Pool Table Refelting Near Me? All Answers

Playing pool is a fun and relaxing way to spend a Friday night with your friends. However, endless hours of fun can cause wear and tear damage. If this happens, you might be wondering about pool table refelting prices in your area.

How much does it cost to refelt a pool table in Australia? The average cost of refelting a pool table can range from $285 to $515. Other factors to consider when calculating the cost of refelting pool tables are your preferred pool table felt, type and color. Not sure where to start? This article will give you the details you need to know!

Cost of re-felting billiard tables

Before delving into how much it costs to refold a pool table, you must first identify the two types of pool tables that you may be familiar with. British/Australian pool tables and American pool tables. The main difference between the two is that an American table is larger than a British/Australian table. British/Australian tables are typically 6 to 7 feet in length. This is usually a good choice when placing your table in your home. This is also to give you enough space to walk around. On the other hand, American tables usually range from 8 to 9 feet.

The average cost of retrofitting a UK/Australian pool table ranges from $285 to $515. Once you’ve purchased a felt replacement, you can hire someone to do the work for you, with labor costs ranging from $100 to $299 depending on your location.

The price of refelting a pool table usually includes removing the old fabric and matching and marking the necessary lines and spots in your new fabric. Minor touch ups such as cracks and chips and leveling tables may incur additional costs depending on the complexity.

Here is an example cost of refelting a pool table for a UK/Australian table:

Size (UK/Australian table) Price range 7′ x 3′ $285 to $435 8′ x 4′ $330 to $440 9′ x 4′ $360 to $515

How much does it cost to refelt a pool table in Australia? Here are the labor costs per state:

State labor costs Melbourne $140-200 Adelaide $100 New South Wales $150-299 Victoria $120-200 Queensland $100-150 Brisbane $120-190

Pool towel made of wool vs. pool towel made of worsted yarn

Choosing the right pool tablecloth is important when re-felting your pool table. The two main types of billiard tablecloths are wool poolcloth and worsted poolcloth.

A wool pool towel has a velvety texture with the fibers being napped in a single direction. This is the most commonly used felt for pool tables. This cloth requires more maintenance than a worsted cloth because it needs more brushing. If you’re wondering how this cloth would affect your game, it usually imparts slower speed to the ball and allows experienced players to curve the balls. A wool pool towel starts at $120.

Worsted is woven in the worsted style, which makes it smoother and finer than the woolen pool towel. The fabric is comparable to the texture of cotton. It reduces friction, resulting in smoother and faster movement of the balls. This cloth keeps a higher quality and gives better games. A worsted starts at $120 and can go up to $700.

Fabric brands such as Eddit Charlton, Hainsworth, Matrix and Strachan are the most popular and are known for their quality and durability. Check out these brands to see what works best for you and your budget.

fabric color

The regular felt colors used at no extra charge are green, blue, red and burgundy. You will find that if you want a different color of felt than the four mentioned, you may pay an additional price to have your pool table re-felted.

Tips for maintaining your pool table

After you’ve re-felted your pool table, maintenance is your next step. You don’t want to have it re-felted every month or so. Here are a few tips for cleaning your pool table so it can perform at its best and live longer:

Use a brush designed to gently clean your felt. Remember to brush lightly in one direction.

Vacuum the bags. A helpful tip is to brush the dust in the bag and vacuum them together.

If you spill liquid on your table, never rub it off with a cloth. Instead, use a clean, dry towel and lightly dampen it on the area to absorb the liquid.

If there is a stain, you can use a mixture of water and vinegar, pour it over the spot and dampen the towel until it absorbs the liquid.

Clean the wooden part of your table with a regular cloth. Wipe thoroughly and use wood polish to keep it nice and shiny.

Clean the billiard balls with a conventional cloth to remove dust and debris.

You can choose to set up a small table near your pool table so your friends can place their drinks in that area instead. This will help you avoid hard-to-remove stains and stains.

How do I know if it’s time to re-felt a pool table?

If you are unsure if you already need to refelt a pool table, here are a few things to consider:

If your felt is looking old and tattered from normal wear and tear, it’s probably time to re-felt it. A small defect in the felt affects your game. Make sure you cover your pool table when not in use to prevent dirt build-up, spills and scratches.

Check the texture of the surface and see if you’re starting to see lint.

If you are tired of seeing the color of your felt, you can choose to change it. Additional charges may apply when selecting a color outside of green, blue, red, and burgundy.

The usual felt quality deteriorates after five years. If you’ve been using your pool table for more than five years, it’s time to do a quality check and see the signs listed above.

How do I find a billiard table refelting professional?

Finding a professional to do the job is easy. Once you post a task on Airtasker, nearby specialists will make offers to get the job done. Their profiles may include their portfolio, which can help you decide who to hire. You can also check with all-round workers who specialize in fitness equipment installation as they may add pool table re-felts to their list. It is important that companies providing services are registered. You can search for licensing questions at the Australian Business License and Information Service (ABLIS). One last reminder to check if it’s under warranty so you don’t have to worry if some things don’t go the way you wanted them to.

If finding a pool table refelting pro is unnecessary stress, we’ve got you! Airtasker can help you find someone who will do quality work that is within your budget.

Choosing the right color for your pool table felt is more important than you might think. You want the pool table to look good and more importantly you want to be able to play or practice pool on it without the felt color being an issue.

So how do you choose the right pool table felt color?

Avoid black or colors that are too dark. Don’t go too bright if you have bright lights. Consider the decor of your room and the table. Consider your preferences. Visit a showroom to get a better feel for specific colors

If you keep these five tips in mind when choosing the best felt color for your table, you shouldn’t run into any problems. Read on to learn more about each tip and why it’s important.

Choosing the right table felt color

For the most part, the color of the felt on a pool table isn’t going to make much of a difference in how you play the game, but if you want your pool table to look good in the space you have for it, then felt color makes a big difference .

We’ve put together this list of tips to help you make the best choice when purchasing new felt for your pool table.

Tip #1: Avoid black or dark colors

Black felt on a pool table undoubtedly looks fantastic. It’s sleek and edgy, but it’s not a good color to play with. Here’s why:

Creates super dark shadows

The 8-ball art disappears on it

The bag disappears into the dark shadows, making it difficult to photograph

So if your primary concern is having a pool table that looks cool, black felt will do, but if you actually want to practice and play on the table, go for a lighter color.

Tip #2: Consider the decor of the room and table

Of course, you should consider the room you are placing the table in, as well as the color and style of the table. An ornate wooden table might look great with a dark brown cloth, while a polished dark table might look better with a muted shade of gray.

Also consider your pool table lamp. If your pool table lamp is bright green, you probably don’t want neon orange felt.

Tip #3: Don’t choose too light a felt

If you want a nice bright light over your pool table, you should avoid a table felt color that is not too light. The brightness of the light combined with the brightness of the felt can bother your eyes. Some people even report that it gives them a headache.

So if your light is bright, go for something a little more muted, go for a deep burgundy over a bright red and a jewel blue over a light blue.

Tip #4: Think about what colors you like

You don’t want to pick a color you don’t like just because you think it will look good in your space. Chances are you can find a color that goes well with your space and pool table and a color that you like.

Blue, green, and red are typical pool table felt colors, but don’t be afraid to branch out. If you don’t want to go too wild, stick with neutral tones.

Remember that the chalk you use will be less visible if it’s the same color as the felt. If you have a penchant for blue chalk, stick with blue felt. For more information on choosing billiard chalk, see our post What is the Best Billiard Chalk?

Tip #5: Visit a showroom

In showrooms you can touch samples of different felts in all available colors. You can see how they look under the lights in the showroom and then lean against different pool tables.

This should give you an idea of ​​how the felt will look in your home and on your table.

Overall, the color of the felt doesn’t play too much of a role. Just don’t go too dark or too light and you should be fine. If you need an overhaul of all your pool table accessories, you might want to check out our post 20 Different Pool Table Accessories.

The great thing about pool tables is that they are relatively easy to maintain. Unlike a car, there are no expensive parts that can break, no computers or electronics that suddenly have problems. The number one thing that goes into maintaining any of the pool tables we sell is to ensure that the cloth is always in good condition.

Pool tables can last a lifetime in a home environment as long as they are cared for. We recommend that your cloth is always brushed after each game. This prevents dust from penetrating the pile of the cloth and also prevents chalk residue.

