Outdoor Aviary With Shelter? Top 99 Best Answers

Spring is here! Now that it’s finally getting warmer, it’s time to get out into the aviary and prepare everything for the coming breeding season. In this post we look at 8 maintenance tasks you need to tackle to keep your herd in top breeding condition.

1. Replace or clean the perches

Perches are an important vector for the transmission of parasites and diseases in the aviary. Some birds poop on it, and then other birds chew on it or use it to wipe their beak. It’s a recipe for disaster.

If you’re using natural perches, spring is the perfect time to toss the old ones in the green waste bin and get new ones from a nearby tree. If you keep the old ones, just give them a deep clean to remove parasites. Commercial perch cleaning products are available, but some warm water and dish soap will do just as well.

2. Prevent worms and parasites

Parasites such as mites, lice and worms multiply most in spring. The moist soil and warming weather give them the best opportunity to establish themselves in your aviary all year round.

There is a lot of debate among bird keepers about how often to deworm and what products to use. I recommend deworming four times a year (depending on the season) with 5 ml/litre of Moxidectin Plus.

3. Clean the aviary substrate

Bird droppings, discarded food, and old nesting material can accumulate on the aviary floor during winter. The rain and humidity can create a fertile breeding ground for bacteria, parasites, fungus, and a host of other undesirable things—especially as the weather warms up.

At the beginning of spring I scrape the floor of the aviary completely clean and put a thin layer of sand on top of the concrete. A quarter ton of paving sand from the local garden supply store is only about $15 and will cover my 240 square foot aviary with fresh sand half a dozen times.

4. Form breeding pairs

The overwhelming majority of aviary birds will begin breeding within the next few months. If you haven’t already, now is your last chance to mate birds you plan to breed in the spring.

Now is the time to procure replacements for any birds lost over the winter, remove old or sick birds from the breeding aviaries, and mate last season’s best youngsters. Some birds take a long time to accept a new mate, so it’s important to do so as early as possible.

5. Apply insecticides

Insects – especially ants – can cause many problems in an aviary. They can spread disease and parasites, spoil food supplies (especially Lorikeet food), and kill chicks in the nest.

Now that the weather is becoming less wet and humid, insecticide residues are once again taking effect. It’s a good time to spray the aviary floor and nesting areas with a product like Coopex that kills insects that come in contact with it for several weeks but has no effect on birds. Just keep it away from food and water.

6. Plant greens and grasses

Spring is the best time of year to get the vegetable patch going and produce birdseed. Silver beet, kale, endive, Lebanese cucumber, and almost any seed grass can be planted at this time of year, and many will be ready to harvest during the peak breeding season in October.

Any high quality seed mix planted in garden beds or pots should provide you with a steady supply of green seed heads. I have found that mixes of Red Pannicum and Small Parrots produce the best seed heads for our Finches and Neophemas. If you have a greenhouse, you can speed up the speed at which you can sow leafy greens and grass.

7. Clean nests

Some people remove nests from aviaries to discourage winter breeding during the cooler months, when the birds are weaker and more prone to egg-binding. If this is you, they should be placed back in the aviary now so the birds can begin nest building.

If, like me, you keep the nests in the aviary all year round, now is the perfect time to give them a thorough cleaning. Remove old and dirty nesting material, clean droppings from exterior surfaces, and spray with a bird-safe insecticide.

8. Provide fresh nesting material

If you keep birds that prefer to build their own nests, now is the time to offer new nesting material. Anything left on the damp aviary floor over the winter should be discarded and fresh material provided.

For finches, provide fine dried grass (my favorite is marsh grass) and emu feathers. For small parrots like lovebirds, you can’t go wrong with a little straw and palm fronds.

In addition to garden houses, aviaries are an excellent addition to the garden. If you have a variety of bird species and treat them as pets, consider their freedom. By that we meant allowing them to stretch their wings once in a while.

An outdoor aviary not only provides the leisure time, but also the protection your feathered friends need. Access to sunlight is also beneficial to them, from their skin to the health of their feathers.

So are you thinking of building one in your backyard? That’s great! But some planning is necessary, so we’re here to help.

The central theses:

For people who have pet birds, investing in aviaries is an important consideration.

Next is the species, size and number of birds. All of this contributes to how successful and beneficial the outcome could be for them.

Sure, building an outdoor aviary can be easy. However, a guide like this is crucial, especially if you want to avoid pitfalls in the future.

Outdoor bird aviary explained

A small cage would suffice if you only have one or two parrots, for example. But if you have a lot of feathered friends or extra large birds, think bigger.

Birds should be out in nature at least sometimes, so keeping them cooped up at home can be brutal. This is where an outdoor bird aviary comes into play.

It serves as an ideal sanctuary, giving them enough space to spread their wings and fly. And most importantly, all without leaving your home.

Now you might be thinking about protection against the harsh weather. what if it rains Do the birds get soaking wet in the outdoor aviary?

And what about those scorching hot days? Does your so-called “haven” offer the necessary protection from the sun?

These concerns can be easily alleviated when you know exactly what it takes to build an aviary that is safe and suitable for any species of bird. That’s what this guide is about!

We have listed the important steps not to be missed when building an outdoor bird aviary. From determining the best size to positioning your birdcage in the best spot, we’ve got you covered!

Building an outdoor bird aviary

An outdoor aviary means a healthier environment for your birds. This is because they get more fresh air and sunlight.

And if you use your yard, chances are you have more space and can build a larger size, which is better for your birds too. Without further ado, let’s get into the list!

1. Determine the size of the aviary and the birds

To get the most out of your birdhouse, give your feathered friends as much space as you can afford. Start by measuring the usable space you can offer.

So you can determine how big your outdoor aviary can be. A large aviary means you give your birds the freedom to fly around and enjoy themselves.

The overall size of the aviary usually depends on the species. Suppose you have large parrots. They require a much larger flight case compared to finches and budgies which can live in a normal sized bird cage.

Here is a chart of aviary sizes, courtesy of Here Bird.

Little Birds: Width: 20″, Depth: 24″, Height: 24″

Width: 20″, Depth: 24″, Height: 24″ Medium Birds: Width: 25″, Depth: 32″, Height: 35″

: Width: 25″, Depth: 32″, Height: 35″ Large Birds: Width: 35″, Depth: 40″, Height: 50″

Width: 35″, Depth: 40″, Height: 50″ Extra Large Birds: Width: 40″, Depth: 50″, Height: 60″

2. Look for the ideal location

When it comes to positioning your aviary, it is best to place it within sight of your home. So you can watch the birds from the comfort of your home or garden while you work or relax.

Positioning in your garden also means birds can be closely associated with their natural habitat. However, we do not recommend placing them under a tree as this will limit their source of sunlight.

Trees also provide easy access for predators such as rats and cats. You can get to the top of the cage and attack the birds.

Top tip: Place the aviary away from noisy mechanical equipment such as vents or air conditioners to avoid bird discomfort.

3. Consider positioning

Birds are sensitive to wind, cold, and cold and heat stress. In addition to planning the site, it is also important to consider the prevailing winds and the intensity of the sun’s rays.

You must provide the birds with a sheltered area from the sun, rain and wind. Depending on the current wind direction, at least one third to half of the cage should have a roof covering that wraps around one or two sides so that the cage is sufficiently secure.

And if you live in an area where temperatures can rise, make sure the aviary is not placed in an area that gets excessively hot. The best positioning is in the south where your birds will get the morning sun.

4. Choose an aviary design

Do you think that a portable aviary best suits your needs? Or are you thinking about building a walk-in or an open birdcage?

You also need to think about the specific design requirements of the species. For example hanging bathtubs for lories and adding a water feature for birds to drink from.

The design requirements (if any) should fit within the aviary design you have decided on.

5. Set the right foundation

An outdoor aviary needs a stable foundation. Without them, the weather erodes the base and soil beneath the structure, making the building unstable.

This can also allow birds to play in the dirt and pick up parasites. Therefore, when building a birdhouse, choose the right materials for the foundation.

There are two main types of foundations that are ideal for outdoor aviaries and these are:

Soft aviary base. With this type of foundation, a wire mesh is needed at the bottom to prevent predators from digging into the aviary. Place gravel on the mesh floor of the aviary to allow water to drain right through and into the floor.

A soft aviary foundation is easier to set up and move to another location should you decide to change the location of your aviary.

Hard aviary foundation. This type of foundation uses materials such as concrete, flat brick, or pavers. Because these materials are hard, they help protect the aviary from predators. Therefore, no chicken wire installation is required.

If you are planning to build a large aviary, a concrete foundation is recommended. It offers a much stronger, more durable and stable base than the soft version.

6. Materials for the panel frames

Should you use wood or metal for the aviary cladding? This depends on your budget and needs.

