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Table of Contents
Why is oil coming out of my lower unit?
So, why exactly is oil leaking from lower unit weep hole of your boat? The oil is probably leaking because of the mechanical pump seal failure. Another reason might be bung failure. Then leak in the input shaft can also lead to this problem.
How much oil does a Mercruiser lower unit hold?
The Alpha One holds about 2 quarts of Mercruiser Premium Gear Lube. More if you have a remote Drive Lube Reservoir. We like to get 3 quarts of Mercruiser Premium Gear Lube and we use part of the first quart to flush through the drive to clean out some of the older lube.
What kind of oil goes in a Mercruiser lower unit?
You can use any brand of lubricant that has a grade designation of API GL5 SAE 80 or 90 weight. Make sure you do not mix different oil brands or weights. into the BOTTOM drain hole. Then slowly squeeze the bottle to force the oil into the lower unit.
Can I use regular gear oil in my lower unit?
So, can you use any old gear lube in your marine lower unit? If you want the best protection possible, and want your lower unit to last as long as your boat, then the answer is no. Consult your engine’s manual and look for the proper marine gear lube for your application.
Merc 3.0, Alpha One lower unit oil leak
Unlike automotive gear oil, marine gear oil is formulated to emulsify water. This serves two purposes:
It provides even lubrication and keeps water away from moving parts
Lower units contain hypoid gears (think ring and pinion, like a car differential) so they require high pressure additives. Which marine gear oil you choose depends on the size of your marine engine. A small outboard uses a “simpler” formula than a larger, high-performance outboard, which has much larger gears and is subjected to much higher loads.
So can you use any old gear oil in your hull? If you want the best possible protection and you want your bottom to last as long as your boat, then the answer is no. Consult your engine manual and find the right marine gear oil for your application.
How often should I change my lower unit oil?
Most sterndrive and outboard manufacturers advise you to change the gearcase oil in your lower unit every 100 hours or once a year (whichever comes first). Clean oil is critical for protecting the heavily loaded gears in your lower unit and preventing expensive damage.
Merc 3.0, Alpha One lower unit oil leak
Most sterndrive and outboard manufacturers recommend that you change the gear oil in your reduction gear every 100 hours or once a year (whichever comes first). Clean oil is critical to protecting the heavily used gears in your reducer and avoiding costly damage. Maintaining the lower unit is a simple job that you can easily do yourself.
What you need to change your lower unit oil
West Marine Synthetic Blend Lower Unit Gear Lube
A large straight blade screwdriver for the lower unit drain and bleeder screws
Replacement o-rings/washers for lower unit drain and bleed plugs
Lubricant for the lower unit of the appropriate type
Lower Unit Quart Pump & Lube Tube with an adapter fitting that fits your engine
Collecting pan for the used oil of the lower unit
Container for transporting used lower unit oil to a hazardous materials recycling center
Clean rags and disposable gloves
Choosing the right oil for the lower unit
Your owner’s manual recommends the manufacturer’s proprietary lower unit lubricant, and that’s always a safe bet. We can recommend our West Marine and Pure Oceans branded Lower Unit Lubricants, which meet all engine manufacturer specifications and warranty requirements. Older Johnson/Evinrude (1962-72) electric shift outboards require Premium Type C Lube.
Changing the lower unit oil
The lower drain/fill plug is usually located on the starboard side of the lower unit, under the “ball” portion of the lower unit casing. Locate your drain/fill plug and adjust the trim/pitch of your outboard or sterndrive so that this plug is in the lowest position to thoroughly drain the used oil.
Use your large screwdriver to remove the bottom drain plug screw. This is often easier said than done, because the steel screw in an aluminum housing can get stuck due to contact corrosion. If yours is stuck, try soaking the connector in penetrating oil like WD-40 and letting it sit overnight. You can also pick up a manual impact wrench (less than $10 at Harbor Freight) that easily twists the plug when hit with a hammer. Finally, you can try using heat from a heat gun. Be patient and persistent, but don’t try to remove the slot in the connector head as drilling out the connector will be a major headache.
With the drain plug loose and the drain pan in place, keep pressure on the plug to prevent it from falling into the pan and getting covered with oil. Snap it away when the oil slowly begins to drip out. Then remove the upper vent plug screw, which is usually located above the cavitation plate on the starboard side of the lower unit, and the oil will quickly flow out of the drain hole. Allow sufficient time for the oil to drain completely, ideally an hour or more.
The bottom drain plug often has a magnetic tip. Fine metal shavings stuck there are normal, but you don’t want to see “chunks of metal.” Check the oil in the pan. Again, you may see metal shavings shimmering in the oil, which is normal. However, milky white or off-white oil indicates water has contaminated the gear case and gray oil indicates a defect in the gears or a bearing. Contact your mechanic if your lower unit shows any of the danger signs above. These must be repaired before the boat goes back into the water.
After the oil is completely drained, screw the oil pump adapter into the bottom drain hole, connect the quart pump you put on your quart of gear oil and fill the bottom unit. Continue pumping until oil comes out of the top hole of the bleed screw.
We recommend installing new o-rings/sealing washers on your drain and breather plugs and coating them with a small amount of marine grade non-metallic anti-seize for easier removal later. Remove any metal flakes from the top of both plugs and replace the upper bleed plug in the lower assembly. Next, while holding the bottom drain plug in your hand, remove the oil pump adapter fitting from the bottom drain hole. Quickly replace the screw so that only a little oil leaks out.
Now you can give the exterior of your lower unit a thorough wipe down to keep the oil out of the surrounding area. Then bottle the used oil and take it to the local recycling center.
A few more quick tasks:
Is gear oil and drive oil the same?
Gear oil differs from engine oil. While many motorists may assume SAE 90 gear oil is thicker than SAE 40 or 50 engine oil, their viscosities are the same, as this gear oil viscosity chart shows. One major difference between the two are in the additives they use.
