Mazda 3 2005 Cigarette Lighter Fuse? All Answers

Jerry works with some of the companies we write about. However, our content is written and reviewed by an independent team of editors and licensed insurance agents and is never influenced by our partnerships. Learn more about how we make money, view our editorial standards, refer to our data methodology, or view a list of our partners

Although they’re called “lighters,” smoking in a car isn’t the most common use of a lighter. Most people use their vehicle’s cigarette lighter sockets as extra outlets to charge devices such as cell phones, laptops and navigation systems.

So if your cigarette lighter fuse has gone bad you will still want to fix it or get a replacement fuse.

Here are some methods of car insurance comparison shopping app Jerry to fix a cigarette lighter socket in your car.

Let Jerry Find Your Price In Just 45 Seconds No Spam No Long Forms No Fees Find Insurance Savings (100% Free)

Remove foreign objects to repair cigarette lighter socket

A cigarette lighter in a car is a 12-volt outlet that can carry power to devices. When a 12 volt DC accessory is plugged into the outlet, it creates a path for the current to flow.

However, this path can be disrupted if something foreign, such as food crumbs, pebbles, or dirt, gets inside the plug. This is particularly common with lighters that are oriented vertically, as objects can easily fall off and get caught in the plug.

Therefore, the first step in troubleshooting a broken cigarette lighter socket is to make sure there is nothing foreign in the outlet blocking an electrical connection. Once those are removed, try plugging something into the outlet to see if it works.

Look for a blown fuse

Car fuses blow when more current is drawn into a circuit than the fuse (and wiring) can handle. Fuses can blow for many reasons, from an incompatible device plugged into the outlet to faulty wiring.

Whatever the cause, you should check that the fuse hasn’t blown.

Consult your owner’s manual to find the fuse responsible for your cigarette lighter.

Use the fuse picking tool included in the fuse box (or your fingers) to pull out the fuse. If the metal on the fuse looks cracked or burned, it must be replaced.

Purchase a new fuse of the same amperage from your local dealer or auto parts store and replace the blown fuse. After installation, try the cigarette lighter again.

Test and replace the outlet

If you have a multimeter handy, test the cigarette lighter socket to see if there is current. Before performing a test, turn the ignition switch in the car to the on position, as many cigarette lighters will not work with the key removed.

Make sure the multimeter tool is set to DC voltage. Connect the red wire to the red jack marked ‘V’ and the black wire to the black jack marked ‘COM’. Hold the metal probed end of the red wire against the metal circle at the bottom of the cigarette lighter socket, and then touch the probed end of the black wire on the side of the socket.

With both probes touching the corresponding parts of the cigarette lighter socket, read the voltage on the multimeter. If the reading is well below 12 volts, the outlet is likely the culprit for the lighter issue and needs to be replaced.

Seek the help of a professional to swap out the socket and your cigarette lighter will be charging your phone again in no time.

Make sure the ignition is off and other switches are off.

Use the fuse puller to pull the fuse straight out of the fuse block in the engine compartment.

Check the fuse and replace if blown.

Install a new fuse of the same amperage and make sure it is tight. If it’s not secure, have a professional install it. We recommend an authorized Mazda workshop.

If you don’t have spare fuses, borrow one of the same rating from a circuit that is not essential to vehicle operation, such as: B. the AUDIO or OUTLET circuit.

access denied

Your access to the NCBI website at www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov has been suspended due to possible misuse/abuse of your website. This is not an indication of a security issue such as a virus or attack. It could be something as simple as a script running away or learning how to make better use of e-utilities http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK25497/ to work more efficiently so that your work this does not affect the ability of other researchers to also use our website. To restore access and understand how you can better interact with our site to avoid this in the future, ask your system administrator to contact [email protected].

To avoid damage to the vehicle, do not modify the system or install any additional devices on the immobilizer and anti-theft alarm systems or on the vehicle.