A metal frame is stronger, more durable and won’t be chewed by your birds. But it’s on the expensive side; Not to mention it’s more difficult to cut and machine (unless you have a metal cutting tool).

It may also require additional rust protection. Again, if you have the means and can provide TLC, this material is your best bet.

A wooden frame, on the other hand, is much cheaper and easier to cut. But unlike metal, it doesn’t last long and could be nibbled on by your wild birds.

In addition, it must be treated to prevent rot. With proper care and maintenance, you can stick with this type of material.

7. Door construction

For an extra layer of security, experts recommend installing 2 sets of doors with a small passage in between. This will prevent birds from flying out when the door is opened.

The door should also have a set of hinges to allow it to swing open. A padlock and door latch would also be helpful as some intelligent predators like raccoons can pick regular door latches.

But if you have a small aviary and can only fit one door, be sure to create a self-closing door. Do this by attaching a spring to the sides of the top of the door.

Or you might consider building a door that is half the size. Birds tend to fly up; With this design, they have less chance of escaping.

Top tip: Birds don’t like to fly into hanging objects. Attach beads or cords or alternatively a mesh door cover to the side of the door.

8. Putting the roof

It is important that your aviary has a roof that provides shade for the birds on hot days. A piece of waterproof cloth on one or two sides of the aviary also works wonders.

And if you don’t like the idea of ​​predators sitting on the roof and disturbing your birds, make the roof angle steeper. An angled roof also drains the water, so a win-win situation!

9. Additional Considerations

In aviary construction, temperature control is often overlooked in both hot and cold climates. But not anymore!

Make sure you give your birds extra shelter during local weather extremes. These include snow, wind and extreme heat.

Also consider the overall strength and endurance of your birdhouse to withstand such weather extremes.

Summarize

A safe and strong building structure is essential for an outdoor aviary. We hope these considerations will help you build the perfect garden aviary that you and your birds will enjoy!

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frequently asked Questions

While most bird species migrate to warmer areas for the winter, certain birds stay in the same area over the winter. And this despite the fact that the cold offers them unideal living conditions. Because of this, many bird watchers are wondering: do birds get cold? And if so, how do they stay warm?

The short answer to the question is yes, birds get cold. However, as always, they have found strategic ways to protect themselves and survive no matter how freezing the temperatures.

In this article, we will discuss how birds stay warm in winter. In particular, we will examine birds’ physical adaptations and their behavioral adaptations, including:

Fluff, tuck, bask, tremble, rest, freeze

We also share how you can help birds stay warm, where they roost in winter, and what types of birds you can find in winter. We will also answer some frequently asked questions. So if you’re curious about how birds stay warm in winter, read on…

How birds stay warm in winter

Like us, birds are warm-blooded animals with a much higher metabolism and body temperature than we do. And just like ours, their body temperature can fluctuate depending on several factors. And when the temperature drops that low, it can be difficult to maintain body heat.

Unlike us, birds cannot wear coats, hats, or gloves to protect themselves in cold weather. But they are smart and have developed several adaptive strategies.

In this section of the article, we divide their adaptation into two, physical adaptations and behavioral adaptations to survive in winter.

Physical Adjustments

Let’s start with the physical adjustments.

First of all, birds have weapons on their bodies that protect them from the cold. These are their feathers, legs and feet and fats.

Bird feathers provide them with excellent insulation against the cold weather. In fact, many species of birds are so dependent on their feathers that they grow extra feathers to provide extra insulation for the winter.

We also know that birds groom their feathers, and it turns out this is as much for preparing for winter as it is for flying. The natural oil from their urinary glands that coats their feathers is said to provide extra insulation to protect the birds during winter.

Aside from the feathers, a bird’s legs and feet are also covered in special scales that trap most of their heat inside their bodies. Additionally, birds have found a way to regulate the temperature of their legs and feet separately from their bodies. This is how they protect their feet from frostbite.

After all, birds would fatten up before winter and just eat lots of food. The purpose is to give their bodies more fat stores to ensure they have extra energy to generate more heat.

behavioral adjustments

Aside from the physical adaptations, birds have also found a way to adapt to the cold through some behavioral changes.

fluff

The first thing you notice about birds visiting your feathers is that they look cute and fluffy. The birds actually go through what we call “fluffing”. Birds fluff up their feathers to provide extra insulation.

Plug in

Aside from the fluff, you might also see some species of birds sticking their heads to their bodies.

You know how sometimes when you’re too cold you start rubbing your palms together and blowing some air into them before you put them against your body? It is like it is.

Birds tuck their beaks into their shoulder feathers and then exhale some air to warm their bodies.

Another way they perform this action is by tucking their legs and feet into their body. This helps them protect their feet from frostbite in freezing temperatures.

to sunbathe

Winter is cold but there are days when the sun shines. And when those days come, birds are quick to take advantage of that heat from the sun.

They find an open space and expose themselves to the sun. They usually turn their backs to it because it’s most of their body, and then they raise their feathers. That way the sun would hit most parts of their body and give them enough heat.

Sometimes they even spread their tails and wings to cover more surface area and heat them up faster.

Tremble

Another common way birds stay warm is by shivering. Normally, when you are already cold, our body’s most common reaction is to shiver. It’s like a way to produce more body heat quickly.

For birds, shivering is something they do consciously and not just as a simple bodily reaction to cold. They actually force themselves to shake to increase their metabolic rate and increase their body temperature rapidly. And because doing so can lose some calories, they only do so in extremely cold temperatures, when their body heat gets too low.

sleeping place

Many bird species help each other to warm up. Small birds tend to gather in large flocks at night, occupying a very small space to share body heat. It’s like people hugging, but with birds they just group together.

Birds such as thrushes, wrens, tits, sparrows and kinglets would gather in shrubs, pine bushes, bird feeders or on branches to huddle together and keep warm.

solidification

Probably the most common way birds adapt to the cold winter season is through torpor. It’s like hibernation to save energy on cold winter nights.

When birds freeze, they lower their body temperatures and slow their metabolic rates to conserve more energy. This usually happens when the food source is very low and the birds cannot risk consuming any more calories.

Birds in this condition can face great potential danger. Birds can be very weak during torpor, which means reactions to predator attacks can also be slower.

When birds come out of the freeze, they usually shiver to raise their body temperature quickly. And when they do, they need to find food immediately since they’ve used up a majority of their calories.

dig

This action is not common in most birds, but is common in some bird species. Birds like snow buntings and birch tusks would burrow into the snow to create some burrows that act as insulation from the cold weather.

Here’s how you can help birds keep warm

Although birds have found effective ways to keep warm for the winter, surviving can still be difficult. Most of the birds still die in winter, and when the cold is severe, the bird mortality rate becomes so high.

Because of this, it’s very important that you still help them stay warm by providing food, water, and shelter.

Offer birds foods that are high in fat and calories to help them conserve energy. We highly recommend giving them peanut butter, suet, nuts, and high-fat seeds. In addition, you need to make sure that the feeders are always filled with seeds, no matter how cold it is outside.

During these times, birds need as much food as possible. And if you continue to care for them, they will become more familiar with your feeding stations and they will visit them whenever they need to replenish lost energy.

In addition to food, provide water for the birds. It is highly recommended to use a heated bird bath to keep the water liquid even in extreme cold. Because while snow can be used by birds as water, melting that snow can cause birds to lose what little energy they have left.

The most important thing is to provide shelter for the birds. Plant shrubs or trees and build bush mounds or bird feeders to provide winter shelter for the birds. You can also place these shelters near windbreaks to better protect birds from the cold.

FAQs on how birds stay warm in winter

What temperature is too cold for birds?

Birds generally tolerate temperatures of up to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. However, below that, especially below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, it gets so cold that the birds start fluffing or do whatever it takes to stay warm.

How do birds not freeze in winter?

As mentioned above, birds have evolved coping strategies to survive the coldest of temperatures.

Their feathers are well insulated, their feet are scaled to prevent frostbite, they store fat stores for extra insulation before winter, and they have evolved behaviors to help them stay warm, including:

fluff

Plug in

to sunbathe

Tremble

sleeping place

solidification

dig

These birds are also very dependent on you providing them with more food, water and shelter in order for them to survive.

Do birds use birdhouses in winter?

Yes, birds use bird feeders in winter.

Because many bird species choose not to migrate to warmer areas, abandoned birds consider these birdhouses as shelters. It is one of the favorite places for many birds to huddle as the space is small, making their bodies more compact and retaining their heat well.

Should you feed birds in winter?

Yes, you should feed birds in winter.

As mentioned above, birds need as much energy as possible and they can get this mainly from fats and proteins in their diet. Because food sources are scarce in winter and the temperature is too cold, birds have a harder time finding food.

However, if you always give them something to eat, the chances of them surviving become greater. This is because they become more familiar with your space. They become aware that there is food, which means they can come back to you whenever they need to replenish their energy.

