Are you looking for an answer to the topic “pinstriping brush size chart“? We answer all your questions at the website https://chewathai27.com/ppa in category: https://chewathai27.com/ppa/blog. You will find the answer right below.
Table of Contents
What is the best brush for pinstriping?
Squirrel hair is most commonly used hair for pinstriping and lettering brushes. “Blue squirrel is the most readily available and comes in long lengths, as well as short lengths.
How do you hold a pinstriping brush?
To hold the brush correctly, place it between your thumb and index finger above the green wrapping on the brush called the ferrule. You will use your other finger as a bridge/guide to maintain a consistent distance on the painting surface/panel. Also, be sure to examine your brush – there’s a flat and curved side.
What are pinstripe brushes made of?
Pinstriping brushes have several different designs: Swords, Daggers, and Flats, as well as Double line brushes. The brush consists of a small wood dowel handle, string or brass fixture with adhesive and brush hairs traditionally made from squirrel hair (confusingly called camel hair).
How do you clean Mack brushes?
“Clean the brush out thoroughly, use hand soap and lather the hair well, shape it, lay it out flat for about a week, rinse the soap out and the brush will be re-trained.”
Pinstriping brush
They are less likely to be damaged by moths, paint, or mild solvents.
They are easier to clean.
If you use an acrylic paint, use a synthetic brush. Natural No animals are raised or captured for the sole purpose of brush making. Natural animal hair can be used in its pure state or blended with other hair types to achieve a specific blend of price and/or performance. Natural hair can hold a tremendous amount of color because of the microscopic scales along the hair shaft. The quality and price of natural hair is determined by the quality of the animal and by supply and demand. In general, longer hair is harder to find and more expensive than shorter hair. Types of Natural Hair Squirrel Hair Blue squirrel hair is the most readily available and comes in long lengths as well as short lengths. It is generally used for stripe brushes and callout brushes. Braun or Kazan is not as rich as it was a few years ago. It is generally found in the shorter lengths and used for stripers, quills and outliners. Both blue and Kazan are very soft and fine. They show just as well as Kolinsky but have very little bite as the hair is not very resilient. Gray squirrels are the hardest to find and the most expensive. It is more durable, has more pressure and works great as a pen or lettering brush. Camel Hair There are no camel hair brushes. Camel hair brushes got their name from “Mr. Camel” who invented it. Camel hair can be squirrel, ox, pony, goat, or a mix. Pony hair It comes from an animal at least two years old. It is very strong but also soft. The very finest pony hair comes from the belly of the animal. It is often mixed with other hairs for less expensive watercolor and touch-up brushes. Ox Hair The best ox hair comes from the ears of cattle or oxen. It feels very silky. It is also very strong, resilient and has a good snap. However, it lacks a fine tip, so it is usually mixed with other natural hair. Blending makes a brush more resilient and has more body. Red Sable This hair comes from any member of the weasel family that has red hair. It is not from the “Sable” animal. Many different brushes are made from it, and there are big differences in quality when you talk about “red sable”. The good quality red sable can be used as a cheaper alternative to Kolinsky. Very often red sable is mixed with ox hair to make a more economical brush, but unfortunately the fine point is sacrificed. Sableline This is usually light-colored ox hair dyed to resemble red sable. Some lettering and watercolor brushes are made with sabelin and mixed with sable to reduce the cost of the brush. Kolinsky Sable It comes from the tail of a mink. it is the best hair for watercolor and oil brushes because of its strength, spring and snappyness. It has a very fine point and will last for many years with proper care. Bristle It comes from pigs in different parts of the world, but the very best comes from China. Hog bristles differ from all other natural fibers in that they form a V-shaped split or “flag” at the tip and have a natural curve. This makes it resistant to fraying and distributes color smoothly and evenly. THE CARE AND FEED OF SWORD BRUSHES by Annabel Sherwood How to Pick, Trim and Groom a Striper’s Best Friend Imagine loading up a favorite striping brush with paint only to have it shed hairs all over the palette; or reach into that trusty kit only to discover a few chewed sticks. Believe it or not, many products that stripers have sworn by in the past can actually cause brush hairs to fall out or be eaten by mice. While these are worst-case scenarios, poor maintenance can ruin a brush. With proper care, however, a brush will last indefinitely—or at least long enough for its owner to make a reasonable profit from it. As with many aspects of pinstriping, the basic rule for choosing, trimming, and caring for brushes is whatever works. As one painter puts it, “Ask 10 stripers and you’ll get 11 different opinions.” While this is true, there are several commonly agreed ways to ensure swordbrushes live long and prosperous lives. A good craftsman takes good care of his tools. For peak performance, nothing beats a properly trimmed, cleaned and stored epee stripper.
