Mold In Tarantula Enclosure? Trust The Answer

The Ickiest Thing competition is about spiders and mold. Personally, I’m into mold. To demonstrate their clear superiority over spiders, I now present these two images of death, captured in glorious detail by photographer Kent Loeffler.

That first little fungus, a mold called Nomuraea atypicola, isn’t dangerous to either you or me, but as you can see, it’s a mortal enemy of spiders. It doesn’t just grow on the spider like a bad case of athlete’s foot. No, it consumed it from the inside and is now forming a cajillion of pink spores on the carcass. Sort of like the old movie Invasion of the Body Snatchers. This spider is completely dead.

Quicktime 5+ object

Rotatable, zoomable Quicktime object by Kent Loeffler

Here’s another one, related but quite different. This is Gibellula pulchra, another spider pathogen. It also only kills and infects spiders when fungal spores land on the unfortunate spider. These spores germinate and penetrate directly through the exoskeleton, then the fungus begins to grow inside the spider. It grows and grows until it has digested the whole spider. Fungi digest their food by secreting their digestive enzymes directly into it and then absorbing the products of digestion – this may not be very pleasant for the spider. The fungus doesn’t bother eating the exoskeleton, which is tough and chitinous and difficult to digest. Therefore, the carcass is still recognizable as a spider.

When all the devouring is over, it’s time to sporulate. Now the fungus erupts from the corpse, forming the tiny trees of leaves you see covering the spider’s body. The trees (ok, they’re called synnemata) produce vitamin-shaped spores that are believed to be carried by the wind to unfortunate spiders. Fungi are classified according to how they form their spores. Gibellula species make these tiny trees; Nomuraea species do not. There are hundreds of mold species – each producing their spores in different ways.

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Rotatable, zoomable Quicktime object by Kent Loeffler

We don’t know too much about how these pathogens affect spider ecology. How do they affect spider populations? How many times can spiders fight off a fungal infection? How are they transferred? How Many Spider Species Are Susceptible? And I can anticipate your inevitable question: How can I use this to kill the spiders in my house? I have no answers for you. In the basement of my old house, without my help, Pholcid spiders often died from fungal infections. They were suffering from another mold, Engyodontium aranearum, which unfortunately never managed to kill ALL of my spiders.

On days like these I wonder how did I get to this strange place? I don’t know but I love this stuff.

Hi! I’m Dan, welcome to Terrarium Tribe. We are a collective of people who love building and maintaining plant terrariums. Join us!

Mold can have many health effects. In some people, mold can cause a stuffy nose, a sore throat, coughing or wheezing, burning eyes, or a skin rash. Severe reactions can occur in people with asthma or mold allergies. People with weakened immune systems and people with chronic lung diseases can get infections in the lungs from mold.

There’s always some mold there. Molds have existed on earth for millions of years. Mold can enter your home through open doors, windows, vents, and heating and air conditioning systems. Mold in outdoor air can be brought indoors via clothing, shoes, bags, and even pets.

Mold grows where moisture is present, e.g. B. around leaks in roofs, windows or pipes or where there has been a flood. Mold grows on paper, cardboard, ceiling tiles and wood. Mold can also grow in dust, paint, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

If you have mold in your home

Mold can look like spots. It can be many different colors and smell musty. If you see or smell mold, you should remove it. You don’t need to know the type of mold.

If mold is growing in your home, you need to get rid of the mold and fix the moisture problem. Mold can be removed from hard surfaces with household products, soap and water, or a bleach solution of no more than 1 cup of household bleach to 1 gallon of water.

If you use bleach to get rid of mold

Never mix bleach with ammonia or other household cleaners. Mixing bleach with ammonia or other cleaning products creates a toxic gas.

Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using bleach or other cleaning products.

Open windows and doors for fresh air.

Wear rubber boots, rubber gloves and safety goggles while cleaning the affected areas.

If you need to clean more than 10 square feet, see the US Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) guide titled Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings for advice on all building types. You can access it on the EPA website at https://www.epa.gov/mold/mold-remediation-schools-and-commercial-buildings-guide external icon.

To prevent mold growth in your home

Keep the humidity in your home as low as possible throughout the day – no higher than 50%. An air conditioner or dehumidifier will help you keep the level down. You can purchase a meter at a hardware store to check the humidity in your home. Humidity changes throughout a day, so you need to check humidity more than once a day.

Make sure the air in your house flows freely. In the kitchen and bathroom, use exhaust fans that vent outside of your home. Make sure your tumble dryer is vented outside of your home.

Fix any leaks in your home’s roof, walls, or plumbing so mold doesn’t have moisture to grow.

Clean and dry your home quickly and completely (within 24-48 hours) after a flood.

Add mold inhibitors to paint before painting. You can buy mold inhibitors at paint and hardware stores.

Clean bathrooms with mildew-killing products.

Remove or replace carpets and upholstery that are soaked and cannot be dried immediately. Remember not to use rugs in places like bathrooms or basements that can have a lot of moisture.

To learn more about preventing mold in your home, read the Environmental Protection Agency’s book A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home at https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2016 -10/documents/ moldguide12.pdf pdf icon [PDF – 1.38 MB] external icon .

Basic Tarantula Grooming DISCLAIMER:

There is no guarantee that the information contained in this care sheet is 100% accurate, or any applicable rule for keeping tarantulas. Since there are many care alternatives, this information is based on my own experiences and preferences. It is not intended to negate or argue with other methods of care. It is always recommended to gather additional information about the species you intend to keep. HOUSING Choosing the right housing for your new tarantula is very important to ensure a successful life in captivity. Things to consider are the size of the container, ventilation, and height/floor space requirements depending on whether you have a terrestrial, burrowing, or arboreal tarantula. Other things like substrate (the layer of medium on the bottom of the cage, such as vermiculite, peat moss, soil, or coco coir) and furnishings also play a role in properly housing your pet tarantula. cage size

