Phase 10 App Cheats? The 128 Correct Answer

card game

Phase 10 Cards used in Phase 10 (original version with colored wild and skip cards) Designer Kenneth Johnson Publisher Mattel Players Two to six Setup time < 1 minute Game time > 3 minutes per hand (45-90 minutes, 6 players) Random Chance High Required Skills Store important cards; knowing when to discard those cards; match, order

Phase 10 is a card game developed by Kenneth Johnson in 1982 and sold by Mattel, which acquired the rights from Fundex Games in 2010.[1] Phase 10 is based on a rummy variant known as contract rummy. It requires a special deck or two regular decks of cards; It can be played by two to six people. The game is named after the ten stages (or melds) a player must go through in order to win. Phase 10 was Fundex’s best-selling product, selling over 62,600,000 copies in 2016. This makes it the second best selling commercial card game after Mattel’s Uno.[2] In December 2010, Fundex sold its licensing rights to Phase 10 to Mattel.

Goal [edit]

The aim of the game is to be the first to complete all ten phases. In the event that two players complete the final stage in the same hand, the player who completes the final stage with the lowest total score is the winner. If those scores are also tied, a tiebreaker round is played in which the tied players attempt to complete phase ten (or, in variants, the final phase each player had attempted to complete in the previous round).

In any hand, each player’s goal is to complete the current phase and discard, and then rid their hand of remaining cards by discarding them in discard phases known as “hit”. The player who does so first wins the hand and incurs no penalty; All other players receive penalty points according to the value of the cards they still have in their hands.

There are one hundred and eight cards in a deck:

ninety-six numbered cards: two of each rank from one to twelve, in each of four suits. Therefore there are 24 cards of each suit and eight of each rank.

eight wildcards;

four skip cards;

In two regular decks, suits can represent the four different suits, kings can represent the wild cards, and jokers can represent the skip cards.

Phases [ edit ]

A phase is a combination of cards. Phases usually consist of sets (multiple cards of the same rank), runs (multiple cards in ascending order), cards of one suit, or a combination thereof. As the name suggests, there are ten phases:

Original and Master’s Edition phases:

Phase 1: 2 sets of 3

Phase 2: 1 set of 3 + 1 run of 4

Phase 3: 1 set of 4 + 1 run of 4

Phase 4: 1 run of 7

Phase 5: 1 run of 8

Stage 6: 1 run of 9

Phase 7: 2 sets of 4

Phase 8: 7 cards of one suit

Phase 9: 1 set of 5 + 1 set of 2

Phase 10: 1 run of 5 + 1 set of 3

Phase 10 Twist Phases:

Phase 1: 3 sets of 3

Phase 2: 4 sets of 2

Phase 3: 1 set of 5 + 1 run of 4

Phase 4: 2 sets of 3 + 1 run of 3

Phase 5: 1 set of 3 + 1 run of 6

Phase 6: 2 runs of 4

Phase 7: 1 series of 4 + 4 cards of one suit

Phase 8: 1 run of 5 in one suit

Phase 9: 8 cards of one suit

Phase 10: 9 cards of one suit

Definitions[edit]

Set: A set consists of two or more cards of the same number and any suit.

: A set consists of two or more cards of the same number and any suit. Run: A run (similar to a straight) consists of three or more cards of any suit, numbered sequentially. Runs can go from one to twelve.

: A run (similar to a straight) consists of three or more cards of any suit, numbered sequentially. Runs can go from one to twelve. Suit: Phase 8 of the Original and Master’s Edition and several phases of Phase 10 Twist require the player to collect cards that are all the same suit (or suit if regular playing cards are used). Runs don’t all have to be monochromatic (like many standard deck rummy variants). Wilds, while having a printed color in certain editions, can be used to represent any color, and Skips, while blue in certain editions, cannot be used to complete that (or any) stage.

Even or Odd: An even or odd consists of two or more cards that are either even (2,4,6,8,10,12) or odd (1,3,5,7,9,11).

How to play[edit]

One player is selected as the dealer (alternatively, the deal can rotate left after each hand). The dealer shuffles the deck and deals 10 face down cards to each player in a row. Players keep their 10 cards in hand so the other players cannot see them. The remaining deck is placed face down in the center of the play area, forming the draw deck. An exposed wild card goes to the next player. The dealer then turns over the top card of the draw pile and places it next to the draw pile to become the discard pile. During the first hand, all players attempt to complete Phase 1. The game consists of;

1. Draw a card from either the draw pile or the discard pile

2. Determination of their completed current phase (if possible)

3. Hitting other players’ phases once they have determined their own phase. (on same hand)

4. Put a card on the discard pile.

Closing phases[ edit ]

The phases must be executed in order from 1 to 10.

A player must have the entire phase in hand before laying it down.

A player may specify more than the minimum requirements of a phase, but only if the additional cards can be added directly to the cards already in the phase. For example, if a phase requires a set of 3, but the player has four of those cards, the player can discard all four cards when ending the phase.

Only one phase may be made per hand. For example, a player who needs to make a 7-card run (phase 4) cannot complete the next two phases in the same hand by making a 9-card run.

If a player successfully makes a phase, he tries to make the next phase in the next hand. If they fail to make a phase, they must try to make the same phase again in the next hand. As a result, not all players may be working on the same phase in the same hand.