Merc 3.0, Alpha One lower unit oil leak
Industrial machinery differentials, manual transmissions and gears often require protection from extreme temperatures and pressures to prevent wear, abrasion and other damage that leads to equipment failure. Protection from oxidation, thermal degradation, rust, copper corrosion and foam is also important.
What is the best lower unit oil?
| # | Product |
|---|---|
| 1 | Quicksilver 858064Q01 High Performance SAE 90 Gear Lube for Mercury Outboards and MerCruiser… |
| 2 | Slippery Pete – Lower Unit Gear Oil Pump for Standard Quart Bottles, Includes 3/8 inch Metal Swivel,… |
| 3 | STAR BRITE Synthetic Blend Lower Unit Gear Lube 80w 90w – 32 OZ (027232) |
Merc 3.0, Alpha One lower unit oil leak
Are you looking for the most reliable and efficient lower gear oil on the market? If the answer to the question is yes, then you are in luck because your luck has put you in the best possible place. We’re here to save you time and relieve you of the stress of sorting through a plethora of reviews.
Our recommendation of the 10 best gear oils for under gears in 2022
Best recommendations and buying guide for your lower unit gear oil
Before shopping for your favorite lower unit gear oil, there are a few factors to consider. These factors will ultimately help you decide which gear oil is best for your needs.
Do an internet research on all available gear oils for under gears on the market. This is useful for both online and retail/in-person purchases. When shopping on an online marketplace, try to find the most trusted online store. Usually, the online stores that have the most followers of the masses are the best.
These stores not only offer reliable products, but also provide buyers with a wide range of diversified products. Search the different types of lower unit gear oils available in the online store and find one to choose from.
Read people’s reviews on the online sites to understand the detailed and nuanced pros and cons of this particular lower unit gear oil. You can also use other people’s reviews to understand if a specific lower unit gear oil meets your needs.
Evaluating products online before purchasing the desired products in retail is also a widespread phenomenon.
As you do the crucial research on the lower gear oils available on the market, you may be asking yourself a few questions that will help you in your decision:
Is it worth buying lower gear oils?
What are the various pros and cons of buying lower unit gear oil?
What should you think about to buy the most efficient lower unit gear oil at the best price?
What are some of the brands of lower unit gear oil available on the market today? What’s in the future?
Is enough information available about what you want?
Why should I own one or many lower gear oils, even if the quality may not be the very best?
More advantages of buying lower unit gear oil on online marketplaces
Aside from some of the benefits mentioned above, there are certain other benefits that can be attributed to online stores:
Promotions
There are many promotional prices and discounts in online stores. In fact, online stores have more promotions than retail stores. Since these stores work with several dealers at the same time, a customer can avail a specific product at the best possible price.
reliability
Online marketplaces have come a long way since the beginning of the millennium. They have become a huge source of income for many important people in the world.
This seismic growth of the industry is due to the reliability and trustworthiness codes that online markets follow. As a result, consumers can almost guarantee that they will get the right products at the right time and at the right price.
Nuanced Market
There is rigidity in the items that can be sold in online stores. There is a wide variety and nuanced markets to help consumers find what they are looking for.
Sometimes you even come across something you didn’t know about before. The availability of alternative products is central to ensure online store dominance.
How to make sure you choose the right gear oil for the lower unit
If you are an early or new user, you may find it difficult to find the right gear oil for your lower unit. You may not be aware of certain facets of lower unit gear oil that you may have thought of. But we are here to help you with that! The following recommendations might be helpful in your hunt:
Price
Everyone has a budget and wants to make purchases that fit their budget. To make sure you get the best deal, surf as many markets as you can to see the price differences.
This will help you get an idea of the status of the market. Set your price range based on what you know.
brand
In the lower unit gear oil industry, brand loyalty is very high. As a result, consumers tend to choose the brand they have been associated with the longest. Well-known brands guarantee reliability.
Otherwise, the masses would not have bought products from well-known brands. Different brands have different characteristics. Choose a brand whose characteristics you feel most comfortable with.
Different brands have different visual characteristics. This also leads to people choosing different products.
customer consensus
If you are an inexperienced user, contact active users of gear oil for lower units. They can give you practical knowledge that they have acquired through the application. Sometimes you can get information out of people that you can’t find in mainstream media – it can be either good or bad information about the product.
User reviews are often very important in deciding which brand of lower unit gear oil to buy. You could end up having the final say in the purchase decision.
functionality
It is imperative that you familiarize yourself with the workings of your lower unit gear oil before purchasing. Admittedly, a lot of knowledge about the product is learned through use and experience. Since there are different types, try to choose the one that best suits your needs.
Finally
There is only so much we can tell you about buying your new best lower unit gear oil. However, we are confident that if you follow the recommendations given here, you will find something that best suits your needs.
Good luck with your new purchase!
How do I know if my lower unit is good?
Bad outboard lower units can give the operator shifting issues, and other signs will include water in the gear lube, metallic particles on the drain screw magnet, clunking sounds when shifted, or the loss of the ability to shift into gears.
Merc 3.0, Alpha One lower unit oil leak
With three different sections of the outboard motor, it is important to determine if something has gone wrong with the lower unit or one of the other sections.
Bad bottom outboard units can give the driver shifting problems, and other signs include water in the gear oil, metal particles on the drain plug magnet, rattling noise when shifting, or loss of the ability to shift into gears.
We’ll take a closer look at what the bottom unit means, how it works, signs that something is wrong, and some general outboard maintenance tips.
What is the bottom unit of an outboard motor?
The lower unit of the outboard motor is also known as the foot, gear case or gear box. It is the lower part that houses the gear case and propeller shaft that changes the direction the propeller turns.
To keep your outboard running at its best and give it the longest possible life, you need to take care of the bottom unit.
Maintaining the lower unit is as simple as keeping debris and fishing line clear of the stanchion and changing the oil regularly. We have a thorough in-depth article here on what the different colors of gear oil tell you when changing it.
How does a bottom unit work?
The lower unit is also referred to as the gearbox housing. It is the part of the outboard that receives the rotation and power from the engine’s powerhead to transmit it to the propeller and propeller shaft.