So fill your birdhouses with high-fat or high-protein seeds. You can also serve peanut butter and suet to give them more energy.

Do birds eat snow for water in winter?

Yes, they eat snow for water in winter. But only if there are no water sources nearby. Because while birds can turn snow into water for drinking, it takes a lot of energy for them to heat the snow before drinking it. And this action can be extremely dangerous for birds.

So it’s best to provide them with fresh water via a heated birdbath in winter, although they can eat snow as a water source in winter. This way the water doesn’t freeze and you can offer the birds fresh, warm water every time.

Where do birds sleep in winter?

Birds have the incredible ability to find warm spots in winter. They sleep in gaps between bark and tree trunks, natural cavities, hedges, dense vegetation, eaves and other tight spaces that don’t get too much cold wind exposure.

Which birds can I watch in my garden in winter?

Some of the most common birds you will find in your garden in winter include:

finches

sparrows

tits

gold finch

woodpeckers

tit

cardinals

And much more!

How Do Birds Stay Warm In Winter – Final Thoughts

Winter is one of the main causes of the high mortality rate of birds. Because birds usually have to fight hard to survive.

It is just as well that birds have learned to adapt to this type of situation, that they have learned several strategic methods of adaptation, such as:

fluff their feathers

Put your feet in

to sunbathe

Tremble

Cuddle together

solidification

dig

But despite all these strategic measures, there are still sometimes birds that die in extreme temperatures. For this reason, as a bird watcher, you should help ensure that birds have enough energy to do all of the above.

Provide birds with good food, water and, most importantly, make sure there is enough shelter in your yard. In other words, prepare your yard to be a great winter shelter for birds.

That way, they don’t have to spend a lot of time looking for food, water, or a safe place to sleep.

Save on computer

It’s the dead of winter here in Australia so it’s the perfect time to share some tips on keeping your aviaries warm and dry in cold weather. If you’re on the other side of the planet and hot weather is your concern right now, check out our Keep Your Birds Cool article, which is basically the opposite of that.

Cold temperatures, as long as they are above freezing, generally pose very little threat to most of the birds we keep in captivity. Cold winds and drafts, exposure to wind and rain, and fungal/bacterial infections are the real killers.

1. Provide warmth

When cold is the problem, providing heat is the obvious solution. Heat lamps and heated perches designed specifically for birds can be purchased, and birds quickly learn to perch near or on them when cold.

Make sure that birds cannot come into contact with the heat source, otherwise they could get burned. A popular solution to this problem is to place heated spheres in terracotta pots – this also limits the amount of light in the aviary at night.

2. Aviary position

Make sure the exposed sides of your aviary are protected from the wind and rain. Also make sure your aviary gets direct sunlight in the morning so your birds can sunbathe to recover from the early morning chill.

3. Aviary protection

If you cannot protect the aviary from direct wind and rain, the next best option is to cover the aviary. A tarp over the wire sections of the aviary is usually sufficient, but clear plastic tarps or blinds provide a far better view of the birds.

Clear plastic has the added benefit of creating a greenhouse effect, making the aviary significantly warmer. Not only does this make winter cold temperatures more bearable, but the extra warmth allows you to extend the breeding season into late fall and early spring.

4. Maintain dry floors

If the floor of your aviary is allowed to get wet for a long period of time, health problems in your flock are inevitable. Bacteria and fungi from bird droppings and discarded food will thrive in the humid conditions and quickly spread to your birds, especially if they like to forage for seeds and insects on the ground. If water enters your aviary, find out where it’s coming from and stop it immediately.

5. Change in diet

A bird’s metabolism generates heat as it breaks down food. To get the most out of this trait, feed your birds extra rich and complex foods when it’s cold. Oats, corn and sunflower seeds are said to help birds cope with cold temperatures.

Final Thoughts

A thoughtful aviary design is the best way to ensure your birds survive the harshest of winters. Remember that birds are naturally outdoor dwellers and are much more tolerant of extreme temperatures than humans, so there’s no need to overdo it and provide them with fully air-conditioned aviaries (unless you live somewhere where it *really * is cold), otherwise you risk breeding weak birds will not survive new owners.

If you live in an area that regularly gets below freezing, it may be best to contact a bird club for advice on housing your birds in your area. You may need to bring your birds indoors over the winter or completely enclose the aviaries.

Have you ever wondered how birds stay warm during the cold winter months? Common birch teeth are a good example. These energetic collectors weigh less than 15 grams and can survive temperatures nearly 100 degrees below freezing! How do you do that? Birds of all shapes and sizes have special adaptations for living in cold climates. Here are just a few examples of strong birds and their tips for staying warm.

Tremble

Image details Black-capped Chickadee perched on a branch.

Just like humans, birds shiver to stay warm. Birds have a much higher metabolism and use more energy to keep warm than we do. Black-capped Chickadee weighs less than 30g and can maintain a body temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit – even when the air temperature is 0 degrees! They do this by having excellent insulation, being very active, and remembering where they store their food. A constant supply of food is essential, because the tit eats more than 35 percent of its weight every day! Compared to many other birds, tits have a large hippocampus – the part of the brain responsible for spatial memory. In the fall, that part of their brain gets even bigger!

Fluffy feathers

Image details A red-bellied woodpecker shakes its feathers and visits a tallow feeder to keep warm on a cold day.

Whether it’s fat, fur, or feathers, insulation is important for most cold-weather animals. All cold climate birds gain body weight in late summer and fall in anticipation of the long, cold winter, but feathers also play an important role. All birds stay warm by trapping air pockets around their bodies. The secret to maintaining these layers of air lies in clean, dry, and flexible feathers. The cleaning process, commonly known as preening, depends on the bird species. While all birds produce a special oil from a gland near the base of their tail, some cold-tolerant birds use this oil to weatherproof their feathers. Other birds such as egrets, egrets, and mourning doves grow special feathers that dissolve into a powder that they impregnate their feathers with. Regardless of which weatherproofing method they use, preening helps birds maintain a water-resistant topcoat and a toasty warm innerlayer.

sleep and cuddle

Image details Tree Swallows huddle on a branch during a spring snowstorm.

Much like humans who may be warming up, small birds like tree swallows huddle in shrubs, vines, and evergreen trees to share body heat. They can also slow down their metabolism to conserve energy. Cave nesters such as nuthatches, tits and downy woodpeckers use tree cavities and nest boxes to keep warm. Cavities and boxes provide shelter from the elements and help birds hide from predators. Larger birds such as American crows and ring-billed gulls have also been known to band together for warmth.

Plugging feet and bills

Image details Canada geese conserve heat in winter.

Have you ever wondered how birds keep their legs warm? Waterfowl species circulate blood through countercurrent heat exchange, isolating the blood flowing in their legs rather than circulating it throughout their bodies. This helps keep their body temperature higher. Birds also have special scales on their feet and legs that help minimize heat loss. Many ducks, geese, pelicans, gulls and swans also store body heat by standing on one leg or even sitting down. The Canada geese pictured here tuck their beaks under their back feathers, keeping their beaks warm while increasing respiratory efficiency by utilizing warmer air.

how can you help

Image details A downy woodpecker visits a tallow feeding site on a winter’s day.

Would you like to help birds survive the winter? Consider offering high-energy foods like suet, peanuts, and sunflower seeds with black oil. Water is essential year-round, so adding a heated bird bath can help keep the birds hydrated – just remember to keep the water clean! You can provide shelter for many species by installing roosting boxes or leaving dead trees that may be suitable for birds that rely on tree cavities. Planting fruit-bearing trees and shrubs can help attract species like cedar waxwings—just remember to make sure you plant native species. If fruit-bearing trees aren’t for you, consider planting an evergreen tree!

Keeping birds is like eating candy. You want one thing first, then the other, and before you know it you want an aviary or even a house full of little feathered children flying around and pooping all over the place…

,…trust me, they do that a lot.

But the worry you’ll have every time you go to the pet store for your next bird isn’t poop, but can they live together?

Even more so in an aviary, because of course they cannot share a cage.

Well, can different birds (parrots)🐦🦜 live together in one aviary?

Yes and no. Mhhh🤔💭, mostly no😔, or is it?.

Mixing different birds in an aviary can be daunting unless you have a large aviary and extensive knowledge of the birds you are planning to mate. You also need to make sure they don’t irritate each other, and there are limited size and native racial differences.

These, as well as differences in body language, living conditions, diet and environmental preferences, allow only mating of the same species in most aviaries.

And please remember, whatever type of birds you are trying to combine, do so gradually and if possible let them become familiar with each other in a common area first; Renee Sheehan, owner of birds and cats and contributor to Quora.

However, there are select birds that, with a few hacks, tricks, and a truckload of luck, can live together in an aviary.

