Pool Test Strips Color Chart? Top Answer Update

Frequently asked questions and answers about swimming pools

by Rachelle Lynn

Online Marketing Manager for PoolGearPlus.com

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Why is the water in my pool cloudy/smoky/cloudy?

There are several possible causes of cloudy, smoky, or cloudy pool water. Here are some of them, along with the solutions:

Poor circulation or filtration: Backwash and clean pool filters. Clean the skimmer baskets and pump strainer basket. The filter may need to be chemically cleaned.

Backwash and clean the pool filter. Clean the skimmer baskets and pump strainer basket. The filter may need to be chemically cleaned. Improper water balance: Test pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness and make adjustments as necessary.

Test pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness and make adjustments as necessary. High Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) and/or Calcium Hardness: If either or both are high (TDS over 3,000 ppm or Calcium Hardness over 400 ppm), drain 1/3 to 1/2 of your pool water and replace with fresh water with low hardness. Adjust the chemical balance.

If either or both are high (TDS over 3,000ppm or calcium hardness over 400ppm), drain 1/3 to 1/2 of your pool water and replace with fresh, low hardness water. Adjust the chemical balance. Excess Organic Waste: Shock with one pound of Pool Super Shock for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.

Poke with one pound of Pool Supershock per 10,000 gallons of pool water. High Total Alkalinity: Add a pH reducer.

Add a pH reducer. Low level of disinfectant: add chlorine to get the disinfectant in the right area.

Why is my pool water green?

Troubleshooting pool problems can be a challenge, especially when you just want to fix the problem so you and your family can enjoy your pool! Here are some frequently asked questions and answers about swimming pools.

Your swimming pool suffers from green algae growth. A common species of free-swimming algae gives pool water a cloudy green color. It is easy to correct if treated early. Shock your pool, then use the correct dose of algaecide for the size of your pool.

Your pool may also have low total alkalinity, which can contribute to the growth of green algae. As such, you may need to add an alkalinity enhancer as well.

How do I get rid of the yellow dust on my pool floor and walls?

Yellow (or sometimes green) dust on the bottom and walls of your pool is mustard algae. Apply the right dose of Pool Shock and then use an algaecide specifically formulated to stop mustard algae from growing.

What are the black spots on my pool floor and walls?

Black spots on the bottom and walls of your pool indicate black algae, which unfortunately is very difficult to kill. Black algae typically appear as small black dots or spots that are the size of a pinhead to one-quarter the size. It has a tough outer coating and is very resistant to handling, especially if it gets into the pool’s crevices. To treat black algae, you need an algaecide specifically designed to kill it. Even the most serious problems can be eliminated faster when you use a metal killer in conjunction with black algaecide. After applying the chemicals, brush the areas of your pool with black algae growth to allow the chemicals to penetrate the stain’s outer coating. There is pink slime in my pool. What is it and how do I get rid of it? Pink slime is a form of bacteria with a pink center. It is usually introduced into pools by swimmers who have recently visited coastal areas where this type of growth is common. To treat pink slime, double shock the pool with two pounds of shock per 10,000 gallons of pool water. Use an all-in-one algaecide at 6 ounces per 10,000 gallons 48 hours after shocking the pool. My pool water burns my eyes / is sudsy / is salty. Help! Water burns your eyes: Your pH may be too low or too high. Use a water test kit to determine the pH and adjust it to a range of 7.4 to 7.6. Another point to check is whether or not there is too much sanitizer in your pool. Check the automatic chlorinator setting.

. Use a water test kit to determine the pH and adjust it to a range of 7.4 to 7.6. Another point to check is whether or not it is present in your pool. Check the automatic chlorinator setting. Water is sudsy: Pool water can become sudsy from overuse of algaecide. Some types of algaecides can cause water to foam if used liberally. To fix the problem, stop using your current algaecide and switch to a quality, non-lathering brand. You can also replace some of the pool water with fresh water. Products to help stop foam are available from pool suppliers.