Choose your weapon
There are two main tools to choose from when it comes to pinstriping – swords or daggers. Often referred to interchangeably, each brush is distinctly different. ” The longest hair of the sword is at the top and then slowly tapers to a short length at the bottom. A dagger sharpens and double-edged, explains Rick Glawson, owner of Wilmington, Calif.-based Fine Gold Sign Co. and Esoteric Sign Supply. Although daggers are useful for small, curved jobs, versatile swords remain the brush of choice for most stripers. Dating back to the early assembly lines, the Sword Brush was primarily used for touching up car paintwork. Over the years, brushes have evolved to better suit the needs of pinstripers, with short and long handles, large and small bellies (the middle section where the color is carried), and different hair types – squirrel hair being the most common . Brushes range in price from about $6.50 to $25 depending on the style and manufacturer. Each company has its own size scale, usually denoted by digits or a series of zeros. The larger the number, the more hair in the brush, the more color it will hold and vice versa. Choosing a brush is largely a matter of personal taste. “It depends on what fits in the person’s hand and what they’re most comfortable with,” says striper Howie Nisgor of Wappingers Falls, New York. However, he recommends a shorter grip length for beginners because it protrudes into the hand for better control. Trying out different brands and types is a constant trial and error process for most painters. “You don’t really know what kind of brush is right until you wet it and actually use it,” says Nisgor. Peter Millar of Quill Hair & Ferrule, a Columbia S.C. brush dealer, agrees. “It is very individual what works for each person. It also depends on what kind of work they want to do,” he says. For painting curves, Millar recommends brushes that have little hair in the belly area. “If you have a lot of hair in your stomach and you take a tight turn, the hair will kick out and cause your line to become thick,” he explains. Conversely, pulling long lines requires a big belly. “Ideally you want something that’s at least 1.50 or 10 feet long or more,” says Julian “Mr. J” Braet, a Lyndhurst, NJ. Striper and inventor of the Xcaliber brush. “Everyone has their own favorite,” he adds. And what do stripers do after they find a favorite? What else, they adjust it.