Please read on.

Birds that you can put together in an aviary

Assuming you have a large aviary sufficient to house more than a few birds, the best mating is birds of the same species, such as budgerigars, bourkees and grass parakeets, and sometimes of a similar size even if they are not of the same Kind of like budgerigars and cockatiels.

What you don’t want is two birds that differ wildly in size, say, cockatiels and eclectus…

,…or two species that have no common heritage, such as B. a native game or the species.

Perhaps the only other consideration is the beak configuration of the birds you have. Hookbills are a hazard when housed with flat beaks or whatever with the potential to harm fellow occupants.

Birds in particular (including parrots) can be carriers of asymptomatic diseases, so you need to be sure of your mating and your birds’ history (and lineage).

It also helps to quarantine new birds for as long as needed before introducing them to a community aviary.

What birds can live with budgerigars (parakeets)?

There is no doubt that budgerigars are the most commonly kept pet bird in the wild due to their small size and low maintenance needs, but what they lack in size they make up for in vivacity and a good deal of nuisance, making them difficult to mate with.

Budgies are like that pesky little brother that just doesn’t know when to stop and that can get them in trouble, especially with larger birds, LaManuka, Bird Lovers, Queensland, Australia.

Perhaps other budgies such as grass, bourke, or other budgies would be best, but they also do well with cockatiels.

Keeping your budgie with another parrot would take a bird with all the saints’ patience to avoid injuring the tiny but very brave budgie.

Long story short, if I were to keep my budgies in an aviary with others, I might start with one of these birds.

Other budgies

Bourke’s Parrots

cockatiels

loris

Zebra, Strite, Spice and Double Barred Finches

You can also try pigeons and doves with budgies, although they have different care, dietary requirements, and lifestyle preferences.

Please note that all budgies are budgies (the words are used interchangeably) but not all budgies are budgies.

What Birds Can Live With Cockatiels?

Cockatiels are almost as small and large as budgies in the Bobby, but less bold, so adding them to an aviary with budgies and a few other small parrots is acceptable.

Their gentle, docile, and loveable nature, combined with their endless social and passive activities, helps cockatiels fit into an aviary that your average small birds, like a budgie or lovebird, wouldn’t.

Cockatiels have been mated with many birds, from Squirrel Conures, Turquoise Parrots and Bourke’s Parakeets to finches, canaries and even quail with minimal strain.

If you ask me they are the most matable pet birds in the hobby.

Perhaps the only thing you need to be aware of is that due to their laid-back demeanor, cockatiels will be bullied by any bird larger than them.

So avoid keeping your cockatiel with large parrots or weird balls like lovebirds. Your bird will not be able to defend itself against these more aggressive birds.

A list of birds I would keep with cockatiels:

Bourke’s Parakeet

Red Crowned Parakeet

budgies

turquoise parrot

Grass Parakeet

Lioenolated parrot

Scarlet Parrot

finches

canaries

pigeons

I would avoid mating my cockatiels with large parrots including everything from conures, rosellas, ringnecks, cockatoos to macaws and small aggressive birds like lovebirds and parrots.

What Birds Can Live With Indian Ringnecks?

I think Indian ringnecks are a paradox.

How well they get along with other pets (in an aviary or at home) depends entirely on the bird you have.

One IRN can be a total eccentric who bullies everyone and everything, while another can be completely docile and take on a multitude of companions.

As such, adding an Indian Ringneck to a community aviary should be done with care and as an end point rather than a starting point.

In the beginning, your IRN should have his own cage next to the other birds to see his reaction and how much he likes the company.

Even so, you don’t want an Indian ringneck with birds that tease him like budgies and lovebirds because your Indian ringneck may not start a confrontation but will certainly end it.

If you must, keep your ringnecks with parrots of the same size with a subtle demeanor.

What Birds Can Live With Sun Conures?

Sun Conures are delightful, social little birds that not only get along well with other parakeets, but also with many birds, mostly of the same size. They will live with everything from budgerigars, cockatiels to finches and canaries.

Most large birds can also tolerate a Sun Conure, although as with any mating, it depends on each individual in the flock.

Additionally, it’s still helpful to remember that some parrots can be wildly intolerant of non-specific members (not their own kind), and caution is advised when keeping a Sun Conure with other birds.

Sun Conures can hybridize with a variety of other parakeets and even other parrots like mini macaws and amazons, so be careful with your mating.

Here are a few birds you could try with your sun conure in an aviary.

Green cheeky conures

cockatiels

budgies

Jenday conures

Amazons

finches

Well, all that for this post.

See you in the next.

Happy bird watching🦜🐦.

by Sheena de Jager Miles

There are several reasons to have plants in an aviary.

On the one hand, plants offer the aviary residents – your birds – shelter and hiding places. Most finches become very stressed and will not breed unless they have a chance to hide. A large bare aviary doesn’t offer much shelter for your birds. Adding some plants allows the birds to disappear into the bushes when threats such as hawks, slaughter birds, or even humans appear. A hen can escape a rooster bird that pursues her too closely. In a mixed collection, the more timid species can outrun the more aggressive birds.

Second, plants can provide additional food sources for birds. Plants attract a wide variety of insects, which provide the birds with natural live food and the practice and incentive to hunt down the individual insects to capture and eat them. If you have a moth trap, when you empty the trap in the morning, the trapped insects will fly into the shrubs and plants where the birds can chase them all day, instead of flying straight out of the aviary into the plants in the garden outside. Other plants, such as the various grasses, even provide food themselves with seeds, flowers, leaves and berries, which add variety to the birds’ diet.

Plants also provide potential nesting sites for the birds and are especially important for species that build their own nests and refuse to use nest boxes or baskets. With the planting of the aviary, the birds have different nesting places at different heights according to their individual preferences. In addition to the plants, the birds can have their own small territories and don’t have to compete with their neighbors all the time, being out of sight on the other side of a bush.

In the heat of our Queensland summers, plants have a significant cooling effect, providing shade for the birds to perch and nest. A nest of young doesn’t survive very long in the scorching sun, bird keepers have found, when birds build their nests too close to a bare metal roof. Plants can also serve as protection from bad weather and wind.

Plants, particularly grasses, also provide nesting material, as some species, particularly weavers, love to strip the leaves and use them to build their nests.

Bushes and grasses also offer the birds a variety of seating options, with the different sizes offering plenty of movement for their feet. The seeding grasses provide hours of entertainment while birds climb up and down the stems to try and reach the seed heads.

Finally, plants just look good and make an aviary a feast for the eyes with the birds flying around and in and out of the bushes and flowering plants.

But what kind of plants should we put in our aviaries and how should we plant them?

Basically, we have two options when planting. We can keep the plants in pots or plant them in the ground on the floor of the aviary. If the aviary hosts species that shed plants, it is probably better to keep at least some of your plants in pots. This allows the pots to be rotated in and out of the aviary, allowing the plants to recover and regrow before the birds get back inside. This is especially true for grasses and has the added benefit of preventing mice from gaining a foothold in the aviary by digging into the roots of the grass. Once established there, it is very difficult to get rid of them.

If you are planting directly in the aviary floor, consider the need to water them regularly. A drip irrigation system can be installed before planting, which when put on a timer makes caring for the plants very easy. But even if you don’t use an irrigation system, please remember that finches need nice, dry soil. Constantly moist soil promotes diseases. Puddles of water on the floor are not a good idea. Some sort of drainage is required. A good layer of river sand or fine-grained gravel on top of the soil will help the surface dry quickly.

With pots, remember that when using saucers, care should be taken to ensure that no water is left in these saucers, as they are an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes.

When choosing the plants we want in our aviaries, there are a few things to consider. First, check how tall and wide the plant or shrub will grow so you know how much space they will need. How fast is it growing? If a plant reaches 20m at maturity but takes 100 years to get there, this could be a viable option. On the other hand, if a plant is growing too fast, be prepared to prune it every few weeks or it will either take over the aviary or grow through the roof and/or wire, damaging your aviary and allowing the birds to escape. Do you have the right soil and weather conditions for the particular crop you have in mind? You can’t put a plant that needs full sun all day in a corner of the aviary that doesn’t get any sun at all, or a plant that likes light loam in a heavy loam, etc.

Take a few minutes to plan what to plant and where to place it in the aviary. Try to allow adequate sun down to the floor of the aviary to avoid dangerous fungal infections. Leave space between the plants for the birds to fly around and avoid planting tall plants at the front of the aviary that will keep the rest of the aviary shaded all day. Consider how much winter sun can get into the aviary with the plants you intend to use, and remember that grasses are trimmed and shrubs are trimmed in the fall to allow more light and air to reach the ground.