Players receive credit for creating a stage once it is set. A player does not have to win the hand to receive credit for the stage. Often, multiple players complete their phase in the same hand.

hit [ edit ]

Hitting is the way to get rid of leftover cards after a phase. A hit is scored by placing a card directly onto an already discarded phase. The cards must pass correctly if the cards are already down. Before a player can score a hit, their own phase must already be established. A player may only capture during his turn. A player may hit any combination of his own phase and another player’s phases, and may hit with as many cards as can be played from the player’s hand in a single turn. Players may not replace a wild card in a phase with a card from their hand that matches the card represented by the wild. Substituting wild cards is one possible variation rule.

going out/ending a hand [edit]

After a phase has been established, players try to “go out” as quickly as possible. To go out, a player must get rid of all of their cards by drawing and discarding. All players who complete their phase advance to the next hand, while all players who fail to complete their phase remain in the same phase for the next hand. Players count the total value of the cards they have left in their hands (the fewer cards they have left in their hands, the better) and score them as follows:

five points (5) for each card valued 1-9

ten points (10) for each card valued 10-12

fifteen points (15) for a skip

twenty-five points (25) for a wild

Each player’s score for the hand is added to that player’s running total (players who have not completed their stage cannot have a hand score lower than 50, and often have far more if you add in extra points for large stats and wilds ; this is known as “bet” similar to hearts or spades), the deal turns left, all cards are shuffled, and a new hand begins. If a player does not complete their phase before another player goes out, they must work on the same phase in the next hand.

win [edit]

If only one player attempts phase number 10 in their hand and completes the phase, they become the winner and the game ends immediately. If two or more players complete Stage 10 in the same hand, the player who completes Stage 10 and has the lowest total score wins. In the event of a tie, the tied players repeat phase number 10 and the first player to complete their phase and discard all their cards wins.

Variations[edit]

Official Variation Phase Sets [ edit ]

Utah Rules:

If someone is down and used a wild in their phase, when you are down you can replace their wild with whatever card it has room for and move the wild left or right

Phase 10 Island Paradise:

Phase 1: 1 run of 7

Phase 2: 1 set of 2 + 2 sets of 3

Phase 3: 1 run of 6 + 1 set of 2

Phase 4: 3 sets of 2 + 1 set of 3

Phase 5: 1 set of 3 + 1 run of 6

Phase 6: 2 runs of 4

Phase 7: 3 cards of one suit + 1 set of 4

Phase 8: 8 cards of one suit

Phase 9: 4 cards of one suit + 1 set of 5

Phase 10: 9 cards of one suit

Stage 10 Cocoa Canyon:

Phase 1: 6 cards of one suit

Phase 2: 7 cards of one suit

Phase 3: 4 cards of one suit + 5 cards of one suit

Phase 4: 2 sets of 3

Phase 5: 1 run of 8

Stage 6: 1 run of 9

Phase 7: 1 set of 4 + 1 run of 4

Phase 8: 10 even or odd cards

Phase 9: 1 set of 4 + 1 run of 6

Phase 10: 1 set of 5 + 1 run of 4

Stage 10 disco fever:

Phase 1: 1 odd or even out of 8

Stage 2: 1 odd or even out of 9

Phase 3: 1 color run of 3 + 2 sets of 2

Phase 4: 7 of a suit

Phase 5: 1 color run of 5 + 2 sets of 2

Phase 6: 1 suit even or odd of 3 + 1 suit even or odd of 4

Phase 7: 1 color run of 4 + 1 set of 4

Phase 8: 1 color run of 4 + 3 sets of 2

Phase 9: 1 run of 3 reps + 2 sets of 3 reps

Phase 10: 1 run of 3 + 1 set of 4 + 1 set of 3

Stage 10 Cupcake Lounge:

Phase 1: 3 of a suit + 3 of a suit + 4 of a suit

Phase 2: 1 color run of 3 + 2 sets of 2

Phase 3: 7 of a suit

Phase 4: 2 sets of 3

Stage 5: 1 set of 4 + 1 set of 2

Stage 6: 1 set of 5

Phase 7: 2 suits odd or even out of 4

Stage 8: 1 run of 9

Phase 9: 1 color run of 5 + 2 sets of 2

Phase 10: 1 color run of 6 + 1 set of 2

Stage 10 Candy Castle / Mountain Vista:

Phase 1: 1 run of 3 reps + 3 sets of 2 reps

Phase 2: 1 run of 8

Phase 3: 1 run of 9

Phase 4: 1 color run of 3 + 1 set of 3

Phase 5: 1 set of 2 + 2 sets of 3

Stage 6: 1 set of 2 + 1 set of 3 + 1 set of 4

Phase 7: 4 of a suit + 6 of a suit

Phase 8: 5 of a suit + 5 of a suit

Phase 9: 1 run of 5 reps + 1 set of 3 reps + 1 set of 2 reps

Phase 10: 1 run of 3 + 1 set of 4 + 1 set of 3

Stage 10 Prehistoric Valley:

Phase 1: 1 odd or even out of 9

Stage 2: 1 odd or even out of 10

Phase 3: 1 run of 8

Stage 4: 1 run out of 10

Phase 5: 2 sets of 3

Phase 6: 2 sets of 4

Phase 7: 1 color run of 4

Phase 8: 1 color run of 3 + 3 of one color

Phase 9: 1 set of 3 + 1 run of 4

Phase 10: 1 set of 4 + 1 run of 6

Stage 10 Moonlight Drive In:

Stage 1: 1 set of 4 + 1 set of 2

Phase 2: 2 sets of 3

Phase 3: 1 run of 7

Phase 4: 1 run of 8

Phase 5: 1 set of 2 + 2 sets of 3

Stage 6: 1 set of 5

Stage 7: 1 run of 9

Phase 8: 1 run of 6 reps + 2 sets of 2 reps

Phase 9: 1 run of 8 + 1 set of 2

Phase 10: 1 set of 4 + 1 run of 6

Stage 10 Ancient Greece:

Phase 1: 1 set of 2 + 1 run of 6

Stage 2: 1 odd or even out of 9

Stage 3: 1 odd or even out of 10

Phase 4: 1 color run of 3 + 1 set of 3

Phase 5: 1 set of 3 + 1 run of 5

Phase 6: 1 set of 5 + 1 run of 4

Phase 7: 1 color run of 5

Phase 8: 1 suit even or odd of 3 + 1 suit even or odd of 5

Phase 9: 5 sets of 2

Phase 10: 2 sets of 3 + 2 sets of 2

Phase 10 Jazz Club:

Phase 1: 1 odd or even out of 8

Phase 2: 1 color run of 3 + 1 set of 3

Phase 3: 1 odd or even out of 9

Phase 4: 1 color run of 4

Stage 5: 1 odd or even out of 10

Phase 6: 1 color run of 5

Phase 7: 1 suit odd or even out of 5

Phase 8: 1 color run of 5 + 1 set of 2

Phase 9: 1 suit odd or even out of 6

Phase 10: 1 color run of 5 + 3 of one color

Phase 10 Vintage Gas Station:

Phase 1: 1 set of 3 + 1 run of 5

Phase 2: 1 run of 4 + 1 set of 3 + 1 set of 2

Phase 3: 1 run of 3 reps + 1 set of 3 reps + 2 sets of 2 reps

Phase 4: 1 color run of 4

Phase 5: 1 color run of 4 + 1 set of 2

Phase 6: 1 color run of 4 + 2 sets of 2

Phase 7: 1 set of 5 + 1 run of 4

Phase 8: 1 suit odd or even out of 5

Phase 9: 1 suit odd or even out of 6

Phase 10: 1 color run of 3 + 3 of one color + 1 set of 2

Phase 10 Ocean Reef:

Phase 1: 1 run of 7

Stage 2: 1 set of 4 + 1 set of 3

Phase 3: 1 color run of 5 + 1 set of 2

Stage 4: 1 odd or even out of 10

Phase 5: 2 runs of 5

Phase 6: 3 sets of 3

Phase 7: 1 color run of 4 + 1 set of 3

Phase 8: 1 suit even or odd of 3 + 1 suit even or odd of 4

Phase 9: 1 run of 7 + 1 set of 2

Phase 10: 1 color run of 5 + 1 set of 3

Phase 10 Southwest:

Phase 1: 1 set of 2 + 1 run of 6

Stage 2: 1 odd or even out of 9

Stage 3: 1 odd or even out of 10

Phase 4: 1 color run of 3 + 1 set of 3

Phase 5: 1 set of 3 + 1 run of 5

Phase 6: 1 set of 5 + 1 run of 4

Phase 7: 1 color run of 5

Phase 8: 1 suit even or odd of 3 + 1 suit even or odd of 5

Phase 9: 5 sets of 2

Phase 10: 2 sets of 3 + 2 sets of 2

Phase 10 Okie Circle J:

Phase 1: 5 sets of 2

Phase 2: 1 color run of 10

Phase 3: 1 set of 4 + 1 colored run of 4

Stage 4: 1 odd or even out of 10

Phase 5: 1 run of 3 reps + 1 set of 3 reps + 2 sets of 2 reps

Phase 6: 1 run of 8

Phase 7: 1 set of 5 + 1 run of 5

Phase 8: 1 color run of 8

Phase 9: 1 suit even or odd of 8 + 1 set of 2

Phase 10: 2 sets of 2 of the same suit + 1 set of 2 + 1 joker + 1 suit series of 3

COLOR CHANGING PHASE Sequence of 9 changing colors 1 Red & Blue 2 YOU CHOOSE 3 Green & Yellow 4 YOU CHOOSE 5 Red & Yellow 6 YOU CHOOSE 7 Green & Blue 8 YOU CHOOSE 9 Green & Red 10 YOU CHOOSE 11 Blue & Yellow

Stage 10 Custom

Phase 1: run of 4, set of 3, set of 2

Floating variation[ edit ]

A variation of the game is to allow floating. Instead of discarding their last card, a player draws a card and then plays all of the cards in their hand without discarding. This is known as “floating” going out. Because the player must be able to discard a card to actually end the hand, other players now have at least one extra turn to go out themselves, or at least improve their score. In addition, a “floating” player must draw and play a card if possible, and draw the top card from the discard pile if it can be played. hence the floating player may be forced to play on his next turn instead of drawing and discarding. The floating player can also be jumped over normally. If someone else goes out before the “floater,” the floater gets a zero score, but doesn’t technically win the hand.

The strategic value of hovering is that the person immediately ahead of the hovering player is generally forced to try to “keep him afloat” for at least a few turns, either by discarding cards that the hovering player picks up and must play, or by skipping the swimmer. This generally puts the player in front of the floater at a disadvantage compared to the other players and makes that player less likely to be able to end their phase if they haven’t already. Players can use this strategy to “allie” with a player. The player after them swims, forcing the player to try to keep them afloat while all other players have a number of extra moves to try to lay down their phase or run out. Of course, the player in front of the floater isn’t really forced to keep it afloat, and may run out themselves, surrender their phase (thereby drastically reducing their score for the hand), or simply surrender the hand by allowing the floater to draw (the drawn card is probably a non-playable, i.e. discardable card).

When a player is floating and there is no possible card to discard or draw to prevent that player from discarding, they are known as “Floating Dead”. It is very likely that the floating player will be forced to end the hand on their next turn. This is rare and usually happens when the floating player completes a phase with a long line of cards, no one else has completed their phase, and the floating player’s line has expanded to all 12 stats. If no one else can put down a beatable phase that turn, only another player who plays a skip or the floater who draws a skip keeps the hand going, and only four exist in the deck.

Alternative wildcard deal-up method [ edit ]

At the beginning of the hand, if the dealer flips a wild card to start the discard pile, the dealer decides who gets the wild card instead of automatically going to the player to the left of the dealer. The recipient of the wild card selects a card from their hand to discard (the card cannot be a skip) and play then continues with the player to the dealer’s left (or, if that player was dealt the wild card, the next player left after them). This slightly reduces the element of luck inherent in the game and increases the strategic and/or social element.

