Nitrite Spike After Water Change? Top 50 Best Answers

What is meant by “Cycling Your Tank” and “New Tank Syndrome”?

Like all living things, fish emit waste products (pee and feces). These nitrogenous waste products break down into ammonia (NH3), which is highly toxic to most fish. In nature, the amount of water per fish is extremely high, and waste products are diluted to low concentrations. In aquariums, however, it can only take a few hours for ammonia concentrations to reach toxic levels.

How much ammonia is too much? The quick answer is, if a test kit can measure it, you have too much of it (say, in enough concentration to stress fish). Consider emergency measures to reduce the hazard (see XXX). (For a more detailed discussion of ammonia toxicity, see here.)

The “nitrogen cycle” is the biological process that converts ammonia into other, relatively harmless nitrogen compounds. Fortunately, several species of bacteria do this conversion for us. In particular, Nitrosomonas species (among others) convert ammonia (NH3) to nitrite (NO2-), while Nitrobacter species (among others) convert nitrite to nitrate (NO3-). Therefore, passing through the tank refers to the process of establishing colonies of bacteria in the filter bed, which convert ammonia -> nitrite -> nitrates.

The desired types of nitrifying bacteria are present everywhere (e.g. in the air). So once you have a source of ammonia in your tank, it’s only a matter of time before the bacteria you want colonize your filter bed. The most common way to do this is to add one or two (emphasis on one or two) hardy and inexpensive fish to your aquarium. The fish waste contains the ammonia on which the bacteria live. Don’t overfeed them! More food means more ammonia! Some suggested species are: common goldfish (for cold water tanks), zebrafish and barbs for warmer tanks and damselfish in marine systems. Note: Do not use “Toughies” or other forage fish. Although cheap, they are extremely unhealthy and their use can introduce unwanted diseases into your aquarium.

During the cycling process, the ammonia level rises and then suddenly falls as the nitrite-forming bacteria take hold. Because nitrate-forming bacteria only emerge when nitrite is present in significant amounts, nitrite levels skyrocket (as the accumulated ammonia is converted) and continue to rise as the continuously produced ammonia is converted to nitrite. As soon as the nitrate-forming bacteria have established themselves, the nitrite levels drop, the nitrate levels rise and the tank is completely filled.

Your tank is fully cycled once nitrates are produced (and the ammonia and nitrite levels are zero). To determine when the cycle is complete, purchase appropriate test kits (see XXX) and measure the levels yourself, or take water samples to your fish shop and have them do the test for you (perhaps for a small fee). This process usually takes between 2 and 6 weeks. Temperatures below 70F will take even longer to cycle a tank. Nitrifying bacteria grow slowly compared to other types of bacteria. Under optimal conditions, it takes a full 15 hours for a colony to double in size!

It is sometimes possible to speed up the cycle time. See XXX for details.

Warning: AVOID THE TEMPTATION TO GET MORE FISH UNTIL AFTER YOUR TANK IS COMPLETELY CYCLE! More fish means more ammonia production, increasing the stress on all fish and the likelihood of fish kills. Once ammonia levels reach very distressing or toxic levels, your tank has succumbed to “New Tank Syndrome”; The tank hasn’t completely drained and the ammonia that is building up is at levels that are lethal to your fish. How much ammonia is too much?

In an established tank, ammonia should be undetectable using standard test kits that are commercially available. The presence of detectable values ​​indicates that your biofilter is not working properly, either because your tank has not been run or the filter is not working properly (e.g. too small for fish load, clogged, etc.). Fix the problem (filters) in addition to the symptoms (high ammonia levels).

The exact concentration at which ammonia becomes toxic to fish varies between species; some are more tolerant than others. In addition, other factors such as water temperature and chemistry play a significant role. For example, ammonia (NH3) continuously changes to ammonium (NH4+) and vice versa, with the respective concentrations depending on the temperature and pH of the water. Ammonia is extremely toxic; Ammonia is relatively harmless. At higher temperatures and higher pH levels, more nitrogen is present in the toxic form of ammonia than at lower pH levels.

Standard test kits measure total ammonia (ammonia plus ammonium) without distinguishing between the two forms. The table below gives the maximum long-term concentration of nitrate-N in mg/L that can be considered safe at a given temperature and pH. Note again that a tank with an established biological filter will not contain any detectable ammonia. This table is provided for emergencies only. If your readings approach or exceed the readings shown, take emergency action IMMEDIATELY.

Water temperature pH 20 °C (68 °F) 25 °C (77 °F) _________________________________ 6.5 15.4 11.1 7.0 5.0 3.6 7.5 1.6 1.2 8.0 0 .5 0.4 8.5 0.2 0.1

What can be done to minimize stress (and potential fish kills) during the tank change phase?

As a last precaution, several commercial products (e.g. “Amquel” or “Ammo-Lock”) safely neutralize the toxicity of ammonia. Amquel does not remove the ammonia, it simply neutralizes its toxicity. Biological filtration is also required to convert the (neutralized) ammonia into nitrite and nitrate. Thus, the addition of Amquel causes the ammonia produced by the fish to be neutralized immediately, but still allows the nitrification cycle to proceed. However, there is a significant downside to using Amquel during the cycle phase. Amquel (and similar products) can cause ammonia test kits to give false readings, making it difficult to accurately determine when cycling is complete. See XXX for details.

It’s also possible to drive a tank without ever adding any fish. The role that fish play in the cycle is simply their steady production of ammonia; The same effect can be achieved by manually adding chemical forms of ammonia (e.g. ammonium chloride). It’s a bit more complicated than using fish, however, as water chemistry needs to be monitored more closely to add the right amount of ammonia on a daily basis.

I am impatient. How can I speed up the driving time?

Most filters have some sort of foam block or dental floss insert that nitrifying bacteria attach to. If you borrow all or part of such an insert and put it in the filter of the new tank, it goes faster.

If the established tank uses a bottom filter, nitrifying bacteria will attach to the gravel. Take some gravel (a cup or more) and hang it in a mesh bag in your filter (if you can) or place it over the gravel in the new tank (if it has a UGF).

If you have a box, sponge, or corner filter, simply plug it into an established aquarium and let it run for about a week. Bacteria in the water form a bed in the new filter. After a week, put the now “run-in” filter in the new tank.

More recently, products containing colonies of nitrifying bacteria (e.g., “Fritz”, “Bio-zyme”, “Cycle”) have become available in pet stores. In theory, adding the bacteria starts the colonization process as described above. Network experience with such products has been mixed; Some people report success while others report they don’t work at all. In principle, such products should work well. However, nitrifying bacteria cannot live indefinitely without oxygen and food. Thus, the effectiveness of a product depends on its freshness and can be adversely affected by improper handling (e.g. overheating). Unfortunately, these products don’t have a fresh date, so there’s no way of knowing how old they are.

Some (not many) aquarium stores will offer aquarium buyers a cup of gravel from an established aquarium. A word of caution is in order here. Due to the nature of the business, tanks in shops are very likely to contain unwanted pathogens (bacteria, parasites, etc.); You don’t want to add them to an established tank. However, for someone setting up their very first tank, all of the fish are likely to be purchased from the same store, so the risk is relatively low since the newly purchased fish were exposed to the same pathogens. If possible, inoculate a filter with bacteria from a non-storage tank.

Of course, there are many variations of the above that work. However, it’s a bit difficult to come up with an exact recipe that’s guaranteed to work. It’s wise to be conservative and not add fish too quickly. Additionally, testing the water to ensure nitrates are being produced eliminates the guesswork of determining when your tank has cycled.

Next section: Beginners: stress and healthy aquaristics

The danger of too much nitrate in aquariums is often misunderstood by aquarists. Although far less toxic than ammonia or nitrite, high levels of nitrate — called nitrate poisoning or nitrate shock — can also kill aquarium fish. Chemically, nitrates are similar to nitrites in that both are made up of oxygen and nitrogen molecules, but nitrate is a less reactive compound.

Nitrites contain only two nitrogen atoms for each oxygen atom, making them a more reactive molecule, while the less reactive nitrate molecule contains three nitrogen atoms for each oxygen atom. Nitrate is one of the natural by-products of the fish digestive tract and will build up in any tank that is not properly maintained.

Nitrate poisoning vs. nitrate shock

Depending on the intensity of exposure, nitrate poisoning has two different names: nitrate poisoning refers to the chronic problem while nitrate shock refers to the acute problem with rapid onset.

What is nitrate poisoning? Nitrate poisoning occurs when fish are exposed to gradually increasing nitrate levels over a period of time without regular tank maintenance. Overfeeding and overstocking of fish also contribute significantly to slowly rising nitrate levels.

If steps are not taken to reduce nitrates, the cumulative effect can lead to fish kills. Some fish will be affected by levels as low as 20 mg/L, while others will not show any obvious symptoms until levels reach several hundred mg/L. At the lower levels, juvenile fish are affected as well as saltwater fish.

What is nitrate shock? Nitrate shock occurs when fish are suddenly exposed to widely varying nitrate concentrations of up to several hundred mg/L. Although nitrate shock usually refers to a sudden increase in nitrate levels, fish can be equally shocked when nitrate levels suddenly drop dramatically.

symptoms and mortality

These new behaviors in your fish may be signs that they may be dealing with a new nitrate problem that has arisen in your aquarium in the last 24-48 hours:

Symptoms Loss of appetite

Rapid gill movement, high respiratory rate

Listlessness, seems dazed

Loss of balance, disorientation

Lay on the bottom of the tank

Curl from head to tail (advanced stages)

When nitrates have slowly increased over time, it is not uncommon for only one or two fish to show symptoms at first. Until water tests are done, there may be no apparent reason why some fish are mysteriously getting sick. If nitrate levels are not reduced, more fish will show symptoms. Eventually, fish kills begin, which occur over a period of a few days to a few weeks.

