Pink Pool Table Felt? 97 Most Correct Answers

Why a pool table isn’t designed to support a person’s weight

The key to understanding why not to stand on a pool table is its slate. The slate is a piece of flat rock that is often milled to precision and then covered with a pool cloth. The slate is very fragile and above all a very brittle material that does not offer much structural support.

Although a slate on a pool table accounts for a large percentage of the overall weight of a pool table, it is on average only 19mm thick, meaning that stepping on a flat slate is likely to crack or splinter, possibly entirely. This is especially true for older pool tables and most lower priced pool tables. This is because these tables give their slate relatively little overall support and could potentially collapse if enough weight is placed on it.

A dining top helps avert this with a cover that is primarily supported by the table construction and top track rather than the slate, although again we strongly advise against standing on a top poolside dining table.

How can pool players stand on pool tables on TV?

We’ve all seen the glorious moments on television after the decisive shot that decides a major pool tournament, with players jumping onto the pool table in celebration of their victory. How are these pool tables different from the pool tables you might find in a pub or at home?

As previously mentioned, the slate bed of a pool table is an incredibly fragile thing when subjected to force in the wrong place. However, for the sake of playability, competition quality billiard tables tend to support their slate beds much more evenly, consistently, and in more places. Also, these tables often use thicker slabs of slate, making the construction a bit more solid. However, this does not mean that there should be standing on the table! The cloth on a table can still spoil from such contact and does the slate itself a disservice (e.g. causing the slate to crack or ruining the bond between slate sections).

Can I sit on a pool table?

If you can’t stand on a pool table, can you sit on a pool table?

In general, sitting on the edge of a pool table is much less of a concern than sitting or standing on the playing surface of a pool table. When you sit on a ledge, the weight concentrates closer to the support of one leg and is more likely to hold. In this case, leaning against a pool table is unlikely to pose any structural risks. There is a chance that the leveling of the table will be disrupted (especially if leveling it when installed was a delicate task), but this usually happens over a period of time and not by a one-off event.

However, an important point that might discourage sitting on a pool table is the fact that doing so will damage a table’s surface. For example, we have seen cases where the surface of a billiards table has been scratched or damaged due to rivets being scraped across the outside of the table by a person’s jeans.

Conclusion

If the information above has not already made it clear, we strongly advise against never sitting or standing on your pool table as damage could result. This information applies to almost all slate bed pool tables, but if you have any further questions please feel free to contact our team on 0800 622 6464

Many pool table owners refurbish or install their own pool table and selecting the type of pool table felt to use is usually the most important decision to make.

The first thing you need to know is that billiard fabrics have many different names such as:

The sport itself is actually called billiards, but most people know it as playing billiards.

So is billiard table felt glued?

There are a few ways to attach felt to a pool table. The most commonly used are staples and glue. So some billiard tables have the felt glued in place, while others staple it instead.

If you want to learn more about whether the pool table felt is stuck, please read on or watch this video!

If you would like to see some of the best selling cues and accessories currently available you can click here.

Installing felt

You can attach felt in more than one way. You can use staples or glue to install felt. By the way, for those who don’t know exactly what felt is, felt is known as a pool tablecloth.

Often the installation of pool tablecloths must be done by professionals. However, with age, we hesitate to ask professionals for such work. They believe you can do it, and it will cost you less than hiring someone to install it for you.

Although with pool table felt, it is much better to hire professionals to do the work because if you stretched it the wrong way and left dust on the table, your pool table surface may become uneven or irregular. You can still do this objectively on your own, but you have to work slowly and carefully.

The first thing you should do is to prepare the pool table and the felt and anything necessary like glue or staples.

Billiard table disassembly

Once you have your materials, you can begin the process by removing the pocket liners from each pocket. Most table bags, regardless of table size, follow the American table standard. These are usually angled pockets, oriented inwards. They are typically 1.75 to 2.25 times as wide at the orifice diameter of the 2¼-inch bullets and mostly wider in the middle sides than in the corners.

Table pockets only need to be removed if they are already mounted on the table. After removing the bags, you need to find the screws on the underside of the table that hold the railings in place. You’ll need to remove them so you can move the railing to a safe storage location. The railing should not be damaged or it could impede the movement of the pool balls around the pool table. So removing the railings is a must.

A railing can consist of two, three or four parts. Regardless of how many sides the railing has, if you have two or more sides, you will need a helper or two to help you carry the railing. This is to avoid damage.

Remove old felt

If there is still felt on the pool table, it is important to remove the old before putting on the new felt. You must be careful to remove all of the old felt. If the felt was secured with a clip, it will be easier to remove with a clip remover. If the felt has been glued, you can simply tear it off the table, but you must be careful when doing this. Glued felt can damage the table itself if improperly removed.

Level the table

This part is optional, but if you want a good pool table then this part is a must. You may need a bubble level or other instrument designed to ensure the surface is level horizontally or plumb vertically. If you don’t have this instrument, you can also use your Android phone to have a spirit level, this is free as a mobile application.

Make sure you clean the slate as well. You do not need to use water or cleaning solution as it may cause unpredictable reactions. You can just use a dry clean cloth to wipe away dust. If residue builds up on the surface, you can simply scrape it off with a knife or other flat object, but not a sharp blade.

cutting the felt

Most of the time, felt comes in a larger roll or a large piece of fabric. You can cut the felt once and then you can just tear the felt by hand. However, if you are not confident enough to tear it up with your bare hands, you can simply use scissors or other cutting devices.

Roll the felt

You’ll know it’s right side up if it has a smoother surface than the other side. As a rule, you can see an imprint on the edge, which also reveals the quality level of the felt. If you can’t find the quality level label, simply contact a professional. Hang extra felt at the foot end and some more at the headboard where you will start the installation. You don’t want to fall short and start over.