A similar rule applies in the event that a Skip card is the first card dealt.

Alternate wildcard rule[ edit ]

A “wild” card can be played as a “skip” card. (Truly Wild) This method was popularized by Laurel Ross in 2007.

Master’s Edition[edit]

The Masters Edition of the game can be played by two to four players and includes additional rules:

The ability to choose which phase to attempt (not necessarily in numerical order) based on the cards dealt to the player. Players must verbally explain what phase they are attempting during the hand after the cards have been dealt.

The ability to set aside (or keep) one card per hand. (Note: you cannot save your Going Out discard.)

The ability to draw one card from their storage deck per turn.

The Masters Edition includes 10 phase cards for each player to keep track of the phases they have completed during the game. The Masters Edition also includes only two Skip maps instead of the four included in the original edition. This makes the playable number of cards 106, plus the forty phase cards, for a total of 146 cards in the box. (An alternative method of keeping track of the played phases for each player to using ace through ten of a suit in regular playing cards.)

Masters Edition variant #1 [ edit ]

Same rules as Masters Edition, except the player specifies which phase they are completing when setting the phase.

Masters Edition Variant #2 [ edit ]

Same rules as Masters Edition except;

The player declares which phase they are completing when they determine the phase.

After the player discards the phase and hits the other players, they can (if they wish) discard their currently discarded phase, perform the normal discard or save, and bring their hand back to ten by drawing from the draw pile and on the next turn can work on a new phase. (must be placed in the same turn as the phase and cannot be performed if the player discards their last card)

In Anti-Phase you must complete your phase to stay in your current phase, if you don’t complete your phase you move down one phase.

Antiphase for others[ edit ]

In the antiphase for others, one rule card remains in the deck and is discarded as the last card. Then you can name who moves down a stage… if it gets stuck in your hand at the end of the hand, move down a stage. It can also be discarded face down, but can be picked up by the next player who can draw from the stack.

Phase 10 Dice [ edit ]

Phase 10 Dice is a phase 10 inspired dice game also published by Fundex Games. The goal is the same, try to complete stages 1-10 in order. Instead of cards, players take turns rolling 10 six-sided dice, 6 of which are marked 5-10 and the other four are marked 1-4, each with two wilds. Each turn, the player rolls all 10 dice, then may set any of them aside and reroll the rest up to twice, for a total of three rolls. When they complete a phase, the total of the dice used in that phase is added to their score and in the next round they move on to a new phase. As in the card game, failing a set means you have to try again in the next turn, and the game ends once one player completes phase 10.[3]

Phase 10 twist[edit]

The goal of Phase 10 Twist is to be the first player to complete Phase 10 by moving around the game board. Each player starts with his character in phase 1 on the game board. You must complete Phase 1 to move your character. There are three pawn movements; Move 3 spaces if you complete the phase and discard all your cards, move 2 spaces if you complete the phase but don’t discard all your cards, or move 1 space if you don’t complete the phase. If you land in a Twist Phase, you can choose to play a Twist Phase or one of the phases on either side of the Twist Phase field. When you play a twist phase, the pawn moves change to 6 squares if you complete the phase and discard all your cards, 4 if you complete the phase but don’t discard all your cards, or move back one square if You don’t complete the phase.[4]

Postal regulations [ edit ]

The postal rules follow the standard phase 10 rules with two additions: 1) No player can go out (play all 10 cards), thereby ending the hand, until play has completed a round around the table and play has returned to the dealer, whether or not someone was skipped. The dealer is the first player to end the hand by playing all 10 of their cards. 2) Players working to complete any of the first seven phases may use the number card corresponding to the phase they are working to complete as a wild card. For example, ones are wild for all players during the first hand. During the second hand, deuces are wild for players who completed phase one in the previous hand, while ones remain wild for any player who did not complete phase one. This adds the challenge of remembering the wild card of the person to your left to avoid discarding cards that are wild for them but not for you. This variant is called Postal Rules in honor of the group of postal workers who have played Phase 10 every day during their lunch break since 1996.

Mobile [edit]

In 2007, Fundex and Magmic signed an agreement that brought Phase 10 to BlackBerry devices.[5] In 2009, Magmic released the title for iOS,[6] with an in-app purchase of the Masters Edition available for download in February 2012.[7] In March 2012, Magmic released both a free and paid version of Phase 10 for Android devices. The Google Play Store also has a Scorekeeper app for Phase 10. In September 2013, Magmic released Phase 10 Dice on the iTunes App Store.[8] In 2019, Mattel163 Limited released Phase 10: World Tour for Android and iOS featuring the “Journey” mode in which the player travels to different worlds and completes levels by completing sets of unique different phases with opponents of different difficulty. The game also introduces multiplayer, where players can play with others from all over the world by spending “coins” and earning more coins when they win, similar to the coin system in UNO!, another game by Mattel163.

Special cards [ edit ]

Wild: A “wild” card can be used in place of a number card and can be used in any suit to complete each phase. Original editions of Phase 10 had two wilds in each suit; To avoid confusion, current editions use black wilds. More than one wild card can be used to complete a phase. Players can use as many “wild” cards as they like as long as they use a natural card. Once a “wild” card has been played in a phase, it cannot be replaced with the intended card and used elsewhere. It must remain that card until the hand is over. If the dealer starts the discard pile with a “wild” card, the card may be taken by the first player.