When fish are suddenly exposed to very high levels of nitrates, they usually die within 24 hours of exposure. Often owners are not aware of the problem until the fish are dead or near death. In these situations, immediate action can be taken for affected fish, but before new fish are added to the tank, identify and correct the source of the problem to prevent further tragedy.

Most cases of sudden nitrate shock and subsequent fish loss occur when new fish are brought home to an aquarium with dramatically higher nitrate levels. New fish are often chemically shocked by poor water quality conditions that current residents have slowly become accustomed to over time. Nitrate shock can also occur if a mature tank with high nitrate levels has had massive water changes, as any sudden nitrate drop will also shock the fish.

emergency treatment

Even in the case of sudden exposure to high nitrates, it is possible to reduce the effect of the nitrates and thus give the fish a chance of survival. Do not feed the fish for 24 hours, and then feed sparingly until the tank stabilizes.

How to lower nitrate levels

Slow, controlled water changes are required to lower nitrate levels. The first step to a successful water change is to test the water to get a baseline nitrate level. This will give you an idea of ​​how many changes may be required. Rapid test test strips give a rough idea of ​​your progress, but chemical reagent test kits provide more accurate readings.

The key to safely exchanging bad water during an intoxication event is to avoid another sudden change that would add too much chemical gradient stress to already stressed fish. Ideally, the nitrate level in a freshwater aquarium should be kept below 20 mg/L. However, any changes should be made slowly and only remove less than 50 mg/L of nitrate per day.

Perform several small water changes. The maximum rate of concentration change that freshwater fish can tolerate is five percent water changes per hour or two, using water with low nitrate levels. Repeat changing just this amount until you have replaced about half the total amount of water in your aquarium. This process reduces nitrate levels significantly, but slowly enough to avoid the effects of sudden changes on the fish.

Proceed to Retest Levels

Test again after the last water change to find out how much the nitrate levels have dropped. If the nitrate level stays above 100 mg/L, repeat the process the next day. Nitrate removing filter media can also be used when nitrate levels remain high, usually through leaching from filter media, substrate or plants.

Prevent nitrate poisoning

Once the nitrate levels have been lowered, it is important to properly maintain the tank to avoid another nitrate crisis. To prevent toxic nitrates from creeping up:

Let’s face it, nobody wants nitrites in their aquarium.

I do not want her. you don’t want her They certainly don’t want your fish.

Even if nitrites are undesirable, they still play an important role in your aquarium.

Today I’m going to teach you everything you want to know about them.

Before I continue, I want to make sure you read the Nitrogen Cycle Guide.

This will make what I’m going to tell you much easier to understand. If you are a beginner in the hobby, I highly recommend it!

Up to date?

Good.

Then we continue…

What are aquarium nitrites and where do they come from?

Highly nocturnal, nitrites (NO2) are a form of dissolved nitrogen that occurs naturally in the water column, which is the water in your aquarium.[1]

How nitrites end up in your aquarium is quite a journey.

And it all starts with waste.

Without waste there would be no nitrite.

Common sources of waste in aquariums are:

Uneaten fish food

fish droppings

Rotting Plants

Dirty filters

While waste leads to the occurrence of nitrites, this is not the main cause.

To explain, here is a very brief summary of the nitrogen cycle.

1. Ammonia is released when waste is decomposed.

2. A bacterium called Nitrosomonas breaks down the ammonia into nitrites.

3. A second bacterium called Nitrobacter then feeds on the nitrites and produces nitrates.

So nitrites would not exist without ammonia.

The process of bacteria converting ammonia into nitrites is called nitrification.

What nitrite levels are acceptable in your aquarium?

The acceptable level of nitrite in your aquarium is…

Zero.

Yes, you’ve read that correctly…

Nitrites are pretty bad news. In a full tank, the level should therefore show 0 ppm (parts per million).

The bacteria in an established tank should be present in sufficient numbers to break down nitrites at the moment they are produced – resulting in a zero reading on the test.

If your nitrite levels are above zero, you need to find the source of the problem quickly.

However, there is an obvious exception to this rule…

When cycling a new tank.

In a new tank, bacteria are not present in sufficient numbers to break down the nitrites as they are being produced.

This is actually a big part of why you need to recirculate your aquarium – to allow the bacteria that live in your biological filter and break down nitrites to grow.

So when you cycle a new tank, expect high nitrite levels.

What happens if the nitrite levels in the aquarium are too high?

Once nitrite levels exceed zero, your fish will eat them – they have no choice.

When the nitrites enter the fish’s bloodstream, they prevent the blood from carrying oxygen. The more nitrites your fish absorb, the less oxygen the blood can carry.[4]

Oxygen is a big deal because your fish need it to live.

So you certainly know what happens when your fish ingest too many nitrites, right?

Suffocation!

What a horrible path.

What’s interesting is that it doesn’t matter how oxygenated your aquarium is, your fish can still suffocate.

An aquarium with all the aquarium bubblers and surface activity in the world isn’t going to help your fish if they can’t extract oxygen from the water.

This entire process is called nitrite poisoning.

Important: Do not confuse nitrites with nitrates. Although there may only be one letter that differentiates them, the two are very different.

The toxicity of nitrites depends entirely on the fish species. While some are fairly tolerant, others die at the slightest hint. In some fish, as little as 0.29 ppm nitrite is fatal.[4]

But just because your fish can tolerate it doesn’t mean it’s healthy. Your fish are probably under an incredible amount of stress….

When fish are stressed, they are more likely to develop disease, lose their color, suffer from stunted growth, or even become unable to reproduce.[4]

It’s simple – keep your nitrite levels at zero to keep your fish happy and healthy.

FishLab Fact: Chloride reduces nitrite uptake by your fish. And do you know what contains a lot of chloride? Salt. Because of this, marine fish are more tolerant of nitrites than freshwater fish.

What causes high nitrite levels in the aquarium?

Does your tank have any of the following characteristics?

overfeeding

A sudden accumulation of waste

No nitrifying bacteria in the filter

Weak filtering

Crowded aquarium

If this is the case, your tank is at high risk for elevated nitrite levels.

FishLab Fact: A sudden increase in nitrite levels is called a nitrite spike.

Even if there is a sharp rise in ammonia levels, a sharp rise in nitrites will soon follow.

Why?

The bacteria responsible for converting ammonia into nitrites are multiplying rapidly because their food source has increased – releasing more nitrites than your aquarium can handle.

As you may have noticed, most causes of high nitrite levels can be corrected with good housekeeping and regular maintenance.

How do you test for nitrite?

Nitrite testers are available at pet stores, fish stores, and even online.

Let’s take a closer look at some of the most popular nitrate testers on the market.

API Nitrite Test Kit

check price

Holds up to 180 tests

When it comes to measuring your nitrite levels, an aquarium test kit is the easiest and most affordable method.

If you go to your local fish store, this will likely be the nitrite test kit they keep on the shelf. API test kits can be found almost anywhere.

That’s not a bad thing. API nitrite test kits are cheap and work well enough. For the average hobbyist, these are fine.

If you bought the API Master test kit, you already have this test kit among many others.

Like many nitrite test kits, this one has a flaw.

This is all thanks to the interference of amines.[1]

In certain cases, such as in reef aquariums, essential amino acids can cause these tests to show lower nitrite levels than actually occur in your tank.

And that could prove fatal.

Fortunately, there are nitrite tests that circumvent this problem.

Unfortunately, many of these test kits are expensive.

But not this one…

Salifert nitrite NO3 test kit

check price

Lasts up to 60 tests

This nitrite test kit hits the sweet spot of price and performance.

It may not last as long as the API test kit, but it makes up for it by being easy to use and providing accurate results – no amine interference here!

The Salifert nitrite test set is particularly popular with saltwater aquarium owners.[1]

I personally use Salifert because I find these kits easier to use.

Since it’s available for just a few dollars more than the API kit, I recommend making this your go-to nitrite test kit.

Although nitrite test kits are easy to use, their accuracy depends on your ability to follow the directions.

I highly recommend reading the instruction manual thoroughly before using any test kit. Skipping a simple step such as B. shaking the bottle, can lead to an incorrect reading.

Hanna nitrite colorimeter

Hanna freshwater nitrite tester

Hanna Marine nitrite tester

If you’re willing to spend a little more money for the sake of accuracy, Hanna Instruments’ nitrite tester bridges the gap between the cheaper chemical test kits and the more expensive probe meters.

Just add your water sample, combine it with the reagent from the kit, and the prover gives you a digital readout.

While the checker comes with some reagents, you’ll burn through it quickly. Refill packs are readily available, but they incur ongoing costs.

Just make sure you get the correct reader for your aquarium – the freshwater nitrite monitor can give an incorrect reading when used with saltwater.

How do you lower nitrite levels?

Did you just test your nitrite levels and found them shockingly high?

No panic!

I will tell you everything you need to do in case of a nitrite spike.

1st water change!

A 30-50% water change should be the first thing you do after confirming a nitrite spike.

