Pike Fishing With Smelt? The 13 New Answer

The fish counter in the supermarket has a selection of fish that can be used as deadbait for pike. Luckily, pike will eat almost anything that is fishy, ​​so there is a good range of deadbaits no matter what is on offer. Here I cover my top 3 pike baits from the supermarket!

*Although I am an occasional carp fisherman, I fish for both pike and perch as well as carp. There are some underwater pike videos and tips that you can find here on my YouTube channel.

Top 3 dead pike baits from supermarkets

1 – sprats! Best for short distances

Sprats are small oily silverfish that make fantastic dead pike bait – mainly because they look like a small roach. These are really cheap to buy at any supermarket fish counter and they usually come pre packed for around £2 which will set you back over 15 sprats. You can freeze them and then pull them out when you need them so you don’t always have to have fresh fish. I usually have a few packs in the freezer when I go.

They can be fished as bait on a regular running rig and are also useful for wobbling tactics.

I ranked them as the best for close range fishing as they are a bit of a hassle to hook and cast. Their skin isn’t as tough as, say, mackerel, and they can fly away if you launch them properly. I find it best to hook them by the lip and then the tail and try to throw them lightly if possible rather than flying them a long distance.

Here’s what they look like underwater – These are some free quotes in a clear spot I made while filming some pike – video on YouTube here)

If you want to add some appeal to the water sprats, you can slice them open to let out more oils, or chop and puree to really release a powerful scent in the water. Chop them widthwise and then mash them. You only have to do this with 2 or 3 to get a great aroma around your place.

2 – Mackerel Fillet – Best for long distances

Mackerel come in a variety of formats from the supermarket, from the whole fish to the whole body to the fillets. My pick of these are the fillets, they’re really easy to use and I have no trouble throwing them a decent distance. They have produced a lot of pike for me and are my favorite casting bait. Again, I usually have a few packs of these in the freezer.

You can fish with them frozen as they thaw in the water, but I prefer to thaw them in the fridge overnight before a session. On bank I trim them to a triangle shape about 5cm larger than my treble and cast that out. I find the triangle shape gets me more bites than others, I think as it’s more of a fish shape. If you are after bigger pike you can use larger treble hooks and adjust this size if necessary.

You can buy them fresh at the fish counter or frozen in the freezer island –

This means you can just grab as many as you need before a session.

Here is a recent catch of the mackerel fillets, not a big one but this day got me 9 runs in 4 hours with the loose dead bait. I picked up the mackerel from Tesco on the way to this meeting. I’ve seen a question mark over the quality of supermarket fish vs. the tackle shop in some pike forums. From my experience it’s no different and I have no issues with supermarket baits.

3 – sardines

Sardines are more of a substitute bait for me. Like sprats, these are also a softer bait and are not suitable for constant casting and retrieving. They aren’t the best for jiggling dead baits either, but they do have a few days where they bring me bites and nothing else. Here we pay attention to fresh fish from the fish counter and not to the canned goods!

Shutterstock image

By Mike Gnatkowski

Anglers think of pike as nimble, vicious predators capable of rapid bursts of speed to gobble up hapless prey.

But pikes aren’t past a free lunch either. Pike are opportunistic and actively seek out winter-killed panfish and fish stressed by spawning. Dead bait placed in a pike’s path is considered a light meal.

Pike are often referred to as “water wolves” in reference to their land-based cousins. Wolves are known for their pack mentality and ability to take down large ungulates, but they are also not above preying on animals killed by the road or in winter.

Pikes are not much different. They use carrion when it’s available and take advantage of the gift of protein intake versus calorie output to secure live prey.

In late winter and when there is no ice, it is more difficult to get food. Predators have taken their toll and baitfish numbers have declined due to natural attrition and overwintering. It just makes sense that stressed, less active pike would take advantage of a readily available, readily available food source.

Northerners aren’t opposed to eating just about any dead bait, but soft rays, oily fish, can emit a scent trail that lures pike from afar. Most fish have a highly developed sense of smell, and pike are no exception.

Fish with high oil content such as smelt, herring, alewi, whitefish, menominee, chub and sucker can lure hungry pike from afar. Oily deadbaits are just right in a pike’s wheelhouse when they can stumble upon a scent trail, amble along slowly while following the scent, and then not have to catch it once they find it. In general, 8 to 12 inch lures are best. Bigger baits will get you fewer bites, but the biggest pike prefer big baits.

You’ll need a little planning to secure many of these dead bait species. There are times of the year when spawn-stressed Alewis swim around. I know grocery stores and bait shops that sell frozen smelt. Suction cups are the most readily available deadbaits to use for pike. You can buy them live when there’s a good supply, or catch your own in the spring. Just dry them with a paper towel, then wrap them individually in wax paper so they don’t stick together when they freeze. Let them thaw about halfway before using. Anything you don’t use can be refrozen.

Pike tend to move shallow under the last ice and just after the ice breaks out. Melting ice and incoming runoff make the shallows more hospitable and provide the best hunting grounds. Pike will also use shallow, swampy areas with dark bottom to spawn soon after the ice breaks out. Shallow bays in front of the main lake are always an attraction. Pike migrate upstream under frozen rivers or shortly after setting out, seeking out shallow bays and inlets that have an abundance of suckers and creek chub. Quick strike rigs are the way to go dead bait. You can buy commercially made rigs like Northland Tackle’s Predator rigs. The Predator rigs come in single and twin wire and fluorocarbon hooklengths with enticing Baitfish Image Attractor Blades. You can also make your own seven strand wire using bushings and swivels and either 2/0 or 3/0 treble hooks or circle hooks. Single hooks make releasing fish easier.

