Pinewood Derby Drivers License? All Answers

Fine-tune the flat weight

Here are some suggestions for adding that flat weight to your Pinewood Derby car.

Add to the back of the car

Increase your car’s speed by putting most of the weight as far back in the car as possible. This weight can be attached directly to the back of the car.

Most racing rules require the car to be 7″ or less in length, so you should cut 1/8″ off the back of the car before applying the weight (cut 1/4″ if applying two two layers of weight ). Weight to match the rear of the car.

If you add other weights, drill holes in the back of the car and insert the weights, then the weights will be sealed when you attach the flat weight. Measure the length of the car with the weight on the car. If the car is longer than 7 inches, cut the front of the car to bring it back to 7 inches.

Add to underside of car

Racing rules require your pine derby car to have at least 3/8 inch clearance between the bottom of the car and the track. This weight is 1/8″ thick so it can be fitted to the underside of the car if your car has at least 1/2″ of clearance before adding the weight.

Place the weight as close to the rear of the car as possible. Some racing rules state that the axle slots cannot be covered. In this case, cut the weight so that it can be placed on either side of the slot. Our axle installer cannot be used when the weight is close to the axle slot, so the wheels and axles should be installed before adding the weight.

Add as a car accessory

Be creative and cut the weight into a variety of shapes to make hood scoops (see above), armor, bumpers and so on.

PINEWOOD DERBY RULES

How Pinewood Derby rules affect car design:

For several years I have researched all possible techniques to increase the speed of my Pinewood Derby cars. Unfortunately, many of these, like super light turned wheels, are illegal except in outlaw racing. Since aiming the pages I’ve written on how to improve the performance of Pinewood Derby cars for cars that can actually be driven, I decided it would make more sense to shift my focus to the techniques used in are legal at every Pinewood Derby race. … and therein lies a problem.

Boy Scouts of America allows each pack and district to write their own rules for their races. While most sets agree on the basics, there’s a lot of variation in the important area of ​​wheel treatments. This makes the task of defining a legal car almost impossible. To solve this problem, I examined the rule sets of 14 packs and districts to develop a consensus on what the average legal Pinewood Derby car looks like. All future research will be limited to cars that follow these rules.

To develop this consensus, I used the 2014 Pinewood Derby Rules from the following organizations:

1st North Florida Council

2. Redwood District

3. Gateway District

4. Timberline district

5. New Horizons District

6. Patriot District

7. NNJ District Ramapo Valley

8. Samoset Council Rib Mountain District

9. Nashua Valley Ward

10. Thunderbird District

11th North Star Council Championships

12. Vancouver District

13. Package 3371 – Lafayette, Indiana

14. Northeast Georgia Council

All state that the cars must be made from official BSA Pinewood Derby Car Kits or approved BSA parts and that cars must weigh a maximum of 5 ounces. They also state that the cars must be new for the year they will be raced and that the cars must be made by the Scout with a minimum of adult help. Neither by implication nor by direct statement, lightened or turned wheels, narrower wheels, professionally prepared wheels or axles, and pre-built cars are prohibited. These rules are designed to prevent someone from simply “buying” a win. In most cases, pre-cut bodies are prohibited. Any lubricant must be formulated and applied in such a way that it does not contaminate the track. Springs, bearings and bushings are prohibited. The car must run free and the only source of power is gravity.

The most important Pinewood Derby rules:

They differ most in what can legally be done with the wheels, how many wheels must be on the car, how many must touch the track, and where the wheels can be placed. Axle treatments are also carefully defined, although they are not as critical as wheel constraints due to their limited impact on performance. Because wheel treatments have the greatest impact on vehicle performance, rules to limit them are most important. Here’s how the 14 rule sets deal with this all-important problem:

Number of wheels on the car:

Five organizations state that the car must have 4 wheels and that all 4 must be in rolling contact with the track.

Four indicate that the car must have 4 wheels, but only three are allowed to be in contact with the track.

One says cars must have 4 wheels, but doesn’t specify how many must touch the track.

It doesn’t say how many wheels the car must have, but says 3 must touch the track. (This opens the door for a three-wheel car, replacing the fourth wheel with a guide fin.)

Three doesn’t mention how many wheels the car must have or how many must touch the track. (This also allows guide fins.)

Ten of the rule sets state that the car must have four wheels. Nine indicates or implies that only three need touch the track. Therefore, the consensus is that an average legal pine derby car has four wheels, only three of which need to touch the track. Note that this implies that using guide fins in place of one of the front wheels is illegal.

My condolences to anyone organizing a Pinewood Derby race. On the one hand, you want a level playing field so everyone has an equal chance of winning. Adopting a very restrictive set of rules prevents someone from creatively interpreting the rules to build a car with seemingly unfair odds. But very restrictive rulesets also penalize builders who have taken the time to research the physics of fast cars and are willing to put in extra work to take advantage of the knowledge gained. One way to fulfill both is to define different vehicle classes. The price for this is a more complicated race and the cost of more trophies.

Scope of allowed processing:

All 14 sets of rules state that the wheel surface touching the track must be flat. Any form of deformation such as rounding, grooves or edges to reduce the contact area with the raceway is prohibited. They all also indicated that the width of the wheel cannot be reduced. In addition, machining the tread on the inside or outside to reduce weight is not permitted.

Twelve sets of rules state that only light grinding of the wheel is allowed. This sounds like a fairly simple rule at first, but it has many ambiguities. What is a “light” cut? A racer might think it’s a few thousandths of an inch. Another 20 thousandths. The difference can give second-place finisher a 6-inch advantage at the end of the race. Grinding is defined as using an abrasive to remove unwanted material. The tool in a lathe can be thought of as a grinder with a single piece of grain. I’ll admit this is extreme, but it opens the door to turning wheel treads, which confers a huge advantage.

Four sets of rules address this by defining how much the original 1.194 wheel diameter can be reduced: 1.16 inches in one case, 1.18 inches in another case, and two stating that the small, decorative ring of asperities ( tread) facing the outside of the wheels must be visible and untouched – 1.14 inches.

Two indicate wheels can be “trued” and one term used for turning wheels to ensure the wheel surface is perfectly coaxial with the wheel bore.

One set of rules stated that wheels had to weigh at least 2.6 grams. The problem with this rule is that a car’s wheels would have to be removed and weighed to determine them. As this would almost certainly affect the alignment of the car when replacing the wheels, this amounts to a destructive test.

The most demanding rule comes from the Thunderbird District, which states that wheels must be used as they come out of the box. Polishing or turning of any kind was not allowed.

While there seems to be consensus that only light grinding should be allowed, the complete lack of a definition of how much material can be removed and still be considered “light” renders this rule worthless. The definition of a minimum diameter sounds better, but has a practical problem. It requires someone at the confiscation desk to have a micrometer and know how to use it. Properly measuring the diameter of each wheel is time consuming and risks scratching the wheel surface. I believe the best solution is to adopt the two district criteria which stated that the wheel is legal as long as the tire ring on the front of the wheel remains untouched. This is quick and easy to access, and allows the racer to put in the extra work to grind it down that far, a reward for doing so. As for trying to ban spinning, it’s an impossible rule to enforce. After grinding and polishing, all turning marks are removed, making it impossible to tell if it was done. As long as the wheels have not been reduced in diameter beyond the limit, there is no difference between turning and grinding. Some people may complain that spinning unfairly “aligns” the wheels (a process that is either explicitly or implicitly allowed by 11 of the 14 rule sets). The fact is, the likelihood that improper use of wheel mandrels will result is much greater when wheels come out of the process worse than they went in.

wheel position:

Seven sets of rules didn’t mention where the wheels should be.

According to Seven, the wheels must be installed either in the original slots or by a clearance close to the original slot separation.

Offset bikes were forbidden.

This rule is not important enough to worry about. Longer wheelbases reduce drag on the guide rail. Shorter bases reduce a car’s moment of inertia. These two effects tend to cancel each other out, so the benefits are negligible one way or the other. I recommend the fairest rule of allowing the wheelbase to be lengthened, not because it provides a significant advantage, but because it allows the carmaker more creativity in designing the car. I don’t think the rules should state that only the original slots can be used. Many blocks have slots that are so crooked that they make leveling the car impossible. Forcing a racer to use such a block or to purchase additional blocks until he is lucky enough to get a good one is unfair to him and a financial drain on his parents.

Wheel Boring Treatments:

Only one rule set prohibited filling and re-drilling the wheel bore to use a smaller diameter axle. The advantage this is intended to provide is that for the same drag, a wheel acts over a smaller radius, reducing torque.

This rule is important, but almost always falls under the ban on using reduced-diameter axles. The problem with delegating control of this process to axis treatments is that they are difficult to verify. In my opinion, filling and reaming should be expressly forbidden.

Axle Treatments:

Because Pinewood Derby Car Kits all use nails, which have many surface imperfections that must be removed in order for the car to roll, all rule sets allow for the nails to be filed, sanded, and polished.

Six indicated that narrowing or grooving axles was prohibited. For many years it was believed that cutting grooves in axles reduced the contact area with the wheel bore and therefore reduced drag. Many tests by independent researchers have disproved this idea, but it still stands to this day. In most cases, axle grooves actually cause cars to drive more slowly. This rule is difficult to enforce as the car has to be disassembled for inspection.

Angling the axle head was forbidden. Some filing and polishing of the head is necessary to eliminate flanges created during the nail making process. It is physically impossible to eliminate this flange without introducing some cone. Because the amount of cone required to achieve the cone effect is too small to be detected, this rule is only enforceable in extreme cases. The outer faces of modern standard pine derby wheels are shaped in such a way that bowling has minimal effect, so this rule really doesn’t make much sense.

One forbade tilting or angling of axles. This is a serious problem as it could be designed for included curved axles. Without this, most cars cannot be aligned to roll straight.

One stated that the minimum axle diameter was 0.084 inches. This rule is difficult to enforce for the same reasons that apply to defined wheel diameters.

A permitted axle groove.

I think the fairest rule is to say that trucks can be filed, honed, polished and leave it at that. Grooving probably won’t help and is hard to check. A potential benefit is that the grooves could be filled with graphite to create a reservoir for the wheels to retain a higher level of lubrication over the course of the race. But doing this successfully is so difficult, and the benefit so small, that I believe that if a racer manages to achieve it, any victory it achieves is deserved.

“Ghost” rule:

Eleven of the districts/packs had an additional explanation that all racers are expected to abide by the spirit of the rules and not look for loopholes that can be exploited to gain a performance advantage. The problem with this statement is that it discourages creative thinking, research and initiative – all of which are otherwise supported by the BSA. If the rules don’t clearly state that a car must have four wheels and a competitor has the imagination to realize that this means they can only race on three wheels and a guide fin, then I believe they deserve the right has to take advantage of it. On the other hand, if the regulations forbid axle grooves and a racer does it anyway because they are hidden and he can get away with it, then that is cheating and goes against the “spirit” of the regulations.

Pinewood Derby Rule Recommendations:

Having carefully considered the 14 Pinewood Derby Rules researched for this page, their implications, intentions and considerations of what is fair to the racers, I recommend the following rules, easily adapted from AWANA Grand Prix and Pinecar -Races can be customized by simply changing the names of the approved kits :

General: Cars may only be built using approved BSA Pinewood Derby kits and BSA approved accessories. All cars must be built for the current Pinewood Derby Racing Season. NO REPTS or REPEATS. (The goal of encouraging father-son interaction is thwarted if the son simply uses the same car year after year.) Cars must be designed, built, and aligned by the racer with minimal adult supervision. (The intention is to develop a child’s motor skills, patience, and creativity. All of this will be hampered when the adult does most of the work. Also, the child will feel little pride in winning with a car they didn’t build themselves ) Cars may not be sent to third-party companies for construction, tuning or other performance enhancements. Pre-bought cars may not be used. (This is to prevent someone from simply “buying” a win.)