Shrubs suitable for an aviary:

For an aviary, it is preferable to use evergreen shrubs that do not grow higher than the roof to provide permanent shelter for the birds. In addition, many ground covers, vines, ferns and grasses can be used. You can consider any non-toxic small plant, tree, or shrub that suits your conditions. It’s a good idea to ask your local nursery for advice on what species will thrive in your area and soil type. Another consideration is the species of bird to be kept in the aviary. Some birds like a habitat that is lush and full of plants, while other species prefer an area with more open areas of sand, dirt, or gravel for fossil hunting. Also keep in mind that most native Australian plants do not like high phosphorus fertilizers but will benefit from regular pruning.

Some popular and suitable Australian Aborigines are listed below:

Melaleucas

This is an evergreen Australian native of the myrtle family with over 200 recognized species, some of which can grow to 30m in height. In the wild, these plants are generally found in open woodland, woodland, or scrubland, particularly along watercourses and at the edges of swamps. Ideally, these plants require fertile, well-drained, moisture-retaining, lime-free soil with plenty of sun. A few species suitable for growing in an aviary are M. erubescens (Pink Paperbark) grows to 1-2 m tall; M. thymifolia (thyme honey myrtle) grows up to 1 m tall; M alternifolia (Ti tree), used to make tea tree oil, is slow growing so can be kept as a bush for many years but will eventually grow to 15-10 feet.

leptosperms

Closely related to the Melaleucas, they are small evergreen shrubs with some small tree species. Many are commonly referred to as “tea trees.” This name derives from the practice of early Australian settlers, who steeped the leaves of various species in boiling water to brew an herbal tea rich in vitamin C. They tolerate most soils and exposures with good drainage and full sun. Some are frost and drought tolerant once established. In the aviary, species such as L. flavescens (wild may) grow up to 2 m tall; L. petersonii (lemon-scented tea tree) gives the aviary a fresh scent and grows up to 3 m tall; L. liversidgei (olive tea tree), which grows up to 2 m tall, can all be used.

Banksias

Another Australian native plant, Banksias is a woody evergreen ranging from deciduous shrubs to tall trees and is easily recognized by its distinctive inflorescences and cones. In the wild, they are found in a variety of landscapes – sclerophyllous forests, rainforest, scrubland and some drier areas. These grow best in well-drained soil in a sunny location, but are susceptible to root rot fungi in high humidity and heavy rainfall. For the aviary, species such as Brobur (Swamp Banksia) grow up to 2 m; B. oblongifolia (dwarf banksia) grows to 1-2 m; B collina (Golden Candlestick) with a height of 3m are a good choice.

Grevillea

There are thousands of different species as they cross so easily with such an enormous range of flower colors and shapes that there is a Grevillea that can be grown anywhere in Australia and will flower most of the year. The small species are of particular interest for the aviary and there are many dwarf varieties in nurseries these days. Some species to consider are ‘Robyn Gordon’ which grows up to 2m tall; “Shirley Howei” grows to 1.5 m tall; ‘Sericea’ (pink spider) grows 1-2 m tall and does best in sandy soil; ‘Pink Midget’ is a particularly hardy plant that resists drought as a groundcover; ‘Poorinda Royal Mantle’ is another groundcover.

Callistemons

Callistemons, or bottle brushes, are another colorful favorite. They are usually very hardy and prefer moist conditions, but many species tolerate drought and limited care. They grow well in a variety of soils except highly alkaline. Many varieties have been cultivated and are good subjects for the aviary, such as B. “Captain Cook”, which grows up to 2 m tall; ‘Tineroo’ grows to 2-3m tall and C polandii (Goldtip Bottlebrush) comes in a variety of heights but is available as a spreading shrub up to 1.5m tall.

hakeas

Hakeas are a member of the Protea family, some of which resemble Grevilleas. A very diverse group, they thrive best in well-drained soil in open, sunny positions, although they will tolerate some shade. They are also susceptible to root rot fungi if left constantly wet. They need good pruning from a young age to keep them neat and compact. Some suitable for the aviary are H. gibbosa (Hairy Hakea), which grows 1-3 m tall and is very spiny; H. purpurea an upright shrub that grows 1-3 m tall.

Other shrubs suitable for planting in aviaries are:

Baeckea virgata (Heather Myrtle) grows to a height of 1-3 m. A hardy, disease-free shrub that withstands droughts, frosts, and poor soil conditions. They thrive best in partially shaded areas.

Clerodendrum floribundum (Lolly Bush) is a shrub up to 5 m tall with white tubular flowers.

Melastoma polyanthum (Pink Lasiandra) grows as an upright, spreading shrub to 2 m. Often found in the wild along a freshwater stream, so its ideal habitat is plenty of water and protection from the sun.

Jacksonia scoparia (dogwood) are pea-flowered shrubs growing 2-3 m tall with flat, angular branches that are leafless except in young growth, resembling a gorse. Grows well in open sun on lighter soil and is hardy and long-lived.

Westringia fruticosa (coastal or native rosemary) is an easy to grow shrub with a neat appearance, reaching 1-2m in height. W. wynyabbie gem is an almost bulletproof hybrid. It grows to around 2m in height and prefers full sun and is at home in most soils. It is also resistant to salt.

The saltbush is hardy, hardy and in low rainfall it not only survives but also grows well. She responds well to pruning, which encourages fresher leaf growth. Gouldians are particularly fond of this plant.

Palm trees, ground cover and creepers

Other types of plants that can be used in aviaries include small palm trees, ground covers and creepers. Heavy floor coverings should be used with care, taking into account environmental conditions, to avoid persistently damp floors that can harbor mold, bacteria and disease. Creepers can be grown over a trellis to give shy species some much-needed privacy. This can be very valuable when space is at a premium. They can also be very useful when the aviary is in less than perfect conditions as they provide protection from the wind and bad weather. If some of these plants grow tall or dense, care should be taken not to trap birds in them. Some suitable plants include the following:

The bird’s nest fern (Asplenium nidus), or crow’s nest fern, grows in the wild on trees, rocks, and other vegetation in rainforests around the world. A moisture and shade loving plant whose fronds can reach up to 4 feet.

Midgen Berry (Austronyrtus dulcis) is an Australian native that grows into a dense, spreading shrub up to 40cm tall and 1.4m in diameter in full sun, but becomes a more open ground cover in shadier areas. It has white flowers and then produces white edible berries with small blue black spots and prefers sandy soil.

Cut-leaf daisy (Brachycome multifida) is a perennial herb found in the grassy understory of woods and open woods. It grows best in full sun but will also tolerate partial shade and will grow in a range of soil types including heavy clay and light sandy loam. It’s a hardy and colorful plant that doesn’t need much water and grows in clusters 0.5 m wide.

Pigface (Carpobrotus glaucenscens) is another flowering plant that loves the sun and is a creeping succulent that spreads up to 2m. It grows naturally in coastal areas on sand dunes and is very tolerant of salt and can withstand salt spray, strong winds and sandblasting with fleshy leaves, bright pink-purple flowers and a red-purple berry fruit used as a food source by Aborigines. Withstands long periods of drought.

Smooth flax lily (Dianella longifolia) is a clumping, perennial, fleshy plant that forms suckers and forms large clumps. In spring and summer, the plants produce long clusters of light blue flowers followed by blue berries that can be eaten by birds. Found in woods and meadows, it grows to 0.8 m tall in full sun or part shade in well-drained soil.

Golden Everlasting (Helichrysum bracteatum), Bracted Strawflower or Paper Daisy is a colorful self-seeding annual. It is a hardy plant that grows to a height of 1m in full sun and is in demand as a cut flower.

Snake Vine (Hibbertia scandens) or Golden Guinea Vine is a fairly vigorous climber that grows 2 to 5 m long and has large golden yellow flowers. It tolerates a wide range of climates, including salty winds, thrives best in full sun, but will also grow in partially shaded areas. It can suffocate smaller plants.

Bower Vine (Pandorea jasminiodes) or Pink Bower of Beauty is found in rainforest and moist sclerophyllous forests and is commonly found in suburban Australian gardens. It is a very hardy plant that grows in any reasonably well drained soil and produces tubular, pale pink flowers with a deep pink throat. It grows well on a fence or trellis.

The Wonga-Wonga vine (Pandorea pandorana) belongs to the same family and is found in many habitats, from rainforest to dry sclerophyllous forest to dry scrub and rocky outcrops. It can grow in both clay and sandy soils and produces cascades of tubular buds in a variety of colors.

Native passionflower (Passiflora aurantia) or obtuse-leaved passionfruit is a trailing climber with red or salmon-colored flowers followed by green fruits about 50mm in diameter. It prefers moist, fairly rich soil, sensible drainage, and can grow in full sun to part shade.

Native violet (Viola hederacea) forms mats up to 50 cm wide with small white and purple flowers on 15 cm long stalks almost all year round. It is a hardy perennial that likes moist locations and shade but will tolerate full sun. It will grow well in almost any area except very dry conditions.