Video that may interest you ×

Try to ensure the bait is hanging horizontally by placing one hook just behind the back and one just in front of the tail. Another option is to place one on the back and one under the chin of the bait.

Slammer-type tip-ups work best on ice when using dead baits, and either spinning or baitcast reels with a bait runner feature excel in open water when dead baits are on the bottom or under be fished in a float.

by Jim Martinsen

Mepp’s communications director

Pike, really big trophy pike, make even the most experienced angler’s heart beat faster. And while it’s not common, many pike anglers still manage to land 25-pound wall hangers each season.

Pike are voracious eaters, attacking their next meal with a vengeance that sometimes belies their size. The pike has easily earned the nickname “water wolf”!

Pike seek out the shallow bays and weed beds of the northern lakes year-round. Large pike, however, migrate to deeper water on long, hot summer days.

Many pike fishermen believe that pike stop fishing once the water temperature reaches 65 degrees. Some will even tell you that they lose their teeth in the summer. That is simply not true. Mid summer can be one of the best times of the year to fish for big pike.

Big baits catch big pike. Although Mepps Aglias in sizes #4 & #5 and Mepps Aglia Longs in size #4 are great pike catchers, Mepps Tandem Aglias, Musky Killers, Giant Killers, Mepps Marabous and Musky Marabous can sometimes be a better choice for really big northerners. Big pike seek out weed beds, dense weed beds and the natural bucktail or marabou dressings on these baits coat the sturdy treble hooks so well that these spinners can become virtually weed free.

Keep in mind that large Mepps spinners are heavy baits and require medium to heavy gear. You will need a stiff rod, 14 to 17 pound test line and 9 to 12 inch steel leaders.

Every pike fisherman has caught their share of northern fish from 4 to 10 pounds. Most of these fish are caught in shallow water. Big pike, however, go deep. Often they are in water 15 feet deep or deeper. A large deep running lure is required at these times. Mepps offers four spinners that do this: Mepps Magnum Musky Killers, Tandem Musky & Giant Killers, and the Mepps H210.

Pike are voracious eaters, attacking their next meal with a vengeance that sometimes belies their size. The pike has easily earned the nickname “water wolf”!

Pike seek out the shallow bays and weed beds of the northern lakes year-round. Large pike, however, migrate to deeper water on long, hot summer days.

Many pike fishermen believe that pike stop fishing once the water temperature reaches 65 degrees. Some will even tell you that they lose their teeth in the summer. That is simply not true. Mid summer can be one of the best times of the year to fish for big pike.

Big baits catch big pike. Although Mepps Aglias in sizes #4 & #5 and Mepps Aglia Longs in size #4 are great pike catchers, Mepps Tandem Aglias, Musky Killers, Giant Killers, Mepps Marabous and Musky Marabous can sometimes be a better choice for really big northerners. Big pike seek out weed beds, dense weed beds and the natural bucktail or marabou dressings on these baits coat the sturdy treble hooks so well that these spinners can become virtually weed free.

Keep in mind that large Mepps spinners are heavy baits and require medium to heavy gear. You will need a stiff rod, 14 to 17 pound test line and 9 to 12 inch steel leaders.

Every pike fisherman has caught their share of northern fish from 4 to 10 pounds. Most of these fish are caught in shallow water. Big pike, however, go deep. Often they are in water 15 feet deep or deeper. A large deep running lure is required at these times. Mepps offers four spinners that do this: Mepps Magnum Musky Killers, Tandem Musky & Giant Killers, and the Mepps H210.

Then there’s the #3 Mepps Syclops spoon. It weighs a full ounce and drops deep quickly. If you’re looking for even more weight, try placing two #3 Syclops front to back…you’ve got a brutal lure that weighs a full two ounces. Fish the Syclops deep and slow. It is an excellent “countdown” lure. As soon as it touches the water, start counting. If the bait hits the bottom when you reach ten, start the next retrieve at eight.

If you’re looking for a lighter approach, try towing a Syclops Lite along the edge of a weed bed or tossing it over shallow weeds. If you need more depth, simply attach a Syclops.

Because light transmission is poor when deep fishing, the Syclops is available in a variety of “hot” colors, as well as polished brass and real silver plate. Try platinum lures when fishing in shallow water on cloudy days.

One final tip… Fish weed beds with a #1 (1/2 oz.) Timber Doodle. Before attaching the Mister Twister® Split Double Tail™, hook a shiner or sucker minnow into the bend of the hook. The added scent not only attracts pike, but also any walleye or smallmouth bass that happens to be in the area. Practice catch and release.

The most commonly used bait fishing for pike is without a doubt the running ledger rig. This lure fishing tackle is designed to fish a lure from the bottom of a lake or hole bed. The rig itself consists of a race, a bead, a quick release link, a lead and a wire guide.

In this article, we explain what each component is and how they work together to create this free-running ledger rig with resistance.

terminal tackle

A wire leader is essential when pike fishing to prevent them from biting through the leader. Wire traces should be at least 12 inches to keep the main line away from sharp teeth, and the wire should have a breaking strength of at least 30 pounds.

Wire leaders with two treble hooks are most popular on barbless or semi-barbed hooks. The treble hook closest to the main line is hooked into the bait, usually the root of the tail when using whole dead baits or tail sections, to provide a firm hold and relieve the cast. The top treble hooks slightly under the skin of the bait. This allows the angler to strike out of the bait and get the hooks off the bait to the fish’s mouth on the go. Barbless hooks make unhooking fish much quicker and easier, although semi-barbed treble hooks, where two points are barbless and the third is barbed, can help bait stay on the hook during the cast. The barbed tip hooks into the bait which helps it not come loose easily when cast but means it rarely hooks the fish.