The propeller spins, which allows your boat to move either forward or backward through the water.
If any part of the lower unit malfunctions or fails, you could be stranded in the water. Because of this, it is important to understand how each part works and how to maintain it.
Drive shaft: operation & maintenance
The driveshaft is responsible for converting the rotary power from the engine to the gearbox.
You don’t have to do much maintenance on the driveshaft as long as the bottom unit is serviced.
Water pump: operation and maintenance
The water pump pumps water through the engine to cool it. This part uses an impeller attached to the driveshaft that uses rotation as power.
When the drive shaft rotates, the impeller in the water pump rotates. The movement of the blade draws water from underneath the water pump housing and forces it into the engine.
As soon as the water flows through the motor, it is ejected back to its point of origin.
If the water pump fails, the engine will overheat. If not repaired, it can lead to worn pistons or cylinders and eventual engine seizure.
To service the water pump you want to disassemble and inspect it. Replace the impeller every 300 hours or every two years. You may also need to replace the bottom plate, cartridge, o-rings and gaskets when changing impellers.
Selector shaft: operation & maintenance
The shift shaft is responsible for turning the outboard on or off by working with the gearbox. It is also used to decide which direction the propeller shaft needs to turn to ensure the boat moves backwards or forwards.
You do not need to service the shifter shaft in any way as it should last as long as your outboard.
Transmission: Operation & Maintenance
The gearbox or gearbox uses the vertical torque coming from the driveshaft and converts it to horizontal torque for the propeller shaft and propeller.
It also helps determine which direction the propeller and propeller shaft should rotate.
The driveshaft comes into the gearbox, but it ends when it reaches the pinion. This pinion meshes with both forward and reverse gears.
When the driveshaft rotates, the pinion also rotates, which allows the gears to rotate.
There is also a dog clutch that sits between the gears and is attached to a selector shaft. The cardan shaft is also attached to this dog clutch.
Each time this shift shaft is placed in neutral, the clutch does not engage the gears and keeps the boat motionless.
When the shift shaft is in forward gear, the dog clutch is engaged, causing the propshaft and dog clutch to rotate in a specific direction. The opposite occurs when the shift shaft is in reverse, which allows it to move in the opposite direction.
Both gears and the propeller shaft are mounted with bearings that allow everything to spin freely yet are journaled in the gear case.
Over time, the clutch teeth will wear out, requiring you to replace them. When it’s time for a replacement, you may hear a grinding noise when shifting gears.
You can prevent premature clutch wear by shifting at lower speeds. You also want to maintain the rigging and make sure none of the shifter cables or throttle cables are stretched.
In addition, the shims and the pinion wear out. When this occurs, the power transfer between the correct shaft and the drive shaft is reduced, making the outboard feel like it has lost power.
In addition, the gearbox can become noisy or the gears can rattle when they become loose.
Oil seals: operation and maintenance
The oil must remain in the gearbox with the help of O-rings and seals. These also prevent water from entering the gear case.
The seals on the bottom assembly of your outboard include:
Shift oil seal and shift shaft plate O-ring
Oil seal drive shaft
Transmission bearing housing O-rings
Propeller shaft oil seal
The propeller shaft oil seal is left exposed, making it more susceptible to damage. Because of this, you should inspect the gasket frequently and replace it at the first sign of leakage or wear.
The other o-rings and seals are not easy to see. However, you can tell when one of the internal parts is failing because the water will mix with the transmission oil, leaving a gray sludge. In this case, change the gear oil.
Also, you should change this lubricant after 100 hours of use on most outboards. If you notice that water has mixed, it’s time to replace the failed o-ring or seal. You can determine which seal is leaking with a so-called pressure test.
How do I know if my outboard motor base is defective?
Many things can happen when you have a bad outboard sub unit, but here are the most common symptoms.
water in the gear oil
As mentioned earlier, once water mixes with the transmission oil, you know you have a problem. If you change the lube, you can look for signs of trouble.
This is why it is so important to change the transmission oil every 100 hours. This way you can identify the problem and fix the leak.
Before the water in the gear oil destroys the lower unit.
Metal contamination on the gear case drain plug magnet
There should never be more than 3/4″ metal particles on your bottom transmission drain plug magnet. When examining the magnet, crush all the impurities in your hands.
If it turns into a gray powder, you can ignore it completely. Otherwise, if you feel metal doing this, you should be concerned. A small amount of metal will almost always be on the magnet.
It’s only when the accumulation of metal becomes a massive amount that you need to worry and start the process of finding out what’s wrong with the bottom unit.
Clinking noises
If you start hearing a constant clanking noise, it could be the pinion or gears. When a tooth is lost, it becomes that annoying noise. And at the right RPM, it will get stuck between the gears and blow up the lower unit!
How do you idle a lower unit?
If you removed and bumped the lower unit, you may need to re-adjust neutral if the shift linkage is misaligned.
In most cases, all you have to do is rotate the splined shaft to realign the shifter. Grab it with pliers and twist until you feel it snap back into neutral.
How to change your lower unit oil
One of the most important maintenance tasks for your outboard lower section is changing the oil. Before you begin, you should read the owner’s manual for the appropriate weight and type of gear oil to use.
The transmission oil should be changed every 100 hours of operation or once a year.
Equipment you will need:
flathead screwdriver
oil pan
Cardboard box to catch drips
Lower unit oil pump
liters of gear oil
Step #1: Position the Motor
Place the outboard in a vertical position. The propeller shaft should remain parallel to the ground. If the drain seals are on the back of the bottom unit.
If they are on the underside of the nose of the gearbox housing. Then you want to tilt the engine or lower unit up to put the drain plug in the lowest position on the gear case.
Place the cardboard box on the floor under the motor. Place the oil pan under the support.
Step #2: Remove the drain plug
Use your screwdriver to remove the drain plug. On some outboards, you may need an impact wrench, which reduces the risk of stripping threads.