The biggest problem is putting drinks on pool tables, it’s not ideal but we know it happens. You have a couple of friends, one of them puts a beer on the rail and the next moment it splashes on your nice clean pool towel. It is best to use kitchen roll here, place it over the liquid and let it soak in. Whatever you do, don’t rub! This can damage the pile of the fabric, causing wobble and uneven wear.

Pool tables in commercial settings are usually in fairly poor condition, complete with stained fabric. It’s very difficult to get a beer stain out of the cloth, there can always be a slight discoloration, but that depends on the color of your cloth and the color of the drink. If you feel it’s too noticeable, you can buy aerosol pool table cloth cleaners. It’s similar to a dry cleaning spray, but read the instructions carefully before you start using it.

Some cloths, particularly on our American pool tables, are coated with Teflon which means that splashes are likely to blister the cloth and not penetrate the fabric as long as you soak it up in time.

Over time, the vividness of the cloths on any pool table will fade, especially if they are in a conservatory. We always recommend purchasing a cover when storing your table in an area like this. It will still fade, of course, just a lot slower.

The general wear and tear of a fabric may vary. In commercial settings, the cloths on the pool tables should be salvaged every 6 months. In a home environment, the cloths can last up to 4 years on a pool table depending on how much you play.

We restore any type of pool table at Home Leisure Direct, both English and American pool tables, and usually for the same reason that a home customer is redecorating and wanting a color change, not because the cloth is worn.

Your cloth will wear out and be subject to ball fires, this happens with every single pool table we sell. Ball burns are a natural occurrence when playing billiards. It shows up as small flashes on the cloth or white spots on the playing surface caused by the friction of the ball being hit and moving quickly on the cloth. To minimize this we recommend purchasing Aamith phenolic resin pool tables which will minimize it but not completely prevent it. It’s just part of owning a pool table and what happens to it.

I hope you have found this guide to pool table care and how to maintain your table useful. If you have any questions, please let us know in the comment box below.

Written by Michelle Beresford

Pool tables don’t require much maintenance once set up and leveled outside of the occasional cleaning, but you can’t skip changing the felt. The quality of your felt will affect how well the balls move across the table, so it’s important that your felt is in good condition.

How long does pool table felt last? How long the felt will last on your pool table depends on how often you play pool and how well you take care of the felt. In general, if you play billiards on a daily basis, you can expect the felt to last 3-5 years.

If you don’t play daily (or almost daily), your felt can last twice as long. In this article, we’ll go over what you can do to extend the life of your felt and how to know when it’s time to replace it.

How to extend the life of pool table felt

If your pool table gets a lot of use, that’s fantastic. It means you’re getting your money’s worth off the table. However, it also means that your felt will wear out faster. The interaction between the felt, balls, and chalk on a pool table eventually causes the felt to wear out.

Even if you play daily, you can breathe more life into your felt by taking good care of it. We’ve put together this list of best practices to help you keep your felt in good condition for longer.

Use a pool table cover when the table is not in use.

Brush the table regularly to keep it clean.

Consider using a vacuum with an upholstery brush to remove chalk from the table.

Do not allow any drinks or food on or near the table.

Don’t take scoop shots.

Do not allow pets on the table.

Don’t chalk across the table.

Keep your billiard balls clean.

Wipe the rails. Dirt on the rails can get onto the bed.

Remember that sunlight will fade the felt.

If you follow these guidelines, your pool felt will surely last longer than if you didn’t. On the other hand, most people want to change their felt color long before the felt wears out. If you like to change up your decor often, special care may not be as important to you.

We have some very helpful posts if you are looking to remove a stain from your pool table or remove the chalk.

When to change your pool table felt

Because felt wear is largely dependent on how often you use your pool table, it’s not easy to remember your next felt change. You need to keep an eye on your felt.

Signs your felt needs changing:

It looks like it needs to be replaced. If the felt looks like it needs replacing, it most certainly does.

It feels bristly.

It has become corrupted.

It bulges when you push in with your hand.

It shows any signs of looseness.

If your pool table felt is showing any of these signs, whether you like it or not, it’s time to have it replaced.

How much does it cost to replace pool table felt?

Replacing the felt on a pool table will definitely cost hundreds of dollars. Most replacements cost between $300 and $500 depending on the size of the table and the quality of the felt.

You can save some money by buying a piece of felt from Pooldawg and re-felting the table yourself, but it’s not recommended. Even a small mistake can result in an annoyingly imperfect playing surface. But if you’re familiar with DIY methods and have thoroughly researched the process, it’s possible and will save you a few hundred dollars.

Playing a good game of pool, whether with a friend or a stranger, is meant to be a pleasant and leisurely pastime. The game is a contest of skill between two opponents of equal caliber, and if not of equal caliber then at least on an equal field.

Like any other sport, take basketball or football for example, even if the talent is not the same, the playing field is the same. In basketball, no matter where the two teams play, the court is 94 feet long and 50 feet wide. In football, opposing teams know they are fighting on a field that is exactly 100 yards long and 53 1/3 yards wide. In any case, players know that they will be playing on a pitch or field without irregularities and without surprises. The same cannot always be said for the game of billiards.

When a pool table is not properly cared for, there can and will be many irregularities and surprises. These insecurities surely make for an annoying and frustrating game without any pleasure.

5 ways to test your pool table for damage

From time to time you may need to have the felt surface of your pool table repaired or replaced. While that’s true, you should almost never need to replace your table’s rail pads.

With proper use and care, a pool table’s rail pad rubber has a lifespan of 25-50 years. This lifespan will be greatly reduced if your table is used improperly, exposed to extremes of temperature or humidity, or stored improperly.

Extreme heat, cold or humidity can cause your table’s rail rubber to become brittle or very hard. Here are five tests you can run to determine if your pool table has suffered significant rail rubber damage:

Listen – Shoot a ball in each track. The ball should rebound at a moderate to high speed, but most importantly, you should be able to hear the exact same sound as you walk around the table. Squeeze – Using the pressure of your fingers, systematically walk around the table and squeeze the rail pads of your table. You should be able to squeeze the pillow a moderate distance between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch. Feel – Run your hands with your fingers around and under the table rails where the edges hang over the table’s playing surface. You feel for worn grooves and tracks under the felt. If you find any, it is an indication of worn cushions. This type of wear causes the rails to “bounce” less. Spin – Shoot a ball straight into each rail with high speed and moderate topspin. If the ball bounces more than 1 inch, the rail pads likely need to be replaced. Rebound – Slowly roll a ball up each rail and watch the reaction. If the ball comes to a standstill, your rails are worn and need to be replaced. If, on the other hand, the ball bounces back into the field, everything is fine. Also note the rebound angles. If the rebound matches the angle of incidence, you’re in good shape.

4 must-have pool table accessories for proper table maintenance

Pool Table Cover – Always cover your table after use, no exceptions. Horse Hair Brush – You might be tempted to buy a synthetic bristle brush, but horse hair is much softer and gentler on the table felt. Vacuum – Use a low-suction vacuum to remove dirt from the table surface. Soft towels – Dirty balls cause excessive wear on the playing surface. Use hot water and a soft towel to clean them every few games.

With these tips, you can enjoy your table for many years to come.

Pool table felt and cloth

New pool cloth not only looks immaculate, it plays like a dream too. The balls roll as if on glass. Hopefully they’re headed for a pocket, but that’s up to you. If your table is overdue for a restoration, you’re in luck: we have some great options to make your table look and play great again.

There are very few things that compare to a game of billiards on a table with a fresh new cloth. At least, that’s what we believe here at PoolDawg, and that’s why we only stock towels from the most trusted brands in the business. Admittedly we are biased, but believe that the real rolling of a pool ball across a new pool tablecloth inspires passion, just like the first tracks on a powder snow day, water skiing on a perfectly calm lake or skating on freshly Zambonied ice. Oh, and it’s like shuffling through a stack of crispy hundred dollar bills. (We also love crisp hundred dollar bills.)

What you need to consider when buying billiard tablecloths

Pool tablecloth – sometimes called “pool table felt” – is made from a combination of wool and usually nylon. Worsted is the best fabric and is not actually “felted” – the wool goes through a spinning process that eliminates the blur on the surface. Simonis makes a high quality worsted yarn and the Championship Tour Edition cloth also stands out and is also a tournament quality cloth.

