Mobile Home Leveling Oklahoma? Top 50 Best Answers

Water level and bottle jack are the most important tools for an RV owner. An RV requires two bottle jacks to be re-leveled. The jacks should be placed on the cross members or the hitch. Good ideas are steel jack plates.

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Safety is the most important part of storm preparedness.

Please remember that EVACUATION is the best plan to save your life no matter how good your tie downs are or how complete your insurance coverage is!

Secure your home from the storm

Anchor REQUIRED

Mobile homes should ALWAYS be tied down. In fact, Florida law requires prefab home owners to secure their homes with anchors and tie downs. Homes without proper lashing are more vulnerable to strong winds. By taking the right precautions now, you will ensure your mobile home is properly secured and reduce potential damage to your home and your neighbor’s property. Lashing straps should be checked at least once a year.

storm insurance

Florida law PROHIBITS the sale of storm insurance for manufactured homes that are not enshrined under Florida law.

Remember:

Flood damage is NOT covered by most homeowners policies. You may need flood insurance even if you don’t live in a flood area. The National Flood Insurance Program provides flood insurance for manufactured homes on foundations. Check with your insurance broker for details.

Contractor’s License

Florida law requires that tethered installers be licensed by the state. To verify a contractor’s license, contact the Department of Highway Safety & Motor Vehicles, Manufactured Housing Section of Division of Motorist Services.

inspections

Have your tie downs checked by an installer. Most plumbers will inspect your home and provide a free estimate. Get estimates from three installers and ask them to explain the installation.

installation rules

Anchoring requirements are specified in Florida Administration Code 15C-1. Ask your installer about the requirements of this code. For detailed information, contact the Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles, Bureau of Mobile Home and Recreational Vehicle Construction at (850) 617-3004.

time cost

A typical tie-down installation costs less than $2,000 and takes less than a day.

Alternative anchoring systems

If a contractor is looking for tie downs, ask if there are reliable, state-approved tie-down systems for your home. Other Structures: Also ask about recommended methods of securing storage/utility sheds, carports and other vulnerable structures.

group estimates

Most contractors give discounts for group installations. Meet with your neighbors to schedule a group inspection and/or installation.

Utilities

Learn how and when to turn off gas, water and electricity.

safety tips

Check for loose belts.

Make sure the straps are properly aligned and not crooked.

Ensure the correct number of tie-down straps have been installed.

Make sure ground anchors and stabilizer plates are properly installed.

Make sure the buttresses are touching the frame.

Replace straps or ground anchors that show signs of corrosion or damage.

For added protection, consider installing a longitudinal fastening system at the front and back of your home.

Develop an evacuation plan

host houses

Emergency management agencies advise you to arrange an “inn” outside the evacuation zone. A host family is the home of a friend or family member who has agreed to provide temporary accommodation for you and your family.

communication plan

Ask an out-of-state relative or friend to act as a “family contact.” Make sure everyone in the family knows the contact’s name, address, and phone number.

Public Shelters

Public shelters should be your LAST RESORT in an evacuation. You have no privacy, little space and food service can be delayed. Your temporary “home” will be the floor of a gymnasium or a public hallway, and local officials must give you permission to leave! If you MUST use a public shelter, find two nearby shelters, preferably in different directions from your home.

escape routes

See attached map for evacuation routes. Be prepared to drive 20-50 miles to reach a safe place.

The signs that a mobile home is uneven are similar to the symptoms of a site built home with foundation problems. If you notice any of the shortcomings listed below, we encourage you to look around your home and carefully inspect the others:

• Diagonal cracks in drywall at corners, windows, or doors, cracks along the seam where walls meet ceiling.

• Doors do not engage or only with difficulty and swing open or closed by themselves.

• Neaten curves, twists or folds.

• Humps (crowns) in the floor and/or cracks in the drywall at the double width juncture line.

• Gap between cabinets and their bulkheads and wall behind.

• Windows cannot be opened, glass cracked.

• A slight cracking of the flooring underfoot and/or squeaking in places in the floor.

