No Central Heating In House? The 230 Detailed Answer

If you have been reading my blog for a while you will know that we have had absolutely no heating of any kind in this house for the last two winters. When we toured this house (and read the sales form) we were over the moon that it had a boiler and radiators – our previous house had zilch, just old electric storage heaters that cost an absolute bomb – so much we never bought them for have used three whole years. But of course we never really looked for the boiler as we were so blown away by the beauty of this house. Surely it is enough to see radiators in a building?

Umm.. no. The boiler in this property turned out to be a very old backboiler (from the 60’s/70’s!) that resembled a gas fire in the fireplace. I had never heard of any of these things before – but they are NOT energy efficient enough to be taken off the grid (I’m speaking literally!) and they are also known to produce carbon monoxide. In short, they cost a flaming arm and leg to run and lose half the heat up the chimney, so we never used them. And we’ve removed it now

Although we have a few radiators (only four in our 4 storey house!) changing to a new boiler system will cost us the same as a complete new installation – between £3000 and £4000. Unfortunately we don’t have that much money and I would rather put our money into things that improve our daily living situation (new kitchen, bathroom) than into something that we only benefit from in winter. We’ve lived without heating for five years, it’s not ideal, it’s not up-to-date, BUT we can cope with our situation.

Being young and having health on our side means this really isn’t a big issue. It’s great for saving money, and if you’re just changing a few things around the house, it doesn’t have to be super uncomfortable and deadly cold either.

So I thought I would put together a list of changes you can make (most of which we have made and use) that may help you get through the winter without central heating….

1. Opt for plug-in energy saving electric radiators

a few hundred per radiator. I mean, if you had that kind of money, you’d probably put in gas central heating, wouldn’t you?!? No – not them. Let me be very clear – NOT storage heaters. No no no. Invented by the devil, storage heaters serve absolutely no purpose other than to take all your money and give nothing back. While you can get modern storage heaters, which I hear great things about, these will set you back. I mean, if you had that kind of money, you’d probably put in gas central heating, wouldn’t you?!? No – not them. I’m talking about plug-in heaters, or heaters that can be hardwired into your existing outlet circuit. There’s no need to break the bank – prices start from £100 per radiator and they don’t cost a fortune to run either. With fast heat-up times and a clever thermostat control, they don’t run constantly, meaning they save energy and money. You can choose which radiators you want on so you don’t have to have them all on at once (unlike central heating) and if you can’t afford many radiators – even with just one or two ALL can make the difference. Believe me. I’ve written quite a few posts on the subject before – if you’re specifically looking for a stylish design electric radiator, check out this post for my top picks for designer look radiators. (Not all of these radiators are necessarily cheap to run!) But for affordability and cheap operation, I recommend checking out Best Electric Radiators and My Electric Radiators. Both are cheap to buy, can be connected directly and the actual operating costs can be viewed online. We’re hoping to test a few different electric radiators this winter (preview one of them!).

2. Dry clothes with a heated clothes dryer

Dry clothes through the winter without heating? Oh I have. It takes about a week and ends up – your clothes took so long to dry that instead they just smell musty so you have to wash them again and start the whole cycle over. It’s a real problem. Not being able to keep warm in the winter is one thing – but have you ever experienced the struggles of getting through the winter without heating? Oh I have. It takes about a week and ends up – your clothes took so long to dry that instead they just smell musty so you have to wash them again and start the whole cycle over. It’s a real problem. Thankfully, when I was in need, Lakeland started selling heated drying racks! It’s probably the most life changing purchase I’ve made this year. Clothes really dry! Sometimes as quickly as overnight. It’s sooo cheap to run, less than 4p an hour, and it helps heat your room too. I literally cannot recommend this product enough! I think they’re fairly affordable, with starting prices around £80. But they can be found used on eBay & Gumtree for a lot less if you’re on a tight budget. Go shopping. Now! (You’ll thank me later) PS – I made a review of the heated clothes dryer which you can see here.

3. Use electric blankets and heated throws

Oh electric blankets – I remember growing up with them! In the past, insulation wasn’t very common, single glazing was still common and homes suffered as a result. Preheating the bed Electric blankets help you fall asleep for hours without tremors. Electric blanket prices are super cheap, with a decent brand costing around £20 for a double.

all night and their reviews are quite applauding. Imagine sitting in front of the TV with one of them! Styles are limited and they aren’t all cheap so I don’t have one… But I wish I wish I had! Maybe this year will be the investment? There are cheaper models but did you know there are also heated throws and pillows? Oh yes they do! They cost less than 1p and their reviews are pretty applauding. Imagine sitting in front of the TV with one of them! Styles are limited and they aren’t all cheap so I don’t have one… But I wish I wish I had! Maybe this year will be the investment? Cheaper styles are £40, with prettier throws starting at £100. Pillows are obviously cheaper, and Lakeland has the best selection in my opinion, but keep an eye on QVC too! Do you have one? Should I take the plunge? Obviously, regular unheated throws are also very beneficial 😉

4. A winter duvet is a must

Drop the 4.5 tog duvet and crack the 13.5 tog duvet. I know a lot of people have one comforter for year-round use—and it makes perfect sense, especially if you’re short on storage. BUT if you don’t have central heating and especially if you don’t have an electric blanket for the bed – this really is a worthwhile purchase! Prices vary, of course, but they can be as little as £20 for a double room. The only problem is that you don’t want to get out of bed in the morning. Soz about it.

5. Add fire!

This can be an open fire, gas fire or even a wood stove. I know these options aren’t that cheap, but they may well be worth the investment if you don’t plan on ever having central heating installed. And they still cost a heck of a lot cheaper! The gas stove in our old house really got us through the winter and this year we finally made the investment in a wood stove in our current home! We don’t really care about heating spaces like bathrooms, guest rooms and hallways, but the main living area is really where it pays to invest in heat. Having a well-heated space where you spend most of your time makes life without central heating that much easier. Each type of fire has its own different level of efficiency, but wood-burning stoves are particularly good at heating rooms quickly and transferring that heat to other rooms as well. They’re not cheap, but you can save money by doing a lot (or even all!) of the work yourself. You can read about what we have done ourselves to save money here…. And you can also read all about the best budget stove options here.

6. Draft-tight in the house

Even if you have central heating, don’t waste money and heat if your house isn’t draft proof. Draft protection options are so cheap! It’s not just about getting a new front door installed or blaming your ’90s windows! Honestly, there are so many simple fixes that can make a HUGE difference. Things like using a fabric draft excluder with doors, ensuring vents have locking mechanisms when not in use, and installing draft excluders (a type of bungee cord) between exposed floorboards can make a world of difference. Draft-ex is by far my best tip for draft-tight solutions. We used it in our old house and we used it in this house and it really works! I have already written an article on this topic, which you can read here

7. Isolate!

big difference with this one in our old house. And packs only cost about a fiver! If you don’t have insulation in your attic, get some right now! Insulation can be installed DIY style and doesn’t have to cost a fortune. If you have single-leaf walls, it might be worth considering installing insulating plasterboard as well, if you’re able to. Otherwise things like double curtains around windows and doors can actually help. If you have single glazed windows (oh boy, I empathize with you!!) then I recommend using Window Film. It completely prevents condensation and acts like a kind of secondary glazing. It’s ugly as hell, but we noticed a difference when we used it in our old house. And packs only cost about a fiver!

8. Choose carpets and rugs over hardwood floors

Carpets are much warmer than other floor coverings and they also offer good thermal insulation! If you can, choose rugs. If you can’t – there are always rugs, even if you only use them in the winter months. Both heat up much faster and help keep your room warmer for longer. There’s even a product for heating carpets (the RugBuddy), but it’s not widely available and its product name doesn’t exactly do it any favors in my opinion. Its effectiveness may still be a bit questionable at the moment – but maybe one day it will be considered?

9. Install Electric Underfloor Heating If you can’t settle for carpet, there’s always underfloor heating instead. Electric underfloor heating claims to heat rooms more effectively than radiators and of course the thermostatic control means it doesn’t need to be constantly powered either. Underfloor heating can be used under most floor coverings – but it is best to ask your flooring supplier and the underfloor heating supplier first! It’s definitely not cheap to install, and requires lifting the old flooring and reinstalling it (or buying new!) – but you can do most of the work yourself if you feel up to it. For a cheap underfloor heating I recommend a look at eBay!

10th layer up

That’s pretty obvious, but if you’re hoping for a heated house to prance around in your favorite t-shirt and short combo pajamas, think again. You need to invest in good thick hoodies and warm fleece pajamas. Solid color thermal t-shirts are great too, and slippers or slipper socks are a must too! Treat yourself to a nice dressing gown. Basically – go shopping!