Apply the felt

Begin by folding the felt in the head area where you will place just a little extra cloth. When folded, the underside should be exposed, hanging over the vertical side of the panel. Start spraying the slate where the cloth will be attached.

Glue is better than a staple in many ways, e.g. B. if you use glue it will look cleaner while a staple will show on the surface and be much harder to hide. After spraying the glue, carefully attach the felt to the table. The felt must be tight enough to avoid wrinkling. Then repeat the process on the other end. However, you will need to wait a few minutes before beginning the other parts to allow the glue to dry slightly, and repeat the process until all sides are glued.

End

Cut off the felt that is sticking out on each side. You can use these embellishments to create bags and bag liners. Corner and middle pockets can be made of felt trim. You need to cut these ingredients horizontally and then arrange them like a mesh. You can glue or staple them inside. Put them in place to protect the balls from damage.

Conclusion

In general, you don’t need to re-felt your table often. Felts are typically replaced every three years, although felt can last up to 10 years with proper care. This is going to be a whole lot of hard work, but if you’re determined to do it, then you definitely can. There are a few ways to attach felt to a pool table. The most commonly used are staples and glue. Now that you know how to attach pool table felt to the table, you can let all your friends know that sometimes it gets stuck.

Table linens are essential to setting the right tone for your event and they can really transform a space. Choosing a tablecloth is easy; Here you will find answers to our most frequently asked questions.

determine quality

What should I look out for with fine bed linen?

Fine linens feature a combination of beautiful materials, expert construction, fine workmanship and design. Most fine linens are made from linen or cotton because they are durable, absorbent, and soft.

What material should my table linen be made of?

Because they are strong and absorbent, we recommend cotton and linen. Although they do require ironing, they are durable and have the most luxurious feel and look.

For ease of care, high-quality, easy-care table linen collections are available that are either dirt-repellent or wrinkle-resistant.

What is the difference between linen and cotton?

Both linen and cotton are natural fibers. Linen comes from the flax plant, which grows in the cooler climates of western and northern Europe. Cotton comes from the cotton plant, which grows in hot, humid climates around the world. Both fabrics are very absorbent, durable and soften over time.

However, there are some subtle differences. Linen feels lighter and fresher and will whiten over time. It is also very absorbent and lint free. Cotton feels firmer and shrinks more than linen.

What determines the quality of cotton fabrics?

The quality of cotton is primarily based on the length of the fibers. This is because longer fibers can be spun into smoother, stronger, and much finer yarns, which can then be woven into softer, more durable fabrics. Egyptian cotton in particular is valued because the humid weather and fertile soil around the Nile Delta produce particularly fine and long fibres. Cotton grown in Egypt has a staple length of over 2 1/4″, double that of generic cotton and 60% longer than Pima cotton.

What determines the quality of linen fabrics?

Like cotton, higher quality linen fabrics are made from longer fibers as these result in finer and stronger yarns. In addition, these fibers have a very uniform thickness with almost no coarse knots or uneven slubs, resulting in a smooth feel. Irish and Belgian linen is widely regarded as some of the finest linen in the world.

determine size

What are standard table linen sizes?

Formal table linens are generously sized for elegant entertaining. Sizes vary by collection but are generally as follows:

Cocktail napkin 6″ x 6″ Lunch napkin 18″ x 18″ Dinner napkin 22″ x 22″ Placemat 14″ x 20″ Tablecloth 70″ x 90″ (8 seats) Tablecloth 70″ x 108″ (10-12 seats) Tablecloth 70″ x 126″ (seats 12) Tablecloth 70″ x 144″ (seats 12-14) Tablecloth 70″ x 162″ (seats 12-14) Tablecloth 70″ x 180″ (seats 16-18) Tablecloth 70″ round (seats 4) Tablecloth 90″ round (seats 8) Tablecloth 108″ round (seats 10-12)

See our basic tablecloth size chart and the tables they would fit on for more information.

What size tablecloth should I buy?

For formal settings, tablecloths should hang 10″ to 12″ around the table. More elaborate occasions may require a 15″ to 30″ (to the ground) drop. The longer the drop, the more dramatic the effect. In contrast, casual events require clothing with 6″ – 8″ drops.

To calculate the size of tablecloth you need, measure the length and width of your table and add twice the desired length to each measurement. For example, if your table is 48″ wide and 84″ long and you want each side to drop 12″, you would add 24″ to each dimension:

48″ + 24″ = 72″ wide

84″ + 24″ = 108″ long

For round tables, measure the diameter of your table and add the desired drop twice. Following the example above, 48 inch round tables would require 72 inch round tablecloths.

What shape should my tablecloth have?

Rectangular table – rectangular tablecloth

Oval table – oval or rectangular tablecloth

Square table – square tablecloth

Round table – round or square tablecloth

My table has multiple leaves. What size tablecloth should I buy?

If the table is often lengthened and shortened, buy separate tablecloths for each size. If this is not possible, you can buy a cloth that fits the size of the most commonly used table and buy cheaper banquet towels for larger occasions. Another solution is to simply buy a cloth that fits the largest table and use it all the time. A third option is a nice set of placemats and napkins.

Are custom tablecloths available?

Yes. If you cannot find a standard size tablecloth that fits your table, we are happy to offer you custom sizes in many collections.

Suggested Quantities

How many table linens do I need?

We recommend that a basic collection of table linen includes the following items:

1 formal tablecloth

12 formal napkins (usually to match the tablecloth)

1 casual tablecloth

12 casual napkins

12 placemats

18 cocktail napkins

1 table insert

Design Tips

Which design should I choose for my table linen?

In general, formal linens are either plain, woven with a pattern, printed, or embroidered. White and ivory are the most traditional colors. Printed designs and more colorful embroidery, more suitable for informal environments.

What is a damask?

Unlike a print, a damask or jacquard refers to patterns woven into the fabric’s weave, creating a subtle yet elegant look. Although it is a common misconception that the term “damask” refers to a heavy fabric, damask designs can be woven into fabric of any weight.