All cigarette lighter sockets are also 12V sockets, meaning you should be able to plug a cigarette lighter inverter, cell charger or other 12V DC accessory into any cigarette lighter socket in any vehicle and it will work just fine.

If a cigarette lighter has stopped working or appears to be malfunctioning, there are a few things that can go wrong:

An obstruction in the socket – This most commonly happens when the cigarette lighter socket is installed vertically in a center console, as this orientation makes it very easy for small objects to fall into the socket. Non-conductive obstacles prevent chargers from making contact, while conductive objects such as coins can burn out the circuit.

This is most common when the cigarette lighter socket is installed vertically in a center console, as this orientation makes it very easy for small objects to fall into the socket. Non-conductive obstacles prevent chargers from making contact, while conductive objects such as coins can burn out the circuit. Cigarette lighter socket burned out – It just means there is no power going to the outlet at all. The fuse could be blown, or there could be another problem with the wiring.

It just means no power is getting to the outlet at all. The fuse could be blown, or there could be another problem with the wiring. The charger itself is bad – chargers go bad so you need to rule that out. The electronics in the charger could be faulty, the plug that fits into your device could be faulty, or the springs in the plug that fits into the cigarette lighter socket could be worn out.

How to fix a cigarette lighter that doesn’t work

To get your cigarette lighter working again, you must check and rule out any possible problem. Some of these steps are very simple and require no special equipment, but fully performing this type of diagnostic requires a test light or voltmeter.

Here are the basic steps to follow when your cigarette lighter has stopped working:

Look for foreign objects in the cigarette lighter – If you find something in the cigarette lighter, such as food, small toys or coins, carefully remove it. Do not insert metal objects such as a screwdriver or tweezers into the socket. Check the outlet for power and ground – This will require a test light or voltmeter. If you have these tools and know how to use them, check for power at the center pin in the cigarette lighter socket and at the ground inside the barrel. If you can’t find power, check the fuses. If you can’t find power or ground, check the connections that go into the cigarette lighter socket. Try plugging in another device – If you don’t have a test light or voltmeter, find another 12v charger or device. It’s important to make sure the device actually works, so you might want to borrow something from a friend or family member that they use regularly. If you plug it in and it doesn’t work, there’s probably no power at the outlet. Try plugging in the cigarette lighter – If you still have the cigarette lighter that came with your car, plug it in and activate it by pressing in firmly. If it pops out and the coils are red hot, your outlet is fine. If it’s not heating, your outlet isn’t getting power. Try plugging your charger into a different outlet – If your vehicle has additional accessory outlets, check if your charger works there. If not, try your charger in a different vehicle. If it doesn’t work on the other outlets, your charger may be defective.

Check for foreign objects

In a situation where nothing you plug into a 12V accessory outlet will work, the first thing you should do is check for obstructions in the outlet. The easiest way to do this is to take a flashlight and physically look into the outlet.

wire of life.

One of the most common causes of cigarette lighter and 12V accessory socket problems is accidentally dropping a coin into the socket. This can short out the outlet and blow the fuse, but it can also cause accessory plugs to stop making contact.

Dropping non-metallic objects into a cigarette lighter or 12V accessory socket will not cause a short or blown fuse. However, the foreign object can still prevent an accessory connector from making electrical contact. That means the circuit is still hot when you reach inside to remove the instruction. So be careful not to accidentally short circuit it.

Check for electricity

If there are no obstacles in the outlet, you can proceed in one of three ways. The easiest way is to just plug in the cigarette lighter if you have one. If the lighter gets hot and pops out, the outlet has power. You can also use a test lamp to check for power or examine the fuse panel to see if the cigarette lighter fuse is blown.

If your 12V outlet is actually an accessory outlet and not a cigarette lighter outlet, you won’t be able to test it with the cigarette lighter. In this case you will need to use a test lamp or multimeter to actually check the power supply.