A good pool tablecloth will increase your passion for the game. The Simonis 860 for example offers the best control and is used in almost all professional events, while the Simonis 760 is the fastest rubber. The 860HR is a hybrid of both. Among the cheaper options, the Championship Invitational is durable and a relatively fast cloth. The Mercury Ultra is also fast.

A tip: to make your shawl last longer, use high-quality balls that leave fewer burn marks from the friction of the spinning balls.

Installation of your pool tablecloth

We’re still awaiting the technology to design a cover that installs itself, but no cubes yet. In the meantime, here are some basics:

• The fabric is usually supplied in one piece – enough to cover the bed and railings

• You will need to cut six 6″ strips (or we can do that for you if you use our $10 rail cutting service)

• Rails are pre-cut with Championship Invitational cloth

• There is a difference between above and below

• The bodice has clear, distinctive stitching; the ground may be blurred

• We have a DIY pool table felt installation guide to save you hundreds of dollars if you do it yourself

• To find a local installer, do an online search for “pool table services” and include your city and state

Get a real roll with PoolDawg

Whether you call it pool tablecloth or felt, it’s the quality of the material that will have a drastic impact on your game. Fortunately, we offer fabrics from the industry’s leading manufacturers: Simonis and Championship.

When it’s time for a pool table felt replacement, remember the basics: worsted is better than “felt” for the pool table; different types offer better control or more speed; and most importantly, at PoolDawg we are always ready to help you choose your billiard felt or worsted and to answer all your questions. Contact us today.

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An overview of billiard table parts and layout

In many of our posts on how to play popular pool games – including 8-Ball, 9-Ball, Cutthroat Pool and other fun pool games – we mention different parts of the table to explain the basic rules of each game.

So, in order to understand the rules, you should at least know what these terms mean.

Luckily, the anatomy of the pool table is fairly easy to understand.

But to make it even easier for you, we’ve prepared a basic overview of pool table anatomy, including where things are on the table and what they mean.

Now, when someone says something like “put your hands on the ball behind the headline,” at least you know what they’re talking about.

This one small billiard cue accessory will change your game. If you can only afford one tool to maintain the tip of your cue, then the Cuetec Bowtie Tip Tool is it: 3-in-1 tool to help your tip hold the chalk better. Avoid mistakes. Small enough to fit in your pocket.

Pool Table Anatomy 101

Parts of the pool table defined

apex of the triangle

This is the top of the rack. In some games you need to place a specific ball on top (e.g. the 1 ball in a 9 ball game) and line it up with the foot spot.

middle string

The center cord runs between the two side pockets and intersects the midpoint (dead center of the pool table). This is an imaginary line used as a reference point.

corner pockets

There are four corner pockets on a pool table. Become familiar with these as you begin to designate your shots (e.g., 5-ball, right corner).

The opening of a corner pocket (aka “mouth”) should be a minimum of 4 ⅞ inches and a maximum of 5 ⅛ inches. The entry angle of a corner pocket is 142° (± 1°).

pillow

The cushion is the felt covered rubber inside of the rails on the pool table. For example, you can hear that balls have to be driven off the boards during a break. Cushion is often used interchangeably with the terms “rail” or “bench”.

Diamonds (aka Landmarks)

The diamonds on the table rails serve as references or target points. These inlaid marks are spaced along the short rails (ends of the table) in one-fourth increments and along the long rails (side rails) in one-eighth increments.

For advanced players, the diamonds are used to benefit from the “diamond system”; a mathematical approach to planning multi-bank shots.

The rest of us use the diamonds to help us aim and understand where the head and foot lines are.

foot of the table

This is the end of the table where the balls are placed. They break from the top of the table to the bottom of the table.

base

The foot point is the point at the foot end of the table between the second diamonds on the long rail. It also aligns with the center diamond on the short rail.

This is the “rack end” of the table where you “spot the ball” and where you should place the top object ball when playing an 8-ball or 9-ball game.

The “foot point” is commonly mentioned in the rules and instructions for most billiard games. Now you know exactly where it is!

foot cord

The foot cord is an imaginary line between the second diamonds on the long rail at the foot of the table. It goes through the base. This is mainly used as a reference point for positioning and understanding the layout on a table.

head of the table

This is the end of the table that the shooter breaks away from. This is where the billiard table manufacturer usually puts his type plate.

head point

Opposite the foot patch is the head patch. At this point, the imaginary line of the head string intersects between the second diamond on the long rail and the middle diamond on the short rail.

head cord

The Head Strong is an imaginary line that runs at the head of the table between the second diamonds on the long rail.

The area behind the head string is where you break off and where you need to place the cue ball after a scratch in an 8-ball game, for example.

You will often see that in a game like 8-Ball, the cue ball must be “held in hand behind the head string.” It just means you can place the cue anywhere behind the second diamonds on the long rail.

If your table doesn’t have diamonds or visors, now you know that the head cord is behind the “head point” to make things easier.

playing area

The playing surface is the flat, level (hopefully) felt-covered surface on which you play billiards. The playing surface of a higher quality table consists of slate. These tables usually need to be properly installed and leveled by professionals.

Lighter and less expensive pool tables use an MDF playing surface. These don’t last as long and tend to warp, but are often good budget-friendly options.

The playing surface for a full size table should measure 50″ x 100″.

side pockets

There are two side pockets positioned in the middle of the table. The openings should be between 5 ⅜ and 5 ⅝ inches wide. The angle at a side pocket entrance is 103° (± 2°).

There you have it. A basic overview of parts of the pool table.

Understanding the anatomy of billiard tables will make it easier for you to learn how to play new games and how to hit challenging shots.

Then it’s time to tackle your next challenge: learning how to play billiards.

Overview of the installation guide

Scroll down if you prefer a helpful video installation guide.

There are no standard guides on the market for pool table recovery. The information provided here is intended to help you restore your pool table. There are many different brands and styles of pool tables so the information here is intended as a very basic DIY restoration guide. Remember that pool table work is a very specialized field and professionals gain their experience by doing hundreds of pool table jobs. Brands and styles of pool tables vary, but the basic concept of covering or restoring for the first time is pretty much the same when it comes to working with felt and slate. Most pool table mechanics have their own style of work, but the end results are usually the same.

We do not charge for this information and we do not guarantee results as table restoration is generally best left to professionals. However, if you are handy and want to try and save between $250-$500 in labor costs, here is the information that can help you.

Before you begin, try to get a good feel for how the job must go by examining how the old cloth was applied to your rails and slate. Don’t peel off the old cloth until you have your new cloth and are ready to start working. Start with the rails and do 1 rail at a time. This way you can use the other rails as a reference. Use the pool table as a workbench as it is a flat surface and you don’t have to worry about the old duvet as it will be replaced. Take your time and always be careful where you make cuts on the new cloth. It’s also a good idea to keep your tools on the floor, in a chair, or in a tool box so you don’t accidentally damage the new cloth you’re applying.

Tools and consumables needed

Light staple gun

1/4″ lightweight staples

Rubber mallet or mallet and flat tapping block for setting spring strips

2″ seam roller if spring strip is flexible plastic

Awl or thin flat head screwdriver and needle nose pliers for removing staples

razor blades and handle

Turn to glue when gluing fabric to slate

3/8″ socket wrench set with extension handle

Flat and Phillips screwdrivers

Additional elements if slates are also set

Even

Robust flat or Phillips screwdriver for slate screws

Shims or wedges for leveling slate

4″ spatula for applying putty to slate seams

Small tub of DAP qwik-dry slate seam joint compound or beeswax (you will need a propane torch to melt the beeswax).

Alternatively you can use Bondo which may require some finishing touches.

Let’s start with the rails

For the rails, notice that you have 4 rails with a flat side (side pockets) and 2 rails where both ends are angled (end rails). For the side pocket rails, start at the angle end and work steadily toward the flat end. For the end rails, start at one angle end and go 1/3 to the other end. Then go to the other angle end and do the same. Now tack in the middle and work your way to each end.

Make 1 splint at a time, remove the old cloth, attach the new cloth. Take your time. If you break a wooden spring strip while removing it, that’s okay, you can still use it. Try to keep it in one piece if possible and be careful when reapplying. If you’re using a flexible spring strip, it may stretch a little when you reattach it, so it’s okay to cut the end off to fit the channel. Use a wallpaper seam roller to apply. Regardless of what type of female connector you use, you should make sure it is flush with the top of the rail. Before turning the fabric and rail over to tack, make sure no dirt gets caught under the fabric or you will feel it in the fabric when you’re done.