Also see our blog post How often should you re-level an RV? and Why is it important that a mobile home stays level throughout its lifetime? and What is the minimum warranty for a mobile/manufactured home installation in Florida? and What causes a crowned floor in a mobile/prefab home? and Can overtightening RV tie down straps cause the floor to buckle?

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Here are links to a collection of our blog posts about MOBILE/MANUFACTURED HOMES:

• Where do I file a complaint if I have a problem with my new or used Florida RV home?

• What are the most common defects in mobile/fabricated residential foundation piers?

• How do I determine the age of a very old mobile home?

• What is a Mobile/Prefab “HUD Label Letter of Approval”?

• When was a ground cover vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) required under a mobile/prefab home?

• Is it safe to go under a mobile home?

• Are older mobile homes unsafe?

• What do I need to know about buying a foreclosed mobile home?

• Does it make sense to buy and convert an older mobile home?

• Where can I find the vehicle identification number (VIN) on a motorhome?

• How do I find out how old an RV is and who made it?

• What is the right price for a used mobile home?

• How energy efficient is a mobile home?

• When were the first double-width caravans made?

• How do I upgrade my old RV (pre 1976) to meet HUD standards?

• What size air conditioner is right for my RV?

• Can you move an older mobile home in Florida?

• What does the HUD tag look like and where can I find it on an RV?

• Can you place a Zone 1 mobile home in Florida?

• How can I remove water from under my RV?

• What are the differences between a caravan, a mobile home, a prefabricated house and a modular house?

• What is a D-Sticker motorhome?

• What are the lashing requirements for an RV?

• How fireproof is a mobile home?

• Can I install a mobile home myself?

• What is a Park Model mobile home?

• Does an extension to an RV have to comply with the HUD code?

• Which walls can I remove in a mobile home?

• What can I do to avoid moisture and mold in my mobile home?

• How can I tell if a mobile home is well built?

• How do I recognize the difference between a prefabricated house and a modular house?

Visit our MOBILE/MANUFACTURED HOMES page for other related blog posts on this topic or go to the INDEX for a full list of all our articles.

Considering mobile homes aren’t built on a standard foundation, you can’t be sure how much weight they can support.

Whether you’re moving in furniture or planning to exercise in your home, you may be wondering how much support it can safely hold.

Here’s what you need to know about RVs and their weight ratings.

How much weight can an RV floor support?

A mobile home floor can support up to 40 pounds of weight per square foot.

As long as you don’t have several heavy items in the same square foot of space, your RV can carry a decent amount of weight.

The average mobile home size is 1,184 square feet.

That means your RV can carry around 47,360 pounds in total.

This includes the weight per person.

It’s also worth noting that there can be certain parts that can support more weight and parts that can’t hold as much.

Areas where the RV has beams, for example, may be able to support more weight if they have a support underneath.

If they don’t have support underneath, then these are the weaker areas of your home.

In most cases, the farther an area is from underlying structural support, the weaker it is.

Because of this, you may feel your home shake when you walk or run in one part of your home as opposed to another.

When your home rests on a slab foundation, it can also support more weight than a mobile home that rests on concrete blocks.

Because a slab foundation provides support throughout the house.

Cinder blocks support only the corners of the house.

To determine how much weight your house can specifically support, you need to find the total area of ​​the house and then multiply that by 40.

Can you put heavy furniture in an RV?

Yes, in most cases you can put heavy furniture in an RV.

Heavy furniture can include sectionals, fitness equipment, authentic wooden tables, large shelving units, and heavy-duty recliners.

Provided that the furniture is spread out over several square meters rather than one, the camper should be able to carry it.

However, specific cases may differ.

A good way to determine if a heavy piece of furniture will fit in your RV is to weigh it.

First determine the weight of the piece of furniture on your own.

This means weighing the furniture when it is empty or when no one is sitting on it.

Then determine the additional weight that is on the furniture.

For example, if it’s a bookshelf, determine how heavy the books that will rest on it.

Let’s say the bookshelf weighs only 20 pounds.