If the fuse hasn’t blown and the outlet has power, there may be a problem with the outlet or accessory plug you’re trying to use. Cigarette lighter and 12V accessory sockets are designed with a slightly looser tolerance, and the slack is taken up by spring-loaded contacts, but if there’s no contact, your accessory won’t be powered.

Dealing with a blown cigarette lighter fuse

In many cases you will find that the cigarette lighter fuse has blown and this could come from various problems. If you found a coin in the socket, that’s probably the end. If you didn’t do this, you may have a short elsewhere, or you may have something connected, e.g. B. a cigarette lighter inverter that simply draws more current than the circuit can handle.

Cigarette lighter circuits are often fused at 10 or 15 amps, which is generally not much. So unless your cigarette lighter inverter is specifically designed to keep current demands below this level, plugging in any number of electronics could theoretically blow your fuse and prevent the inverter from working.

The easiest way to proceed from there is to replace the cigarette lighter or 12v accessory socket fuse and see what happens. If it burns out right away, you’re dealing with a short somewhere in the circuit. If you plug in the cigarette lighter and the fuse blows, then that’s probably the problem. If initially everything is fine, but when you connect the inverter, the fuse blows, then the inverter is probably to blame.

In any case, the inherent limitations of cigarette lighter inverters mean you may be better off with a different inverter, either wired directly to the battery or to the fuse panel. For more information on how to do this, see our article on estimating inverter requirements.

A frequently asked question is “Can I replace my 15A breaker with a 20A breaker?” My smaller circuit breaker keeps tripping!”

The answer: It is possible but not advisable without an electrician assessing the situation.

You should never simply upgrade from a 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker just because the current one trips. Otherwise, you can burn your house down with an electric fire.

To understand why this is so dangerous, you need to know what the circuit breaker is for.

Once we’ve explained that, let’s show you what causes this tripping problem.

Understand those of your circuit breaker

All electrical circuits in your home are designed for a specific current flow (amps). When too many amperes flow through a circuit, the wires overheat and can set surrounding materials (like insulation) on fire.

Luckily, your circuit breaker detects when too much current is flowing and “trips” (breaks the circuit).

For example, let’s say you have a circuit with wiring rated for 15 amps. A 15A circuit breaker is installed to protect all wiring in this circuit. And when more than 15 amps flow through the circuit, the breaker trips.

The tripping breaker isn’t the problem, it’s a sign that you have a problem somewhere that could be causing your wires to overheat and start a fire.

Now let’s say you’ve decided to upgrade that 15 amp circuit breaker to a 20 amp circuit breaker. You now have a circuit breaker that will allow up to 20 amps of current on cables that are only rated safe up to 15 amps.

Do you see the problem? You create a fire hazard!

Sure, the breaker will be less likely to trip. But it comes at the cost of damaging your home and endangering your family.

That’s not a compromise you want to make.

So if a larger breaker doesn’t solve the tripping problem, what will? Well, it depends on what triggers the breaker. So let’s look at the…

Causes of a tripping circuit breaker

A circuit breaker typically trips due to one of the following issues:

Overloaded circuit

Short circuit current takes a short circuit in the circuit, jumps over the device and causes the cable to overheat.

Current takes a short circuit in the circuit, skipping the device and causing the cable to overheat. Old, Damaged Circuit Breaker – The breaker itself is the problem and will trip no matter what you do.

Here’s a bad breaker we found using thermal imaging cameras.

To prevent the circuit breaker from tripping, you need to fix the underlying problem. For more information, see our article Why does my circuit breaker keep tripping?.

Important: Don’t just reset the switch over and over again! Eventually the circuit breaker will fail and not protect your circuit from damage.

If you need help figuring out what is causing your circuit breaker to trip, consult a professional electrician.

Need an Electrician in Phoenix, AZ?

If your breaker keeps tripping and you live in the greater Phoenix area, contact George Brazil Electricians for help.

Continue reading:

Not to be confused with the similar looking but incompatible ISO 4165 sockets/plugs (also known as ‘Hella’, ‘Powerlet’ or ‘Merit’) used on motorcycles (particularly BMW), caravanning etc.