The race runs on the main line, its only job is to reduce drag when a pike picks up a bait and moves with it. Its oversized bore allows the line to move freely through the race.

One race has a small eyelet located below the large hole. This is for attaching a lead clip/weak link. A lead clip is just a small metal clip that allows you to easily attach a lead to the race. However, we recommend testing the breaking strength of these links. You want the ability to disengage from the carabiner if your lead catches on the bottom.

weak link

As we mentioned earlier it is important to have a weak connection between your lead and race, especially when fishing in areas where obstacles may be present. Using a cheap carabiner is an option. However, we have a few alternative methods you could use:

paper clips

Yes, you read that right, they are cheap to chip and can be smoothed out with a little pressure. There is no problem with these going straight on the first cast as most pike rods have a progressive action so don’t load as fast as faster action rods. However, if you have trouble bending the paperclip, bend one end of the paperclip past the preformed bend in the clip. This will prevent the clip from straightening out on the cast at all.

Weak mono connection

This is an old-school method, but still very effective today. If you choose a length of monofilament, make sure it is almost twice the length of your hooklink to minimize the chance of it tangling in flight. When casting the rig, the lead and bait should separate during the cast.

The weak link should be at least half the breaking strength of your main line. This way you can break the mono weak link if the cable gets snagged.

Top Tip: If you are new to pike fishing you may find the race running up the line during the cast. To avoid this, simply bounce the line with your index finger, this slows the line’s speed and allows the lead to travel back to the buffer bead and track. It is important that the race sits as close to the bumper bead as possible. We will explain why later in the article.

The buffer bead does exactly what it says on the tin, it acts as a buffer and has two jobs. First, it protects the knot on our main line from damage by acting as a shock absorber, and second, it prevents the race from going over our quick release link and onto our wire leader.

Remember we said we would come back to the point where the race is as close to the buffer bead as possible? Because of this, the lead is the anchor point of the rig itself. It is incredibly important to ensure that the line is tight against the lead and rig when fishing. The closer the lead is to the buffer bead and leader, the better your bite detection will be.

This is because the anchor point is as close to the bait as possible. So when a fish picks up a bait, it only needs to move the length of the hooklink before it reaches the anchor point and gives you a rod end readout.

As the lead sits further up the line the total distance a fish can move before the alarm sounds increases as we have increased the distance from the lead anchor point to the bait. So it takes more movement before we realize that a pike has shown interest in our bait.

We recommend leads from 2oz to 4oz depending on your fishing conditions, lure size and overall fishing distance. For example, if you want to achieve distance, opt for a heavier lead and a smaller bait configuration. This balances the whole rig a bit better and a smaller lure is more aerodynamic.

lead choice

With such a wide variety of lead shapes and weights on the market, an angler might think that any lead will do. That’s true up to a point. However, each molded lead has a unique design purpose that supports your rig presentation.

We recommend considering two types of leads.

distance

As the name suggests, the spacer lead was developed to increase the overall casting distance. Its aerodynamic spherical design allows it to cut through the air more efficiently. Spacers are ideal for fishing over firm ground and are well suited for fishing on long and slowly rising drops or steeps.

Flat pear

With a flat pear profile, these leads don’t cast as well as spacers but lay better on soft or muddy bottoms. They also don’t roll on steep slopes, unlike distance ledges. This means rig presentation is vastly superior in these instances as the flat bulb design will not roll when presented on steeper drop-offs.

Quick Change Trace Clips allow you to attach and detach the leader from the rig itself. This can be very beneficial. It allows you to quickly replace a damaged leader without having to disassemble the entire rig. It also allows you to release the leader when landing a fish. This means you can easily deal with a fish without having to carry a pike rod around the bank, as well as deal with a lively fish in a landing net or on an unhooking mat.

How to fish a running ledger rig

Cast the rig where you want it and spring the line just before the rig hits the water. This will ensure the rig lands perfectly and provides a better presentation.

Once the rig hits the bottom, make sure your line has settled and unwind until the line is fully taut and you feel the weight of the lead. It is important that the line is snug against the lead as your bite indication is extremely important as we want to eliminate the chance of you deep hooking a fish.

Fishing over herbaceous lake/hole beds

When fishing over a weed based bottom, a standard running ledger rig may not be practical. This is because the race or lead can get caught in grass and increase the resistance of your running ledger rig. In these circumstances, implementing a floating Ledger stem allows you to present a drag-free rig on these types of floors. Because the ledger stands up, the buoyancy helps keep your main line above the weedy areas.

So what is a ledger stem?

A Ledger stem is basically a race with a buoyancy aid attached just below the race. The stem to which the race is attached is made of either plastic tubing or wire. At the other end is a carabiner to attach your leash.

summary

A monster lurks in the shallow water, gently working its flippers to stay still. It’s half in and half out of a grass bed, waiting to spring into action when a perch swims nearby.

It’s the closest thing to a toothed torpedo you’ll find in freshwater.

And if there’s a more exciting fish to catch, I’d love to know what it is!

Big, aggressive, acrobatic: the pike is everything an angler expects from a fish. And while they’re not picky eaters, the spring fry casts many fishermen for a loop. Summer can also be challenging if you don’t know what to look for, where to find them, or how pike feed.

We want to help and below is our analysis of pike basics as well as our favorite pike fishing tips and techniques to catch the big ones.