A common question is how tight do I pull the cloth? The answer isn’t so tight that you create waves in the fabric, but tight enough to eliminate any looseness. Also, a common mistake is not placing the staples close enough together. Spreading the staples too far apart can cause buckling later. You should use 1/4 inch staples. The average distance between staples is about 1 inch.

The end result of covering splints is to get rid of any creases where the cloth is showing. Under the rail it doesn’t matter, fold as much as you like, but on top it should be smooth and taut (no creases when you run your finger over it). If you make a mistake or the cloth doesn’t run properly, loosen the clamp and rework the rail. Even professionals sometimes find themselves removing a few staples to get it right. If there’s one area where you should take your time, it’s on the rails. If you use these correctly, your table will look good and play as it should.

Proceed to the bedding

A few things to consider before attaching the duvet. First, make sure your table is level. Make minor adjustments with wood shims or playing cards if needed. Check the seams in your slate. Whether you use joint compound, beeswax, bondo, etc., the seams should feel smooth when you run your hand over the seams. You may need to refinish the filler to get this right. Work quickly and remove excess putty so no sanding is required. A spatula or razor blade works well for this.

If there are slate screw holes in the center of the table, make sure they are filled and smooth. The slate screw holes around the perimeter of the slate do not need to be filled as long as the holes are “completely under the rails”. Tip: Minor adjustments to slate leveling can be made by adjusting the tightness or looseness of the slate screws. Be very careful when working with slate screws as these tend to pop off the heads fairly easily and are extremely difficult to remove once loosened.

Use a damp cloth and wipe dust and residue off the slate. Once dry, use your palms to sweep the entire bed of slate again. This allows you to feel for bumps and indentations in the slate and remove or repair bumps before applying the sheet. You certainly don’t want to feel any bumps and holes once you’ve installed the entire comforter.

Work one edge of the table at a time, starting at one end, then the other, then each side. There are two ways to attach the sheet, with clips or with glue. Both methods work just as well as the other, and it’s best to use whichever method was previously used on your table. Stapling is a little quicker as long as your table has a wood slate insert to hold the staples, but if the table is really old and has been restored many times it might be better to use glue. If you use glue, try to keep it away from your fingers as you may end up with glue residue on your playing surface when working with the cloth. Always be aware of where overspray is going.

If using glue, only spray the vertical edge and about 1 inch beyond the slate edge. Also spray the cloth where it meets the slate. Place paper or cardboard on top of the felt to avoid spraying over the rest of the cloth. Work 1 side or finish at once. After spraying, allow about 3 minutes to dry before doing anything. Spray adhesive can be used for about 5 minutes. So if the cloth doesn’t hold up as you want, lift it off, cut it off and reapply it. Don’t use more glue unless the cloth won’t stick to the slate. After attaching the cloth, run a ruler, seam roller, or your hand along the edge to smooth out any air bubbles.

Whether you use glue or staples, start at one end of the table. Then move to the other end, give the cloth a good stretch and apply. Smooth the cloth and apply 1 long side without stretching. Then when you apply the other side, give it a good stretch. The sheet is fitted correctly when you can run your hand across the bed and there is no looseness or rippling in the sheet when it is fastened on all 4 sides.

Be very careful when cutting your pocket areas. Think twice, cut once. In the pocket area, feel the lower edge of the slate with your thumb. This is where you start your cut. Make it a little flat as you can always cut a little more if needed. Once all your cuts are made, make sure the cloth (looks like fingers) will roll under the table without being too tight. If it’s too tight, cut a little more into the cloth. Now you can staple in your pocket area, or if using glue, spray the vertical slate edge and 1″ below the slate. Also spray the fabric fingers from underneath. Roll the fabric fingers under the slate and smooth them out.

Once the bed sheet is installed, cut holes in the sheet for the rail studs. Feel the holes under the slate and then cut out the holes. There are generally 3 rail bolt holes for each rail.

When installing the rails, first loosely tighten all rail screws. Then run your eyesight along each long side, making sure both rails are straight. Now check the measurements with a tape measure from side rail to side rail and end rail to end rail. Measure from point to point where the ball would hit the rails. The dimensions should be 39 x 78 inches for a 7 foot table, 44 x 88 inches for an 8 foot table, 46 x 92 inches for an oversized 8 foot table and 50 x 100 inches for a 9 foot table -table amount. Make any necessary adjustments, then recheck the long sides to ensure both rails are straight. When satisfied, tighten the rail bolts. Be careful not to overtighten the rail bolts or you will drive them right through the rail.

Much luck!

Note: Stretchy Fabric – Worsted fabrics such as Simonis and Proform do not stretch as much as wool pile fabrics. The idea is to get the cloth you use firm enough that it doesn’t pucker, crease, or feel loose when you run your hand over it.

Your pool table is another piece of furniture in your home that needs regular cleaning to keep it looking good. One area of ​​the pool table that is difficult to keep clean is the pool table felt that is used over the playing surface.

What not to do when cleaning a pool table

While it can be tempting to clean your pool table like your other furniture, you could potentially damage the felt and your table. The first thing to remember is that you should never use a vacuum or vacuum tool attachments on the pool table felt.

The full suction power of the vacuum cleaner can pull on the felt and detach it from the table. In doing so, you stretch the cloth and leave creases and other imperfections on the playing surface. Then, when you play your next game of billiards, you will find that the balls do not roll properly and fly in the desired direction.

Another thing you should never do is use harsh chemical cleaners on your pool table. These products contain chemicals that will stain your table, strip the finish from the wood, and cause other damage.

Tips and tricks for cleaning a pool table

Now that you know what not to do when cleaning a pool table, here are some tips to keep your pool table looking good.

#1. Obtain a pool table brush that is designed to clean pool table felt.

This brush is available from your pool table supplier. A pool table brush has one end where the bristles are longer than the others to get under the rails. In addition, the bristles should be soft.

#2. Always brush the felt in a straight direction.

You don’t want to use circular motions or move the brush back and forth. Instead, start in a corner of the pool table and move the brush from end to end, making sure the longer bristles run along the outside edge under the rail.

#3. Clean the brush after each pass.

After each pass, stop from end to end on the pool table felt to clean the brush to remove dust and dirt. Otherwise, just transfer it to another area on the table.

#4. Start by cleaning the felt on the rails first.

Cover the bristle part of the brush that runs over the wooden part of the rail with a microfiber cloth. You just want the bristles to brush across the felt on the rails. Again, move the brush in one direction around the pool table.

#5. Second, clean the surface of the play area on the pool table.

You should clean the rails first and then the playing surface, as chalk dust and dirt will be brushed off the rails onto the playing surface and into the pockets. You have a few different cleaning options when cleaning the play area.

You could start at one end of the table and brush the dust and dirt to the other end of the table. Repeat this process until the entire surface is brushed. Then brush the dust and dirt towards the corner pockets. Use your dust pan or rag to pick up as much dust and dirt as possible.

Your other option is to brush from one end of the table to the center of the table and stop. Your goal is to get all the dust and dirt to the center of the table. Then sweep the dust and dirt into a dustpan with a protective rubber

#6. Use a clean, damp microfiber cloth to clean the pool table bags.

Some people consider using a vacuum crevice tool to clean the pockets. However, this only leads to the temptation to clean the felt with it. Instead, it is better to wipe them by hand with a clean cloth.

#7. Use an approved wood cleaner to dust and clean all wood surfaces on the table.

You can ask your pool table supplier to recommend the right wood cleaning product to clean the wood parts of your pool table.

#8th. Clean the billiard balls.

Use a mild dish soap mixed in warm water to clean the billiard balls. Dampen a clean cloth with soapy water, wring it out and wipe the balls. To rinse the balls, you can run them under cold water to remove excess soap. Then allow them to air dry or dry them with a clean, dry cloth.

#9. Clean stains with a clean cotton cloth.

Most people will use a white cotton cloth to see the stain absorb into the pool table felt. Dampen a clean cloth with warm water and wring out most of the water. Never use soap or detergent as this can leave residue on the felt.

Place the damp cloth directly on the stain and press directly. Leave the cloth on the stain for about 10 minutes and do not rub. You can blot the stain by pressing directly down. Repeat this process, being careful not to saturate the felt, until the stain is removed.