The bottom unit plugs are magnetic, so you might see some metal shavings that indicate wear. If you only see a few, don’t worry, but an excessive amount should be a cause for concern.
Step #3: Remove the top connector
By removing this plug you will bleed the lower unit and allow the oil to drain faster. On some outboards you may find two of these connectors, so both will need to be removed.
Do not remove this plug before removing the lower drain plug or you will create a significant mess.
Step #4: Check the oil and plugs
What color should the lower unit gear oil be? Your oil should never be milky, but look dark. If you notice it’s milky, you probably have water contamination caused by a leaky seal or debris.
Don’t just change the oil, fix the problem first. Otherwise, water will continue to seep into the oil, resulting in gear damage.
Also check the gaskets on the oil plugs. When they’re worn out or frayed, it’s time to replace them. If your gasket separates from the plug and gets stuck in the hole, it’s time to replace the entire plug.
Step #5: Refill the lower unit
Screw the lower unit pump tip into the lower plug hole. Keep the top plugs out during this time.
Pump carefully to prevent air from entering the gear case. When oil starts dripping from the upper vent, you know the lower unit is full. stop pumping
Step #6: Install the top vent plugs
Rethread your top vent plug or plug and wipe them off.
Step #7: Install the bottom drain plug
When you remove the fuel nozzle, you quickly want to put the bottom drain plug back in place.
Tighten this connector according to the instruction manual. It will likely require a specific torque.
Wipe it down and check for leaks.
Tilt the engine up to check for oil leaks from these plugs. If there has been an oil spill near you, you need to clean it up. Also, be sure to dispose of the oil properly.
Lower outboard unit conversion cost
If you have a bad outboard sub unit, you have several options. You can rebuild the device or buy a new one.
If you are a mechanic it would cost you a lot less money to rebuild the bottom unit than it would to buy a new one. However, this will take more time than just making a purchase.
You have to weigh up what is better in your situation. Look up the price of a new outboard subassembly and compare that to the price of parts for a rebuild.
Hopefully this article will help you troubleshoot lower outboard unit issues. We want to help you keep your boat running smoothly and efficiently. You can also find more tips and instructions on our YouTube channel.
We also curate many blog articles to give you the boating information you need to enjoy your time on the water.
How do you know when your lower unit goes out?
Bad outboard lower units can give the operator shifting issues, and other signs will include water in the gear lube, metallic particles on the drain screw magnet, clunking sounds when shifted, or the loss of the ability to shift into gears.
Merc 3.0, Alpha One lower unit oil leak
With three different sections of the outboard motor, it is important to determine if something has gone wrong with the lower unit or one of the other sections.
Bad bottom outboard units can give the driver shifting problems, and other signs include water in the gear oil, metal particles on the drain plug magnet, rattling noise when shifting, or loss of the ability to shift into gears.
We’ll take a closer look at what the bottom unit means, how it works, signs that something is wrong, and some general outboard maintenance tips.
What is the bottom unit of an outboard motor?
The lower unit of the outboard motor is also known as the foot, gear case or gear box. It is the lower part that houses the gear case and propeller shaft that changes the direction the propeller turns.
To keep your outboard running at its best and give it the longest possible life, you need to take care of the bottom unit.
Maintaining the lower unit is as simple as keeping debris and fishing line clear of the stanchion and changing the oil regularly. We have a thorough in-depth article here on what the different colors of gear oil tell you when changing it.
How does a bottom unit work?
The lower unit is also referred to as the gearbox housing. It is the part of the outboard that receives the rotation and power from the engine’s powerhead to transmit it to the propeller and propeller shaft.
The propeller spins, which allows your boat to move either forward or backward through the water.
If any part of the lower unit malfunctions or fails, you could be stranded in the water. Because of this, it is important to understand how each part works and how to maintain it.
Drive shaft: operation & maintenance
The driveshaft is responsible for converting the rotary power from the engine to the gearbox.
You don’t have to do much maintenance on the driveshaft as long as the bottom unit is serviced.
Water pump: operation and maintenance
The water pump pumps water through the engine to cool it. This part uses an impeller attached to the driveshaft that uses rotation as power.
When the drive shaft rotates, the impeller in the water pump rotates. The movement of the blade draws water from underneath the water pump housing and forces it into the engine.
As soon as the water flows through the motor, it is ejected back to its point of origin.
If the water pump fails, the engine will overheat. If not repaired, it can lead to worn pistons or cylinders and eventual engine seizure.
To service the water pump you want to disassemble and inspect it. Replace the impeller every 300 hours or every two years. You may also need to replace the bottom plate, cartridge, o-rings and gaskets when changing impellers.
Selector shaft: operation & maintenance
The shift shaft is responsible for turning the outboard on or off by working with the gearbox. It is also used to decide which direction the propeller shaft needs to turn to ensure the boat moves backwards or forwards.
You do not need to service the shifter shaft in any way as it should last as long as your outboard.
Transmission: Operation & Maintenance
The gearbox or gearbox uses the vertical torque coming from the driveshaft and converts it to horizontal torque for the propeller shaft and propeller.
It also helps determine which direction the propeller and propeller shaft should rotate.
The driveshaft comes into the gearbox, but it ends when it reaches the pinion. This pinion meshes with both forward and reverse gears.
When the driveshaft rotates, the pinion also rotates, which allows the gears to rotate.
There is also a dog clutch that sits between the gears and is attached to a selector shaft. The cardan shaft is also attached to this dog clutch.
Each time this shift shaft is placed in neutral, the clutch does not engage the gears and keeps the boat motionless.
When the shift shaft is in forward gear, the dog clutch is engaged, causing the propshaft and dog clutch to rotate in a specific direction. The opposite occurs when the shift shaft is in reverse, which allows it to move in the opposite direction.
Both gears and the propeller shaft are mounted with bearings that allow everything to spin freely yet are journaled in the gear case.
Over time, the clutch teeth will wear out, requiring you to replace them. When it’s time for a replacement, you may hear a grinding noise when shifting gears.