. Some types of algaecides can cause water to foam if used liberally. To fix the problem, stop using your current algaecide and switch to a quality, non-lathering brand. You can also replace some of the pool water with fresh water. Products to help stop foam are available from pool suppliers. Water is salty: This is often caused by high Total Dissolved Solids (TDS). TDS is high when it measures over 3,000ppm. To fix the problem, drain half of the water from the pool and replace it with fresh water. How do I troubleshoot issues indicated by my chlorine/pH test results? If your chlorine test turns orange, your pool water has a very high chlorine level of over 4ppm. Stop using chlorine until the chlorine test shows a result within the normal range. If you want faster results, use a chlorine neutralizer to get the chlorine back in the right range. If your pH:

The test result looks purple or blue: This indicates that your pool water has a very high level of chlorine. Discontinue use of chlorine until chlorine levels return to normal, or use a chlorine neutralizer.

. Discontinue use of chlorine until chlorine levels return to normal, or use a chlorine neutralizer. Always Tests Too High: Repeated test results that indicate the pH in your pool water is high indicate high total alkalinity. Add a pH reducer to balance total alkalinity.

. Add a pH reducer to balance total alkalinity. Always tests too low: This means the total alkalinity is too low. Add an alkalinity booster. If you use trichlor or other low pH sanitizers, you may need to use a pH booster. To learn more about taking care of your pool, read Pool Maintenance: How to Clean Your Swimming Pool.

Reprinted with permission

Rachaelle Lynn Rachaelle Lynn is the Online Marketing Manager for PoolGearPlus.com, the #1 web site for cheap pool supplies, pool chemicals, chlorine tablets, pool toys, pool filters, pool pumps, automatic pool cleaners, pool heaters and more -inground pools, pool cleaning supplies and all other pool accessories.

Instead of adding chlorine to sanitize a saltwater pool, you add salt and a chlorine generator then converts it to chlorine. When the free chlorine levels are low, it usually means it’s time to add more salt, but it can mean a few other things as well. For example, low chlorine readings may indicate that you need to increase the chlorinator output or run it more frequently. Persistently low readings when the salinity and chlorinator run time are reasonable could mean that the pump is not circulating the water properly, or that the generator cells are calcified or simply worn out. You can eliminate adverse effects of low chlorine — including chlorine odor, cloudy water, and algae growth — by shocking the pool.

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Optimal salt concentration

Whether your chlorinator is designed to automatically dispense salt or you add the salt to the pool yourself, it is important to keep the salt concentration within the manufacturer’s recommended range. This can be anywhere from 2,700 to 4,500 parts per million, but 3,200 ppm is ideal for most chlorinators. Most chlorine generators have a salt sensor and will warn you when the salt concentration is too low. However, this sensor can fail for a number of reasons, so it’s best to test the salt concentration in the water yourself when checking other chemical levels.

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Run the circulation pump when adding salt directly to the pool to ensure it is fully distributed. It helps to stir the water manually and brush salt off the bottom if it settles there.

Maintain healthy pool chemistry

If you test the salt concentration in the pool – which should be at least once a week – you should also test the pH level. If it’s above the ideal 7.2 to 7.8 range, the chlorine level is likely to stay low even if the chlorinator is working overtime. The effectiveness of chlorine decreases dramatically with increasing pH. This is because the disinfecting compound hypochlorous acid (HOCl) quickly dissociates in alkaline water. If the pH is above 7.8, lower it with hydrochloric acid or sodium bisulfate (dry acid).

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Total alkalinity is a measure of the water’s ability to maintain a stable pH, and if it’s too high, the pH is likely to rise. The ideal TA level is between 60 and 120ppm – if it’s higher, lower it with the same chemicals you use to lower the pH.

It’s also important to keep cyanuric acid levels in an outdoor saltwater pool between 70 and 80 ppm, which is higher than recommended for a traditional outdoor pool. Cyanuric acid isn’t as important for indoor pools as it is a stabilizer that protects chlorine from the corrosive effects of direct sunlight. A value between zero and 20 ppm is recommended indoors.

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Limescale deposits can cause blockages

In a saltwater pool, it is particularly important to keep the calcium hardness level at an acceptable level, as calcium deposits can clog the chlorine cells in the generator. In this case, the chlorine level will drop even though you are maintaining a good chemical balance in the pool. The chlorinator also works harder and will wear out much sooner.