These tips can help you maintain the appearance of your pool table. If you have additional questions about cleaning pool table felt, recommended cleaning products, or would like to learn more about our custom made pool tables, contact Blatt Billiards today at 212-674-8855!

CORNERS AND CRACKS

Why are snooker tables green? According to the Hamlyn Encyclopaedia of Snooker, the game was originally played on grass (?!), “so when the game was brought indoors and played on a table, the green cloth was used to make the playing surface look like grass.” Terry Edwards, London E1. THE MANUFACTURE of standard green snooker tables dates back to a decision at the Plymouth Petty Sessions on December 8, 1871. Before that, tables were made in a variety of colors, but were mostly orange. With the poor lighting of the day, it was difficult to see the precise movements of the ball on the table. This often led to disagreements and arguments between players. In the case pending before the court, Arthur Terry, a Marine, was charged with “violently harming a Riland Metcalfe in the course of a scuffle that took place between them after a dispute over the movement of balls in a game of ‘snooker’.” . Terry was found guilty, but was allowed to leave the court with impunity because, in the judge’s opinion, “Terry was not entirely at fault as the color of the table was partly at fault.” Game would be more advanced if the snooker tables were made in standard green, giving a stark contrast to the red of the ball.” G. A. Ilbert, Plymouth. Because they do not emit carbon dioxide. Pete Wigens, Stroud, UK

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Confined table where cue sports are played

Larger tables may require multiple lights to properly illuminate the playing surface.

Billiard Table Manufactory, J. M. Brunswick & Bro., Proprietor, Cincinnati, Ohio 1865 ad

A pool table or pool table is a fenced table on which cue sports are played. In modern times, all pool tables (whether carom, billiards, pyramid, or snooker) feature a flat surface, usually made of mined slate covered with cloth (usually a tightly woven worsted wool called baize) and surrounded by vulcanized rubber cushions, where the whole is elevated above the ground.[1]: 115, 238 More specific terms are used for particular sports, such as; B. snooker table and billiard table, and on these types of tables different sized billiard balls are used. An obsolete term is billiard board, which was used in the 16th and 17th centuries.[1]:27[2]

Parts and equipment[ edit ]

pillow [ edit ]

Cushions (sometimes called “rail cushions”, “cushion rubber” or less commonly “shock absorbers”) are found on the insides of a table’s wooden rails. There are various materials and design philosophies associated with upholstery rubber. The cushions are made of an elastic material such as vulcanized rubber (rubber or synthetic). The purpose of the cushioning rubber is to allow the billiard balls to bounce off the rubber while minimizing the loss of kinetic energy.

The rail cushion profile, which is the angle of the cushion in relation to the table bed, varies between table types. The standard in American pool tables is the K-66 profile, which is defined by the Billiard Congress of America (BCA) as having a 1 + 3⁄16 inch (30 mm) base and a 1 inch (25 mm) nose height. .[3] When properly installed, the distance from the nose of the pad to the covered slate surface is 1+7⁄16 in. (37 mm)[4] using a specification 2+1⁄4 in. (57 mm) ball set.

On a billiard table, the K-55 profile is used (with a slightly more acute angle than pool cushions). K-55 cushions have cloth, usually canvas, vulcanized into the top of the rubber to adjust rebound accuracy and speed.

Snooker tables use an L-shaped profile, e.g. B. the L77 profile.

bed [ edit ]

The bed table – the fabric-covered, horizontal playing surface – is made of solid, smooth slabs of slate, mostly from Italy, Brazil or China, with high-quality equipment. Small billiard tables may only use one or two pieces of slate, while carom, English billiard and tournament size billiard tables use three. Full size snooker tables require five. The gap between the slabs of slate is filled with a hard setting putty, epoxy or resin, then sanded to create a seamless finish before covering it with the cloth. If multiple pieces of slate are poorly joined, the resin can warp and cause an uneven playing surface; It can also be difficult to move once connected.

Tables for the domestic market also typically use slate beds, but the slate is often thinner, up to about +1⁄2 inch (13 mm). The early table beds consisted of fabric-covered wooden boards. Today, inexpensive but not very rigid or durable materials used for the beds of simple tables (e.g. for children’s playrooms) still include wood, especially medium-density fiberboard and plywood, as well as plastics and other synthetic materials among various trade names .

fabric [ edit ]

Billiard cloth (sometimes incorrectly referred to as felt) is a specific type of cloth that covers the top of the “playing surface” of the table. Both the rails and slate beds are covered with 21-24 ounce billiard cloth (although some less expensive 19 oz cloths are available), most often green in color (representing the grass of the original lawn games from which billiards evolved). Has). and is made from either a woven wool or a wool-nylon blend called Baize.

Most standing tables that are used frequently use the slower, thicker blended felt because it’s cheaper. This type of fabric is called wool fabric. In contrast, quality pool cloth is usually made of a pileless fabric like worsted wool, which allows balls to roll much faster. This “speed” of the cloth affects ball avoidance and deflection, among other aspects of game finesse. Snooker towels traditionally have a directional hair on which the balls behave differently when rolling against or running with the direction of the hair.

Tags [ edit ]

Sights, also known as diamonds (because of their traditional shape), are inlaid at precise, evenly spaced locations along the rails of some tables (not typically snooker tables) to aid in aiming bank or kick shots. There are seven along each long rail (with the side pocket interfering with where the seventh would go, on pocket pool tables) and three along each short rail, with each of the four corners counting as a different one in the mathematical system that the diamonds are used for arithmetic used. These sight pieces divide the playing area into equal squares. Books, even entire book series, have been written on geometric and algebraic target systems using the diamonds.

Patches are often used to mark the top and bottom patches on the fabric. Other markings may be a line drawn across the headline (or across the beam line with the “D” in British pool). Another case is the outline of the triangle post behind the base where the balls are laid in a straight pool, as the outline of this area is strategically important throughout the game. Artistic pool allows lines to be drawn between opposing landmarks, forming a grid on the playing surface. Other grid patterns are used in various forms of balkline billiards. A more recent table-marking convention in European nineball is the breakbox.

Carom pool tables [ edit ]

Pocketless carom billiard tables are used for games such as straight rail, balcony, one-cushion billiards, three-cushion billiards, and artistic billiards.

Dimensions [ edit ]

Regular 10 × 5 foot carom billiard tables have a playing surface (measured between the lugs of the cushions) of 2.84 meters by 1.42 meters (9.32 × 4.65 ft) with a tolerance of 5 millimeters. The standard height range of the table, measured from the playing surface to the floor, is between 75 and 80 centimetres.

bed [ edit ]

The slate bed of a carom pool table must have a minimum thickness of 45 millimeters, and during tournaments the recommended heating temperature is 33–37 °C (91–99 °F), which keeps moisture out of the cloth to help the balls roll and Rebounds in a consistent manner and generally makes a table play faster. A heated table is required by international carom rules and is a particularly important requirement for the games of three-cushion billiards and artistic billiards.[1]: 115, 238

Heating table beds is an ancient practice. Queen Victoria had a pool table that was heated with zinc tubing, although the main aim at the time was to keep the ivory balls then used from warping. The first use of electric heating was in an 18.2 balcony tournament held in December 1927 between Welker Cochran and Jacob Schaefer Jr. The New York Times announced this with fanfare: “For the first time in the history of the World Balkline Billiards Championship, a heated table will be used…”[1]: 115, 238 [6]

Pool tables[ edit ]

Cue ball and the 1 ball near a WPA style pocket. (The balls are the same size; the cue ball looks big because and the 1 ball is near a WPA pocket. (The balls are the same size; the cue ball looks big because of the foreshortening.)

A pool table or pocket pool table has six pockets – one at each corner of the table (corner pockets) and one in the middle of each of the longer sides (side pockets or middle pockets).

Dimensions [ edit ]

A WEPF style pool table with a cue ball and red and yellow balls near the small, rounded, almost parallel-sided pocket.

Pool tables come in a variety of sizes, typically referred to as 9 ft (2.7 m), 8.5 ft (2.6 m), 8 ft (2.4 m), or 7 ft (2.1 m) tables . In all cases, the table is rectangular with a 2:1 ratio (e.g. 9 x 4.5 feet).

