairs are particularly prone to this. The bumps that grow afterwards are usually very painful and unsightly, but the worst thing is that they can leave permanent scars. Daily shaving prevents the hair from growing long enough to bend and re-penetrate the skin. However, men with curly beards are still less fortunate and it is recommended to let their beards grow. And if you NEED to shave, many dermatologists advise leaving your hair a little longer and just trimming it!

We covered nicks and ingrown hairs, that’s it? Not really. Another injury to avoid is razor burn, which is caused by excessive exfoliation while shaving. However, avoiding them has nothing to do with the number of blades, but with the shaving technique. Dermatologists say dull razors are the cause. Instead of replacing your razor too often, try sharpening it with the Tap, the 3-in-1 razor cleaner, sharpener and holder. How to avoid razor burn with every shave. Let’s face it, the razor dulls after the first shave and with the Tap, the fifth razor feels like the first!

In summary, the blade count debate stems from the vast differences in the way men and women handle their razors. Some people shave in 30 seconds, others 30 minutes; some use 1000 strokes, some 100 strokes. It depends on what you are most comfortable with. Do your own research and don’t be too scared (or too careless) to experiment.

There are many different types of cartridge razors. You can now find them anywhere from two blades up to a maximum of seven blades (I saw this in a cartridge razor recently and was quite surprised). However, the most popular number of blades in a razor still remains the same – the 3-blade and 5-blade razors are still at the top.

However, for those who have not used any of these types of razors, it can prove a bit difficult to know which of them to choose. So if you’re trying to decide between them, what are the main differences between a 3-blade razor and a 5-blade razor? Now let’s look at some of the differences.

Overview of 3-blade razor vs. 5-blade razor

If you’re trying to decide between the two, then a 5-blade razor is generally recommended for most people, especially those who have thicker hair, which many benefit from a multi-blade approach. However, if you have particularly sensitive skin, a 3-blade razor may be a better choice.

Many men don’t give too much thought to using a 3-blade or 5-blade razor. They think that all they have to do is clean their beard and the variable number of blades doesn’t make much of a difference.

However, reality shows that this affects their beard and skin a lot. Choosing the right razor treats and improves irritation and the health of the skin and beard.

3-blade razor

Lee’s Razors Please enable JavaScript Lee’s Razors

The more blades you use, the more likely you are to irritate your skin. Think about it – you’re grazing stainless steel blades across your skin. This is actually the reason why many people choose a safety razor that only has one blade.

Anyway, most people seem to be able to use a 3-blade razor on their skin. But 5 or 6 blade razors can increase your chances of getting irritated skin. This means more razor bumps, ingrown hairs, and red rashes.

Well, that’s definitely not the case for everyone, and many people seem to be able to use a 5-blade razor with no problems. But if you have particularly sensitive skin, then a 3-blade razor is a better option. If you shave a sensitive area (like your scalp or down there), I would definitely advise you to use a 3-blade razor instead of a 5-blade razor.

Best 3-Blade Razor: If you are looking for a 3-blade razor, you should definitely check out the Mach 3. It’s one of Gillette’s most popular razors and offers a much more sensitive shave than many 5-blade razors out there.

5 blade razor

The main advantage of using a 5-blade razor over a 3-blade razor is that you will likely shorten your shaving time. Think about it – when you have 5 blades gliding across your skin instead of just 3 blades, it makes sense that you’re cutting more hair, right? With a 5-blade razor you can cut more hair faster than with a 3-blade razor.

In fact, according to razor brands like Gillette, they do more than that — the increased number of blades is meant to minimize the chance of you cutting yourself too. However, the majority of people have never cut themselves with a 3-blade razor either.

For most people, a 5-blade razor is fine when combined with the right shaving cream and shaving technique. If you want to shave your facial hair quickly, it’s probably worth getting a five-blade razor.

Best 5-Blade Razor: If you’re looking for the best 5-blade razor out there, then I recommend checking out the Wilkinson’s Sword Hydro 5. It’s one of the most popular razors in the world, and refill cartridges for it are cheaper than Gillette’s. You can also check out Lee’s Guide to Shave Clubs, which are mostly 5-blade razors.

Comparison factors between 3-blade razor and 5-blade razor

The aggressiveness of the razor

For comparison, the more blades your razor has, the more aggressive it is.

However, it also depends on the material from which it is made. For example, alloy steel has a much lower value than stainless steel. Stainless steel, with sharper and thinner properties than other materials, helps you shave cleaner and cleaner.

With the same material, a 5-blade razor will of course prevail over a 3-blade razor.

The proximity of the razor

In terms of comparing the same material, the closeness of the razor to a multi-blade razor doesn’t change much.

The operating mechanism of the multi-blade shaving system remains the same no matter how many blades are added.

Skin comfort of the shaver

The question of the number of razor blades does not affect the comfort of the skin. Skin comfort depends on the quantity or quality of the razor’s glide strip.

However, if you have sensitive skin, you should consider the number of blades. Because more blades mean more friction. Excessive friction can cause razor burn, nicks and skin irritation.

If you feel uncomfortable using a 5-blade razor, reducing it to 3 blades will only reduce the uncomfortable problem without completely solving it. You need to change the type of razor or razor blade you are using.

The speed of the razor

Still comparing the same material, a 5-blade razor has a faster shaving speed than a 3-blade razor. This superior speed is made possible by the 5-blade system, which delivers more cuts than the 3-blade system.