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When a test shows calcium hardness above 400ppm, it’s time to take action. You could drain some water from the pool and replace it with fresh water, but if your water comes from a well, it’s probably hard too. If this is the case, a better strategy is to add a flocculant to the water to precipitate the calcium compounds out of the water. Once you have vacuumed the sediment from the bottom of the pool, backwash the pool filter and then remove the cells from the chlorinator and clean them with water or, if heavily scaled, with a vinegar/water solution.

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Shocking a saltwater pool

Most chlorinators have a super chlorinating setting, but using this setting doesn’t add chlorine fast enough to kill algae or clean severely cloudy water, and it’s no substitute for shocking the pool. To shock the pool effectively, you need to quickly increase the free chlorine concentration to 10ppm or more, and you do it the same way you would in a traditional pool — by adding chlorine. You can use calcium hypochlorite, sodium hypochlorite, or chlorine tablets. Because they contain a stabilizer, chlorine tablets are a good alternative if the cyanuric acid concentration in your outdoor pool is too low. If the cyanuric acid concentration is already where it should be, then use pool chlorine, household bleach, or a commercial shock agent.

Note: A newer, more up-to-date version of this article can be found here.

This video from Leslie’s Swimming Pool Supplies shows you how to use pool test strips accurately.

For best results, run your pool pump for at least an hour before testing your water

Dip the test strip in the water for a few seconds and then wait 10-20 seconds for the strip to change color

Compare the test strip with the color chart on the packaging

Electronic pool testers read the colors for you.

Store your test materials in a cool, dry place and pay attention to the expiration date

Video Transcription:

Hi I’m Peter with Leslie’s pool supplies and this video will show you how to use water test strips. Testing your water regularly is the best way to keep your pool clean, safe and ready for use.

During the bathing season, we recommend that you test your water at least 2 times a week. Pool water test strips are the easiest way to check your water chemistry. They are easy to use and provide fast, accurate results.

While testers measure a variety of things, you want to focus on pH, alkalinity, and disinfectants like chlorine and bromine. For best results, make sure your pump has been running for at least an hour before testing.

Dip the test strip in the water for a few seconds and then wait 10 to 20 seconds for the strip to change color.

Compare the test strip with the color chart on the packaging. Be careful not to wait too long as this can cause the colors to keep changing and give you an inaccurate reading. See the packaging for specific instructions.

Occasionally, colors on the test strips can be difficult to distinguish. Using a meter like the Aqua Check True Test Digital Meter eliminates this problem and reads the colors for you. The meter also tracks your readings so you can see trends in your water.

The water test should be completed before adding any chemicals to your pool. Pool chemicals can also take up to a day to take full effect.

When you are not using the test strips, store them in a cool, dry place and pay close attention to the product’s expiration date. In addition to testing your water at home, you can bring a sample to one of our stores every two weeks for a free test and analysis.

If you have questions about testing your water, visit lesliespool.com

What does chlorine do?

Chlorine is added to the water to kill germs. But it doesn’t work right away. When used correctly, free chlorine* can kill most germs within minutes. CDC recommends a pH of 7.2-7.8 and a free chlorine concentration of at least 1 ppm in pools and at least 3 ppm in hot tubs/spas.

When using cyanuric acid, a chlorine stabilizer, or chlorine products containing cyanuric acid (eg, products commonly known as dichlorine or trichlorine [see product label]), CDC recommends a pH of 7.2-7.8 and freely available Chlorine concentration of at least 2 ppm in pools. CDC does not recommend the use of cyanuric acid or chlorine products containing cyanuric acid in hot tubs/spas.

*Disposable chlorine is the more active form of chlorine that kills germs.

Correct chlorine level for a healthy pool

Keeping the water clean, pathogen free and hygienic is key to getting the most out of your pool. But this endeavor isn’t as easy as throwing in some pool chemicals and calling it a day. Adding the right amount of chlorine is sometimes a difficult balancing act, but it’s absolutely necessary to maintain a healthy pool.

