Motorcycle Detailing Near Me? 102 Most Correct Answers

A dirt bike earns its name for one reason: it gets dirty.

To maximize the longevity and appearance of your bike, be sure to wash it as needed. Here are a few tips.

Avoid caustic or abrasive cleaning agents

Harsh cleaning products can leave residue on anodized aluminum and you don’t want to damage the finish of your beautiful bike. Abrasives can help remove hard-to-clean scuffs or other dirt, but they can damage plastic parts.

PRO TIP: What’s the best way to get those hard-to-clean scuffs off your bike? Samantha Laderer, former Northern Series women’s class winner, recommends a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, which can be found almost anywhere cleaning supplies are sold. “They work wonders removing the black stains your boots leave on your bike,” she said.

Use a mild detergent

A dish soap like Dawn dish soap or a similar brand is great for removing mud, dirt, and other debris from your bike. Best of all, it won’t scratch the plastic or leave a film on metal parts. And it’s affordable and easily available from most retailers. Just mix a little with warm water and clean your bike with a soft brush.

Remove chunks of mud by hand

Before washing, remove any large chunks of dried mud by hand. Dig them out with your fingers or use a rubber mallet or similar soft object to scrape away the mud to protect your future hand modeling career. Do not poke and poke with a screwdriver, metal scraper, or similar objects.

Be careful when washing with high pressure

Some drivers use a pressure washer, others shy away from it. While they can speed up the cleaning process and blast through caked mud, they can deliver a little too much muscle mass if you’re not careful. Avoid spraying the steering head, wheel bearings and chain (if using an O-ring chain) directly. The pressurized water can damage seals and allow water to enter parts and cause corrosion. It is okay to direct a jet of water past these parts, but avoid prolonged and direct exposure.

PRO TIP: Laderer recommends securely securing your bike to the stand while pressure washing. “I’ve seen riders knock their bikes off the stand with a pressure washer before,” she said.

Use a 40 degree nozzle

If you decide to use a pressure washer, install a 40-degree nozzle (many feature a white color). They emit a larger swath of water which is safer for your bike and helps cover a larger area faster. Never use a 0 degree nozzle and blow a jet of water directly onto the bike. If you do, be prepared to replace decals, graphics, and even the odd piece of plastic after they land on the other side of the yard.

Use an airbox washer cover and muffler plug

With an airbox wash cover, you will need to remove the air filter and install the cover to prevent water from entering your engine. In the same way, use a muffler plug to prevent water from ruining the muffler packing. It is also a good precaution to have the piston at top dead center as an added insurance against water entering the engine. You can also use plastic bags to cover the air filter and muffler, but it’s not as effective.

Pay special attention to…

Cooler – Your bike will run cooler when the radiator fins are clean and free of debris. Take a little more time and wash them thoroughly. Here too, however, be careful not to bend the fins during high-pressure washing.

Chain Area – Clean dirt from the chain guide to prevent chafing of the metal chain.

Shift Lever – Make sure the springs are free of dirt and mud.

A ceramic coating on your paint, tubes, chrome, forks and other hard parts not only protects them from road grime and UV fading, but also makes it easier and faster to keep your bike clean.

We’ve heard about products with nano-ceramic properties, but applying them is a long, expensive, and arduous process.

So we went to the pros – Preferred Car Care who are exclusive Ceramic Pro installers in Brisbane and the Gold Coast. Ceramic Pro is available to professionals in more than 70 countries.

Director Justin Harris says they have worked on many top-of-the-line motorcycles and cars, including Ferraris and Harley-Davidsons.

Lasting bond

He says the Ceramic Pro product “bonds permanently” to the underlying layer, whether it’s paint, lacquer, chrome or bare metal.

“It can be applied to anything,” he says.

“You can assume that a single coat of paint on motorcycles will last at least five years. Ceramic Pro can be layered, so additional layers extend its longevity.”

Depending on the composition of the metal, it also prevents some exhaust systems from “blueing”.

We had them apply two coats of Ceramic Pro to our new Ducati Scrambler 1100 Sport paint job, forks, fairings, exhaust, rims and frame, which cost $650.

First they wash and detail the bike, looking for scratches, chips etc to repair before polishing the surfaces.

The first coat of Ceramic Pro is applied by hand and then left to cure before the second coat is applied using a spray gun with a 0.8mm tip.

Justin promised the coating wouldn’t make the Duc’s satin finish shiny, and he was right.

The clear coat is a bit difficult to see due to the seamless application. It just makes the bike “glow”.

Ceramic advantages

The advantages of Ceramic Pro are not only that it protects the paint from UV and environmental influences, but it also makes it easier to maintain its new appearance.

According to Justin, Ceramic Pro creates a “non-porous, hydrophobic, heat-resistant surface that stops the onset of oxidation and keeps surfaces looking like new.”

By “hydrophobic” he means that it repels water, so that when it rains or the bike is washed, the water rolls off.

As a result, road dirt and dirt particles do not stick, but flow off with the water, keeping it cleaner for longer.

We washed and detailed all our bikes only to make it rain and totally ruin the result.

But with this coating, most dirt won’t stick and what’s left can be wiped off with a soft cloth.

I rode the bike through a brief shower and on wet roads that left a small amount of dirt on the surface. It only took a quick wipe to restore the surface shine.