The longevity of the blade life

Blade life is affected by many factors. However, without considering other influencing factors, a 5-blade razor will last longer than a 3-blade razor.

Because 3-blade razors share the workload more between the individual blades, their lifespan is also shorter.

Conclusion

As with many things in the field of shaving, a large part of deciding how many blades to use comes down to preference and experience.

We hope that the above article has given you the information you need to make your choice easier. Stay in touch and see you next post!

Start looking for any razor beyond a cheap disposable razor and you will find that there are many options when it comes to blades.

In fact, it’s nearly impossible to find a safety razor without multiple blades. At least you’ll find cartridges with three blades, but even those seem to be being replaced by razors with even more blades. Today five blades seems to be the standard, with some razors going up to seven (!) blades.

The satirical newspaper The Onion predicted this years ago in its classic article.

Given that the number of blades in a razor has been a joke for years, is more blades just a marketing gimmick to beat the competition and make more money? Or is there a real reason more blades can make for a better shave?

Why more blades should make for a better shave

The increase in blade count in today’s razors is rooted in solid theory. According to Gillette, there are several reasons why more razors are beneficial.

The first reason has to do with the closeness of the shave. With more blades, razors are designed to cut hair closer to the skin.

Get a feel for your stubble and you can feel that facial hair is thick and hard. A sharp razor is required for cutting, especially if you want to minimize the pulling that can occur when shaving.

With multiple blades, the razor is designed to cut with the leading blade as you stroke. But when the first blade cuts the hair, it also easily pulls that hair out of the skin. The trick is to pull lightly, but not enough to cause discomfort.

The following blades are then designed to follow closely, repeating the process. So the first blade pulls and cuts, but before the hair returns to the skin, the second razor blade cuts it even shorter because the first blade pulled the hair farther away from the skin.

Subsequent blades repeat the process, cutting the hair shorter and shorter.

Second, multiple blades are designed to give you a smoother shave with fewer nicks and cuts, making them more comfortable. That’s because more blades keep your skin tighter.

Imagine you are standing on an exercise mat. If you look down, you can see your feet being pressed into the mat, creating a bulge in the middle. The same principle applies to shaving.

We all know that the flatter a surface, the easier it is to shave. It is much easier to shave along the cheek and in front of the ear than to shave the chin. When you hold the razor to your face, the blades and head put pressure on your skin as if you were standing on an exercise mat.

With more blades (and a larger head), that pressure is distributed over more points, smoothing skin and making it easier to shave with fewer scrapes and cuts.

How does the theory translate to the real world?

While the theory behind more blades sounds reasonable, how does it actually stack up with your everyday shave? Is there a noticeable difference in the comfort and closeness of your shave with more blades?

For most people there will be a difference with more blades, but the gain from each additional blade is less noticeable.

So if you shaved with a single blade razor and then switched to a three blade razor like the Gillette Mach 3, the difference would be noticeable. There’s a reason the Mach 3 was first introduced more than 20 years ago and is still popular today.

From there you might still notice a difference as you increase the blades, say from three blades to five blades, but the gain in comfort and closeness will be much less drastic. So if you’re already happy with a three-blade razor, you’re unlikely to be blown away by a five-blade one.

Beyond five blades there will be little or no difference as additional blades are added. So a six or seven blade razor like the Dorco Pace 6 Pro may give a marginally better shave, but we doubt most people will notice the difference. In our testing, we certainly find that the results aren’t much different than using a razor with fewer blades.

Bottom Line: More blades on a cartridge head does result in a better shave, but the difference is only noticeable up to a point. Beyond five blades, you probably won’t notice a difference in your shave.

Hi folks , I have the absolute pleasure to share my Naked Armor Ultimate Wet Shaving Kit ! This package arrived beautifully wrapped in a large box and when I opened it I was in sheer delight. So let’s start with the holdall, it has a nice leather look and sturdy fabric construction with plenty of storage space for your shaving essentials. It has a very classic look that takes me back to days gone by where quality looked the part. The Scuttle is a beautiful black chunky ceramic affair with ridges and grooves to hold the soap in place and allow you to whip up a sensational lather, and in a stylish, masculine black ceramic finish it looks fantastic. The stand is powerful! Not a flimsy piece of cheap junk like the cheap ones seen from online retailers in the past!! The shaving set itself is presented in a classy wooden case and on opening you will find a really great tin of shaving soap which smells fantastic along with a lovely quality leather strap and tin of compound paste along with the essential ingredient, the Solomon razor. This blade has a great feel and is crafted in a beautiful wooden handle with brass edges and accents. Opening it presented me with a raised and highly polished straight razor with a concave ground edge that, as I expected, was actually “razor sharp”. I quickly went about my first shave and found that it glided smoothly and gracefully over my stubble and, after a few gentle strokes, left my skin smooth with no bumps. Finally happy with my trim and neck shave, I proceeded to apply post shave balm, something I was skeptical about!! I was very surprised to find that my skepticism was completely unfounded, and it added a long-lasting, supple, soft, smooth finish that the lady in my life definitely enjoyed. In my honest opinion the entire set is perfect as a treat for yourself so that your grooming reaches a top notch level, but it is also something I think any man of worth would be more than happy to give as a gift to obtain !!! Once again Naked Armor you never fail to give me something that is 100% a pleasure to use and own!! This was a 10 out of 10 experience and I would highly recommend it to anyone looking to up their game (a video link to a shaving demo is attached for those who would like to see this great product in action). Thank you guys!