First of all, if a lot of organic matter has built up in the pool, normal doses of chlorine will not solve the problem. You must shock the water, which means adding large amounts of chlorine for a short period of time to completely destroy all bacteria and organic matter in the pool. If it has been a while since the pool has been shocked or it has just been filled, shock it first so the chlorine can do its job. Remember that you should wait at least 8 hours before entering the pool after using a chlorine-based shock. To maintain a good and healthy pool, pool owners should shock their pool every 1-2 weeks.

Next, the pH of the water must be measured. If the pH is too high, even the right level of chlorine will not be enough to ensure the water is safe for swimming. Chlorine loses its effectiveness in acidic water. Aim for a pH level that matches that of human tears — around 7.2, but as high as 7.6. If the pH is too high, it’s time to add some muriatic acid to the deep end of the tank while the pump is running. This gets the connection circulating quickly, and you can test it again in about six hours. Don’t try to lower the level too quickly or the levels will fluctuate and frustrate you.

Now that the water is ready, start adding the chlorine. Pool chlorine is sold as tablets or sticks that can be placed in floating or automatic feeders. Try to avoid ones that water needs to run over to dissolve as you will be tempted to put it in the skimmer basket. This introduces very low pH water into your pumping system and can cause it to fail prematurely.

Also, avoid tablets that crumble and fall apart. Good quality tablets dissolve at a more or less even rate and will simply get smaller over time while retaining their shape. This is particularly important if a floating chlorine generator is to be used.

Automatic chlorine dispensers are very popular with pool owners because they are easy to use and help in the proper maintenance of a pool. Chemical dispensers automatically dispense accurate amounts into the pool, allowing the pool owner precise control over the amounts poured into the pool.

Regardless of how often or what system you use to add chlorine to the water, the chlorine level should remain between 1.0 and 3.0 parts per million (ppm) to maintain a healthy pool. Anything higher puts you at risk of red eyes and itching in the swimmer. Even at the highest level, there should be at most a slight smell of chlorine. If there is a strong odor, it’s a sign that you need to shock the pool and remove accumulated debris.

Calculating the amount of chlorine to use requires some math but isn’t overly complicated. The hardest part is determining the total gallons in the pool. Luckily, many pool supply suppliers provide online calculators, such as: B. the one at http://www.havuz.org/pool-calculators.htm.

Once you know the total volume, it’s a simple formula: One ounce of chlorine yields 1 ppm in 75,000 gallons of water, or 0.013 ounces of chlorine per 100 gallons.

But what matters most is consistency. Be sure to check the pH every two to three days, as pH affects how well the chlorine disinfects the pool. And remember, chlorine is neutralized as it interacts with contaminants and through exposure to sunlight. If proper chlorine levels are not being maintained with a floating unit that uses 1″ tablets, you may need to use 3″ tablets or adjust the chlorine flow if you have an automatic system. Be consistent when testing pool water and any changes can be quickly caught and corrected.

Read on: Protect your family from chlorine in bath and shower water

One of the most common problems is when a pool’s pH level gets too high. pH is a measure of water’s balance between acidity and alkalinity. If the pH is not properly balanced, problems can arise. The pH of water ranges from 1 to 14. Lower numbers are more acidic and higher numbers are more alkaline. Proper pool pH is somewhere in the middle – pool professionals recommend a pH between 7.3 and 7.6 for optimal performance and the cleanest water.

The short, short version

Test strips can be used to test total alkalinity. Total alkalinity is increased by adding stabilizer, soda ash, or baking soda. Total alkalinity is lowered by lowering pH and aerating your pool.

How to test swimming pool alkalinity

It is important to test and maintain total alkalinity. However, total alkalinity is broadly similar and even correlates with cyanuric acid. Therefore it is not as volatile as free chlorine or pH levels and does not require as frequent testing. A reliable rule of thumb is to test total alkalinity every time you test pH. This should work about once a week.

Test strips are the easiest way to test total alkalinity. To perform a test, follow the instructions that come with the test strips. Typically, you dip a test strip into your pool water for a few seconds. Then hold the test strip still while the reagents on the strip react with the pool water. Finally, compare the color of the total alkalinity test with the color scale on the test strip vial. It’s unusual for your test color to exactly match one of the benchmark colors on the color chart. Use your best judgment to determine the exact value of your total alkalinity test result.