Vitex ovata is a vigorous groundcover recommended for difficult landscape environments; particularly exposed coastal regions and lane medians will therefore withstand most conditions. Its flowers are attractive to nectar-eating birds.

Dwarf palms are also a consideration as they provide nesting sites and nesting material for birds such as the African weaver. Various conifers and English ivy are other plants that can be used in an aviary.

grasses

Grasses are a popular and useful plant in an aviary and their seeds form a large part of a wild finch’s diet. Wild grasses can be found in most parts of Australia and collected to feed to your birds. The easiest way to ensure your weed isn’t contaminated by sprays, toxins, or traffic exhaust particles is to grow your own either in the aviary or in your backyard. Grasses not only produce seed heads that are eaten by the birds, but can also be stripped and used to build nests. Some birds even build their nests in the grass. As previously mentioned, care must be taken to ensure that mice do not take up residence in your tuft of grass as they are very difficult to get rid of once established. When grasses are grown in pots, they can be swapped out to provide the birds with a continuous supply of fresh green seeds. If grasses are planted in the aviary, they should be cut back at the beginning of winter and allow plenty of winter sun into the aviary. They will grow back in spring.

Make sure the grass is fresh and never feed moldy grass or seed heads that have a sticky residue, usually black, called ergot as this will kill your birds. Additional seed heads can be placed in freezer bags and placed in the freezer until ready to use.

Some popular grasses are the following and grow between 1 and 3 m tall:

Johnson Grass (Sorghum halepense) grows in dense clumps and can reach a height of 2.4 m.

New Guinea palmgrass (Setaria palmifolia) has broad leaves that some finches like to strip off.

Pit Grass (Setaria spp) is similar but with a finer leaf.

Green panic grass (Panicum maximum var. trihoglume) is one of our favorite Queensland grasses.

Barnyardgrass (Echinochlao crus-galli) is an annual grass and a single plant can produce up to 40,000 seeds.

Pampas grass (Cortaderia sp) has large, fluffy seed heads that make great ornaments in suburban gardens, but dry, fluffy heads are used by the birds to line their nests.

Small bamboos are also popular plants in an aviary, but care should be taken as some species can be very invasive. The best idea is to build a concrete wall around the plant to contain the size of the clump of bamboo. The leaves are great nesting material and the plants make good nesting sites.

seed mix. If you’re having trouble finding grassheads in your area, consider planting some of your litter-finch mix in pots or the aviary because as the seedheads grow, your birds can make their own “finch-mix”.

Finches like to pick over a clump of lawn grass so either grow a patch in the aviary or cut sods and place in old ice buckets, water them and then rotate them into a container in the aviary each day and watch your birds jump in. The same can be done with clover and other green foods like silver beet, endive, milk thistle, etc.

After all, you have planned and planted your aviary and then let the birds loose. But after a few days some plants were bare. What can you do?

If you planted them in pots, you can easily turn the pot out of the aviary to recover, but once you planted them, there is a solution. Bird wire can easily be bent into a frame to cover the plant so the birds can only get at the new shoots that extend through the wire and the plant can survive. Pots can also be stored under a wire frame to protect the plant if needed.

Pet birds are spending increasing amounts of time outside their cages as aviculture increases and birds become ‘mobile companions’. Even so, proper cage selection and management are important, even if the cage is only used at night or as a “home base”.

cage selection

Buy the largest cage you can afford, preferably the longest rather than the tallest. Tall, narrow, cylindrical cages are unsuitable for most birds.

Make sure the cage is strong enough and has straight sides for easy cleaning.

If the cage is galvanized, scrub it repeatedly with a 50:50 solution of vinegar and water to neutralize the zinc coating, which can cause heavy metal poisoning.

Wooden lattice cages should not be used for parrots or budgies. These are meant for canaries, but even then they make it difficult to see the birds inside and difficult to clean. Avoid them if possible.

In the cage

Overcrowding the cage with toys and swings is not such a good idea, especially if the bird is always in the cage.

Line the bottom of the cage with newspaper, paper towels, or clean sand. Do not use wood shavings, shavings, sandpaper, grit or sawdust. Some cages have a wire or “hanging” floor, and that’s fine as long as the birds don’t make contact with their droppings.

food and water

Food and water bowls must be cleaned daily and spaced apart in the cage to prevent the bird from “dunking” their food. Hooded bowls are available to minimize clutter.

Bird baths or a fine jet of water are appreciated by birds for cleaning.

toys

Toys for cages must be carefully selected. Avoid hooks, wire ties, detachable bells, and anything that could pinch or choke the bird. The best toys are often free – pinecones, seed sprays, rubber nuts, etc. Be aware that birds sometimes try to feed the other “bird” they see in the mirror and this can be mistaken for vomiting.

perches

Perches should be natural branches from native trees of various diameters, which are replaced rather than cleaned when dirty. Metal or plastic poles should be avoided and only use wooden dowels if branches are not available. Only put two or three perches in a cage and be careful not to place them over food or water bowls to avoid contamination.

Sandpaper covers or perches can cause foot and toe damage and should be avoided.

location of the cage

Cages should be placed at eye level or higher (never on the floor).

An outdoor aviary

When setting up an outdoor aviary, consider all of the following:

Aspect of facing – should be kept away from rain and wind. East to north is best.

Materials – Do not use treated pine or softwood

roof type and floor type

The shade

Pest control (vermin).

quarantine area

perches

Placement of food and water bowls

parasite control

aviary plants

breed records

Hygiene and disinfection weekly

We can advise you on all of these questions if you are considering building a backyard aviary.

Pet birds are spending increasing amounts of time outside their cages as aviculture increases and birds become ‘mobile companions’. Even so, proper cage selection and management are important, even if the cage is only used at night or as a “home base”.

cage selection

Buy the largest cage you can afford, preferably the longest rather than the tallest. Tall, narrow, cylindrical cages are unsuitable for most birds.

Make sure the cage is strong enough and has straight sides for easy cleaning.

If the cage is galvanized, scrub it repeatedly with a 50:50 solution of vinegar and water to neutralize the zinc coating, which can cause heavy metal poisoning.

Wooden lattice cages should not be used for parrots or budgies. These are meant for canaries, but even then they make it difficult to see the birds inside and difficult to clean. Avoid them if possible.

In the cage

Overcrowding the cage with toys and swings is not such a good idea, especially if the bird is always in the cage.

Line the bottom of the cage with newspaper, paper towels, or clean sand. Do not use wood shavings, shavings, sandpaper, grit or sawdust. Some cages have a wire or “hanging” floor, and that’s fine as long as the birds don’t make contact with their droppings.

food and water

Food and water bowls must be cleaned daily and spaced apart in the cage to prevent the bird from “dunking” their food. Hooded bowls are available to minimize clutter.

Bird baths or a fine jet of water are appreciated by birds for cleaning.

toys

Toys for cages must be carefully selected. Avoid hooks, wire ties, detachable bells, and anything that could pinch or choke the bird. The best toys are often free – pinecones, seed sprays, rubber nuts, etc. Be aware that birds sometimes try to feed the other “bird” they see in the mirror and this can be mistaken for vomiting.

perches

Perches should be natural branches from native trees of various diameters, which are replaced rather than cleaned when dirty. Metal or plastic poles should be avoided and only use wooden dowels if branches are not available. Only put two or three perches in a cage and be careful not to place them over food or water bowls to avoid contamination.

Sandpaper covers or perches can cause foot and toe damage and should be avoided.

location of the cage

Cages should be placed at eye level or higher (never on the floor).

An outdoor aviary

When setting up an outdoor aviary, consider all of the following:

Aspect of facing – should be kept away from rain and wind. East to north is best.

Materials – Do not use treated pine or softwood

roof type and floor type

The shade

Pest control (vermin).

quarantine area

perches

Placement of food and water bowls

parasite control

aviary plants

breed records

Hygiene and disinfection weekly

We can advise you on all of these questions if you are considering building a backyard aviary.

by Sheena de Jager Miles

There are several reasons to have plants in an aviary.

On the one hand, plants offer the aviary residents – your birds – shelter and hiding places. Most finches become very stressed and will not breed unless they have a chance to hide. A large bare aviary doesn’t offer much shelter for your birds. Adding some plants allows the birds to disappear into the bushes when threats such as hawks, slaughter birds, or even humans appear. A hen can escape a rooster bird that pursues her too closely. In a mixed collection, the more timid species can outrun the more aggressive birds.

Second, plants can provide additional food sources for birds. Plants attract a wide variety of insects, which provide the birds with natural live food and the practice and incentive to hunt down the individual insects to capture and eat them. If you have a moth trap, when you empty the trap in the morning, the trapped insects will fly into the shrubs and plants where the birds can chase them all day, instead of flying straight out of the aviary into the plants in the garden outside. Other plants, such as the various grasses, even provide food themselves with seeds, flowers, leaves and berries, which add variety to the birds’ diet.