Skip: Skip cards have only one purpose: to cause another player to lose a turn. To use them, a player discards the Skip card on their turn and chooses the player who loses a turn. When a “Skip” card is drawn, it can be discarded immediately or kept for a later turn. A “Skip” card may never be picked up from the discard pile. A “Skip” card cannot be used to complete a phase, including phase 8 (seven cards of one suit). The original editions of Phase 10 contained blue skip cards, causing confusion with regular blue cards in the deck; Skip cards are now black in current editions. The next player playing after you cannot be skipped, but any player in front of you can be skipped. A player cannot be skipped twice in the same round; They must have their turn in the round before they are skipped again. (They can be skipped twice in a row, but not until they miss their turn.) If the first card to start the discard pile is a “Skip” card, the first player’s turn is skipped. [9]

Skip cards have only one purpose: to cause another player to lose a turn. To use them, a player discards the Skip card on their turn and chooses the player who loses a turn.

Notes [edit]

References[edit]

Mattel163 announced that Phase 10: World Tour is now available worldwide on iPhone, Android and Facebook. Like UNO! Mobile ahead, Phase 10: World Tour offers exciting new twists on a classic family card game and brings it to digital platforms for even more fans to enjoy.

Phase 10: World Tour features 30 unique levels set in the Amazon jungle for players to puzzle through, in addition to multiplayer stages set in legendary locations such as Hawaii, London, the Arctic, the Nile and Japan. No Phase 10 experience would be complete without the classic 10-phase throwdown that was included at launch.

Phase 10: World Tour is released worldwide as Mattel163’s debut title, UNO! Mobile gears up for an action-packed October update. The update brings a special Halloween event with exciting new prizes, the new Wild Trick rule and more.

“The widespread success of UNO! Mobile has been amazing – over 85 million players since launch in January. We look forward to building on the successes of UNO! Mobile featuring our second title, Phase 10: World Tour, as well as other Mattel-branded titles in development to come. It’s an exciting time for our studio,” said Amy Huang, CEO of Mattel163.

With 85 million players, there are many people screaming UNO digital. 1,350,465,612 times to be exact. It also results in a little over a billion + 4 cards being challenged.

Introducing Phase 10: World Tour!

The computer deals several awake-and-skip cards to the other players in order to be able to go down in the first draw. However, you get very few unless you buy them and they then steal them back, so it’s a no-win situation. Your computer players will sear you!

show more

Phase 10 is a card game by Fundex for two to six players. Players compete to complete 10 consecutive stages, with the first player to complete “Stage 10” being the winner. The card game was also converted into a dice game. You can read the dice game rules for phase 10 under “How to play?”.

Phase 10 card game content

24 x red cards (two each from 1 to 12)

24 x Blue Cards (two each from 1 to 12)

24 x yellow cards (two each from 1 to 12)

24 x Green Cards (two each from 1 to 12)

4 x Blue Skip Cards

8 x “Wild” cards (two of each suit)

108 cards in total

The dealer

Choose a dealer and let him shuffle the deck. Deal 10 cards to each player, then place the remaining cards in the center of the table. This is the draw pile.

Turn over the top card of the deck and place it next to the draw pile to form the discard pile.

The game begins to the left of the dealer.

Wild Cards and Skip Cards

Wildcards can be used in place of any number or color. You can use any number of jokers to complete stages, as long as you have at least one “natural” card in the group. Wild cards cannot be substituted for the card they represent and moved to a different group of cards during your hand. If there is a wild card on top of the discard pile at the beginning of the game, it can be picked up.

Skipping cards will result in another player losing their turn (think Uno). Skip cards cannot be used as part of a phase and they cannot be picked up from the discard pile. If the dealer starts the discard pile with a skip card, the first player is skipped. To play a Skip card, simply discard it from your hand and onto the discard pile. The next player is skipped. Otherwise, play continues around the board as usual.

Sets, runs and flushes

Runs consist of four or more cards in numerical order. The cards do not have to be of the same suit. Wildcards can be used to complete runs.

Sets consist of two or more cards with the same number. Sets can contain numbers of any color.

Flushes, or “All One Color” as they are called in the official rules, are formed by having a group of cards of the same suit. Wild cards can be used as part of flushes. Cards may or may not be in numerical order.

Phase 10 phases

Phase 1: 2 sets of 3

Phase 2: 1 set of 3 and 1 run of 4

Phase 3: 1 set of 4 and 1 run of 4

Phase 4: 1 run of 7

Phase 5: 1 run of 8

Stage 6: 1 run of 9

Phase 7: 2 sets of 4

Phase 8: 7 cards of one suit (flush)

Phase 9: 1 set of 5 and 1 set of 2

Phase 10: 1 set of 5 and 1 set of 3

playing style

Players draw a card from either the deck or the top of the discard pile at the start of their turn. At the end of their turn, they must discard a single card.

final stages

Players must complete phases in numerical order, and only one phase may be completed in a round. If you can fully complete the requirements of the stage, you can place it on the board. Also, you may play additional cards while playing the phase if they fit into the phase. For example, if you completed phase 1 “2 sets of 3”, you could play three 4’s and three 6’s. You could play additional fours or sixes as part of your sets, but you could not add another set.

Hit

After you create a stage, players can “hit” other stages in the game. The cards you add to completed phases must fit the phase, and you can only capture after your own phase is in play.

end round

Players end the round by playing all the cards from their hand. The player who goes out first wins the hand and receives zero points. The rest of the players score (scores are bad). Players who have completed their phase advance to the next phase. All players who failed to complete their phase during the round must attempt to complete it again in the next round.

Score goals and win

Players who still have cards in hand at the end of the round score points.

5 points per card numbered 1-9

10 points for cards numbered 10-12

15 points for “Skip” cards

25 points for “wild” cards

As you accumulate points, don’t sweat too much. They are only meant to break ties as the player who completes stage 10 is the winner. Points only come into play when two or more players complete Stage 10 in the same hand. In this case, the player with the fewest points wins.

In the rare event that the winning players have the same score, they repeat stage 10, with the first player to leave the field being declared the winner.