First, let’s start with the size of the container. Spiderlings should be kept in a small container such as a clean sterile deli cup or plastic vial with holes punched in the lid for ventilation. Most spiderlings are purchased with a leg span of 1/4″ to 1″. The best sized container for these spiders should be around 2 inches in diameter and 1.5 inches high for terrestrial species (see photo below). For tree species that require more height, a container that is 2 inches in diameter and 3.5 inches tall will do. For 1 inch or larger tarantulas, use a container 4 inches in diameter and 2.5 inches high for terrestrial species. For 1 inch or larger tree dwellers, use a container that is 4 inches in diameter and 6 inches high. Housing your spiderlings in an appropriately sized container will greatly increase their chances of survival. Housing a spider in a container that is too large will result in the spider becoming overwhelmed with space and less likely to catch prey. This can lead to poor growth and eventually death. As your spider molts and grows larger, you can gradually increase the size of its cage. Most species can be relocated to something larger every 6 months to a year. At 3″ or larger, your tarantula is ready for a large cage, like a 5 or 10 gallon tank or my large terrestrial/arboreal cages. Ventilation

Next there is the ventilation factor. Ventilation plays a key role in controlling the humidity in your tarantula’s habitat. Too little ventilation combined with too much humidity creates a saturated environment that can lead to mold/fungus growth and too high humidity. Mold growth should be avoided as it can kill your tarantula, especially spiders. On the other hand, too much ventilation can cause dryness and dehydration, which can prevent proper moulting. Spiderlings are very susceptible to dehydration and death without adequate moisture. To increase ventilation, simply punch holes with a thumbtack or other sharp tool. You can also use a fine-tipped soldering iron to melt holes in plastic. For rigid plastic, you can use a hand drill with a bit small enough to prevent escaping. Screen tops can be partially covered with plastic wrap and tape to create higher humidity. substrate

The choice of substrate for your tarantula’s cage is important and comes down to personal preference. The species to be cared for also plays a role in the decision for the substrate. Commonly used products are peat moss, horticultural vermiculite, potting soil and shredded coir. In general, you should use a substrate that suits your tarantula’s needs. Tombs need a substrate with a texture that stays compact lest it collapse over time. Tropical species need a substrate that will hold moisture for adequate moisture. Overall, I prefer horticultural vermiculite because it’s sterile, durable, odorless, and nontoxic. It has the highly desirable property of being lightweight and having the ability to retain moisture well. The amount of substrate depends on the type and size of the container. Typically, you can fill the container 2/3 full for burrowing land species and 1/3 full for arboreal species. Too little substrate will not allow digging or maintain proper moisture levels. furnishings

My favorite furnishings are cork bark and peat moss. Both offer a natural look and provide a safe hiding place for your tarantula. For land tarantulas, simply place a slightly concave piece of cork bark for them to hide underneath. Use a flat piece of bark against the back wall or corner of the cage for tree displays. Sphagnum moss looks great and allows spiders to hide in it. WATERING AND MOISTURE Providing your tarantula with water is a very simple but crucial part of its care. Care must be taken not to overwater or underwater your spider’s container. Wetness promotes the growth of fungi and bacteria. Underwatering can lead to dehydration or dehydration. To give spiders water, simply spray one side of the substrate with a spray bottle and let it soak. Spiders drink drops of water from the side of the container or from the moistened substrate. Larger tarantulas will need a small bottle cap or bowl to drink from. Adding clean rocks to the shell will prevent crickets or other prey from drowning in the shell. Be sure to clean the water bowl if it seems dirty. Humidity is regulated by the amount of water you introduce into the cage, as well as ventilation. Simply offer dry climate species a bowl of water to drink. There is no need to moisten their substrate unless they are smaller than 2.5 cm. For tropical species that require more humidity, simply dampening the substrate and misting the cage regularly will keep the humidity high, and the tarantula will also drink water beads from the walls of the cage. Always have a water dish available, even if you use mist to water FEED When you first get your tarantula, do not try to feed it right away – it will starve you right away. After a day or two, allow your tarantula to get oriented and settle in before offering a meal. Tarantulas feed on insects and other invertebrates. Common prey items include crickets, mealworms, fruit flies, and cockroaches. Crickets are the main staple food in captivity. They can be purchased locally at a pet store or online through various cricket farms. If you only have a single or small number of tarantulas, the best way is to purchase them from a local pet store. If you have a larger collection, plan to buy them in bulk from a cricket farm. Some hobbyists breed and raise their own cricket stock. How to keep the crickets alive can be researched by reading about them online. When you’re ready to offer food to your tarantula, you need to choose the right size prey. As a general rule, you should feed them items that are about half their size or smaller. Spiderlings usually start out on a diet of 1/8″ or pinhead crickets. Such small crickets usually have to be purchased online as most pet stores only carry larger crickets. You can also cut crickets into smaller “bite-sized” portions for the very small spiderlings you will die still eat dead prey while the spider can find it. 2″ or larger tarantulas will eat adult crickets, mealworms, and roaches. The frequency and amount of feeding depends on the current size of your tarantula and how fast you want your tarantula to grow. Normally, a tarantula can eat about 2 to 3 crickets at a time. Growing spiders need to be fed twice a week, more mature tarantulas should be fed at least once a week. If your spider refuses or shies away from prey, the prey may be too large, or the spider may be close to molting. Try to choose smaller prey or remove them altogether if the spider shows signs of molting. If uneaten prey is not removed, it can die and create an unsanitary environment, and can also be dangerous for your tarantula while it molts. Crickets can even kill your vulnerable tarantula while it’s molting, so always remove uneaten prey. MOUSE MOUSE is the process by which your tarantula outgrows its old exoskeleton to reveal its newly formed, larger body. Skinning renews all body tissues, including the inner lining of their internal organs! You will also regenerate any lost limbs over time. The signs that indicate molting are darker coloration, decreased activity, bulging abdomen, and refusal to eat. When a tarantula is about to molt, it must not eat for at least a week before molting. Remove all uneaten prey within 24 hours of introduction. Prey left with a molting tarantula can cause stress and have been known to injure or even kill them. Be sure to maintain proper humidity levels as your tarantula approaches a molt. If your tarantula is a species that requires less moisture, consider misting a corner of its enclosure to ensure adequate moisture for easier moulting. Your tarantula will lie on its back during the molting cycle. Don’t be alarmed, it’s not dead. Don’t disturb or feed your tarantula for at least three days after molting. Baby tarantulas take several days to harden and regain their normal color and mobility after moulting. Adults can take weeks. READ! Don’t consider this general care sheet the only source of information about caring for your tarantula. All species require individual care needs and deserve the appropriate attention. There are many books and lots of information on the internet. Although care methods for your tarantulas are subject to personal opinion and preference, you should be wary of inaccurate suggestions or advice from self-proclaimed experts or pet shops. This hobby can be very rewarding if you educate yourself about the animal you will be caring for. ASK? Contact me

Terrariums make interesting and long lasting mini plant gardens/decorations. However, some mistakes in making or maintaining a terrarium can cause it to go bad and cause plants to die too quickly. Why is my terrarium dying? In this post you will find reasons why terrariums are dying and what you can do to fix and prevent these problems.