You can also just waterless wash it with a product like this one from Motul.

I also found that bugs can be easily wiped off, whereas they usually stick to the paintwork and require water or a special spray to soften them before removing.

If you wash your bike after ceramic coating, Justin recommends using a pH neutral car or bike wash.

It only needs a wet wash when it gets really dry, and he says you don’t have to use wax.

Justin says it lasts up to five years per shift, and you can get a maintenance service for $330 that includes a full detail and spray application touch-up shift.

If you want to clean your motorcycle or dirt bike quickly, there are a few best practices that you should follow. But one question I wanted to answer is: is it safe to wash your motorcycle in a car wash? I’ll break down why this isn’t such a good idea and present some alternatives that could potentially save you a ton of money.

Believe it or not, there are YouTube videos of guys actually running bikes through automatic car washes…which is a silly idea, but pretty funny. Aside from the fact that automatic car washes are obviously not the smartest idea, your standard self-serve car wash is usually not the best idea either. As a disclaimer, we are not liable for any damage that may occur.

High pressure can cause damage

High pressure is really the biggest hazard of washing a bike in a car wash as it can damage the inside or outside of your bike depending on the pressure used. You also don’t want to expose leather to water (for obvious reasons) without having a towel or chamois handy.

While it’s okay to use a hose to remove dirt from tires, as long as you know what you’re doing. Here are some reasons why these high-pressure nozzles found in car washes can be problematic:

grease and bearings

Using high pressure can be detrimental to wheel bearings, removing grease and allowing water in where it doesn’t need to. You should also make sure you avoid shock/fork seals, hubs and suspension bearings as water can get in and grease can escape (leading to rust).

electrical damage

In other cases, water can damage exposed electronics when hit with high pressure. Modern bikes are built to withstand rain to some extent, but you want to avoid electrical connections like switches, connector cables, or the starter motor.

chain damage

Cleaning your bike’s chain is vital, but applying pressure is taboo. Many manufacturers use rubber grommets (O, X, or Z rings) that basically help keep grease in and water out. You should always use a chain cleaner instead of blasting to avoid problems (like rust) that can be accelerated by high pressure.

Don’t wash a bike when it’s hot

Even if you happen to get caught in the rain (which happens), you may know that water stains caused by contact with hot pipes or your engine are very difficult to remove once dry.

In extreme cases, cracks can occur

If you’re in a car wash, chances are your bike is still pretty hot. The main reason you should avoid cold water is that hot metal expands and returns to its normal shape once it cools. In extreme cases, pouring hot water over them can cause heads to break.

Water can strip paint from engines or turn them milky white

If you have a painted motor you can easily remove it with cold water as I’ve heard numerous reports online of people ruining the paint trying to wash a hot bike.

More commonly, your engine will likely turn a milky white color that is difficult to get rid of. There are several negative effects of washing a hot bike that I’ve heard of, but the most extreme cases occur when cold water is introduced into a hot engine.

Tips for washing your motorcycle safely

Wait at least 10 minutes (if not longer) for the engine to cool

Avoid high pressure

Don’t spray your bike with exposed leather – work in sections

Use detergent-free soaps (some detergent-based car wash soaps can react with aluminum)

Use degreaser instead of soap/water to clean dirty engines

My recommendation

If you must, find a car wash with a low-pressure sprayer and, if necessary, use water sparingly and avoid the areas mentioned. While I’ve heard reports of men washing their bikes in car washes and having no problem, I wouldn’t recommend it.

Most car washes I’ve visited use fairly high pressure and make it very difficult to take your time (since many are coin operated and only give you about a minute to wash and rinse everything). Brushes and soaps used in these washes should really not be used on your bike to avoid scratching.

Hand wash with a motorcycle cleaner

There is a good guide here at ArtofManliness.com that describes how to properly hand wash a motorcycle that you might want to check out. A product that is pretty standard for cleaning products is made by S100. They stock a full range of cleaning products exclusively for motorcycles.

There is also a range of waterless products specifically designed for motorcycling that you can check out. Chemical Guys (whose waterless products I really like) offers a complete motorcycle detailing kit here on Amazon that has everything you need on the road – from wheel rim cleaner to metal polish.

Do you have anything to add when it comes to washing your bike? Leave a comment below.

Motorcycles are heavily used on the open road. Even models that have fairings and other protective coverings over some of their most sensitive components have to endure salt, oil, dust and dirt while zipping along at freeway speeds. All that dirt is not only difficult to see when it’s covering the beautiful finish of your favorite vehicle, it’s also harmful. Corrosion from road salt and other dirt can wreak havoc on the inner workings of your bike, especially rubber seals and cable connections. So washing your bike is as necessary for maintenance as it is for the sheer joy of having a bright and shiny bike.

If that’s not enough, washing your bike has another major benefit: it provides an excuse to give your bike a close visual inspection, which can work wonders as preventive maintenance. While you’re scrubbing, you can check the chain for signs of wear, make sure your tires still have good tread, or check for oil leaks that may need your attention. For all these reasons, washing your motorcycle is a great idea for any regular rider. Besides, who doesn’t love the look of a shiny bike?

what not to do

The first thing to understand is that washing your motorcycle and washing your car are very different things. Cars are much better protected when it comes to high pressure hoses and strong detergents. Motorcycles are more sensitive. So, before you grab your car wash bucket and head into town, here’s a list of things not to do:

Don’t use the same cleaning product that you use on your car. Get a motorcycle-specific cleaner.