Additional socket for front passenger

Metal and plastic cigarette lighter sockets

A car auxiliary socket (also known as a car cigarette lighter or auxiliary socket[1]) in a car was originally designed to power an electrically heated cigarette lighter socket[1] but has become the de facto standard DC connection for the Powers portable accessories used in or near a car directly from the vehicle’s electrical system. These include cell phone chargers, fans, portable refrigerators, electric air pumps, and inverters.[1]

Most vehicles have at least one car socket. Some vehicles may have more power outlets: usually one for the front passengers, one for the rear passengers, and one for the trunk.

The outlet voltage is typically around 12VDC and can rise to between 13.5V and 15V when the engine is running.

The 12V circuit is protected by an automotive fuse, which is often rated at 10 to 20 amps, which translates to 120 to 240 watts. Large devices such as hair dryers or toasters consume too much electricity to be fed from an auxiliary socket. If wired directly rather than through the ignition, a dead car battery can be recharged from an external power source via the outlet, which is more convenient, albeit slower, than flows assisted by electrical clamps on the car battery.[2]

history [edit]

The electric cigarette lighter was invented and patented by the Swiss-Austrian inventor Friedrich Wilhelm Schindler in the early 1880s.[3] By the 1890s these tools were sold as electric cigar lighters (cigar lighters) and later as cigar lighters in the major German stock catalogues. Probably in the 1920s they were renamed “cigarette lighters” as cigarettes overtook cigars in sales.

In 1921, Morris issued U.S. Patent 1,376,154 for a so-called “wireless” or “cordless” lighter having a detachable element. The igniter was heated in the socket and then manually removed for use after an appropriate time interval.[4]

In the United States, lighters appeared as standard equipment in automobiles in 1925–1926.

In 1928, the Connecticut Automotive Specialty Company (Casco) of Bridgeport patented their version of an automotive cigarette lighter that used a cord and reel. In roller lighters, the ignition unit was connected to a power source by a cord wound on a spring drum so that the ignition unit and cord could be unplugged and used to light a cigar or cigarette. When the detachable plug was returned to the socket, the wires were rolled back in. The circuit was completed by either pressing a button or removing the igniter from its socket.[4]

The modern “automatic” detachable V-coil automotive lighter was developed by Casco in 1956, [6] for which it received U.S. Patent 2,959,664, issued in 1960.

Technical design[ edit ]

The sockets and mating connectors are defined in the ANSI/SAE J563[7] specification. On the 12 volt systems, the center contact is the positive pole and the shell is the negative pole. Most cars connect the negative terminal to the frame of the vehicle (negative ground).

12 volt automotive connectors conform to an Underwriters Laboratories safety standard. UL2089 was developed to cover the requirements for portable adapters rated at 24VDC or less that are intended to be powered from a vehicle’s battery powered electrical system. Products covered by the standard include cable assemblies from a plug that mates with the standard car cigarette socket.

6 volt socket and cigarette lighter plug

Bushing ID: 21.34-21.46mm (median 21.4mm)

(Median) connector body diameter: 21.08–21.23 mm (median 21.155 mm)

12 volt cigarette lighter socket and plug, size A

Bushing ID: 20.93-21.01mm (median 20.97mm)

(Median) connector body diameter: 20.73–20.88 mm (median 20.805 mm)

(Median) Most commonly used in American automobiles

12 volt cigarette lighter socket and plug, size B

Container inner diameter: 21.41-21.51 mm (median 21.455 mm)

(Median) connector body diameter: 21.13–21.33 mm (median 21.18 mm)

(Median) Most commonly used in European cars, and sometimes as a second socket in American cars expressly for DC connections.

Plugs often include an LED indicator light to show power is connected. Optionally, the plug can be fitted with an internal fuse for electrical safety, typically rated at 10 amps or less. In some designs, the tip of the plug can be unscrewed to reveal a cylindrical glass fuse. other variants may use a blade fuse that inserts into the side or back of the plug.