You exchange nitrite-containing water for nitrite-free water.

Essentially what you are doing is diluting the amount of nitrite that is present in your aquarium.

Performing a water change buys you time before you can use another method below to get your nitrites under control.

2. Add cyclic filters

As I mentioned earlier, bacteria convert nitrites into much less harmful nitrates.

In sufficiently large numbers, these bacteria eat up nitrites as fast as they are produced.

So you introduce more of them into your aquarium.

You see, in a cyclic tank, these bacteria are present in large numbers in the filter.

Adding a filter from a cycling tank to an aquarium with a nitrite spike will cause the bacteria to start eating all the nitrites, lowering the levels.

Unless you have multiple tanks, however, it can be difficult to track down a cyclic filter. If you have a good relationship with your local fish shop you might be able to pick one up.

FishLab Tip: If you have more than one tank, use a sponge filter to go through multiple filters at once. When a cyclic filter is needed, simply remove a sponge filter from one tank and add it to another.

3. Water conditioner

This is essentially a nitrite remover in a bottle. Just follow the instructions and watch the nitrites magically disappear from your aquarium.

Water conditioners bind the nitrites, making them harmless to fish and giving your filter bacteria the opportunity to catch them and convert them into nitrates.

I make no secret that my favorite water conditioner is Seachem Prime…

check price

Not only does it detoxify nitrites, but it also tackles almost any other water quality issue that can arise![2]

I highly recommend keeping a bottle handy in case of an emergency.

And believe me, a nitrite spike is definitely an emergency.

While these methods help lower nitrite levels, they don’t stop the cause of the spikes.

Having nitrite levels under control for the moment, now is the time to track down the source of the problem.

How do you prevent nitrites from accumulating?

If you’re reading my guides on ammonia and nitrates, you’ll be aware of the advice I’m about to give you.

This is because ammonia, nitrite and nitrate have a common cause.

Everything starts with waste.

By controlling waste, you minimize any problems further down the nitrogen cycle.

While these tips won’t remove or reduce existing nitrites in your aquarium, they do prevent new nitrites from building up as quickly – and that’s a good thing!

1. Don’t overfeed your fish!

The more your fish eat, the more they will poop. And the more they poop, the faster the nitrites will build up in your aquarium.

I would also add that any food that is not eaten will sink to the bottom and rot. And do you know what that means? More nitrites and nitrates!

Remember, just because you don’t overfeed your fish doesn’t mean someone else in your family won’t.

I learned this the hard way…

I kept finding scraps of food rotting in the corner of my aquarium. I feed my fish a pre-measured amount and they eat every last bit. But where that extra food came from was beyond me.

Well, turns out my nephew sneaked in and fed the fish when I wasn’t looking. Secret revealed.

2. Take care of your plants

If you have live plants in your tank, you’ll need to incorporate a little underwater gardening.

Old leaves on your plant will die off.

When this happens, the leaves fall off and rot, which can lead to an increase in nitrite levels.

You can prevent this by doing a little light pruning.

Any time you see dead or dying plant parts, cut them off and remove them from your aquarium.

3. Clean your filter

You know all those loose bits of food, plant matter, and poo? Well, they get sucked up and caught by your filter.

Over time, this waste will accumulate.

Regular maintenance will prevent accumulated waste from reaching problem levels.

A popular solution is to use an intake sponge filter – literally a sponge that covers the inlet to your filter.

The sponge catches any debris that swims through the water, trapping it before it reaches your filter.

Simply remove the sponge to clean it – no more disassembling your filter!

4. Buy a gravel vacuum

Your substrate can quickly become a graveyard of rotting fish food, dead plants, and whatever else gets caught in it.

All this contributes to the formation of nitrites in the water.

A gravel vacuum is one of the most effective ways to remove it from your substrate.

Easy to use, affordable and effective – if your aquarium has a substrate, there’s little excuse for not owning a gravel vacuum.

Ideally, you should run a gravel vacuum during most, if not all, water changes.

5. Monitor your inventory

An overstocked aquarium will have more nitrite problems than an understocked one.

It’s inevitable. Too many fish in a small tank creates more waste than the tank can handle, which is a surefire recipe for nitrite levels to spike.

If your tank is overfilled, you have two solutions:

Get rid of some of your fish or

Buy a larger aquarium.

I know saying goodbye to Pisces can be difficult, but it’s for their own good. You will only suffer in a crowded pool anyway.

Or, if you’re not ready to say goodbye to your fishy friends just yet, buy a larger tank.

You’ve been looking for a good excuse to buy a bigger aquarium and nitrite issues are a good reason to upgrade!

Don’t be tempted to buy more fish now that you have a larger tank – that’s what got you into this whole mess in the first place.

Do you have any nitrite tips? Let me know in the comments below!

View Full Version : Nitrites WILL NOT go down

danthemanxx1 I have done many water changes and also added a bacteria supplement to help the GOOD bacteria grow and still nothing

could it be that I need to replace my filter cartridge or stop changing the water and leave it alone or what

It gets very frustrating because the fish seem perfectly fine. like my corys platy and guppies… and also my molly and guppy fry (which I think would have the least chance for the fry with SO bad water). but today 2 of my zebrafish started just sitting on the ground and one died earlier today

what else can I do?

I know I posted a thread about the same problem maybe a week or two ago, but I really need help

Goes until 11! 1. Nitrites & not nitrates right?

2. What are the actual numbers you are currently testing for all parameters?

3. What % WC do you do?

4. Have you tested your spring water to get a baseline?

Taurus water changes are the only way to lower your nitrite levels. Keep the changes and remember that water changes don’t slow down a tank cycle.

Lady Hobbs You have to breed the nitrite eating bacteria and these bacteria will reduce them to 0. If you remove every bit of it with water changes, you won’t be able to grow the bacteria. Honestly I would leave them alone as long as they don’t get too high. Nitrites are toxic, but not as potent as ammonia.

DO NOT change your filter media. Or you start the whole process from the beginning.

Do you also check ammonia and nitrates?

danthemanxx1 yes nitrites

and my water levels are

nitrates = 0

Nitrites = between 5.0 and 10.0, but much closer to 10 (although I don’t know why all my fish aren’t dead yet)

Ammonia = 0 (which I’m confused about… is it possible that this has such high nitrites)

pH=7-7.1

I’ve done about 5 20-30% water changes

and 2 50 percent changes in the last week

Could it be something I have in the tank like the piece of driftwood or the 3 small marble chips. Are there such things that would make the level so high?

Lady Hobbs Have you tested your tap water?

What tester do you have that goes to 10? I think you mean 1.0, which is ONE, not TEN.

I would leave the water changes alone as long as it stays below 1.0. Nitrites will increase and then drop to 0 once they’ve grown bacteria.

danthemanxx1 and yes I have tested the water I fill it with from my sink and there are no nitrites or nitrates

Lady Hobbs When did you first add your fish and start cycling? With fish it takes much longer than a fishless cycle and requires more patience. Could take a month.

danthemanxx1 I’m using the test strips which I know aren’t the best way to go but I’m heavily dependent on money at the moment. but the meter for nitrites reads starting at 0, then up 1.0, then 3.0, then 5.0, then 10.0

could it be that initially I might have overfed them too often and now my filter cartridge is too dirty and it should be changed

Taurus If you test 0 for nitrates, your cycle is not complete. Such high nitrites are not only toxic for the fish, but can also block a cycle.

DO NOT replace the filter cartridge. I would do a water change to lower the nitrites.

Lady Hobbs Why don’t you take a water sample to the fish shop and ask them to test it for you?

If the filter is very dirty, just give it a little scrubbing with your fingers in the tank water you dump and replace it. Don’t change it or you will lose all your bacteria. And don’t clean it with tap water!

When nitrite levels are highest on the scale, a water change is needed. But I wouldn’t try to bring it down to 0 by changing the water or you’ll stop bacterial growth.

But no… the wood or gravel doesn’t cause nitrites.

danthemanxx1 I took a water sample to my fish shop and they also said everything is fine except for the nitrites and they said I could add plants as they help and/or change the water. but I have plants and have made many changes

I think the best thing I could do is add more bacteria supplements and maybe change water every other day or something

Stlouisfish I don’t think bacteria supplementation will help cycle your tank – your fish produce ammonia and your filter needs to grow bacteria to break down the ammonia. You might have made “a lot of changes,” but when you’re cycling with fish in the tank, water changes are the name of the game until the cycle is complete and your ammonia and nitrite levels both show 0. Water changes need to be done to ensure ammonia and nitrites stay at safe levels (but I’m sure you know that).

Tiari When using test strips, the longer the test strips are left after immersion, the higher the reading will be. Read the test strip within the first thirty to sixty seconds. The nitrite test on a strip is fairly instantaneous, but it darkens once it’s moist and exposed to air.

Goes until 11! I took a water sample to my fish shop and they also said all is good except for the nitrites and they said I could add plants as they help and/or change the water. but I have plants and have made many changes

I think the best thing I could do is add more bacteria supplements and maybe change water every other day or something

Please post the actual numbers you got from testing.

You cannot toilet on a schedule while cycling. You have to test daily [with a fluid kit] and toilet if the results call for it.

Lady Hobbs, I also believe that you are not getting accurate readings on the paper strips. They said the fish were active and fine and I don’t think they would behave like that at nitrite levels of 10.

Again, I suggest taking a water sample to the fish shop and asking about the nitrite level. Simply saying you show nitrites doesn’t give you enough information. This can range from high to barely visible.