Don’t wash your bike when it’s hot. Only wash when the engine is cold.

Do not wash your bike in direct sunlight. The heat will dry the soap faster and make it harder to rinse off.

Do not use a high-pressure hose. Water forced into engine components can cause problems later.

With these warnings in mind, below is our guide to washing your motorcycle properly.

what you will need

Bike-specific cleaner (available online, at bike shops, and most auto parts stores)

Hose with adjustable spray nozzle

sponge

Brushes (rigid and soft versions)

rags

Chamois leather or microfiber cloth

chain lube

Step 1: Prepare your motorcycle

Before you begin, inspect your motorcycle and make sure all electrical connections, spark plug wires, and other components are secure. Take a rag and plug the hole in your exhaust pipe to prevent excess water from entering your exhaust system. Remove any bags or other accessories that you do not want to get wet or that prevent you from accessing dirty areas of the bike.

Step 2: Start with a conditioner

With your hose on a low setting, rinse off your bike. Feel free to up the pressure when you get to less sensitive and often dirtier areas like wheels and fenders.

Step 3: Apply cleaner

Some motorcycle cleaners do not require scrubbing. Simply spray on, leave on and rinse off. If you bought this type of cleaner and are feeling less than ambitious, this part will be easy. If that’s not the kind of cleaner you have, or your bike needs extra elbow grease, use a sponge to lather up your bike. Always start from the top down and work on the cleanest areas first. Typically, you should start with painted surfaces that scratch easily. Make sure to rinse your sponge regularly to keep it free of dirt as you scrub. If you use one bucket for your foam, consider getting a second bucket reserved just for rinsing.

Step 4: Get hard-to-reach areas

Use brushes to reach those areas that are harder to reach or require extra scrubbing. Plain old brushes like the ones you use to paint your house are great for cleaning more delicate engine components. Stiff brushes are better for removing dirt from wheels and tires.

Step 5: Rinse

Using a low pressure setting, give your motorcycle a thorough flush starting from the top. Again, don’t be afraid to increase the pressure for less sensitive areas.

Step 6: Drying

Use a leather or microfiber towel to thoroughly dry your entire bike. Start with painted surfaces like the gas tank, then work your way down to the seat, wheels, engine and exhaust. Change your cloth regularly to avoid wiping leftover dust and dirt around. If available, a chamois is excellent for the first pass as it will absorb water and then wring out easily for another pass to dry.

Step 7: Lubricate the chain again

Your motorcycle cleaner’s job is to remove grease and dirt, but there’s one area of ​​your bike you want grease to stay on: your chain. After drying your bike, make sure to apply lube to your entire chain.

Step 8: Take a ride

Once it’s as dry as you can get with a cloth, grab the rag from the exhaust and take your bike for a ride to remove water that’s collected in areas where it shouldn’t be. Remember that your wet brakes will take time to dry out and feel normal. So start at slower speeds before hitting the freeway.

Be careful not to splash water on the bearings. This can result in moisture which can lead to corrosion. In winter it is advisable to spray unpainted aluminum parts such as the engine and transmission housing with a transparent protective spray. Any traces of corrosion can be removed with soaped steel wool. Bare metal parts can be cleaned and protected with chrome polish.

When cleaning the seat, dashboard, turn signals, taillight and windshield, be sure to use a neutral soap solution. Do not use solvents that contain detergents.

Very dirty parts and dead insects should be soaked in soapy water and then rinsed with water. And if you ride in bad conditions, protect your machine with waxes or lubricants. Ask your dealer which are the best.

It’s always a good idea to plan ahead for routine maintenance on your bike. This way you can do it at a time that causes you the least amount of inconvenience and also works for your Honda dealer.

Posted by Old and Rusty » Sunday May 02nd, 2010 11:27am

Yes, I read the can in 1984 before liberally spraying it all over my brand new Yamaha RZ500. At that time I was still working as a painter and was quite careful with the painting.

I’ve also used silicone based products for paint jobs and never had a problem. I’ve used them on trail bikes for easier cleaning and haven’t had any polymer migration or paint adhesion drama at all. I know that silicone contamination before painting can be disastrous for adhesion properties.

Maybe they reformulated the product which seems odd that they would have something harmful to paint with. Most single component paints I can think of would be polyurethane which is the most commonly applied coating for a glossy finish on wood and 2 component coatings are tough as nails.

I just pulled a can out of the closet and they added something they call “Waterguard” which explains the use of silicone oils. I’ve had this RZ for 10 years and it has been cleaned almost weekly so over 500 uses by Mr Sheen and the day it was stolen it still looked like a brand new bike.

One of the best ways to take care of your motorcycle is to keep it clean. After all, a clean bike is a happy bike, right? Unfortunately, not taking the proper precautions when washing your bike can cause problems.

Although it is technically safe to pressure wash your motorcycle, caution and common sense must be exercised. Unlike cars, motorcycles have many exposed components such as seals, bearings, and electronics. These are waterproof, but pressurized water can still cause damage.