Body: The main body must be made from the block of wood included in a BSA approved kit. If the builder lacks the resources to cut a car out of a supply log, attending a workshop (den/pack/district/council) is highly recommended. Alternatively, a BSA approved preformed block can be purchased to be used with the stock BSA wheels and approved axles.

Vehicle Specifications:

A. Width – Do not exceed 2 & 3/4 inches

B. Length – Must not exceed 7 inches

C. Weight – Must not exceed 5.0 ounces (141.7 grams) as measured on a scale. (It is the judges’ responsibility to have a certified 5-ounce calibration weight available at the check-in table to ensure the scale is accurate and to avoid arguments from parents about the accuracy of the scale. Many caves allow cars to happen when they are up to 10 percent higher. As the same scale is often used year after year, racers may learn that they can take advantage of this by building heavier cars. This gives them an unfair advantage. One gram equals 0.006 second (1 inch) lead at the end of the race. Overtaking cars that are even just 5 percent overweight (7 grams) means they have a 7 inch advantage over all other legal cars.) Lead is allowed and required not be fully enclosed to prevent skin contact. (Some rule sets contradict this. In practice, however, this means that no one could ever use lead or lead shot fishing weights. Also, it’s almost certain that the kid handled the lead when assembling the car. After all, unlike destructive tests can it can be difficult to tell the difference between lead and many other metals used to weigh down a car.))

D. Height – Must not exceed 3 inches

E. Releases:

Center Rail Width: Must clear center guide rails, typically at least 1-3/4 inch minimum.

Bottom: No less than 3/8 inch from track surface between center rails. (The last two are to ensure the car doesn’t drag on the track.)

F. Wheelbase Any wheelbase is allowed as long as it doesn’t create an unstable car that could cause it to go off track and interfere with other cars. (Allowing wider wheelbases allows for greater design creativity.)

G. The front end must be at least 3/4 inch wide at the center to be able to trigger the end of race timer.

H. No part of the bodywork, wheels or attachments may protrude in front of the starting peg.

I. The car design can be upgraded by adding other sturdy materials, such as plastic or metal. All additions must be securely attached and meet vehicle size requirements.

J. Except for the wheels, no part of the vehicle or attachments to the vehicle may come into contact with the track.

Prohibited Items:

A. Feathers

B. starting devices or propellants

C. Electronic or lighting devices that interfere with race electronics.

D. Liquid, wet paint, oil, sticky substance or powder of any kind (except axle lubrication)

E. Glass or overly fragile parts

F. Bearings, bushings, washers, sleeves, hubcaps or inserts attached to or in contact with the axle, body or wheels.

G. Loose items on the car

H magnets

I. Sharp projections that could injure someone.

BIKES:

A. Use only official Scout Grand Prix wheels. All lettering/numbering, both inside and outside, must remain complete and visible. The knurling and other BSA markings on the outer wheel area must remain visible. The outer wheel surface that contacts the rail can be ground, shaved, turned, or polished to correct surface imperfections, mold burrs, and off-center wheel bores. The outer diameter of the wheel must not be reduced so much that the outer ring is touched by decorative knobs (tracks). (On AWANA vehicles, the tread of the wheel must not be reduced to the point where it touches the bulge of the wheel face.) The inner diameter of the wheel must not be ground or machined in any way that increases its diameter. The outer wheel surface must not be reshaped in any way to minimize tread contact or to change aerodynamics. The tread must be level and parallel to the wheel bore. The taper of the hubs and the dressing of the inner tread edge is allowed. The tread width must not be reduced. You may apply material such as glue, nail polish, or tape to the inside of the wheel to help balance the wheel, but do not remove any material from the inside surfaces.

B. Wheel bore treatment is permitted, including polishing and/or tapping. Wheel holes must not be filled and re-drilled to change the hole diameter or to get a better fit with the axle.

C. All work on the wheels must be performed by the racer with minimal adult guidance.

D. The car must have at least four wheels, but it is not necessary for all four wheels to be in contact with the track surface. Each wheel must be mounted on an axle on the outside of the vehicle in a vertical position. Each wheel must be attached directly to the wooden body with an axle and rotate freely.

The following wheel modifications are PROHIBITED:

A. Rounding of tread/wheel edges

B. Grooves, H-cutting or V-cutting

C. Change in wheel profile

D. Narrowing the tread surface, other than straightening the inner tread edge

E. Drill side panels

F. Gouging, grinding or otherwise removing or modifying material from inside the wheel

G. Fill each wheel surface with any type of material

H. There are aftermarket modified wheels that are RELIEVED. This is usually done by turning the wheels on a lathe and removing material from the inside of the wheel. These wheels are NOT homologated and EASY TO IDENTIFY upon inspection. Cars with these wheels are not allowed to participate in races. (The purpose of this rule is to prevent a racer from “buying” a race by buying a set of these wheels, which give an unfair advantage over racers who do not have the economic resources to buy such wheels. Also, the use of professionally lightened or turned wheels violates the rules regarding third-party labor and undermines the idea that the child does most of the work themselves.)

I. Coating the outer surfaces of the wheels with lubricant is prohibited as it may contaminate the track.

J. Using a vane or pin in place of one of the front wheels.

AXES:

A. Only BSA approved nailing axles may be used. Filing, grinding and polishing to remove burrs is permitted.

B. Grooves are allowed.

C. Axles must not be connected to any device that mechanically alters rotation or rotation. The axles must be mounted in the wooden parts of the car. Drilled holes or slots can be used.

D. Approved lubricants include (but are not limited to) Graphite, Teflon, Nyoil and Krytox.

E. Excessive application of lubricant resulting in delamination on the track is not permitted.

INSPECTION:

Each car must pass inspection by the official inspection committee before being allowed to participate. The inspectors will disqualify any vehicle that does not comply with the rules. Any adult or Scout may appeal the inspectors’ findings to the chair of the race committee, whose decision is final. After acceptance, only the race officials take care of the cars.

Cars can be reclassified or disqualified at any time if race officials determine that they do not meet the requirements.

WEIGHTS:

Lead (Pb) drilling/removal is NOT permitted at the race venues or at check-in time due to the toxicity of the material.

REPAIR:

Race officials may authorize repairs, usually when damage is caused by collision with another vehicle or object, or is dropped by an official. The Cub Scout is responsible for all car repairs. Adult guidance is allowed and encouraged. Repairs must be made before the start of the next race the car is scheduled for. Officials may delay the start of the run depending on the circumstances.

BEHAVE:

GOOD SPORTING CONDUCT IS EXPECTED. The race director can ask anyone who does not comply with this rule to leave.

Conclusion:

The aim of the BSA Pinewood Derby program is to promote adult-youth bonding, building skills, toolwork, creativity, positive competition and most importantly, fun. A good set of rules is necessary to encourage all of this. I sincerely hope that someone visiting this page found it helpful.

Axles

What are pine derby trucks made of?

Are slotted axles really faster than non-slotted axles?

The official BSA axles are manufactured using the metal stamping process. This requires them to be made of a mild steel. Axles are zinc plated to minimize corrosion. The stamping creates squeezing marks on the shaft and axle head, which should be removed.

If no lubricant is used, both axes are equally fast. Grooved axles have less surface area, but this benefit is offset by the increased pressure on the remaining surface. Results will change when a lubricant (dry or liquid) is used. Now the smaller surface area of ​​the splined axle has an advantage because the lubricant reduces the friction caused by the extra pressure. Our testing has shown a gain of about 4 inches at the finish line when using lubricated splined axles. More about our axles

What’s so great about graphite coated trucks?

We have developed a special process that connects the graphite to the axle. The result is an even distribution of the graphite along the length of the axle shaft, resulting in higher speed than loose graphite and lasting much longer. Our tests have shown no loss of speed after 20 races! For extra speed, add some loose graphite before racing.

Should I insert the axles at an angle into the block?

It is advantageous to angle the axles, but it is difficult to insert the axles at the correct angle, so the axles should always be inserted straight into the block. It is best to bend the axles slightly (1 to 2 degrees) and then insert them into the block. The bend should be at the point where the axle leaves the block. Several tools are available to bend the axles the right amount and in the right place. Insert the axles so that the bend is at the top.

Wheels

How big are Pinewood Derby Wheels?

Pinewood Derby wheels are 1.185 inches in circumference. The tread of the wheels is 0.313 inches wide. A typical wheel weighs 2.6 grams.

Should I sand my pine derby wheels?

In the past, pine Derby wheels had a spot of mold on the tread that had to be sanded off. The new wheels no longer have any traces of mold. Grinding can still help by eliminating variations in wheel circumference and making the wheel rounder, but grinding isn’t as necessary as it used to be.

How close should Pinewood Derby wheels be to the car?

The wheel hub should be a credit card thickness (about 0.03 inch) from the car block, but can be as much as 0.1 inch.

How long should Pinewood Derby Wheels spin?

A long spinning wheel has less friction, the longer a wheel spins the better. A good wheel spins for about 20 seconds, but spin time can vary depending on the type of wheel, lubricant, and the force used to start the spin. For example, wheels that have plastic removed to make them lighter don’t spin as long as unmodified wheels, but the lighter wheels are faster. Spinning is useful when comparing the four wheels in a set. You should replace a wheel that spins less than the others. To spin a wheel, place the wheel on an axle, hold the axle straight, and then spin it with your finger.

What are the best pine wood derby wheels?

The best wheels are round and light. If your racing rules allow, you can grind your wheels or, even better, turn them on a lathe to make them round. The next step would be to remove plastic from the inside of the wheel to make it lighter. This is best done with a lathe so that the wheel does not get out of balance. We offer a variety of ground and turned pine derby wheels.

Will my car go faster if I lift one of the front wheels?

If you lift one of the front wheels so that it does not touch the track, your car will go faster. First mount all wheels on your car and then push your car on a flat surface. Your car will steer slightly left or right. Lift the wheel the car is heading towards. The easiest way to raise one wheel is to lower the opposite wheel. Follow these instructions to lift a wheel.

lubricant

Which lube is the best, dry or liquid?

Our liquid lubricant (Krytox 100) is better than dry lubricants like graphite. It’s faster and lasts longer. The trick is to use a very small amount of the liquid. You want a very thin film on the axles.

Most Pinewood Derby car races prohibit liquid lubes because the liquid can drip onto the track. If you’re using a fluid other than Krytox, be sure to test it first – some liquid lubes can soften the plastic wheels.

We have tested every dry lubricant available and the Hob-E-Lube we sell is the fastest. It contains a small amount of molybdenum mixed with the graphite for better lubricating properties.

More about our lubricants

Can liquid lubricants be used with the graphite coated axles?

No, liquid lubricant and graphite do not mix well when mixed. You should add loose graphite to our graphite coated trucks like the standard trucks.

Should I lubricate the wheels before or after the car?

It’s a lot easier to lubricate them in front of the car, but you should also add more graphite just before the race. Instructions on how to lubricate the wheels can be found here.

How close to the race can I lubricate the car?

When using graphite there is no time limit on when you can lubricate your car. After greasing, simply store your car in a shoe box until the race.

If you use oil, the oil will slowly evaporate over time, so you should lubricate the car within a week of the race. Store the car in a shoe box until the race.

What else can I do to reduce friction?

A major source of friction is the friction between the wheel and the Pinewood Derby body. Some people tilt the axles up to keep the wheel off the body. A better solution are our graphite pads. These are 1/4″ self-adhesive pads that are placed over the axle hole on the body. The axis is placed through the center of the pad. Now the wheel is rubbing against the pad and not the body, which significantly reduces friction. Our testing has shown a gain of about 7 inches at the finish line when using graphite pads.