Equipment for pike fishing: High-performance rods – Strong reels – Irresistible baits

Pike Basics

Pike, or Esox lucius, is a long, lean, powerful predator. Its scales are a deep olive green near the dorsal fin, shading to mottled olive and finally yellow or white on the abdomen. This excellent camouflage helps him blend into the background, and as we’ll discuss below, this affects his feeding behavior and where you’re likely to find him.

Averaging 16 to 22 inches in length, these voracious fish are a threat to anything even close to their size, and with adequate food and warm temperatures, they can grow to a whopping 59 inches and 63 pounds! As is usual, the females grow larger than the males.

As you can see from this chart, expect an average pike of between 1½ and 4 pounds – but you never know when a giant will take your bait and give you the fight of a lifetime!

The pike has large eyes that provide exceptional vision, and when paired with a sensitive lateral line and sensory pores on its lower jaw, it makes an exceptional ambush predator. Pike hunt by finding vegetation to hide in or around, using their natural camouflage. Remaining absolutely still, they wait until they see prey or feel its vibration, then rush into full swing with an amazing burst of energy.

Prey includes fish of all kinds, including other pike, frogs and other amphibians, reptiles like snakes, and pretty much anything else that fits in their mouths. Speaking of maws, the pike’s maw is armed with some sharp teeth, some of which point backwards. As a result, what goes in rarely goes out!

Pike Spawning: Prepare for prime time

When winter loosens the weather, pike head for the shallows before the ice is gone. They’re not looking for food, they’re looking for mating, and these normally aggressive fish just aren’t hungry. When the water warms up to a cold 40 degrees, pike are ready to spawn.

As with all pike species, vegetation is key. As Clark Moen, a breeding biologist, explains, pike attempt to lay their eggs in “submerged vegetation in shallow water in the inlets of large lakes or at the mouth of a tributary or stream. They don’t build a nest for the eggs, nor do they tend to the eggs after they’re laid.” Instead, the fertilized eggs remain attached to vegetation while the exhausted pike recover in preparation for an early summer feeding frenzy.

For this poor upbringing strategy to work, the females lay up to 600,000 eggs at a time. Most won’t make it, but the few that do make it enough to keep the pike at the top of the food chain.

This temporary anorexia leaves many pike fishermen at a loss – but it shouldn’t.

Finding where the pike go is fairly easy: shallow, live weed beds or rushes near tributaries, streams, or rivers that empty into a lake. Especially when these areas border deep water, they are the best spawning grounds.

Instead of hunger, they rely on irritability and their innate predatory instincts. You need to slow down and cast your lures with a touch more finesse than in the summer and you want to give the pike a chance to see and feel your lure while you are working with it.

We’ll be talking more about techniques and baits below, so read on!

Pike Feeding Behavior: What Does It Mean For You?

When spring turns to summer and water temperatures really rise, pike begin to forage. As Greg Keefer writes for Game and Fish, “Most pike start feeding heavily when water temperatures reach the 55 to 60 degree range and go into the spring feeding frenzy when they get to 65 degrees.” They want one gaining weight due to harsh winters and their spawning anorexia, so they revert to their aggressive ways.

Pike are excellent ambush predators and it’s worth taking a moment to assess what this means for you as an angler.

Look out for clear water and vegetation. Pike generally prefer water with low turbidity where sunlight can reach underwater plants and encourage their growth. The vegetation provides the cover these ambush masters need. This also means that you should focus on weed beds and other dense cover during your pike hunt.

. Pike generally prefer water with low turbidity where sunlight can reach underwater plants and encourage their growth. The vegetation provides the cover these ambush masters need. This also means that you should focus on weed beds and other dense cover during your pike hunt. Pike are aggressive. With most species, sophistication and finesse are key – but not with the mighty pike! They hit most baits with one attitude, and you don’t have to worry about casting something too big or fishing too aggressively for them.

. With most species, sophistication and finesse are key – but not with the mighty pike! They hit most baits with one attitude, and you don’t have to worry about casting something too big or fishing too aggressively for them. Pike rely on their sight and lateral line to find prey. This means colour, flash and vibration are key when choosing bait and of course live bait is always a solid option.

. This means colour, flash and vibration are key when choosing bait and of course live bait is always a solid option. Pike feed at dawn and dusk. Given the importance of sight to their ambush hunt, the 90 minutes around sunrise and sunset are often the most productive.

Pike Fishing Tips: How to catch more and bigger pike

Use the right line

Many pike anglers swear by braids, especially when choosing line based on diameter rather than strength. As a result, you often see anglers casting 30-pound pigtails or heavier.

If you ask them why they made that choice, you’ll hear a variety of answers. Abrasion resistance, some say. Node strength, others reply. You will hear that again and again.

Don’t believe it!

We’ve already taken a close look at Line and cleared up a few myths. If you want to know all the details, take a look at our Myths Debunked article. Suffice it to say that these answers reflect some of the misconceptions we would like to correct.

Braid is not very abrasion resistant. Breaking strength is not a measure of abrasion resistance. And while it’s true that very heavy braid still has a slim gauge, allowing you to use very strong line even at 30, 40 or 50 pounds, braid isn’t as abrasion resistant as mono- or fluorocarbon.

That’s a fact, but don’t take our word for it!

The braid is made up of several small strands of super strong material that are woven together to form the final line. If only a few of these strands are damaged by a pike’s teeth, the breaking strength of the line drops enormously.