Using a pressure washer and foam gun on your motorcycle

Pressure washing your bike is a very effective way to remove dirt and grime, especially if it has had a lot of time to build up. However, think of this as more of a sledgehammer approach – you need to be careful and only do it when necessary.

Caution is the key to pressure washing your motorcycle. Yes, it can be done safely if you watch what you’re doing. In fact, the combination of using a pressure washer and a foam gun can produce great results in a short amount of time.

It allows you to spray soap on the surface and in those hard-to-reach areas near the engine and suspension. Then using a soft bristle brush to agitate the soap, any light to moderate cleaning is done quickly. Heavier dirt may require the use of a degreaser and more scrubbing.

Here are some considerations before you pressure wash your bike:

Choose the right pressure washer

You shouldn’t need more than about 1,000 PSI to effectively clean your motorcycle. Most commercially available electric high-pressure cleaners offer sufficient power for this. You can read more about the pressure washer setup I use here:

Which soap for your bike

You can safely use any soap you would use on your car on your bike. A good quality pH neutral soap will give you enough cleaning power without stripping the wax or sealer off your paint.

It’s not a good idea to use a dishwashing liquid like Dawn on your motorcycle. It tends to leave a residue or film that can dry out the surface. It will also remove your wax. To put it simply, dish soap is too harsh to use on your bike and a product meant for cars should be used instead.

Don’t let the nozzle get too close

This is crucial when it comes to safely pressure washing your motorcycle. Keep your distance! If possible, stay at least 12″ away from your bike. Sure, you might need to get in closer to dislodge a stubborn bug from your gas tank or fender, and that’s okay. Just stay away from the more sensitive components (more on that below).

Don’t leave any water behind

This is one of the most important things to remember when hose down or pressure washer your motorcycle. You need to dry it thoroughly after washing it to make sure there is no stagnant water left.

The best way to do this is with compressed air. You can use different forms of it depending on what you have access to. A vehicle-specific blow dryer like the Air Force Blaster Sidekick works great on motorcycles.

A jet nozzle on an air compressor is another great option for blowing the water out of any tight spaces on your bike. If you don’t have either, a leaf blower will do the job just fine. You can read more about my favorite leaf blower here:

Motorcycle components to avoid using a pressure washer:

Unlike the average car, motorcycles have some components that can be quite delicate. These are things that are usually hidden under the body of a car, but are wide open on a bike. Here is a list of things to avoid spraying directly with a pressure washer:

computer modules

wiring

handlebar control

Measuring device

wheel bearing

spark plugs/cables

voltage regulator

Chain

seat (if there are any possible cracks in it)

audio systems

All of these components are actually okay to get wet. After all, the manufacturer had to reckon with the fact that the driver could get stuck in the rain. Therefore, these components are designed to be waterproof.

However, pressurized water is a different story. Spraying these parts directly with just a garden hose on a gentle setting is probably fine. However, spraying them at 1,000 PSI allows water to get past the seals and into the bearings.

What not to wash a motorcycle with?

Now that we know it’s safe to use a pressure washer on your bike, what products or tools should you avoid?

A gas-powered high-pressure cleaner

These devices are overkill for any type of vehicle wash in my opinion. You don’t need to be able to push the pressure to 3,000 PSI unless you’re cleaning your deck or driveway. An electric one will do the job just fine and be a lot safer.

A sponge

The problem with using a sponge on your paintwork is that it traps dirt and debris between it and your paint. Because sponges don’t have a place for dirt to hide, they end up causing it to roll around between the two surfaces – potentially causing scratches.

If you use a microfiber cloth or wash mitt, wiping can pull dirt into the fibers and away from the paint. Microfiber’s property is to “grab and hold” while the sponge just pushes dirt around.

A chamois

Old chamois should be avoided for the same reason as sponges. Even if you dry after washing, there is still a chance that dirt will remain. In this case, it gets stuck between the paintwork and the chamois leather and can cause scratches.

The gloves/brushes/towels you use on your car

Aside from the cans (gas tank, fairing, fenders, etc.), the rest of your bike should be treated the same as washing your car’s wheels. The engine and suspension are all exposed to what your wheels pick up off the ground. These are common areas where things like brake dust, road grime, oil and grease can be found.

You don’t want to contaminate the wash mitt you use on your hot rod by scrubbing your bike’s engine. You want to keep this separate – if you want, you can use the tools you use on your car’s wheels on your bike too. But just like you wouldn’t use your cycling glove on your paintwork, you shouldn’t use anything that will touch the dirty parts of your bike either.

Brushes with stiff bristles

Soft bristle brushes are your best friend when it comes to getting into those intricate areas of a motorcycle. They’re flexible enough to get into those tight spots and soft enough not to scratch the finish of paint, powdercoat, or chrome. Brushes with stiff bristles do neither. They should be kept for scrubbing things like tires and nothing more.

tires shine

The last 2 points are considered safety concerns if used improperly. If you are unsure about the safe use of them, you should avoid them completely.

The first is tire shine or dressing. If used on the sidewall of the tire, it may be ok. Trouble is, if you get something on the tread – that’s a recipe for disaster, for obvious reasons.

leather care

Using a leather conditioner on your seat is another thing you should be extra careful with. These products (especially the cheaper oil-based ones commonly found at parts stores) will make your seat greasy and slippery. This is a key touchpoint for you while riding, so make sure whatever you use on your seat feels dry to the touch – or don’t use anything at all.