You can prevent premature clutch wear by shifting at lower speeds. You also want to maintain the rigging and make sure none of the shifter cables or throttle cables are stretched.
In addition, the shims and the pinion wear out. When this occurs, the power transfer between the correct shaft and the drive shaft is reduced, making the outboard feel like it has lost power.
In addition, the gearbox can become noisy or the gears can rattle when they become loose.
Oil seals: operation and maintenance
The oil must remain in the gearbox with the help of O-rings and seals. These also prevent water from entering the gear case.
The seals on the bottom assembly of your outboard include:
Shift oil seal and shift shaft plate O-ring
Oil seal drive shaft
Transmission bearing housing O-rings
Propeller shaft oil seal
The propeller shaft oil seal is left exposed, making it more susceptible to damage. Because of this, you should inspect the gasket frequently and replace it at the first sign of leakage or wear.
The other o-rings and seals are not easy to see. However, you can tell when one of the internal parts is failing because the water will mix with the transmission oil, leaving a gray sludge. In this case, change the gear oil.
Also, you should change this lubricant after 100 hours of use on most outboards. If you notice that water has mixed, it’s time to replace the failed o-ring or seal. You can determine which seal is leaking with a so-called pressure test.
How do I know if my outboard motor base is defective?
Many things can happen when you have a bad outboard sub unit, but here are the most common symptoms.
water in the gear oil
As mentioned earlier, once water mixes with the transmission oil, you know you have a problem. If you change the lube, you can look for signs of trouble.
This is why it is so important to change the transmission oil every 100 hours. This way you can identify the problem and fix the leak.
Before the water in the gear oil destroys the lower unit.
Metal contamination on the gear case drain plug magnet
There should never be more than 3/4″ metal particles on your bottom transmission drain plug magnet. When examining the magnet, crush all the impurities in your hands.
If it turns into a gray powder, you can ignore it completely. Otherwise, if you feel metal doing this, you should be concerned. A small amount of metal will almost always be on the magnet.
It’s only when the accumulation of metal becomes a massive amount that you need to worry and start the process of finding out what’s wrong with the bottom unit.
Clinking noises
If you start hearing a constant clanking noise, it could be the pinion or gears. When a tooth is lost, it becomes that annoying noise. And at the right RPM, it will get stuck between the gears and blow up the lower unit!
How do you idle a lower unit?
If you removed and bumped the lower unit, you may need to re-adjust neutral if the shift linkage is misaligned.
In most cases, all you have to do is rotate the splined shaft to realign the shifter. Grab it with pliers and twist until you feel it snap back into neutral.
How to change your lower unit oil
One of the most important maintenance tasks for your outboard lower section is changing the oil. Before you begin, you should read the owner’s manual for the appropriate weight and type of gear oil to use.
The transmission oil should be changed every 100 hours of operation or once a year.
Equipment you will need:
flathead screwdriver
oil pan
Cardboard box to catch drips
Lower unit oil pump
liters of gear oil
Step #1: Position the Motor
Place the outboard in a vertical position. The propeller shaft should remain parallel to the ground. If the drain seals are on the back of the bottom unit.
If they are on the underside of the nose of the gearbox housing. Then you want to tilt the engine or lower unit up to put the drain plug in the lowest position on the gear case.
Place the cardboard box on the floor under the motor. Place the oil pan under the support.
Step #2: Remove the drain plug
Use your screwdriver to remove the drain plug. On some outboards, you may need an impact wrench, which reduces the risk of stripping threads.
The bottom unit plugs are magnetic, so you might see some metal shavings that indicate wear. If you only see a few, don’t worry, but an excessive amount should be a cause for concern.
Step #3: Remove the top connector
By removing this plug you will bleed the lower unit and allow the oil to drain faster. On some outboards you may find two of these connectors, so both will need to be removed.
Do not remove this plug before removing the lower drain plug or you will create a significant mess.
Step #4: Check the oil and plugs
What color should the lower unit gear oil be? Your oil should never be milky, but look dark. If you notice it’s milky, you probably have water contamination caused by a leaky seal or debris.
Don’t just change the oil, fix the problem first. Otherwise, water will continue to seep into the oil, resulting in gear damage.
Also check the gaskets on the oil plugs. When they’re worn out or frayed, it’s time to replace them. If your gasket separates from the plug and gets stuck in the hole, it’s time to replace the entire plug.
Step #5: Refill the lower unit
Screw the lower unit pump tip into the lower plug hole. Keep the top plugs out during this time.
Pump carefully to prevent air from entering the gear case. When oil starts dripping from the upper vent, you know the lower unit is full. stop pumping
Step #6: Install the top vent plugs
Rethread your top vent plug or plug and wipe them off.
Step #7: Install the bottom drain plug
When you remove the fuel nozzle, you quickly want to put the bottom drain plug back in place.
Tighten this connector according to the instruction manual. It will likely require a specific torque.
Wipe it down and check for leaks.
Tilt the engine up to check for oil leaks from these plugs. If there has been an oil spill near you, you need to clean it up. Also, be sure to dispose of the oil properly.
Lower outboard unit conversion cost
If you have a bad outboard sub unit, you have several options. You can rebuild the device or buy a new one.
If you are a mechanic it would cost you a lot less money to rebuild the bottom unit than it would to buy a new one. However, this will take more time than just making a purchase.
You have to weigh up what is better in your situation. Look up the price of a new outboard subassembly and compare that to the price of parts for a rebuild.
Hopefully this article will help you troubleshoot lower outboard unit issues. We want to help you keep your boat running smoothly and efficiently. You can also find more tips and instructions on our YouTube channel.
We also curate many blog articles to give you the boating information you need to enjoy your time on the water.
How much water does it take to make oil milky?
How Much Water Does It Take To Make Oil Milky? It takes approximately 10 milliliters of water per liter (or about 1/3 of a gallon) of oil. The exact number depends on the type of oil and how much water you add. The more water you add, the more likely your oil will become cloudy and milky.