Some of the main reasons why terrariums die are overwatering of plants or soil, using wrong containers for terrariums, mixing plants with different needs, placing terrariums in wrong places.

Reason #1: Overwatering of plants or soil

Overwatering plants in the terrarium is one of the most common mistakes and reasons for terrarium death. Too much water causes mold and plant rot. That’s because most terrarium plants don’t need a lot of water. Also, terrariums lack drainage holes, making the plants prone to rot.

Signs that you have overwatered your terrarium plants are discolored brown or white leaves. Leaves can also lose their firmness and become soft on succulents. When a plant begins to rot, leaves and stems can look like they are melting with softness.

To confirm that you have overwatered your succulents, look at their roots. Rot roots are brown and not normally white/yellowish.

If some roots of your plant are brown, you can save the plant by removing the affected roots. But if the plant feels soft and crumbles, it means it’s rotted. The roots also turn brown.

With air plants, rot and overwatering is not as common as it is with succulents. This is because they are not planted in soil and tend to absorb as much water as needed.

However, you must ensure that air plants dry out completely after watering (turn upside down to dry if soaked). Also, do not leave water between the leaves.

Here you can read instructions for terrarium watering.

Reason #2: Put plants in wrong containers

When constructing a terrarium, make sure that you only use suitable plants in specific containers. There are open and closed containers, and you cannot grow most plants in closed terrariums.

For example, all succulents, including cacti, can only be planted in an open terrarium. That’s because succulents come from hot parts of the world, where they have fast-draining soil, good aeration, and low humidity. Do not use succulents for closed terrariums.

The same goes for air plants. Air plants need a proper watering about once a week, but they do need good air exchange. Enclosed terrariums do not offer this, so your tillandsias could die in an enclosed terrarium.

Carnivorous plants need at least a slightly open terrarium. Although they like moist soil, they need a lot of warmth – which you can’t provide in an enclosed terrarium. When direct light hits the terrarium, the plants inside are cooked.

The most suitable plants for closed terrariums are mosses, lichens, ferns, some tropical plants. A list of plants for closed and open terrariums can be found here.

Reason #3: Mixing plants with different requirements

Since plants have different care requirements, you cannot mix some of them together. For example, you can mix different types of succulents as their care is pretty similar.

However, do not mix carnivorous plants with other plant species. Carnivorous plants need more light, more water and a hibernation. You can mix mosses/lichens with carnivorous plants.

You should also avoid mixing live moss (there are non-living mosses that are fine, such as reindeer moss) with plants that require dry conditions.

However, if you have more experience with plants, you can create a terrarium with mixed plants. For example, you can mix succulents and mosses or air plants together.

But in this case, you would need to grow the succulents in a separate pot in a terrarium to allow their soil to drain properly. You would also need to mask it to make it visually appealing.

Reason #4: Plants are too big

Yes, if your plants grow too long in a terrarium there is a higher risk of them dying. This is because long plants touch the sides of the terrarium and catch water that can cause plant rot.

If your plants grow too long or too tall, be sure to prune them a bit. It’s always a good idea to choose slow-growing plants for a terrarium.

If your succulents are starting to get thin and leggy, it may indicate a lack of sunlight. Solve the problem by placing the terrarium in a bright but indirect light. If you tilt to one side, you will need to rotate your terrarium about once a week so that all parts of a terrarium receive enough sunlight.

Instructions for pruning terrarium plants can be found here.

Reason #5: Too much fertilization

Avoid over-fertilizing plants as this will result in faster growth. Carnivorous plants, for example, can die from heavy fertilization because they naturally grow in nutrient-poor soil and instead feed on insects.

Most terrarium plants do not need to be fertilized. If you wish, you can fertilize your air plants once every 2 months with higher nitrogen and potassium fertilizers.

There are sprays that you can use more frequently and spray plants directly in a terrarium, like this one. They are usually great to use during the growth phase.

Reason #6: Lack of light

Most terrarium plants need bright but indirect sunlight. Succulents, air plants, and carnivorous plants need plenty of bright but indirect light. Mosses also need indirect light, but just as much. If you see black leaves, it can indicate low light and overwatering.

Lack of light leads to wilted, discolored leaves. Succulents begin to lean to one side or form thin stems (to “stretch” and get more light). Southern windows are better for bright light during midday. West-facing windows get plenty of light, but you can keep your terrarium away from direct light.

If you don’t have enough light in your room, you can get artificial light to make your plants happy. Lamps that you can use for your terrarium are fluorescent and LED lamps like these. Place the fluorescent light about 25 cm from your terrarium and about 51 cm from LED lights.

You should place the light even further away to create a well-lit area. Placing the light too close will encourage faster growth which you don’t need for terrarium plants. Remember, your goal is to create bright conditions without a lot of direct light.

You can also choose a compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) in a table lamp if you have one to a few terrariums. Position the light a little further away as it can become intense if positioned too close.

Reason #7: Too much light and heat

Your terrarium plants may die due to too much light and/or heat. For example, don’t put your terrarium where direct unfiltered light hits it for more than an hour. While you can place your terrarium near the window, don’t place it on a windowsill with full sun.

Instead, place it a little further away so that it’s in bright light without direct light falling on it. If using artificial light, follow the guidelines for the distance of the light from your terrarium. Signs of too much light and heat are dry dead leaves.

Also, make sure you don’t place your terrarium near a hot heater. Too much heat can quickly kill your plants in the terrarium. If you want to read more tips on how much light terrariums need, read this post.

Reason #8: Under Irrigation

If you put your terrarium plants under water, they can die. Sometimes it is difficult to know how much water to give your terrarium plants and many people make mistakes here. This is normal and all part of a learning experience.

Signs that you are not watering your plants enough are falling leaves, shriveled and dry leaves, brown spots on the leaves. For example, under irrigated air, plants develop dry and crusty leaves. Yellow leaves also indicate underwatering. Remove any yellow leaves as they will not turn green again.