What colors should my table linen have?

White is the most popular color for table linens and is always appropriate for a formal meal. Ivory and off-white colors are popular second colors, especially in rooms with warmer tones. In addition, colors are wonderful for highlighting special elements in your tabletop collections or for celebrating festive occasions.

What should I consider when choosing bedding for a special occasion?

– Location: Choose colors to complement the existing decor of your dining room. Let the surroundings guide you during outdoor events. In general, light colors look better in sunny locations, while pastel tones are wonderful in garden settings.

– Season: Spring and summer colors tend to be lighter, while bolder colors are more appropriate in the colder autumn and winter months.

– Theme: Colorful bedding is one of the most effective ways to set the mood you want. Vibrant colors add drama, while soft colors evoke a more sophisticated vibe.

Protection of your spreadsheets

Why do I need a table insert?

Although built to last, fine table surfaces are often subject to excessive wear and tear. To protect your tables, thick felt table mats are designed to reduce noise and protect your tabletop from heat and scratches. Unlike ordinary liners, these are plush and generously sized (approx. 5″ larger than your table) to extend over the edge of your table to create a softer drape under your fine linens. See Protecting Your Table with Felt Pads for more information.

What size tablecloth do I need?

We recommend choosing a table liner that is slightly smaller than your tablecloth (but larger than your table). Below are our recommended sizes:

Tablecloth felt insert 70″ x 90″ 60″ x 82″ 70″ x 108″ 60″ x 100″ 70″ x 126″ 60″ x 118″ 70″ x 144″ 60″ x 136″ 70″ x 162″ 70″ x 162″ 70″x180″ 60″x172″ 88″x106″ 78″x96″ 88″x124″ 78″x114″ 88″x140″ 78″x130″ 88″x170″x 170″ around 60″ around 90″ around 80″ around 108″ around 90″ around

Maintain table linen

How do I care for my table linen?

Most fine linens can be washed at home. Cotton and linen should be washed with similar colors in cold water using a regular (non-bleach) detergent. Stains should be treated with a stain remover such as our LeBlanc Linen Wash as soon as possible. Bleaching agents such as chlorine, peroxide or sodium carbonate should not be used.

Linens can be dried, but should be removed from the dryer slightly damp to minimize wrinkling. They should then be spread over a large area and pressed with a hot iron. When ironing on embroidery, place it face down on a towel and press on the back.

Taffeta, silk and lace should generally be dry cleaned, especially if the items are delicate or have decorative fringes.

Are there special laundry cleaning solutions?

LeBlanc Linen Wash is a specially formulated cleaning solution for washing delicate linen. Its gentle pH balanced formula can be used on all natural fibers, synthetics and blends. We especially like it because it’s concentrated, making it effective on linens (including vintage linens) without the use of bleach, caustics, or phosphates. LeBlanc Linen Wash has been tested to remove lipstick, jam & jelly, fruit juice, coffee, tea, chocolate, red wine, wine, grease, cola, ink and oil stains.

Do I have to iron my fine table linen?

For a formal meal, we recommend ironing your fine linens. After washing, simply place your slightly damp linens on your table over large towels or a felt table mat and press them out with a hot iron. Of course, you can also have your laundry professionally ironed for a small fee.

How do I store my table linen?

Preparing bedding for storage is easy. Make sure the linens are completely clean and dry. Avoid starching them before storing. Fold items carefully and store in a cool, dry and well-ventilated place. To avoid large swings in humidity and temperature, do not store linens in plastic bags or cedar crates, or in basements, attics, or garages. Check your linens regularly to make sure they are clean and dry.

Click here to view all of our table linen collections.

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Pool tablecloth is a very important part of a pool table. It affects the look, feel, performance, durability and amount of enjoyment you will have at your table.

The amount of enjoyment you get from your pool table can be enhanced if the cloth you choose suits the table’s primary use. Consider the following points to make your decision easier.

Looks

Pool tablecloths come in many colors and patterns. The bed of a pool table is a large space, so the color you choose will be very eye-catching. In addition to the color of the pool table, consider the general room decor and the tones of your room when deciding what will look best in your room.

Call Ken at (410) 256-8388 for expert advice and support.

Simonis 760™ 70% wool / 30% nylon

21 oz

Slightly faster than 860

nap free

high speed game

15 colors more info Shop 760 Simonis 860™ 90% wool / 10% nylon

23 ounces

Slightly slower than 760

nap free

Designed for 9-Ball

27 colors more info Shop 860 Simonis 860HR™ 70% wool / 30% nylon

24 ounces

Speed ​​between 760 and 860

nap free

business or home

4 colors more info shop 860HR

Simonis 760™

Simonis 760™ is the fastest Simonis pool table cloth and is also found on pool tables when players want to play ‘golf’ and where a color other than English Green or Yellow Green is desired.

It is a 70% wool and 30% nylon blend that is sometimes used for pool tournaments. This cloth maintains its speed and accuracy over time and does not change ball roll as it ages. The higher speed is great for bank pool, straight pool and one pocket as well as traditional 8 and 9 ball.

It’s slightly faster than Simonis 860™, although 860’s higher wool content fights ball burn better over time. It is recommended that you combine your Simonis cloth with a set of Belgian Aramith phenolic billiard balls which, in conjunction with cleaning, will reduce burns from friction on the cloth surface. Aramith bullets are purely phenolic and have the toughest composition and heat resistance compared to other bullets with lower phenolic or polyester content (non-phenolic bullets) which degrade rapidly over time.

Residue on balls can cause friction that can burn or mark the surface of the cloth. While Aramith phenolic balls can burn the fabric surface, polyester balls leave behind some polyester. KEEP YOUR ARAMITH BALLS CLEAN – To protect the cloth you will achieve the best performance and appearance over time.