Merc 3.0, Alpha One lower unit oil leak
You’re driving down the street and you notice something strange is happening to your car. The oil seems to be turning milky and you’re not sure what to do about it.
What could be causing this problem and how can you fix it? This can be a sign that problems are brewing in your engine and it is important to fix the problem before it causes significant damage.
Also, milky oil means water has gotten into your engine. This can very well be caused by an external leak, usually from cylinder heads or valve cover gaskets. However, it can also mean that there is actually water in your oil passages, injectors, or even cylinders themselves.
In this article we will show you how to repair milky oil in the engine and restore your car to its former glory. So read on to get all the information you need!
What does milk oil look like?
Milky oil is something you don’t want to see when you open your hood. It can mean many different things depending on the color and type, but it’s not generally good news. Often an oil leak will start out as a milky looking liquid before turning black or clear.
Why is this happening?
When your vehicle is left standing overnight, the cold air comes into contact with metals that conduct heat well, such as steel or aluminum engine parts. However, the metal does not contract evenly and a thin film of oil forms between the expanding piston and the contracting cylinder wall.
Suppose you see milky streaks on your hood after starting your car in cool weather. In this case, it likely means there is water in your combustion chambers and you should fix the problem before it gets worse or causes additional problems. If that’s not possible, the cooler temperature can help lower the temperature to keep condensation from forming.
Oil can collect water from a variety of external sources, but it’s usually only a problem when the engine is starting and moisture is being drawn from the air. There are three reasons for this: poor design (like non-vented crankcases), worn or porous oil seals, and excessive oil consumption.
The oil will not harm your vehicle in any way, so don’t worry too much. How much water or milky looking oil you end up finding does not indicate an imminent problem with your engine. Unless your engine block has a visible crack or something, water and milk oil will not harm your engine unless you drive it for a long time.
How to fix milky oil in the engine?
Some vehicles may have “milky” or cloudy oil collected on the inside of the engine bell housing. This can be due to a variety of things including being pulled over, high mileage, improper settings, or misuse.
Sometimes when this accumulation is severe, the oil can appear as if covered with a film or white cloud. When this happens while the vehicle is in operation, it can be difficult to know where to start cleaning and detailing the engine.
However, to remove milky oil from your engine, there are two ways: with a washing machine and bucket, or with a vacuum cleaner. You can clean it with a washing machine and a bucket, but this is not a completely reliable or safe option. It is much better to clean the engine with a vacuum cleaner.
The vacuum cleaner removes the oil from the engine, preventing further damage. Although this option is more expensive, it is the best way to clean your engine and it is the most efficient way to clean the engine.
Additional tips
Keep these tips in mind when attempting to clean and detail your engine:
1) Remove all contaminated objects and parts from the area.
2) Make sure all liquids and oils are sufficiently drained.
3) Use a mild soap and water solution to clean any areas that have been soiled for a long period of time.
4) Use a hair dryer to dry the appearing oil from the surfaces.
5) Apply a repellent to areas that have been abused or neglected.
6) Clean brake shoes and lines with brake cleaner.
7) Use an anti-oxidant to keep the engine running clean.
If you do not have service experience, your mechanic can help you troubleshoot and find a solution. A mechanic can identify the problem with your engine and help you fix it.
However, if you don’t feel comfortable talking to a mechanic, here are some tips that may help:
Ask Around: If you’re looking for a mechanic, ask around. Others know your vehicle and may have had similar experiences with Milky Oil. It’s a great way to get started and see if anyone knows what the problem is.
: If you are looking for a mechanic, ask around. Others know your vehicle and may have had similar experiences with Milky Oil. It’s a great way to get started and see if anyone knows what the problem is. Check out the different types of oils: There are many different oils for engines. Check out the types of oil available and find out which one might be causing the problem in your car.
: There are many different oils for engines. Check out the types of oil available and find out which one might be causing the problem in your car. Check Engine Light: A check engine light can be the Check first Engine sign light, which may indicate that your engine has no problem.
A check engine light can be the Check first Engine sign light, which may indicate that there is no problem with your engine. Replace the air: If the problem is not related to the oil, you should still consider an air replacement. This can be a solution for a number of reasons, e.g. B. an oil leak or an overheated engine.
Why does engine oil look milky?
There are a few possible causes of engine oil looking milky. Some of these causes can be fixed by following certain steps, but others are more difficult to fix and require professional help. Here are three possible causes of milky engine oil:
The oil level is low
If your engine oil is not at the correct level, it can appear milky. This is because the oil is not properly injected into the engine. It can be difficult to determine when the level is low, so it is important to keep track of the oil level.
If you don’t have a level gauge, you can use a guide to quickly check and adjust your engine oil level. The kit is specifically designed to assist in the correct injection of oil into the engine and can help improve fuel economy.
Oil comes in wrong
If the oil is not properly injected into the engine, it can also appear milky. This is because the oil is going through the wrong areas of the engine. It can be difficult to determine where the incorrect injection is, so tracking the oil level is important to keep the engine oil level at the correct level.
Watch this video on how to tell if your oil is milky:
Using the car in too much sunlight
Sunlight can cause oils to appear milky. For example, if you drive in direct sunlight, the oil may appear cloudy or milky due to the bright light reflecting off it. If you drive in direct sunlight, be sure to keep the oil level at an appropriate level so that the oil does not appear cloudy or milky.
Use car in cold weather
Cold weather can cause oils to appear milky. For example, if you drive in cold weather, the oil may appear cloudy or milky as the ice reflects off it.
If you have a problem with your engine oil looking cloudy or milky, it may be due to cold weather. If you drive in cold weather, be sure to keep your oil level at an appropriate level to keep the oil from looking cloudy or milky.
The car is too hot or the oil is too cold
If your engine oil looks cloudy or milky, it could be because the engine is overheating or the oil is cold.
If you are driving in a vehicle where the engine is too hot or the oil is too cold, be sure to keep the oil level at an appropriate level so that the oil does not appear cloudy or milky.