As Gary Poyssick explains, “The fact that braided line is made by winding multiple strands on top of each other means those strands can separate. When they separate – and they will if something hard scratches the surface just right – they allow water to seep into the sealed surface. When they open, water ingress will wear them down, and this wear can lead to breakage. Trust us when we say these stresses will result in big fish getting away.”

In head-to-head tests, the braid was inferior to both the mono and fluoro braid in abrasion resistance from diameter to diameter. And although you can improve this by increasing your weight, the question is why?

Why choose the choice with the least abrasion resistance and then try to make it better?

Braid has poor knot strength. That’s because the polyethylene fibers that make up the braid don’t bite on themselves very well. You can work with this by tying very strong knots like Palomar and San Diego Jam, but physics will work against you.

TackleTour’s tests found an average knot strength of just 49 percent using a variety of premium braids. So for a 20lb test, this means that an average line will break knots at just 9.8lbs!

That’s one of the reasons anglers use super heavy braided lines – they compensate for inherently weak knot strength!!!

That being said, it’s clear that abrasion resistance and knot strength aren’t strong suits for braids.

But it is more delicate than the alternatives as it is non-stretchable. This is important for bite detection and we can see the case for casting a braided main line during spawning when pike are reluctant to bite.

But in the height of summer, pike will pound your bait and bait. Bite detection really isn’t an issue, but impact strength is. And this is yet another weakness of the braid.

Instead, we recommend you use high-quality monofilament such as Stren Original. It ties well, offers high knot strength, excellent abrasion resistance and excellent shock resistance.

When TackleTour tested the knot strength of even an average mono like Trilene XL, they found it to be exceptional: the line they approved as the 10 pound test held 9.7 pounds on the knot.

That’s 97 percent knot strength!!!

To get 10 pounds of knot strength from a braid, you must do at least a 20 pound test. Even then, its abrasion resistance probably won’t equal 10-pound mono!

In terms of abrasion resistance, Mono is actually a single filament with a relatively thick diameter; it’s also round. Together this means Mono can take abuse without losing its strength while still being able to roll over rough surfaces. Nylon is also a fairly strong material and is forgiving of small scratches and nicks.

For most pike anglers we just don’t see a good reason to skip mono and cast braid instead.

Use a leader

It’s clear that we recommend monofilament as your main line, but whatever your fishing, no line can withstand the teeth of a pike. You can get lucky and miss those mouth razors, but if just one hits your line, it’s pretty much game over.

When I’m fishing for pike I always use a leader. I really don’t recommend relying on a abrasion resistant main line to compete against sharp-toothed fish.

One option is to use very heavy fluorocarbons, like Berkley’s 100-pound pike leaders. They’re probably thick enough to hold a tooth or two, but I generally prefer metal for pike.

There are many excellent options including the Rio tapered leader which is made from a single strand of knottable wire covered with nylon.

If you prefer to tie your own I like the Terminator Titanium Knot Wire. It’s easy to use, and if you find a pike that can penetrate titan…well…I suggest you stay off the water!

If you want to learn how to retain your own leaders, Wired2Fish’s Ryan DeChaine offers clear instructions:

Go big

Pike fishing is a great opportunity to cast oversized baits. In warm weather, these fish are simply insatiable, as the famous poem by Ted Hughes states. Pike are carnivores when possible and will eat just about anything, and their eyes are often bigger than their stomachs!

Don’t be afraid to cast softbaits close to five inches, as well as crankbaits and jerkbaits in the 3¼ to 4 inch range or even larger. When you’re fishing with live or dead bait, bigger is almost always better.

As legendary pike guide Jon Thelen says, “People are concerned about using small presentations for spring pike, but when the bigger fish are ready to eat, bigger baits are just what the doctor ordered.”

Upgrade your hooks

The hooks on your lures may appear very sharp, but they are usually an inexpensive option to keep costs down for the manufacturer.

One tip you can take from the pros is to replace your triplets with quality alternatives like Gamakatsu. Premium hooks have a subtly different shape and improve the set and hold the fish on your line much better than the bargain options.

Pike fishing techniques: Catching pike in spring and summer

spring spinner

When the spawn ends, releasing pike to return to eating, throwing big spinners can be an ideal tactic to land a monster.

The pike still frolic in the shallows, in and between the weeds near tributaries of rivers, streams and tributaries and hitting these areas hard with a big spinner is a great way to start the pike season with a bang to start.

I like to work the edges of weed beds really hard with an ounce of Worden’s Original Rooster Tail in Fire Tiger or Chrome Whitetail.

Another option I really like is No products found.. With two blades, an alluring red color in TNT, and lots of flash and vibration, it can be killer if the pike get hungry.

One final lure to try with this technique is the awesome BigTooth Tackle Straight-Wire. A refined version of the standard design, it’s about as weed free as this style of lure can get and ideal for pitching in shallow waters where you know you’ll hit the green stuff.

rattling of the edges

Pike can ‘hear’ a lure’s rattle from quite a distance, and the more that lure looks like the real thing when they get close, the better!

I like running a rattling lure along the edges of canals and drop offs next to vegetation. Hungry pike will often charge in close by in search of a quick meal.

One of my favorites is the Rattlin’ Rapala because it looks like a small baitfish and has a rattle chamber that creates incredible sounds and vibrations. In larger sizes like the ¾ ounce, 3 ⅛ inch models, this lure can call in pike from the next county!

Dive over weed beds and around floating grass with Lightning Spoons

Strobe lures like the red and white Dardevle are just the thing for pike, especially in large sizes like 2 ounces that are 4 ¼ inches long. As it comes in a variety of colors and patterns, we like to have more than one option on hand. Particularly deadly on the fluttering descent, expect pike to brutally attack these as they play with both their keen vision and sensitive sideline.