It was an interesting place and I was really surprised. Thanks to the world! Thank you for sharing. To edit!. I’m not walking away from the one that amazingly makes me laugh with a Times and a Times still in it. When the strongest player goes through this. You are a year old man! I think it would have the most important clue to your point. You don’t need it to have your own personal experience which isn’t a bit too bad and then you don’t need it again and have some money you don’t want and then go and have a play time with yours Sharing team and much better and you will never have any problems and some of the ones I played with have no problem. The point was a problem of it. Even if the world has the most common in their country. Also the game and not being a few more than one is amazing and then the one who has to make them is still in their life and the other one goes out into the world for it and a good way of doing that is making a few more fun things about the game. Do you know the game?? And? And you will get the world for doing the same. Edit for the most powerful word of it! Also, the fact is much less of an interesting question

Phase 10 is a card game by Fundex for two to six players. Players compete to complete 10 consecutive stages, with the first player to complete “Stage 10” being the winner. The card game was also converted into a dice game. You can read the dice game rules for phase 10 under “How to play?”.

Phase 10 card game content

24 x red cards (two each from 1 to 12)

24 x Blue Cards (two each from 1 to 12)

24 x yellow cards (two each from 1 to 12)

24 x Green Cards (two each from 1 to 12)

4 x Blue Skip Cards

8 x “Wild” cards (two of each suit)

108 cards in total

The dealer

Choose a dealer and let him shuffle the deck. Deal 10 cards to each player, then place the remaining cards in the center of the table. This is the draw pile.

Turn over the top card of the deck and place it next to the draw pile to form the discard pile.

The game begins to the left of the dealer.

Wild Cards and Skip Cards

Wildcards can be used in place of any number or color. You can use any number of jokers to complete stages, as long as you have at least one “natural” card in the group. Wild cards cannot be substituted for the card they represent and moved to a different group of cards during your hand. If there is a wild card on top of the discard pile at the beginning of the game, it can be picked up.

Skipping cards will result in another player losing their turn (think Uno). Skip cards cannot be used as part of a phase and they cannot be picked up from the discard pile. If the dealer starts the discard pile with a skip card, the first player is skipped. To play a Skip card, simply discard it from your hand and onto the discard pile. The next player is skipped. Otherwise, play continues around the board as usual.

Sets, runs and flushes

Runs consist of four or more cards in numerical order. The cards do not have to be of the same suit. Wildcards can be used to complete runs.

Sets consist of two or more cards with the same number. Sets can contain numbers of any color.

Flushes, or “All One Color” as they are called in the official rules, are formed by having a group of cards of the same suit. Wild cards can be used as part of flushes. Cards may or may not be in numerical order.

Phase 10 phases

Phase 1: 2 sets of 3

Phase 2: 1 set of 3 and 1 run of 4

Phase 3: 1 set of 4 and 1 run of 4

Phase 4: 1 run of 7

Phase 5: 1 run of 8

Stage 6: 1 run of 9

Phase 7: 2 sets of 4

Phase 8: 7 cards of one suit (flush)

Phase 9: 1 set of 5 and 1 set of 2

Phase 10: 1 set of 5 and 1 set of 3

playing style

Players draw a card from either the deck or the top of the discard pile at the start of their turn. At the end of their turn, they must discard a single card.

final stages

Players must complete phases in numerical order, and only one phase may be completed in a round. If you can fully complete the requirements of the stage, you can place it on the board. Also, you may play additional cards while playing the phase if they fit into the phase. For example, if you completed phase 1 “2 sets of 3”, you could play three 4’s and three 6’s. You could play additional fours or sixes as part of your sets, but you could not add another set.

Hit

After you create a stage, players can “hit” other stages in the game. The cards you add to completed phases must fit the phase, and you can only capture after your own phase is in play.

end round

Players end the round by playing all the cards from their hand. The player who goes out first wins the hand and receives zero points. The rest of the players score (scores are bad). Players who have completed their phase advance to the next phase. All players who failed to complete their phase during the round must attempt to complete it again in the next round.

Score goals and win

Players who still have cards in hand at the end of the round score points.

5 points per card numbered 1-9

10 points for cards numbered 10-12

15 points for “Skip” cards

25 points for “wild” cards

As you accumulate points, don’t sweat too much. They are only meant to break ties as the player who completes stage 10 is the winner. Points only come into play when two or more players complete Stage 10 in the same hand. In this case, the player with the fewest points wins.

In the rare event that the winning players have the same score, they repeat stage 10, with the first player to leave the field being declared the winner.

Released back in 1982, Phase 10 is one of those games that kind of surprises you at how popular it actually is. I’ve never really thought of Phase 10 as a popular card game, and yet the game still sells well despite being over thirty years old. Phase 10 seems to be one of those types of games that some people really hate while others really enjoy. Having never played phase 10, I decided it was time to try the game and see for yourself. While Phase 10 has a lot of issues, it’s a decent game if you’re looking for some mindless fun.

How to play stage 10

configuration

Shuffle all the cards and deal ten to each player. The remaining cards form the draw pile. The top card of the draw pile is turned over and placed next to the draw pile to form the discard pile. The player to the left of the dealer starts the round.

play the game

A player begins his turn by drawing a card. You can either take the top card from the draw or discard pile. After looking through his cards, the player chooses one of his cards to discard.

In each hand, players try to complete their current phase. All players start in phase one and advance to the next phase if they can complete their current phase before the end of the hand. The ten phases in Phase 10 are as follows:

Two sets of three A set of three and a set of four A set of four and a set of four A set of seven A set of eight A set of nine Two sets of four Seven cards of the same suit A set of five and one Set of twos -Set A set of 5 and a set of 3

Sets refer to cards with the same number, so a set of three would be three cards with the same number. A run is a group of cards in numerical order, so a run of four could be 2, 3, 4, 5. When a player has a joker, it can represent any number or suit to complete a set, run, or group of cards of the same suit.