Use of Foreigner’s Oil
Tramp oil can cause the engine oil to appear cloudy or milky. This happens because the tramp oil is not compatible with the vehicle’s engine oil.
If you drive a foreign vehicle and your engine oil looks cloudy or milky, it may be because the foreign oil is not compatible with the engine oil.
Poor quality oil
Running a car with inferior or diluted oil can also lead to this problem. The type of oil used is critical as certain synthetic and traditionally blended oils tend to shear which reduces their viscosity at high temperatures.
This leads to poor lubrication between moving parts, which carbonizes and gives off the appearance of tiny black spots throughout the engine compartment.
Brand new filter
A new filter can also make the engine oil look cloudy or milky. This happens because it becomes holographic when the filter is installed and the filter eliminates any bubbles present in older oil.
When you drive a vehicle that has a new filter, it can be difficult to know how much flushing oil will rid the car’s engine of milky oil.
water pollution
When water enters your engine’s combustion chamber, it begins to break down the oil into a white tint. This is due to the chemical reaction of the water with the additives found in most modern motor oils.
Indicator of a healthy engine
A milky color in the engine is a sign that your engine has been very well lubricated. This occurs when oil is constantly being cleaned by flowing through the engine and cooling its moving parts.
As oil cleans, regenerates and nourishes itself, tiny particles of metal (usually iron) left on your car engine’s internal components by normal wear and tear break loose from the mount and settle to the bottom of your oil pan.
If you notice this phenomenon, it means that everything is fine with your vehicle. However, if this “milky” substance accumulates or increases over time, it may indicate something else is wrong with the health of your car’s engine.
How do I get water out of engine oil?
Mixing motor oil with water is messy, and getting water out seems like a daunting task, but with the right tips and tricks, you can do it. Here are four ways to remove water from engine oil:
Step 1. Use a bucket or other planter to catch the water droplets falling from the engine oil.
Step 2. Vinegar or other acids can help break down the hydrocarbons in the oil and create a solution using a bucket or other planter.
Step 3. Use a vacuum cleaner to suck the water droplets out of the engine oil.
Step 4. Use a bandana, kilt, or other obstacle around the hose connection to prevent water droplets from dripping onto the engine oil.
If you’re looking to clean your motor oil, there are a few things you can do to help. One method is to use a bucket or other planter to catch the water droplets that fall from the oil.
If you use vinegar or other acids, they can also help break down the oil’s hydrocarbons and use a bucket or other planter to make a solution. Another option is to suck up the water droplets with a vacuum cleaner. This will help remove all of the water content from the oil.
Will it cost you to fix milky engine oil?
Some may argue that fixing milky oil in an engine would cost more than simply buying a new engine. However, there are many factors to consider to determine whether it’s worth investing in a costly repair or replacement.
It can be difficult to determine if a particular purchase is worthwhile, but there is no definitive answer to how to repair an engine. Some might disagree, but it’s always important to do your research before you decide. It can be worth figuring out what would be a reasonable effort to flush Milky Oil out of the engine and then making a decision based on that.
If you go through Amazon.com and type in “milk oil” you will find many different items that you can purchase to repair your engine. Some people may say it doesn’t cost them anything to repair their engine with this oil.
On the other hand, others might say it might be more expensive than what they are used to. If you’re not sure what type of oil to buy or how much it will cost, it might be good to talk to an expert before you buy.
frequently asked Questions
Does milky oil always mean head gasket? You need to know a few things about milky oil and head gaskets. First, milky oil is not always a sign of a head gasket leak. In fact, some people believe that this is a sign that the seal is not adequate. However, this has yet to be definitively proven. Secondly, it is always advisable to replace the head gasket when it is afflicted with problems. This ensures that the engine runs smoothly and globally correctly. There is no one-size-fits-all answer for milky oil and head gaskets. So if you are unsure which seal should be replaced it is always a good idea to consult a mechanic. Can I drive my car with milk oil? No, some even say it’s okay to ride short periods of time, but we advise against it. You could get away with driving a few weeks before risking serious engine failure. If this method is used successfully, you may not experience any engine problems at all. But the cost of repairing an engine damaged by dirty oil is often much higher than regular maintenance costs (e.g. changing the oil). And when you consider that many people replace their motor shortly after it becomes dirty due to other factors (e.g. negligence), why take the risk? It seems like a better bet to me to just change the oil and be on the safe side. If you feel that your engine is still not running smoothly, change the oil as soon as possible and take it to the workshop. There’s no point in waiting any longer, you’ll only risk more damage to your engine if you keep running it with contaminated oil. How much water does it take to make oil milky? It takes about 10 milliliters of water per liter (or about 1/3 gallon) of oil. The exact number depends on the type of oil and how much water you add. The more water you add, the more likely your oil will become cloudy and milky. To get oil to this stage you need to mix in a relatively equal ratio of water and oil. So if you want to dilute your one liter bottle of oil by 1/3 (to make it a mixture of one third water and two thirds oil) you need to add about 100 milliliters of water.
final considerations
If you have a milky engine oil cap, the first thing to do is make sure there is no leak. The next step would be to replace your old engine oil filter if that caused the problem. You can also submerge your car in water for about 20 minutes and then start it again.
There are many different causes of this problem that require their own solutions. So it may take some trial and error before you can determine what went wrong or the best way to fix milky oil in an engine.
The more you know about how your engine works, the better chance you have of avoiding these common problems. Motor oil is a crucial component to keep your car running smoothly and reliably.
If it starts to look milky or watery then there could be something wrong with the head gasket that needs to be addressed immediately by a professional mechanic before it gets worse!
How do I replace my oil seals in a Mercruiser Alpha one gearcase
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Changing your Mercruiser Gear Lube (Alpha One, pre-Alpha and Alpha Gen II sterndrives)
Change your Alpha Gear Lube
Drive Lubrication Pump (Part 91-802891K2)
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LOWER UNIT OIL CHANGE
Welcome to the step-by-step guide to changing your outboard bottom assembly oil. This 8-step process is enough to ensure that the oil in your lower unit is properly cared for.