The combed worsted wool and the high thread count ensure long-lasting comfort.

Shop Simonis 760™ Cloth

Simonis 860™

Designed specifically for 9-Ball, Simonis 860™ has proven to be well suited for home use and the most popular color choices. Also great for ball action and traditional 8-ball. It is a blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon.

While the speed is slightly slower than 760, 860 cloth has been shown over time to be better at preventing ball burns than 760 due to its high wool content. The combed worsted wool and high thread count ensure long-lasting comfort.

It is recommended that you combine your Simonis cloth with a set of Belgian Aramith phenolic billiard balls which, in conjunction with cleaning, will reduce burns from friction on the cloth surface. Aramith bullets are purely phenolic and have the toughest composition and heat resistance compared to other bullets with lower phenolic or polyester content (non-phenolic bullets) which degrade rapidly over time.

Residue on balls can cause friction that can burn or mark the surface of the cloth. While Aramith phenolic balls can burn the fabric surface, polyester balls leave behind some polyester. KEEP YOUR ARAMITH BALLS CLEAN – To protect the cloth you will achieve the best performance and appearance over time.

Shop Simonis 860™ Cloth

Simonis 860HR™

Simonis 860HR™ (High Resistant) has a speed between 760 and 860 blends (second fastest Simonis pool towel – just ahead of Simonis 860), is 70% wool and 30% nylon (like blend 760) but is heavier than 760 for increased durability .

While the speed is slightly slower than 760, 860 cloth has been shown over time to be better at preventing ball burns than 760 due to its high wool content. The combed worsted wool and high thread count ensure long-lasting comfort.

860HR has the same thread count as 860 with the shaving process slightly altered to leave a surface that is more or less a 100% wool surface on the fabric, which is why the fabric does not show as many stains/shot burns as 760.

Due to the weight, blending and finishing of this cloth, the result gives the cloth commercial quality durability and professional quality performance and accuracy while withstanding the abuse in a high usage environment.

Recommended for commercial and home use.

It is recommended that you combine your Simonis cloth with a set of Belgian Aramith phenolic billiard balls which, in conjunction with cleaning, will reduce burns from friction on the cloth surface. Aramith bullets are purely phenolic and have the toughest composition and heat resistance compared to other bullets with lower phenolic or polyester content (non-phenolic bullets) which degrade rapidly over time.

Residue on balls can cause friction that can burn or mark the surface of the cloth. While Aramith phenolic balls can burn the fabric surface, polyester balls leave behind some polyester. KEEP YOUR ARAMITH BALLS CLEAN – To protect the cloth you will achieve the best performance and appearance over time.

Shop Simonis 860HR™ cloth

New pool cloth not only looks immaculate, it plays like a dream too. The balls roll as if on glass. Hopefully they’re headed for a pocket, but that’s up to you. If your table is overdue for a restoration, you’re in luck: we have some great options to make your table look and play great again.

There are very few things that compare to a game of billiards on a table with a fresh new cloth. At least, that’s what we believe here at PoolDawg, and that’s why we only stock towels from the most trusted brands in the business. Admittedly we are biased, but believe that the real rolling of a pool ball across a new pool tablecloth inspires passion, just like the first tracks on a powder snow day, water skiing on a perfectly calm lake or skating on freshly Zambonied ice. Oh, and it’s like shuffling through a stack of crispy hundred dollar bills. (We also love crisp hundred dollar bills.)

What you need to consider when buying billiard tablecloths

Pool tablecloth – sometimes called “pool table felt” – is made from a combination of wool and usually nylon. Worsted is the best fabric and is not actually “felted” – the wool goes through a spinning process that eliminates the blur on the surface. Simonis makes a high quality worsted yarn and the Championship Tour Edition cloth also stands out and is also a tournament quality cloth.

A good pool tablecloth will increase your passion for the game. The Simonis 860 for example offers the best control and is used in almost all professional events, while the Simonis 760 is the fastest rubber. The 860HR is a hybrid of both. Among the cheaper options, the Championship Invitational is durable and a relatively fast cloth. The Mercury Ultra is also fast.

A tip: to make your shawl last longer, use high-quality balls that leave fewer burn marks from the friction of the spinning balls.

Installation of your pool tablecloth

We’re still awaiting the technology to design a cover that installs itself, but no cubes yet. In the meantime, here are some basics:

• The fabric is usually supplied in one piece – enough to cover the bed and railings

• You will need to cut six 6″ strips (or we can do that for you if you use our $10 rail cutting service)

• Rails are pre-cut with Championship Invitational cloth

• There is a difference between above and below

• The bodice has clear, distinctive stitching; the ground may be blurred

• We have a DIY pool table felt installation guide to save you hundreds of dollars if you do it yourself

• To find a local installer, do an online search for “pool table services” and include your city and state

Get a real roll with PoolDawg

Whether you call it pool tablecloth or felt, it’s the quality of the material that will have a drastic impact on your game. Fortunately, we offer fabrics from the industry’s leading manufacturers: Simonis and Championship.

When it’s time for a pool table felt replacement, remember the basics: worsted is better than “felt” for the pool table; different types offer better control or more speed; and most importantly, at PoolDawg we are always ready to help you choose your billiard felt or worsted and to answer all your questions. Contact us today.

Q: What type of fabric is on a standard pool table?

Most American billiard tables have a combination wool and nylon cloth, although wood and polyester are also common options. Material is important, but there are other details about wool to consider.

Q: What is wool fabric?

The most common type of pool table felt or wool is wool fabric. This is generally a thicker, heavier type of material. Most versions contain at least 0 percent wool. This creates the feeling of felted wool that most people are familiar with. This type of wool cloth is cheaper than other versions. Because of this, it’s often the type of material on pool tables at home. It is also common at coin operated tables in clubs and bars. The weight of the wool makes it more likely that the ball will decelerate as it moves. This type of product is best suited for everyday use and casual play style.