Test kits are another way to test for total alkalinity. Test kits are very similar to test strips, except you need to collect a small sample of pool water in a test tube and add several drops of reagent to the water. After the reagent has fully reacted with the water, compare the color of the test water to a color chart included in the test kit.

Test kits are more accurate than test strips. The level of accuracy can be important for free chlorine and pH testing. However, the accuracy of the test strips should be sufficient for total alkalinity testing.

How to increase pool alkalinity

It should come as no surprise that the way to increase total alkalinity is to add alkaline materials to your pool water. There are three chemicals you can add to increase total alkalinity. Which chemical you add depends on your cyanuric acid and pH levels.

If your cyanuric acid levels are also low, it’s best to add stabilizer. This increases both your total alkalinity and cyanuric acid. If your pH is low, it’s best to add soda ash. This increases both pH and total alkalinity. If your pH and cyanuric acid levels are within the recommended ranges, it’s best to add baking soda to increase total alkalinity. Baking soda is the best way to increase total alkalinity with minimal impact on pH and cyanuric acid.

How to lower the alkalinity of the pool

High alkalinity means your pool water is buffering too much, potentially diluting the effectiveness of chlorine to the point where it can no longer sanitize some contaminants in your pool or hot tub. Reducing total alkalinity is a two-step process.

The first step is to lower the pH by adding hydrochloric acid. Lowering the pH makes your pool water more acidic and neutralizes the alkaline materials in your pool. You should aim to lower your pH to a range of 7.0 to 7.2. The second step is to aerate your pool or hot tub to break up the remaining alkaline materials. This can be accomplished by running your pool to increase circulation or running your hot tub jets. Water features or temporary fountains can also be used for ventilation.

Once the total alkalinity has been brought back to the desired range, you will need to raise the pH back up to the recommended range of 7.4-7.6. Reducing the pH to 7.0 to 7.2 increases the effectiveness of free chlorine. So you probably don’t need to add a stabilizer to increase the cyanuric acid. Soda ash can be used to raise the pH of your pool, but it also increases total alkalinity.

Unless you corrected and lowered the total alkalinity too much, you probably don’t want to increase the alkalinity. Borax increases the pH of your pool without affecting total alkalinity. Therefore, borax is probably your best bet for raising pH in this situation.

Any pool owner will likely agree that installing a swimming pool can help improve the quality of your health and lifestyle. To continue using and getting the most out of your pool, clean and safe water is essential. Keeping the water sparkling is as simple as regular maintenance, monitoring and the occasional shake.

In this article, we’ll take a closer look at pool shock, including how often to shock your pool, the best day, and when. First, let’s take a look at some of the telltale signs that your pool needs shocking.

How often should I shock my pool?

Shocking your pool regularly will help keep the water clean and contaminant-free. You should aim to shock your pool about once a week, with the added shock after heavy use. Some telltale signs your pool needs shocking are cloudy, foamy, green, or smelly water.

What’s the best time of day to shock?

The best time of day to shock your pool is in the evening. This is because the sun’s rays can reduce the effectiveness of the chlorine by dissolving it too quickly before it has a chance to rid the pool of impurities and clean the water. The evening is also a great time to shock your pool as it shouldn’t be used for the next 12 to 24 hours so you can shock it after a day of fun in the water.

When to shock your pool

You should shock your swimming pool once a week to keep the water clean and safe. In addition to regular maintenance, it should also be shocked at other times, including:

opening

While your pool has been closed for the cooler months, bacteria and algae can build up. If you open your pool in late spring, shocking the water can help rid it of contaminants.

After heavy use

Entertaining guests or throwing a pool party? The more swimmers and heavier traffic, the more likely it is that bacteria and other contaminants like shampoo, soap and oils will get into the water. This can cause chlorine levels to drop, increasing the need for a pool shock.