The brush cut
Manufacturers and painters disagree on the subject of trimming brushes. Although most brush manufacturers discourage reshaping any part of the brush, trimming is common. “Almost every pinstriper isn’t happy with the brush when they get it,” says Mike Fast, owner of brush manufacturer Andrew Mack & Son Brush Company of Jonesville, Michigan. “We don’t advocate trimming because you lose the softness if you trim it too much,” he says. Nevertheless, he accepts that most stripers work with trimmed brushes. “That’s what a lot of stripers do, and that’s okay,” says Fast. Brushes consist of three sections – the root, where the ferrule (the wire band or thread that holds the hair to the brush) is located, the belly section in the middle, and the terminal tip. Most artists either blunt the usually pointed tip of the brush or slightly alter the belly. Because a water-soluble sizing is used to keep the brushes stiff during shipping, they must be cleaned straight out of the box. “A lot of people don’t know what to do with sizing, so they throw the brush in a bucket of water and let it soak until the hair floats freely, and it starts shedding hair when you take it out,” says Glawson. Instead of soaking them, he suggests running the brush under a jet of water, adding a dab of dish soap, rinsing it out, and then drying and oiling it. After the sizing has been rinsed out, the brush is ready for shaping. Nisgor’s method of trimming the tip is to wet the hair, lay it flat on the palette, and use a small, quick clip to run the razor blade straight down from the tip. “I blunt the tip at a 45-degree angle, going top-left to bottom-right and aiming back at the handle.” Striping veteran Jim Bradley of Yuba City, Calif. also trims the tip of the brush, roughly trimming 1/16 inch down. “I like it when my line intersections are really square,” he explains. In addition to trimming the top, some stripers take a bit of hair from the belly to create tighter lines and sharper curves. This is usually done by removing a few hairs at the root of the brush. Both techniques must be performed very carefully. “If you take too much from the belly area, the brush loses its pressure and ability to keep the paint flowing out of the brush evenly,” explains Millar. When this happens, painters get so-called dry streaks, which means the paint doesn’t flow out smoothly because there are too many hairs at the tip of the brush. “The biggest mistake people make when trimming a brush is cutting too much hair out of the brush to reshape it,” agrees Nisgor. “If you try to change the belly of the brush, you change the entire flow of paint. I think you’re better off trying to get a brush that doesn’t require much modification,” he says.
Lather, rinse, repeat
After a quick rinse, a careful trim, and some serious streaking, it’s time for the most important and least exciting step – cleaning the brush. How to do this depends on when the brush will be used again and the type of paint – lettering paint, acrylic paint or urethane paint. Most stripers paint with lettering paint because it wipes off easily and is less harsh on the brush. Expect much shorter life from a brush when using varnishes and urethanes. These paints dry faster, and their solvents can eventually dissolve the glue that holds the brush together.” According to Millar, the trick is to use a good mix of solvents that are strong enough to dissolve the paint but mild enough to not not to damage the adhesive compound, and this varies from brush to brush. It is usually best to use the branded reducer or thinner specified for the paint. Use paint thinner for varnish based paints, urethane thinner for urethane enamels, and same brand thinner or mineral spirits for lettering enamels. For daily striping with lettering paint, most artists do not fully clean the brush. “I just put it in a mixture of half brush conditioner and half mineral spirits and laid the brush flat in a pan,” says Nisgor, crediting Blairstown, NJ painter Alan Johnson with the method. To fully clean a brush, Nisgor gives it a quick rinse and hangs the brush by a clothespin in a tall container of thinner so that the paint is drawn down from the brush. He picked up this trick from Bill Beckner, a striper from Canonsburg, Penn. Once the paint is out of the brush, Nisgor puts it in a mixture of thinner and brush cleaner, and finally rinses it off with thinner before oiling it. Mr. J decides to go a slightly different method, using dirty reducers to remove most of the paint from the brush, then detergent, some new mineral spirits, and finally Xcaliber brush conditioner. “I get as much paint out as possible, don’t scrub it, just wipe it out well. Then I pull it over a paper towel and then, of course, oil it well,” he says.
Checking the oil
Stripers have been known to use neatsfoot (beef oil), linseed oil, olive oil, and vegetable oils, but any type of food-based product tends to either lose its viscosity or become sticky. Car and lard oils also cause problems. “Painters kept brushes in gear oil and motor oil, and that was fine in 1930, but there were so many strong detergents and other additives put into the oils that make them better for cars but worse for brushes,” explains Millar. The problem with lard oil is that not only does it clot on your brush in cold weather and make a watery mess in the summer, but it can also go rancid or attract bugs like mice and roaches. According to Millar, stripers should find an oil that washes out easily, is non-abrasive, and is stable in hot or cold weather. Nisgor recommends using a light oil like Xcaliber. He also has a trick for brushes that bend. “Clean the brush thoroughly, use hand soap and lather the hair well, shape it, lay it flat for about a week, rinse the soap and the brush is retrained.” Ask a striper what kind of oil they use to shape the hair and moisturizing his brushes, and the answer will likely include everything from Vaseline to Johnson & Johnson. However, some oils are better than others. For a variety of reasons, Xcaliber, Sapphire and other oils specifically formulated for brushes have the highest recommendation.