More about our pads

Pinewood Derby Car Design

How big is a pine derby block?

The dimensions of a Pinewood Derby Car Block are 7 inches long, 1 3/4 inches wide and 1 1/4 inches high. The official BSA block is made from ponderosa pine.

Should I bake the pinewood derby block?

The short answer is no, don’t bake the block. The idea behind baking the block is to remove moisture, which makes the block lighter. You can then put more weight on the rear of the car. The risk with baking is that you could warp the block. Also, the blocks have already been kiln dried, so all excess moisture has already been removed. Baking may remove more moisture, but the block will quickly regain moisture once removed from the oven and allowed to cool.

What scale is the Pinewood Derby Car?

The pine derby block is 7″ long. The scale is approximately 28:1.

How do I cut a Pinewood Derby Car?

A band saw is by far the easiest tool to use to cut a pine derby car. If you don’t have access to a band saw, a jigsaw will work. Fretsaws are inexpensive and available at hardware stores and online. Learn more about using a fretsaw. Both the band saw and fret saw can cut curves and other shapes. For a simple wedge block, almost any type of handsaw will work.

band saw band saw

Fretsaw Fretsaw

hand saw hand saw

Which Pinewood Derby Car shape is the fastest?

The fastest pinewood derby cars have more wood in the back and very little in the front. All other things being equal, the right car is faster than the left. The goal is to shift as much weight as possible to the rear of the car. The ultimate car would have very little wood with tungsten weights behind the rear axle. When you’re done, the car should balance about 1 inch in front of the rear axle. We have a wide range of pre cut cars made from the official pine derby blocks which can make building a pine derby car much easier.

Which end is the front of a Pinewood Derby car?

Either end can be the front of the car, but the end of the block furthest from an axle slot gives you an advantage if it’s the front of the car. The reason for this is that if the rear slot is close to the end of the block, you can load the car farther back. The car will be more stable and your car will go faster with the weight further back.

Can a Pinewood Derby Car be shorter than 7 inches?

Yes, you can make your car shorter, but it is not recommended. A shorter car has a lower center of gravity at the start, so it has less energy to convert to speed as it descends the track.

How long does it take to build a Pinewood Derby Car?

Allow at least one day to cut and sand the car, another day to paint it, and a third day to add decals and the wheels and axles.

The hardest part of making a car is cutting the wood. All of our car designs use straight cuts only, which simplifies construction. Our plans come with step-by-step instructions and lots of diagrams to show you how. Some people trace the design onto the side of the car (using the templates provided), then take the block to Home Depot or a hardware store and ask them to make the cut. More about our car designs

Are axle holes better than axle slots?

One of the big problems with slots is that it’s difficult to insert the axle so that it’s level. If your rules allow, axle holes are the way to go. You can use a #44 bit and a drill press to drill a hole next to each slot 1/8 inch from the bottom of the auto block. A drill press should be used to drill the holes. The holes can also be drilled with a hand drill if you use our Pro-Body Tool to guide the drill. If your rules dictate that you must use the slots, our Pro-Axle Guide will ensure the axles are properly seated.

What Makes Pinewood Derby Cars Fast?

Here’s what you can do to make your car faster:

Axles – Deburr and polish axles. The axes should be straight.

Wheels – Check that your wheels are round and not wobbling. Light bikes are faster.

Weight – Car should weigh 5 ounces. The weight should be placed near the rear of the car.

Alignment – The car should roll straight

Lubrication – Use plenty of good quality graphite

We have several helpful Pinewood Derby books that have all the details on how to make your car fast.

My Pinewood Derby Car doesn’t go straight. What can I do?

First, make sure you don’t have a bad bike. Spin each wheel with your finger. They should all spin for about the same amount of time. Replace any wheel that doesn’t spin very long. Next, check that the axles are inserted straight into the slot and are not skewed. The next step is to check if your axes are straight. Remove the axles from the car. Put each axis in a drill and rotate them. The axle must not wobble. Replace wobbly axles. If your axles and wheels are fine, the slots on your car block may not have been cut straight. Check that the slots are perpendicular to the body. If the above steps don’t solve the problem, you will need to bend the two front axles about 2 degrees right where they come out of the block. You can bend the axles by mounting them in a vise and tapping the axle lightly, or you can use our Axle Bender Tool or Rail Rider Tool to bend the axles.

My Pinewood Derby car is shaking.

Wobble slows the car and can cause the car to jump off the track. There are several causes of wobbling:

Bad Wheel – Spin the wheels. Replace any wheel that wobbles or doesn’t spin as long as the others.

Modified Wheels – Wobble can occur if the wheel’s tread has been cut so that only the center portion of the wheel touches the track.

Bad wheel alignment – Roll the car on a flat surface. It should roll straight to 6 inches after an 8-foot run.

Center of Gravity Too Far Back – The vehicle’s center of gravity should be no closer than 1 inch in front of the rear axle.

Why is a heavier Pinewood Derby car faster?

Pinewood Derby Cars are powered by gravity. You start on a slope and the weight of the car pushes the car down the slope. A heavy car gets more thrust when going down the slope.

What type of glue should I use on my Pinewood Derby car?

Use superglue on accessories like roll bars, drivers, spoilers, etc. You don’t want these falling off! Only a small amount of super glue is needed to attach these parts to your car. Make sure the paint is completely dry.

Use a weaker adhesive on the axles so you can take them off if you need to make a repair or adjustment. Most wood glues work well for this. To glue the axles to your car, first insert the axles (with wheels) into the slots and check alignment. When everything looks good, turn the car over and apply a small amount of glue to the end of the axle. It’s important not to get any glue near the wheels. Glue isn’t usually needed if you’re using holes instead of slots.

More about our adhesives

What is the best design for the front of the car?

A narrow front can cause a delay in timing at the end of the track, so the front of the car should be flat and at least 1/2 inch wide. Raising the front of the car was an advantage, but that’s no longer the case with spring-loaded launch gates.

weights

What does a Pinewood Derby Car weigh?

What is the weight limit for Pinewood Derbies?

Most race rules limit the weight to 5 oz. For the greatest possible speed, your car should weigh as close to the limit as possible. If your racing rules don’t dictate a maximum weight, the optimal weight is 9 to 11 oz, depending on the type of wheels and axles used and the type of lubricant.

What weights are best for my car?

We offer a wide range of weights: Our plug-in and base weights can be divided into sections for exact weight adjustment.

The cylinder and wire weights can be attached to your car by drilling and inserting holes into the holes and then sealing with glue or wood putty.

The dome and triangle weights can be glued on top of the car.

The cube weights can be placed in cut out areas of the car.

We also have tungsten putty, adjustable weights and weights designed to attach to the underside of your car. Find out more about our weights for Pinewood Derby Cars

How can I optimize the weight of my car?

You can poke small nails into the back of the car (drill a pilot hole for each nail to prevent the block from breaking), but make sure the nails don’t stick out of the back of the pine wood derby car. They could cause the car to exceed the 7 inch limit. You can also drill a hole and put bees in the hole and then finish the hole with wood spatula.

Where to add weight to a Pinewood Derby car?

Where should I stress a Pinewood Derby Car?

Normally, weights should be placed as far back on the car as possible. When the car is complete, it should balance about 1 inch in front of the rear axle. To check the balance point, place a pencil across the bottom of the finished car and slide it back or forth until the car is balanced.

track

How long and wide is a pinewood derby course?

Track dimensions may vary slightly, but a typical track gauge is 3.5″ wide with a 1 5/8″ center guide rail. The guide rail is 1/4″ high.

Most courses for official races are 35 to 45 feet long. The beginning of the track is usually 45 to 50 inches off the ground.

We have an inexpensive track where you can test drive your car or host your own races. More about our pine forest derby track

Should I build my car differently if driving on a bumpy or rough track?

To minimize the chance of your car bouncing off a rough track, place the weights in the car so that the center of gravity is two inches in front of the rear axle. Your car will be a little slower but more stable.

Various questions

What month are Pinewood derby races held in?

Most Pinewood Derby Pack Races take place from January to March. The winners of the pack races advance to the district races, which usually take place from April to June.

What should I do with my car just before the race?

Bring a small clean rag to the race. Before you drop off your car, make sure the wheels still spin freely, then use the rag to wipe the wheels to ensure the tread area is clean.

Introduction When the first Pinewood Derby race was held in Manhattan Beach, California in 1953, one of the purest forms of competition was born. Put simply, who will build the fastest car to go down a straight track? Pinewood Derby has maintained its integrity over the years and has continued to provide children and parents with incredibly memorable moments while teaching important skills. In this article we will show you how to build a simple pinewood derby car that requires few tools and can be completed in the kitchen without making too much mess.

Below are the rules most Pinewood Derbies follow, referred to as “Rules in the Box”. It is very important to follow these rules because if even one is broken, you have a sad child on your hands. Not all Pinewood Derbies are created equal, so be sure to check the rules of your local Scout District/Council to see if anything is different.

Vehicle Specifications: Width: 2-3/4”; Length: 7 inches; Weight: Maximum 5 ounces; Width between wheels: 1-3/4” The car must have been manufactured in the current year (year in which the Derby takes place). Cars from previous years cannot be used. Wheel bearings, washers and bushings are prohibited. The car must not ride on springs. Only official Cub Scout Grand Prix Pinewood Derby wheels and axles are allowed. Only dry lubricant is permitted. Details such as the steering wheel and driver are acceptable as long as these details do not exceed the maximum length, width and weight specifications. The car must be freewheeling, without starting devices. Each car must pass inspection by the official inspection committee before being allowed to participate. If a vehicle fails inspection upon registration, the owner will be informed of the reason for the failure and given time to make the adjustment within the official weigh-in period. After final approval, cars will not be inspected again unless the car is damaged in handling or in a race.

If you want to build the ultimate Pinewood Derby car that is sure to win some races, click here for the tricks and tips to a winning car.

Many of the add ons/tools you need for a fast Derby car can be purchased online. Click on the article below for a link to our favorite products:

This post may contain affiliate links, which means we get a small commission if you make a purchase, which is free to you. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

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Looking for the ‘official’ BSA Pinewood Derby Rules for Cub Scouts? Learn all about the rules and controls with printable examples.

Did you know that there are no official Pinewood Derby rules for the Boy Scouts of America?

Although each car kit comes with a printed “Rules and Instructions” insert, these are suggested rules. Your pack’s race committee decides the official rules for the race.

However, if your pack winners can move on to compete in a district or council derby, you’ll probably want to use the rules for that event.

We did that in my pack. I would have hated if a Cub Scout who won our Pinewood Derby pack had come to our District Derby only to be disqualified because his or her car design didn’t follow District Derby rules.

Our pack bought an official Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit for each Cub Scout. These were usually handed out at our January team meeting along with a copy of our district rules.

We made sure our new Cub Scouts understood the importance of following district rules at our pack’s derby.

So if there are no official BSA Pinewood Derby rules, what are the recommended rules?

Check out these fun Pinewood Derby Award ideas!

Recommended Rules for Pinewood Derby

First, there are certain specifications for the car.

width 2 3/4″

Length – 7″

Weight – maximum 5 ounces

Width between wheels – 1 3/4″

Ground clearance between car and track – 3/8″

With this handy Revell Pinewood Derby wheel alignment tool you can perform 7 different checks on your car.

Next there are things that are allowed and forbidden on a Pinewood Derby car.

Wheel bearings, washers and bushings are prohibited.

The car must not ride on springs.

Only official Cub Scout Pinewood Derby wheels and axles are allowed.