Wash your motorcycle in a car wash

Of course you won’t (hopefully!) drive through an automated car wash, but can you wash your motorcycle in a coin-operated car wash?

Using this type of car wash really is no different than using your own electric pressure washer. You need to take the same precautions and be extra careful, but they are technically safe to use.

However, the soap offered at these car washes tends to be strong, so you may want to stick with just a rinse to avoid removing wax from your paintwork. In any case, avoid using the scrubbing brush on your painted surfaces – this is guaranteed to cause scratches.

The biggest downside to washing your bike at a car wash is the lack of compressed air to dry it properly. The good news is that a lot of the water gets blown away during the ride home. Make sure you use a soft towel afterwards if you’re worried about water stains.

How often should I wash my motorcycle?

In general, every 2 weeks is a good starting point if you want to keep up to date. Since there is a small risk of getting your motorcycle wet, you should not overdo it by washing it too often. How dirty your bike gets depends on how you ride and how often you ride.

A bike that is ridden to work every day, whether it’s raining outside or the sun is shining, needs to be washed a lot more often than one that’s only used for weekend rides.

The most common dirt on motorcycles is insect spray, so keep an eye on the front end of the motorcycle. Once you find a lot of bugs clinging to it, it’s probably time for a wash. This is true of fair-weather motorcycles, however—motorcycles ridden in wet conditions get the same type of road grime that accumulates as a car.

Safer alternatives to washing your motorcycle

There are some owners who just don’t feel comfortable getting their bikes overly wet. This can be a reason for people to stick to quick wipes with detail spray or not to clean their bike at all. Neither are good options if the condition of your bike is important to you.

You can still wash your motorcycle without soaking it with a hose or pressure washer. Rinseless washing products work fantastic when used on bikes. They provide plenty of water to lubricate without spraying it directly onto the bike. Products like Optimum No Rinse are a safe and quick way to wipe down your motorcycle so you can get back on the road.

Simply fill a bucket with about a gallon of water and mix in one capful of rinse-free washing solution. Throw in a few microfiber towels and wash the bike section by section. Turn onto a neatly folded side of the towel when it gets noticeably dirty. Then wipe dry with a separate drying cloth.

You can also put some of this mixture (or stronger) in a spray bottle to give the bike a nice smooth finish before mopping. This further reduces the chance of scratching the paintwork.

Conclusion

Washing your bike with a pressure washer can be done safely as long as you follow the tips in the article. Always use common sense and try to stay focused while you work – always think a few steps ahead and always consider if the component you are aiming at should be hit with pressurized water.

Using a pressure washer can make removing stubborn bugs and dirt a breeze. As long as you keep your distance and avoid the sensitive areas, you should be fine. It’s always a good idea to start the bike when you’re done to rattle away standing water and let it dry faster. This can also help water escape from places it perhaps shouldn’t have reached.

This is how you detail your motorcycle like the pros

There are a number of reasons why a motorcycle owner would want to detail their bike. First and foremost, we all love our bikes and want them to perform and look their best. It’s also a crucial first step in selling a motorcycle – a spotlessly clean motorcycle is guaranteed to fetch the highest price. Finally, regularly detailing a bike can also reveal mechanical problems that would otherwise not be obvious.

prewash

Using a garden hose, simply hose down the lower parts of the bike. This removes the largest dirt particles and prevents scratching. Gently wash all hard surfaces of your bike with a good quality microfiber or sheepskin wash mitt and car or motorcycle detergent, then gently rinse with a hose. Unless your bike is extremely greasy, it’s best to avoid harsh soaps like dish soap.

Another option is a waterless wash and can be used on bikes that are not overly dirty. All you need is a waterless washing solution and a good quality microfiber cloth. Simply dampen the surface with the product and wipe dry, making sure to change frequently and switch to clean towels. This avoids micro damage that can occur with soft paint.

rim cleaner

Since they are usually made of a different material, wheels and spokes should be washed separately. Start by washing your wheels and tires with laundry soap and a mild tire cleaner. This will remove all oils from tire dressings and road film. Once the wheels and tires are clean and dry you can start polishing and protecting your rims. Chrome can be buffed with a fine chrome polish and then waxed to maintain the shine. Uncoated aluminum can be polished with aluminum polish and coated aluminum is basically treated in the same way as your paintwork on your bike, it can be easily polished and waxed.

Dash and controls

Motorcycle dashboards have many different surfaces and electrical parts that should not get wet. For general cleaning and protection of your dashboard, we recommend using a cleaner that offers UV protection for your plastics, both clear and colored. 303® Clear Vinyl is designed to safely clean clear plastics and provide a UV protective coating. This also works well on your plexiglass windshield.

engine cleaner

Proper cleaning of your engine depends a lot on how dirty your engine is to start with. You may just need a quick check with a soft bristle brush and bike wash soap the first time you wash, or you may need a heavy duty degreaser. Regardless of your cleaning method, engines should be cool and in the shade during cleaning. Instructions for engine specific cleaning products should be followed closely. Highly corrosive compounds can damage other parts of a motorcycle including paint, chrome, leather or fabric.

chrome polish

Like the dashboard and bike controls, chrome should be polished in a shaded area in cool, non-humid environments. In general, it’s a good idea to do the chrome polish cycle twice with a break in between to complete work on another step in the detailing process. This often yields better results than a single pass. To extend the life of your polishing job, it’s a good idea to finish with a quick coat of wax.

leather treatment

The leather of the seats can vary greatly; This can be natural aniline leather, coated leather or very high quality vinyl that feels like leather. All of this requires different leather care. In general, a good cleaning and care with a non-slip protector will keep your seat looking new for a long time.

