R53 Map Sensor Location? Quick Answer

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Where is the MAP sensor on a Mini Cooper S?

On the Cooper S models, this sensor is located on a bracket above the thermostat housing and measures the manifold pressure upstream from the supercharger. All MINI models have the MAP sensor.

Where is the MAP sensor located?

The MAP sensor is typically located on the intake manifold, either next to or on the throttle body itself. (On a forced-induction engine, the MAP sensor can be found on the intake tract before the turbo.)

What can a faulty MAP sensor cause?

As the MAP sensor fails, it can cause various issues with the fuel system and vehicle performance. An inaccurate reading from the sensor will cause the computer to change the amount of fuel it sends, which can rob the engine of power or cause it to run poorly.

What happens if you unplug a MAP sensor?

With the MAP sensor disconnected, the fuel delivery will be excessive and could cause harm to the engine and exhaust system (catalytic converters). Your vehicle getting on the freeway accelerating, bogging down, and reaccelerating sounds like fuel starvation. It could be a fuel pump fault or a plugged fuel filter.

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

Hi. The description you provided should diagnose and fix your vehicle’s drivability issues. It is not advisable to drive your vehicle with the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor disconnected. The job of the MAP sensor is to determine the load on the engine and deliver fuel to the engine accordingly. If the MAP sensor is disconnected, the fuel supply will be too high and could damage the engine and exhaust system (catalytic converters). When your vehicle accelerates on the freeway, stalls, and then accelerates again, it sounds like you’re running out of fuel. It could be a fuel pump fault or a clogged fuel filter. I recommend having your vehicle’s drivability issues checked by a certified technician, e.g. B. one from Vermin Club, to diagnose and repair.

What are the symptoms of a MAP sensor?

Bad MAP Sensor Symptoms
  • Check Engine Light. The engine control unit constantly monitors all the sensors in your car engine while you drive the car. …
  • Lean Air-fuel Mixture. …
  • Rich Air-fuel Mixture. …
  • Stalling or Rough Idle. …
  • Misfires. …
  • Increased Emission Level. …
  • Bad Engine Performance. …
  • Backfires.

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

The MAP sensor measures the air pressure in the intake manifold. But how do you tell the MAP sensor is bad? Continue reading!

The intake manifold absolute pressure sensor, also known as the MAP sensor, is an important part of the vehicle’s engine management system.

The MAP sensor is found on fuel injected vehicles and the main function of the MAP sensor is to provide the Powertrain Control Module (PCM/ECM) with information about the intake manifold pressure.

Like any sensor in your vehicle, the MAP sensor will wear out and become damaged over time, which can result in incorrect data being sent to the engine control unit. So what happens when a MAP sensor fails? Here’s a quick rundown of the signs to look out for:

The most common symptom of a bad MAP sensor is poor fuel economy along with a check engine light on your dash. You may also notice signs such as a misfire or engine stalling. Rough idling or starting problems are also common signs

Any problem with the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor will result in improper combustion, damage to the engine, and loss of performance.

Here is a more detailed list of the common symptoms of a bad MAP sensor:

Bad MAP Sensor Symptoms

1. Check engine light

The engine control unit constantly monitors all sensors in your car engine while driving. If any of these sensor readings are outside of the specified range, the check engine light will illuminate.

Therefore, when your MAP sensor sends incorrect information to the engine control unit, the check engine light appears on your dashboard.

2. Lean air/fuel mixture

The main purpose of the MAP sensor is to measure the air pressure in the intake manifold to calculate the correct air/fuel mixture for your engine. If the sensor is bad, it can cause your engine to get an air-fuel mixture that is too lean.

A lean fuel mixture can cause many strange symptoms in your engine, which you can find further down in this list.

3. Rich air/fuel mixture

The same applies vice versa. If the MAP sensor is bad, it can also send a faulty signal, causing the engine control unit to inject too much fuel into the car engine.

A rich air-fuel mixture not only increases fuel consumption, but also causes performance problems.

4. Stalling or rough idle

If your air-fuel mixture is too rich or too lean due to a faulty MAP sensor, you may experience engine idling problems. When the engine is idling it is very sensitive and therefore you may first notice a faulty air/fuel mixture at idle.

Many other faulty parts can also cause this, so it should be properly diagnosed before replacing the MAP sensor.

5. Misfires

Misfire occurs when combustion in the engine cylinder fails. This can be caused by improper air/fuel mixture or poor spark. A MAP sensor can actually cause the air/fuel mixture to get so bad that you may notice misfires.

You can often spot a misfire by listening to your engine. If you can hear small bumps or if it doesn’t sound like it normally sounds, it could be caused by misfire.

6. Elevated level of emissions

When the intake manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is damaged, it can send an incorrect signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) indicating high or low engine load.