When you bike with fish, you have to change the water to keep the fish alive, but you still have to have some of those toxins to keep the bacteria growing. That’s why some say change the water and others say don’t change the water. But it all depends on these levels.

If you remove everything you won’t continue the cycle, but if it is indeed high and you don’t you will kill the fish. This is why you are getting conflicting information in this post. It’s because we really don’t know WHAT you have to read.

A liquid test kit is everything in this hobby. I believe they should be bought before any fish are bought. It’s like buying a new car and not having money for gas.

nasty stench nitrates will eventually go down. I started with a Pisces in the cycle and it seems that sometimes it will never end, but one day you will suddenly be in the cycle at once.

You need to know your exact nitrate levels to know how much water to change. For example, if they are 2.0, a 75% water change will reduce them to 0.5. You need an accurate reading to do this calculation.

On the other hand, if your nitrates seem unmanageable, you should finish.

Good luck with that and don’t get discouraged.

danthemanxx1 Well today I tested my water and the nitrites have gone down but a little but now nitrates are showing up…is that a good thing and are nitrates as bad as nitrites? Does this mean the cycle is almost over? The nitrates start to show up

Sir Tristen Your cycle is going well. Nitrates are the end product of the nitrogen cycle. Your nitrites should keep going down and your nitrates should keep going up. . . Until the water change. Changing water or plants are the only ways to get rid of nitrates.

danthemanxx1 are nitrates which are as toxic as nitrites

Goes until 11! At first no, eventually yes.

Have you already bought a liquid test kit? If not, why not?

You’re doing your fish a disservice if you don’t have the tools to monitor their surroundings.

Lady hobbs are nitrates which are as toxic as nitrites

Your tank is finally moving on. Nitrites peak and then immediately fall, and nitrates rise. If you’ve been doing a lot of water changes, chances are you’ve been keeping your nitrates low, or would have seen them by now. Now don’t worry until the nitrites are 0. Nitrates should be kept at 20 or below when the tank is done.

Nitrate will eventually go down.

Nitrates don’t go down. they go up.

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So this is from the Smart Start website:

What effect should StartSmart have and when should these effects be visible? All measurable ammonia levels should be gone within 24 hours and all measurable nitrites are eliminated within 48 to 72 hours after administration.

So if you had ammonia, it will be gone. Do you know if you had ammonia to begin with? Dead snail or???

So it doesn’t get rid of the nitrite. Maybe the bottle was bad or it doesn’t work as claimed. Or you and your LFS have bad test results. Probably not. Or you somehow add ammonia and nitrite to the tank.

One last thought. What kind of water did you fill your tank with?

Fish excrete ammonia as a nitrogenous waste product through their gills. The toxic ammonia is converted into nitrite by beneficial bacteria in the aquarium, which is also toxic to the fish. Fortunately, in an established aquarium that is fully cycled, other bacteria will convert nitrite to harmless nitrate. However, in new aquariums where the bacterial population has not grown enough to detoxify the waste from the fish in the aquarium, ammonia can quickly build up to toxic levels.

Nitrite poisoning follows closely on the heels of elevated ammonia as the main killer of aquarium fish. Just when you think you have no home left after losing half your fish to ammonia poisoning, nitrite levels rise, putting your fish at risk again. Any time ammonia levels are elevated, elevated nitrite levels will soon follow. To avoid nitrite poisoning, test the water when setting up a new tank, when adding new fish to an existing tank, when the filter fails due to electrical or mechanical failure, and when treating sick fish.

Names: brown blood disease, nitrite poisoning

Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite Poisoning Disease Type: Environmental

Environmental Cause/Organism: Nitrite

symptoms

Fish gasp for air at the surface of the water

Fish hang near water outlets

Fish are listless

Brown gills

Rapid gill movement

Nitrite poisoning is also known as “brown blood disease” because an increase in methemoglobin causes the blood to turn brown. However, methemoglobin causes a more serious problem than just changing blood color. It makes the blood unable to carry oxygen and the fish can literally suffocate even though there is plenty of oxygen in the water.

Different fish species tolerate different levels of nitrite. Some fish may just be listless, while others die suddenly with no obvious signs of illness. Common symptoms include panting at the water surface, hanging near water outlets, rapid gill movements, and a change in gill color from normal pink to dark brown.

Fish that are exposed to low levels of nitrite themselves over a long period of time suffer damage to their immune systems and are susceptible to secondary diseases such as ICH, fin rot and bacterial infections. When methemoglobin levels rise, damage to the liver, gills, and blood cells occurs. If left untreated, affected fish eventually die from lack of oxygen and/or secondary diseases.

Treatment of nitrite poisoning

Big water change

Add aquarium salt (sodium chloride) or a sea salt mix

Reduce feeding

increase ventilation

First, perform a water change with dechlorinated water to lower nitrite levels. The addition of half an ounce (1 tablespoon) of salt per gallon of water prevents methemoglobin toxicity by blocking nitrite uptake by the fish’s gills. Any aquarium salt or sea salt blend can be used. Do not use iodized table salt. Aeration should be increased to ensure adequate oxygen saturation in the water. Feeding should be reduced and no new fish should be added to the tank until ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero. This reduces the formation of excess ammonia, which is converted into nitrite. It is important to continue daily testing and treatment until nitrite levels drop to zero.

prevention tips

Store new tanks slowly

Feed sparingly and discard uneaten food

Change water regularly

Test the water regularly to catch problems early

The key to eliminating fish kills is to avoid extreme spikes and prolonged nitrite elevations. When starting a new tank, only add a few fish at first and don’t add more until the tank is completely drained. In this way, as the levels of ammonia produced by the fish increase, the population of beneficial bacteria grows. In an established tank, only introduce a few new fish at a time and avoid overstocking.

Feed fish small amounts of food and remove uneaten food within five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, making sure to remove dead plants or other debris. Carry out a partial water change at least every two weeks, more often in small, heavily filled tanks. Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike has occurred as there will be a nitrite spike later. The beneficial bacteria in the biofilter eventually convert the nitrite into harmless nitrate, but even that should be removed with regular partial water changes.

Nitrate and nitrite are naturally occurring ions that are part of the nitrogen cycle.

Naturally occurring nitrate levels in surface and groundwater are generally a few milligrams per liter. An increase in nitrate levels can be observed in many groundwaters due to the intensification of agricultural practice. Concentrations can reach several hundred milligrams per liter. In some countries, up to 10% of the population may be exposed to nitrate levels in drinking water above 50 mg/l.

In general, vegetables are the main source of nitrate intake for humans when levels in drinking water are below 10 mg/l. When nitrate levels in drinking water exceed 50 mg/l, drinking water is the main source of total nitrate intake.

Extensive epidemiological data support the current guideline value for nitrate nitrogen of 10 mg/l proposed by the World Health Organization (WHO). However, this value should not be related to nitrate nitrogen, but to the harmful chemical substance nitrate itself, which is why the guideline value for nitrate is 50 mg/l. Click here for more information on this.

nitrification

Nitrification is the oxidation of an ammonia compound to nitrite, specifically by the action of the nitrifying bacteria called Nitrosomas. The nitrites are then oxidized to nitrates by the bacteria Nitrobacter.

Nitrate is less toxic than nitrite and is used by living plants as a food source.

The process of converting ammonia to nitrate is shown schematically in the nitrogen cycle.

Nitrification is fastest at a pH of 7-8 and at temperatures of 25-30oC. The pH value of the water drops as a result of nitrification.

Ecotoxicology of nitrite and nitrate

Nitrite levels above 0.75ppm in water can cause stress in fish and above 5ppm can be toxic.

Nitrate levels of 0-40ppm are generally safe for fish. Anything over 80 can be toxic.

Click here for more information on nitrate.

Click here for more information on nitrite.

Nitrates are generally very low in natural waters, partly due to the high rate of dilution due to large volumes of water, but also due to the hydrological cycle.

A common practice to reduce nitrate levels in the aquarium is to change the water. In reality, however, water changes are more a matter of nitrate dilution than removal.

How to remove aquarium nitrate:

Consider it:

Assuming there is 40 ppm nitrate before a 20 percent water change, 80 percent or 32 ppm will remain after the water change. Since regular tap and well water normally contains nitrate, and assuming the average level is around 10ppm, our water change had little impact on the aquarium’s total nitrate levels.

Clean your aquarium with ALGONE Offer your fish the healthiest possible habitat. Round out your hard work and grooming efforts with naturally cleansing ALGONE…more info Buy 2 get 1 FREE

What can we do to help remove nitrates from the aquarium?

Aquarium plants must be healthy to absorb nitrite. First and foremost, plants need powerful lighting to thrive. The guideline of using lights rated at 1.5 to 5 watts of light per gallon of aquarium provides enough light for plants to thrive. Different plants need different amounts of light to thrive, some need higher light, on the 5 watt end of the range, and others need less. Research your special species. Most aquarium plants benefit from the addition of carbon dioxide to the tank through injectors or liquid supplements. Without these needs, plants cannot absorb nitrogen.

Nitrite is a toxic pollutant and high levels can be fatal to your fish. Matt Clarke explains what causes the nitrite spike and what you can do to save your fish in a water quality crisis…

What is nitrite?

Nitrite (NO2) is a highly toxic pollutant produced by bacteria when they break down fish waste and other organic matter through a process called nitrification.