Succulents, for example, store water in their cells, and when they have enough water, the plant is hard and strong, standing upright at its fullest. With a lack of water, the plant loses its internal pressure, becomes soft and can even buckle.

Before watering your succulents, feel the soil and make sure it is dry before watering again. In general, you should water about once a week during the summer (using about a quarter cup of water for small to medium sized containers). Water every 2 weeks in winter.

Carnivorous plants love lots of water in the soil. So make sure you water the soil 1-2 times a week depending on the time of year. Only use distilled or bottled water as carnivorous plants are very sensitive to water quality (chemicals, pollution etc.).

Air plants can be watered in a variety of ways – submerging, rinsing, and spraying. If you want to learn more about watering air plants, please read this post.

Reason No. 9: Lack of terrarium care

In order for your terrarium to have a long life, you still need to take care of it from time to time. And it doesn’t just involve casting. Be sure to clean the inside of the terrarium glass if you see dirt etc.

If your terrarium fogs up every now and then, that’s okay. But if there are constant drops of water, open the terrarium lid for a day once a week or wipe it with a tissue.

Also make sure you remove any dead leaves etc. from your terrarium as soon as you see them. This is because it can lead to the development of mold and fungi as they feed on decaying organic matter. Then you can see fungi growing in the soil – but real fungi are not harmful to your plants.

You can read more about mushrooms in the terrarium here.

Also, make sure you get rid of any mold that you see as soon as possible. Otherwise, it can spread to other parts of the plant and kill them as well.

If a plant is only partially affected, you can cut off the affected part and replant. But if it feels soft and most of the plant body is rotten/mouldy, throw it away and use a new healthy plant.

If you don’t remove dead leaves and overwater the soil, you also risk fungus gnats (small flies) in your terrarium.

Reason #10: Lack of airflow

If you don’t allow air to circulate, your terrarium will begin to fog up and plants may begin to rot and die. This is especially true for succulents (including cacti) and air plants.

Succulents and air plants need good air circulation to ensure the soil dries out and water isn’t trapped between their leaves. Carnivorous plants love bright light, but without good air circulation (in a closed terrarium) they will get cooked due to the high heat.

So make sure you plant them in open terrariums. Carnivorous plants can be planted in a more enclosed terrarium, but it must have an opening for your plant to last. Read more about carnivorous plants here (new tab).

Reason #11: Don’t add a charcoal layer

When building a terrarium you need to put a layer of charcoal on the bottom. Since terrariums have no drainage holes, excess water cannot escape. The exchange of air in a terrarium is also limited, as is the space for plants.

The charcoal layer helps fight fungi and mold, keeps the terrarium clean and absorbs bad odours. It acts as a purifier, which is essential in a small enclosed space.

When building a succulent terrarium you will need layers in this order:

Filler/Drainage – Sand or stones of any type or color

Separator – coffee filters, construction paper, cheesecloth, etc.

activated carbon layer

soil mix

plants and decorations

When building a terrarium with air plants, you don’t need to use a layer of charcoal or soil. Air plants are best misted moderately or removed for soaking or rinsing if possible. Layers for air plant terrariums only consist of a dry filling (sand, stones, wood, dry canned food, moss, etc.) and plants with decoration.

In summary, you should use a charcoal layer for all plants that require soil and water in the terrarium. If you don’t have a layer of charcoal in a terrarium, it’s more likely to start dying sooner.

Reason #12: Using the wrong type of soil

Different types of plants need to be planted in different types of soil. For example, succulents (including cacti) need faster draining and porous soil. The best choice is to use a succulent and cactus soil mix like this one. You can also use palm or citrus potting soil for succulents.

Air plants do not need to be planted in soil and make sure any filler underneath is dry. Any wet or damp medium will cause the plant to rot.

Carnivorous plants need soil that can hold water but also allows for good drainage. You can find ready-made mixtures, which often contain peat moss, vermiculite, perlite. Don’t use general potting soil for growing carnivorous plants or they won’t last too long. And only water with distilled, bottled or reverse osmosis water.

Thank you for reading this post! If you want to learn more about terrarium care, visit this resource page.

People with mold in their homes often notice an increase in the number of house bugs. It is therefore appropriate to ask whether mold and insects are related. Well they are. Mold – and the environment that fosters it – attracts insects in many forms.

Conditions conducive to mold growth

Mold and bugs are attracted to the same environment, one with heat and high humidity. Mold needs at least about 70 percent relative humidity to grow in temperatures as low as 60 degrees. And some species of insects, like camel crickets, centipedes, and cockroaches, need a lot of water. Therefore, they seek out humid environments in houses and other buildings. The more moisture you have, the more of these bugs you are likely to find. Moisture also attracts underground termites, which feed on wooden supports.

If you have mold and bugs, you need to address the sources of moisture first. Moisture can get into your home in a number of ways: leaky roofs, leaky pipes, unventilated bathrooms, spills, drafts and your crawl space to name a few.

To reduce humidity, you need to contact the professional who can address the source. For any moisture problem in the crawl space, Yes Pest Pros in Columbus and Bloomington, Indiana can provide the services you need.

Mold itself attracts insects

However, beetles need more than just moisture to survive. They need food, and mold is a food source. Many beetles feed on mold and decomposing substances. Book lice, for example, often inhabit moldy books. Fungus gnats and mold mites are two other pests closely associated with mold.

Cockroaches, camel crickets, snails and centipedes are also attracted to mold, but not because they feed on it. They are attracted to the organic matter that helps mold break down and decompose.

The smell of mold also attracts insects. Many types of mold produce gases called microbial volatile organic compounds (MVOCs). People often associate these gases with the musty smell of mold. We may not like these smells, but insects do. Termites are one such bug that are attracted to mold smells. Because mold breaks down wood, it makes tunneling easier for termites. Termites naturally return the favor by giving mold more areas to grow—deeper into the wood.

How to get rid of mold and bugs

As said, the first thing you need to do is address the sources of moisture. After you’ve addressed the sources (or while you’re addressing them) you can then take care of the mold and bugs.

Bugs will likely go away once you deal with mold and moisture. However, if there is a severe infestation, or your home is now home to carpenter ants or termites, you will need a local pest control specialist to exterminate them.