Only dry lubricant is permitted.

Details such as the steering wheel and driver are acceptable as long as these details do not exceed the maximum length, width and weight specifications.

The car must be freewheeling, without starting devices.

Cars have to be checked.

Each car must pass inspection by the official inspection committee before being allowed to participate.

If a car fails inspection upon registration, the owner will be informed of the reason for the failure and given time to make adjustments within the official weigh-in period.

After final approval, cars will not be inspected again unless the car is damaged in handling or in a race.

And that’s it for the Recommended Pinewood Derby Rules.

But there are many other considerations. According to the Boys’ Life website, here are some of the questions you might want answered in your rules.

Does the car need to be built during this Pinewood Derby season? Or can racers reuse a car from previous years?

Is it ok to use a ready made car bought in a store or online?

Does your backpack have a height limit for cars?

Does it matter what materials the car is made of? Does the chassis have to be made of wood or can it be made of plastic or metal?

Is it okay to adjust the wheelbase (the distance between the front and rear wheels)?

Does the car have to have four wheels? Do they all have to touch the track?

Can the front of the car protrude beyond the start pin?

What settings are okay for the wheels? Can they be shaved, shaped or narrowed?

Can the axles be polished? Any axle length or diameter requirements?

Which lubricants are allowed?

Get all the tools and materials your Cub Scout will need to build their Pinewood Derby car at my Amazon store!

But these are not the only considerations. Your rules should address things like:

Are curved axles legal in Pinewood Derby?

Can you put weights on the floor of a Pinewood Derby car?

Does the scout have to wear his Class A uniform?

Can Webelos participate in the second year?

Check out these 17 ideas for Pinewood Derby treats to serve at your event!

Printable Pinewood Derby Rules

Here are some examples of printable Pinewood Derby rules that I’ve collected. You can use these as a resource when creating your own.

Pinewood Derby check in & inspections

Before your derby begins, you must check in and conduct inspections. Some packs will hold these the night before the derby, giving the scouts a chance to drive their cars before the official event. This is a great idea if you can leave the cars at your facility overnight.

You may wish to have an inspection checklist for your package. Here are three great examples.

My pack didn’t have a place to park the cars, so we had our check-in and inspection right before the derby started. Make sure you allow enough time for everyone to check in before the derby begins.

Our Cub Scouts lined up with their cars. Our inspection table was normally occupied by 3 people.

Here is the process we followed:

Person 1 checks the wheels to ensure they are official Scout Grand Prix wheels. If yes, person 1 weighs the car.

If the car weighs over 141.7 grams (5 ounces), Cub will be directed to the pit stop to drill or pry weight.

If the car weighs 141.7 grams (5 ounces) or less, the car will be given to Person 2 unless Cub Scout wishes to try to add some weight.

After the car has passed the weight and wheel check, it is handed over to person 2.

Person 2 measures car. Total length must not exceed 7 inches. Width (including wheels) must not exceed 2 ¾ inches. Minimum width between wheels is 1 ¾”. Minimum ground clearance is 3/8 inch and overall height cannot exceed 4 inches.

If the car passes the inspection, person 2 hands the car over to person 3.

Person 3 sticks a number sticker on the car and writes the number next to the boy’s name on the chart. Then they give the scouts a “pit pass”.

Person 3 gives the car to one of our scout helpers who puts it in the waiting area.

These fun (and free!) printable Pinewood Derby activities can help pass the time for the kids waiting.

We named our setting/table Pinewood Derby Pit Stop. There we had graphite, weights or a few pennies, scales, super glue, tape, wood files, basic hand tools, and a drill just for the parents to use for the boys to make adjustments.

One of our grandfathers was responsible for the table so he could help the Boy Scouts (and their parents) make any necessary adjustments. Since it was going to be very crowded, we also had some parents with us to help him.

Often a Boy Scout that crossed over would have graphite and weights that they no longer needed, so we asked their parents to donate their extras to the pack so we didn’t have to buy them.

I would like to add your pack’s rules to the examples in this post. Please email me a copy at [email protected]

Best regards from Scouting,

sherry

PS Check out all of my Pinewood Derby resources!

Results

Test 1: Baseline:

Car #1 average time: 3.249 seconds

Car #2 average time: 3.402 seconds

Car #3 average time: 3.214 seconds

The average time with just the weight added was 3.288 seconds. There was a gap of 0.188 seconds, about 23 inches, between the fastest and the slowest car.

Test 2: Stress:

1-10 average time: 3.391 seconds

11-20 average time: 3.317 seconds

21-30 average time: 3.318 seconds

31-40 average time: 3.319 seconds

41-50 average time: 3.320 seconds

Average total time: 3.333 seconds

After 50 races the car was on average about 9 inches faster than the first races (0.071 seconds). See grafic

Test 3: Graphite:

Car #1 average time: 2.974 seconds

Car #2 average time: 3.017 seconds

Car #3 average time: 2.992 seconds

The average time was 2.994 seconds, about 44 inches faster than without Graphite (0.353 seconds).

Test 4: Graphite exposure:

1-10 average time: 3.017 seconds

11-20 average time: 2.975 seconds

21-30 average time: 2.970 seconds

31-40 average time: 2.973 seconds

41-50 average time: 2.966 seconds

Average total time: 2.980 seconds

After 50 races, the car was an average of about 6 inches faster than when Graphite was first applied (0.51 seconds). See grafic

Test 5: Weight & Axle Position:

The car went fastest when the weight and wheels were at the back of the car. There was about a 4 inch difference when using different positions for the weight and wheels. See grafic

Test 6: Aerodynamics:

It was a lot slower with a 3×5 card in the car, about 46 inches. (0.372 seconds) Intersecting the car with a point at the front made it go about 5 inches faster (0.042 seconds). See grafic

Test 7: Wheels:

After grinding the wheels, the car went about 6 inches faster. By waxing the ground wheels it went an inch faster. Pushing the axles in to 1/16th of an inch made it almost another inch faster. But pushing the axles in to 1/32 inch made the car almost 2 inches faster on average (0.015 seconds). See grafic

Test 8: Alignment:

After aligning the wheels so the car rolled straight onto the table, the car went over 8 inches faster than before (0.068 seconds).

See grafic

(Conclusion)

The heavier your Pinewood Derby Car is, the faster it will go. Most racing rules limit weight to 5 ounces so you want your car to be as close to the limit as possible. The wedge block requires about 2.5 ounces of additional weight to bring it to the 5 ounce limit. You should install the weights in your car before painting it.

Before adding the weights to your car, place the car block, wheels, axles, and any other accessories you plan to add to your car on a scale. Then add the weights until the total is 5 ounces. (Paint adds very little to the weight of your car). When your car is ready, weigh it again. If it’s over 5 ounces, drill a few holes in the bottom of the block about 1 inch behind the front axle to remove some wood. Below are some suggestions for adding weight to your Pinewood Derby Car.

Zinc top weight

This aerodynamic weight weighs 2.2 ounces and easily mounts to the top of your car with the included screws. You will need: Aerodynamic weight Floor weight Glue Screwdriver Sand and paint your block but do not add wheels. When the paint has dried, mount the weight on top of your car as far back as possible. The weight should not extend beyond the rear of the vehicle. Glue floor weights to the bottom of the block to bring the total weight (including wheels and axles) to 5 ounces. Install part of the weight behind the rear axle and the rest in front of the axle. The weight can be disassembled with pliers. Do not mount over the axle.

Aerodynamic Weight $4.95 Aerodynamic Weight Bottom Weights $1.95 Bottom Weights Superglue $2.95 each Digital Scale $15.95 Scale To place your order: 1. Enter quantity next to each of the above items that you want to order.

2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below. 1. Enter the quantity you wish to order next to each of the above items.2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below.

lead wire weights

Lead is cheap, dense, and easy to work with, but lead is toxic. Always use gloves when handling lead and make sure no lead is exposed after installing it in the block. When weighing the car and weights, use three weights of approximately equal length. You can cut the weights with a hacksaw, coping saw, or wire cutters. You will need: A set of lead wire weights Drill and 5/16″ drill bit Wood spatula Sandpaper Hacksaw, coping saw, or wire cutters. Lay the car block face down on a flat surface (meaning you are laying it face down) making sure the weight holes of the follow the slope of the top of the block). Clamp the block to the surface. Using a 5/16″ drill bit, drill three equally spaced holes directly into the back of the block, 3/8″ from the top of the block. The Depth of the holes should be slightly deeper than the length of the weights. Remove the clamp from the block. Insert the weights into the holes. The end of each weight should be at least 1/8″ deep the end of the block. This leaves room for the wooden spatula. Drill the holes deeper if necessary. Reweigh the block, wheels, axles and weights. Adjust weight amount to 5 ounces if needed. Seal the weight holes with the wooden spatula. Leave to dry in a warm place for 12 hours. Sand the wood filler until it is smooth and flush with the car block. Now you can paint your pine derby car and add the wheels and axles. If the finished car is less than 5 oz. Drill one or more shallow holes in the bottom of the car behind the rear axle and insert some of the leftover lead weight into the holes. Don’t drill so deep that you drill into the other weights. Seal with a wooden spatula.

lead wire weights 3 oz. Total weight $3.95 3 oz. Wire weights 3 oz. Total weight Wood Body Putty $2.95 each. 5/16″ Drill Bit $2.95 Drill Bit Digital Scale $15.95 Scale To place your order: 1. Enter the quantity you want to order next to each item listed above.

2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below. 1. Enter the quantity you wish to order next to each of the above items.2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below.

tungsten weights

Tungsten is very dense but more expensive than the other weights. The density gives you a speed advantage as more weight can be placed further back on the car. You can use a combination of cylinders and a flat weight for best results.

Reduce Fine Tune weight to bring your car to the 5 ounce limit. You will need: Four tungsten cylinders A tungsten plate A fine adjustment cylinder Drill and 3/8-inch drill bit Wood putty knife Sandpaper Screwdriver Clamp the pine derby block onto a flat surface. Using a 3/8″ bit, drill two holes straight into the back of the block high enough so that you don’t drill into the axle slot. The depth of the holes should be enough to hold the cylinders. Remove the clamp from the block. Insert the weights into the holes. The end of the weights should protrude at least 1/8 inch into the end of the block. This leaves room for the wooden spatula. Drill the holes deeper if necessary. The fine tune weight can also fit in these holes or you can drill a hole in the bottom of the block in front of the rear axle for this weight. Reweigh the block, wheels, axles and weights (don’t forget the flat weight). Adjust the amount of Fine Tune weight if necessary. Use the wood putty to weigh down holes. Leave to dry in a warm place for 12 hours. Sand the wood putty until it is smooth and flush with the car block. Paint your car and add the wheels and axles.

When the paint has dried and the wheels are on the car, it’s time to mount the flat weight. Place a pencil under and over the car, 1 inch in front of the rear axle. This is where the car should balance. Place the flat weight on top of the car and rock it back and forth until the car is balanced on the pencil. This is where the flat weight should be placed under the block. Attach the flatweight with the screw provided (Some rules do not allow covering the axle slots. Check your rules before mounting the flatweight and adjust the placement of the weight if necessary). When the paint has dried and the wheels are on the car, it’s time to mount the flat weight. Place a pencil under and over the car, 1 inch in front of the rear axle. This is where the car should balance. Place the flat weight on top of the car and rock it back and forth until the car is balanced on the pencil. This is where the flat weight should be placed under the block. Attach the flatweight with the screw provided (Some rules do not allow covering the axle slots. Check your rules before mounting the flatweight and adjust the placement of the weight if necessary).