Beneficial filter bacteria called Nitrosomonas oxidize deadly ammonia (NH4) from decomposing materials and fish waste to nitrite, which is slightly less toxic to fish. Other bacteria, such as Nitrospira and Nitrobacter, then convert the nitrite into nitrate (NO3), which is comparatively only slightly toxic. It is very important to regularly test your water for signs of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Why does nitrite build up?

High nitrite levels result from producing too much dirt for the beneficial bacteria to deal with.

Filter bacteria are present in proportion to the amount of pollution entering the tank and take time to grow to a level where they can handle all the pollution created by the fish.

As they build up their numbers to try to use up all the food available to them, the water becomes polluted with ammonia and nitrite, which is stressful for the fish. If there are many bacteria and a constant amount of waste is added every day, the ammonia and nitrite levels should remain at zero.

What causes high nitrite levels?

Overfeeding and overstocking can lead to high nitrite levels, but improper filter maintenance and new tank syndrome are perhaps the most common causes.

New filters (and media that have been washed with tap water or replaced with new ones) contain few bacteria and are not able to remove much pollution. Depending on the temperature and chemistry of the water, the bacteria generally take 4-6 weeks to establish or mature.

Only wash filter media in old aquarium water, not under running water, and always replace media one at a time, not all at once.

To speed up the growth of bacteria in new filters, you can transfer some media from an existing filter or add a bacterial starter culture and food source.

If you have a new tank or filter, don’t add too many fish and don’t add too much food. The more debris that enters the tank, the more dangerous the conditions become for any fish present.

How does it harm the fish?

Nitrite enters the blood of the fish via the gills and can harm the fish in various ways.

Most notably, it oxidizes the iron in their hemoglobin to produce a molecule called methemoglobin, which unlike hemoglobin, cannot carry oxygen through the blood. This process (called methemoglobinemia) sometimes turns the blood brown and causes extreme difficulty breathing or even choking.

Nitrite also accumulates in the blood causing poisoning and can damage the liver, gills and blood cells.

Prolonged exposure to nitrite makes the immune system less effective and the fish can suffer from diseases such as white spot and bacterial infections such as fin rot or ulcers if they have not already died from nitrite poisoning.

What symptoms can the fish show?

Affected fish often pant due to difficulty breathing or hang at the surface of the water where oxygen levels are highest. They usually move their gills faster and can keep their fins close to their bodies. Although fish can show some signs of nitrite poisoning, you can’t tell how much is present unless you test the water.

Is it toxic to all fish?

Different species of fish and even different individuals of the same species can have different tolerances to nitrite. Some species can reduce the rate at which it enters the blood through the gills, and its toxicity is also affected by water chemistry. Therefore, not all fish in the tank or pond will become ill or die from an increased nitrite level.

What level should I aim for?

The nitrite level should always be zero or as close to zero as possible. Under certain conditions, even relatively low nitrite levels of 0.25 mg/l can be enough to weaken sensitive species. Anything above 0.1 mg/l should be considered unacceptable and a potential source of stress, although some fish may tolerate very high levels.

Check the form in which the nitrite result is given. Some results need to be converted from nitrite to nitrogen.

What should I do if I detect nitrite?

Your first action after finding nitrite should be to figure out why the level is high and try to make sure what caused it never happens again. Then do a large partial water change (50% or more) to dilute the nitrite concentration in the water.

Test daily and be prepared to do more water changes to bring levels down.

Losses are always higher when the dissolved oxygen level is lower, so increase the dissolved oxygen level by adding an air stone or using a venturi. Watch the fish closely to see if they develop any disease.

What can I add to make nitrite less toxic to the fish?

Aquarium salt (sodium chloride) has long been used as an aid in reducing nitrite toxicity as it has been shown to prevent methemoglobinemia under certain conditions.

Some fish farmers dislike using salt, but in my experience, when used at the right dosage, it has never caused any problems in fish, even species that are stereotypically salt intolerant. Relatively low salinity can significantly reduce the toxicity of nitrite, so you don’t need to add much.

Research suggests that a 10:1 dose (just 10mg/L salt per 1mg/L nitrite) is effective for most freshwater species. Adding salt to combat disease or osmoregulatory issues requires higher doses!

Why does adding salt help?

The addition of salt provides chloride, which reduces both methemoglobinemia and the toxicity of nitrite in the blood. Interestingly, although the chloride has always been provided by sodium chloride, recent research suggests that calcium chloride may work just as well, if not better, as it is thought that the extra calcium also reduces gill permeability, preventing as much nitrite from being absorbed into the body blood enters the gills.

Because of this, fish kept in waters with higher levels of calcium and chloride are typically less sensitive to nitrite than those in freshwater with low levels of chloride and calcium – but many sea creatures remain sensitive.

In theory, fish kept in warm, soft water (e.g. discus) are at greatest risk, but nitrite can and does kill fish in all water conditions.

What is nitrate?

Nitrate is an inorganic compound that occurs in the environment under various conditions, both naturally and synthetically. It is one of the most common groundwater contaminants in rural areas. It is found in fertilizers, manure and liquid waste from septic tanks. Natural bacteria in the soil can convert nitrogen into nitrate. Nitrate can enter groundwater through rain or irrigation water, raising concentrations to unsafe levels.

Nitrates are used primarily in fertilizers and are more likely to be found in water supplies near areas of concentrated agricultural activity. If you live near a farm, there is a much greater chance that your drinking water is high in nitrates. Poorly built wells are particularly vulnerable to contamination.

The US Environmental Protection Agency was given responsibility for setting drinking water standards for all states, and each state became responsible for enforcing those standards. The maximum contaminant level for nitrates set by the EPA is 10 milligrams per liter (mg/L), or parts per million. State law requires that public water systems test for nitrate and notify residents if the level rises above 10 mg/L. Unless otherwise stated, nitrate levels usually refer only to the amount of nitrogen present.

Dangers of nitrate and nitrite in drinking water

Methaemoglobinaemia is the most significant health problem associated with nitrates in drinking water. Blood contains an iron-based compound called hemoglobin that carries oxygen. When nitrite is present, hemoglobin can be converted to methemoglobin, which cannot carry oxygen. Elevated levels of methemoglobin in the blood can cause serious illness or death when the amount of oxygen carried by the blood is severely reduced.

Short-term exposure to drinking water with nitrate levels at or just above the health standard of 10 mg/l nitrate-N is a potential health problem, particularly for infants. Blue baby syndrome, also known as infant methemoglobinemia, is a condition that causes a baby’s skin to turn blue. This happens due to a decreased amount of hemoglobin in the baby’s blood.

Babies who are fed formula with nitrate-rich water run the risk of their bodies converting nitrates into nitrites. These nitrites bind to hemoglobin in the body and form methemoglobin, which cannot carry oxygen. The most common cause of blue baby syndrome is water contaminated with nitrates.

How can I reduce nitrate levels in my current water supply?

Since nitrate does not evaporate like chlorine does, boiling, freezing or standing water does not reduce nitrate levels. In fact, boiling water for more than 10 minutes can concentrate nitrate more. Boiling water in an aluminum pan can also convert nitrate to nitrite. Nitrite can be formed from nitrate through a chemical process called reduction. Nitrate does not usually cause health problems unless reduced to nitrite. Nitrates are odorless, colorless, and tasteless; You will not notice the presence of nitrates in your water simply by drinking it.

Homeowners who have experienced high concentrations in their water supply should first consider the source of nitrates and nitrites and see if there is a way to reduce the number of contaminants, such as reducing the number of contaminants. B. by repairing a defective septic tank or a defective sewage system. Keep in mind that while public water supplies are routinely tested, if you use a private water supply, tests for nitrates are not performed. You can have your water tested at a private lab for minimal cost (around $10-$15).

Nitrate can be removed from drinking water by distillation, reverse osmosis or ion exchange. A water softener is typically used to treat hard water, but can also remove nitrate and nitrite with the right media. Water softeners use an ion exchange process that replaces minerals with sodium. These compounds are then removed from the plasticizer filtering resin by a backwash process. Water softeners filter the entire home’s water supply as it enters the home, not just the drinking and cooking water. If you are considering using a water softener to remove nitrate from your water supply, you will need nitrate and nitrite specific resin to effectively remove this contaminant.

There are a number of selective media that will actively remove nitrates, but by far the most common and easiest to use nitrate removal technology is reverse osmosis. A reverse osmosis (RO) system uses a non-selective membrane to remove almost all dissolved contaminants from the water. RO systems use a special anion resin ion exchange media specifically designed for nitrate removal. This type of filtration can remove dissolved solids, chemicals, and other contaminants by creating pressure and forcing water through a semi-permeable membrane.

As the water passes through the membrane, it effectively leaves behind impurities. Sediments and impurities collected in the filters are safely washed down the drain. About 85-95% of the nitrates in your water can be removed with reverse osmosis, depending on the initial water quality, system pressure and water temperature. An added benefit of the RO process is that it removes many contaminants, not just nitrates.

A quality RO system like the Genesis RO is an under-sink filtration system that delivers up to 50 gallons of purified drinking water per day. This system is NSF Standard 58 approved, meaning it is designed to reduce contamination in either public or private drinking water. It has also been tested to meet the Water Quality Association’s Gold Seal standards. The Gold Seal is the industry’s strongest assurance that a water treatment product has passed rigorous testing requirements, annual manufacturing facility audits, and conforms to Water Quality Association certification programs.