Seemingly every day I get a call or email from a new frog keeper who has discovered an unknown organism in his terrarium. These alien organisms often trigger fear or concern. Are they harmful? Will they hurt my frogs or kill my plants? What is it? Here I will post photos of various unidentified organisms and try to shed some light on what they are, what they do and the like. Remember that mushrooms are generally beneficial to your aquarium. It helps keep things cleaner by breaking down waste into nutrients that plants can use, and often even helps plants grow better! In fact, we designed and manufactured Josh’s Frogs Bioactive Booster to introduce beneficial fungi into your aquarium and help it stabilize faster.

What is it?

A species of neat bracket fungus, a close relative of the fungus.

Is it harmful?

Only if you are allergic to awesome! Bracket fungi are quite uncommon in vivariums as they appear to need decent airflow to thrive. Count yourself lucky and enjoy it while it lasts! Like many mushrooms in the vivarium, they are only visible for a short time before disappearing and sometimes never being seen again. Springtails or isopods in the vivarium will seriously eat mushrooms.

What is it?

It’s a mushroom, and a colorful one at that! What you’re looking at is the fruiting body of the fungus – the bulk of the organism is called the mycelium, which looks like roots and is likely spread throughout the piece of wood the fungus is on, deriving nutrients from the wood as it settles decomposed .

Is it harmful?

Only if you’re a piece of wood. Mushrooms and fungus will cause wood to degrade a little faster in a vivarium, but that’s part of nature. Fungi won’t harm your frogs or plants and can even contribute to a cleaner and healthier vivarium. Enjoy while you can – mushrooms usually only last a day or two.

What is it?

The powdery white growth appears to be a variety of mold (sometimes called powdery mildew). Mold likes to grow on wet, nutrient-rich surfaces.

Is it harmful?

Mold will not harm your plants or frogs and is a perfectly normal part of the cycle process of a new vivarium. Expect a lot of mold in the first 6 months or so. Mold comes in many different colors – the most common are white or green. Springtails and isopods make short work of any mold infestation.

What is it?

An alien. Kill it with fire. No, I’m just kidding! This is a slime mold. Slime molds are fairly uncommon in vivariums, but appear randomly from time to time. In the years that I’ve worked with vivariums, I’ve only seen a handful of slime molds. Slime molds are not true fungi, but they serve many of the same purposes in a vivarium. The slime mold pictured is actually a colony of several thousand normally unicellular organisms that gather when food is scarce.

Is it harmful?

Slime molds are completely harmless, although their appearance in a vivarium can be quite frightening. Like mushrooms, they are often gone very soon after they are first seen.

What is it?

Another type of mushroom. This one might not be as colorful as the orange one shown previously, but it makes up for its pale complexion with numbers! When this fungus appeared in a vivarium, several hundred of them were visible. In a few days nobody was to be seen.

Is it harmful?

nope

What is it?

This appears to be an unusually colored blue mold.

Is it harmful?

I wouldn’t recommend inhaling it, but it won’t harm your plants or frogs. Springtails or isopods make short work of it.

Will your frog tank be invaded by aliens? Do you have something in your vivarium that needs to be identified? Email us a picture at [email protected] and let us identify it for you! If it’s cool or unique enough, your photo can even end up here!

White Mold: Is It Dangerous and How to Remove It?

White mold is lesser known but still an incredibly dangerous species of mold to deal with. If you’re ever unsure of what type you have, it’s important to call in certified professionals to provide mold testing services right away. With this in mind, we have learned a lot about white mold in our many years of mold inspection and remediation. Here’s everything you need to know – and more!

Mold is a naturally occurring fungus, similar to mushrooms and yeast. Hundreds of mold species can be found both indoors and outdoors. While many of these species are perfectly safe, others can be dangerous to your health, especially if they are growing in your home.

While most people focus on black mold, also known as Stachybotrys, few worry about the growth of white mold in a building or home. However, white mold can also be very dangerous and should be treated as soon as possible.

In this article, we will outline the best ways to spot white mold in your home and safely remove it.

What is white mold?

White resembles many other molds and thrives in wet or musty environments. Many homeowners don’t realize they have a white mold problem because of the color, making it difficult to spot. It can grow on plants, fabric, food, and other organic materials such as drywall, wood, and carpet. This not only endangers your health, but also the structural safety of your house.

What does white mold look like?

White mold can either remain white or change to green, black, gray, or virtually any other color over time.

White mold is very difficult to spot early in its development because the spores are so tiny that they can only be seen under a microscope. However, once colonies form, white mold appears as spots on a surface. At first glance, they can be scaly, powdery, fibrous, or paper-thin. They can also resemble powdery mildew, which represents the early stages of mold. However, powdery mildew is relatively harmless compared to white mold, which can grow not only on surfaces but also deep within organic materials.

Pictures of white mold

What is the difference between white mold and black mold?

Black mold (Stachybotrys chartarum) is one of the most well-known types of mold as it is the most damaging of all indoor molds. It is typically greenish-black in color, making it easy to distinguish, especially when growing in areas of high humidity. Black mold is considered a highly toxic mold and poses terrible health risks.

On the other hand, white mold is a powdery, fibrous, flaky, or film-like substance that can change color or remain white, making identification difficult. In general, white mold poses less of a health risk than black mold.

How to distinguish between white mold and efflorescence?

White mold and efflorescence look very similar. In fact, they are so similar that people often confuse one with the other. Both are white in color and can be found on walls and other building materials. Understanding what both substances are and how they form can help you determine which one is in your home.

So what is efflorescence? Simply put, efflorescence is salt deposits commonly found on concrete and brick. It is formed when water evaporates from concrete or brick, leaving a salty residue on the material’s surface. However, efflorescence only causes cosmetic damage and does not endanger the stability of your house. It also poses no risk to your health.

Tips for distinguishing between white mold and efflorescence:

Efflorescence dissolves in water – mold doesn’t

Efflorescence is typically found on concrete and brick, while mold grows on organic materials like wood and drywall

White mold is a living organism (fungus) while efflorescence is simply salt deposits

Efflorescence is not harmful. It won’t make you sick, but white mold will.

White mold emits a distinctive odor while efflorescence does not occur.

What is white fuzzy mold?

This is a type of mold with a white fuzzy appearance caused by the airborne spores of the fungus. The mold is also known as powdery mildew due to its powdery appearance and texture.