Tungsten Cylinder SOLD OUT Fine Tune Cylinder $1.45 Fine Tune Cylinder Tungsten Plate $2.95 Tungsten Plate Digital Scale $15.95 Scale 3/8″ Spade Bit $2.95 Drill Bit Wood Body Spatula $2.95 each To place your order: 1. Enter quantity desired order one alongside each of the above items.

2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below. 1. Enter the quantity you wish to order next to each of the above items.2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below.

Tungsten Canopy

The tungsten canopy is attached to the top of the pine wood derby car. The canopy has a bolt to hold it in place. A 3/8 inch hole is drilled in the top of the block for the bolt. A Fine Tune weight can be added to bring your car to the 5 ounce limit 3/8″ drill bit. Superglue or epoxy.

1. Draw a straight line down the center of the top of the block with a pencil.

2. Position the hood on the midline near the back. Place two wheels and axles on top of the car just above the front axle slot. Place a pencil across the bottom of the block and 1 inch in front of the rear axle. Move the canopy along the center line until the car balances on the pencil. This is where you want to mount the canopy.

3. Use the pencil to mark the canopy stud. This is where the hole should be drilled to mount the canopy. 3. Use the pencil to mark the canopy stud. This is where the hole should be drilled to mount the canopy.

4. Drill a 3/8″ hole perpendicular to the slope of the top of the car where you marked the canopy stud. Use a credit or business card to align the angle of the drill. Place one edge of the card on the center line. The drill should line up with the other edge of the card. Drill the hole 1/2″ deep. Test the canopy in the drilled hole. The bottom of the top should be flush with the top of the car. 5. Remove the top and paint your car. Allow the paint to dry. 6 Glue the hood to the roof of the car with superglue or epoxy 7. Place the block, wheels and axles on a scale If the weight is over 5 ounces, drill holes in the bottom of the block between the two Axle slots until weight is 5 oz. If weight is under 5 oz. Drill one or more holes in the bottom of the car just in front of the rear axle and insert enough Fine Tune weight to bring your car to 5 oz Glue the weight in the hole 8. Add the wheels and axles to your Pinewood Derby Car.

– Special item – changing the wheelbase

– Pinewood Derby Car Showcase

– Questions and answers

Changing the wheelbase

by Randy Davis

(An update of an article originally published on December 11, 2002).

It’s not entirely clear to me how the various organizations determined the location of the axle slots on their kits. Years ago, the BSA wheelbase1 was longer than the current 4-3/8″ on today’s kits. Awana kits choose to be different, using a roughly four-inch wheelbase. Other organizations and equipment manufacturers use slightly different measurements.

Unfortunately, none of the current standard wheelbases are really the best for speed and alignment. The best wheelbase for driving straight ahead is always the longest possible wheelbase. Fuel dragsters’ top competitors know this, as evidenced by the rail dragster’s design. Not only is the wheelbase very long, but the car is also very long.

Top petrol dragster

Why extend the wheelbase?

For Pinewood Derby cars, increasing the wheelbase provides an advantage for the following reasons:

On ramp flat tracks2, the best speed is achieved by moving the vehicle’s center of gravity (COG) as far back as possible while maintaining stability (typically this is about 1 inch forward of the rear axle). Moving the rear axle as far back as possible also allows the COG to be moved back, increasing performance. The longer the wheelbase, the greater the turning distance (a short car will turn much faster than a long car). A Pinewood Derby Car should run as straight as possible, so a longer wheelbase is an advantage.

Assuming a seven inch maximum length and approximately 1-1/4 inch diameter wheels, the best placement for the axles is 11/16 inches from the front and rear of the car. This offsets the wheels slightly inward, protecting the front wheels from sudden stops. If you are allowed to use a long wheelbase, I describe how to modify the block to achieve that wheelbase under “Method 2” below.

Check your local rules

However, before making any modifications to your wheelbase, be sure to check your local regulations. In general, the rules provide one of the following:

No Choice – The wheelbase of the kit must be used, and the position of the slots on the block must be maintained. In this case, make sure you use the slot closest to the end of the block as the rear axle slot. Choice 1 – Wheelbase Restricted: The wheelbase of the kit must be retained, but the location of the slots on the block is not restricted. That is, the distance between the axes must be maintained, but the slots can be moved at will. Option 2 – No restrictions: The wheelbase can be adjusted as desired.

If option one is available, consider method 1. If option two is available, consider method 2.

method 1

Method 1 keeps the existing wheelbase, but moves the wheelbase back as far as possible. This can be accomplished by drilling new axle holes, cutting new axle slots, or using the existing slots. If you want to drill new holes or cut new slots, position the rear axle 11/16 inches from one end of the car. Then position the front axle a distance from the rear slot equal to the wheelbase on the original block (or the maximum allowed by the rules). See the following sections for tips on drilling/cutting new axle holes/slots.

If you choose to use the existing slots, then measure from an axle slot to the nearest end of the car and draw a line 11/16 inch from the axle slot. Use a saw to cut through the car at this line. Then glue the removed piece to the opposite end of the car

The block now has the rear axle slot 11/16″ from the rear of the car, allowing the COG to be moved further back.

method 2

Method 2 creates the optimal wheelbase by creating new holes/slots 11/16 inches from the ends of the car.

Cutting New Axle Slots If power tools are not available, new axle slots can be cut using a ruler, a square (Combination or Carpenter’s), and two hacksaw blades.

Use the ruler to make marks on the block 11/16 inches from each end of the block. You’ll probably want to do this on the side of the block opposite the existing slots. Using the square at the pencil marks, draw a line across the block. On the sides of the block, also using the pencil marks made in step 2, make a pencil mark at the depth of the original axle slots. Clamp the block with the axis lines facing up. Mount two hacksaw blades in the hacksaw frame. Pinch the blades together in the center with a binding clip. Saw the new axle slots. Make sure the cuts are exactly on the axis lines and the cuts go no deeper than the marks on the side of the block.

Drilling New Axle Holes A more accurate method of creating an extended wheelbase is to drill axle holes. This can be done with a power drill or with the Pro-Body Tool and a hand drill or a pin vise.

drill press method

The following tools are required for the drill press method:

drilling machine

Drill (#44 for BSA axles, 3/32 for Awana axles, other kits are similar but always drill a test hole in a piece of wood to ensure your axles fit properly)

ruler

On each side of the block, make a pencil mark 11/16 inch from each end of the block and 1/8 inch from the bottom of the block. If a front wheel is being lifted, make a pencil mark on the left side of the block 11/16″ from the front of the block and 3/16″ from the bottom of the block. Insert the drill about 1 inch freely into the drill chuck and set the drill depth to about 7/8 inch. Place the chunk of wood right side up on the drill platform. Use a drill press fence to ensure all holes are drilled the same distance from the bottom of the block. Drill the hole for the front and rear axles on the right side of the block. Then repeat for the other side of the block.

Pro body tool method

The following tools are required:

hand drill

Drill (#44 for BSA axles, 3/32 for Awana axles, other kits are similar but always drill a test hole in a piece of wood to ensure your axles fit properly)

ruler

Clamp – C or rod type

Optional – Square (combination or joiner)

How to use the pro body tool:

Test Fit – Test fit the Pro-Body tool to the bottom of the block with the two “ears” positioned on the sides of the block. If the block is too wide for the tool, use coarse grit sandpaper to decrease the width of the block until the tool is snug on the block. If the block is too narrow for the tool, place a piece of paper – folded as many times as needed – between an eyelet of the tool and the block so the tool fits snugly against the block. Mark the Block – Make a pencil mark 11/16 inch from each end of the block. Extend the marks from the bottom of the block to the top of the block with a square (or measure and mark near the bottom of the block and near the top of the block and then connect the line with a pencil and ruler) . Clamp Tool and Drill – Position the tool on the underside of the car with the two “ears” on the sides of the block. Align the index marks with the line on the block. Clamp the tool, use paper if necessary, to ensure a tight fit (see step 2). Holding the block firmly against a work surface, position the drill bit in the desired hole and drill 3/4 inch into the block. Without releasing the clamp, turn the tool and block over and drill the second hole. Repeat for the other 2 holes (or one hole and then drill the raised wheel).

Conclusion

Increasing the wheelbase can be a key benefit for your car. So, if your local regulations allow, don’t miss out on this performance advantage.

1Wheelbase – The distance from the center of the front wheel to that of the rear wheel on a motor vehicle, usually expressed in inches – from the American Heritage Dictionary of the English language.

2A ramp flat track starts on a slope and then turns into a long flat section.

Pinewood Derby Car Showcase

Some great looking models of real (or almost real) vehicles.

Mini Cooper – Leon Dixon

Our Mini Cooper Club has our own Pinewood Derby Type race. We have been using your MV Car Kits for four years now. Our event has grown so much we almost don’t know what to do with it! You can read a bit about it at: minisonthedragon.com/draggin_dragons.php

(There is a typo on this page, this is actually our 4th time running the event).

Stock car by Jeff Gordon – Tim & Elisabeth Stephens

We had a great time working on this car. We like Jeff Gordon and when we saw your idea of ​​making one we jumped at it. Velocity axles and wheels are from Maximum Velocity. I used your tips to dress it up with decals from a model kit I bought online. Some automotive pinstripes on the window decals you supplied really added detail to the finished project. Elisabeth won all of her heat races and when they added up all the age group winners, including the adult winner, she beat them all. Whoo, hoo – great fun for everyone! Thanks for all your advice and products.

School Bus – Nathan & Brenden Paul

This is my son’s Pinewood Derby school bus. Although it wasn’t the fastest (6th out of 24), it took home the ‘Best School Theme Car’ trophy.

Swipe – David Bodoh

In the Transformers 2 movie, there is a Corvette Stingray called Sideswipe. I challenged myself to turn it into a derby car (just the car, not the robot). It took 3 attempts, but ultimately the main block had to be cut into 7 pieces to be molded separately and then reassembled (roof, hood scoop, four fenders and the body). There are even four exhaust pipes in the back. We rode it in our pack’s family race at the Pinewood Derby and it finished the second fastest run of the day. Speed ​​and design – just like the real car.

questions and answers

Is a standard wedge design too heavy to use a 3.5 oz cap? Am I better off with a 2.5oz cap if I plan to use a wedge, or is it better in terms of speed to go with a thinner design and a 3.5oz cap?

Generally, a wedge is too heavy to carry the 3.5 ounce cap, so you would have to use the 2.5 ounce version. All other things being equal (wheels, axles, lube, alignment – all important factors), a lower profile body tends to perform better. To use the 3.5cm canopy, the body must weigh less than 1 ounce.

I’ve used Hob-E-Lube in the past and now we’re using your Max-V-Lube. I used to soak the wheels and axles in the graphite with a sandwich bag. Do you recommend doing this with your lube before fitting the axles and wheels to the car?

I don’t think there’s any benefit to soaking the wheels/axles in graphite. The goal is to build up a graphite coating in the bore of the wheel. This is done by repeatedly applying graphite and spinning.

I noticed that Revell markets “officially licensed” Pinewood Derby wheels. These wheels look identical to the stock BSA wheel. I was wondering if these wheels are the exact same wheels that come in the BSA PWD kits or if Revell makes their own wheels.

Originally I believe Revell sold official BSA wheels. However, I heard from several people that Revell is now having their own wheels made in China. The quality of the fakes doesn’t seem to be as good as the ‘official’ BSA wheels. I have not been able to independently confirm this information. When I recently bought a set of Revell rims, it still said “Made in USA”. However, a customer just sent me this photo of a wheel made in the US and one made in China:

want answers

Have a question about Pinewood Derby? Then email us your question. We answer all questions via email, but not every question appears in the Q&A section of the newsletter.