The table at the end of this guide lists the approximate amount of oil required to fill the lower assembly of each model currently offered by Tohatsu.
STEP First, make sure your outboard is in a vertical and upright position.
Locate and identify the top and bottom fill and drain plugs.
Place an oil pan under the outboard. STEP Remove the BOTTOM drain plug first (not the top). Some oil will start to ooze out, so make sure your oil pan is properly positioned to catch the draining oil. STEP Next, remove the UPPER drain plug. This releases the existing vacuum and the oil can drain freely from the lower unit. STEP Completely drain all oil from lower unit. This takes about 5-10 minutes. STEP Once all the oil has been completely drained it is time to refill the lower unit. Various types of devices are available ranging from squeeze bottles to tubes. One of the most popular do-it-yourself methods is to use a squeeze bottle. You can use any brand of lubricant that has a grade designation of API GL5 SAE 80 or 90 weight. Make sure you don’t mix different brands or weights of oil. To refill the lower unit, insert the bottle/tube
into the LOWER drain hole. Then slowly squeeze the bottle to push the oil into the lower unit. STEP Continue adding oil until the lubricant flows freely from the top hole and is free of air bubbles. STEP Leave the bottle/tube in the bottom stopper (or plug the hole with your finger) and reinsert the TOP stopper. This creates a slight vacuum that minimizes oil loss while you reinstall the bottom plug. STEP Now QUICKLY remove the bottle (or your finger) from the bottom hole and install the drain plug. It is important to do this as soon as possible to minimize oil loss. Although there is a slight vacuum, some oil will still be lost. Don’t worry about losing some oil, however, if you lose too much oil you will have to go back and add additional oil. Hand tighten both the lower and upper drain plugs and wipe off any oil from your lower unit.
WARNING: Operating your outboard without completely filling the lower unit with oil to the proper level will severely damage your outboard. Read the comments at the end of this guide on how to check the correct oil level in your lower unit. Dispose of your old oil safely and properly by taking it to an oil recycling center. Most “quick lube oil change centers” or auto repair shops will take your used oil for a small fee. Notes: To check the oil level, remove the top oil plug, insert a small piece of wire about 1 inch straight into the top hole, and pull the wire out. If there is oil on the wire the oil level is correct, if not the unit needs topping up to the correct level. To add oil (“top-off”), reinsert the top plug, remove the bottom plug, and pop your oil bottle into the hole. Remove the top plug to break the vacuum and add the required amount of oil. Reinstall the top plug, then quickly reinstall the bottom plug. Check the oil level again as described above.
Lower Unit Oil Required by Model Model Approximate Fluid Ounces Required 2.5 and 3.5 (4-Stroke) 6.1 fl oz 2.5A and 3.5A (2-Stroke) 3.0 fl oz 3.5B ( 2-stroke) 6.0 fl oz 4 (4-stroke) 6.6 fl oz 5 (2-stroke & 4-stroke) 6.6 fl oz 6 (4-stroke) 6.6 fl oz 8 (2- Stroke & 4-Stroke) 10.8 fl oz 9.8 (2-Stroke & 4-Stroke) 10.8 fl oz 9.9 (2-Stroke) 12.5 fl oz 9.9A (4-Stroke) 6.8 fl oz 9.9B (4-stroke) 12.5 fl oz 15 (2-stroke) 12.5 fl oz 15A (4-stroke) 6.8 fl oz 15B & C (4-stroke) 12.5 fl oz 18 (2-Stroke & 4-Stroke) 12.5 fl oz 20 (4-Stroke) 12.5 fl oz 25 (2-Stroke) 14.5 fl oz 25 (4-Stroke) 9.5 fl oz 30 ( 2-stroke) 14.5 fl oz 30 (4-stroke) 9.5 fl oz 40C (2-cylinder, 2-stroke) 15.9 fl oz 40D (3-cylinder, 2-stroke) 16.9 fl oz MD40 (TLDI) & MFS40 (4-stroke) 16.9 fl oz 50D (3-cylinder, 2-stroke) 16.9 fl oz MD50 (TLDI) & MFS50 (4-stroke) 16.9 fl oz 70B (3 -cylinder, 2-stroke) 23.7 fl oz 70C (3-cylinder, 2-stroke) 30.4 fl oz MD70/75 (TLDI) 30.4 fl oz 90A (2-stroke) 30.4 fl oz MD90 (TLDI) 30.4 fl oz 115A (2-stroke) 30.4 fl oz MD115 (TLDI) 30.4 fl oz 140A ( 2-stroke) 30.4 fl oz BFT60 (4-stroke) 14.4 fl oz BFTW60 (4-stroke) 32.0 fl oz BFT75 & BFT90 (4-stroke) 32.0 fl oz BFT115 & BFT150 (4- bar) 33.0 fl oz BFT200 & BFT225 & BFT250 (4-str.) 39.7 fl oz
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Merc 3.0, Alpha One lower unit oil leak
A few years ago my wife and I inherited a 1990 Glastron with a Mercruiser 3.0 / Alpha One (first generation). I made the stupid mistake of leaving the boat in gear on the trailer so I could adjust the idle mixture on the carburetor. Needless to say, sand on the ramp + impeller = work on the bottom unit. I replaced the pump and housing on the lower unit and it now pumps water like a champ.
Problem #1: The drive oil is leaking through the drain hole at the front end of the lower unit. I noticed the leak when changing the drive oil when I pumped the fresh oil in through the drain plug on the lower unit. I ran the engine for a minute to make sure the water pump was working properly and now I have milky drive oil (water in the oil).
Problem #2: I can’t get the shifter shaft on the upper unit to be properly adjusted. I can get the bottom unit in the right gear, but how do I know if the top unit is in the right gear? So far I’ve gotten all neutral (after putting the washer back on the shift shaft) and now I have forward, forward (in neutral) and can’t shift into reverse.
I suspect the biggest problem will be #1, #2 will be trial and error I think, but any advice will be helpful.
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