There are only two sizes authorized for tournament play by the pooling body recognized by the International Olympic Committee, the World Pool-Billiard Association (WPA) and its various regional and national affiliates. According to the pool rules standardized around the world, these are the 9 × 4.5 ft and 8 × 4 ft models. For a 9 foot table, the playing surface (the dimensions between the noses of the cushions) is 100 inches (254 cm) by 50 inches (127 cm) with a margin of error of +1⁄8 inch (3.2 mm). every dimension. For an 8-foot table, the playing surface is 92 inches (234 cm) by 46 inches (117 cm), with the same allowance of +1⁄8 inch.

In the UK, as well as a number of other British Commonwealth and European countries, the typical pool table is 2.13 m × 1.07 m (7 × 3.5 ft), although there are also 1.83 m (6 ft) tables for the Pub and home market have something in common. These are the sizes used by internationally standardized blackball and the amateur World Eightball Pool Federation, as well as informal pub pool. The 7-foot size is also commonly used in North American amateur leagues and is a common coin operated machine in bars and other venues. The playing surface for a 7 foot table is 76 inches (193 cm) by 38 inches (96.5 cm).

bags [ edit ]

Bags, which are usually lined with leather or plastic on the back, have traditionally had drop pockets, which are small receptacles under each pocket to hold the balls. More modern tables may instead use ball return pockets, a series of chutes inside the table that deliver the balls into a collection compartment on one side of the table, much like the ball return at a bowling alley. At a coin table, the object balls are deposited in an inaccessible window until the table is paid again, allowing the balls to be released into the compartment, while the game ball is usually separated into its own ball return, often using a different sized ball. A possible result of drop pockets is that if too many balls enter the same pocket, the container fills up and prevents more balls from entering that pocket, requiring some to be manually moved out of the pocket before shooting again.

Regardless of table size, the standard WPA table (sometimes informally referred to as “American style”) has wide, angular pockets that flare distinctly inward and are generally 1.75 to 2.25 times as wide at the opening the diameter of the 2 + 1⁄4- inch (57mm) balls, wider at the side (middle) pockets than at the corners. WEPF pool (sometimes colloquially called “British-style” or “Commonwealth-style”) is played with 2 to 2+1⁄8 inch (51-54mm) balls, and this style of table has smaller, narrow pockets ( width is calculated as ball diameter multiplied by 1.6 and is the same on all six pockets), with rounded entrances and nearly parallel sides, like a snooker table. A tactical consequence of this design difference is that the cheeks of the WPA pocket are often used just like a horizontal version of a basketball goal’s back wall to rebound the ball into the pocket. this technique doesn’t work on blackball tables, and even shots over the fence into a corner pocket are more difficult.

bed [ edit ]

For tournament competition under the worldwide standardized WPA rules (and league games under derived rule sets), the bed of the pocket pool table must be made of slate at least 1 inch (2.54 cm) thick. The flatness of the table must not vary by more than 0.02 inch (0.51 mm) in the longitudinal direction and 0.01 inch (0.25 mm) in the transverse direction.[7]

Snooker and English pool tables [ edit ]

Snooker table drawn to scale

A table designed for the games of snooker and billiards is usually referred to as a snooker table or a plane.

Dimensions [ edit ]

The playing surface of a tournament snooker table, as standardized by the World Professional Billiards and Snooker Association (WPBSA) and the Amateur International Billiards and Snooker Federation (IBSF), is 11 ft 8.5 in by 5 ft 10 in (3569 mm x 1778 mm) with a tolerance of ± 0.5 in (13 mm), [11] although commonly referred to as 12 ft x 6 ft, the nominal outside dimensions including the rails. Smaller tables, approximately 10 feet by 5 feet to half the size, are also sometimes used in pubs, apartments and smaller snooker halls. The height from the floor to the top of the pillow ranges from 2ft 9.5″ to 2ft 10.5″ (851mm and 876mm).[11]

bags [ edit ]

A pool table has six pockets, one on each corner and one in the middle of each of the longest side pads. Pockets are approximately 3.5 inches (86mm), [clarification needed], although high-level tournaments may use slightly smaller pockets to increase difficulty. The amount of undercut (trimmed underside of the protruding nose of the rubber pad at the pocket opening),[12]: 8, if present, has a strong impact on how easily a ball is received from the pocket (the “pocket speed”). On snooker and English pool tables, the pocket entries are rounded, while pool tables have sharp “knuckles”. This affects how accurate shots need to be to get into a pocket and how fast they can be if not accurate, including shots running along and against a cushion making snooker more difficult to play as billiards. According to the WPBSA Official Rules, “Bag openings must conform to templates owned and authorized by the World Professional Billiards and Snooker Association (WPBSA)”.[11] The equipment sections of the WPBSA and IBSF rulebooks do not actually specify the dimensions and shapes of these proprietary templates[10][11], which change from time to time, requiring the templates to be dated.[13] The organizations will not recognize tournament play or records (maximum breaks, etc.) unless they are conducted on tables that conform to then-current templates.[13][14]

pillow [ edit ]

The pads (sometimes referred to as rails, although that term actually applies to the sections of wood to which the pads are attached) are usually made of vulcanized rubber.

Tags [ edit ]

The beam area is marked by a bar line drawn on the cloth across the width of the table at a distance of 737 mm (29 in) from and parallel to the face of the bottom pad (mm) centered on that line within the bar forms the ‘D [11] in which the cue ball must be placed when it breaks or after the cue ball has been potted or shot off the table. The position of four of the colors is marked along the long cord (longitudinal center) of the table, perpendicular to the bar line: the black spot, 12.75 inches (324 mm) from the top pad; the middle point or blue point, which is midway between the bottom and top pillows; the pyramidal spot or pink spot, which is midway between the middle spot and the top pillow; and the bar spot, or brown spot, located at the midpoint of the bar line [11] (and thus the “D”). Because of its obviousness, the brown spot is not always marked (as are the distinctive green and yellow spots[11] at the left and right intersections, respectively, of the bar line and the curve of the “D”.[1] : 116, 278 [11] The exact placement of these marks will vary on smaller tables, but are proportional to the large model.

bed [ edit ]

The playing surface of a good quality snooker table has a bed of slate[15] and is covered with a traditional green cloth, although many other colors are now available. The thickness of this cloth determines the table’s speed (lack of friction) and responsiveness to spins, with thicker cloths lasting longer but being slower and less responsive. The pile of the cloth can affect the movement of the balls, especially on slower shots and shots played with sidespin on the cue ball. A snooker table traditionally has a pile running from the beam to the top and is brushed and ironed in that direction.

Tables for other games[edit]

Other types of billiard tables are used for specific games such as; B. the Russian pyramid, which uses a 12ft by 6ft table (similar to a snooker table but with much smaller pockets), and the Asian four-ball, which uses a pocketless 8ft by 4ft table. Games like Bagatelle often had more than six holes, including right through the bed in the middle of the table, a feature still found in bar billiards and bumper pool.

Novelty and home tables [ edit ]

There are novel billiard tables, often for billiards, that come in a variety of shapes including zig-zag, circular, and (particularly for bumper pool) hexagonal. A round table featured prominently in the 1972 film Silent Running. For the domestic market, many manufacturers have produced convertible pool tables (broadly speaking) that double as dining tables, or as ping pong, foosball, or air hockey tables with removable hard tops. [15] Home pool tables, which often lack a ball return system, are commonly either 4×8 foot or 3.5×7 foot models, a medium between 3×6 foot bar/pub tables and 4.5×9 foot tournament size. Low-end tables tend to be smaller in range and may have MDF or wooden beds as an alternative to slate; Those with light beds can be folded up for storage, like table tennis. Miniature tables range in size from 1×1.6 foot tabletops to freestanding 2.5×5 foot models and use downsized cues and balls.

Pool tables don’t require much maintenance once set up and leveled outside of the occasional cleaning, but you can’t skip changing the felt. The quality of your felt will affect how well the balls move across the table, so it’s important that your felt is in good condition.

How long does pool table felt last? How long the felt will last on your pool table depends on how often you play pool and how well you take care of the felt. In general, if you play billiards on a daily basis, you can expect the felt to last 3-5 years.

If you don’t play daily (or almost daily), your felt can last twice as long. In this article, we’ll go over what you can do to extend the life of your felt and how to know when it’s time to replace it.

How to extend the life of pool table felt

If your pool table gets a lot of use, that’s fantastic. It means you’re getting your money’s worth off the table. However, it also means that your felt will wear out faster. The interaction between the felt, balls, and chalk on a pool table eventually causes the felt to wear out.