If you want to make your water safe, take steps to eliminate contaminants. Ion exchange technology and reverse osmosis effectively reduce and remove nitrates while improving your overall water quality and making the water in your home better for you and your family. With the right water treatment system, a large number of other contaminants can be removed. Learn more about what you can do to improve your home’s drinking water by calling (847) 462-9000 and speaking to a friendly expert at Discount Water Softeners.

Cycling your new aquarium is the first important step to becoming successful in the aquarium hobby. But how do you know when your aquarium has gone?

Well I’ve raced over a dozen aquariums and in this article I’m going to tell you when to tell your aquarium is raced and ready to add fish to it.

After you have tested your aquarium water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and the reading shows 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and some nitrates, your aquarium has gone through a cycle. Cycling a new tank usually takes between four and six weeks.

Cycling your aquarium can take a long time. And I know after testing your aquarium water it can be very frustrating not seeing 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite levels. But cycling in your aquarium is a very important step in creating a healthy environment for your fish.

Also, there are some mistakes beginners make that can further increase the time it takes to cycle an aquarium. I will cover these errors later in this article.

How do I know when my aquarium has cycled if I’m doing fishless cycling?

If you’re doing fishless cycling, use some type of ammonia source to add to your aquarium.

So, to know if your aquarium is cyclic or not, you need to put ammonia in your aquarium and wait about 24 hours.

Just make sure the ammonia you add is no more than 5ppm as this can block the nitrogen cycle.

Test your aquarium water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate after 24 hours. You can easily perform these tests with an aquarium water test kit.

If you don’t already have a test kit, I recommend the API master test. It’s a fairly accurate test kit, and it comes with helpful instructions on how to use it.

You can check the reviews and current price on Amazon here.

If, after running the tests, the test shows 0 ammonia levels, 0 nitrite levels and some nitrate levels, you can conclude that your aquarium is cyclic!

At this point, your aquarium contains beneficial bacteria that can convert ammonia, which is harmful to the fish, into nitrites (which is also harmful).

But your tank will also have good bacteria that can turn nitrite into nitrate as it appears.

Now nitrate is less harmful to fish and your fish can tolerate nitrate levels of up to 40ppm!

Should I do a water change while fishless cycling? (Does it affect the cycle)

How do I know when my aquarium has cycled if I’m Fish-in Cycling?

With fish-in cycling, you use uneaten fish food and waste produced by the fish as a source of ammonia to start the nitrogen cycle in your aquarium. It generally takes about six weeks to cycle an aquarium using the fish-in-cycling method.

With fish-in cycling, the behavior of your fish can tell you whether your aquarium is cycling or not.

If, after about six weeks of adding the fish to your tank, you’ve only changed the water every two weeks and still don’t see any signs of stress in your fish, you can say your tank has gone through a cycle.

At this point your aquarium probably has the beneficial bacteria converting the harmful ammonia and nitrite into less harmful nitrate.

But to be sure if your aquarium is cyclic or not, it’s a good idea to test your aquarium water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.

You can easily perform the tests with an aquarium water test kit. I recommend the API master test. It is a very accurate test kit and it comes with helpful instructions on how to use it.

You can check the reviews and current price on Amazon here.

So wait about 24 hours after the next water change in the tank and then test your aquarium water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate with the test kit.

If the test shows 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and some nitrate, this is a very good early sign that your aquarium is cycling.

However, to be 100% sure, you should do the tests daily for the next 7 days.

If after running the tests for 7 days you see 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and nitrate levels increasing every day for the 7 days you can conclude that your aquarium is cyclical.

What happens if you don’t drive an aquarium? (is it really necessary)

Is there a way to speed up the cycle process?

There is a way to cycle your aquarium right away!

Cycling in an aquarium is basically home to beneficial bacteria that can convert harmful ammonia and nitrite into less harmful nitrite.

If you cycle your aquarium by “fish-in-cycling” or “fish-less cycling” in a “traditional/organic/natural” manner, i. H. first add ammonia to the aquarium. Then, after some time, beneficial bacteria appear in your tank that convert ammonia into nitrite.

After that, another type of beneficial bacteria grows in your tank and converts the nitrite into nitrate.

Then this method will take a while. It typically takes about four to eight weeks to complete the nitrogen cycle using this method.

Actually, I wrote a detailed article on this topic. You can check it here.

But instead of waiting for the beneficial bacteria to grow organically in your aquarium, what if you could add the beneficial bacteria directly to your aquarium!

Luckily, there are a few ways to introduce the beneficial bacteria to your new tank. And if you get it right, your aquarium will be up and running again in an instant!

Will live plants help cycle my tank? (answered)

How can you introduce beneficial bacteria to your new aquarium and cycle it right away?

Basically, you can add beneficial bacteria from an established aquarium to your new tank. Or there are a few brands that sell beneficial bacteria in bottles. You just need to empty the bottle in your tank to add the beneficial bacteria to your tank.

How do I add beneficial bacteria from a cycle tank?

Beneficial bacteria form their colonies in the filter, particularly on the filter media of a cycle aquarium.

So when you put the filter or filter media from a cycling tank into your new tank, the beneficial bacteria will be added to your new tank. And this is what your new aquarium will go through immediately.

Well, a potential problem with this approach to changing an aquarium is that when you add the filter or filter media from a cycle tank to your new tank, if the cycle tank is infected with harmful bacteria and viruses, you may also be introducing those harmful bacteria add or viruses in your tank.

So the solution to this problem is that you should get the filter or filter media from a trusted source.

What is the fastest way to cycle a freshwater aquarium? (4 easy ways)

Add a bottle of beneficial bacteria to your new tank

There are several brands that sell beneficial bacteria in small bottles. All you have to do is empty the bottle in your new tank and you’ll have beneficial bacteria in your tank.

The problem with these bottles, however, is that sometimes the beneficial bacteria are dead in the bottle! And the dead beneficial bacteria will not cycle your aquarium.

The thing is, beneficial bacteria are living organisms that need food and oxygen to survive. And they may not get the food and oxygen in the bottle for a long time.

So sometimes it happens that when you empty the bottle in your new tank, the bacteria are dead.

Well, that doesn’t always happen, but it does happen often.

So, unfortunately, with this approach to cycling an aquarium, you’ll just have to rely on luck!

So get a bottle of beneficial bacteria. Add it to your tank. Then add ammonia to your tank.

Now wait about 24 hours.

Test your aquarium water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate after 24 hours.

If the test shows 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and some nitrate levels, you can say the beneficial bacteria are alive and working!

Below are some of my recommended bottles of beneficial bacteria. People have had good experiences with it.

Dr.Tim’s Aquatics Freshwater One & Only Nitrifying Bacteria – Check reviews on Amazon here

Fritz Aquatics FritzZyme 7 nitrifying bacteria for freshwater aquariums – Check out Amazon reviews here

Bugs that can slow down the nitrogen cycle in your aquarium

There are some mistakes that you may not be aware of that can slow down or block your aquarium’s nitrogen cycle.

1. Not maintaining pH

If the pH of your aquarium water is below 7, it can slow down or block the nitrogen cycle in your aquarium.

To avoid this mistake, you should regularly check the pH of your aquarium water with a test kit.

If you find that the pH is below 7, a water change of about 20% of your aquarium water can increase the pH of your aquarium water.

2. The aquarium contains a lot of ammonia

Ammonia is food for beneficial bacteria. But a lot of ammonia, more than 5 PPM (parts per million), is toxic to them. So if your aquarium has more than 5 PPM of ammonia, it can stop the nitrogen cycle.

For this reason, after adding ammonia to your aquarium, you should check the ammonia level in your aquarium and make sure it is below 5 PPM.

Or if you catch fish while cycling or use another source of ammonia instead of pure ammonia like fish food, you should check the ammonia levels in your tank daily.

Can I use fish food to cycle my tank? (and how it works)

How do I introduce a fish to your new aquarium?

Once your aquarium has driven, you can put fish in it.

However, you should not put the fish directly into your tank.

Before you introduce the fish to your new tank, you need to acclimatize the fish.

Acclimating a new fish is very important as it can prevent the sudden shock the new fish might get if you introduce them to your aquarium right away.

How do I acclimate a new fish?

To acclimate a new fish, simply hold the poly bag containing the fish hovering above the water surface of your aquarium for about 20 to 30 minutes.

As a result, the temperature of the water in the polybag slowly adjusts to the water temperature in your aquarium.

This is important because if there is a big difference in water temperatures and you have introduced the fish directly into your aquarium, it can cause severe shock to the fish.

Another thing to keep in mind when adding a new fish to your aquarium is that you should not put the water in the poly bag in your aquarium.

This is especially important if the fish is delivered to your home. Because in this case the fish is probably in the polybag for a few days and the water can therefore contain a lot of fish excrement and therefore ammonia.

In addition, the water can also contain harmful bacteria and viruses!

So the right way is to put the fish in your aquarium with a fishnet.

The video below shows you exactly how to acclimate your new fish and properly place it in your tank.

Conclusion

During the aquarium cycle, you should regularly test the water in your aquarium for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

If the tests began to show 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and some nitrate, you can conclude that your aquarium is cyclic.

If it’s been a few weeks and your aquarium still hasn’t run, don’t stress about it. It typically takes four to eight weeks to cycle an aquarium.

Just make sure you don’t make the mistakes I mentioned in this article that can slow or stop the nitrogen cycle.