After hot days

During prolonged hot spells, the temperature in your pool can rise, leading to bacterial growth and a decrease in the strength of your chlorine. After a long period of hot, sunny weather, be sure to shock your pool.

After heavy rain

When it rains heavily, pollutants often get into the pool, which can lead to an increase in the pH value.

Strong chlorine small or irritated eyes

You might think that the smell of chlorine would mean the pool is clean and the water safe to use, but it’s actually a clear sign that chloramines, or combined chlorine, have built up in the water. Another sign of this is red and irritated eyes when swimming.

Conclude

Make opening your pool a little easier at the start of the next season by shocking your pool before closing it. This is also a great opportunity to give your pool a full cleaning and inspection. Tools to help you with this include pool cleaners, water care chemicals, a skimmer and a test kit.

Sundance Spas of Edmonton

Visit our blog and online resource center today for more information on owning and caring for your pool. At Sundance Spas in Edmonton, we are committed to helping you make the most of your home and garden. Visit our showroom for some of the best pool and hot tub prices along with an incredible selection of pools, new hot tubs, used hot tubs and accessories such as pool and hot tub covers.

Chlorine is a standard chemical element that is widely used to provide clean drinking water to people around the world. The reason chlorine is highly effective and important for monitoring water quality is because it can kill bacteria through a chemical reaction. Whether you treat your pool or work at a water treatment facility, using the right amount of chlorine can keep the water free of contaminants.

When chlorine is added directly to pool water, it breaks down into chemicals such as hypochlorite ion and hypochlorous acid, both of which are effective in killing bacteria and various microorganisms. You should know the difference between free chlorine and total chlorine as each type of chlorine acts differently in the water. Properly determining the levels of free chlorine and total chlorine in the water is important if you want to determine the effectiveness of your sanitation efforts.

Since chlorine can kill bacteria and similar microorganisms, it is mainly used as a disinfectant in swimming pools and for drinking water treatment. Chlorine can also be used to manufacture consumer goods such as textiles and paint. The vast majority of pharmaceuticals will use chlorine in the manufacture of new drugs.

Due to the many uses of chlorine, it is important that you understand how chlorine works and the difference between free and total chlorine, both of which are explained in more detail below.

What is chlorine and why should you care?

Chlorine is a chemical element that is used as an ingredient in a variety of different types of products. Because of chlorine’s disinfecting and bleaching properties, it is used as an ingredient in many cleaning products. Chlorine is also used in the manufacture of a wide range of basic consumer goods, including everything from paints and papers to textiles. This chemical is also needed in the manufacture of PVC, a type of plastic that can be the main material for water pipes, vinyl flooring, and window frames.

Why is chlorine effective?

The reason chlorine is effective when used for cleaning purposes is because the element is broken down into smaller chemicals like hypochlorite ion and hypochlorous acid, which can kill bacteria and microorganisms in the water. When chlorine is combined with chemicals like ammonia, the bacteria you are trying to get rid of are oxidized, rendering them harmless. If you have a swimming pool that you want to keep clean, it’s important to understand how chlorine works to ensure you’re always using the right amount. This is a strong chemical, meaning your skin can become itchy if you swim in a pool with a lot of chlorine in it.

Benefits of Chlorine

Chlorine has some notable advantages compared to other cleaning solutions, the main reason being that it is very powerful and highly effective at removing contaminants in water.

While some cleaning solutions can be expensive, chlorine is relatively inexpensive, making it easy to customize to your needs.

Chlorine is also easy to use and not as harmful as some other cleaning solutions.

Chlorine offers long-lasting protection against recontamination, which is not always possible with other cleaning solutions.

The only problems with using chlorine for disinfection purposes are less effectiveness in cloudy water and a strong odor.

Understand the 3 types of chlorine

There are three types of chlorine to be aware of including free chlorine, combined chlorine and total chlorine. Free chlorine refers to the amount of chlorine that can disinfect pollutants, while combined chlorine refers to chlorine that has directly combined with the pollutants. Total chlorine is basically the sum of free chlorine and combined chlorine.

The formula of chlorine is free chlorine + combined chlorine = total chlorine.