11. Go old-school with a hot water bottle

Hot water bottles aren’t even necessarily made with water these days. There’s microwavable teddy bears and hand pads and earmuffs, whatever. They’re not just for kids, but they’re a great way to add a little extra warmth to your body wherever you need it. My feet are the most prone to getting cold, so I always use a hot water bottle on my feet when I’m sitting around, working, or watching TV. Other old-fashioned tips include drinking plenty of hot beverages and opting for hot meals like soup at lunchtime.

12. & Finally… Don’t forget the pets either!

My last tip doesn’t apply to yourself – it applies to all pets. If you have one, you’re already winning as you can use its heat to keep you warm and vice versa. But don’t forget that they also feel the cold, especially when left alone and if they don’t have a thick coat. There are heated mats and self-heated pet beds that are actually quite cheap. So if you are worried about having pets in a cold house, I recommend these products as well.

So these are my top tips! I know they’re not all super affordable – trust me we don’t have them all! But hopefully at least some of these points will be of use to you if you too are stuck in a house without central heating or just don’t want to (or can’t!) afford the outrageous costs.

Let me know if you don’t have central heating and also have any tips to share?!

You may have been in a situation where you were without power for several hours or even a full day or two. While this can be inconvenient, inconvenient, and costly during the warmer months of the year (replacing the groceries in your fridge), it can be more dangerous when the weather turns colder. As winter storms become more intense and unpredictable, you may be wondering, “How long will my house stay warm without electricity?”

The average home stays warm 8-12 hours after the power goes out. After the first 8-12 hours, most homes will experience gradual cooling over the next few days. These numbers will vary based on factors like the outside temperature, how your home is configured and built, and even how many people are currently living in the home!

Homeowners can help maintain their home’s temperature during a power outage by investing in home improvements ahead of the winter storm season and by taking practical steps to conserve heat.

How to keep a house warm during a power outage

Your power goes out in the middle of the night during a blustery February storm – what do you do?

Insulate your home: Keep doors and windows closed and use towels to block drafts around them. Keep the curtains closed unless the window is bringing in warm sunlight during the day.

Save body heat: Without electricity, consider your own body as a reliable source of heat. To maintain your body temperature, wear extra layers of clothing and pack blankets, hats, and gloves. Layer up before the temperatures drop, but avoid sweating, which can make you feel colder in the long run.

Move to a smaller space: Try to keep all of your family activities in one area of ​​your home and close the doors to any rooms that aren’t being used.

Use your wood-burning fireplace: If you have a fireplace, make sure it’s operational. Make sure it’s cleaned and maintained regularly, and keep a supply of dry wood, kindling, newspaper, and matches or lighters to use if the power goes out.

Related topic: How to save money with a smart thermostat

What not to do in the event of a power outage

There are just as many things you shouldn’t be doing to heat your home.

Stay safe and avoid the following mistakes, some of which are potentially deadly:

Don’t leave your car running in your garage. Having the heater in your vehicle may be tempting, but leaving the car in an unventilated garage is a fatal mistake that can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning.

Don’t try to warm your home with camp stoves, fireplaces, gas patio heaters, or charcoal grills. These portable ovens, heaters, and grills generate heat but all emit deadly carbon monoxide. NEVER operate a portable gas, charcoal, or wood-burning appliance indoors. These combustion devices are only safe to use outdoors. The same applies to gas-fired portable generators.

Don’t leave your propane stove running to warm your house. While your oven is safe for cooking, if used improperly to heat the area, your stove can become a fire hazard or source of carbon monoxide.

Don’t wait to get help. Contact friends and family who live outside the blackout zone, or contact emergency workers for safe shelter. This is particularly important for households with young or older family members.

Updates designed to keep your home warm without electricity

While storms that can cause power outages are out of your control, how you prepare for them is in your control. Homeowners can implement the following upgrades in their homes to mitigate the effects of long-term power outages during cold months.

improve insulation.

Improve ventilation (to regulate airflow and humidity).

Consider installing a whole house generator

Consider installing a backup battery and/or solar array on the roof to power your stove or heater with your own power.

Related topic: Carbon Monoxide Safety Checklist

How to prepare for a power outage in winter

Most outages only last a few hours, but some can last a week or more. According to the American Red Cross, you should have enough non-perishable food and water supplies to last at least two weeks. While you probably won’t need two weeks (or even two days) of supplies, having extra on hand means you can have peace of mind and help a friend or neighbor in need.

Next, move on to updating your emergency or first aid kit and making sure all medications for family members are available and stocked. Have enough flashlights, candles, and batteries to last at least two weeks, and keep them all together in an easy-to-access container.

Finally, plan to bundle up. Keep blankets, warm clothing, extra window coverings, and log fire accessories (if applicable) in an easily accessible place.

Prepared for any HVAC emergency

Winter storms can be unpredictable and violent. If you lose power, staying warm in extremely cold weather is crucial to the safety of you and your family. If such a situation arises, it is imperative that you follow the instructions of the local authorities.

Once power is restored, it is important to ensure your oven is working properly. Your local Aire Serv professionals are available and ready to assist you with your post-storm HVAC needs and ensure your system is running efficiently year-round. To schedule a maintenance or service appointment, call us at (855) 679-0011 or request a quote online.

Type of heating system

Hot water central heating with wood as fuel

Central heating supplies heat to several rooms within a building and is optionally also able to heat hot water from a main heat source. It is a component of heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems that can both cool and heat indoor spaces.

Overview [ edit ]

Central heating differs from space heating in that heat production takes place in one place, such as a B. a boiler room or basement in a house or a technical room in a large building (but not necessarily at the geometrically “central” point). Heat is distributed throughout the building, typically by forced air through ducts, water circulating through ducts, or steam passing through ducts. The most common method of generating heat is by burning fossil fuels in a furnace or boiler.

In much of the temperate zone, most single-family homes have had central heating since before World War II. Where coal was readily available (i.e., in the anthracite coal region of northeastern Pennsylvania), coal-fired steam or hot water systems were common. Later in the 20th century these were updated to burn fuel oil or gas, eliminating the need for a large coal storage tank near the boiler and the need to remove and dispose of coal ash.

A cheaper alternative to hot water or steam heat is hot air. A stove burns fuel oil, which heats the air in a heat exchanger, and forced-air fans circulate the heated air through a ductwork to rooms in the building. This system is cheaper because the air travels through a series of ducts rather than pipes and does not require a pipe fitter to install. The space between the floor joists can be packed up and used as a duct, further reducing costs.

The four different generations of district heating systems and their energy sources

Electric heaters are less common and only make sense with cheap electricity or when using geothermal heat pumps. If you look at the combined system of combined heat and power plant and electrical resistance heating, the overall efficiency will be lower than with the direct use of fossil fuels for space heating.[1]

Some other buildings use central solar heating, in which case the distribution system usually uses water circulation.

Alternatives to such systems are gas heating and district heating. District heating uses the waste heat from an industrial process or power generation plant to provide heat to neighboring buildings. Similar to cogeneration, this requires underground piping to circulate hot water or steam.

history [edit]

Ancient Korea[ edit ]

An illustration of the ondol system

Use of the ondol has been found at archaeological sites in what is now North Korea. A Neolithic archaeological site, around 5000 BC. Discovered at Unggi, Hamgyeonbuk-do, in modern-day North Korea, shows clear traces of Gudeul in the excavated dwelling (Korean: 움집).

The main features of the traditional ondol are an agungi (firebox or stove) accessed from an adjoining room (usually the kitchen or master bedroom), a raised masonry floor underlaid by horizontal smoke passages, and a vertical, free-standing chimney on the opposite exterior wall Draft. Supported by stone pillars or baffles to disperse the smoke, the heated floor is covered with stone slabs, clay and an impermeable layer such as oiled paper.

Early ondols started out as gudeul, providing heating for a home and for cooking. When a fire was lit in the oven to cook rice for dinner, the flame would extend horizontally because the flue was next to the oven. This arrangement was important because the smoke could not travel upwards, which would result in the flame going out too soon. Since the flame would exit through the chimney entrance, it would be carried through the ductwork with the smoke. Whole rooms would be built on top of the kiln flue to create rooms with ondol floors.[2]

Ondol was traditionally used in most Korean households before the 1960s as a living space for sitting, eating, sleeping, and other pastimes. Koreans are used to sitting and sleeping on the floor and working and eating at low tables rather than at raised tables with chairs.[3] The kiln mainly burned rice straw, agricultural crop residues, biomass, or any type of dried firewood. Straws from paddy fields or crop residues were preferred for short-term cooking, while long cooking and underfloor heating required longer-burning firewood. Unlike modern water heaters, the fuel was burned either sporadically or regularly (two to five times a day) depending on the frequency of cooking and seasonal weather conditions.

Ancient Rome and Greece[ edit ]

The ancient Greeks originally developed central heating. The Temple of Ephesus was heated by shafts planted in the ground that circulated the heat generated by fire. Some buildings in the Roman Empire used central heating systems that circulated air heated by furnaces through empty spaces under the floors and out of pipes (called potash ducts)[4] in the walls—a system known as a hypocaust.[5][6]

The Roman hypocaust continued to be used on a smaller scale in Late Antiquity and by the Umayyad Caliphate, while later Muslim builders used a simpler system of underground pipes.