Pilling is one of the main problems with woolen fabrics. This happens when small amounts of lint or furry bits build up on the fabric itself. Because pilling can restrict play and affect the movement of the ball, it is not used in any WPA sanctions tournament.

Q: What is worsted wool?

When you touch worsted, it feels very different. It doesn’t feel like a felt material. Instead, it feels like a finely woven pro suit. This is due to the intricate weave of the fibers. This is a higher quality product and tends to be significantly more expensive.

Worsted is almost always found when there is a professional tournament going on. It is also found in higher tier pool halls or in areas where leagues are held. One of the main advantages is that it does not pill like wool. Therefore, the material itself does not affect the game.

A key difference with this product has to do with the side. Due to the way the game is played, the bottom or bottom of the worsted will develop a little fuzzy. In other words, you can’t flip it over and use the other side.

Q: What is Speed ​​Cloth?

Sometimes speed cloth is a term used to describe pool tablecloths. It’s just worsted. It gets that name from its ability to get the ball rolling on it faster compared to traditional woolen fabric.

Q: When should you replace a pool tablecloth?

Remember that even the highest quality pool tablecloth wears out over time, it’s important to replace it. Do this if the material is burned or bruised. You can also replace it if tears or pimples appear in the fabric, which is common with worsted fabrics. Every time the game cannot be played or the cloth in the game is disrupted, it’s time to restore a table with the product. This includes cases of holes or just aesthetic concerns like burns.

Larger tables may require multiple lights to properly illuminate the playing surface.

Billiard Table Manufactory, J. M. Brunswick & Bro., Proprietor, Cincinnati, Ohio 1865 ad

A pool table or pool table is a fenced table on which cue sports are played. In modern times, all pool tables (whether carom, billiards, pyramid, or snooker) feature a flat surface, usually made of mined slate covered with cloth (usually a tightly woven worsted wool called baize) and surrounded by vulcanized rubber cushions, where the whole is elevated above the ground.[1]: 115, 238 More specific terms are used for particular sports, such as; B. snooker table and billiard table, and on these types of tables different sized billiard balls are used. An obsolete term is billiard board, which was used in the 16th and 17th centuries.[1]:27[2]

Parts and equipment[ edit ]

pillow [ edit ]

Cushions (sometimes called “rail cushions”, “cushion rubber” or less commonly “shock absorbers”) are found on the insides of a table’s wooden rails. There are various materials and design philosophies associated with upholstery rubber. The cushions are made of an elastic material such as vulcanized rubber (rubber or synthetic). The purpose of the cushioning rubber is to allow the billiard balls to bounce off the rubber while minimizing the loss of kinetic energy.

The rail cushion profile, which is the angle of the cushion in relation to the table bed, varies between table types. The standard in American pool tables is the K-66 profile, which is defined by the Billiard Congress of America (BCA) as having a 1 + 3⁄16 inch (30 mm) base and a 1 inch (25 mm) nose height. .[3] When properly installed, the distance from the nose of the pad to the covered slate surface is 1+7⁄16 in. (37 mm)[4] using a specification 2+1⁄4 in. (57 mm) ball set.

On a billiard table, the K-55 profile is used (with a slightly more acute angle than pool cushions). K-55 cushions have cloth, usually canvas, vulcanized into the top of the rubber to adjust rebound accuracy and speed.

Snooker tables use an L-shaped profile, e.g. B. the L77 profile.

bed [ edit ]

The bed table – the fabric-covered, horizontal playing surface – is made of solid, smooth slabs of slate, mostly from Italy, Brazil or China, with high-quality equipment. Small billiard tables may only use one or two pieces of slate, while carom, English billiard and tournament size billiard tables use three. Full size snooker tables require five. The gap between the slabs of slate is filled with a hard setting putty, epoxy or resin, then sanded to create a seamless finish before covering it with the cloth. If multiple pieces of slate are poorly joined, the resin can warp and cause an uneven playing surface; It can also be difficult to move once connected.

Tables for the domestic market also typically use slate beds, but the slate is often thinner, up to about +1⁄2 inch (13 mm). The early table beds consisted of fabric-covered wooden boards. Today, inexpensive but not very rigid or durable materials used for the beds of simple tables (e.g. for children’s playrooms) still include wood, especially medium-density fiberboard and plywood, as well as plastics and other synthetic materials among various trade names .

fabric [ edit ]

Billiard cloth (sometimes incorrectly referred to as felt) is a specific type of cloth that covers the top of the “playing surface” of the table. Both the rails and slate beds are covered with 21-24 ounce billiard cloth (although some less expensive 19 oz cloths are available), most often green in color (representing the grass of the original lawn games from which billiards evolved). Has). and is made from either a woven wool or a wool-nylon blend called Baize.

Most standing tables that are used frequently use the slower, thicker blended felt because it’s cheaper. This type of fabric is called wool fabric. In contrast, quality pool cloth is usually made of a pileless fabric like worsted wool, which allows balls to roll much faster. This “speed” of the cloth affects ball avoidance and deflection, among other aspects of game finesse. Snooker towels traditionally have a directional hair on which the balls behave differently when rolling against or running with the direction of the hair.

Tags [ edit ]

Sights, also known as diamonds (because of their traditional shape), are inlaid at precise, evenly spaced locations along the rails of some tables (not typically snooker tables) to aid in aiming bank or kick shots. There are seven along each long rail (with the side pocket interfering with where the seventh would go, on pocket pool tables) and three along each short rail, with each of the four corners counting as a different one in the mathematical system that the diamonds are used for arithmetic used. These sight pieces divide the playing area into equal squares. Books, even entire book series, have been written on geometric and algebraic target systems using the diamonds.