Used[ edit ]

lighter [ edit ]

Car Cigarette Lighter, with brass colored heating element visible in front

The lighter is a metal or plastic cylinder containing a thin flat coil of nichrome metal strip through which a high current (about 10 amps) flows when the device is activated, usually by pressing it into the socket like a push button . When pushed in, the lighter is held against the force of a spring by a clip attached to a bimetallic strip.[8] The heating element glows hot orange in seconds, causing the bimetallic strip to flex and release the mechanism. The handle pops out, eliminating the need for the user to time the heating process. If the lighter is then immediately removed from the socket, it can light a cigarette, cigar or tinder.

A common feature of Italian cars in the 1960s-1970s, such as Alfa Romeos and Ferraris, is the Brico Pram cigarette lighter, which differs from traditional designs in that the lighter does not pop out to light a cigarette, although visually it resembles the traditional one Design. Instead, the center of the lighter features a tapered opening to allow the user to insert a cigarette until it touches the heating element, the rim of the handle is then pressed down to activate the lighter, the heating element then ignites the cigarette and disconnects the circuit with an audible ping once the desired temperature is reached like a traditional lighter. The advantage of such a design is safety, since the red-hot heating element cannot accidentally fall onto an occupant’s lap. Still, it takes away the ability to remove the lighter to use the outlet as a socket, and it also doesn’t allow lighting cigars because the opening isn’t big enough.

socket [ edit ]

A 12 volt cigarette lighter plug with a tip that can be unscrewed to replace an internal fuse

On newer cars, the socket has a plastic cover without the lighter heating element.[9] However, the socket has been repurposed and is still used to power consumer electronics in vehicles.[10] Often, for convenience, a vehicle may be equipped with multiple outlets, some in the rear passenger compartment of the vehicle or even in the charging area to power portable devices. These outlets usually have a plastic cap attached and are usually marked DC only as they are not designed to withstand the heat generated by an electric cigarette lighter.

Using cigarette lighter sockets to supply 12 volt DC power is an example of backwards compatibility to a de facto standard. As a power connector, the lighter jack is larger, more difficult to use, and less reliable than other DC connectors [citation needed]. Cigarette lighter sockets are widely used in many road vehicles and some boats. Corded portable cigarette lighter sockets and alligator clips for direct connection to car batteries are available for temporary use. One or more USB ports can also be provided in newer vehicles. In addition, in newer cars, the cigarette lighter output is so reliable that laptops can be charged without voltage problems.

Standardized 12 volt DC automotive connectors are defined in the United States by UL Standard 2089 related to vehicle battery adapters. This standard deals with plugs and cable sets that are used in cigarette lighter sockets. In Europe, 12 volt plugs and sockets are not specifically regulated and do not require CE marking approvals.

The plug is sometimes used to supply power to a vehicle to charge its battery, as it typically does not have a regulating circuit between the outlet and the car battery. For example, portable solar battery maintenance devices are commonly connected to a vehicle battery in this manner. Trickle chargers are also sometimes connected this way, eliminating the need to leave a vehicle’s hood open and eliminating the possibility of reverse polarity. Most cars today are equipped with a battery negative grounding system and therefore have a positive power distribution of +12V. In such a case, the center pin of a plug/socket is at +12V DC and the outer shell is at 0V If polarity is not a problem with a cigarette lighter socket, it is advisable to check for correct polarity matching when connecting other types of accessories.

On some models the cigar lighter socket does not receive power when the ignition key is removed and charging is not possible, although a fuse box modification may allow the continuous power output to be unlocked by allowing a parallel circuit from a continuously powered fuse slot via a ” Piggyback connection.[11]

Since the cigarette lighter socket was originally only designed to heat a cigarette lighter socket, repurposing these sockets as generic power connectors can cause many problems. In addition to the issues with partially compatible physical dimensions, the plugs can vibrate under normal riding conditions due to poor retention from the socket. There have also been reports of melted connector tips due to poor contact and heat generation from ohmic resistance.