For nearly a thousand years after the collapse of the Roman Empire, more primitive chimneys were resorted to overwhelmingly across Europe.

In some places in the early medieval foothills of the Alps, a simpler central heating system, in which the heat was conducted from the furnace room through underfloor ducts, replaced the Roman hypocaust. In the Reichenau monastery, a network of interconnected underfloor ducts heats the 300 m² meeting room for the monks during the winter months. The efficiency of the system was calculated to be 90%.[8]

In the 13th century, Cistercian monks revived central heating in Christian Europe, using river diversions in combination with indoor wood stoves. The well-preserved Royal Monastery of Our Lady of the Wheel (founded in 1202) on the River Ebro in the Aragon region of Spain is an excellent example of such an application.

Modern central heating[edit]

The three main methods of central heating were developed in the late 18th to mid 19th centuries.[9]

hot air[edit]

Sylvester’s convection oven, 1819

William Strutt designed a new mill building at Derby with a central convection oven in 1793, although the idea had been proposed by John Evelyn almost a hundred years earlier. Strutt’s design consisted of a large furnace that heated air brought in from the outside through a large underground passage. Air was ventilated through the building through large central ducts.

In 1807 he collaborated with another eminent engineer, Charles Sylvester, on the construction of a new building to house Derby’s Royal Infirmary. Sylvester was instrumental in the application of Strutt’s innovative heating system for the new hospital. He published his ideas in The Philosophy of Domestic Economy; as illustrated in the manner of warming, airing, washing, drying, and cooking, … in the Derbyshire General Infirmary in 1819. Sylvester documented the new types of hospital heating incorporated into the design and the healthier features such as self-cleaning and air-freshening toilets.[10] The infirmary’s novel heating system allowed patients to breathe fresh heated air while ducting old air to a central glass and iron dome.[11]

Her designs proved to be very influential. Widely copied and constantly improved in the new mills of the Midlands, they reached maturity with the work of de Chabannes on the ventilation of the House of Commons in the 1810s. This system remained the standard for heating small buildings for the rest of the century.

steam [ edit ]

Thomas Tredgold, a well-known engineer and expert on central heating systems in the early 19th century.

The English writer Hugh Plat proposed a steam-based central heating system for a greenhouse in 1594, although this was an isolated case and was not followed up until the 18th century. Colonel Coke devised a pipe system that carried steam from a central boiler throughout the home, but it was James Watt, the Scottish inventor, who first built a working system in his home.[12]

A central boiler provided high-pressure steam, which distributed heat throughout the building via a system of pipes embedded in the columns. He [clarification needed] implemented the system on a much larger scale at a textile mill in Manchester. Robertson Buchanan wrote the definitive description of these installations in his memoirs published in 1807 and 1815. Thomas Tredgold’s Principles of Warming and Ventilating Public Buildings described the method of applying superheated steam heating to smaller, non-industrial buildings. This method had replaced the hot air systems at the end of the 19th century.

hot water[edit]

Early hot water systems were used to heat the thermæ in ancient Rome.[13] Another early hot water system was developed in Russia for the central heating of Peter the Great’s Summer Palace (1710–1714) in Saint Petersburg. A little later, in 1716, water was used for heating distribution in buildings for the first time in Sweden. Mårten Triewald, a Swedish engineer, used this method for a greenhouse in Newcastle upon Tyne. Jean Simon Bonnemain (1743–1830), a French architect,[14] introduced the technique to industry at a cooperative in the Château du Pêcq near Paris.

However, these isolated attempts were isolated and mainly limited to their application to greenhouses. Tredgold initially dismissed its use as impractical, but changed his mind in 1836 when the technology entered a period of rapid development.[15]

Early systems had used low pressure water systems that required very large pipes. One of the first modern hot water central heating systems to remedy this deficiency was installed in London by Angier March Perkins in the 1830s. Central heating was becoming fashionable in Britain at this time, generally using steam or hot air systems.

Perkins’s 1832 apparatus distributed water at 200 degrees Celsius (392 °F) through small-diameter pipes under high pressure. A crucial invention in making the system viable was the threaded fitting, which allowed the connection between the pipes to withstand a pressure similar to that of the pipe itself. He also isolated the boiler from the heat source to reduce the risk of explosion. The first unit was installed at the home of Bank of England Governor John Horsley Palmer so he could grow grapes in England’s cold climate.[16]

His systems have been installed in factories and churches across the country, many of which have remained in working condition for over 150 years. His system was also adapted for use by bakers in heating their ovens and in making paper from chemical pulp.

Franz San Galli, a Prussian-born Russian businessman living in St. Petersburg, invented the radiator between 1855 and 1857, which was an important step in the ultimate design of modern central heating.[17][18] The Victorian cast-iron radiator became popular in the late 19th century as companies like the American Radiator Company expanded the market for low-cost radiators in the United States and Europe.

Energy sources[ edit ]

The energy source chosen for central heating varies from region to region. The primary energy source is chosen based on cost, convenience, efficiency and reliability. Heating energy costs are among the main costs of running a building in a cold climate. Some central heating systems may switch fuel for reasons of economy and comfort; For example, a homeowner can install a wood-burning stove with an electrical backup power supply for occasional unattended operation.

Solid fuels such as wood, peat or coal can be stored at the point of use, but are cumbersome to handle and difficult to control automatically. Firewood is still used where it is plentiful and the occupants of the building do not mind transporting fuel, removing ash, and tending the fire. Pellet fuel systems can stoke the fire automatically, but still need to remove the ash manually. Coal was once an important domestic heating fuel but is now uncommon and smokeless fuel is preferred as a replacement for open fireplaces or stoves.

Liquid fuels are petroleum products such as heating oil and kerosene. These are still commonly used where other heat sources are unavailable. Fuel oil can be fired automatically in a central heating system and requires no ash removal and little maintenance of the combustion system. However, the variable price of oil in world markets results in erratic and high prices compared to some other energy sources. Institutional heating systems (e.g. office buildings or schools) can use low-quality, inexpensive bunker fuel to power their heating systems, but the capital cost is high compared to easier-to-handle liquid fuels.

Natural gas is a common heating fuel in North America and Northern Europe. Gas burners are automatically controlled and require no ash removal and little maintenance. However, not all areas have access to a natural gas distribution system. LPG or propane gas can be stored at point of use and replenished periodically by a mobile tank mounted on a truck.

In some areas, electricity is available at a low cost, making electric heating economically viable. Electric heating can either be purely resistance heating or use a heat pump system to utilize the inferior heat in the air or in the ground.

A district heating system uses centrally located boilers or water heaters and circulates heat energy by circulating hot water or steam to individual customers. This has the advantage of a central, highly efficient energy converter that can use the best available immission control measures and is operated professionally. The district heating system can use heat sources that are impractical for use in individual households, such as: B. heavy oil, wood by-products or (hypothetically) nuclear fission. The distribution network is more expensive to build than gas or electric heating and is therefore only found in densely populated areas or compact communities.

Not all central heating systems require purchased energy. Some buildings are powered by local geothermal heat, using hot water or steam from a local well to provide building heat. Such areas are unusual. A passive solar system does not require purchased fuel, but must be carefully designed for the site.

Calculation of the required heating power[edit]

Heat outputs are measured in kilowatts or BTUs per hour. For placement in a house, it is necessary to calculate the heating and the power required for the house. This calculation is done by gathering a variety of factors – namely, what is above and below the space to be heated, how many windows there are, the type of exterior walls in the property, and a variety of other factors that determine the level of thermal output required needed to adequately heat the room. This calculation is called a heat loss calculation and can be done using a BTU calculator. Depending on the result of this calculation, the heating can be precisely tailored to the house.[19][20][21]

billing [edit]

The heat output can be measured using a heat cost allocator, so that each unit can be billed individually even though there is only one central system.

Types of central heating[edit]

Water heating [ edit ]

Active indirect water heater

Circulating hot water can be used for central heating. Sometimes these systems are referred to as hot water heating systems.[22]

Common components of a water circulating central heating system include:

A supply of fuel, electric power or district heating supply lines

A boiler (or district heating heat exchanger) that heats the water in the system

Pump to circulate the water

Radiators through which the heated water flows to give off heat to the rooms.

The circulating water systems use a closed circuit; the same water is heated and then heated again. A closed system is a form of central heating in which the water used for heating circulates independently of the building’s normal water supply.

Expansion tank in a closed system

A straight braided fill loop used to fill water into a closed central heating system in the UK

An expansion tank contains compressed gas that is separated from the water in the closed system by a membrane. This allows normal pressure fluctuations in the system. A safety valve allows water to escape from the system if the pressure gets too high, and a valve can open to top up water from the normal water supply if the pressure gets too low. An alternative to open vent systems are closed systems, which allow steam to escape from the system and be replaced from the building’s water supply via a feed and central storage system.