I like fluttering these over weed beds, quickly recovering with a pause every now and then to fall toward the weed tops. You can also run these along edges, work the sides of spikes, and guide them past floating tufts of grass.

Sometimes I also fish these a bit like jerkbait, snap them and let them flap to a stop.

Jigging weed edges with Power Tubes

This unconventional choice is murder on a spit. A large pipe jig normally fished for perch can be fitted to a large jig head resulting in one of the deadliest pike combinations out there. We particularly like the 4 ½ inch. No products found. mounted on a ¼ ounce YUMbrella Money Head. When fished right next to a weed bed, pike will dive in to snag what they mistake for juvenile fish darting from cover.

leeches in the grass

Cal Johnson, one of our readers, is fishing for pike in Rainy Lake. This is a prime spot to catch a real brute and he has some experience on that front!

He likes to cast big Zoom Super Flukes on a 5/0 hook suspended 18″ below a large running swivel. That makes sense to me: you want to run a substantial hooklink to avoid breakouts, and a big hook with a fat meal wriggling for its full value is exactly what hungry pike are looking for.

I also like the zoom leeches. Her delicate tail dances at the slightest twitch of your rod tip, and this lifelike action gets the pike’s sideline on the edge.

His favorite colors? Chartreuse, white ice and chewing gum.

Mr. Johnson agrees that you will find pike where you find vegetation and he will look for floating grass and weeds in relatively shallow water.

His personal record is a whopping 48 inches, which he believes weighed nearly 20 pounds!

We’d love to see a picture of you with that fish, Cal!

Best time to catch pike

When it comes to pike fishing there are many things that we anglers need to consider. The weather conditions, the type of baits we use and of course the time of day are all very important factors. Pike will bite just about anything put in front of them, so the time of day plays a big part in where they are in the water. Personal experience and decades of pike fishing have helped us determine the best times to fish for pike. Note that pike can really be caught all day, you just need to adjust your fishing patterns to find the big ones. Pike are very territorial and will attack anything you throw at them, so it’s just a matter of noting where they are.

pike in the morning

Pike are more active in the morning than usual. Early morning, just before the sun rises, is an excellent time to hunt hungry pike. You can find them in either open or shallow water chasing their first meal of the day. Great baits for the morning include flexible raps as well as top water squirts like a hula popper. As the water is usually calm in the mornings top water baits cause quite a stir and pike are usually in the shallows in search of baitfish.

afternoon pike

After the morning hunt, the pikes usually calm down and go to weed beds or deeper water; especially when it’s hot outside. In the afternoon, the water levels heat up a bit, making pike lazier and more difficult to catch. If you want to fish in the afternoon, try spinners and weedless lures and tow them through weed beds. If that doesn’t work, you can try deep-diving rapalas and trolling about 25 feet of water. You might get lucky, but afternoon pike fishing isn’t usually the best choice.

night pike

Pike often get a second wind when the sun goes down and the water cools. During this time the pike start stalking again, making them an easy target. Fish for pike in the evening as well as in the morning. Just be aware that the pike usually calm down once the sun goes down and the water gets darker.

What time do we fish for pike?

Well, in our experience, the best time to keep landing monster pike is first thing in the morning. We like to leave just before the sun comes up. Once the sun peaks, you’re sure to nail a few monsters, so make sure you’re ready to rumble. Pike do not feed in the dark of night. When they leave in the morning, they starve and attack anything that gets in their way. Around 11am when the sun is strong we usually call it a day.

Final Thoughts

Pike are chasing the dreams of many northern anglers – and with good reason! Easy to lure, fun to catch, pike are a spring and summer adventure few other fishing adventures can match.

We hope these tips and techniques help you catch more (and bigger) pike this season and we’d love to hear from you!

Please leave a comment below and let us know what works for you on your local lake or river.

Everyone and everything loves a scent.

The sleek, silvery fish — officially known as the “rainbow melt” — is widespread in many lakes and ponds and is the preferred food of landlocked salmon and other larger fish. In streams, they could be devoured by opportunistic mammals or birds. And people? Well, when we’re not using them as bait to catch other fish, we’re eating them too.

In fact, even stints love stints.

“Stints are cannibalistic,” said Kevin Dunham, Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife’s director of fisheries resources for the Penobscot area, who is also the state’s smelt expert. “So [adults] will eat the younger stint”

Dunham chuckled as he explained the universal appeal of the stint.

“She will eat anything,” he said. “We pretty much think of them as the fries of the lake coveted by everything, including humans.”

Anglers and eaters alike will vouch for the Rainbow Stint. Given this popularity, here’s an introduction that covers multiple aspects of the ever-popular baitfish.

What is the difference?

So you know what a stint is. And you know it’s not the same as a smolt (although the words are pretty similar), which is actually a life stage that an Atlantic salmon goes through.

But what about these other stints – the ones that anglers catch in tidal rivers – what sets them apart from the smaller species we find in our lakes and ponds?

According to Dunham, not much. Both are rainbow melts.

“It’s a bit like [the difference] between landlocked salmon and Atlantic salmon,” Dunham said. “They are the same species, but one has become landlocked over time.”

This means that ocean-access rainbow melts have a more diverse food base and tend to grow larger. They are often attacked by landing nets when they return to rivers to spawn. It also means, Dunham said, there are more predators out there looking to eat them.

There are smelt cabins for rent on some of Maine’s coastal rivers, which are popular in the winter when the ice is thick enough to be safe.