Used for a dead brush
How do I prepare my car for pinstriping?
As with any paintjob, getting the surface right is essential. Clean the surface you are about to pinstripe thoroughly. Remove dirt along with wax, polish, and grease to leave a perfectly clean paint surface for the fresh paint to adhere to. Next, apply the JTAPE pinstriping tape along the side of your vehicle.
Pinstriping brush
Pinstriping dates back to the California hot rod culture of the late 1950s. During the culture’s heyday, characters like Von Dutch rose to prominence, and even today their work is admired for its legendary status.
Pinstriping can be surprisingly easy
Done well, pinstripes look great on a car and are part of a rich history of customization. It’s also one of the easiest types of customizations to do well – but while it’s simple, you still need to have a good eye for design and form to get the results.
The keys to good pinstriping are care, patience and choosing the right pinstriping tape from JTAPE!
pinstripe tape
To get a clean, sharp and perfectly defined line when pinstriping, you should use JTAPE Striping Tape or JTAPE Customizing Tape. Striping Tape is a pre-cut fine line masking tape with a central section (or sections) that can be removed to mask above and below the line, leaving a uniform width along the area you wish to paint.
It makes the work of the pinstripe uncomplicated because it allows you to define the area you want to paint in one go and then remove the middle section of the tape to reveal the area to be painted.
Prepare your surface
Good preparation leads to good results.
As with any painting, the right finish is crucial. Thoroughly clean the surface you plan to pin stripe. Remove dirt along with wax, polish and grease to leave a perfectly clean paint surface for fresh paint to adhere to.
Next, apply the JTAPE pinstripe tape to the side of your vehicle. Press the tape down firmly to remove bubbles and avoid wrinkles that could make the line uneven. Finally, peel off the release tape sections to create the striped effect you want.
Finally, tape the surrounding areas with regular JTAPE tape. This protects them from overspray that could spoil the effect of your striping.
When pinstriping, an even spraying process is important in order to get the cleanest possible lines. Once your paint is dry to the touch but not fully cured, you can gently peel away the masking and striping tapes to reveal your work and sit back and admire your result, Von Dutch style!
find out more
For more information on purchasing the right masking tapes for a great pinstripe result visit our online store or contact us to find out more about our full range of masking tapes and films.
Pinstriping scroll brush sizes
See some more details on the topic pinstriping brush size chart here:
BRUSHES – Graphic Commerce Ltd.
SIZE HAIR LENGTH PRICE. 0. 1 3/4”. 1. 1 3/4”. 3. 1 3/4”. 5. 2”. 6. 2 1/4”. BRUSHES. FOR PINSTRIPING, DESIGN & SCROLL WORK. 44. Oct. 22, 2018.
Source: www.graphiccommerce.com
Date Published: 4/20/2022
View: 6799
How to pick the right Pinstriping Brush – Eastwood Garage
For laying down stripes where there is no gue line, Eastwood sells rolls of flexible magnetic edge which stick to the se of the vehicle.
Source: garage.eastwood.com
Date Published: 10/20/2021
View: 4924
pinstriping brushes – Letterhead Sign Supply
Because a water-soluble sizing is used to keep brushes stiff during shipping, they need to be cleaned … Aqua-Oil Sword Pinstriping Brush Series-70 size 00.