Plants also provide potential nesting sites for the birds and are especially important for species that build their own nests and refuse to use nest boxes or baskets. With the planting of the aviary, the birds have different nesting places at different heights according to their individual preferences. In addition to the plants, the birds can have their own small territories and don’t have to compete with their neighbors all the time, being out of sight on the other side of a bush.

In the heat of our Queensland summers, plants have a significant cooling effect, providing shade for the birds to perch and nest. A nest of young doesn’t survive very long in the scorching sun, bird keepers have found, when birds build their nests too close to a bare metal roof. Plants can also serve as protection from bad weather and wind.

Plants, particularly grasses, also provide nesting material, as some species, particularly weavers, love to strip the leaves and use them to build their nests.

Bushes and grasses also offer the birds a variety of seating options, with the different sizes offering plenty of movement for their feet. The seeding grasses provide hours of entertainment while birds climb up and down the stems to try and reach the seed heads.

Finally, plants just look good and make an aviary a feast for the eyes with the birds flying around and in and out of the bushes and flowering plants.

But what kind of plants should we put in our aviaries and how should we plant them?

Basically, we have two options when planting. We can keep the plants in pots or plant them in the ground on the floor of the aviary. If the aviary hosts species that shed plants, it is probably better to keep at least some of your plants in pots. This allows the pots to be rotated in and out of the aviary, allowing the plants to recover and regrow before the birds get back inside. This is especially true for grasses and has the added benefit of preventing mice from gaining a foothold in the aviary by digging into the roots of the grass. Once established there, it is very difficult to get rid of them.

If you are planting directly in the aviary floor, consider the need to water them regularly. A drip irrigation system can be installed before planting, which when put on a timer makes caring for the plants very easy. But even if you don’t use an irrigation system, please remember that finches need nice, dry soil. Constantly moist soil promotes diseases. Puddles of water on the floor are not a good idea. Some sort of drainage is required. A good layer of river sand or fine-grained gravel on top of the soil will help the surface dry quickly.

With pots, remember that when using saucers, care should be taken to ensure that no water is left in these saucers, as they are an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes.

When choosing the plants we want in our aviaries, there are a few things to consider. First, check how tall and wide the plant or shrub will grow so you know how much space they will need. How fast is it growing? If a plant reaches 20m at maturity but takes 100 years to get there, this could be a viable option. On the other hand, if a plant is growing too fast, be prepared to prune it every few weeks or it will either take over the aviary or grow through the roof and/or wire, damaging your aviary and allowing the birds to escape. Do you have the right soil and weather conditions for the particular crop you have in mind? You can’t put a plant that needs full sun all day in a corner of the aviary that doesn’t get any sun at all, or a plant that likes light loam in a heavy loam, etc.

Take a few minutes to plan what to plant and where to place it in the aviary. Try to allow adequate sun down to the floor of the aviary to avoid dangerous fungal infections. Leave space between the plants for the birds to fly around and avoid planting tall plants at the front of the aviary that will keep the rest of the aviary shaded all day. Consider how much winter sun can get into the aviary with the plants you intend to use, and remember that grasses are trimmed and shrubs are trimmed in the fall to allow more light and air to reach the ground.

Shrubs suitable for an aviary:

For an aviary, it is preferable to use evergreen shrubs that do not grow higher than the roof to provide permanent shelter for the birds. In addition, many ground covers, vines, ferns and grasses can be used. You can consider any non-toxic small plant, tree, or shrub that suits your conditions. It’s a good idea to ask your local nursery for advice on what species will thrive in your area and soil type. Another consideration is the species of bird to be kept in the aviary. Some birds like a habitat that is lush and full of plants, while other species prefer an area with more open areas of sand, dirt, or gravel for fossil hunting. Also keep in mind that most native Australian plants do not like high phosphorus fertilizers but will benefit from regular pruning.

Some popular and suitable Australian Aborigines are listed below:

Melaleucas

This is an evergreen Australian native of the myrtle family with over 200 recognized species, some of which can grow to 30m in height. In the wild, these plants are generally found in open woodland, woodland, or scrubland, particularly along watercourses and at the edges of swamps. Ideally, these plants require fertile, well-drained, moisture-retaining, lime-free soil with plenty of sun. A few species suitable for growing in an aviary are M. erubescens (Pink Paperbark) grows to 1-2 m tall; M. thymifolia (thyme honey myrtle) grows up to 1 m tall; M alternifolia (Ti tree), used to make tea tree oil, is slow growing so can be kept as a bush for many years but will eventually grow to 15-10 feet.

leptosperms

Closely related to the Melaleucas, they are small evergreen shrubs with some small tree species. Many are commonly referred to as “tea trees.” This name derives from the practice of early Australian settlers, who steeped the leaves of various species in boiling water to brew an herbal tea rich in vitamin C. They tolerate most soils and exposures with good drainage and full sun. Some are frost and drought tolerant once established. In the aviary, species such as L. flavescens (wild may) grow up to 2 m tall; L. petersonii (lemon-scented tea tree) gives the aviary a fresh scent and grows up to 3 m tall; L. liversidgei (olive tea tree), which grows up to 2 m tall, can all be used.

Banksias

Another Australian native plant, Banksias is a woody evergreen ranging from deciduous shrubs to tall trees and is easily recognized by its distinctive inflorescences and cones. In the wild, they are found in a variety of landscapes – sclerophyllous forests, rainforest, scrubland and some drier areas. These grow best in well-drained soil in a sunny location, but are susceptible to root rot fungi in high humidity and heavy rainfall. For the aviary, species such as Brobur (Swamp Banksia) grow up to 2 m; B. oblongifolia (dwarf banksia) grows to 1-2 m; B collina (Golden Candlestick) with a height of 3m are a good choice.

Grevillea

There are thousands of different species as they cross so easily with such an enormous range of flower colors and shapes that there is a Grevillea that can be grown anywhere in Australia and will flower most of the year. The small species are of particular interest for the aviary and there are many dwarf varieties in nurseries these days. Some species to consider are ‘Robyn Gordon’ which grows up to 2m tall; “Shirley Howei” grows to 1.5 m tall; ‘Sericea’ (pink spider) grows 1-2 m tall and does best in sandy soil; ‘Pink Midget’ is a particularly hardy plant that resists drought as a groundcover; ‘Poorinda Royal Mantle’ is another groundcover.

Callistemons

Callistemons, or bottle brushes, are another colorful favorite. They are usually very hardy and prefer moist conditions, but many species tolerate drought and limited care. They grow well in a variety of soils except highly alkaline. Many varieties have been cultivated and are good subjects for the aviary, such as B. “Captain Cook”, which grows up to 2 m tall; ‘Tineroo’ grows to 2-3m tall and C polandii (Goldtip Bottlebrush) comes in a variety of heights but is available as a spreading shrub up to 1.5m tall.

hakeas

Hakeas are a member of the Protea family, some of which resemble Grevilleas. A very diverse group, they thrive best in well-drained soil in open, sunny positions, although they will tolerate some shade. They are also susceptible to root rot fungi if left constantly wet. They need good pruning from a young age to keep them neat and compact. Some suitable for the aviary are H. gibbosa (Hairy Hakea), which grows 1-3 m tall and is very spiny; H. purpurea an upright shrub that grows 1-3 m tall.

Other shrubs suitable for planting in aviaries are:

Baeckea virgata (Heather Myrtle) grows to a height of 1-3 m. A hardy, disease-free shrub that withstands droughts, frosts, and poor soil conditions. They thrive best in partially shaded areas.

Clerodendrum floribundum (Lolly Bush) is a shrub up to 5 m tall with white tubular flowers.

Melastoma polyanthum (Pink Lasiandra) grows as an upright, spreading shrub to 2 m. Often found in the wild along a freshwater stream, so its ideal habitat is plenty of water and protection from the sun.

Jacksonia scoparia (dogwood) are pea-flowered shrubs growing 2-3 m tall with flat, angular branches that are leafless except in young growth, resembling a gorse. Grows well in open sun on lighter soil and is hardy and long-lived.

Westringia fruticosa (coastal or native rosemary) is an easy to grow shrub with a neat appearance, reaching 1-2m in height. W. wynyabbie gem is an almost bulletproof hybrid. It grows to around 2m in height and prefers full sun and is at home in most soils. It is also resistant to salt.

The saltbush is hardy, hardy and in low rainfall it not only survives but also grows well. She responds well to pruning, which encourages fresher leaf growth. Gouldians are particularly fond of this plant.