Years ago, most smelt populations in the state’s lakes and ponds were found in waters near the coast, Dunham said. Then they were stored in lakes by the state to serve as food for other species, or were illegally introduced into other waters.

Today, smelters can be found throughout the state.

Smelt begin by eating plankton, aquatic invertebrates and fish larvae, Dunham said. They start eating other fish that are smaller than them. Their growth can vary from water to water, with some lakes supporting populations of unusually large specimens that some call “jack stints”. In other lakes these stints will remain smaller.

“There’s some stints in the north that can be up to 14 inches,” Dunham said.

But that’s not necessarily a good thing, especially when all the melts are big.

“It’s possible that if the smelt population in a lake is all jack smelts, that population is generally injured,” he said.

In general, however, stints don’t get that big. Dunham said the average age for a stint is 3 or 4 years old and the average height is around 5 or 6 inches.

Jacks are larger than average. “Pin” stints are smaller – maybe just an inch or two long. And pen tints might be the least popular fish of a very popular species.

“Commercial [bait traders] don’t like buying these because nobody likes buying them as bait,” Dunham said.

catch her

How you catch stints depends on when you do it and where you are.

And before you even try to catch them, it’s important that you check the state’s fisheries code, as many bodies of water — particularly streams and creeks — are off-limits to fishing for them.

The reason: Stints are simply too important as food for the larger game fish that depend on them.

“I would say pretty much every [landlocked] salmon population in the state is tied to a smelt population in this lake,” Dunham said.

And that’s why the DIF&W gives other fish the first sip of the delicious critters.

“The top priority for the department is to manage them as a foraging base for salmonids,” Dunham said, describing a group of fish that includes salmon and trout. “As a result, we unfortunately had to close some areas for diving.”

Diving with a long handled landing net is a favorite method of smelt fishing during night time spring spawning runs on streams and streams.

In winter, ice anglers often fish from their ice shacks using tiny hooks and small pieces of cut worms or melts as bait. Often, Dunham said, these anglers fish near shore. Their catch is sometimes used as bait for future ice fishing adventures and sometimes taken home for dinner.

And then there are bait fishermen trying to catch stints to sell to traders or anglers. Their method involves large nets — 30 to 50 feet wide, according to Dunham — dropped through a slot cut in the ice.

Stints are not as hardy as some other baitfish like shiners and minnows and seem to die much easier in bait buckets. On lakes where fishing with live bait is permitted, many anglers prefer to hook the live stints through the back or lips and then lower them into a hole in the ice. So, keeping them alive in a bait bucket becomes crucial.

“They’re pretty fragile,” Dunham said. “They’re quite sensitive for some reason. But the best thing [for them] is cold, well-oxygenated water.”

Dunham suggested using a battery-powered circulator to bring oxygen to the water in the bait bucket, and adding fresh water frequently.

eat them up

We’ve fished stints and fished with stints. Now it’s time to take the next step and take a more active role in the food chain.

“It’s quite a tradition in the state to dip a jumble of melts in the spring,” Dunham said.

Or eating a mess of freshly caught smelt that we caught with hook and line over the winter.

Interestingly, all of Dunham’s cooking tips are second-hand. Everyone (except the state’s stint expert) loves to eat the “lake fries”.

“Personally, I don’t like them, but from what I understand and what I’ve seen — my mom always did the same thing — you just cut off the heads with scissors,” Dunham said. “If they’re small enough, she hasn’t even bothered to clean them. She would cook them, guts and all. When they are bigger, they will be cleaned.”

After that it’s pretty easy.

“Roll them in batter and fry them,” Dunham said.

In other words, treat them like french fries.

by Chris Riley Updated on . When fishing

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The Sabiki rig is a state-of-the-art fishing technique that was first used in Asia for baitfish fishing. Sabiki rigs have become known as flasher rigs to a large part of the fishing community. They are the absolute fishing tackle and are now used all over the world.

The rig consists of flies with a secondary line attached to the hook. The hook has a flattened end that resembles a spade, which reflects light and makes the fly even more visible to the fish.

The fly is attached to the main line by a stiff monofilament, which we shall refer to as the secondary line. It is stiff so the branch hangs away from the main line to make the rig appear natural. This also reduces collision between the baitfish and increases the likelihood of a bite.

It also reduces the chance of the main line getting tangled. If you’re patient enough you might even end up with bites on all 6 or 8 hooks.

If you feel this gathering is too much to keep up with, you will be pleased to know that you are not alone, as most of us were when we started. We were delighted to learn that most Sabiki rigs come already assembled and are easy to unpack.

How to use a Sabiki rig

Due to the composition of a sabiki rig it offers a ton of possibilities and triggers fish that fight fiercely for the food! The features make the Sabiki rig great, but it also comes with other capabilities and you should know how to use it properly before you start. The most important thing to remember when using a Sabiki rig is not to jig or snap too hard or too fast – in other words, if you feel a bite, don’t jig right away like you would with a regular one hooks would do.

Instead, let more fish fill the other hooks for a few seconds after you feel the first bite. This can be tricky as every angler’s natural reaction is to rip as soon as they feel a bite. The hard snapping motion causes other fish to flee around the hook and you miss your chance to catch multiple baitfish. Remember: you travel in large groups. So if you feel a bite, you will most likely get more a few seconds later.

Fishing with a friend can also help, since as mentioned above, the Sabiki rig will get you multiple fish on the hook, meaning it’s a two-person job to bring them in. Make sure to move carefully and strategically, especially when you’re unhooking your fish. The last thing you want is to hurt yourself or cause unnecessary damage to the fish.