Heating systems in the UK and other parts of Europe typically combine the need for space heating with hot water production. These systems are less common in the United States. In this case, the heated water flows in a closed system through a heat exchanger into a hot water tank or hot water tank, where it heats water from the normal drinking water supply for use on hot water faucets or appliances such as washing machines or dishwashers.

Hydronic underfloor heating systems use a boiler or district heating system to heat water and a pump to circulate the hot water in plastic pipes installed in a concrete slab. The pipes embedded in the floor carry heated water, which conducts the heat to the floor surface, where it releases the thermal energy to the space above. Hydronic heating systems are also used with antifreeze solutions in ice and snow melting systems for sidewalks, parking lots and streets. They are more commonly used in commercial and whole house underfloor heating projects, while radiant electric heating systems are more commonly used in smaller “point heating” applications.

Steam heating[ edit ]

A steam heating system utilizes the high latent heat given off when steam condenses into liquid water. In a steam heating system, each room is equipped with a radiator connected to a low-pressure source of steam (a boiler). Steam entering the cooler condenses and gives up its latent heat, returning to liquid water. The radiator, in turn, heats the air in the room and provides some direct radiant heat. The condensed water returns to the boiler either by gravity or with the assistance of a pump. Some systems use only a single tube for combined vapor and condensate return. Because trapped air prevents proper circulation, such systems have vent valves to allow air to be released. In residential and small commercial buildings, the steam is generated at relatively low pressure, less than 15 psig (200 kPa) [citation needed].

Steam heaters are rarely installed in new build single family homes due to the cost of the piping. Pipes must be carefully sloped to avoid clogging with trapped condensate. Compared to other heating methods, power control of a steam system is more difficult. However, steam can be sent between buildings on a campus, for example, to allow the use of an efficient central boiler and inexpensive fuel. Tall buildings take advantage of the low vapor density to avoid the excessive pressure required to circulate hot water from a basement-mounted boiler. In industrial plants, process steam used for power generation or other purposes can also be tapped for space heating. Steam for heating systems can also be obtained from waste heat boilers, which otherwise use waste heat from industrial processes.[23]

electric heater [ edit ]

Electric heaters or resistance heaters convert electricity directly into heat. Electric heat is often more expensive than heat produced by combustion appliances such as natural gas, propane, and oil. Electrical resistance heat can be provided by baseboard heaters, space heaters, radiant heaters, stoves, wall heaters, or thermal storage systems.

Electric heaters are usually part of a fan coil unit which is part of a central air conditioning system. They circulate heat by blowing air over the heating element, which is fed to the stove through return air ducts. Fans in electric furnaces move air over one to five resistive coils or elements, typically rated at five kilowatts. The heating elements are activated individually to avoid overloading the electrical system. Overheating is prevented by a safety switch called a limit controller or limit switch. This limit controller can shut down the oven if the fan fails or if something is blocking the airflow. The heated air is then returned through the house through supply ducts.

In larger commercial applications, central heating is provided by an air handler containing similar components to a furnace, but on a larger scale.

A data furnace uses computers to convert electricity into heat while processing data.

Heat pumps[ edit ]

In mild climates, an air source heat pump can be used to air condition the building in hot weather and to heat the building in cold weather with heat extracted from the outside air. When outside temperatures are well below freezing, air heat pumps are usually uneconomical. In colder climates, geothermal heat pumps can be used to extract heat from the ground. For economic reasons, these systems are designed for average low winter temperatures and use auxiliary heating for extreme low temperature conditions. The advantage of the heat pump is that it reduces the energy required to heat the building; geothermal spring systems often also supply process water. Even in places where fossil fuels provide most electricity, a geothermal system can offset greenhouse gas production because most of the heat is supplied from the environment and only 15–30% is used as electricity.[24]

Environmental aspects[ edit ]

From an energetic point of view, a lot of heat is lost or wasted when only a single room needs to be heated, since central heating has distribution losses and (especially with forced air systems) can heat some unoccupied rooms without need. In such buildings that require isolated heating, it may be worth considering decentralized systems such as individual room heaters, fireplaces or other devices. Alternatively, architects can design new buildings that practically do without heating, such as in the passive house standard.

However, when a building needs to be heated throughout, combustion central heating can be a more environmentally friendly solution than electrical resistance heating. This is true when electricity comes from a fossil fuel power plant, with up to 60% of the energy lost in the fuel (unless used for district heating) and about 6% in transmission losses. For this reason, there are proposals in Sweden to phase out direct electric heating (see oil phase-out in Sweden). Nuclear, wind, solar and hydroelectric sources reduce this factor.

Hot water central heating, on the other hand, can use water heated in or on the building with highly efficient condensing boilers, biofuels or district heating. Wet underfloor heating has proven to be ideal. This offers the possibility of relatively easily converting to developing technologies such as heat pumps and solar combi systems in the future and thus also being future-proof.

Typical efficiencies for central heating (measured when energy is purchased by the customer) are: 65-97% for gas heating; 80-89% for oil heating and 45-60% for coal heating.[25]

Oil storage tanks, especially underground storage tanks, can also have environmental impacts. Even if a building’s heating system has long been converted to oil, oil can still pollute the environment by contaminating soil and groundwater. Building owners may feel obligated to remove buried tanks and the cost of remediation.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

Sources[edit]

Haegermann, Dieter; Schneider, Helmuth (1997). Propylaea history of technology. Agriculture and Crafts, 750 BC to 1000 c. (2nd ed.). Berlin. ISBN 3-549-05632-X.

Further Reading[edit]

The way we live has of course changed a lot since ancient times. How we cook and shop, how we socialize and work; Nothing stands still as technology and human behavior evolve. But how have the advances and variations in heating reformed and evolved to achieve the technology-based processes and products we experience today?

Together with LPG supplier Flogas, we examine the transformation of home heating – highlighting the most important developments and inventions – and analyze how these advances have changed the way we live and behave. From the old healing with a campfire to starting businesses around niche elements of central heating in the 21st century, such as e.g. B. Senior heating services three generations old, there is much to unveil.

Old heater

The earliest known form of heating was an outdoor open campfire. About 1.5 million years ago, people would gather around these to warm themselves or cook meals, and eventually the fire was transported into people’s homes, where an opening in the roof served as a funnel for the smoke.

Around 2,500 BC Solid hearths appeared around 3000 BC – some were even found during excavations in Greece. Around 1,500 BC In 300 BC, Egyptian civilization became accustomed to using bellows after realizing that they were an effective means of safely igniting flames and increasing heat. In the Middle East, around 1300 B.C. See the initial use of a major real estate selling point – underfloor heating – which was installed in King Arzawa’s Turkish palace.

The Romans

Later, the Romans improved – around 100 BC. Essentially, Roman central heating consisted of gaps beneath stone floor slabs known as hypocausts. The floor was held up by pillars above a chamber that had a fire at one end, allowing the heat beneath the floor to penetrate to the opposite side.

Of course, not everyone had the luxury of central heating, which had progressed to hollow tile walls to better heat the entire space. Only the upper class and visitors to public baths had this luxury. When the Roman Empire fell, central heating technology disappeared and homes reverted to fireplace heating for many centuries.

The Dark Times

Clay stoves appeared around AD 800, and large buildings – such as Lüneberg, the German town hall, and the Rueda Abbey in Sástago, Spain – helped revive the art of central heating with indoor stoves. However, it was the invention of the chimney in the 12th century that really gave the idea of ​​space heating a boost after the fall of Roman civilization. The very first chimneys were designed to fit in a sweeper for cleaning purposes, so they were much wider than modern versions, and the earliest known example of a chimney in England is at Conisbrough Castle in Yorkshire, built in 1185 .

The 17th and 18th centuries

Although there were few advances in home heating during these centuries, in the 16th century Louis Savot invented a type of “circulating” fireplace consisting of a raised grate that improved airflow. Later, by the early 17th century, combustion air from an outside duct was increasingly being used to heat buildings across Europe, and Russia’s monarch Peter the Great had hot water and air heating systems installed in his famous summer palace. During the century, Scottish inventor James Watt created the world’s first steam-powered heating system, using a central boiler and a network of pipes.

The Victorian Age

Then, in England in the early 19th century, William Strutt unveiled a furnace that heated air as it passed through a series of ducts and rooms as part of his mill at Derby. Basically, this construction consisted of a large furnace that heated cold air brought in from the outside via an underground passage and exhausted the heated air through central ducts in the building. The heating system was so successful that Strutt later worked with an engineer named Charles Sylvester to heat the Royal Infirmary Hospital in Derby. This is a notable point in the history of central heating as it sparked research into creating a heating system that would provide fresh, healthier, and warm air free of contaminants.