A second problem is that the nominal “twelve volt” output in cars varies widely. The socket is connected directly to the car’s electrical system. The actual voltage, which corresponds to the voltage of the car battery, is approximately 12.5 volts at rest (less when cold), approximately 14.5 volts when the engine and alternator/generator are running (more when cold) and can briefly go up to drop a low 5-6 volts during engine cranking due to high transient battery drain.[12] When used, DC-DC converters typically compensate for small fluctuations, but without an independent, battery-powered, uninterruptible power supply, a reliable power supply may not be available.

In rare cases, more extreme cases of voltage fluctuations can occur if the car battery is disconnected while the engine is running or if the car is jump-started. If the battery is disconnected with the engine running, its voltage smoothing effect (similar to capacitors) is not available and a load shedding transient can produce very high voltages as the onboard voltage regulator has been controlling the alternator field current to charge the battery and even though they are trying to reduce the field current to keep the output voltage constant, the field winding is highly inductive and it takes several hundred milliseconds to adjust the current to its new value, during which time the alternator output voltage exceeds its intended value. The load drop can also destroy the diodes in the alternator by exceeding their breakdown voltage. A car that is jump-started from a truck may be exposed to a 24V electrical system used in some vehicles.[13] Also, “dual battery jump starts” are performed by some tow truck drivers in cold climates.[14]

Devices that are intended to be powered from the outlet must allow for intermittent contact and voltages outside of the 12V DC rating, e.g. B. Maximum voltage 9-16V continuously or maximum voltage of 20V for 1 hour, 24V for 1 minute. and 40 V for 400 ms.[15] An example of the nominal tolerance of protection components is +50 to -60 V DC.[16] Ruggedized equipment must withstand temperatures between -40 and +85 °C (-40 and 185 °F) and potentially high humidity and water condensation.

See also[edit]

Notes [edit]

The 12V outlet, also known as a car cigarette lighter or 12V auxiliary outlet, is the primary method used to power portable electronics in cars, trucks, recreational vehicles, boats, and in a few other contexts. While these sockets were originally designed to heat cigarette lighter sockets, they quickly gained popularity as the de facto car socket.

Today it’s possible to power anything from a state-of-the-art phone or tablet to a tire compressor using the exact same outlet that used to be used only as a car cigarette lighter.

Some vehicles are fitted with power strips for the express purpose of powering multiple accessories, although it is uncommon for more than one to accept a cigarette lighter socket.

Accordingly, the specifications for these outlets contained in ANSI/SAE J563 include two variants: one that will work with cigarette lighters and one that will not. If you’ve ever tried to plug a cigarette lighter into a cigarette lighter socket only to have it fall right out, that’s why.

The history of the power of automotive accessories

When the first automobiles hit the streets, the idea of ​​an on-board network did not yet exist. In fact, the first cars contained no electrical systems at all. These cars had engines that relied on magnetos to create a spark, just like your lawnmower probably does today, so no battery was required. If at all, the lighting was provided by gas or kerosene lamps, so that no electricity was required there either.

When automotive electrical systems finally arrived, they used DC generators. Unlike modern alternators, these generators do not require a voltage input to function. They were belt driven like modern alternators and provided the direct current necessary to operate accessories such as lights.

The next innovation was the addition of lead-acid batteries to store electricity and provide a source when the engine was not running. With this addition, it suddenly became possible to add other accessories that we now take for granted, such as: B. electric starters.

Although early electrical systems containing both a DC generator and a lead-acid battery made electrical accessories technically possible, the highly variable voltage produced by these generators caused problems. Mechanical devices were used to regulate voltage, but modern automotive electrics didn’t really get off the ground until the introduction of alternators.