Source: letterheadsignsupply.com
Date Published: 5/15/2022
View: 1695
sizing.pdf – Finesse Pinstriping
They are high gloss enamel p aints which are intermixable for color matching. •. High quality camel hair pinstriping brush. •. Brush oil to keep brush …
Source: finessepinstriping.com
Date Published: 1/20/2022
View: 1927
Mack Series 10 Pinstriping Brushes – Midwest Airbrush Supply
The Original Mack Sword Striping Brush A Newly Designed Brush Just For … Of Blue Squirrel Our New Blue Thread Ferrule Sizes 000 00 0 1 2 3 4 Head Wth: …
Source: www.midwestairbrush.com
Date Published: 5/4/2022
View: 383
Understanding Brush Sizing Systems – Jackson’s Art Blog
Brushes come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and brush sizes can differ between manufacturers. This article explains brush numbering …
Source: www.jacksonsart.com
Date Published: 9/15/2021
View: 7189
The Original Mack Sword Striping Brush (10) – Mack Brush
A brush designed just for pinstripers!
100% unblended blue squirrel hair
Handmade and shaped like many years ago
Particular attention is paid to quality control in terms of shape and cleaning
The very finest breed of blue squirrel
Blue ferrule
Available in sizes 0000 (new size), 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3 and 4 (see table below)
series 10
Mack Pinstriping Brushes
From the Mack Brush catalogue:
“The brushes we use to paint signs and pinstripes are all from
one of those two types of material that make up the tuft of a brush…
SYNTHETIC:
These are man-made from either nylon or polyester. They can be tipped, tapered, split, abraded, or even etched to increase the brushes’ ability to carry paint. The synthetic fibers can be dyed and baked to make them softer and more absorbent. The advantages of a synthetic brush are as follows:
1. They are very durable.
2. They are less likely to be damaged by moths, paint, or mild solvents.
3.They are easier to clean.
4.If using an acrylic paint, use a synthetic brush.
NATURALLY:
No animals are raised or captured for the sole purpose of making brushes. Natural animal hair can be used in its pure state or blended with other hair types to achieve a specific blend of price and/or performance. Natural hair can hold a tremendous amount of color because of the microscopic scales along the hair shaft. The quality and price of natural hair is determined by the quality of the animal and by supply and demand. In general, longer hair is harder to find and more expensive than shorter hair.”
TYPES OF NATURAL HAIR: camel hair, pony hair, ox hair, red sable hair, sabeline, Kolinsky sable hair, pig bristle and squirrel hair.
Squirrel hair is the most common hair used in pinstriping and lettering brushes.
“Blue squirrel is the most readily available and comes in both long and short lengths. It is generally used for stripe brushes and callout brushes. Braun or Kazan is not as rich as it was a few years ago. It is generally found in the shorter lengths and used for stripers, quills and outliners. Both blue and Kazan are very soft and fine. They show just as well as Kolinsky but have very little bite as the hair is not very resilient. Gray squirrel is the hardest to find and the most expensive. It’s more durable, has more bite, and makes a great pen or lettering brush. ”
Pinstriping, lettering and art brushes…
Series 10 – The Original Sword Strip Brush
-100% unmixed blue squirrel hair
-Handcrafted and sculpted
-Extra attention to quality control in terms of mold and cleaning
-The very finest breed of blue squirrel
-New blue thread ferrule
Series 20 Sword Striper pinstripe and touch-up brush
Used by all leading body shops for touch up paint and pinstripes.
Paint and Enamel Resistant The Sword style is best for all round work. Excellent for auto body touch ups and pinstripes
Series 30 Dagger Striper
100% pure, unmixed squirrel hair
* Stripers are paint and enamel resistant
* The dagger style is a valuable accessory for many purposes
* Finest squirrel hair
* Ferrule with dark green thread
KING 13 brushes by Todd Hanson
The brush has more traction during the manufacturing process and is therefore slightly tapered than a conventional striper. The amount of hair distributed on the handle during the manufacturing process is configured differently than the original 10 series.
Hot Rod Surf Brush
This is a multifunctional brush that’s great for freehand ’50s-style pinstiping and is durable enough for everyday professional use. Classic dowel handle with European-dressed blue squirrel hair.