Rinse properly

Whenever possible, use the softest water available and be sure to fully soak up any excess water to avoid staining or residue. Proper procedures for removing excess water can be quite a complex subject on their own, but they are definitely worth studying as a proper flush will only benefit the bike’s appearance.

dry

Motorcycles have a lot of nooks and crannies, so an easy and safe way to dry your motorcycle is with a subway buddy. A Metro sidekick delivers filtered, high-pressure air so you can be assured of getting your bike completely dry. Anything left out during air drying can be dried with a soft microfiber cloth.

paint sealing

Paintwork on motorcycles is treated slightly differently than paintwork on your car. Depending on the current condition of the paint, you may only need a light toning and polish, followed by a wax or sealer. If your color has been neglected, you may need to machine the compound prior to polishing and waxing.

Motorcycle detailing is work for a patient person, but in the end you’ll be rewarded with a well-maintained bike that’ll draw crowds at the next bike night, or fetch the highest price if you’re looking to sell it.

If you like motorcycles and puzzles, dealer setup might be the job for you – it’s basically like putting together a life-size mechanical jigsaw puzzle. All parts are most likely in the box that comes from the manufacturer; All you have to do is put them in, grab the battery and toss it on a charger, pour in fluids and tweak as needed. Sounds easy enough, right?

Youtuber Duke of DC spoke to the helpful staff at Woods Cycle Country who kindly walked him through the assembly process of an all new 2019 Suzuki DR-Z400SM. As you’d expect, the dealer setup can be more or less involved depending on the type of bike you’re working on. In Woods’ experience, large Kawasaki cruisers have traditionally taken the longest to assemble. The DRZ, on the other hand, is somewhere in the middle. The total time for a proper and careful setup can take anywhere from one and a half to four hours.

Among other things, Woods revealed: Shipping crates that bikes arrive in are often damaged in transit, so they are usually discarded/recycled after the bikes are assembled and cannot be reused. Occasionally animals, including raccoons, sneak into the boxes during transport. The most important thing for a rider to know is that most brake discs on new bikes come from the manufacturers with a protective coating that needs to be removed before you can expect to use them for stopping. Your dealer should remove this during setup, but if you have any questions about this, just ask.

Everything else is really like a giant jigsaw puzzle, but with torque wrenches and extra care with shiny bits. It’s especially important not to damage a bike’s front rim when the dealer picks up the bike to secure it, connect the speedo, and get everything right and tight so the bike is secure and to manufacturer specifications before you receive it . This is also the point where some dealers will take the bike’s battery and plug it into a charger so it’s ready to go when you pick up your new bike.

Reflectors, fenders, mirrors, controls, bins – basically every part of your bike is touched (and tightened and ergonomically adjusted) by your dealer before you take it home. In general, most bike mechanics are enthusiasts too – but it’s always reassuring to know we’re taking care of ourselves at all levels.

No matter the season or the weather, motorcycle fans around the world are eagerly awaiting a quick spin. To hell with the fact that it’s almost freezing cold and straight-line winds strong enough to make Martin Scorsese’s eyebrows quiver. Precipitation is nowhere to be seen, and the open road is calling.

But not only the elements of the earth bring great dangers with them. The freeways and back roads we traverse every day also present dangers, and we’re not just talking fucked up drivers and potholes of impending doom. Bike safety goes far beyond keeping a cool head behind the bars or putting a helmet on your skull. It also extends to the machines we own.

For millions of riders, protecting the longevity of the machine they ride is just as important as their own personal safety. In recent years, a record number of bike owners have begun to turn to nano-ceramic coatings, a product that offers unparalleled paint and surface protection. However, there is still a lot of confusion and misinformation about what this stuff does and why it should be used on two-wheelers.

So get dressed, grab your helmet and don’t forget to hit the latrine one last time, because we’re about to take a trip to Ceramic City, and your bike will take us there.

What the heck is a nanoceramic coating?

AvalonKing’s Armor Shield IX is the highest rated DIY nanoceramic coating on the market today. Period.

Every week we’re faced with a variety of questions about ceramic coatings that smack the screw right on the head, and today we’re going to answer a few of them. So, before we get into some of the more bike-specific discussions, let’s start with a quick explanation of what nanotechnology ceramic coating is and why it’s so darn important.

Contrary to what all the social media “experts” are saying, ceramic coatings aren’t made from unicorn tears, nor are they otherworldly liquids brought to earth by living beings and blessed by a bunch of stoned wizards in Bora Bora. This magical brew is a man-made brew that draws heavily on two of Earth’s most abundant resources: science and sand.