When a Skip card is discarded, the player who discarded it determines whose next turn is skipped. A second skip card cannot be played against a player before the player’s first turn has been skipped. Neither player can take a Skip card from the discard pile.

When a player completes their phase, the player may discard any cards used to complete the phase. The player may also discard additional cards along with his phase if they can be added to the cards already in phase. For example, if a player has a set of fives, the player can play additional fives to their phase. The player can also add numbers to the beginning or end of a row or add additional cards to a group of cards of the same suit.

After a player commits a phase, they cannot attempt to complete the next phase. Instead, the player will try to get rid of the rest of the cards in their hand. Once a player has determined his phase, he may add one or more cards to his own phase or to a phase played by another player per turn. A player can add the same number to a set, add a number above or below a row, or add a card of the same suit to a suit group.

The hand ends when a player gets rid of the last card in their hand. This player won the hand. The other players score points for each card they have left in their hands.

5 points for the numbers 1-9

10 points for the numbers 10-12

15 points for jumps

25 points for wilds

Then another hand is played. All cards are shuffled and dealt to the players. Each player who has completed their phase advances to the next phase for the next hand.

the end of the game

The game ends when one player has completed all ten phases. If two or more players complete all ten phases in the same hand, the player with the fewest points wins the game.

My thoughts on phase 10

If you look at the gameplay of Phase 10, it plays similarly to most simple card games. The goal of the game is to complete your current phase for the round. These stages include getting sets of the same number, getting a certain number of cards in a row, or getting a certain number of cards of a certain suit. Each player’s turn is really simple as you draw a card and then discard a card. When a player completes their phase, they attempt to get rid of the rest of their cards to avoid scoring while preventing other players from completing their phases.

Since Phase 10 is a simple card game, it is not surprising that the game does not contain much strategy. Most of the time, each player just focuses on completing their own stages. Players basically only make two decisions per round. First they have to decide whether they want the top card from the discard pile or the top card from the draw pile. This is usually pretty obvious since the only reason to take the top card from the discard pile is so that it helps you.

The other decision a player must make each turn is which card to discard. This is actually the only part of the game that actually has any real strategy. Usually the decision is pretty obvious since you can get rid of a card that you won’t be using to complete your own set. Some strategy comes into play when considering what cards the player next to you is collecting. They don’t want to discard cards that they could use to complete their phase. However, at the beginning of a hand you have no idea what the other players are collecting, so you can only guess which card is best to discard. Later in a hand, however, you may be able to use your prior knowledge to decide which card is best to get rid of.

Aside from stealing a card from your neighbor that they need, there are a few other things to consider before discarding a card. If you care about your score (which is only used as a tiebreaker), you probably need to consider dropping cards that are worth more points. You also need to consider if the card could be played into another player’s phase after you complete your phase. If you have a card to add to the cards already played in front of another player, consider keeping the card as it is much easier to get rid of.

While there are some easy choices in the game, like many of these types of card games, Phase 10 relies heavily on luck. If you draw the right cards or let the player next to you discard needed cards, you have a better chance of winning the game. Basically, your decisions are more about not making a mistake and helping another player than helping yourself. The self-help decisions are usually so obvious that they don’t have much impact on the game.

Without a doubt, the biggest problem with Phase 10 is the fact that the game is far too long. Simple card games like this one would be expected to last maybe 20-30 minutes. Phase 10 games will likely last at least 90 minutes, and that’s generous. With four or more players, I could easily imagine the game lasting two hours. It’s ridiculous that such a simple card game should take so long. After about thirty minutes you start wishing the game was over, and most people would just quit at that point.

Why is the game taking so long? Each hand is usually fairly short, only lasting a few minutes, with the later hands lasting slightly longer. The problem arises from the fact that you have to play so many rounds in the game. If you follow the normal game rules, you must play at least ten rounds. Good luck the game ever ending after ten rounds. For the game to end after ten rounds, a player must somehow complete their phase in each hand. That has almost no chance. Most likely you will need to play a minimum of 15-20 rounds up to a maximum of 60 rounds if playing with six players.

Under the normal rules I can never recommend playing phase 10 as I find it difficult for someone to want to play the game for 90 minutes. If I ever played the game again, I’d have to use some kind of variant/house rule to shorten the game. The designers must have known that the game had a length problem, so some different rules were added. The first variant consists of playing a certain number of hands and the player with the fewest points wins the game. I don’t think this would be very satisfying since the goal of the game is to get to the final stage. With the other two variants, some phases are omitted. I haven’t tried any of these variants but I think you must use one of them as 10 stages is too many. To be honest, I think the game would have been better if the main game only had five or six stages. The game could then have had a different rule to add the extra phases if the players wanted to play a longer game.

When it comes to variant rules, I would like to go into the point system. Before playing the game, I knew it would take a long time, so I decided to add a different rule that completely abandons the scoring system. I figured it wasn’t worth the effort to keep the goal if it was only going to be used as a tiebreaker. While this does away with the tiebreaker system, it speeds up the game in a few ways. First, you don’t have to take the time to count the points after each round. Eliminating the scoring system also allows you to end some rounds early, as there is no point in continuing the hand if all players have already completed their phase. The third unintended way of speeding up the game is that it encourages players who are eliminated to work together because the sooner one of them is eliminated, the lower the chances of another player to complete their stage.

However, the abolition of the rating system has some disadvantages. Without scoring, some of the strategy is eliminated since there isn’t as much incentive to be the first player to get rid of all of your cards. You don’t have to worry about keeping valuable cards because they won’t harm you. I can see this having an impact on how people will play the game. Instead of trying to run out to avoid points, the only reason to try to get rid of all your cards is to prevent other players from completing their stage. When you’re done with your phase, it doesn’t matter if you or another player gets rid of the remaining cards from their hand.