White fuzzy mold usually affects established plants and vegetation. In some cases, it can even cover the entire plant, including its buds and fruits. It can also spread via the stems and leaves of indoor and outdoor houseplants.

Other common places that encourage white fuzzy mold growth include furniture surfaces, clothing and textiles, groceries, crawl space, and attic paneling and frames. Allowing this mold to spread in your home can cause allergic reactions in emotional people.

White mold species

Types of mold that mostly appear white and have a powdery texture are referred to as white mold. The most popular of these species to grow in homes are Aspergillus, Penicillium, and Cladosporium.

White is one of the colors that these molds appear; They also appear in other colors like green, black, or gray. It is therefore impossible to determine the exact type of mold by color. You need a mold test to determine the specific type of mold growth on your property.

Did you know? Penicillium/Aspergillus group is the most common type of toxic mold found in homes we tested?! Find out more exciting mold statistics and facts on our mold statistics page.

aspergillus

Aspergillus is a genus made up of 100 different species of mold from all different climates. Aspergillus is usually woolly or cottony in texture. Its varieties include Aspergillus fumigatus, Aspergillus flavus, and Aspergillus niger. These species of mold vary from blue-green hues to yellow-green colors.

The mold genus Aspergillus often produces allergic reactions. Its effects can lead to more serious health problems, such as aspergillosis (a type of lung disease).

penicillium

Penicillium usually appears white and sometimes shades of pink or yellow and has a powdery texture. His musty smell can identify him. Penicillium can cause several allergies, including pneumonia and hay fever. They can be used in cheese making and are known as the main ingredient in penicillin-based antibiotics.

Cladosporium

Cladosporium appears olive gray and has a velvety texture. It causes allergic reactions, especially in infants. It also causes infections in the eyes, toenails, and fingernails. They can be found indoors and outdoors – most commonly on living or dead plant materials.

What Causes White Mold?

Like other molds, white mold grows due to high humidity combined with the presence of a food source and the right temperature. Common food sources for white mold include wood, drywall, carpeting, laminate, insulation, and any other organic, carbon-rich material.

The best temperatures for mold to grow are between 2 and 40 degrees Celsius.

When white mold spreads, it eats the material it’s growing on. When it comes to drywall or wood beams, white mold can cause both cosmetic and structural damage to your home.

Where do you find white mold in your home?

White mold can grow virtually anywhere in your home as long as the three conditions listed above (humidity, food source, temperature) are met. However, some areas of your home are more likely to encourage mold growth than others.

Here are the seven of the most common places we find white mold in homes:

White mold in the basement

Have you ever noticed that your basement tends to be cooler than any other room in your house? While this can provide some much-needed comfort during the hot summer months, it can also encourage mold growth. Here’s how. When warm outside air hits the cold basement walls, it condenses, creating droplets of moisture on the walls. If this moisture is not dried immediately, mold will soon begin to grow on your basement walls.

Moisture from the soil outside can also bring additional moisture into the basement, creating a wet and humid environment perfect for mold growth. And because basements often lack adequate ventilation (and are prone to flooding), they’re great breeding grounds for white mold.

You can tell if you have mold in your basement by an earthy or musty smell, condensation on the walls, bubbling paint or wallpaper, and discoloration on the walls, ceiling, carpet, or furniture. If you notice anything that looks like efflorescence, examine it closely and remember the tips we gave you for distinguishing between white mold and efflorescence. White mold looks white, cottony, scaly, and fibrous and grows on organic materials.

White mold in attics

Attics contain many food sources for mold, including wood and insulation. For example, roof leaks from rain or melting snow, condensation from temperature changes, and/or leaky pipes can give mold the moisture it needs to thrive in attics.

White mold in crawl space

Crawl spaces tend to be very tight spaces that are difficult to dry once moisture gets inside. Several reasons mold tends to grow in crawl spaces include leaky pipes and plumbing, high humidity levels due to poor ventilation, and cracks in the foundation that allow water and moisture to seep in. For all of these reasons, many people question the practicality and necessity of crawl spaces.

White mold on carpets

As most of us know, wet carpets are very difficult to dry, especially when it’s not just a small spill but a major leak or flood. Then bacteria and mold have the opportunity to multiply. It’s important not to design your home underground or in spaces prone to spills, high humidity, and flooding (e.g., basements, kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms). Luckily, moldy carpets are pretty easy to spot as they give off a strong musty smell and cause allergic reactions. Try to clean and dry wet carpets promptly to prevent mold from spreading to the subfloor. If so, you’ll likely need to remove and replace your entire flooring system.

White mold on wood

Unfortunately, white mold loves wood, which means your hardwood floors, furniture, cabinetry, and structural components of your home (beams, beams, etc.) are all at risk. If you’ve recently had moisture ingress, look out for the most common sign of white mold on wood: discoloration in the form of white spots or spots.

White mold on plants and potting soil

White mold that grows on plants or vegetation is called Sclerotinia. Because mold spores can easily become airborne, it’s important to control the problem right away.

There are several signs of mold growth on plants. Water spots appear at the root, although the rest of the plant looks healthy. The plant may be wilted and discolored at the root. Or there may be brown lesions on the plant and a dense white cotton patch will form from these lesions.

White mold can also appear on and spread through potting soil. Overwatering a plant, poor drainage, and old soil can encourage mold growth. The best mold prevention for plants is not to overwater them, remove disease-carrying weeds, use fresh soil, and remove as much crop residue as possible after harvest. Mold spores survive winter conditions, so it’s best to fix the problem as soon as you see it.

White mold in your car

While your car isn’t technically your home, it’s still one of the most common places we’ve found white mold. The truth is, moisture can easily get into your car, whether it’s through the air conditioner, a poorly sealed window, a poorly sealed door or sunroof, something spilled, or just an open window. Once mold starts growing in your car, it can quickly spread to upholstery, carpets, and seats, eventually destroying your vehicle. And once mold gets into your car’s air conditioning system, it circulates through the air, exposing you to potentially toxic mold spores. The best indication that your car has mold is white spots or an earthy smell.

White mold on walls/drywall

White mold grows on your walls or drywall in the presence of moisture and low light, which brings forth its nourishment. It can develop anywhere on your building walls, including basements, bathrooms, laundry rooms, kitchens, and other poorly ventilated spaces. Surprisingly, you can also find white mold on your tiled walls.