Even if you play daily, you can breathe more life into your felt by taking good care of it. We’ve put together this list of best practices to help you keep your felt in good condition for longer.

Use a pool table cover when the table is not in use.

Brush the table regularly to keep it clean.

Consider using a vacuum with an upholstery brush to remove chalk from the table.

Do not allow any drinks or food on or near the table.

Don’t take scoop shots.

Do not allow pets on the table.

Don’t chalk across the table.

Keep your billiard balls clean.

Wipe the rails. Dirt on the rails can get onto the bed.

Remember that sunlight will fade the felt.

If you follow these guidelines, your pool felt will surely last longer than if you didn’t. On the other hand, most people want to change their felt color long before the felt wears out. If you like to change up your decor often, special care may not be as important to you.

We have some very helpful posts if you are looking to remove a stain from your pool table or remove the chalk.

When to change your pool table felt

Because felt wear is largely dependent on how often you use your pool table, it’s not easy to remember your next felt change. You need to keep an eye on your felt.

Signs your felt needs changing:

It looks like it needs to be replaced. If the felt looks like it needs replacing, it most certainly does.

It feels bristly.

It has become corrupted.

It bulges when you push in with your hand.

It shows any signs of looseness.

If your pool table felt is showing any of these signs, whether you like it or not, it’s time to have it replaced.

How much does it cost to replace pool table felt?

Replacing the felt on a pool table will definitely cost hundreds of dollars. Most replacements cost between $300 and $500 depending on the size of the table and the quality of the felt.

You can save some money by buying a piece of felt from Pooldawg and re-felting the table yourself, but it’s not recommended. Even a small mistake can result in an annoyingly imperfect playing surface. But if you’re familiar with DIY methods and have thoroughly researched the process, it’s possible and will save you a few hundred dollars.

Playing a good game of pool, whether with a friend or a stranger, is meant to be a pleasant and leisurely pastime. The game is a contest of skill between two opponents of equal caliber, and if not of equal caliber then at least on an equal field.

Like any other sport, take basketball or football for example, even if the talent is not the same, the playing field is the same. In basketball, no matter where the two teams play, the court is 94 feet long and 50 feet wide. In football, opposing teams know they are fighting on a field that is exactly 100 yards long and 53 1/3 yards wide. In any case, players know that they will be playing on a pitch or field without irregularities and without surprises. The same cannot always be said for the game of billiards.

When a pool table is not properly cared for, there can and will be many irregularities and surprises. These insecurities surely make for an annoying and frustrating game without any pleasure.

5 ways to test your pool table for damage

From time to time you may need to have the felt surface of your pool table repaired or replaced. While that’s true, you should almost never need to replace your table’s rail pads.

With proper use and care, a pool table’s rail pad rubber has a lifespan of 25-50 years. This lifespan will be greatly reduced if your table is used improperly, exposed to extremes of temperature or humidity, or stored improperly.

Extreme heat, cold or humidity can cause your table’s rail rubber to become brittle or very hard. Here are five tests you can run to determine if your pool table has suffered significant rail rubber damage:

Listen – Shoot a ball in each track. The ball should rebound at a moderate to high speed, but most importantly, you should be able to hear the exact same sound as you walk around the table. Squeeze – Using the pressure of your fingers, systematically walk around the table and squeeze the rail pads of your table. You should be able to squeeze the pillow a moderate distance between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch. Feel – Run your hands with your fingers around and under the table rails where the edges hang over the table’s playing surface. You feel for worn grooves and tracks under the felt. If you find any, it is an indication of worn cushions. This type of wear causes the rails to “bounce” less. Spin – Shoot a ball straight into each rail with high speed and moderate topspin. If the ball bounces more than 1 inch, the rail pads likely need to be replaced. Rebound – Slowly roll a ball up each rail and watch the reaction. If the ball comes to a standstill, your rails are worn and need to be replaced. If, on the other hand, the ball bounces back into the field, everything is fine. Also note the rebound angles. If the rebound matches the angle of incidence, you’re in good shape.

4 must-have pool table accessories for proper table maintenance

Pool Table Cover – Always cover your table after use, no exceptions. Horse Hair Brush – You might be tempted to buy a synthetic bristle brush, but horse hair is much softer and gentler on the table felt. Vacuum – Use a low-suction vacuum to remove dirt from the table surface. Soft towels – Dirty balls cause excessive wear on the playing surface. Use hot water and a soft towel to clean them every few games.

With these tips, you can enjoy your table for many years to come.

What you need to move a pool table yourself

Transporting a pool table alone across country is rarely a viable option, simply because long distances are not suitable for self-transportation in most cases. However, if you are planning to move your pool table across town or to another nearby city within the same state, then you will definitely be interested in knowing how to move a pool table yourself.

Don’t worry – billiard tables are designed to be disassembled for safe transport, so you won’t damage them if you follow our disassembly instructions carefully. Moving a pool table in one piece as is can only be done in some special cases (see below).

Before you decide to disassemble your pool table for moving, make sure you meet the following 3 essential requirements. Here’s what you need to disassemble and move a pool table:

muscular strength

One thing should be clear to you – you should not attempt to move your pool table without the invaluable help of at least 3 friends of yours, preferably 4 or even 5. Similar to pianos, pool tables are not only super heavy and bulky but also quite complex and fragile items , and one wrong step can damage your prized possessions forever. It is very important that you gather your cheerful team of reliable friends to help you carry out this tedious moving project. If you lack the muscular strength you need, then don’t hesitate to turn to experienced pool table moves.

tools and equipment

You will need the following tools and transportation equipment to disassemble, move, and set up a pool table: a staple remover (or needle-nosed pliers), a set of flathead screwdrivers, a socket wrench, a drill, level, safety glasses, resealable plastic bags, moving blankets (or thick regular blankets ), sheets of bubble wrap, masking tape.

time

With the help of the following step-by-step pool table moving guide and a group of trusted friends, it will take you at least 60 minutes to dismantle and pack your pool table for the move.

How to disassemble a pool table

If your table comes with specific dismantling instructions for transport, you should follow those. If you don’t, or you don’t keep the instruction manual or even find it difficult to understand, follow our detailed steps on how to disassemble a pool table for relocation.

Open the pockets

Start disassembling your pool table by first removing the six side pockets. Depending on the model, your ball pockets are either stapled in or attached with screws. Go under the table and remove the staples with the staple remover or remove the screws with the matching screwdriver to loosen the pockets. Be sure to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from flying fasteners.

Detach the rails

The rails are bolted so you’ll need your trusty socket wrench to loosen them. After removing all the screws from one section, with the help of your friends, gently slide the track out and carefully place it on a moving blanket to wrap it up safely. With some of the rail sections attached to the corners of the table, turn the rail over and detach each piece. Use resealable plastic bags to store the removed bolts, screws, nuts, and other small parts.

Remove the felt

You have 3 main options when it comes to removing the felt from your pool table – one of the trickiest and most time consuming steps when moving a pool table yourself.

Option 1: If the felt is already too worn and you want to replace it when you reassemble the pool table in your new location, you can simply tear it off. Obviously this is the easiest option you have.

Option 2: If the felt is stapled to the pool table and you wish to reuse it, use the staple remover and gently pry each staple from the table edges to release the cloth. When you are finished, carefully fold the felt to avoid permanently damaging the felt by causing lines (creases) in it.

Option 3: When the felt is stuck to the table and you want to use it again, very gently pull the cloth up in a gentle backward motion. Don’t pull it up or forward as this action will most likely stretch the cloth and ruin it. Be extra careful when removing the felt from the corners of the table as this can be particularly difficult. When you’re done, carefully fold the felt as above.

After the felt is removed from the table, you can see for yourself whether the slate is actually one giant piece, or whether it’s three separate pieces placed close together.

Take out the tablet(s).

Here comes the most dangerous step when moving your slate pool table. The slates bolt tightly to your pool table, so take your drill, equip it with a suitable screwdriver bit and loosen the slates one at a time. Keep the removed screws along with all other small dismantled elements. Next you need all the strength of you and your helpers to remove the slate or slates without doing any damage. If your table only has one panel, the latter can weigh up to 800 pounds, and if it has more than one (two or three), each individual piece will weigh between 150 and 250 pounds. So use extreme caution when lifting the slate off the frame of the pool table and laying it on the floor over a thick movable blanket to wrap it up securely.