As previously mentioned, the main ingredient in a true 9H ceramic coating is silicon dioxide, or silicon dioxide (SiO2), a refined form of quartz-rich sand that should make up no less than 80% of the product’s genetic structure. You don’t want too much of this stuff either, though, so a good rule here is to keep the silt below 85% by the sea.

As for the rest of the goodies on the list, they often contain ingredients like titanium dioxide (nano-TiO2), activated fluorine, whitening silicon particles, polysilazane, triethanolamine, and water. Speaking of health risks: As long as you don’t brush your teeth with this concoction, the ingredients in the ceramic coating pose little risk. So be smart, put on your gloves and bring a mask and goggles if you feel like it.

Quick Nerd Note: The term “nanotechnology” refers to the implementation of millions of micrococcal particles to achieve a common binding or coating. These nanotech particles are so tiny that even an average microscope will have trouble detecting them. Their tiny size allows these tiny particles to fill in cracks and rough spots on hard surfaces, which explains why a fully cured, properly applied ceramic coating looks and feels smoother than glass.

Why ceramic coatings reign supreme in protecting bike finishes

Insect splashes, tree sap, bird droppings, rain and road dirt don’t stand a chance as they ricochet off the nano-ceramic coated surface harmlessly.

Now that we’ve “annoyed” you all, it’s time to focus on the benefits that come with this magical elixir. It doesn’t matter if you ride a 2,147cc V-twin hog from a Harley or a 50cc two-stroke scooter, ceramic coatings protect bikes with fierce abandon, and here’s how.

One of the many advantages of nanotechnology ceramic coatings is their ability to provide a protective layer to pretty much any hard surface they encounter, and that includes motorized machines rocking two wheels. From fairings and forks to seat rails and exhaust pipes, if it’s a solid surface these things will likely protect it, and here’s how.

Straight out of the bottle, ceramic coatings around the world appear like any other watery, transparent liquid substance. But if you let them cure for a full 48 hours, all of those nanotechnology particles we mentioned earlier form an invisible, web-like matrix. This creates a virtually impenetrable “force field” with extremely high resistance to just about anything with a moderate pH.

From helmets and goggles to action camera gear and accessories, 9H-certified ceramic coatings like Armor Shield IX protect more than just motorcycles.

Credit: crazyraygarland08

Naturally, this has made ceramic coatings a popular current application in both the automotive and manufacturing sectors. A crystal clear and super strong fully cured ceramic coating is the equivalent of attaching a transparent exoskeleton to the exterior of your car or, in today’s case, a motorcycle.

Rock hard, like Ron Jeremy in the 1970’s, nanotech ceramic coatings offer unmatched protection from UV rays, H2O, road grime, superficial scratches, light impacts, chemicals, heat, swirl marks, bird droppings, tree sap, both acid and plastic rain, pollen, Snot rockets, dirt, mineral rich water, graffiti and more. Nanotech ceramic coatings also have the ability to rapidly expel water thanks to the use of a hydrophobic property in the “lotus effect” that forces liquid to bead up faster than a lanky kid on a big wheel.

Quick Tip: With proper use and care, a quality ceramic coating like Armor Shield IX will last for years, protecting surfaces from all of the above nasties and more. But beware. Sealants, polymers, and high pH car wash shampoos, often referred to as “waterless detergents,” are always out to eat away at a ceramic coating, so make sure to always use an ultra-low pH shampoo and steer clear of those sealants to keep unnecessary topical polymers away.

How the ceramic coating is different for motorcycle owners

A prime example of what an Armor Shield IX ceramic coating looks like when cured on a motorcycle.

Photo Credit: Tun Lin Maung

While nanoceramic coatings can coat just about any form of transportation, including boats, airplanes, pogo sticks, skateboards and your average garage supercar, motorcycles and scooters offer their own unique opportunities.

With many bike owners choosing to park their vehicle outdoors, often in unprotected areas, the risks associated with even a stationary motorcycle remain significant. The protection provided by a ceramic coating helps reduce much of this “dormant depreciation”. Protection against color fading and peeling due to sun exposure and water stains from acid and plastic rain is eliminated, as well as most light scratches caused by windblown branches and trash.

High quality ceramic coatings are also safe to use on many high temperature surfaces as long as they do not exceed a sustained temperature of 440° Fahrenheit (226° Celsius). This allows things like exhaust pipes, brake caliper faces, hubs and exposed engine components to be coated and protected.

Helmets and various other protective gear with hard surface textures are also fair game. Interest in the ceramic coating of video recording devices is also growing in the bike community. Electronic recording devices such as action cameras and the protective cases that surround them benefit immensely from the protective properties of a ceramic coating. Rain and fog roll off and roll off, scratches on lenses and their transparent bodies are no longer a problem, and the risk of breaking the plastic body of the camera itself is significantly reduced.

Quick Nerd Note: In order to source the right nanotech coating, one must first understand the basic function of ceramic coating products and the importance of scratch resistance. It is important to always use a 9H ceramic coating as this is the highest certified scratch resistance rating that can be given to a surface protector. Anything below 9H will not provide adequate protection for your bike. In contrast, anything else will probably be snake oil in a bottle, because there’s no 10H scratch resistance rating.