You can see visible growth of this mold on your damp, painted or wallpapered walls peeling off. Accompanying symptoms are stale odors, damp, cracked paint and dusty or swollen walls.

White mold growth on your drywall can be hazardous to the health of those with allergy symptoms. Its spores can spread from walls to humans, causing health hazards. So before it hits, act fast to hit it first.

White mold on concrete

Mold grows everywhere, but has anyone ever considered that it could grow on concrete? Yes, it does! Mold is often found on concrete basement floors. Typically you will see a fuzzy, white mold growing on the surface of your concrete as moisture rises from the wet soil.

Most often, the mold grows after prolonged moisture or flooding. You can easily recognize it by its distinctive white cotton mycelium.

White mold on concrete can cause health problems including infections, asthma and other respiratory problems. You should prevent mold from growing on your concrete, but if you do find it, get rid of it as soon as possible.

White mold on furniture

In humid conditions, white mold can grow on wood, upholstery, and leather furniture. Over time, mold can degrade the value of furniture and give off an unpleasant musty odor. However, you should recognize the factors that stimulate this growth so you can protect your family from dangerous allergens.

First, it could be because the furniture has been stored damp for a long time before being taken out. But if a piece of furniture suddenly turns white mold, examine the surrounding areas that are likely bringing moisture into the furniture.

When floorboards, windows, and ceilings have cracks and leaks, they can let furniture get damp. These therefore promote the growth of white mold on the piece of furniture.

White mold on cabinets

Are your cabinets safe from white mold? Aside from white mold causing health problems, your cabinets are also prone to destruction. White mold sometimes hides in the cabinet under your sink until it causes a serious problem. But how do you know if there is white mold on your cabinets?

You may see discoloration in the damp areas of your cabinets, which can also give off a stale, musty smell. One of the causes is a leaking pipe, which can trigger moisture under the sink. Poor cleaning and leaving out old groceries can also cause the cupboard to become moldy.

White mold on metal

Anyone might ask, “Can white mold grow on metal?” Due to metal’s non-porous surfaces, mold doesn’t grow directly on it. The accumulation of food spills and other mineral residues on such surfaces can encourage mold growth. Improper ventilation, humidity and humidity contribute to the growth of this fungus on metals such as steel.

Under favorable conditions, both interior and exterior metal materials are susceptible to white mold growth. Ignoring this fungus on your steel, copper, aluminum, and other metal structures can shoot spores of the white mold onto other surrounding materials, such as wood and drywall. It is therefore recommended to roll the spread before things get out of hand.

White mold in the bathroom

White mold in your bathroom can be unsightly and pose health risks for homeowners. Not sure if there is white mold in your bathroom? Check your ceiling; the painted or wallpapered walls, grout and tile grout. These are the most common places mold can develop in your bathroom.

The bathroom has the perfect humidity and temperature conditions for mold growth. Leaking plumbing pipes, sinks, and toilets can encourage fungal growth. Also, the lack of ventilation can lead to persistent dampness. With the well-being of your household in mind, you must get rid of white mold as soon as you spot it.

White mold in the garage

The garage is often dark and damp because it doesn’t get much sunlight when the door is closed. Humidity builds up with musty odors filling the air. And before you know it, you’ll have mold in your garage.

The fuzzy white texture on your garage walls, ceiling or concrete shows the resemblance to white mold growing in the room. Because your garage is often overlooked, white mold in this area of ​​your home can be dangerous.

If you don’t always check your garage, mold smells will increase quickly. The spread of mold spores can damage the affected areas and cost you a lot of money in the long run. Besides, it can also lead to various health problems like asthma.

White mold on tiles

Wondering how white mold gets on the tiles in your bathroom walls, hallways and kitchen floors? This is no longer a surprise since the tiles in these rooms are surrounded by mold-friendly conditions. Raising the room temperature usually causes humidity and humidity where white mold thrives.

Food and drink spills on ceramic walls and floor tiles can cause mold. The grout between the tiles can also harbor white mold, causing the mold spores to spread to other areas in the room. Mold on tiles can be hideous and dangerous to life and property. Therefore, it is important that you seek professional help in the eradication process.

White mold under the floorboards

Have you ever noticed a musty smell anywhere near your plank floor? This is a sign that your wood floor is moldy under perfect conditions. Multiple mold test results show that the most common fungus found among floorboards is white mold.

It’s not surprising that white mold can grow under floorboards. It can be difficult in its early stages of development and can become unsightly under your flooring for long periods of time. Over time, the odor will worsen, causing residents to sneeze and cough.

You need immediate mold remediation to keep your floorboards from damage and your family’s lives safe.

Is White Mold Dangerous?

While powdery mildew and similar types of mold are less dangerous and more of a hindrance, white mold is a health risk. Inhalation of white mold spores, particularly over a long period of time, can cause mold-induced asthma, allergic fungal sinusitis, allergic bronchopulmonary aspergillosis (hazard to asthmatics or cystic fibrosis), and hypersensitivity pneumonitis.

Let’s take a closer look at the health effects of mold:

Allergenic molds cause allergies as well as asthma. When you come into contact with these types of mold, your airways flare up. About 20-30% of people are allergic to mold, which can lead to rhinitis, also known as hay fever. Mild reactions include congestion, rash, and itchy eyes to very severe reactions of swelling, difficulty breathing, vomiting, diarrhea, vomiting, and mental confusion. Pathogenic molds can cause more serious diseases. In people with weakened immune systems, these types of molds can severely affect the person’s already ailing health. Mild reactions include skin irritation, nail infections, and athlete’s foot, while severe reactions include life-threatening organ infections. Toxigenic molds release substances called mycotoxins, which are extremely harmful to humans. Routes of exposure to these molds include ingestion, inhalation, and direct contact (touch). Depending on the individual, length of exposure, and route of exposure, reactions to toxic molds can range from irritation to lifelong illness. Some of these deadly diseases include hormonal imbalances, liver damage, nervous system disorders and cancer.

Most white mold tends to be allergenic or pathogenic. Regardless of the type of mold you find in your home, however, you should always consult qualified professionals to learn how to safely and effectively remove the mold toxin from your home.

How do you recognize white mold?

Most of the time, you can identify white mold by its color, texture, and smell. If it’s fluffy, white, slimy, and carries a specific musty smell, it’s probably white mold. Black or olive-green discoloration, on the other hand, is most likely black mold.