Previous problems

Are you a new subscriber or have you missed some of the previous newsletters? Do not miss; All issues for volume 5 to volume 17 will be published on our website.

newsletter posts

We look forward to your contributions. If you have an article, website review, speed tip or Pinewood Derby memory you would like to contribute, please email us.

Subscription Information

The Pinewood Derby Times is a free e-newsletter focused on Pinewood Derby racing. It is published bi-weekly from October to March.

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SAFETY FIRST: Ask an adult for help with tools you have never used.

Packs across the country prepare to hold their annual Pinewood Derby. There are many ways to make your Pinewood Derby car go faster. Here are some of them.

Basic guidelines for the design of Pinewood Derby Cars

The possibilities are endless when it comes to choosing a shape for your Pinewood Derby car. Before you begin, consider the following general guidelines:

Avoid designs with a pointed nose. A pointed nose makes it difficult for your Pinewood Derby car to rest on the pin at the starting gate. It can also cause your Pinewood Derby car to bounce around when the needle drops and can cause problems for electronic timing systems.

Leave enough lumber in the rear of the Pinewood Derby car so you can place extra weight there. You will end up putting the most weight on the rear of the Pinewood Derby car.

Do the maximum weight. Your car should weigh as much as is allowed. At most races, the weight of a Pinewood Derby car is limited to 5 ounces. If your car weighs less, add coins or other weights.

Make sure it is clear which end of your Pinewood Derby car is in the front and which is in the back. In fact, at many races, the race officials – not you – put every Pinewood Derby car on the track. Sometimes the officials put the Pinewood Derby car backwards on the track because they can’t tell which end is which.

Choose a design that allows air to flow smoothly over and around the Pinewood Derby body. Pinewood Derby cars with aerodynamic profiles drive faster.

Click here for photo galleries of hundreds of Pinewood Derby car designs.

Design and build a winning Pinewood Derby car

You don’t have to strive for the fastest Pinewood Derby car to have fun competing in your Pinewood Derby. But if you and a helpful adult are willing to put in the extra time and effort, these tips are for you.

1. Bake the Block: Start with your block of wood and before you do anything else, bake it in the oven at 250 degrees for about two hours to remove moisture and lighten it. This allows you to put more weight on the rear of the Pinewood Derby car where you actually want it.

2. Create the design: Trace the outline of your Pinewood Derby car onto a piece of paper, cut it out and attach it to your block of wood.

Remember that a rectangular car is not an aerodynamic design. The most basic aerodynamic design is a simple wedge. If you don’t have time to design a complex car, a wedge will work just fine.

Click here to download a Pinewood Derby Car PDF Template to use to create your design.

3. Rough Cut Design: Use a coping saw to cut out the rough shape of your Pinewood Derby car. You can also ask a responsible adult to make these cuts with a power tool.

4. Shape your car: Use sandpaper to smooth the edges of your car and shape it to your design. An adult can also help you with a rotary tool or other tool.

5. Sand and paint the Pinewood Derby Car: Make it smooth to reduce friction and paint a great design to make it look great.

Click here for tips on painting your Pinewood Derby car to give it a lustrous finish.

6. Install axles and wheels: Make sure they are absolutely straight. You can test the alignment of your axles by pushing your car across a smooth floor or table. It should roll smoothly in a straight line.

— Make a tricycle: Raise one wheel about 1/16 inch higher so it never really touches the track. Less friction = more speed. Rules vary from pack to pack, so be sure to check your pack’s Pinewood Derby rules to ensure tricycles are allowed in your race.

— Extend the wheelbase: the front and rear wheels should be as far apart as possible. Again, make sure this is allowed in your race.

Click here to learn more about polishing Pinewood Derby axles and wheels to reduce friction.

7. Create Glue Holes: Glue the axles firmly into their holes to ensure they fit perfectly, but be careful not to get any glue on your wheels.

8. Add Weight: Remember to make your Pinewood Derby car as heavy as the rules allow. In general it is best to put the weight on the rear of your car as a heavier rear increases speed.

Click here for scientific Pinewood Derby speed tips from a former NASA engineer

9. Lubricate the wheel arch: add graphite or other dry lubricant to reduce friction. The less friction between body and wheel, the better.

Finally, remember that Rule #1 of a Pinewood Derby is to have fun. While you should always strive to do your best, don’t lose yourself in winning or having the fastest car. Just enjoy the ride.

Based on the book “Pinewood Derby Speed ​​Secrets”, DK Publishing, softcover for $12.95.

The Black PRO Car is our fastest Pinewood Derby Car. It pushes the speed limit! It’s a race-bred car, fitted with our race-bred, low-friction, graphite-coated BSA Ultra-Lite wheels and PRO BSA graphite-coated grooved axles. This car is built using official BSA parts from the Cub Scout Pinewood Derby Car Kit. The BSA block has standard wheel spacing to comply with all rules. The axles are inserted into the pre-drilled axle slots to comply with BSA rules. You must use Pinewood Pro dry powder graphite to lubricate your axles to achieve top speeds. DO NOT use Nyoil on these axles to ensure this car is compliant. Ask your race director if you have any questions as all rules are unique to your particular race!)

This product has been tested by an independent laboratory and has received a Children’s Product Certification by passing the relevant CPSIA (Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act) tests.

5.0 out of 5 The car actually looks great, but unfortunately everything has been postponed for the time being, hopefully I can drive it soon. Ruben R. March 24, 2020

5.0 out of 5 Place 3 out of 60+ cars, great product matthew c March 14, 2020

1.0 out of 5 Wheels failed and car did not place Sara H March 08, 2020

5.0 out of 5 In a few weeks I’ll let you know how we’re going to compete, times and places in the race. Good luck Phillip S, March 03, 2020

5.0 out of 5 Awesome Stuart S 28 Jan 2020

5.0 out of 5 Haven’t raced yet but looks fast Edward D January 28, 2020

5.0 out of 5 Haven’t had our races yet. Hopefully he wins at least once as Bearscout this year. Tiffany P. January 12, 2020

5.0 out of 5 A proven winner Tom S September 24, 2019

5.0 out of 5 CHAMPION Fastest car in the Derby. Won every run and set two course records. A happy 7 year old. Josh April 12, 2019

5.0 out of 5 Great car, fast. Clayton S March 27, 2019

5.0 out of 5 We won 1st place, great car Tyson B March 24, 2019

5.0 out of 5 Car Car was well built and looks good. I don’t know how fast it is. The meeting is on February 23, 2019. Ruben R. March 22, 2019

5.0 out of 5 Super fast Michael A March 16, 2019

5.0 out of 5 3rd place in a race with the car out of the pits! Jonathan T. March 10, 2019

5.0 out of 5 Very fast car. This car runs very fast right out of the box. All you have to do is apply graphite lube and race. John B. February 10, 2019

5.0 out of 5 Can’t wait to ride it! Paul M. 02/09/2019

5.0 out of 5 Worked great!! I really enjoyed this derby car racer on January 28, 2019

5.0 out of 5 Great value for money Car was well done and took first place in our squad competition. The description on the website was correct and the car worked as described. We weren’t expecting first place, just a good performance and were pleasantly surprised at how well the car performed. Michael Kaselis J January 20, 2019

5.0 out of 5 All smoked! Very smart good looking car. Perfect for adding decals to customize. Beat every other car by several car lengths. Well packaged for shipping. Jeff February 18, 2017

5.0 out of 5 Incredible The only negative is that District Rolls do not allow a car to go on three wheels. Somehow I need to modify Lightning f 01 Feb 2017

2.0 out of 5 Xxx Looks Fast Looks as of 28 January 2017

5.0 out of 5 We won everything! We made this for our grandson “Ryder” (he is 4 years old). We won everything, the age group, the race between the age group winners and the final, which included the adult group winner. Thank you PINEWOOD PRO, you really know what you are doing. . . We’ll be back for sure! Jack March 11, 2016

4.0 out of 5 Second Place Car Not sure what happened to the car in all its races but finished second in the derby ???? The average mph was lower than a car that beat it??? Disappointed on February 26, 2016

5.0 out of 5 Absolutely the BEST!!! What more can I say… To summarize, my son has won all races at the cave, pack and even district level. I can’t be happier to see that big smile on his face as he holds the trophy at the end of the race!! Manuel 02/09/2016

5.0 out of 5 Pro Car The glossy finish of the car was immaculate. and the shipping box was very well protected. This car is a real eye-catcher both on and off the track. no less than a full length ahead of the fastest car at our meeting. employed on February 20, 2015

5.0 out of 5 Great Derby Car 3.1 second car. It was the second fastest car with over 60 entries. It was exactly what I had hoped for. New derby on January 30, 2015

5.0 out of 5 Undefeated Car! The car arrived very well packaged. The paintwork and overall quality of the car is just fantastic! The car did 3 practice runs and 4 heat runs and never lost! Set the course record and set the 3 fastest times of the whole day. Great purchase as my son was awarded the Pinewood Derby Champion! Thank you for taking so much pride in making such a great product! Fastest on the T January 26, 2015

5.0 out of 5 1st place win very nice kids were jelousewo snake 09 Apr 2014

5.0 out of 5 FAST! The car won first place! By far the fastest car in the GS Powder Puff Race. Everything was professionally completed, even the package was thought through and very well done. If you are looking for the complete car this is it. Powder P 04/01/2014

5.0 out of 5 Dad’s Best Friend This car only lost one race in 20 attempts. My son set 3 course records! The organizers of the event, the new car, were quick and “inspected” the car throughout the day. Only in the finale did the car lose, and then only by 0.004 seconds. My son was so happy that words cannot describe it. Thank you Joe for saving my bacon and giving my son this wonderful experience. Black night, February 19, 2014

5.0 out of 5 Super Fast This car was undoubtedly the fastest on our circuit. It beat the record beaten by Black Lighting

5.0 out of 5 Pro Auto I bought this car to save time and because I also wanted my son to be happy. This car took 1st place in the pack and continues to move to the districts. This car actually took 1st place without my adding graphite… I’ll defiantly add some for districts. from the clap of thunder 07.02.2014

5.0 out of 5 Great Car The car finished 3rd overall. The best time was 2.952 and the car that finished 1st was 2.908. This was also on an aluminum rail. Mavrick January 27, 2014

5.0 out of 5 Perfect Day Last year I built a car and we won my nephew division but not the overall. I wanted to win everything. So I bought the fastest car from your website. We won first place in his division and overall. No other car came within a car’s length of us. All I did was attach a Lego Darth Vader, a sticker and your graphite to the axles. We had a perfect day. We went 6 for 6! Thank you for developing such a great product!! Darth L January 25, 2014

5.0 out of 5 We WON! Beautiful car We have an annual adults only event and the competition is fierce. Kept this secret until race registration and won every race, on every track, every time. Black W March 23, 2015

5.0 out of 5 Blacklighting Blacklighting won first place in the district and set a new course record with a speed of 208.1 mph. It ran so fast that it jumped the track at the finish line. My son was so happy with the way it was doing that he now wants to play with it all the time. Hunter Boy car name Black L March 20, 2015

5.0 out of 5 The best. . As a disabled person I am unable to do the delicate work required to make a good Pinewood Derby car. And while I was dying to compete, I decided to take a chance and buy a pre-built car. It was worth every penny. The car arrived in perfect condition and exactly as described. I took it out of the box, taped it up and broke 2 course records. Of course I won the derby against 38 rivals but beat the fastest car by more than 5/10s. (Huge margin) !! The car also won every race !! This car is pure speed and beauty in one box… and 100% legal. Pinewood Pro is simply the best and I would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a professional car that can’t build one themselves. Thank you guys. ..for exceeding all expectations. The boss on race day! November 28, 2014