The biggest potential downside is the fact that you lose the tiebreaker, leaving you with the possibility of a tie at the end of the game. At first I thought it was very unlikely that this would ever happen. With ten stages, I found it unlikely that two players would be in the last stage at the same time. Even if they were, it would be unlikely that both players would complete their final phase in the same hand. When the players started to take the lead in the game, I was convinced that the goal wouldn’t matter. However, Phase 10 has a significant catch-up mechanic built in. If a player falls behind early, they can probably catch up fairly easily since later stages are much more difficult than earlier stages. The players who fall behind can catch up fairly quickly as they can complete much easier stages than the other players. In the game we played against a player who fell three or four stages behind and ended up catching up so much that he was still in the running until the end. While I still think it’s not that likely that two players will end up tied and force the tiebreaker to be used, I think it will happen more often than you think.

Another issue with Phase 10 is the fact that the components are just plain boring. I’ll give some credit to phase 10 as it has a lot of cards. There are over 100 cards in the game, so you should never have a hand that might require you to reshuffle the cards. In the game I played, we never ran out of cards anywhere near. However, apart from the number of maps, there isn’t much about Phase 10’s components. The map design is just plain boring. The cards basically just contain numbers with a little bit of color to indicate the suit of each card. I can see that color blind people have some issues with phase 10. I don’t expect these types of games to have great component quality, but I think a little more effort could have been put into making the maps more visually appealing.

So I spent a lot of this review talking about the negative aspects of Phase 10. These complaints are valid in my opinion as the game has many problems. At the same time, I don’t think the game deserves all the hate it’s getting. Phase 10 was not designed to be a highly strategic game. It should be a card game that anyone can play and that doesn’t require much thought, similar to UNO. These types of games are far from my favorites, but I don’t mind playing them from time to time. Phase 10 is like many of these types of games. While UNO is a better game, people who like UNO might also like Phase 10. Basically, I see Phase 10 as the kind of game where you can just sit and play to distract yourself from your daily life. There are way better games out there, but it’s a good waste of time.

Should You Buy Phase 10?

Phase 10 is the perfect example of an average to below average game in my opinion. The game has many problems. The biggest problem is that the game takes way too long. Stage 10 lasts two to three times as long as it should. It’s so long that I would never play the game with the official rules. The game just takes so long that it gets boring after about half an hour. They really need to implement some kind of derogation rule to make the game length more manageable. Phase 10 doesn’t have much strategy either and relies quite heavily on luck as the players who get the right cards at the right time will win. Despite all that, Phase 10 isn’t a terrible game. It works well as a game that’s easy to pick up and play without having to think too much about what you’re doing. If you don’t mind mindless games, you can have fun with Phase 10.

If you’re looking for strategy or don’t want to mess with house rules to shorten the game, Phase 10 is definitely not for you. However, if you don’t mind the occasional mindless deck, Phase 10 may bring you some enjoyment. With the game spreading, it shouldn’t be that difficult to find a cheap copy.

If you want to buy Phase 10 you can find it online: Amazon

10 phases

Contributed by Aaron Barnhart

This game is inspired by Phase 10, a commercial version of Contract Rummy, but played with regular playing cards.

For every 2 players you need: 2 standard cards with 52 cards + 204 jokers

So for 4 players you need: 420 standard decks + 208 jokers

At the start, each player deals 10 cards and reveals one card. The goal of the game is to complete each “phase”. The 10 phases are:

1 set of 3 + 1 run of 3 1 set of 3 + 1 run of 4 2 sets of 3 runs of 6 runs of 7 runs of 8 8 cards of one suit (red or black) 2 flushes of four cards (example is 4, 5,6,9 hearts & 2,6,10,J spades) 5 cards of one suit + 3 of another suit 5 cards of one suit + 4 other suits

[Remarks:

A “set” is a collection of cards of the same rank; Suits are irrelevant.

A “run” is a set of consecutive ranked cards. Ace is always low, and in this game runs can be of mixed suits.]

Everyone starts with the first phase. When it is your turn, you can either draw a card from the deck or take the top card from the discard pile. In either case, at the end of your turn, discard any card you like, but remember that the next player can take it. Jokers count as wilds and can be any color, suit or number. Once you have all the cards needed to complete a phase (e.g. your hand could have 6,6,6 and 7,8,9 in phase 1) you can discard them when it is your turn to act. That’s called going under. Once you are “down” you can play your remaining cards onto your “down” cards or those of other players. Remember: the stages are the minimum requirements to go down. All 10 cards of a color may lie on 8 cards of a color.

Going Out: Once you’re down, you can “go out” at any time by getting rid of all the cards in your hand. This can be done by discarding or by playing all your cards to other players. All who went down that round advance to the next phase, while those who didn’t go down remain in the same phase. All cards remaining in the player’s hands are accumulated to their total points (you don’t want points). The rating system is simple:

Cards between 1-9 5 points 10,J,Q,K 10 points Joker 25 points

Completing the Game: The game is over when one player successfully completes the last phase and is declared the winner. BUT if two people both go down in the 10th stage, their score comes into play. The person with the lowest score wins. In case of a tie, all tied players play the tenth phase again, the one who ties out wins.

Determining Places: To determine who took 1st, 2nd, etc. place, go by the stage they completed first and then by the score. Here is an example:

Name Final Stage Complete Score Bob 7,465 Jack 6,480 Sarah 10,250 Dillon 6,440

In this example, the winner was Sarah. Second was Bob. With Jack and Dillon tied in the last completed stage, Dillon finishes third due to his lower score.

Frequently asked Questions:

Q: I have 6 cards with the same number, can I use them as my 2 sets of three?

A: Yes.

Q: When someone goes out, do the down cards count as any points?

On a.

Q: Are aces high or low?

A: They are low because in the Stage 10 deck, an ace is replaced by a one.

Q: So I can’t have a Queen, King, Ace run?

A: That’s basically what I just said.