Mack Longstriper 1111
A synthetic hair brush developed as a tribute to the Grumbacher 1010. Ideal for commercial work. Withstands wind and moisture very well.
Triple hippie stripe brush
The HIPPIE TRIPLE is a size 000 brush with full length hair. These bad guys drive like a sports car and wear enough paint to actually drop some lines without having to reload.
1644 The ultimate striper brush for long lines
Extra long striper. Ideal for long thin lines!
Features:
-wooden handle
-Gold ferrule
– Pure blue squirrel hair.
-This brush is in the shape of a Fast-Lite Striper.
Water-based 70 series pinstriping brush
Made with mixed hair to add fullness to the brush. Water based paint has higher density and we need to mix taklon with pure squirrel for body and print. A generous amount of pure squirrel ensures the brush can hold enough paint to make it a good striper.
Series 75 Taklon Striper Brush
This is a synthetic striper with a wood lacquered handle and a brass ferrule.
The long bob
IDEAL FOR BEGINNERS!
With the hair blend used, this offers medium versatility for lacquers as well as urethanes without sacrificing performance. The smaller sizes offer complicated design options in connection with very tight cornering.
The Wizard Black Widow Scroller Brush
Engineered for maximum control and response, to the specs of a seasoned scroll striper, it holds the line and delivers beautiful results.
Bobbo-Mack Super Quad 4 action brush
This brush makes scrolling easier and faster due to its shorter bristles and fine blue squirrel and black synthetic hair. It also draws short lines 2-4 feet long without having to change brushes. Also, you can write your signature very small and also create small script captions.
Mack Series 7800 Super Quad Brushes
This brush has the same features and capabilities as the Bobbo Super Quad but in a long handled version.
The Wizard Vortex Scroll Striper – Blue squirrel hair, gray handle
Steve Chaszeyka writes, “If you use Scroll Striping, you’re going to love this brush! After 30 years of scrolling we have created what I believe to be the best brush for this style. There are beautiful, controlled lines that respond precisely to your movements without the slightest hesitation, splitting or fraying in the turns. It holds its line throughout the pattern, giving you more response – like the most expensive brushes used for scrolling. I recommend this to both beginners and seasoned veterans of this style.”
The Wizard Typhoon Scroll Striper – Kazan Squirrel, Bronze Handle
Steve Chaszeyka writes, “Just a ‘hair’ faster than the Vortex, but for all the quality, this baby moves right away. As fast as you can think of a design, the Typhoon seems to read your mind and anticipate your next move. The hair has been selected for fast response time and accurate placement on any surface. I especially like this brush for motorcycle work because of the curved surfaces and the “forgiveness” of the brush in tight turns. I’m amazed by its performance every time I use it.”
Mack “The Virus” Series 444 Scrolling Script Brush
One of the sign industry’s most exciting and innovative new brushes, affectionately dubbed “The Virus”. The #444 series is a special blended golden taklon. Recommended by industry leaders, this theme is perfect for scrolling and scripting work.
Jenson’s Swirly Q Brushes
Designed for scrolling and script lettering with enamel based colors. Scroll striping requires thinner paint. If mineral spirits were used, the color would run more easily.
MACK DC Micro Script by DeWayne Connot
SYNTHETIC DETAIL BRUSHES ARE NO COMPARISON TO THE NATURAL HAIR AND POINTED DETAIL BRUSHES OF THE NEW MICRO SCRIPT BRUSH. YOU WILL RECEIVE THE FINEST SMALL LINES AND DELICATE TOUCHES YOU DID NOT EVEN BELIEVE POSSIBLE!
DC Micro Mono Brush Set by DeWayne Connot
After using synthetic brushes, one might wonder if a natural hair brush would be comparable and performant. This is exactly what the new Mirco Mono brush from Mack does. It’s a soft-haired brush with just the right amount of pressure! Writing small letters has never been easier with this brush.