5.0 out of 5 Best buy ever! We really ran out of time this year to work on our own car, but this car saved our parents’ lives! It took first place in our pack derby and third place in the district derby! Worth every penny! AngryBirdMom May 24, 2014

5.0 out of 5 Great Car Due to lack of adequate build space and tools I made the decision to purchase this car for my son’s Cub Scout Pack Derby. The car worked perfectly. My son has won every single race he has entered. He also took 1st place for the overall pack derby. He will soon go to the districts. I expect the car to do as well or better. Super D February 04, 2013

5.0 out of 5 Like to WIN I knew we bought the right car when I opened the package. I put this BLACK BEAUTY on the dining table and she started rolling on a flat surface. The best part is that it was the fastest car on race day. Racer 1 January 31, 2013

5.0 out of 5 1st place – finally! Arrived professionally packaged. Looked very impressive! Both father and son are happy to add additional personalizations such as stickers. It won every run. First place with one mile. It was the first time in 5 years of racing with two kids that we didn’t come close to finishing last. A BIG EGO BOOST TO END OUR BOYS CAREER. THANKS! Pursuit #1 August 31, 2012

5.0 out of 5 PRO car is a winner! This car is awesome! It may look like a simple car, but it flies! We won 1st place 10 times. This car was by far the fastest. February 23, 2012

5.0 out of 5 Perfect! It’s just what I needed! I can’t wait to race! John L. March 05, 2022

5.0 out of 5 N/A Jeremiah D February 27, 2022

5.0 out of 5 We had 25 other cars. I took the car out of the box and won 8 races in a row. typically 0.9 seconds faster than anyone else. that’s about 60% faster. Reached speeds of 234 on a when time speed clock I applied 1 ounce of putty to the car. We had no Wioeght Resptritions Bill P 07 March 2022

4.0 out of 5 With some packs, not only 3 wheels are allowed to touch. Would be nice if the fourth wheel was adjustable. Jeremiah W February 13, 2022

5.0 out of 5 Gave me time back Jesse R 05 Jan 2022

Pinewood Derby Rules

Sully District PWD Rules Perpetual 2018 (PDF)

SULLY NEIGHBORHOOD

PINEWOOD DERBY

EVENT RULES AND PROCEDURES (2018 Version)

The purpose of this document is to provide a fair and level playing field for all participants. Please read and follow the instructions and rules! Good luck and have fun!!

Rules

Construction: Cars must be constructed using official BSA Grand Prix Pinewood Derby parts. The use of prefabricated wheels, axles and bodies is prohibited. The wheels are mounted on the Grand Prix axle studs. The axle nails must be firmly connected to the wooden block. The entire car must be behind the starting line (pin) on the track. Details such as the steering wheel, driver, decals, paintwork and interior are allowed and must be firmly attached. Vehicles that create loose dirt on the track may be disqualified.

Cars in this competition must have been manufactured for that racing season. Basically, this year’s cars have to be built from new materials (body, wheels and axles) that are included in the official Pinewood Derby kit, however parts of cars, such as e.g. B. weights, can be reused from previous years.

Suspension: The car must not ride on any springs or suspension.

Starting aids: The car must be freewheeling and must not contain any devices that enable a faster start. The leading edge of the car must be wood and at least ½ inch wide to rest against the starting gate peg (in the center of its lane). The leading edge of the wheels must be behind the nose of the car (100% of the car behind the launch pad).

Length: The car must not be longer than 7 1/8 inches.

Width: Car must not be wider than 2 3/4 inches.

Height: The car must not be taller than 3 1/8 inches. (This limitation is due to the height of the finish line.)

Weight: The finished car must weigh no more than 5.0 ounces. The weight shown on the official scale (Blue Pinewood Derby® Scale, Scoutstuff.org item number 16989) during the pre-race inspection is final. To increase the weight of the car, only wood, plastic or metal can be added. Weights must be passive (non-movable, non-magnetic, non-electric, non-stick, etc.). For safety reasons, the use of mercury is prohibited. Bottom mounted weights must be recessed into the floor of the vehicle so they do not contact the track stop zone, meet ground clearance requirements (3/8 inch) and have no sharp edges that may damage the vehicle track .

Wheel Placement: Body must be at least 1 3/4 inches wide at axles. It must be at least 3/8 inch off the ground. The wheelbase (distance between the front and rear axles) must not be changed compared to the kit distance of 4 3/8 inches. The official kit block has pre-cut slots that are correctly spaced. If desired, these slots can be pre-drilled prior to use. However, it is not necessary to use the pre-cut slots.

Wheels and Axles: Use only official Grand Prix wheels and axles (including BSA colored wheelsets). You can deburr and polish the axles. The wheels can be sanded lightly to remove the mold seam on the tread and the hub can be trued. Other wheel changes are not allowed. You must not use hubcaps, washers, inserts, sleeves, bearings or coatings. All four wheels must be in contact with the ground and CANNOT BE CURVED IN OR OUT TO RIDE ON THE EDGE OF THE WHEEL.

Lubrication: Only dry powdered lubricants (e.g. graphite) may be used. Once the vehicle has been checked and approved, no more lubricant may be applied. Scouts who qualify are allowed to re-grease their cars before the final championship race. ALL graphite relubrication MUST take place outside of the building and not in the designated “pit area”. Scouts must provide their own lubricants.

Race Markings: There should be a 1 1/2″ x 1/2″ name tag on the underside and a 3/4″ round number plate to be placed on top of the car by race officials during the race tag for identification.

race procedures

Eligibility: Scouts who place 1st, 2nd and 3rd for their rank (Lion, Tiger, Wolf, Bear, Webelos, Arrow of Light) in a Sully District Pack race will qualify for the Sully District PWD and are encouraged to attend this event. Arrow of Light Scouts who have already transitioned to Boy Scouts are still eligible for this event if they have placed as a Cub Scout at the pack level. (NOTE: If a placed Scout is unable to participate, please select another Scout for the contest to encourage maximum participation.) Only one car may be registered by each Scout. Scouts compete in intra-rank competitions. Pre-assigned “race numbers” determine the races for each car, based on a race table optimized for the size of the field.

Dress Code: Entering Scouts are encouraged to appear in Class A uniform. Short sleeves are recommended. Scouts and Scout leaders observing the competition are required to wear uniform.

Eligibility Requirements: In general, Scouts must be present to compete. Cars are not accepted for delivery. In the event of illness or personal and family emergencies, a Scout may be represented by an authorized representative. An authorized agent is defined as a sibling or Cub Scout who is not already in the same ranked competition. All requests for Authorized Agent eligibility must be made prior to race day and are subject to approval by the Scout’s Den Leader. This is known as a ‘proxy’ race and MUST be approved by the Chairman of the Sully District Pinewood Derby (we had 3 proxy racers in 2018).

Classes: The participants will be divided into 6 groups according to their rank. Lions, Tigers, Wolves, Bears, Webelos, and Arrow of Light will compete with others in rank. The top three (3) finishers from each tier will be eligible to compete in the final championship race. The district championship race will be the last race of this event.

Registration: An early online registration is available to all participants before the race day. On race day, the scout must be present for check-in and inspection of his car prior to the start time of his race; Race officials assign specific check-in times to each ranked race. Early check-in arrangements may be made for participants who are unavailable during their assigned rank for check-in and inspection. Due to the computer entry and timing process, the acceptance of late entries is at the sole discretion of the race committee.

Vehicle Marking and Identification: The official starting label and the vehicle number assigned by the race director must remain on the vehicle for the duration of the derby.

Inspection: All cars should be delivered in “Race Ready” condition. All glue and paint should be dry. Each car must pass a technical inspection by race officials before being allowed to compete.

Re-Inspection: If a car fails the inspection, the scout will be informed of the reason their car failed and the scout can make changes to their car in the designated “pit-zone” to comply with the rules. The submission for the re-examination must be made before the end of the registration and examination period.

Inspection Gauges: The ‘Inspection and Registration’ area on race day will have the official weigh-in and inspection gauges. The official weight is only determined on race day as it can be affected by the weather. Scouts should be prepared to make adjustments to their cars if necessary.

Impoundment: After a car is registered and passes inspection, it will be impounded by race officials until all races are completed. No car may be altered after it has been impounded.

The Race Area: The race area includes the track, registration, inspection, confiscation and scoring tables. Only race officials are allowed to enter the race area. This rule is strictly enforced.

Race Management: The race officials are responsible for the proper running of the races and the administration of the evaluation software.

Vehicle Lineup: Race officials are responsible for having the vehicles ready at the start line when the vehicles are announced for each heat. It is up to the scout racer (or parent) to announce BEFORE the race that their car has been placed backwards onto the track as some cars are difficult to distinguish front to back (we had one car in all his races in 2018 that drove backwards).

Lane Assignment: To compensate for differences between track lanes, each car is driven in each lane on the track. Based on the number of race participants.

Scoring: The race score for each class is based on the elapsed time for each car (from lowest to highest). The elapsed time is the sum of the race times (the travel time from the start gate to the electronic finish line) minus the slowest race time (the worst time is discarded).

Non-Finisher: During a heat, if a car does not cross the finish line on the track and was not interfered with, that car will be given a time of 9.999 seconds for that heat.

Car Leaves Lane: If a car leaves its lane during a race, but travels the course in a way that does not interfere with its opponent, the race is declared normally. If the car leaves its lane and interferes with another car, the race is re-run and repeated. If the same car leaves its lane again and interferes with another car, that car will be given a time of 9.999 seconds and the race will be re-run and repeated without that car.

Car Off Track: During a race, if a car leaves the track without interfering with its opponent, it is deemed to have completed its run at that point and is assigned a time of 9.999 seconds.

Note: If a car leaves its lane/track, the race officials may, at their discretion, inspect the track and, if a track fault is found which is likely to have caused the first infraction, the race officials may order the race to be rerun after the track is repaired.

Car Repair: If a car is damaged during the race, the Scout may, to the best of his ability, make repairs with the assistance of his adult partner or a member of the pit crew. Repairs must be completed within 5 minutes. The car must be checked again before being re-registered.

Car Repair (Track Error): If a car is damaged due to a track error or another car or person, the Race Officials may provide additional repair assistance at their discretion. The car must be checked again before being re-registered.

Finish line and scoring: The race results are determined by an electronic finish line. In the event of a failure of the electronic timing system, the race will be rerun once the timing equipment has been repaired. In the event of a tie between two or more racers for first, second or third place, those racers will compete on alternate lanes to determine the tie winner. Cars/tracks not involved in the tie will not be part of the re-race and will retain their finishing positions from the original run.

Rules Interpretation: Each Scout, including the Scout’s parents or representatives, should IMMEDIATELY refer any questions regarding Rules Interpretation and procedures to Race Control. Decisions made by the race management on questions of rule interpretation and the procedure can be appealed to the race director. Interpretation of the Rules is at the sole discretion of the Race Director and his decisions are final. Decisions made by the race director on questions of fact (e.g. the result of a specific race) cannot be appealed.

Note: Rude, unladylike or unsportsmanlike conduct by a competitor or spectator will result in disqualification from the competition and/or the race site. The race director must decide on all questions regarding disqualification from the race.

III. awards

Awards and Recognition: The core values ​​at Pinewood Derby competitions are participation, good sportsmanship and learning to follow rules. The Race Committee is responsible for recognizing and promoting these qualities. Prizes will be awarded after all races have been completed.

District rank trophies

Leo – First, Second, Third

Tigers – First, Second, Third

Wolf – First, Second, Third

Bear – First, Second, Third

Webelos – First, Second, Third

Arrow of Light – First, Second, Third

District championship trophies

All District Rank Trophy winners (First, Second, Third) compete for the District Championship. The three fastest Scout cars will be awarded district championship trophies (first, second, third).

participation

Each Scout will receive a souvenir of attendance for attending this district event.