Free chlorine

Free chlorine refers to the amount of chlorine that has yet to combine with chlorinated water to effectively disinfect contaminants, meaning this chlorine is free to eliminate harmful microorganisms in your pool water.

This specific type of chlorine is very important for monitoring purposes as it is necessary if you want to sanitize your pool. If you don’t have enough free chlorine in the water, you won’t be able to get rid of bacteria and other contaminants that have built up.

When measuring the amount of free chlorine in your pool, make sure the readings are between 2 and 4 PPM. This form of chlorine is very different from other types of chlorine as it has not yet been used and is therefore available for disinfection purposes. However, it is also important to understand the other two types of chlorine to better understand how to maintain the right chemical balance in your swimming pool water or wastewater treatment plant.

Combined Chlorine

Combined chlorine is a type of chlorine that evolves while your pool is being sanitized.

During this process, the chlorine binds to any impurities in the water, creating combined chlorine. When you measure the water in your pool, the amount of combined chlorine in the water should be less than 0.5 PPM. If the numbers are higher, the pool may need to be shocked to get rid of the odor that accompanies high levels of combined chlorine.

If you have combined chlorine in your pool water, it means that the free chlorine is currently breaking down some contaminants in the water. A clean and fully sanitized pool has a combined chlorine level of zero. If you always have the right amount of free chlorine in your pool, you should rarely have combined chlorine in the pool water.

total chlorine

Total chlorine is the sum of combined chlorine and free chlorine, which can be measured for a variety of reasons.

True chlorine is very easy to test in water compared to free or combined chlorine, which is why many of the less expensive chlorine measurement tests specifically test for total chlorine. In clean water, the amount of total chlorine can be used to determine the amount of free chlorine in the water since combined chlorine should be zero.

However, if there is some combined chlorine in the water in addition to free chlorine, measuring total chlorine is practically useless. Because this measurement doesn’t show the different amounts of free chlorine and combined chlorine, it won’t tell you much. While it can be cheaper to measure total chlorine, it is not nearly as effective, so you should strongly consider purchasing sensors that measure both free chlorine and total chlorine.

How to test your pool for free, combined and total chlorine

Measuring the amount of chlorine in your pool is essential if you want to keep your pool water clean and sanitized. Maintaining the correct chlorine level in your pool also keeps the water clear and sparkling. Although it is recommended that you test your pool water every day, if you only test the water every other day your pool should be fine. Testing pool water is especially important if your pool is left uncovered, exposing it to sunlight, rain, leaves, and wind.

There are three methods you can use to test free, combined and total chlorine in your pool including chlorine test strips, chlorine test kits and an electronic/digital chlorine meter. Chlorine test strips are made of plastic with a chemical pad attached to a stick. The chemical pad can react with the water and change color to give you a rough estimate of how much Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine and Total Chlorine is present in your pool.

If you look specifically at chlorine testing kits, they come in many different shapes and sizes, with the core similarity being that they all use the same titration process to test the water for chlorine. When you use one of these test kits, you need to add a few drops of some kind of reagent to a water sample to measure the amount of chlorine it contains. The water will change color, which you can compare to the color patch available on your test kit instructions for use. The most accurate way to test the amount of chlorine in the water is to use an electronic/digital chlorine tester, which gives accurate readings without having to compare colors.

Sensorex products

Here at Sensorex we offer a wide range of accurate and durable sensors to help you test the chemistry of your pool water. Whilst test kits can be accurate for some simple applications it is highly recommended that you use our FCL Amperometric Free Chlorine Sensor which can provide you with a direct measurement of Free Chlorine listed in parts per million. The technology in this sensor should always provide you with accurate results that you can use to determine if your pool is clean or needs to be shocked.

Whether you need a free chlorine sensor to determine the level of chlorine in your pool water or to ensure your sanitizer is working properly in a cooling tower, FCL’s amperometric sensor should provide what you are looking for.

Pool chemical monitoring systems

There are a variety of pool monitoring systems that you can use to ensure that the water in your pool is free of contaminants. It is important to monitor the water quality in your pool as the build up of contaminants can lead to the development of harmful algae that can make the pool unsafe to swim in.