There is one important thing to know beforehand when removing your pool table slates. Although the pieces are made of stone (hence their extreme weight), they are quite brittle and easily destroyed (chipped, scratched, or simply broken) if dropped. The bad news is that even if one slate does become damaged, you will have to replace them all simply because the slates are perfectly matched. And of course, buying brand new slates for your table will put even more strain on your budget. So if you don’t have enough helpers for this particular phase of your pool table endeavor or you are nervous when handling heavy but fragile pieces of stone, then getting professional help moving a pool table is a wise choice.

Remove the frame and legs

If you somehow managed to successfully complete the step above, removing the frame and legs of your pool table should be a piece of cake for you. With the help of your trusty friends, turn the remaining and much lighter structure upside down, removing each table leg as well as any parts of the frame that can be easily detached.

And you’re done! Congratulations on a job well done!

Our tips on how to move a pool table yourself continue with some practical advice on packing your pool table for the move.

How to pack a pool table for moving

How you pack your pool table for the move is critical to the overall success of the move, as some of the parts already disassembled can be easily damaged during transit if you don’t protect them well. And after you’ve gone to the trouble of taking your pool table apart, a shipping accident due to improper packaging would surely dampen your spirits and temporarily destroy your enthusiasm for billiards.

Here are a few packing and loading tips as you prepare to move your pool table to your new home.

Don’t skimp on the packaging material, as that could end up being too costly for you.

Use soft wrapping paper to wrap the bags, balls (unless you keep their original packaging), triangle and any other small pool accessories and place them in a sturdy cardboard box. Label the moving container accordingly.

Take advantage of the greatest protection that moving blankets offer. Use these blankets to wrap each individual slate, rail, leg, and frame member and tape the bundle in place with enough tape. You can also bundle your set of billiard cues and wrap them in a blanket or two, depending on the number and overall thickness.

With the exception of the heavy slabs of slate, loading the well-protected pool table pieces onto the moving truck should be fairly easy as long as you have enough helping hands. Again, be extremely careful when handling the slabs of slate – use an equipment cart to transport them to the moving vehicle, then roll them up the loading ramp to take them to the storage area. Once there, you can stack the slates on top of each other, but make sure they, like the rest of your pool table elements, are securely fastened and won’t move during the moving journey.

Be sure to keep all small items safe, preferably in resealable plastic bags.

According to Murphy’s Law, if even a tiny fastener is missing, you can’t find it at the local hardware store in your new town.

How to set up a pool table after moving

If your move to your new residence is a fact, it’s time to reassemble and properly align your pool table. Assembling the pool table will be a much more difficult challenge due to an additional task – leveling the table. Read on to find out what it takes to reset AND level the table at the same time.

Step 1: You brought your loyal friends, right? As with dismantling and transporting your pool table, you won’t be able to do it alone during this final phase of the move. If you’re on your own, ask professional pool table movers to shake hands with you.

Step 2: Turn the table frame over and replace the legs and any frame parts that were removed.

Step 3: Unfortunately, this time it’s not enough just to put the slates back in place – you need to level the slates and the entire pool table as well. Take out the spirit level and place it on the already positioned pieces of rock to test their horizontal alignment. Your pool table should be perfectly level, otherwise your game will be way off – check the center of the table as well as all of its sides. Keep in mind that the floor of your new home may not be perfectly level either, so you will likely need to adjust the height of each individual table leg as well. If the legs are adjustable, all you have to do is remove the pins or screws that hold each leg in place and move the leg up or down a little. If the legs are wood you will need special wood washers placed under each leg to adjust the height.

: Unfortunately, this time it’s not enough just to put the slates back in their right place – you have to level the slates and the entire pool table as well. Take out the spirit level and place it on the already positioned pieces of rock to test their horizontal alignment. Your pool table should be perfectly level, otherwise your game will be way off – check the center of the table as well as all of its sides. Keep in mind that the floor of your new home may not be perfectly level either, so you will likely need to adjust the height of each individual table leg as well. If the legs are adjustable, all you have to do is remove the pins or screws that hold each leg in place and move the leg up or down a little. If the legs are wood you will need special wood washers placed under each leg to adjust the height. Step 4: Once you’ve leveled your pool table, use the spirit level again to ensure the table is in tip-top shape for hours of entertainment.

Step 5: Next it’s time to add the felt. Much like leveling the table, the process of reinstalling the pool table felt can take a long time. You can use a rolling pin to smooth the cloth evenly, avoiding the formation of small air pockets, bumps or creases that can affect the trajectory of the balls later in billiards.

Do you need to re-felt a pool table after transport? Not necessarily. If you have managed to remove the felt without damaging it and then fold it correctly, transport it safely and assemble it without any problems, then there is nothing wrong with not reusing your old cloth. On the other hand, the recent move can be a good excuse to freshen up your pool table and buy a brand new felt for an improved pool experience.

Next come the splints – put them back in their original places, being careful not to crumple the perfectly laid felt in the process.

Finally, attach the side pockets again, done.

How to move a pool table a short distance

So far we’ve discussed how to dismantle your pool table to move it to a new home. But what if you only want to move your pool table a short distance within your own four walls? Then you certainly must have the know-how to move a pool table a few inches, move a pool table a few feet, move a pool table across the room, or move a pool table to another room within the home. And in particular, you will be very interested in learning how to move a pool table in one piece without taking it apart, right?

Here are some possible scenarios for moving pool tables short distances:

Scenario 1: Moving a pool table in the same room

Moving a pool table, for example to replace the carpet, can be a good reason to move your pool table without disassembling it. In this case you only have to move your pool table a few meters for the new carpet installation. Maybe your first thought is, “Hey, there are four of us – everyone grabs a side and lifts at the same time!” Never do it like that! Perhaps you are not fully aware of the risks involved in such hasty action. This is not the time to show your friends how your regular visits to the gym are paying off.

Instead, it’s best to purchase a set of special, heavy-duty furniture glides from the local moving company (there are glides that work best for hardwood surfaces and those designed for sliding heady items on carpet). Place a slider under each leg and slowly slide the pool table in the desired direction.

Scenario 2: Moving a pool table from one room to another adjacent room

You can try using the above method provided the target room is either an adjacent room or one on the same floor. Before you even think about it, plan your moving route well and measure the doorways or hallways to make sure the table can be squeezed in. If you only need a few inches of extra space in the doorways, consider temporarily removing the door frames. If that doesn’t help either, your only options are either dismantling your billiard table or calling in the professionals who will surely find an adequate solution to your problem.

Scenario 3: Moving a pool table to another room on another floor

Moving a three piece slate pool table to another room on another floor without first disassembling it is something you should never attempt. Transporting a pool table down to a basement? Moving a pool table upstairs to an attic? Ditch those crazy ideas and either follow the steps above to properly disassemble your pool table or contact professional table pool movers who will save you a great deal of time, a headache, or possible self-harm.

Why having your own pool table can be a bad idea

Let’s be honest from the start – moving a pool table is a tricky business. Behind every table bag lurks numerous dangers to you (failure to follow safety instructions could result in possible injury due to the exceptional weight of your entertainment hub) and your pool table (failure to follow disassembly steps could damage your table). and make it unplayable).

Before you decide to transport your pool table yourself, either to your new home or close to your current home, you need to be aware of the dangers and risks that such a decision entails.

Increased risk of self-harm

As discussed in detail above, each individual slate of a multi-slate pool table weighs between 150 lbs and 250 lbs, while the slate of a single slate table can weigh as much as 800 lbs. This basically means that one wrong move could land you straight in the hospital. In addition, you should also think about the safety of your helpers and what would happen if one of your good friends is accidentally injured.

Possible damage to the pool table

Ruining your table felt may be the least of your worries. A scratched, cracked or simply broken slab of slab will cost you dearly as you will be forced to replace the entire set of slabs of rock. A damaged rail can also affect your game, as can a misaligned pool table after moving. A good idea is to hire professionals to take care of the assembly and especially the leveling.

Just like moving a piano, moving a pool table is best left to professional movers who know exactly what they are doing and most importantly know how to do it. Yes, you will be charged for hiring dedicated pool table movers to take care of your prized pool table, but it’s also true that a broken table top or an unexpected medical bill can prove more expensive in the end.

Complete our Quick Relocation Quote to receive a pool table relocation quote from experienced professional movers, giving your prized pool table the kind of treatment it deserves.

Bonus: The rules of pool etiquette

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