However, mold doesn’t always grow in sight, which is why it’s important to have your home checked for mold as soon as you suspect a problem.

How do I remove white mold?

While some types of mold and mildew can be easily removed with household products like vinegar, white mold is much more difficult (and dangerous) to remove on your own. It may have penetrated deep beneath the surface of the contaminated material, or it may be growing in places you don’t even know.

Additionally, when you do your own mold removal, there is always a risk that you are spreading the contamination and exposing yourself to toxic mold, which can have serious health implications. Additionally, most people don’t have the equipment or expertise to safely and effectively remove toxic mold.

In any case, do not allow mold to grow in your home for a long time. Contact a certified mold removal professional to explore all remediation strategies and help you choose the ones that work best for you.

Conclusion

Because of its changing appearance and tendency to grow in areas of high humidity (similar to black mold), white mold is not the easiest to spot unless you are a trained and experienced mold specialist. Furthermore, correctly identifying white mold is only part of the problem. The other part is to find the moisture problem that is causing the mold growth and get rid of the pollution effectively. It is always better to rely on a reputable mold remediation company.

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Although you actually know the (basic) answer, you can’t help but look for the whole answer. Tarantulas: Do these giant spiders poop? I at least questioned the same thing. Not just out of curiosity, but also what to look out for when cleaning the tarantula enclosure. Because to know if your tarantula is healthy, you also need to know about their poop habits! So, what is there to learn about tarantula poop?

Tarantulas poop like all animals, but their poop is slightly different and can be missed if you don’t know what to look for. Feces and urine come out of the same opening, just like in birds, and it bears a resemblance to bird droppings. Healthy tarantula droppings appear as white, oval droplets.

While it will come as no surprise that tarantulas actually poop (and pee) like any other animal, we can still learn a lot about tarantula pooping.

Tarantula Poop Explained: Some Facts!

So now that we know tarantulas poop, what else is there to learn? Although the digestive tract and tarantula excrement is not a popular area of ​​research, there are some interesting facts about tarantula excrement.

Bird droppings look like bird droppings

The droppings of tarantulas are a prettier version of bird droppings. In other words, tarantula droppings have the same consistency and appearance as bird droppings, but tend to be firmer.

As with birds, the tarantulas’ piss and droppings are mixed into a single fairly solid droppings. They do not produce feces and urine like we do, but produce an almost solid substance called uric acid. The uric acid wastes are combined and excreted directly from the digestive tract along with solid wastes. The uric acid turns the feces whitish. Dark brown/black spots are often found, these are the solid excretions straight from the digestive tract.

This way of breaking down nitrogenous waste keeps valuable water in his body. Tarantulas can’t afford to lose as much water as we mammals (nor can we).

Tarantulas have designated droppings

While that all sounds gross and dirty, tarantulas are pretty neat animals instead. Did you know that tarantulas have designated defecating sites?

Yes that’s right. Cockroaches, stick insects, crickets, grasshoppers, beetles, they all drop poop everywhere, some even practically live in it. Tarantulas don’t poop everywhere. No, instead they meticulously pick spots to drop their poop.

As a result, you’ll often see that there’s only one or two spots in a tarantula enclosure to find their droppings. It is also often the farthest from their hideout or burrow in which they live. This makes it fairly easy to find the droppings and clean the enclosure.

But it’s not just tarantulas that do this, many if not all spiders have specific spots where they drop their droppings. They like to keep their houses clean.

Tarantulas love to poop in the bowl of water

A strange fact is that tarantulas love to poop in the bowl of water. Why this is so is not yet known, but many tarantula keepers (including me) have found that tarantulas prefer to drop them in water.

Note that the shape of the feces changes when it comes into contact with water. It partially dissolves. If you find small white dots in your water bowl, your tarantula has met its needs. And you know it’s time to clean the water bowl (again).

Want to know more about tarantula droppings?

One of the questions that gets asked regularly is how often do they poop? Well, that’s hard to say as it also depends on how regularly they’re fed. However, it appears that tarantulas generally defecate around 24-36 hours after feeding.

It can be difficult to pinpoint how regularly they poop, as they often take their “bath break” at night and faeces are not always found.

poop silk?

OK, I’m immature: silk poop, really? Well, tarantulas are also capable of producing silk and forming webs, and therefore excrete silk from special organs. So you can actually tell they poop silk.

Did you know that they have two different silk production mechanisms? The one that almost everyone knows is in the spinnerets, small appendages at the end of the abdomen. All spiders have these organs. But tarantulas have a second one too: and it’s in their feet!

Yes, research has shown that tarantulas can produce silk in each of their eight legs. Because of their unusual weight, tarantulas are thought to have evolved these organs to be able to climb (flat) surfaces and still maintain their footing. This is why tarantulas are pretty good at climbing glass. So don’t forget to close your lid!

Does tarantula feces smell?

First of all, what is and is not an unpleasant smell is subjective. Although some think tarantula poop smells, it doesn’t have a strong odor. But in general, keeping tarantulas does not smell much at all.

Most unpleasant smells come from feces and uneaten prey that has been in the enclosure for too long. The bacteria that grow on it can create smells that we don’t like. If you keep the enclosure neat and clean, you will have no odor.

Clean bird cage

By learning more about tarantula poop, the way they defecate, and what tarantula poop smells like, we can also learn more about cleaning the enclosure.

Normal tarantula feces are a whitish, oval bolus.

It is meticulously dropped at certain points. Some tarantulas poop on the glass of the enclosure. They keep their hiding places and burrows clean and often defecate on the opposite side of the enclosure.

They also like to defecate in their water dish. Therefore, regular cleaning of the dishes is a necessity.

Depending on how much and how often you feed your tarantula will determine how much and often you find tarantulas pooping.

In general, however, they can find feces within 24 to 36 hours of feeding, although they often tend to meet their needs at night.

Don’t leave feces and uneaten prey in the enclosure for too long when bacteria that produce unpleasant odors begin to grow.

Would you like to know more?

Did you like this article? If you want to learn more about caring for your tarantula, I highly recommend reading this

We also wrote an in-depth article on everything you need to know about tarantula substrate. Read the Did you enjoy this article? If you want to know more about caring for your tarantula, I recommend reading the basic guide to caring for tarantulas. We also wrote an in-depth article on everything you need to know about substrate for tarantulas. Check out the Ratantula substrate guide

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