If it occupies two square feet, you still have 20 pounds per square foot that can safely hold the weight.

Altogether that’s 40 pounds of books.

You can estimate or actually pull out a scale and weigh each book to determine if the area is carrying too much weight or not.

The same goes for a piece of furniture that you will be sitting in.

You need to know how much you weigh or how much the heaviest person in the RV weighs.

Then add that to the weight of the furniture you took earlier.

For example, if a couch weighs 20 pounds and occupies five square feet, then that leaves 20 pounds per foot.

That means there has to be 100 pounds before the weight capacity starts to fail.

If you weigh more than 100 pounds, you may need to find a lighter couch, find a larger couch, or move the couch to an area that has direct contact with the floor for support.

Can you put heavy gym equipment in an RV?

Another concern that many people have is whether they can stow heavy gym equipment in their RVs.

It primarily depends on the weight of the fitness equipment and whether the motorhome has a support underneath or not.

Certain types of fitness equipment are very heavy.

Treadmills, weights, and even bikes can weigh hundreds of pounds.

If they aren’t big enough to spread over a large area, it could be too much weight for the floor.

Putting your own weight on the equipment can make your floor even more dangerous.

Follow the same method as above to determine the weight of the machine.

Then weigh yourself.

Determine the square footage the machine will occupy on your floor.

This tells you how much weight each area can still support.

If your weight does not exceed this total amount, the floor of the RV can support it.

Keep in mind that there is still a way to increase stability even if it doesn’t support it.

Putting your RV on a slab foundation is the best method.

However, if this is not possible, you can layer cinder blocks under the RV to support it.

This type of support is not as stable but can help provide additional support to certain areas of the home such as an on-site gym.

Can you put a gun safe in an RV?

Some RV owners may also be wondering if they can put a gun safe in their homes.

Gun safes vary in weight, but many of them typically weigh around 100 pounds.

However, some can even weigh as much as 1,000 pounds.

There are a few problems that come with putting a heavy gun safe in an RV, but for the most part the installation is safe.

The biggest threat to a gun safe is water damage and movement.

If the mobile home is old and has seen its fair share of water damage, chances are the floor is weak.

If the ground is weak, it cannot support a heavy gun cabinet.

It will fall through the floor over time.

Exercise is another big factor.

Frequently moving your RV to another location can also affect the stability of the floor.

The bars can begin to lose integrity and become weak.

If you safely place the gun on it, it may fall through the ground.

The problem is exacerbated if you bolt the safe to the floor.

If the safe moves with the ground, there is a chance it could break free and tip over, dragging the ground with it.

However, for RVs that are new and stationary, gun safes can usually be safely installed in your RV.

Another important consideration is the weight of the items going into the vault.

Whether weapons, equipment or important documents, the weight of the items inside also contributes to the overall weight of the safe.

While a safe may be fine on its own on the floor, the added weight may not be.

To counteract this problem, you can place cinder blocks under the floor and under the house.

You can also make sure you buy a large enough safe that covers more square feet.

This helps distribute the weight, allowing more weight to go into the vault.

In most cases, however, you can use a gun safe in an RV.

Is tile too heavy for an RV?

If you want your mobile home to stand out from the rest, you should consider installing tiles.

Whether you choose to put tiles in your kitchen or bathroom, they can look great and make the whole area look classy.

The problem with tiles is that there are different materials to work with.

One RV doesn’t work well with everyone.

Stone, for example, will be too heavy for mobile homes.

A better option is ceramic.

Not only is ceramic cheaper, but you can use them with motion absorbing beams, which can account for the slight swaying of some mobile homes.

This will ensure that the tiles will not crack under the pressure of the movement.

Ceramic is also better because it’s not as heavy as stone.

If you are concerned about weight, ceramic is an ideal choice as you can still step on it without worrying about going through the floor.

However, using tile in an RV requires a bit more effort than it does in a standard home.

That’s because the tile must accommodate the unique needs of an RV.

The movement absorbing beams are absolutely necessary when laying ceramic tiles.

The subfloor is also important.