After your aquarium’s cycle, be sure to acclimate the new fish before adding them to your tank. The video I included in the article will help you put your new fish in the tank correctly.

I hope you found this article helpful.

If yes, please share it with everyone who is just starting out in the hobby.

Happy fishing!

Related article:

Does a hospital tank have to be driven?

How do you cycle a quarantine tank?

Nitrite is a toxic pollutant and high levels can be fatal to your fish. Matt Clarke explains what causes the nitrite spike and what you can do to save your fish in a water quality crisis…

What is nitrite?

Nitrite (NO2) is a highly toxic pollutant produced by bacteria when they break down fish waste and other organic matter through a process called nitrification.

Beneficial filter bacteria called Nitrosomonas oxidize deadly ammonia (NH4) from decomposing materials and fish waste to nitrite, which is slightly less toxic to fish. Other bacteria, such as Nitrospira and Nitrobacter, then convert the nitrite into nitrate (NO3), which is comparatively only slightly toxic. It is very important to regularly test your water for signs of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Why does nitrite build up?

High nitrite levels result from producing too much dirt for the beneficial bacteria to deal with.

Filter bacteria are present in proportion to the amount of pollution entering the tank and take time to grow to a level where they can handle all the pollution created by the fish.

As they build up their numbers to try to use up all the food available to them, the water becomes polluted with ammonia and nitrite, which is stressful for the fish. If there are many bacteria and a constant amount of waste is added every day, the ammonia and nitrite levels should remain at zero.

What causes high nitrite levels?

Overfeeding and overstocking can lead to high nitrite levels, but improper filter maintenance and new tank syndrome are perhaps the most common causes.

New filters (and media that have been washed with tap water or replaced with new ones) contain few bacteria and are not able to remove much pollution. Depending on the temperature and chemistry of the water, the bacteria generally take 4-6 weeks to establish or mature.

Only wash filter media in old aquarium water, not under running water, and always replace media one at a time, not all at once.

To speed up the growth of bacteria in new filters, you can transfer some media from an existing filter or add a bacterial starter culture and food source.

If you have a new tank or filter, don’t add too many fish and don’t add too much food. The more debris that enters the tank, the more dangerous the conditions become for any fish present.

How does it harm the fish?

Nitrite enters the blood of the fish via the gills and can harm the fish in various ways.

Most notably, it oxidizes the iron in their hemoglobin to produce a molecule called methemoglobin, which unlike hemoglobin, cannot carry oxygen through the blood. This process (called methemoglobinemia) sometimes turns the blood brown and causes extreme difficulty breathing or even choking.

Nitrite also accumulates in the blood causing poisoning and can damage the liver, gills and blood cells.

Prolonged exposure to nitrite makes the immune system less effective and the fish can suffer from diseases such as white spot and bacterial infections such as fin rot or ulcers if they have not already died from nitrite poisoning.

What symptoms can the fish show?

Affected fish often pant due to difficulty breathing or hang at the surface of the water where oxygen levels are highest. They usually move their gills faster and can keep their fins close to their bodies. Although fish can show some signs of nitrite poisoning, you can’t tell how much is present unless you test the water.

Is it toxic to all fish?

Different species of fish and even different individuals of the same species can have different tolerances to nitrite. Some species can reduce the rate at which it enters the blood through the gills, and its toxicity is also affected by water chemistry. Therefore, not all fish in the tank or pond will become ill or die from an increased nitrite level.

What level should I aim for?

The nitrite level should always be zero or as close to zero as possible. Under certain conditions, even relatively low nitrite levels of 0.25 mg/l can be enough to weaken sensitive species. Anything above 0.1 mg/l should be considered unacceptable and a potential source of stress, although some fish may tolerate very high levels.

Check the form in which the nitrite result is given. Some results need to be converted from nitrite to nitrogen.

What should I do if I detect nitrite?

Your first action after finding nitrite should be to figure out why the level is high and try to make sure what caused it never happens again. Then do a large partial water change (50% or more) to dilute the nitrite concentration in the water.

Test daily and be prepared to do more water changes to bring levels down.

Losses are always higher when the dissolved oxygen level is lower, so increase the dissolved oxygen level by adding an air stone or using a venturi. Watch the fish closely to see if they develop any disease.

What can I add to make nitrite less toxic to the fish?

Aquarium salt (sodium chloride) has long been used as an aid in reducing nitrite toxicity as it has been shown to prevent methemoglobinemia under certain conditions.

Some fish farmers dislike using salt, but in my experience, when used at the right dosage, it has never caused any problems in fish, even species that are stereotypically salt intolerant. Relatively low salinity can significantly reduce the toxicity of nitrite, so you don’t need to add much.

Research suggests that a 10:1 dose (just 10mg/L salt per 1mg/L nitrite) is effective for most freshwater species. Adding salt to combat disease or osmoregulatory issues requires higher doses!

Why does adding salt help?

The addition of salt provides chloride, which reduces both methemoglobinemia and the toxicity of nitrite in the blood. Interestingly, although the chloride has always been provided by sodium chloride, recent research suggests that calcium chloride may work just as well, if not better, as it is thought that the extra calcium also reduces gill permeability, preventing as much nitrite from being absorbed into the body blood enters the gills.

Because of this, fish kept in waters with higher levels of calcium and chloride are typically less sensitive to nitrite than those in freshwater with low levels of chloride and calcium – but many sea creatures remain sensitive.

In theory, fish kept in warm, soft water (e.g. discus) are at greatest risk, but nitrite can and does kill fish in all water conditions.

As a fish owner, I always want to make sure my fish get the best possible conditions. Water changes are a big part of this and I was wondering if it would be possible to change the aquarium water too often. After my research I found this.

Can you change aquarium water too often? Do not change the water more than once a day. If you want to keep your aquarium water pristine, a daily water change is beneficial. Just make sure you know how to do a proper water change. There might be more to it than you think.

However, there are a few things you should know. Always make sure the water you add matches the aquarium water parameters and never change more than 50% of the aquarium volume at a time. Read on to learn about one of the most important aspects of the aquarium hobby: water changes.

Why changing water once a day is the maximum

Many aquarium owners who enjoy breeding fish know that daily water changes for fry are very beneficial for them. It could even be you! So why do I recommend changing the water no more than once a day?

Well, the water you add to the aquarium needs to mix with the aquarium water. It is almost impossible to fill the tank with water that is exactly the same as the aquarium water. The temperature, pH and other parameters are different. To see the optimal parameters or what those parameters mean, you might find this article I wrote enlightening.

Aquarium fish (and sometimes also plants) love stability. If the parameters are not quite perfect, but stable, your fish will not mind. If the pH is 0.5 higher than what an employee at your local fish shop recommends, it’s not a problem.

The parameters fluctuate with every water change. This leads to stress in our fish. Only once a day is not a problem, but more often it is not appreciated by the fish. It can lead to undue stress and possibly even fish kills.

How to do a water change safely

Water changes that cause stress are obviously not what we want. How can we reduce the stress on aquarium fish when changing the water? There are a few things you can consider that will cause less stress.

Tip: Your best friend when changing water is a siphon. You can use a gravel vacuum to suck up water and clean your gravel at the same time. I always recommend this affordable gravel vacuum on Amazon. Try it, you won’t be disappointed.

remove water

As a rule of thumb, when changing the water, never remove more than 50% of the aquarium water at once. Why is that? Well… there is a risk of destroying the beneficial bacteria that live in your tank. These bacteria help break down ammonia into less toxic products.

For example, if you were to do a 100 percent water change (again, never do this), there’s a high chance you’re depriving the bacteria of food for too long, killing them.

Another reason why over 50% is too much is that if you change too many water parameters at once, the shock to the fish increases. Changing water values ​​cause stress. This can even be the case if an extremely high concentration of nitrates has built up over time due to lack of care. This is also known as “old tank syndrome”. Read this article I wrote if you want to know if your tank has Old Tank Syndrome.

For an effective (daily) water change, remove about 25% of the water at a time.

As you remove water, make sure to vacuum the bottom of your tank. Unfortunately for us there is no fish that eats all the droppings from the aquarium, we have to do that ourselves. Some people will add a “clean-up crew” of fish to clean them up, but know that they are by no means a replacement for maintenance.

By vacuuming the gravel, you can remove any fish droppings, uneaten food, and organic plant matter that has collected on the bottom of the tank. This is very important and makes for a great water change as it will start to rot if left uncared for. You don’t want another source of ammonia in your tank as this will kill your fish.

Adding new water

In theory, you want the water you add to your aquarium to be exactly the same as the aquarium water.

To do this, make sure you use a pre-treatment agent to treat your tap water. This removes chlorine and chloramine from your tap water to make it safe for your fish. I have written an article on chlorine and chloramine removal in the past. Here you can find out more about why, how and with what you should treat your tap water.

The second parameter that you can easily control is the temperature. You want the water you add to be at the temperature of the aquarium water. Honestly, I always guess what feels right. If you want to be more precise, you can measure the temperature in the bucket with a thermometer.

When adding the water to your aquarium, be sure to do it gradually. To do this, you can set up a siphon that slowly drains the water from a bucket into your aquarium.

If you add the water all at once, you will find that the substrate, plants, ornamental plants and fish in your aquarium will be severely disturbed by the sudden strong current in your tank. Even if the water parameters do not exactly match the aquarium water, the shock will be quite sudden. This also causes stress for your fish.