Palm trees, ground cover and creepers

Other types of plants that can be used in aviaries include small palm trees, ground covers and creepers. Heavy floor coverings should be used with care, taking into account environmental conditions, to avoid persistently damp floors that can harbor mold, bacteria and disease. Creepers can be grown over a trellis to give shy species some much-needed privacy. This can be very valuable when space is at a premium. They can also be very useful when the aviary is in less than perfect conditions as they provide protection from the wind and bad weather. If some of these plants grow tall or dense, care should be taken not to trap birds in them. Some suitable plants include the following:

The bird’s nest fern (Asplenium nidus), or crow’s nest fern, grows in the wild on trees, rocks, and other vegetation in rainforests around the world. A moisture and shade loving plant whose fronds can reach up to 4 feet.

Midgen Berry (Austronyrtus dulcis) is an Australian native that grows into a dense, spreading shrub up to 40cm tall and 1.4m in diameter in full sun, but becomes a more open ground cover in shadier areas. It has white flowers and then produces white edible berries with small blue black spots and prefers sandy soil.

Cut-leaf daisy (Brachycome multifida) is a perennial herb found in the grassy understory of woods and open woods. It grows best in full sun but will also tolerate partial shade and will grow in a range of soil types including heavy clay and light sandy loam. It’s a hardy and colorful plant that doesn’t need much water and grows in clusters 0.5 m wide.

Pigface (Carpobrotus glaucenscens) is another flowering plant that loves the sun and is a creeping succulent that spreads up to 2m. It grows naturally in coastal areas on sand dunes and is very tolerant of salt and can withstand salt spray, strong winds and sandblasting with fleshy leaves, bright pink-purple flowers and a red-purple berry fruit used as a food source by Aborigines. Withstands long periods of drought.

Smooth flax lily (Dianella longifolia) is a clumping, perennial, fleshy plant that forms suckers and forms large clumps. In spring and summer, the plants produce long clusters of light blue flowers followed by blue berries that can be eaten by birds. Found in woods and meadows, it grows to 0.8 m tall in full sun or part shade in well-drained soil.

Golden Everlasting (Helichrysum bracteatum), Bracted Strawflower or Paper Daisy is a colorful self-seeding annual. It is a hardy plant that grows to a height of 1m in full sun and is in demand as a cut flower.

Snake Vine (Hibbertia scandens) or Golden Guinea Vine is a fairly vigorous climber that grows 2 to 5 m long and has large golden yellow flowers. It tolerates a wide range of climates, including salty winds, thrives best in full sun, but will also grow in partially shaded areas. It can suffocate smaller plants.

Bower Vine (Pandorea jasminiodes) or Pink Bower of Beauty is found in rainforest and moist sclerophyllous forests and is commonly found in suburban Australian gardens. It is a very hardy plant that grows in any reasonably well drained soil and produces tubular, pale pink flowers with a deep pink throat. It grows well on a fence or trellis.

The Wonga-Wonga vine (Pandorea pandorana) belongs to the same family and is found in many habitats, from rainforest to dry sclerophyllous forest to dry scrub and rocky outcrops. It can grow in both clay and sandy soils and produces cascades of tubular buds in a variety of colors.

Native passionflower (Passiflora aurantia) or obtuse-leaved passionfruit is a trailing climber with red or salmon-colored flowers followed by green fruits about 50mm in diameter. It prefers moist, fairly rich soil, sensible drainage, and can grow in full sun to part shade.

Native violet (Viola hederacea) forms mats up to 50 cm wide with small white and purple flowers on 15 cm long stalks almost all year round. It is a hardy perennial that likes moist locations and shade but will tolerate full sun. It will grow well in almost any area except very dry conditions.

Vitex ovata is a vigorous groundcover recommended for difficult landscape environments; particularly exposed coastal regions and lane medians will therefore withstand most conditions. Its flowers are attractive to nectar-eating birds.

Dwarf palms are also a consideration as they provide nesting sites and nesting material for birds such as the African weaver. Various conifers and English ivy are other plants that can be used in an aviary.

grasses

Grasses are a popular and useful plant in an aviary and their seeds form a large part of a wild finch’s diet. Wild grasses can be found in most parts of Australia and collected to feed to your birds. The easiest way to ensure your weed isn’t contaminated by sprays, toxins, or traffic exhaust particles is to grow your own either in the aviary or in your backyard. Grasses not only produce seed heads that are eaten by the birds, but can also be stripped and used to build nests. Some birds even build their nests in the grass. As previously mentioned, care must be taken to ensure that mice do not take up residence in your tuft of grass as they are very difficult to get rid of once established. When grasses are grown in pots, they can be swapped out to provide the birds with a continuous supply of fresh green seeds. If grasses are planted in the aviary, they should be cut back at the beginning of winter and allow plenty of winter sun into the aviary. They will grow back in spring.

Make sure the grass is fresh and never feed moldy grass or seed heads that have a sticky residue, usually black, called ergot as this will kill your birds. Additional seed heads can be placed in freezer bags and placed in the freezer until ready to use.

Some popular grasses are the following and grow between 1 and 3 m tall:

Johnson Grass (Sorghum halepense) grows in dense clumps and can reach a height of 2.4 m.

New Guinea palmgrass (Setaria palmifolia) has broad leaves that some finches like to strip off.

Pit Grass (Setaria spp) is similar but with a finer leaf.

Green panic grass (Panicum maximum var. trihoglume) is one of our favorite Queensland grasses.

Barnyardgrass (Echinochlao crus-galli) is an annual grass and a single plant can produce up to 40,000 seeds.

Pampas grass (Cortaderia sp) has large, fluffy seed heads that make great ornaments in suburban gardens, but dry, fluffy heads are used by the birds to line their nests.

Small bamboos are also popular plants in an aviary, but care should be taken as some species can be very invasive. The best idea is to build a concrete wall around the plant to contain the size of the clump of bamboo. The leaves are great nesting material and the plants make good nesting sites.

seed mix. If you’re having trouble finding grassheads in your area, consider planting some of your litter-finch mix in pots or the aviary because as the seedheads grow, your birds can make their own “finch-mix”.

Finches like to pick over a clump of lawn grass so either grow a patch in the aviary or cut sods and place in old ice buckets, water them and then rotate them into a container in the aviary each day and watch your birds jump in. The same can be done with clover and other green foods like silver beet, endive, milk thistle, etc.

After all, you have planned and planted your aviary and then let the birds loose. But after a few days some plants were bare. What can you do?

If you planted them in pots, you can easily turn the pot out of the aviary to recover, but once you planted them, there is a solution. Bird wire can easily be bent into a frame to cover the plant so the birds can only get at the new shoots that extend through the wire and the plant can survive. Pots can also be stored under a wire frame to protect the plant if needed.

pests in aviaries

In WA home gardens, aviaries are infested with rodents, insects and wild birds which can spread parasites, bacterial and fungal diseases.

House aviaries can be infested by rodents and insects.

Mice and rats are attracted to birdseed and can contaminate feeders with their droppings. Exclude rodents from the aviary by surrounding the floor of the aviary with a galvanized sheet of iron. This should be 300mm above the ground and buried 300-600mm. A concrete floor prevents the rodents from digging into the aviary. If a rodent manages to get in, it can be controlled using traps placed in birdproof boxes in the cages. To avoid rodents, keep the outside of the aviary free of food debris. Hanging feeders, rather than floor or wall mounted, help deter rodents. Install traps and poison in birdproof boxes outside the aviary. Some aviary owners keep a guinea pig in the aviary to deter rats and mice.

Insects can also be carriers of diseases and parasites. In WA, ants and cockroaches are the most common insect pests in aviaries, along with mites, ticks and fleas. If necessary, application of a registered surface spray should control most insects (ask your chemical supplier, hardware store or pet shop).

It is also important to avoid contact of aviary birds with wild birds. A double wire on the outside makes predation by wild birds more difficult as some can attack through a single wire. Wild birds are often carriers of internal parasites (e.g. intestinal worms) or air sac mites, Sternostoma tracheacolum.

The popular Gouldian finches and canaries are particularly susceptible to air sac mites. A clinical sign of air sac mites is open-mouth breathing, which has a characteristic clicking sound. If the infection is severe, some birds can be seen gasping for air. Other signs include coughing, nasal discharge, tail bobbing, weakness, and weight loss. If your birds are affected, contact your local veterinarian for treatment.

Unknown Pests

The Department of Agriculture and Food, Western Australia (DAFWA) looks out for animal and plant pests, diseases and weeds that may pose a threat to agriculture and the environment.

If you spot anything unfamiliar please send a photo to the Pest and Disease Information Service (PaDIS) by email: [email protected] or call them on Freecall: 1800 084 881.

Please read the web article Submit Samples for Identification before submitting or submitting samples to the Pest and Disease Information Service, 3 Baron-Hay Court, South Perth, 6151, WA.