If you’re in an old RV, chances are the subfloor isn’t suitable for tile.

You will need to install a new sub floor made of 5/8 inch plywood.

This gives the floor extra strength and also helps in wet areas like the bathroom.

The subfloor must be smooth.

Finally, you need to know how much grout to use when laying tiles.

For dry areas you must use 80% grout.

For wet areas you must use 95% grout.

That is, the grout is both on the back and on the surface of the tile.

It is possible to have tiles in your mobile home, but if you want the safest type for their weight, ceramic tiles are the right choice.

When shouldn’t you tile your RV?

While tiles can make your mobile home look professional and upscale, there are times when you shouldn’t be using them.

One of those times is when you’re concerned about the weight on your floor.

Certain places in the home that don’t have much support may not be worth tiling.

The extra weight can make it impossible to use.

Since that is essentially a waste of space and money, tiling is not worth it.

Another situation is when you don’t like cold floors.

If you live in an area with cold winters, tile floors may not be ideal for you.

Ceramic tile, in particular, tends to feel colder against your skin than other types.

If the idea of ​​stepping on cold flooring after waking up isn’t ideal, you might want to try a different type of flooring.

A third reason you might not want to tile your floor is if you know you’re going to be moving.

Tile does not respond well to movement.

As your RV travels down the freeway, your tile in it may crack.

When you open the door, you may find your tile completely shattered.

It is best if RVs stay on the property permanently.

Finally, you might not want to use tiles if you plan on swapping them out in another year or so.

Floor design trends change from year to year.

If you end up using an outdated style, you might want to change it.

The problem with tiles, and ceramic tiles in particular, is that they are difficult and messy to remove.

You may have to completely replace the underbody afterwards.

If you choose to use tiles in your RV, you need to choose a style and design that is timeless and will last you a lifetime.

Can an RV carry an aquarium?

Another common heavy object that RV owners sometimes want to buy is an aquarium.

Fish and other aquatic creatures make great pets because they don’t take up the entire home and are relatively easy and affordable to care for.

However, you cannot be sure that an RV can support an aquarium.

Large aquariums can sometimes weigh as much as 850 pounds.

The good news is that heavy aquariums are big too.

They have a large floor span, which means they spread their weight across multiple feet.

This makes it easier for the floor to carry.

However, you should consider reserving this space for the aquarium only.

Do not use it for other heavy objects.

It is also worth supporting the ground under the house with concrete blocks.

If space allows, your RV can accommodate most aquariums.

Why is the bottom of your RV sinking?

If you notice the bottom of your RV sinking, then that’s a real problem.

One reason it might sink is that there is too much weight in that one area.

You can fix the problem immediately by moving items to another location.

You can also support it from below with cinder blocks.

Another reason your floor may be sinking could be water damage.

When your RV suffers water damage, the materials that make it up begin to deteriorate.

It loses its structure and becomes weak.

Replacing the floor and sub-floor should fix the problem.

Eventually it can sink because the RV sinks as a whole.

You may have to park it on a slab foundation to get it.

Conclusion

Mobile home floors can support a good amount of weight.

However, to protect your floor, it is best to park it on a slab foundation or use several cinder blocks to give the floor extra support.

If you notice your floor sinking, it could be a sign of a serious problem.

gregh…@nospam.com wrote:



> No thanks. I have and will NOT have anything to do with the government

> officials and inspectors. Where I live they don’t inspect anything

> until we contact them, then they become curious and bother you

> Everybody shit, then raise taxes. I moved to a very remote place

> rural area to escape from political idiots. When I first moved here

> I was told by local farmers to NEVER contact the inspector about anything.

> They said that just screams trouble because as soon as they set foot

> on your property you need concrete bunkers for liquid manure and a

> Millions of other ridiculous things.

>

> I don’t do anything twice. If anything, I’d rather lay too many stacks

> as not enough. I just want to learn what is recommended. and

> This mobile home may not be used as an apartment. It’s all about it

> used for storage anyway, or occasionally a visitor may stay in it

> for a few weekends in the summer. There won’t even be heat or water

> supplied with it, and I run a makeshift extension cord for the electrical system

> out of the barn if needed for some lights. I just want it to be tight in there

> in a storm.