Around 1857, Franz San Galli of Russia manufactured the first radiator – constructed with large steel columns that allowed hot water to flow through and heat the air released into the room. However, as with many new inventions in this field, many people could not afford it and continued to burn wood or charcoal on open fires. But then realizing the power of electricity changed everything.

Although disputed, American Thomas Edison is generally credited with inventing electric heating around 1880, and it was around this time that the first thermostat became available. In the UK, we’ve also made waves with electric heaters. In 1891 Herbert John Dowsing exhibited an all-electric cooking appliance at the Crystal Palace Electrical Exhibition and went on to develop heaters used in domestic settings that efficiently radiated heat outward throughout the room.

20th century heater

However, electric heaters were notoriously unsafe when it came to safety, with inadequate safeguards and unprotected, extremely hot elements! In fact, it wasn’t until the 1950s that electric rod heaters became more widely used and safety conscious, and by the 1960s daytime electricity consumption in the UK skyrocketed – but that had its downsides. Power plants couldn’t be shut down at night when electricity demand hit a trough and they needed a way to increase usage during this low usage period. To solve the problem, storage heaters were launched that would use electricity overnight to heat thermal bricks inside, then the user would simply turn their heater on as normal during the day (which frees up the energy) before turning their heater back on let it charge overnight.

Central heating began to take off in Britain around 1970, but average families didn’t typically have homes with radiators – these were for the very wealthy – and solid fuels were still widely used over open fires to heat rooms and water. In the 1980’s, central heating was commonplace and it even changed the nation’s health, average home design and homeowner behavior!

Warmer homes meant a reduction in winter mortality rates. According to the National Institute for Health and Care Excellence, the number of deaths among people in the coldest 10% of homes increases by almost 2.8% for every degree Celsius drop in temperature, as opposed to a 0.9% increase in deaths for every degree Celsius drop in the warmest 10% of households.

Additionally, a BBC article highlights the shift in how we dress and decorate our homes. The average temperature of a home today is 22°C, compared to 18°C ​​in the 1950s. Instead of putting on a sweater or cardigan, people simply turn on the heating when they’re cold, which means they dress in shorts or short-sleeved tops as they please – rather than letting the temperature dictate their dress code.

Similarly, improvements in central heating and insulation technology allowed for larger living rooms and open plan kitchens that were not too cold. Now many homeowners are also choosing to renovate their attics to create additional living space – something that would have been unthinkable at a time before central heating – and laminate floors and curtainless windows are standard.

If you look at photos from the 1930’s and earlier, you’ll see that the fireplace, stove, and hearth were the focal points of the room. These were large and used throughout the day for a range of household chores. But now the focal point of our main room has changed – replaced by the Smart TV. Even the way we use our homes has changed, with teenagers enjoying their own space in bedrooms year-round and parents getting extra work done in the upstairs study in the evenings.

The future of heating

The way we heat our homes is constantly evolving along with technological advances and changing living spaces. A better understanding of safe and efficient heating elements has led to a greater availability of effective electric heaters, while apps and smart technology now allow us to control our heating when we’re not even at home. Timers and LED screens give us almost complete control over when and for how long our spaces are heated, and a national green energy trend has transformed the energy sources we use.

Heating technology is now so sophisticated that many households benefit from products that can recognize consumer habits. For example, certain technologies can detect when the homeowner turns their central heating on and off and schedule it to supplement that usage, making heating the home even easier with little human intervention.

Of course, the way we heat our homes has changed drastically – but what can we expect for the future of home essentials?

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They take the winter chill out of our homes and warm us up until spring – we can’t live without our central heating! Can you imagine not being immediately relieved of the freezing cold? Centuries ago this was a reality!

The history of central heating is long. We’re not here to bore you, so we’ll just give you a quick history lesson. Welcome to Central Heating Systems 101 – sit back and enjoy!

13th Century

Did you know that the ancient Greeks developed the concept of central heating? Temples were heated by heat generated by fire and circulated through chimneys. The ancient Romans used a similar heating technique, which consisted of stoves that were used to heat air through the walls and under the floors, which eventually warmed an entire room. Unfortunately, after the collapse of the Roman Empire, people turned to fireplaces to provide heat, and innovative heating techniques were not used for another thousand years.

18th & 19th centuries

Central heating methods (convection, steam, and hot water) were not invented until the 1700s and 1800s.

It was not until 1793 that British engineer William Strutt designed a stove based on John Evelyn’s design almost a hundred years earlier. Strutt’s furnace design heated outside air through a passage built underground. In the early 1800s, Strutt teamed up with engineer Charles Sylvester to design a heating system for a hospital that would clean the air while heating the building.

The first steam central heating system was not invented until the 18th century. Scottish inventor James Watt built the first working central boiler system in his home. His invention involved high-pressure steam distributed through pipes. Watt’s central boiler system was later used in an industrial building in Manchester.

Hot water heaters were first used by the Russians in the early 17th century to heat Peter the Great’s palace. Other attempts were made by engineers in several other countries, but their concepts were mainly used to heat greenhouses. It was not until the 1830s that hot water heating systems developed rapidly and were adopted in churches and factories across England.

The radiator – a key element of modern central heating – was invented by Russian inventor Franz San Galli in the late 1850s and was adopted by most of Europe and the United States. In addition to providing hot water, radiators were able to distribute heat.

20th century

Due to the large amount of equipment, not all living rooms could be heated after the Second World War. It wasn’t until the 1950s that central heating was announced. These very first central heating systems generated heat in gas/oil boilers and used radiators to heat the home. At the end of the 20th century, electric heating was also introduced, paving the way for a much more comfortable and cheaper way of heating.

As you enjoy your home’s central heating this fall and winter, remember the story as it evolved. We should all be thankful that we have central heating in our homes – our ancestors weren’t so lucky!

With winter just around the corner, it’s best to have your stove serviced to ensure it’s running at its best and doing its job of keeping your family warm. To schedule an oven repair, contact our friendly team or call (913) 888-4470. To view our current special offers, click here.

Sources:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Central_heating

https://www.master.ca/en/articles/a-brief-history-of-heating-systems

It’s that classic “I don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone” moment. We get so used to having hot water and heating that we only really realize how important it is when it’s not there! Cold water, cold radiators – suddenly we realize how much we depend on warm water and an effective heating system.

Most households have their hot water and heating provided by their boiler. In today’s blog we are going to run through a scenario where the hot water comes through the taps but there is no central heating.

What could be the problem?

You will be happy to know that there are some solutions to this problem that do not require a professional.

If you have hot water but no heating, the first thing to check is that the thermostat is working properly.

Thermostats allow you to control the temperature of the room as well as the time you want the heating to turn on. Did the heating not come on at the expected time? Check if the settings are correct and if not change the timings.

If you can’t see a problem with the thermostat, check the boiler pressure – it may be too low.

Boiler pressure refers to the pressure of the hot water flowing through the heating system. If the boiler pressure drops too far, the central heating will not work.

Here, too, you can set the boiler pressure yourself. Every boiler is slightly different, so we won’t give you instructions here. The best thing to do is to look in your user manual. There is usually a key or valve that allows you to add more water to increase the pressure.

If you are not sure how to do this, consult a professional. All of our local heating installers are registered with Gas Safe and will be happy to help you get your heating back up and running.

What if it’s not the thermostat or boiler pressure?

This is where you will likely need to call in a heating engineer to diagnose the problem. If you have hot water but no central heating then there are other problems if it’s not the thermostat or boiler pressure.

Common reasons for this particular failure include broken diaphragms and airlocks, or a motorized valve failure. These problems require a professional heating technician to come and repair or replace the faulty part.

Do you have a combi boiler?

If you have a combi boiler, the problem could be a switching valve. Combination boilers supply your home with hot water and heating as required. The diverter valve directs the hot water to where it belongs – either to the hot water outlets like your taps or to the radiators.

If the valve is stuck, you either get central heating and no hot water, or vice versa.

Again, this type of fault requires a qualified Gas Safe heating technician to identify the fault and make a repair or replacement to get your central heating working again.

Here at Aura Gas, all of our specialist engineers are registered for Gas Safe. If you have problems with your boiler or central heating, do not hesitate to contact us. With our practical postcode checker you can see here whether we cover your area.

If you are one of our Care Plan customers, one visit is included in your monthly fee. If you are not yet a Care Plan customer, you can find more information here. Prices start from just £7.50 a month and include parts, labor and your annual boiler service.

The boiler is broken, there is no heating or hot water. Inevitably, this type of disaster doesn’t happen in the summer months, but usually in the winter months – probably just before Christmas or when you’re throwing a dinner party.