Depending on where you are, adding a little more buddy to the hook helps, especially if you’re not getting enough bites. Use small chunks of shrimp or other bait fish – using frozen shrimp from the stock branch and thawing works just fine.

Not only does this increase your changes when hooking a fish, it also increases the size of the fish. As mentioned, baitfish travel in large schools and the competition is fierce – if you create an environment that’s more competitive, you’re likely to get the bigger fish.

What to look out for when buying a Sabiki rig

The Sabiki rig provides the best platform for bait fishing and keeps the bait alive as you can catch multiple baits in one cast. You need to maximize yields by making sure you are getting the right one for your particular type of baitfish and the conditions you will be in.

It’s designed for light fishing, but as these lures are designed for larger game fish, expect a few surprises every now and then as you won’t be the only hunter.

Below are some of the basic elements to consider for your ideal Sabiki rig.

Colours

There are several considerations to weigh between:

The depth of the target structure

How sunny is the day?

distance from coastal waters

How cloudy is the water?

your target species

As you go deeper, lighter colors lose their visibility while darker colors become more distinguishable. Water absorbs the sharpness of bright colors in the so-called scattering effect.

Fish have an evolutionary advantage in seeing underwater and can see better than we can the deeper we go. The darker colors become more metallic and vibrant for the fish the deeper we drop, allowing them to attract your target species just as easily.

These variances are why flasher rigs sometimes use contrasting colors or paired colors to have an advantage in all scenarios.

When casting shallow water you don’t need to worry about these differences as what you see is not very different from what the fish see.

hook size

If the hook is too small, it won’t catch the fish after the bite, if it’s too big, the fish won’t bite at all.

Depending on the fish species, experienced anglers usually carry two closely spaced sizes so that if one doesn’t work, they can switch to the other. However, that doesn’t take away from the importance of determining the correct hook size before setting out.

fish species

Thin lines, hooks, and baits can work for small fish like bluegill or bass, but won’t stand up to larger fish. Every once in a while you’ll lure in more than the intended baitfish.

durability

You should research the composition of the Sabiki rig before committing. Materials like carbon steel for the hooks and fluorocarbon filaments for the main line and branches are enough to put your mind at ease. Both have been upgraded to be tough enough for the water and to resist wear and tear.

Strength

Consider testing both the main line and branch based on the type of fish you are targeting and the number of hooks on the sabiki.

The bigger the fish and the more hooks, the stronger the line needs to be. Tensile strength is often given as a test on the packaging.

Sabiki Rigs you might want to try

1. The Hayabusa Mix Flasher Sabiki Hot Hooks Check Current Price All fish love to fly and these rigs have been designed to look like the krill, shrimp and various insects they thrive on. Some of them even lace their wings with fish oil to add authenticity. Others use synthetic fish skin or natural fish skin for this purpose. The fish skin is sometimes further refined by giving it scale-like markings or treating it with a fish-like sheen. These make the bite irresistible for the baitfish. Hayabusa is the most renowned and innovative Sabiki manufacturer. Hayabusa Fishing USA has had a long history of supplying fishing hooks to the world since its inception in 1958. They pride themselves on being a leading manufacturer of quality fishing hooks that represent their Japanese roots. Their mantra is: “Never give up and do whatever is possible.” It is based on Japanese craft principles to which they are faithful. They work around the clock on new innovations to improve their already versatile products. Unsurprisingly, their Sabiki Rigs collection is celebrated by anglers worldwide. These hooks also come in different sizes. For example, you might want to use a size 6 for the days when you encounter a younger school of fish or a smaller species that has trouble biting the size 8. Fishing for bait fish is very delicate. The longer they stay out of the water, the higher the chance they won’t survive. They are also easily startled, and the entire school of them could move at the slightest provocation. You want them to move in the right direction to your wings. This process must be quick and efficient. Whichever type of fish you choose, Hayabusa offers you the most complete selection of Sabiki baits. Combined their high quality hooks with the best monofilaments in the industry to create innovative rigs of the highest quality. Advantages Reputable product name

Made of durable material

Wide range of options

Top quality rigs

Why the Hayabusa Mix Flasher Sabiki Hot Hook stands out

This Sabiki rig has been hailed by many seasoned lure fishermen as one of the finest gems ever dispatched from the Hayabusa kitchen. It allows you to catch live minnows as it ensures you have ample opportunity to keep them alive for their intended purpose. There are several reasons for this consensus.

reputation of the manufacturer

Hayabusa is one of the most acclaimed brand names in terms of fishing hook manufacturing. They have perfected the art over many years of innovation and striving to stay relevant to current needs. Their products work and they have earned their loyalty.

durability

Modern technology has been applied to ancient wisdom to produce some of the finest hooks that are easy to use but also stand up to extreme conditions. Carbon steel can withstand any stress the water puts on it, so the hooks will hold. The monofilament line used for the main line and branches is fluorocarbon based, making it not only sturdy but also strong enough to take the weight of the fish over and over again without sagging.

opportunities for variation

You can catch fish without baiting on the hooks, but putting decent bait on them is more effective. The shiny bits of metal that are a constant in most sabiki rigs are enough to trigger a bite from a baitfish.

They go one step further and introduce improvements to these lures in various forms such as: These include brightly colored flies, wings laced with fish oil, synthetic fish skin, and even real fish skin.

This will drive the baitfish wild, but Hayabusa anticipated that and the rigs have different variations of multiple hooks to reel in as many as possible. This is the ultimate bait fishing machine.