>

> If anyone can answer the actual block spacing question, I would

> appreciate it.

>

>GH

I didn’t tell you to get it checked out just to find out what

The code is because the manufacturer would do just that

Tell you how to do it because it’s the code. If you do

code and you’re unlucky enough to have it checked later

will have been done right. In Florida, the code is the link

below, see page 5 to learn how to do it, pier spacing

on page 8.

http://www.flhsmv.gov/dmv/Forms/BMHRV/15C1Finl.pdf

If you are in another state, it will likely be different.

RP

Base Pads, Foundations and why you need them

A while back we shared a blog with an overview of RV site preparation and why it is such an important task when buying an RV.

We briefly mentioned baseplates and some of the costs involved, but today we want to look at the different baseplate or foundation options that are available to you when installing a mobile home.

Why you want a base pad

Floor tiles are extremely important in keeping your mobile home level, properly draining water away from the house, and keeping your structure secure. The most important consideration when building your base pad is water drainage.

It is not difficult to imagine which is better to put your house on rocks or your house on mud. If you don’t have a proper base, the ground underneath your house can turn to mud and destabilize everything your house stands on. Water will churn up the ground beneath your house, which can cause shifts, make your house uneven, and cause interior cosmetic imperfections like cracks.

Not having a proper base pad is pretty much like not having home insurance or playing with your neighbor’s surly pit bill… you’re just looking for trouble. The best way to solve a problem is to avoid it in the first place.

The beauty of basic pads is that they’re usually not that expensive (more on that below) and the cost can often be factored into your home loan or funded separately with a small personal loan if you’re paying cash and can’t cover everything well.

Caliche base pads are the most common

The most common and bank-accepted type of foundation is called a caliche, which is gravel high in calcium carbonate (think limestone). It is something like “naturally made” cement.

In order to install this base pad, a few things need to be set before you dump the gravel and hit the road.

First the height of the pad has to be determined. Height may vary based on local building codes, lot variations and homeowner preference. However, a good rule of thumb is about 4 to 6 inches above natural slope (natural slope is the level of the ground you are working on).

The next thing to determine is the length and width, which will depend entirely on the RV you are installing there.

A good base pad is a foot wider on each side and longer than that of the house.

A little too big is always better than not big enough, so for a 14×76 house a 16×80 base pad would be ideal. Making it wider makes it more difficult to fit the landscaping close to your home.

The cost of a basic caliche pad can vary from $2,500 to $5,000, a price dependent on the size of the pad, the height required, and the distance from the contractor and materials.

Permanent concrete foundation

The “next level” for base plates is a permanent concrete foundation. This installation method involves pouring concrete skids to create permanent anchor points and pillars for your RV.

If you receive a loan through the VA or FHA government programs, this basis is one of the requirements. The cost is factored into the loan along with other required improvement costs and can range from $6,500 to $12,000.

Other situations that may require the installation of a permanent concrete foundation are where city ordinances or flood plains dictate it.

For flood plains, an engineer examines and explains what type of pad is sufficient for a camper van.

The city code varies by city and can be checked quickly by calling the building and permitting office to find all the necessary components for your property.

Finally, there are some situations where you might want to opt for this type of permanent foundation for the house style you have purchased.

Homes with tape and textured walls are especially nice on concrete as they go a long way in preventing stress cracking around doors and windows as the foundation shifts and settles over time.

Do I need technical plans?

In some cases, you may need to hire an engineer to design and inspect various parts of the construction of your new single-width or double-width home. This is a requirement for loans through any of the available government agencies (FHA/VA).

It’s also highly recommended when dealing with things like high water (in flood plains), slopes and anything else that might be out of the norm for both your retailer and your installer.

Finally, if you’re not sure which base is right for you, or have any other questions about buying or installing a mobile home, give us a call and we’ll be happy to give you all the information you need.