What is the purpose of a water change

Whenever you do water changes, remove debris from your fish from the aquarium and replace it with clean, fresh water. The waste can come from rotting plants, leftover food, or even dead fish.

The main source of waste is your fish, they produce ammonia, which is toxic in low concentrations. Ammonia is converted into nitrite, which in turn is converted into nitrate. Nitrate is less toxic at low concentrations, but if you allow it, it becomes toxic and causes stress to your fish. What you remove: nitrate.

And yes, you can add live plants to your aquarium to help with cleaning. This is actually a pretty good plan as they also look nice and provide cover for your fish. I even wrote a full article about it, so I won’t go into too much detail here.

Removing this nitrate ensures that the water remains safe for your fish to live in.

My Favorite Aquarium Products That Make Life Easier I’m so happy you like this post so far! You will also like my product recommendations that will make your aquarium hobby that much better. I am 100% sure you will love them! Check them out here: 1. A good gravel vacuum; Cleaning the substrate of your aquarium is almost impossible without a gravel vacuum. Whenever I want to clean up some of that sunken junk from the bottom of my tank, I’m glad I have one of these. Click here 2. Liquid Plant Fertilizer; It’s no secret that I don’t like nutrient-rich aqua soil. It makes a mess and only works for a certain amount of time. Instead, I always use a liquid aquarium plant fertilizer. Everyone who keeps live plants needs it, it’s not that expensive and makes your plants grow better. Click here 3. A set of aquascape tools; I love keeping plants, but planting and reorganizing my aquarium was difficult until I got a set of these tools. It’s a lot easier to plant any kind of plant than with my fat fingers. Click here 4. A liquid based water testing kit; Since I can test my water values ​​precisely, keeping fish has become less stressful. Before I used to get stressed that my water readings were wrong, but with a kit like the API Master Kit I can measure that. It is really important for successful aquaristics. Click here 5. A digital thermometer; The more you know about your aquarium, the better! Temperature is critical to the health of your fish. A thermometer also shows you whether your heaters are still working properly. It will give you more insight and more peace of mind. click here

Conclusion

In conclusion, yes, you can do too many water changes. Doing more than 1 water change per day will put unnecessary stress on your fish. This is because the water parameters fluctuate.

If you really want to do the maximum number of water changes, stick to 1 water change per day instead. Never change more than 50% of the water at a time as this can kill the beneficial bacteria in the aquarium.

related questions

What is the normal amount of water changes people normally do? Most people do a weekly or bi-weekly water change, replacing 25% of the aquarium with fresh water. This ensures that the water stays healthy and does not accumulate excessive nitrate.

What is the lowest number of water changes you can do? If you plan properly and add a lot of live plants to your aquarium, you can only do the water change once a month. This is because the plants remove some of the nitrate from the water. You could theoretically remove all of the nitrate, but a build-up of nitrates is dangerous. This is known as old tank syndrome.

references

Feature Tank Image – Author: Emilia Murray Licensed by CC2.0 No changes

Water change image – Creator: osseous Licensed under: CC2.0 no changes

What is New Tank Syndrome?

“New tank syndrome” often occurs in the first few weeks of a new aquarium and is caused by an immature filter.

New Tank Syndrome is a term used to describe problems caused by the accumulation of unseen, toxic compounds in an aquarium. It gets its name because the problem is most likely to occur when your filter matures when starting a new aquarium. It can take up to 2 months for the full population of friendly bacteria to become established in your filter at a level where they are able to process all of the waste produced by your fish.

New Tank Syndrome is very common and can be a very frustrating and annoying beginning of fish keeping as it often results in the death of your beautiful fish. However, understanding its causes can help you minimize or completely avoid problems.

Understanding the role of your filter and in particular the chemistry of the “nitrogen cycle” powered by biological filter bacteria before you start your aquarium is the best way to prevent new tank syndrome in the first place.

The nitrogen cycle is a natural biological process that occurs in your filter and helps maintain a healthy environment for your fish. The image below explains how the nitrogen cycle works, bacteria living on the biological media in your filter converting very toxic ammonia excreted by fish and breaking down waste into less toxic nitrite and then into relatively safe nitrate.

However, it takes a while for this nitrogen cycle process to become established in a new filter. You can help prevent the buildup of toxic waste that causes New Tank Syndrome by:

Adding a product like Fast Filter to your first few fish will help your filter bacteria mature faster.

with your first few fish, which helps your filter bacteria mature faster. Introduce fish gradually, starting with a few “hardy” species that can handle the waste levels in a new aquarium. Once the filter has matured (the entire nitrogen cycle is set up so that there is no ammonia or nitrite present), slowly add a few fish at a time until you have reached the recommended maximum stocking level for your aquarium to allow the friendly bacteria to grow appropriately can the waste produced by the fish.

Feed sparingly at first, fish need much less food than many people think and are used to going long periods in the wild without food. In the first few weeks it is important to feed sparingly once or twice a day and remove uneaten food after 5 minutes. More fish die from overfeeding than from underfeeding, and the excess feed makes the filter’s job much harder.

Monitor your water quality! Many water problems are invisible to us, so don’t just sit back and assume everything is fine in there. Test the levels and note the results, it makes it much easier to fix a problem later.

and make a note of the results, this makes it much easier to troubleshoot an issue later. Perform regular water changes – 25% once a week in new aquariums – this will remove and dilute toxic waste compounds (ammonia and nitrite) to help as the filter matures. Later, you can reduce the frequency of water changes to once a month.

Remember that patience and vigilance are key. Don’t rush, enjoy your aquarium.

Fish pollute the water when they breathe and defecate, but they’re not adapted to living in their own waste. The only way for us aquarists to keep fish in the aquarium is through biological filtration and water changes. Without these, fish would be poisoned by the water they live in and die.

Filters become colonized with beneficial bacteria that convert toxic ammonia excreted by fish first into nitrite (also toxic) and then into nitrate. The easiest way to remove nitrate is to do a water change. Nitrate is a constant build-up in your aquarium (because it’s a by-product of biological filtration). So if you remove a percentage of the aquarium water with new water (with a lower nitrate content), the nitrate level will go down.

Change the water frequently and although tap water contains some nitrate, it is usually lower than the level in the tank. Test your tap water and aquarium water for nitrate. Try to keep the tank water at 40 parts per million or less. For this, your tap water needs to be below 40ppm and ideally below 10ppm. If tap water has high nitrate levels, consider doing the water change with reverse osmosis water that is purified instead.

The water should also be changed to lower phosphate levels, remove tannins and stains, and buffer pH and KH. Fish tend to grow faster in tanks with regular water changes, so water changes can also remove growth-inhibiting hormones that rivers don’t accumulate in the wild.

The frequency of the water change should therefore be based on the nitrate content in the water. Low in nitrates and technically your water shouldn’t need to be changed, although a change is beneficial in the other ways listed above as well.

When changing water, never remove all of the tank water, and little and often is best. Set a regime and stick to it. Remember that filter media should only be cleaned in old aquarium water, so the water change is the perfect time to combine filter cleaning. The muddy water can then be used to water your plants.

Start a routine of 25% water changes every two weeks. If that keeps nitrate levels down, stick to the regimen or you can even substitute a little less. If nitrate levels are still rising, you need to change more water at a time, e.g. 30%, or more frequently, e.g. B. weekly.

If you dechlorinate properly and keep the water at the same temperature, there’s really no limit to how often you can change the water. Professional fish farmers can change the water daily to remove excess food and encourage maximum growth.

But if you don’t change the water often enough, nitrate levels rise, pH and KH levels drop, and you get what’s known as old tank syndrome, where the pH drops so low that the biological filter isn’t working properly works, only your hardy fish might survive, but newly purchased fish will die within hours or days of adding them.

How do you do a water change

For a water change you need a siphon hose and a bucket. You should not start the siphon by sucking on the pipe for hygiene reasons, instead look for one that can be started by hand. Put one end of the hose in the tank, the other end in the bucket on the floor, start the siphon and you’re gone. Keep an eye on the tank end to make sure small fish aren’t being sucked into the pipe and the bucket end to make sure it doesn’t overflow.

Discard the dirty tank water and take the bucket to the sink. Fill with cold water, some warm water and check the temperature to make sure it is the same as in the tank. Add liquid dechlorinator as directed, swirl around by hand, then leave for one minute. Pour the water back into the tank and your water change is done. If the pump runs dry due to the water drawn off, turn the pump off before changing the water and turn it on again afterwards.

Water changes with gravel clean

Buy an aquarium siphon tube and it will almost always come with a wide bore gravel cleaning attachment. Gravel vacuums are great because you have the ability to clean your gravel and do a water change at the same time. Leftover food and fish droppings accumulate in the aquarium gravel and may contain nitrate, so it is best to remove it.

Choose a gravel cleaner that fits your tank size. Too small and takes a long time to remove water. Too big and it may not fit under the tank cap, may have trouble starting suction and removes water too quickly, draining the tank.

Other ways to do a water change

In small nano tanks one could simply use a 1 liter measuring cup. You know its volume and it’s very quick and easy. In huge aquariums, you could literally scoop up water with a bucket, even though it’s hard physical work.

If you don’t want to stretch your back, you can just pump water out of the tank. Connect an aquarium head or pump to a long hose and run the other end of the hose into the garden or down a drain. Just make sure you don’t forget to pump out all the water, or an unprotected pump inlet won’t suck your fish in.