Patches are often used to mark the top and bottom patches on the fabric. Other markings may be a line drawn across the headline (or across the beam line with the “D” in British pool). Another case is the outline of the triangle post behind the base where the balls are laid in a straight pool, as the outline of this area is strategically important throughout the game. Artistic pool allows lines to be drawn between opposing landmarks, forming a grid on the playing surface. Other grid patterns are used in various forms of balkline billiards. A more recent table-marking convention in European nineball is the breakbox.

Carom pool tables [ edit ]

Pocketless carom billiard tables are used for games such as straight rail, balcony, one-cushion billiards, three-cushion billiards, and artistic billiards.

Dimensions [ edit ]

Regular 10 × 5 foot carom billiard tables have a playing surface (measured between the lugs of the cushions) of 2.84 meters by 1.42 meters (9.32 × 4.65 ft) with a tolerance of 5 millimeters. The standard height range of the table, measured from the playing surface to the floor, is between 75 and 80 centimetres.

bed [ edit ]

The slate bed of a carom pool table must have a minimum thickness of 45 millimeters, and during tournaments the recommended heating temperature is 33–37 °C (91–99 °F), which keeps moisture out of the cloth to help the balls roll and Rebounds in a consistent manner and generally makes a table play faster. A heated table is required by international carom rules and is a particularly important requirement for the games of three-cushion billiards and artistic billiards.[1]: 115, 238

Heating table beds is an ancient practice. Queen Victoria had a pool table that was heated with zinc tubing, although the main aim at the time was to keep the ivory balls then used from warping. The first use of electric heating was in an 18.2 balcony tournament held in December 1927 between Welker Cochran and Jacob Schaefer Jr. The New York Times announced this with fanfare: “For the first time in the history of the World Balkline Billiards Championship, a heated table will be used…”[1]: 115, 238 [6]

Pool tables[ edit ]

Cue ball and the 1 ball near a WPA style pocket. (The balls are the same size; the cue ball looks big because and the 1 ball is near a WPA pocket. (The balls are the same size; the cue ball looks big because of the foreshortening.)

A pool table or pocket pool table has six pockets – one at each corner of the table (corner pockets) and one in the middle of each of the longer sides (side pockets or middle pockets).

Dimensions [ edit ]

A WEPF style pool table with a cue ball and red and yellow balls near the small, rounded, almost parallel-sided pocket.

Pool tables come in a variety of sizes, typically referred to as 9 ft (2.7 m), 8.5 ft (2.6 m), 8 ft (2.4 m), or 7 ft (2.1 m) tables . In all cases, the table is rectangular with a 2:1 ratio (e.g. 9 x 4.5 feet).

There are only two sizes authorized for tournament play by the pooling body recognized by the International Olympic Committee, the World Pool-Billiard Association (WPA) and its various regional and national affiliates. According to the pool rules standardized around the world, these are the 9 × 4.5 ft and 8 × 4 ft models. For a 9 foot table, the playing surface (the dimensions between the noses of the cushions) is 100 inches (254 cm) by 50 inches (127 cm) with a margin of error of +1⁄8 inch (3.2 mm). every dimension. For an 8-foot table, the playing surface is 92 inches (234 cm) by 46 inches (117 cm), with the same allowance of +1⁄8 inch.

In the UK, as well as a number of other British Commonwealth and European countries, the typical pool table is 2.13 m × 1.07 m (7 × 3.5 ft), although there are also 1.83 m (6 ft) tables for the Pub and home market have something in common. These are the sizes used by internationally standardized blackball and the amateur World Eightball Pool Federation, as well as informal pub pool. The 7-foot size is also commonly used in North American amateur leagues and is a common coin operated machine in bars and other venues. The playing surface for a 7 foot table is 76 inches (193 cm) by 38 inches (96.5 cm).

bags [ edit ]

Bags, which are usually lined with leather or plastic on the back, have traditionally had drop pockets, which are small receptacles under each pocket to hold the balls. More modern tables may instead use ball return pockets, a series of chutes inside the table that deliver the balls into a collection compartment on one side of the table, much like the ball return at a bowling alley. At a coin table, the object balls are deposited in an inaccessible window until the table is paid again, allowing the balls to be released into the compartment, while the game ball is usually separated into its own ball return, often using a different sized ball. A possible result of drop pockets is that if too many balls enter the same pocket, the container fills up and prevents more balls from entering that pocket, requiring some to be manually moved out of the pocket before shooting again.

Regardless of table size, the standard WPA table (sometimes informally referred to as “American style”) has wide, angular pockets that flare distinctly inward and are generally 1.75 to 2.25 times as wide at the opening the diameter of the 2 + 1⁄4- inch (57mm) balls, wider at the side (middle) pockets than at the corners. WEPF pool (sometimes colloquially called “British-style” or “Commonwealth-style”) is played with 2 to 2+1⁄8 inch (51-54mm) balls, and this style of table has smaller, narrow pockets ( width is calculated as ball diameter multiplied by 1.6 and is the same on all six pockets), with rounded entrances and nearly parallel sides, like a snooker table. A tactical consequence of this design difference is that the cheeks of the WPA pocket are often used just like a horizontal version of a basketball goal’s back wall to rebound the ball into the pocket. this technique doesn’t work on blackball tables, and even shots over the fence into a corner pocket are more difficult.

bed [ edit ]

For tournament competition under the worldwide standardized WPA rules (and league games under derived rule sets), the bed of the pocket pool table must be made of slate at least 1 inch (2.54 cm) thick. The flatness of the table must not vary by more than 0.02 inch (0.51 mm) in the longitudinal direction and 0.01 inch (0.25 mm) in the transverse direction.[7]

Snooker and English pool tables [ edit ]

Snooker table drawn to scale

A table designed for the games of snooker and billiards is usually referred to as a snooker table or a plane.