This article was originally written on January 14, 2019 and updated on September 30, 2021 to ensure it contains the most accurate information

page content

Safety is the most important part of storm preparedness.

Please remember that EVACUATION is the best plan to save your life no matter how good your tie downs are or how complete your insurance coverage is!

Secure your home from the storm

Anchor REQUIRED

Mobile homes should ALWAYS be tied down. In fact, Florida law requires prefab home owners to secure their homes with anchors and tie downs. Homes without proper lashing are more vulnerable to strong winds. By taking the right precautions now, you will ensure your mobile home is properly secured and reduce potential damage to your home and your neighbor’s property. Lashing straps should be checked at least once a year.

storm insurance

Florida law PROHIBITS the sale of storm insurance for manufactured homes that are not enshrined under Florida law.

Remember:

Flood damage is NOT covered by most homeowners policies. You may need flood insurance even if you don’t live in a flood area. The National Flood Insurance Program provides flood insurance for manufactured homes on foundations. Check with your insurance broker for details.

Contractor’s License

Florida law requires that tethered installers be licensed by the state. To verify a contractor’s license, contact the Department of Highway Safety & Motor Vehicles, Manufactured Housing Section of Division of Motorist Services.

inspections

Have your tie downs checked by an installer. Most plumbers will inspect your home and provide a free estimate. Get estimates from three installers and ask them to explain the installation.

installation rules

Anchoring requirements are specified in Florida Administration Code 15C-1. Ask your installer about the requirements of this code. For detailed information, contact the Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles, Bureau of Mobile Home and Recreational Vehicle Construction at (850) 617-3004.

time cost

A typical tie-down installation costs less than $2,000 and takes less than a day.

Alternative anchoring systems

If a contractor is looking for tie downs, ask if there are reliable, state-approved tie-down systems for your home. Other Structures: Also ask about recommended methods of securing storage/utility sheds, carports and other vulnerable structures.

group estimates

Most contractors give discounts for group installations. Meet with your neighbors to schedule a group inspection and/or installation.

Utilities

Learn how and when to turn off gas, water and electricity.

safety tips

Check for loose belts.

Make sure the straps are properly aligned and not crooked.

Ensure the correct number of tie-down straps have been installed.

Make sure ground anchors and stabilizer plates are properly installed.

Make sure the buttresses are touching the frame.

Replace straps or ground anchors that show signs of corrosion or damage.

For added protection, consider installing a longitudinal fastening system at the front and back of your home.

Develop an evacuation plan

host houses

Emergency management agencies advise you to arrange an “inn” outside the evacuation zone. A host family is the home of a friend or family member who has agreed to provide temporary accommodation for you and your family.

communication plan

Ask an out-of-state relative or friend to act as a “family contact.” Make sure everyone in the family knows the contact’s name, address, and phone number.

Public Shelters

Public shelters should be your LAST RESORT in an evacuation. You have no privacy, little space and food service can be delayed. Your temporary “home” will be the floor of a gymnasium or a public hallway, and local officials must give you permission to leave! If you MUST use a public shelter, find two nearby shelters, preferably in different directions from your home.

escape routes

See attached map for evacuation routes. Be prepared to drive 20-50 miles to reach a safe place.

Yes, as long as the RV roof is in good condition, it should easily support the weight of an average adult.

However, that doesn’t mean that walking on your RV roof is necessarily safe or advisable. You must carefully consider factors such as the materials used, truss locations, the weather, and your level of experience.

So can you walk on a camper roof? Yes, but before you take your first step, check out our ultimate guide.

How much weight can an RV carry?

While specifics vary, most mobile home roofs can support up to 30 pounds of live weight per square foot. It is the same strength required by most state building codes for indoor flooring.

Even an RV with a roof weight limit of 10 pounds per square foot can carry significant weight. For example, a 1,200-square-foot RV with a roof that can support ten pounds per square foot supports up to 12 tons — that’s about four times the weight of an average car.

Materials for camper roofs

Weight is not the only factor to consider. The type of material used also plays a major role in whether you should inspect your roof or not. Even if the roof easily supports your weight, your footsteps can damage the roofing materials.