Some of the key systems you can use to monitor your pool include:

Automatic pool chemical monitoring systems

Smart pool monitors with wireless functionality

DIY monitoring with an electronic meter

DIY monitoring using standard pool test kits

Here at Sensorex we can supply you with the sensors and testing equipment you need to continuously monitor the quality of your pool water. Contact us today if you need help figuring out which products are right for you.

Chlorine is a popular sanitizer used in pools and hot tubs to kill germs. Adequate levels of chlorine are important as it protects you and other bathers from dangerous germs that thrive in hot water. However, high levels of chlorine can irritate your skin, eyes, and lungs, so don’t overdo it.[1] If you think your hot tub has too much chlorine, you should test it first to be sure. If the chlorine level is too high, you can either wait and let the chlorine work itself off naturally, or replace some of the water in your spa with fresh water. You can also use a chlorine neutralizer to quickly remove excess chlorine.

The addition of chlorine is an important maintenance consideration for both above and below ground pool ownership. At times, chlorine levels can become higher than recommended levels, resulting in a less than desirable swimming experience. In the event that your pool has too high a chlorine level, here are some guidelines on how to reduce the chlorine level in your pool.

Proper chlorine levels can vary depending on a few factors, so it’s best to consult your local pool expert to maintain a healthy pool. They can also advise you on the best way to measure the chlorine level in your pool. Some signs of high chlorine levels may include burning in the eyes, nose and throat, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, lung irritation or a skin rash. After testing the water and finding that the chlorine level is too high, here are some suggestions on what you can do to bring it back down.

Let’s also dispel a few myths…

MYTH #1 Red eyes are caused by too much chlorine. Not true. Typically, red eyes are due to your pH being too high or too low. Test your water and make sure your pH is between 7.2 and 7.6.

MYTH #2 A strong chlorine smell means you have too much chlorine in your pool water. Not true. A strong chlorine smell actually comes from chloramines. That means your chlorine is working hard to disinfect contaminants in your pool water.

Ok, now let’s look at 4 different methods you can use to lower your chlorine levels.

1. Stop adding chlorine

The easiest step to reducing chlorine levels is to stop adding chlorine to the pool. Whether you have a chlorinator, chlorine feeder, or saltwater chlorine generator, turn them off. If you put chlorine sticks in your skimmer, remove the sticks or reduce the amount of sticks you use. This quick step will likely bring chlorine levels back to normal. This method is particularly effective if your chlorine levels are only slightly above normal.

2. Remove the pool cover

Another method to lower the chlorine level in your pool is to remove the pool cover. If you have one, open it up and let the sun shine. Sunlight is known to lower chlorine levels in relatively short periods of time. Keep in mind that this method won’t be as effective if your pool isn’t in the sun or if you’re using stabilizer (cyanuric acid).

3. Use chemical agents to reduce chlorine levels

If the first two methods don’t give the desired results, there are chemical remedies that can help. Neutralizing chemicals are a great option when the pool needs to be up and running in a short amount of time. It is important to follow directions when using a chlorine neutralizing chemical, as misuse can result in chlorine levels and pH levels being significantly reduced. Two different chemical agents that can reduce chlorine levels are sodium thiosulfate and pool-grade hydrogen peroxide (specifically used for pool treatment). Be sure to test your water after using any of these agents, as they tend to affect pH, sometimes dramatically.

4. Drain some water and refill the pool

If time is not an issue, draining and refilling some of the pool water is also an option. Remember: this can affect your pool’s chemical balance (pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness). In case you decide to drain and refill your pool, here are a few guidelines:

Drain and replace about ⅓ to ½ of the pool water. If your pool has a liner, NEVER drain your entire pool.

Use one or more garden hoses and drop them into the side of the pool to replace the water.

Test the chemical values ​​and adjust accordingly.

It may take some time for chlorine levels to return to normal levels.

Keep testing

Whichever method you choose, always retest the chemical levels afterwards to make sure the chlorine level has gone down and no other chemical levels are too low or too high.

Do you need help? You can always bring a water sample to any of Zagers 4’s locations and we can test it for free and give you expert advice on how to solve your water chemistry problems.