SAFETY FIRST: Ask an adult for help with tools you have never used.

Packs across the country prepare to hold their annual Pinewood Derby. There are many ways to make your Pinewood Derby car go faster. Here are some of them.

Basic guidelines for the design of Pinewood Derby Cars

The possibilities are endless when it comes to choosing a shape for your Pinewood Derby car. Before you begin, consider the following general guidelines:

Avoid designs with a pointed nose. A pointed nose makes it difficult for your Pinewood Derby car to rest on the pin at the starting gate. It can also cause your Pinewood Derby car to bounce around when the needle drops and can cause problems for electronic timing systems.

Leave enough lumber in the rear of the Pinewood Derby car so you can place extra weight there. You will end up putting the most weight on the rear of the Pinewood Derby car.

Do the maximum weight. Your car should weigh as much as is allowed. At most races, the weight of a Pinewood Derby car is limited to 5 ounces. If your car weighs less, add coins or other weights.

Make sure it is clear which end of your Pinewood Derby car is in the front and which is in the back. In fact, at many races, the race officials – not you – put every Pinewood Derby car on the track. Sometimes the officials put the Pinewood Derby car backwards on the track because they can’t tell which end is which.

Choose a design that allows air to flow smoothly over and around the Pinewood Derby body. Pinewood Derby cars with aerodynamic profiles drive faster.

Click here for photo galleries of hundreds of Pinewood Derby car designs.

Design and build a winning Pinewood Derby car

You don’t have to strive for the fastest Pinewood Derby car to have fun competing in your Pinewood Derby. But if you and a helpful adult are willing to put in the extra time and effort, these tips are for you.

1. Bake the Block: Start with your block of wood and before you do anything else, bake it in the oven at 250 degrees for about two hours to remove moisture and lighten it. This allows you to put more weight on the rear of the Pinewood Derby car where you actually want it.

2. Create the design: Trace the outline of your Pinewood Derby car onto a piece of paper, cut it out and attach it to your block of wood.

Remember that a rectangular car is not an aerodynamic design. The most basic aerodynamic design is a simple wedge. If you don’t have time to design a complex car, a wedge will work just fine.

Click here to download a Pinewood Derby Car PDF Template to use to create your design.

3. Rough Cut Design: Use a coping saw to cut out the rough shape of your Pinewood Derby car. You can also ask a responsible adult to make these cuts with a power tool.

4. Shape your car: Use sandpaper to smooth the edges of your car and shape it to your design. An adult can also help you with a rotary tool or other tool.

5. Sand and paint the Pinewood Derby Car: Make it smooth to reduce friction and paint a great design to make it look great.

Click here for tips on painting your Pinewood Derby car to give it a lustrous finish.

6. Install axles and wheels: Make sure they are absolutely straight. You can test the alignment of your axles by pushing your car across a smooth floor or table. It should roll smoothly in a straight line.

— Make a tricycle: Raise one wheel about 1/16 inch higher so it never really touches the track. Less friction = more speed. Rules vary from pack to pack, so be sure to check your pack’s Pinewood Derby rules to ensure tricycles are allowed in your race.

— Extend the wheelbase: the front and rear wheels should be as far apart as possible. Again, make sure this is allowed in your race.

Click here to learn more about polishing Pinewood Derby axles and wheels to reduce friction.

7. Create Glue Holes: Glue the axles firmly into their holes to ensure they fit perfectly, but be careful not to get any glue on your wheels.

8. Add Weight: Remember to make your Pinewood Derby car as heavy as the rules allow. In general it is best to put the weight on the rear of your car as a heavier rear increases speed.

Click here for scientific Pinewood Derby speed tips from a former NASA engineer

9. Lubricate the wheel arch: add graphite or other dry lubricant to reduce friction. The less friction between body and wheel, the better.

Finally, remember that Rule #1 of a Pinewood Derby is to have fun. While you should always strive to do your best, don’t lose yourself in winning or having the fastest car. Just enjoy the ride.

Based on the book “Pinewood Derby Speed ​​Secrets”, DK Publishing, softcover for $12.95.

The heavier your Pinewood Derby Car is, the faster it will go. Most racing rules limit weight to 5 ounces so you want your car to be as close to the limit as possible. The wedge block requires about 2.5 ounces of additional weight to bring it to the 5 ounce limit. You should install the weights in your car before painting it.

Before adding the weights to your car, place the car block, wheels, axles, and any other accessories you plan to add to your car on a scale. Then add the weights until the total is 5 ounces. (Paint adds very little to the weight of your car). When your car is ready, weigh it again. If it’s over 5 ounces, drill a few holes in the bottom of the block about 1 inch behind the front axle to remove some wood. Below are some suggestions for adding weight to your Pinewood Derby Car.

Zinc top weight

This aerodynamic weight weighs 2.2 ounces and easily mounts to the top of your car with the included screws. You will need: Aerodynamic weight Floor weight Glue Screwdriver Sand and paint your block but do not add wheels. When the paint has dried, mount the weight on top of your car as far back as possible. The weight should not extend beyond the rear of the vehicle. Glue floor weights to the bottom of the block to bring the total weight (including wheels and axles) to 5 ounces. Install part of the weight behind the rear axle and the rest in front of the axle. The weight can be disassembled with pliers. Do not mount over the axle.

Aerodynamic Weight $4.95 Aerodynamic Weight Bottom Weights $1.95 Bottom Weights Superglue $2.95 each Digital Scale $15.95 Scale To place your order: 1. Enter quantity next to each of the above items that you want to order.

2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below. 1. Enter the quantity you wish to order next to each of the above items.2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below.

lead wire weights

Lead is cheap, dense, and easy to work with, but lead is toxic. Always use gloves when handling lead and make sure no lead is exposed after installing it in the block. When weighing the car and weights, use three weights of approximately equal length. You can cut the weights with a hacksaw, coping saw, or wire cutters. You will need: A set of lead wire weights Drill and 5/16″ drill bit Wood spatula Sandpaper Hacksaw, coping saw, or wire cutters. Lay the car block face down on a flat surface (meaning you are laying it face down) making sure the weight holes of the follow the slope of the top of the block). Clamp the block to the surface. Using a 5/16″ drill bit, drill three equally spaced holes directly into the back of the block, 3/8″ from the top of the block. The Depth of the holes should be slightly deeper than the length of the weights. Remove the clamp from the block. Insert the weights into the holes. The end of each weight should be at least 1/8″ deep the end of the block. This leaves room for the wooden spatula. Drill the holes deeper if necessary. Reweigh the block, wheels, axles and weights. Adjust weight amount to 5 ounces if needed. Seal the weight holes with the wooden spatula. Leave to dry in a warm place for 12 hours. Sand the wood filler until it is smooth and flush with the car block. Now you can paint your pine derby car and add the wheels and axles. If the finished car is less than 5 oz. Drill one or more shallow holes in the bottom of the car behind the rear axle and insert some of the leftover lead weight into the holes. Don’t drill so deep that you drill into the other weights. Seal with a wooden spatula.

lead wire weights 3 oz. Total weight $3.95 3 oz. Wire weights 3 oz. Total weight Wood Body Putty $2.95 each. 5/16″ Drill Bit $2.95 Drill Bit Digital Scale $15.95 Scale To place your order: 1. Enter the quantity you want to order next to each item listed above.

2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below. 1. Enter the quantity you wish to order next to each of the above items.2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below.

tungsten weights

Tungsten is very dense but more expensive than the other weights. The density gives you a speed advantage as more weight can be placed further back on the car. You can use a combination of cylinders and a flat weight for best results.

Reduce Fine Tune weight to bring your car to the 5 ounce limit. You will need: Four tungsten cylinders A tungsten plate A fine adjustment cylinder Drill and 3/8-inch drill bit Wood putty knife Sandpaper Screwdriver Clamp the pine derby block onto a flat surface. Using a 3/8″ bit, drill two holes straight into the back of the block high enough so that you don’t drill into the axle slot. The depth of the holes should be enough to hold the cylinders. Remove the clamp from the block. Insert the weights into the holes. The end of the weights should protrude at least 1/8 inch into the end of the block. This leaves room for the wooden spatula. Drill the holes deeper if necessary. The fine tune weight can also fit in these holes or you can drill a hole in the bottom of the block in front of the rear axle for this weight. Reweigh the block, wheels, axles and weights (don’t forget the flat weight). Adjust the amount of Fine Tune weight if necessary. Use the wood putty to weigh down holes. Leave to dry in a warm place for 12 hours. Sand the wood putty until it is smooth and flush with the car block. Paint your car and add the wheels and axles.

When the paint has dried and the wheels are on the car, it’s time to mount the flat weight. Place a pencil under and over the car, 1 inch in front of the rear axle. This is where the car should balance. Place the flat weight on top of the car and rock it back and forth until the car is balanced on the pencil. This is where the flat weight should be placed under the block. Attach the flatweight with the screw provided (Some rules do not allow covering the axle slots. Check your rules before mounting the flatweight and adjust the placement of the weight if necessary). When the paint has dried and the wheels are on the car, it’s time to mount the flat weight. Place a pencil under and over the car, 1 inch in front of the rear axle. This is where the car should balance. Place the flat weight on top of the car and rock it back and forth until the car is balanced on the pencil. This is where the flat weight should be placed under the block. Attach the flatweight with the screw provided (Some rules do not allow covering the axle slots. Check your rules before mounting the flatweight and adjust the placement of the weight if necessary).

Tungsten Cylinder SOLD OUT Fine Tune Cylinder $1.45 Fine Tune Cylinder Tungsten Plate $2.95 Tungsten Plate Digital Scale $15.95 Scale 3/8″ Spade Bit $2.95 Drill Bit Wood Body Spatula $2.95 each To place your order: 1. Enter quantity desired order one alongside each of the above items.

2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below. 1. Enter the quantity you wish to order next to each of the above items.2. Click the “Add to Cart” button below.

Tungsten Canopy

The tungsten canopy is attached to the top of the pine wood derby car. The canopy has a bolt to hold it in place. A 3/8 inch hole is drilled in the top of the block for the bolt. A Fine Tune weight can be added to bring your car to the 5 ounce limit 3/8″ drill bit. Superglue or epoxy.

1. Draw a straight line down the center of the top of the block with a pencil.

2. Position the hood on the midline near the back. Place two wheels and axles on top of the car just above the front axle slot. Place a pencil across the bottom of the block and 1 inch in front of the rear axle. Move the canopy along the center line until the car balances on the pencil. This is where you want to mount the canopy.

3. Use the pencil to mark the canopy stud. This is where the hole should be drilled to mount the canopy. 3. Use the pencil to mark the canopy stud. This is where the hole should be drilled to mount the canopy.

4. Drill a 3/8″ hole perpendicular to the slope of the top of the car where you marked the canopy stud. Use a credit or business card to align the angle of the drill. Place one edge of the card on the center line. The drill should line up with the other edge of the card. Drill the hole 1/2″ deep. Test the canopy in the drilled hole. The bottom of the top should be flush with the top of the car. 5. Remove the top and paint your car. Allow the paint to dry. 6 Glue the hood to the roof of the car with superglue or epoxy 7. Place the block, wheels and axles on a scale If the weight is over 5 ounces, drill holes in the bottom of the block between the two Axle slots until weight is 5 oz. If weight is under 5 oz. Drill one or more holes in the bottom of the car just in front of the rear axle and insert enough Fine Tune weight to bring your car to 5 oz Glue the weight in the hole 8. Add the wheels and axles to your Pinewood Derby Car.