MACK Series 179L Marker Pens
This brown quill pen is handmade in France and Germany by highly specialized brush makers. This pen is an indispensable tool in every sign painter’s kit. The brown nib works best on smooth surfaces like glass or car surfaces. Brown quills are slightly softer than the gray quills.
MACK Series 189L Marker Pens
The gray quill is also handmade in France and Germany and is just as important as the brown one as the essential brush for the sign painter. The 189 or 189L series is a universal lettering brush. The gray hair has more bite than the brown. It is used for general commercial work such as signs, truck lettering, boats etc. Gray hair is more durable than brown, and this brush is good for writing on most surfaces.
MACK Series 1962 Jet Stroke lettering brush
The 1962 series is an excellent all-round lettering brush. It is typically used for larger lettering and production lettering. It can also be used as a fill brush and as an outline for large letters. Due to the long hair length, the brush can hold a lot of paint. This brush is suitable for most surfaces. It is a mix of pure squirrel and black ox. It has a flat ferrule and the hair comes in graduated lengths.
Drag ‘n Fly brush set by Ted Turner
A soft and snappy fully synthetic (Teijin) longliner. Primarily intended for my own style of lettering, images and pinstripes. This brush set is great for small lettering, scripts, outlines of text and images.
Mack/Tidewell Brushes – Set of 6
“Mack/Tidwell brushes? Well, I didn’t plan to reinvent the wheel, but I wanted to make a brush set for other artists like me, illustrators working in some media. If you’re working on finks, eyeballs, monsters, etc., these brushes will prove invaluable. The purpose of the kit is to make all your detail work faster and easier, plain and simple. These brushes are great for lacquers, acrylics, oils…” – Jeral Tidwell
Mack/Tidewell Brushes – Set of 3
The 3-piece brush set includes:
“FIVE SPEED” is basically a #5 script/scroll brush since the Slim was basically a #3 or so.
“HEAVY” is a bit longer and thicker, so it has a ton of uses…seriously.
“ONE-LINER” This is a whole new brush…it’s amazing for outline, detail, med. too long lines within an illustration. -Jeral Tidwell
Mack Monster Stix brush by Jeral Tidwell
“These have synthetic bristles and can be used with 1 shot, acrylic, oil and any other paint you can think of…trust me I’ve tried.” – Jeral Tidwell
BROKEN PINKIES
“These have synthetic bristles and can be used with 1 shot, acrylic, oil and any other paint you can think of…trust me I’ve tried.” – Jeral Tidwell
Pinstriping brush
A pinstriping brush is the tool of traditional freehand pinstripers used for pinstriping. Freehand pin striping is the most difficult method of pin striping [citation needed] and the brush is an important tool in the design. Pinstriping brushes have several different designs: swords, daggers and flats, and double line brushes.[1] The brush consists of a small wooden dowel handle, string or brass attachment with glue, and brush hairs traditionally made from squirrel hair (confusingly called camel hair). The small wooden dowel is balanced so pinstripers can rotate the brush freely between their fingers. The short length of the dowel ensures that the brush does not hit the palm while placing the brush between the index finger and thumb. The bristles of a pinstripe brush are relatively long compared to most artistic brushes of a similar size, at around 2 inches or more. This long length is meant to hold the necessary amount of paint to pull a long string.
Cleaning and Storage[edit]
After each use of a pinstripe brush, the brush must be cleaned so as not to damage the brush after the paint has dried. The cleaning process consists of immersing the brush bristles in mineral spirits;[2]the brush is then laid down and the brush bristles are gently worked through to remove all paint and residue.[citation needed]
The brush hair is delicate and must be stored properly between uses. The brush should be laid flat and soaked in brush oil.
References[edit]
Sources[edit]
Related searches to pinstriping brush size chart
Information related to the topic pinstriping brush size chart
Here are the search results of the thread pinstriping brush size chart from Bing. You can read more if you want.
You have just come across an article on the topic pinstriping brush size chart. If you found this article useful, please share it. Thank you very much.