It’s a tenant’s worst nightmare – you pay a significant amount of your monthly income to a landlord each month for the use of a warm property with hot running water, but you get up one morning and the water heater doesn’t work. You pull out the manual, try to figure out what’s wrong, but the only conclusion you can draw is that there’s really nothing you can do to fix it yourself. Inevitably, this type of disaster doesn’t happen in the summer months, but usually in the winter months – probably just before Christmas or when you’re throwing a dinner party. But what are your rights in this situation and how can you ensure that everything works as quickly as possible with minimal disruption to your life?

First, remember that your lease gives you a right to heating and hot water and it is the landlord’s duty to maintain the boiler and make sure it works. It doesn’t matter what your landlord says, it’s their responsibility unless you’ve damaged the boiler in some way or haven’t looked after it the way you should. Keep in mind that no matter how quick the response is, there will be some level of interference when it comes to fixing these types of issues. So try to be patient especially if you are suffering from such issues during a particularly busy period.

On a practical level, your landlord – or their representative – should have some sort of service contract with whoever installed the boiler, so it should simply be a case of making an appointment with that service technician to come and look at the boiler and as soon as possible find a solution. The landlord or agent should make an appointment and be in touch with the tradesmen and keep you informed of what repairs are taking place and how long this is expected to take. Many will try to put that responsibility on the tenant and when it’s easier to contact the engineer yourself, sometimes that’s a good option, but setting up and paying for the repairs falls squarely on the shoulders of the owner or its representatives.

Of course, not all landlords are as efficient as most tenants would like, so it helps to know your schedules when it comes to restoring your heating and hot water supply. If you have a situation that qualifies as an emergency, repairs should be made the same day or as soon as possible. An emergency would be a total lack of water or total heating failure in cold weather. So losing heating and hot water in the summer isn’t quite as crucial as it is in the winter months. There are also certain situations where there may be more urgency for the landlord to act quickly to rectify the problem and if this is the case you should let them know. For example if you have young children and have nowhere else to go when temperatures drop below freezing or you are unwell.

We all know such situations as tenants – you are not alone! Check out the TTV guides for help and advice for more information or post a question on our forums and see if anyone else has gone through the same situation and may be able to help.

image source

Close all your windows properly. This includes ensuring storm windows are installed and closed, if any. Windows should be locked. Open them during the day when the outside temperature is higher than the inside temperature. Keep your windows airtight. You may want to purchase removable window seals or plastic to seal them better. Stuff at least one towel or shirt in front of any noticeable leaks. Use cheap sheer shower curtains over the windows that receive sunlight. This keeps the cold air out and the warmth of the sun heats your home without letting cold air in. You can also cover your windows with clear plastic sheeting and make them airtight. hang up curtains. A set of heavy curtains can block strong drafts. Open them when the sun is shining and close them when it’s not. Seal your doors. Check the door frame and also under the door. You might want to buy weatherstrips or a door sweep. At least make a draft excluder again or stuff a towel under the door. Let as much sun fall on your house as possible. Look for obstacles (e.g. plants, sheds) that could block the sun’s rays from reaching your home. Remove items leaning against walls on the sunny side of your home. (Ideally put it back at night for extra insulation). Lock unused rooms. The closed door makes this room another barrier between you and the cold outside. It also prevents the air from circulating as much, which reduces heat loss. Hardware stores sell magnetic register covers to “turn off” convection oven registers in unused spaces. This way only the coils in the rooms you use will pump out heat when the heating is turned on. This ensures more efficient use of the heater.

Make sure all heater registers are set open, especially where piping could freeze. Unblock cold air recirculation in heated rooms (they may be blocked by furniture or carpet) to allow heat to circulate efficiently. Lay out a rug or rug. Rugs and rugs help prevent heat loss through the floor. They are generally warmer to the touch than wood or stone and therefore provide a warmer surface to walk on. Add insulation in the attic and crawl space. A lot of heat escapes through the attic as warm air rises and cold air sinks. Make sure your attic is adequately insulated. Cook. Bake cookies or cakes. Your stove helps dry the air and heat the kitchen. The kitchen will be warm while you cook and then you can enjoy a great home cooked meal too!

Limit cooking that gives off steam, as this increases humidity and makes your home humid. Lowering the humidity in winter helps you feel warmer. Water vapor (moisture) has a greater heat capacity (ability to absorb heat) than dry air. As a result, humid air feels colder than dry air in winter, and it takes more heat to make humid air feel comfortable. Light a candle. A candle(s) can generate a lot of heat, just be careful where you place them and don’t leave them unattended. A visit to almost any grocery or discount store can provide you with a range of candles cheap! Use a candle warmer. It doesn’t produce as much heat as a fireplace or real heater, but produces heat very cheaply.

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If you live in poor housing and are having a hard time keeping warm during this brutal, cold winter, then read on for easy tips and tricks to stay warm in your home! If you want to read the full article for MORE tips, click here: http://www.wikihow.com/Stay-Warm-at-Home-Without-a-Heater

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Winter weather brings sloppy conditions, big cold snaps and lots of dry air. Each of these elements will put your home heating system to the test as you try to balance comfort and security with affordability. So what is an appropriate temperature for a house in winter? Read on to find out what to set your thermostat to and for some tips to help you make the best choice when the wind blows from the north.

Average house temperature in winter

A detailed study by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory found that winter residents preferred a heating setting between 67°F and 70°F (19°C to 21°C). The Department of Energy recommends a winter temperature of 20°C, which is very close to the temperatures most of us are comfortable with.

But ask 10 people what the best winter setting for their home thermostat is, and you might get 10 different answers. Let’s explore how to figure out which winter heating setting is best for you, and warning signs when something’s out of whack.

Excessive heating

Excessive heating (above 72°F or 22°C) will waste energy and leave you with sky-high electricity bills. Heating to higher temperatures also lowers the relative humidity (RH) in your home, causing everything from your skin to the wood on your floor to dry out. A quality, affordable home environmental system will help you maintain relative humidity within the recommended 30% to 60% range.

Conditions that are too dry also increase the risk of fire in your home, especially if you have a fireplace or other open flame source. In addition, dry mucous membranes in the nose or eyes make it easier for bacteria and viruses to enter your body. Not good!

High humidity

Although you want to avoid overheating your home and drying out the air around you, using a humidifier to alleviate the dryness problem comes with its own set of challenges. Humid air is more difficult to heat than dry air, so using a humidifier means you use more energy to keep your home warm. Excessive humidity (above 60% relative humidity) can lead to condensation on windows and mold growth in ducts, around windows, etc., which aggravates allergies. A built-in humidifier as part of your heating, ventilation and air conditioning system is the best choice.

What temperature is too cold for a house?

Although everyone has a different tolerance for cold, in general, ideal winter heat settings should be at or above 17°C. Excessive cold (anything below 62°F or 16°C) in your home can actually increase your blood pressure as your blood “thickens” in the cool temperatures. A cold house is more likely to be damp, leading to mold and mildew growth, and the mold can get into your air vents as well. These conditions can increase your aggravation from allergies. Elderly citizens are more prone to the cold so beware of turning the heating down too much as it is possible to become hypothermic right in your own home.

Keep your heating bills low

Now that you know what to set your thermostat to during the winter months, it’s time to check your home heating system. Keeping your home comfortable can be a challenge as cold weather systems sometimes bring about dramatic changes in temperature. You should pay special attention to your heating and air conditioning system to understand its capabilities and ensure it is working as efficiently as possible.

Goldilocks Syndrome

Ah! It can be so frustrating. Some rooms are too hot, some too cold and some are just right. Try to track down these villains:

The enemy can be an air leak in your ducts or around windows.

Try to leave doors to unused rooms partially open; Closing it restricts airflow and can create hot and cold spots in the home.

You can install “zone” units to balance heat by thermostatically controlling the opening and closing of room ducts at little cost.

Make sure your HVAC system is working efficiently

Do you regularly change your HVAC filter? If not, now is the best time to start. Poor filtration will result in dust build-up that not only reduces performance but is downright dangerous, especially on a gas system. The National Fire Protection Association reports about 6,000 fires are started by heating systems throughout the home each year; The two main causes are dirty or malfunctioning chimneys on gas stoves and poorly maintained appliances.

A unit can only heat the air so quickly; The colder it is, the longer it takes to heat up. Heat pumps are least efficient below 0°C (32°F); The secondary electric heating strips come into effect around this time and it will really add to your electric bills.

Your thermostat is important

What kind of thermostat do you have in your house? Each unit approaches the work in a different way; It is helpful to know how your device fits to optimize your heating settings. The more expensive options offer the best control over your heating.

Manual thermostat

This is the old controller from the 1950s. A small paddle or wheel moves a pointer to the desired temperature setting.

These units are simple, offline and low-maintenance, but do not allow automatic functions.

Dial types are analog and may be inaccurate; the digital versions are very inexpensive and much more accurate.

If you have a manual thermostat, we recommend using an environmental monitoring system like the AcuRite 5-Sensor Indoor Humidity and Temperature Smart Home Environment System with My AcuRite to get a better picture of the conditions in your home.