Dimensions [ edit ]

The playing surface of a tournament snooker table, as standardized by the World Professional Billiards and Snooker Association (WPBSA) and the Amateur International Billiards and Snooker Federation (IBSF), is 11 ft 8.5 in by 5 ft 10 in (3569 mm x 1778 mm) with a tolerance of ± 0.5 in (13 mm), [11] although commonly referred to as 12 ft x 6 ft, the nominal outside dimensions including the rails. Smaller tables, approximately 10 feet by 5 feet to half the size, are also sometimes used in pubs, apartments and smaller snooker halls. The height from the floor to the top of the pillow ranges from 2ft 9.5″ to 2ft 10.5″ (851mm and 876mm).[11]

bags [ edit ]

A pool table has six pockets, one on each corner and one in the middle of each of the longest side pads. Pockets are approximately 3.5 inches (86mm), [clarification needed], although high-level tournaments may use slightly smaller pockets to increase difficulty. The amount of undercut (trimmed underside of the protruding nose of the rubber pad at the pocket opening),[12]: 8, if present, has a strong impact on how easily a ball is received from the pocket (the “pocket speed”). On snooker and English pool tables, the pocket entries are rounded, while pool tables have sharp “knuckles”. This affects how accurate shots need to be to get into a pocket and how fast they can be if not accurate, including shots running along and against a cushion making snooker more difficult to play as billiards. According to the WPBSA Official Rules, “Bag openings must conform to templates owned and authorized by the World Professional Billiards and Snooker Association (WPBSA)”.[11] The equipment sections of the WPBSA and IBSF rulebooks do not actually specify the dimensions and shapes of these proprietary templates[10][11], which change from time to time, requiring the templates to be dated.[13] The organizations will not recognize tournament play or records (maximum breaks, etc.) unless they are conducted on tables that conform to then-current templates.[13][14]

pillow [ edit ]

The pads (sometimes referred to as rails, although that term actually applies to the sections of wood to which the pads are attached) are usually made of vulcanized rubber.

Tags [ edit ]

The beam area is marked by a bar line drawn on the cloth across the width of the table at a distance of 737 mm (29 in) from and parallel to the face of the bottom pad (mm) centered on that line within the bar forms the ‘D [11] in which the cue ball must be placed when it breaks or after the cue ball has been potted or shot off the table. The position of four of the colors is marked along the long cord (longitudinal center) of the table, perpendicular to the bar line: the black spot, 12.75 inches (324 mm) from the top pad; the middle point or blue point, which is midway between the bottom and top pillows; the pyramidal spot or pink spot, which is midway between the middle spot and the top pillow; and the bar spot, or brown spot, located at the midpoint of the bar line [11] (and thus the “D”). Because of its obviousness, the brown spot is not always marked (as are the distinctive green and yellow spots[11] at the left and right intersections, respectively, of the bar line and the curve of the “D”.[1] : 116, 278 [11] The exact placement of these marks will vary on smaller tables, but are proportional to the large model.

bed [ edit ]

The playing surface of a good quality snooker table has a bed of slate[15] and is covered with a traditional green cloth, although many other colors are now available. The thickness of this cloth determines the table’s speed (lack of friction) and responsiveness to spins, with thicker cloths lasting longer but being slower and less responsive. The pile of the cloth can affect the movement of the balls, especially on slower shots and shots played with sidespin on the cue ball. A snooker table traditionally has a pile running from the beam to the top and is brushed and ironed in that direction.

Tables for other games[edit]

Other types of billiard tables are used for specific games such as; B. the Russian pyramid, which uses a 12ft by 6ft table (similar to a snooker table but with much smaller pockets), and the Asian four-ball, which uses a pocketless 8ft by 4ft table. Games like Bagatelle often had more than six holes, including right through the bed in the middle of the table, a feature still found in bar billiards and bumper pool.

Novelty and home tables [ edit ]

There are novel billiard tables, often for billiards, that come in a variety of shapes including zig-zag, circular, and (particularly for bumper pool) hexagonal. A round table featured prominently in the 1972 film Silent Running. For the domestic market, many manufacturers have produced convertible pool tables (broadly speaking) that double as dining tables, or as ping pong, foosball, or air hockey tables with removable hard tops. [15] Home pool tables, which often lack a ball return system, are commonly either 4×8 foot or 3.5×7 foot models, a medium between 3×6 foot bar/pub tables and 4.5×9 foot tournament size. Low-end tables tend to be smaller in range and may have MDF or wooden beds as an alternative to slate; Those with light beds can be folded up for storage, like table tennis. Miniature tables range in size from 1×1.6 foot tabletops to freestanding 2.5×5 foot models and use downsized cues and balls.

Call Ken at (410) 256-8388 for expert advice and support.

Simonis 760™ 70% wool / 30% nylon

21 oz

Slightly faster than 860

nap free

high speed game

15 colors more info Shop 760 Simonis 860™ 90% wool / 10% nylon

23 ounces

Slightly slower than 760

nap free

Designed for 9-Ball

27 colors more info Shop 860 Simonis 860HR™ 70% wool / 30% nylon

24 ounces

Speed ​​between 760 and 860

nap free

business or home

4 colors more info shop 860HR

Simonis 760™

Simonis 760™ is the fastest Simonis pool table cloth and is also found on pool tables when players want to play ‘golf’ and where a color other than English Green or Yellow Green is desired.

It is a 70% wool and 30% nylon blend that is sometimes used for pool tournaments. This cloth maintains its speed and accuracy over time and does not change ball roll as it ages. The higher speed is great for bank pool, straight pool and one pocket as well as traditional 8 and 9 ball.

It’s slightly faster than Simonis 860™, although 860’s higher wool content fights ball burn better over time. It is recommended that you combine your Simonis cloth with a set of Belgian Aramith phenolic billiard balls which, in conjunction with cleaning, will reduce burns from friction on the cloth surface. Aramith bullets are purely phenolic and have the toughest composition and heat resistance compared to other bullets with lower phenolic or polyester content (non-phenolic bullets) which degrade rapidly over time.