Unlike generators, the alternators in modern cars and trucks produce alternating current that is converted to direct current to charge the battery and provide accessory power. Although this type of electrical system still doesn’t provide a completely consistent voltage, the output voltage remains relatively constant no matter how fast the alternator is spinning, which was a key factor in the rise of the car cigarette lighter as the de facto source of DC power to be phased out.

The Smoking Gun

Although since the invention of automotive electrical systems, people have used their electrical systems to power accessories, accessories have had to be connected manually. The appearance of a 12V car socket was almost accidental as it was co-opted for a completely different original purpose.

Tom Blaha / Creative Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0

Cigarette lighters, along with lights and radios, were among the first accessories to take advantage of early automotive electrical systems, and began appearing as OEM options around 1925.

These early cigarette lighters used a “coil and reel” system, but it was the so-called “wireless” cigarette lighter that eventually became the de facto car and marine power outlet.

These “wireless” car cigarette lighters consist of two parts: a cylindrical socket, usually found in a car’s dashboard, and a detachable plug. The socket is connected to power and ground, and the plug contains a coiled bimetallic strip.

When the plug is inserted into the socket, the coiled strip completes an electrical circuit and then becomes red-hot. When the plug is removed from the socket, the glowing coil can be used to light a cigar or cigarette.

Introduction of the 12V socket

Though not originally intended to power accessories, car lighters presented an opportunity that was just too good to pass up. Because the actual lighter part could be removed once the coil-and-reel version was no longer in use, the socket itself provided easy access to power and ground.

This easy access to power and ground enabled the development of a power plug that could be plugged in and removed without having to permanently connect an accessory to a car’s electrical system.

The ANSI/SAE J563 specification was developed to ensure compatibility between cigarette lighter sockets and 12V power plugs from different manufacturers. According to the specification, the barrel portion of a 12V socket must be connected to the battery negative terminal, which is ground in most vehicle systems, while the center contact point is connected to the battery positive terminal.

With the advent of the ANSI/SAW standard, third parties were able to design and introduce a huge variety of devices, from tire pumps to hair dryers designed to draw power from cigarette lighter sockets.

Problems using a car 12V socket

Because car cigarette lighters were not originally intended to be used as accessory sockets, there are some inherent issues with using them in this capacity. Accordingly, devices designed to use a 12V outlet must be able to circumvent these shortcomings.

The biggest issue with using a car cigarette lighter socket as a 12v socket is the internal diameter and depth of the socket itself. As there are some variations in the size of these sockets, sometimes referred to as cans, 12v power plugs have them normally spring-loaded contacts.

By using spring-loaded contacts instead of solid contacts, 12V power plugs are able to maintain electrical contact within a fairly generous tolerance range. However, this also means that this type of plug can lose electrical contact from time to time.

Tom Blaha / Creative Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0

Another problem with using a 12V car socket is related to how the electrical systems of motor vehicles work. Although modern alternators are capable of maintaining a relatively steady output voltage, normal operation allows for a range of output voltages.

With this in mind, all automotive electrical accessories must be able to operate on approximately 9-14V DC. In many cases, a built-in DC-to-DC converter is used to convert the variable input voltage to a constant output voltage on the fly.

Could the car cigarette lighter be replaced?

Although smoking isn’t as popular as it used to be, in-car cigarette lighters aren’t likely to go away any time soon. Some cars over the years have shipped without a cigarette lighter, and others have fitted an accessory socket with a dummy plug instead of a lighter, but the idea of ​​omitting the cigarette lighter in the car altogether has still not caught on.

The problem is that even if people don’t use car cigarette lighters for the purpose they were originally designed for, far too many portable devices rely on the technology as a de facto power source to ditch them altogether.

USB may prove to be an acceptable replacement as so many portable devices use USB for data and power. It’s conceivable that USB ports could eventually overtake cigarette lighters and accessory sockets in cars, but it’s so easy to just plug a USB charger into a car cigarette lighter that automakers might hesitate to fully embrace that sort of change.