Programmable thermostat

Programmable electronic thermostats have been around for decades, and homeowners can use these devices to create a series of “events” throughout the day to vary the temperature of their home. For example, the heating can be programmed to turn down to 60 degrees at 11:00 p.m. and heat it up again to 65 degrees in the morning after waking up. These units are not compatible with mobile apps.

Smart thermostats

With smart thermostats, you can control the home’s HVAC system from anywhere in the world using your mobile phone. Like the first generation systems, the units can also be programmed to vary their heating and cooling via a digital timer. The smart systems offer the most flexibility for air conditioning your home, as they can also measure relative humidity and control a humidifier, but they’re also the most expensive of the bunch.

Smart thermostats can save you up to $180/year on heating/cooling costs, but only when used correctly, so it’s important to take a little time to program. Sometimes you want to override the automatic settings, and every smart thermostat allows for a manual mode as well.

Home is where the heating is…

Finding the ideal winter temperature for your home is not as difficult as it might seem. You should first make sure your heater is in good condition, has a clean filter, and has ducts and doors to unused spaces open. Then set your thermostat in the upper 60’s and experiment with what’s most comfortable. Consider using a humidifier if you find it too dry, or turn down the heat to make it cooler. You should definitely lower the thermostat setting at night to save money and sleep better.

How do you efficiently heat your home in winter? Sound off with your tips in the comments below!

Continue reading

Close all your windows properly. This includes ensuring storm windows are installed and closed, if any. Windows should be locked. Open them during the day when the outside temperature is higher than the inside temperature. Keep your windows airtight. You may want to purchase removable window seals or plastic to seal them better. Stuff at least one towel or shirt in front of any noticeable leaks. Use cheap sheer shower curtains over the windows that receive sunlight. This keeps the cold air out and the warmth of the sun heats your home without letting cold air in. You can also cover your windows with clear plastic sheeting and make them airtight. hang up curtains. A set of heavy curtains can block strong drafts. Open them when the sun is shining and close them when it’s not. Seal your doors. Check the door frame and also under the door. You might want to buy weatherstrips or a door sweep. At least make a draft excluder again or stuff a towel under the door. Let as much sun fall on your house as possible. Look for obstacles (e.g. plants, sheds) that could block the sun’s rays from reaching your home. Remove items leaning against walls on the sunny side of your home. (Ideally put it back at night for extra insulation). Lock unused rooms. The closed door makes this room another barrier between you and the cold outside. It also prevents the air from circulating as much, which reduces heat loss. Hardware stores sell magnetic register covers to “turn off” convection oven registers in unused spaces. This way only the coils in the rooms you use will pump out heat when the heating is turned on. This ensures more efficient use of the heater.

Make sure all heater registers are set open, especially where piping could freeze. Unblock cold air recirculation in heated rooms (they may be blocked by furniture or carpet) to allow heat to circulate efficiently. Lay out a rug or rug. Rugs and rugs help prevent heat loss through the floor. They are generally warmer to the touch than wood or stone and therefore provide a warmer surface to walk on. Add insulation in the attic and crawl space. A lot of heat escapes through the attic as warm air rises and cold air sinks. Make sure your attic is adequately insulated. Cook. Bake cookies or cakes. Your stove helps dry the air and heat the kitchen. The kitchen will be warm while you cook and then you can enjoy a great home cooked meal too!

Limit cooking that gives off steam, as this increases humidity and makes your home humid. Lowering the humidity in winter helps you feel warmer. Water vapor (moisture) has a greater heat capacity (ability to absorb heat) than dry air. As a result, humid air feels colder than dry air in winter, and it takes more heat to make humid air feel comfortable. Light a candle. A candle(s) can generate a lot of heat, just be careful where you place them and don’t leave them unattended. A visit to almost any grocery or discount store can provide you with a range of candles cheap! Use a candle warmer. It doesn’t produce as much heat as a fireplace or real heater, but produces heat very cheaply.

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If you live in poor housing and are having a hard time keeping warm during this brutal, cold winter, then read on for easy tips and tricks to stay warm in your home! If you want to read the full article for MORE tips, click here: http://www.wikihow.com/Stay-Warm-at-Home-Without-a-Heater

So your boiler is broken, you called a plumber and it’s time to sit down and wait for him to ride to the rescue. It can be a challenge to keep warm while waiting for your heating to work again.

Without radiators to heat your home, you’ll have to get creative and use other methods to safely stay warm. The good news is that there are many little things you can do to stave off the cold and keep the temperature high, even with a busted water heater. You’ll most likely do some of these without thinking, but we’ve rounded up the top tips as a reminder for when you find yourself without a boiler!

Here are our 6 tips to stay warm when your boiler is broken:

add levels

First things first, be sure to add some extra layers of clothing. You want to give yourself the best chance of staying warm, and a few extra layers can do wonders.

Each additional layer protects you from the cold and prevents your body heat from escaping. As there is no central heating to keep you warm you will need this insulation to make the most of the heat available.

Go all out with coats, hats and gloves for best results. Even pull that old blanket out of the closet, every layer helps!

Close your curtains

It’s likely that most of the heat loss from your home is through your windows. You need to try to minimize this if you want to stay warm without central heating and closing the curtains can be a big help.

Keeping your curtains closed, especially at night, can help prevent heat from escaping through your windows and retain heat in a room. However, blinds don’t have the same effect, so there’s no substitute for a good, thick pair of curtains.

If it looks sunny during the day, you might want to open the curtains and let the light in. A little sun can also help in the winter months, keeping your home warmer (and sometimes just a bit of light) throughout the day. makes you warmer and happier!).

Close the doors

It is much easier to heat one room effectively than trying to heat your whole house. Being careful to keep doors closed can help retain heat in a room rather than letting it fade into the rest of your home.

Focusing on only heating the spaces you need, when you need them, is far more efficient than trying to heat everywhere. You also heat up rooms much faster with the doors closed.

You can also use draft excluders or place towels at the bottom of your doors to further retain heat and prevent heat from escaping through the cracks. Little things like this can help keep your room a little warmer, for longer.

Eat hot food

There’s nothing like a warm, hearty meal in the dead of winter. Even more so if your boiler is broken.

Warming up with food is a great way to stay warm while you’re waiting for a heating installer. Your oven and hob should still work, so use them to cook up a hearty meal and keep warm.

A cup of tea, coffee or hot chocolate is also a very useful idea to keep your hands warm even with gloves. So you can feel all the more comfortable while waiting for an emergency installer.

Use electric heaters

Once you’ve done everything you can to conserve heat, it’s time to find an alternative heating source that can heat your home while you wait for your heater to come back on line.

Using something like an electric heater can be expensive but effective. Make sure your doors are closed, windows are covered and you’re wrapped up before turning on the heat. This minimizes costs and helps your room warm up faster. Only heat the rooms you need while you use them and don’t leave the heaters on overnight.

If you have another alternative heating source such as a wood stove or aga, use that as well to keep your house as warm as possible.

boil water

While you may not get hot water from your central heating, you can still boil it in a pan or kettle. Use water from your kettle to fill hot water bottles, wash and take a bath. Just be sure to mix with some cold water beforehand so your water isn’t too hot.

Like using electric heaters, boiling water this way isn’t particularly energy efficient, but it’s only a short-term fix and will certainly keep you warm.

in summary

It can be difficult to stay warm while waiting for emergency boiler repairs, especially in the middle of winter. By following these 6 tips, you’ll stay as warm and comfortable as possible until your boiler is working again.

As long as you’re piling up the layers, retaining as much heat as possible, and preparing hearty food, you’ll be ready to weather the cold.

It’s also worth noting that not having a boiler can be a health hazard for some people if you’re struggling to deal with colder conditions. In this case, you need to make your personal situation clear to your engineer or installer so that they can work with you to get your central heating up and running as quickly as possible.

If you want to know more about what to do if your boiler fails, read our guide.

At Plumbcare.com, we are available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year to take your call and aim to be with you within 60 minutes of your boiler emergency. If your boiler is broken and in need of urgent repairs, simply contact our friendly customer service team on 0333 577 0151.

Good to know Reverse air conditioning is the cheapest way to heat your home, but the most expensive upfront

Portable electric heaters are cheap to buy but have high running costs

Shop smart and hack your heating to keep your utility bills down this winter

What is cheapest in the short term and what is cheapest in the long term are two very different things when it comes to heating your home.

If you are lucky enough to own your own home and have the money for reverse cycle air conditioning, then this is by far the cheapest way to keep your home warm.

If you’re a renter or just don’t have a few thousand in your bank account, then an electric heater is probably your best option. Unfortunately, you’ll have to suck it dry and pay more per year for heating bills.

But there are ways to ensure you don’t pay more than you have to. We’ll walk you through how to choose the best heating and how to hack your home to keep your heating bill from skyrocketing.