Three types of materials are commonly used on RV roofs.

asphalt shingles

Asphalt shingles are the most common type. They’re affordable and durable, but they add a significant amount of weight to the roof. A single layer can add 2,000 pounds or more.

If you want to replace damaged shingles, you must remove them completely. A brick structure can support multiple layers of asphalt shingles, but a mobile home is usually limited to one layer at a time.

When walking on an asphalt roof, only step along the traverses. Trusses are the composite beams that support the roof. To find the trusses you can use a stud finder and you might be able to see them from your attic as well.

metal roof

Many RV roofs are made of metal, often a light metal such as aluminum. Metal roofing offers more protection from the elements and lasts longer than shingles.

On the other hand, metal is not that energy efficient. Warm and cool air flows up and out of your home more easily, often resulting in higher energy bills depending on the weather in your area.

The biggest potential problem is slipping while walking on a metal roof, as metal roofs don’t offer much traction.

TPO

Thermoplastic polyolefin roofs, also known as rubber roofs, are a popular option – especially when replacing worn clapboards or metal roofs on older RVs.

It is a durable, lightweight, and flexible material that is easy to install and maintain. TPO roofs are also very energy efficient.

Watch your shoes when walking on a TPO roof. Avoid shoes with spikes or heavy treads as these can press into the TPO material. Laying wooden planks across your roof to walk on protects the surface from damage and distributes your body weight more evenly.

Types of roof structures for mobile homes

In addition to the materials used, the design of the motorhome roof also affects accessibility.

There are two basic designs typically related to the age of the structure:

Flat or curved

Most mobile homes built before 1976 have flat or arched roofs. An arch is a free-standing, arched frame.

While flat roofs offer the most stable walking surface, they are also subject to the greatest stresses as snow and water can collect on the surface. You must take this weight into account before stepping onto the roof.

Pitched or pointed

After 1976, many RV manufacturers switched from flat to pitched roofs. A pitched roof allows snow, water, and other substances to drain naturally, reducing the chance of weight and water damage.

Walking on a pitched roof is more difficult than traversing a flat one. Even a slight, subtle angle increases the risk of slipping. While all pitched roofs pose risks, those with a metal surface are dangerous.

Warning signs – before you go on a roof

Never ignore the following warning signs that your roof is unsafe for you:

Sag: Not all of the sag is visible. If the roof feels spongy or springy under your feet, get off it immediately.

: Not all deflections are visible. If the roof feels spongy or springy under your feet, get off it immediately. Leak: Going onto your roof to fix a small leak is usually safe, but when your roof is ejecting multiple leaks in multiple areas, it’s often a sign of significant structural damage.

: Going onto your roof to fix a small leak is usually safe, but when your roof has multiple leaks in multiple areas, it’s often a sign of significant structural damage. Noise: When walking onto your roof, be alert for loud or sustained creaking noises as these could indicate structural weaknesses.

When in doubt, stay away from your roof. Even a small miscalculation can result in serious injury.

frequently asked Questions

How can I make the roof of my RV stronger?

If your home’s roof is older, you may be able to improve it by reinforcing your existing trusses, installing new trusses on the walls, and repairing damaged decking such as old clapboards. Keep in mind that not all older roofs can be repaired; replacement may be necessary.

Why do you have to walk on the roof of an RV?

Access to the roof is often helpful for routine maintenance such as B. removing leaves and other dirt. It is also sometimes necessary to troubleshoot minor problems such as leaks.

How long do shingles last on an RV roof?

Quality shingles can last up to 30 years, although this is a best-case scenario. In general, you should consider reroofing after 15 years or possibly less depending on the temperatures and weather conditions in your area.

Conclusion

Can you walk on an RV roof? Yes, but before you do that you need to consider many factors such as: B. the age of the roof, the type of materials used and possible damage.

Climbing onto your roof allows you to perform routine maintenance, make minor repairs, and more. Luckily, you can safely access the roof of your RV as long as you take the appropriate measures to mitigate potential hazards.