“Given the quality of the product and the overall value you get, it’s safe to assume that Armor Shield IX will remain the best ceramic coating solution on the market for a long time to come.” –Auto Unleashed (Ceramic Motorcycle Coatings Buyer’s Guide 2020)

Motorcycle and scooter parts that should never be ceramic coated

You may not be able to see it, but a nano-ceramic coating has woven a protective net like hell over all of these surfaces.

Credit: David Ogan

For millions of people, zipping around on two wheels (or one if you’re up to the risk of life and limb) is an inexplicably, undeniably liberating experience. But bikes also come with their own risks and considerations, and we’re not just talking about the banana peel or red turtle shell thrown onto the back of the dune buggy in front of you.

Granted, a professional ceramic coating on your bike always offers the best protection because… well… it’s applied by professionals, but the do-it-yourself method has its own merits as well. However, there’s a big difference between doing it yourself to save some money and royal shit, and nowhere is this more evident than when people choose to coat every surface they see with ceramic.

There’s nothing wrong with getting excited about protecting painted plastic surfaces, but coating every square inch of a bike is just a waste of resources. Ceramic coatings are a product specifically designed for hard surface application, so you can skip all the messy stuff. From hand grips and pedal pads to seat pads, saddlebags and exposed silicone lines, the list of no-coat parts on motorcycles is pretty straightforward. Oh, and let’s not forget the tires. For the love of all that is sacred, please never attempt to coat your tires with ceramic.

Coating the engine cover itself or anything that comes straight off the block like exhaust headers/headers is also a risky move. We offer this warning not because the coating can damage anything, but because it is likely to fail prematurely if the sustained heat threshold of 226°C (440°F) is exceeded.

And while the potential risks associated with the ceramic coating exposing mechanical elements like the bike’s chain drive system remain to be seen, failure of a motorcycle’s heatsinks, radiator and/or intercooler is a bit more concerning. You want heat to escape and fresh air to flow across the surface as freely as possible, so coating these components with a temperature resistant product can prevent the critical heat transfer from the metal surface to the air and vice versa.

Should you ceramic coat your bike yourself…or have a pro do it?

So the weather is super crappy, there’s nothing good on Pornhub, and you’re left with nothing but tinkering with your favorite two-wheeled toy. Now would be the best time for you to unwrap that bottle of Armor Shield IX Ceramic Coating that’s been gathering dust on your workbench. Although a bit of prep work is usually required before installing a layer of 9H certified nanotechnology since motorcycles and scooters don’t have a shitton surface, this task doesn’t take nearly as long as, say, a large RV.

While a single serving of Armor Shield IX should be enough to provide paint protection for about a half-dozen bikes for about $70, not everyone has the time, energy, or interest to do a full DIY ceramic coating installation. We get it. You’re busy, and preparing and coating a motorcycle with nanoceramics isn’t for everyone.

So how much does a professional ceramic coating for the run-of-the-mill motorcycle cost? While prices vary by installer and product used, you can expect to spend anywhere from $200 to $600 for a full ceramic coating installation for motorcycles and slightly less for scooters and mopeds. Since all surfaces must first be meticulously detailed and all blemishes touched up, the final bill will vary depending on the muscle power required, as frequently used bikes require more than just a splash of paint touch-up.

Motorbike Writer, an Australia-based publication, states that after sending a Ducati to a local installation specialist for a professional Ceramic Pro coating, they were absolutely amazed at the results once completed. While all of the aforementioned protective features definitely made an impression, it was how “…the coating wouldn’t make the Duc’s satin finish shine…” that really stood out, as it made the bike’s surfaces “glow” under light. All in all, this installation of the release’s hydrophobic coating brought in a whopping $330 and included all the necessary surface prep work and installation procedures for the ceramic coating.

“Insects can simply be wiped off, whereas they usually cling to the paintwork and require water or a special spray to soften them before removing.” -Motorcycle author

farewell shots

A prime example of what a high quality ceramic coating can do for a motorcycle. Continue. Lose yourself in the glory of this radiant glow…

Credit: David Ogan

While it may be safer and more convenient to hit the freeway with a mint-fresh convertible top than it is to ride a bike, the sense of freedom that comes with two-wheeled transportation is unsurpassed. Ceramic coatings offer the same sense of freedom, but it’s the freedom of knowing your bike is protected 24/7 from the elements that engulf you.

This has resulted in ceramic coatings quickly becoming one of the most popular detailing products for motorcycle and scooter riders, and for damn good reason. Whether you do the application process yourself or hire a professional, some things are guaranteed, starting with the protection that only a 9H-rated nanotech ceramic coating can provide.

That being said, unless you plan to only ride a couple of times a year, some maintenance will need to be done to allow the ceramic coating to perform to its full potential. Routine washing with a pH-balanced bike or car shampoo is pretty much a must after a long ride or when returning from a muddy off-road adventure. Using a ceramic coating “booster” is also never a bad idea, as the nanotechnology surface structure remains charged with revitalizing molecules.

As far as recommended install frequency and all that jazz goes, motorcycles tend to have the same longevity as cars, although they don’t typically operate in colder months. Because the molecular structure of a ceramic coating is constantly degrading, even when not being lashed by the elements. This means that you should plan on doing a complete removal and reinstallation every 2 years for regularly ridden motorcycles and every 2 years for motorcycles that are used only occasionally.