Looking for electric heaters? We tested to find the best for you. See electric heaters review

From the cheapest to the most expensive

air conditioning

Based on running costs alone, reverse cycle air conditioning is by far the cheapest way to heat your home: our estimates show that a year-round reverse cycle air conditioner costs little more than an electric heater running just three months through the winter.

But (and this is a big but) the initial cost of air conditioning is much, much higher. You also need to consider installation time before you can bask in the warmth of your air conditioner.

“On average, you can expect to pay about $2000 for a new split air conditioner, but prices range from $600 to $5500,” says Chris Barnes, heating expert at CHOICE.

“The installation will cost at least a few hundred dollars more. And for a ducted reverse cycle air conditioner, expect to pay at least $5,000 including installation.

A reverse cycle air conditioner costs little more than an electric heater all year round if it only runs for three months over the winter

“For a typical freestanding home, the cost can easily reach $10,000 or more, depending on the size and type of system you choose. Expect to pay $15,000 or more for a large or multi-story home.”

But an added benefit of reverse air conditioning is that it keeps you cool even during the warmer months – something an electric heater definitely cannot!

Accessible text-only version

Reverse Cycle Air Conditioner Benefits: Save Money: Energy efficient and can reduce your energy bills compared to electric heaters. Heats and cools: With two heating and cooling functions, you can use it all year round. Ideal for large open spaces: Perfect for open-plan living. Bonus features: fan settings, sensors, and the ability to zone the house. Can hold the whole family comfortably. Cons: High upfront cost: Purchase and installation costs range from $2000 to $15,000. Time-consuming installation process Permanent: Not suitable for renters. Read more at www.choice.com.au.

Looking for gas heaters? We tested to find the best for you. See gas heaters review

gas heating

A gas heater is (at least for now) the next cheapest option for heating your home. But gas heaters aren’t for everyone – you must already have gas connected or set up an LPG system for your heater.

They cannot be installed in bedrooms and tight spaces like bathrooms, and some require a vent to ventilate the home.

And they’re not cheap to buy either: They’re looking for somewhere between $500 and $1400. And then they need regular maintenance, which increases costs.

Gas heaters come with some potential health and safety hazards and are also a non-renewable resource

Gas prices are also rising, so while it’s now a relatively inexpensive way to heat your home, you may end up paying more than you would for electric heaters such as air conditioners and portable electric heaters.

Gas heaters come with some potential health and safety hazards and are also a non-renewable resource. We explain the advantages and disadvantages in our gas heating purchase advice.

Portable electric heater

It’s a win for the portable electric heater in terms of convenience and upfront cost. With no installation required, wide availability, and prices starting from around $30, they’re definitely a quick and easy fix when the cold snap hits.

Portable electric heaters are ideal for small spaces with short periods of use. They’re also a great option for Strata apartment renters or owners who may not be able to install air conditioning.

Of all types of electric heaters, oil column heaters are the cheapest to run – but by a very small margin. They also take longer to warm up.

Portable electric heaters are a great option for Strata apartment renters or owners who may not be able to install air conditioning

But portable electric heaters aren’t nearly as energy efficient as a split air conditioner and can get expensive. You’ll likely see your energy bills increase, especially if you run multiple heaters in different rooms.

In fact, on average, a portable electric heater can cost nearly three times as much to run as a reverse cycle air conditioner (based on heating six hours a day for 12 weeks in a temperate winter).

Accessible text-only version

Should You Buy an Electric Heater? Pros: Low initial cost: Prices start at $30. No Installation: Electric heaters require no installation other than plugging in. IDEAL FOR SMALL SPACES: Perfect for bedrooms. Great for Renters: Easily portable and requiring no installation, they’re a great option for renters. Readily Available: Can be found at most home and living stores. Disadvantages: Expensive to run: With poor energy efficiency, electric heaters can greatly increase your energy costs. Only suitable for warming one or two people. Not suitable for large living areas. Read more at choice.com.au.

How much do different heaters cost in operation?

Of course, every home is different and your heating needs will depend on the climate, room size, insulation and many other factors, but by putting some numbers together we can give you an idea of ​​the price differences between each type of heater.

Here is a comparison of different heating options for a small room:

Mitsubishi Heavy Industries SRK25ZSXA-W reverse cycle air conditioner

Upfront cost: $1500 (plus installation)

Running costs over the winter: $163

Rinnai Dynamo 15 Portable Gas Heater

Upfront cost: $1099

Running costs over the winter: $237.50*

DeLonghi HCX3320FTS electric convection heater

Upfront cost: $359

Running costs over winter: $296*

*Based on 500 hours of operation: 6 hours per day for 3 months, with a peak price of 30 cents/kWh

An electric heater will cost you less, at least in the first year – but more in the long term.

Since many people live month-to-month (and even week-to-week), a cheaper electric heater with slightly higher running costs may be a more viable option than spending thousands of dollars on air conditioning.

An electric heater will cost you less, at least in the first year – but more in the long term

However, keep in mind that your electricity bill will increase, especially if you run multiple heaters in different rooms. And with many of us now working from home, chances are you’ve been keeping your heating on longer each day.

“The more you use your heater, the more important it becomes to make sure the heater is the most efficient type you can get and that you’re using it as effectively as possible,” says Barnes.

Read more: 10 Heating Mistakes That Are Costing You Money

Looking for Air Conditioners? We tested to find the best for you. See air conditioner test

Choose wise

So if you have to buy an electric heater, how can you keep those utility bills as low as possible and still stay warm? You don’t necessarily have to buy a top-of-the-line electric heater.

“Price price isn’t always an indicator of better performance or lower running costs,” says Barnes.

“Of the electric heaters we’ve recommended in the past, some have cost less than $100 and others more than $400, but their winter running costs are usually similar at around $300 – and we do have found other models with similar prices and operating conditions cost but fare much worse.”

Some recommended electric heaters have cost less than $100 and others more than $400, but their winter running costs are usually similar

However, a cheap purchase price and low running costs don’t mean much if your heating isn’t working – a lower electricity bill in three months’ time is cold comfort when you’re freezing. Therefore, finding an electric heater that works well is important if you want to stay warm in the winter.

“Purchase price and running costs are important, but it’s also important that the heater distributes the heat well throughout the room,” says Barnes.

SELECTION TIP: Our electric heater reviews let you filter by brand, price, running costs, design and features – so you can find a heater that is best suited to your situation.

Read more: 7 things you should never do with an electric heater

Hack your heater

There is more to reducing your heating costs than just buying an efficient heating system and using it sensibly. And high electric bills can be a sign that you need to make some changes to the way you heat your home.

“If you have to run an electric heater all day every day to stay warm, that’s a sign your home really isn’t thermally efficient,” says Barnes.

Try these tips to hack your home and ensure you get the most out of your heating this winter. You’ll find that many of these methods are also better for the environment than plugging in a device.

1. Insulation

While throwing on an extra sweater is an easy way to warm up, a well-insulated home makes the biggest difference in keeping your house warm.

You can lose up to 35% of your home’s heat if it’s not insulated, which means you can rack up the biggest electricity bill ever but still be freezing all winter. The insulation also keeps your home cooler in the summer, so it’s a worthwhile investment.

Of course, if you’re renting or can’t afford insulation, you’ll need to look at other options to keep warm – check out our 6 handy DIY tricks to stay warm this winter.

Things like blocking drafts, covering floors with rugs, and using curtains can all help keep the heat in and the cold out.

2. Use your ceiling fan on the back

You can use a ceiling fan to hack your heating. Modern ceiling fans have a reversing switch that rotates the blades clockwise. As hot air rises, this pushes the warm air back down towards the ground.

It is also important to ensure that the heat from your heater can circulate around the room. As tempting as it may be, that means not sitting on the heater. And if you dry laundry indoors, remove them from the flow of hot air – it warms the room more effectively.

3. Take advantage of the sun

While solar panels are also a sizable investment, they can help reduce your heating bills.

“For a home with its own solar panel system, running an electric heater or air conditioner during the day can be significantly cheaper than running a gas heater,” says Barnes.

Find out more with our solar panel buying guide.

4. Buy during the sales period

If you haven’t bought a heater yet, you can try to last until the end of the financial sale (or buy a more efficient model to replace your existing heater). With the end of the fiscal year coinciding with the onset of winter, it’s no surprise that electric heaters are CHOICE’s most wanted product during this sale period.

But try not to get caught up in the sales spree — and be sure to avoid those electric heaters that we recommend you avoid buying.

If you’re thinking about air conditioning, don’t wait until it’s freezing cold or steaming hot to get an air conditioner fitted — shop in the off-season.

“If you want to install air conditioning for your winter heating, do it well in advance of the main cold season. Don’t wait for the installers to get busy. That way you can get a bargain in the off-season.” Barnes says.

Looking for ceiling fans? We tested to find the best for you. See ceiling fans review

Stock images: Getty unless otherwise noted.