Residue on balls can cause friction that can burn or mark the surface of the cloth. While Aramith phenolic balls can burn the fabric surface, polyester balls leave behind some polyester. KEEP YOUR ARAMITH BALLS CLEAN – To protect the cloth you will achieve the best performance and appearance over time.

The combed worsted wool and the high thread density ensure long-lasting comfort.

Shop Simonis 760™ Cloth

Simonis 860™

Designed specifically for 9-Ball, Simonis 860™ has proven to be well suited for home use and the most popular color choices. Also great for ball action and traditional 8-ball. It is a blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon.

While the speed is slightly slower than 760, 860 cloth has been shown over time to be better at preventing ball burns than 760 due to its high wool content. The combed worsted wool and high thread count ensure long-lasting comfort.

It is recommended that you combine your Simonis cloth with a set of Belgian Aramith phenolic billiard balls which, in conjunction with cleaning, will reduce burns from friction on the cloth surface. Aramith bullets are purely phenolic and have the toughest composition and heat resistance compared to other bullets with lower phenolic or polyester content (non-phenolic bullets) which degrade rapidly over time.

Residue on balls can cause friction that can burn or mark the surface of the cloth. While Aramith phenolic balls can burn the fabric surface, polyester balls leave behind some polyester. KEEP YOUR ARAMITH BALLS CLEAN – To protect the cloth you will achieve the best performance and appearance over time.

Shop Simonis 860™ Cloth

Simonis 860HR™

Simonis 860HR™ (High Resistant) has a speed between 760 and 860 blends (second fastest Simonis pool towel – just ahead of Simonis 860), is 70% wool and 30% nylon (like blend 760) but is heavier than 760 for increased durability .

While the speed is slightly slower than 760, 860 cloth has been shown over time to be better at preventing ball burns than 760 due to its high wool content. The combed worsted wool and high thread count ensure long-lasting comfort.

860HR has the same thread count as 860 with the shaving process slightly altered to leave a surface that is more or less a 100% wool surface on the fabric, which is why the fabric does not show as many stains/shot burns as 760.

Due to the weight, blending and finishing of this cloth, the result gives the cloth commercial quality durability and professional quality performance and accuracy while withstanding the abuse in a high usage environment.

Recommended for commercial and home use.

It is recommended that you combine your Simonis cloth with a set of Belgian Aramith phenolic billiard balls which, in conjunction with cleaning, will reduce burns from friction on the cloth surface. Aramith bullets are purely phenolic and have the toughest composition and heat resistance compared to other bullets with lower phenolic or polyester content (non-phenolic bullets) which degrade rapidly over time.

Residue on balls can cause friction that can burn or mark the surface of the cloth. While Aramith phenolic balls can burn the fabric surface, polyester balls leave behind some polyester. KEEP YOUR ARAMITH BALLS CLEAN – To protect the cloth you will achieve the best performance and appearance over time.

Shop Simonis 860HR™ cloth

Can I iron pool table felt? Yes you can, but first you need to clean your iron and then clean the surface of your felt. Then iron smoothly and gently, one spot at a time. “Don’t iron more than twice over a single spot, and if the spot comes out flat on the first try, don’t iron it again.

Also, pay attention to the level settings of your iron before ironing the pool table. It can damage your felt. A perfect way to check the best setting is to try it on a newspaper first. But there is a way to iron the table so that it does not spoil. In this article you will learn how to reduce the risk of damaging the felt when ironing.

What to avoid when ironing a felt?

The following things you must avoid to protect your Felty from damage and a new purchase.

The number one reason you can damage the felt is carelessness.

In other cases, it occurs when you iron felt at a high temperature above 148°C (300°F).

It can also happen if your iron has stains on its surface. The felt can pick up these stains, which later affect ball movement on the playing surface.

It is also very important not to splash water on the felt; Either you do it with a simple iron or some other way.

Pool table irons mostly adjust their settings to do this work on the felt. However, if you do it with a traditional iron, you need to be extra careful.

Don’t rush to iron your felt. You will do far too much damage if you are hasty with this task. The normal job of the iron is to smooth out many types of fabric, but pool table felt is lighter than other fabrics.

Always make sure you turn off the steam on a regular iron and it should always be on the wool setting.

Also, before placing the iron on the felt, clean the iron surface until all dirt is removed.

The best way to iron a felt

Your pool table felt should be ironed evenly so that the surface does not cause friction and slow down the ball. To get the results you want, start by cleaning the entire iron, and hidden chalk or dirt can interfere with the movement of the balls.

If you don’t clean it completely, you will cure the felt. It’s best if you do your job in terms of the right temperature. Follow the steps below to get a smooth pool table surface.

Remove dirt and dust from the pool table. The best way to do this is to sweep the dirt all the way to the end of the table. Pass them through the table pockets with the help of the brush end. You need to handle the nap. It is a fluffy or woven material that lies slightly above the felt. You need to wrap the felt surface on the back of the brush to clean it. Now the corn stuff to the back, brush it thoroughly and brush the table again. Set your iron temperature between 290 and 300 F (143-148 C). It’s better to test it before ironing. You can test it on a paper surface. If it’s too hot and your paper burns, it will also scorch the surface of the pool table. After adjusting it to the correct height and testing it, place it on the pool table and try ironing it on the side to get a smooth felt. Iron the surface twice only if you still see an uneven surface and smooth out any line marks left by the iron. Do not over-iron as over-ironing can dry out the felt and reduce its shine.

Note: Make sure your iron never touches an upholstery. Due to its rubber material, iron can ruin it. Also, never try to iron with steam settings.

Preventive care increases longevity

You don’t have to start caring for your felt if you see something unwanted on it. Provide preventative care for your felt, no matter what it looks like. These simple measures will help you make your table last longer and avoid costly repairs. Below are some ways to prevent premature pool table wear.