In order to have a good level of emissions in your car, the air-fuel mixture must be perfect. Even a small error with the MAP sensor can cause the fuel mixture to interfere with emission levels.

7. Poor engine performance

As already mentioned, improper fuel mixture will cause engine performance to decrease. A lean mixture usually leads to reduced engine performance, but it can also be caused by a mixture that is too rich.

Poor engine performance can also be caused by misfires caused by a bad MAP sensor, as discussed earlier in this article.

8. Misfires

Misfire occurs when the fuel flowing through your engine is not combusted properly. If the fuel is not ignited in the combustion chamber, it can end up in the exhaust pipe. As you might suspect, the exhaust pipe gets very hot, which can ignite the air/fuel mixture there.

This results in loud pops from the exhaust system which can actually cause your mufflers etc to explode. It can also cause your car to catch fire if you are unlucky.

9. Hard start condition

A faulty MAP sensor also causes problems when starting the car. The car’s on-board computer uses the MAP sensor to determine the air pressure before the engine is started.

The engine is very sensitive to the correct air/fuel mixture at the moment of starting and therefore an erroneous reading can result in the engine being under-fueled and the engine possibly not starting at all.

10. Changed fuel consumption

This is most likely the most understandable if you read everything at the top of the article. Of course, a faulty air-fuel mixture caused by a bad MAP sensor will also result in a change in fuel economy.

If you find that your car is using less or more fuel than before, it may well be due to a faulty MAP sensor.

MAP sensor location

The MAP sensor is located on the intake manifold on most car models. It can also be installed on the vehicle body on a vacuum hose coming from the intake manifold.

The location of the MAP sensor depends on the design of your car and it is recommended that you check the service manual for the exact location of the MAP sensor in your car.

MAP sensor replacement cost

The average cost of replacing the MAP sensor ranges from $60 to $170 depending on vehicle model and labor costs. Labor costs are around $30-$70, while the sensor itself costs between $30-$100.

Replacing the MAP sensor is often relatively easy and can be done at home on most car models. If you have a little car knowledge, you can certainly save some money to do it yourself.

Diagnosing a bad MAP sensor

Diagnosing a faulty or failed MAP sensor can be done by first observing the symptoms present in your vehicle and then using a physical test as a diagnostic procedure.

The easiest way to check the MAP sensor is to hook up a diagnostic scanner to check the MAP sensor reading. With the engine off but the ignition on you should get a reading of around 1 bar or 14.5psi.

Watch this video for the procedure to test a MAP sensor: Testing the MAP Sensor.

Here is a quick step-by-step guide you can follow to check, test and diagnose if the MAP sensor is faulty in your vehicle.

Locate your engine’s MAP sensor by looking it yourself or by consulting your vehicle’s service manual. Make sure the vacuum hose connected to the MAP sensor is properly connected and in excellent condition. Check that the connections and the electrical cables are in good condition. Clean the sensor with an electronic cleaner and check the values ​​again with your diagnostic scanner. Test the MAP sensor using these instructions. Measure the wiring between the engine control module and the MAP sensor. Replace the MAP sensor is defective, otherwise repair the wiring.

Frequently asked questions about the MAP sensor

Will a MAP sensor always throw a code?

First, you can check for codes, but like we just said, many times a failing MAP sensor won’t throw a code until it has died altogether.

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

Got a brain and a decent set of hand tools? If the answer is yes, then consider yourself capable of addressing most of the common ailments your Jeep is sure to experience throughout its life cycle. Jeeps are relatively simple creatures by nature. Sure, you can’t fix the more modern variants with a stone butter knife and hammer, but you probably don’t need a $100,000 Scantronicbot machine either.

Any fool can throw new parts at a mechanical problem until it goes away. But why throw good money out the window when you don’t have to? So over the next year (or maybe longer, who knows) we’ll be highlighting some problems common to Jeep models, walking you through the diagnostic tests to pinpoint the problem, and showing you the solution.

MAP disorder

All fuel injected Jeeps use a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The MAP sensor monitors engine manifold vacuum and translates this reading into an electrical signal that is sent to the ECU. Depending on the MAP sensor voltage, the ECU will fire the injector for a longer or shorter burst to deliver more or less fuel as the case may be. It’s a pretty foolproof and simple design, but they can have problems. If, after the engine has warmed up to operating temperature, your Jeep suffers from poor drivability, judder, rough idle, overly rich exhaust, or ringing even with mediocre fuel, chances are the MAP sensor has started to go out of range, or outright failed . The thing is, a bad MAP sensor doesn’t always trigger a check engine light or cause the computer to register a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code).

diagnosis

On newer Jeeps, particularly ’96-later OBDII models, the MAP sensor is either mounted on the manifold or right next to the throttle body. On older Jeeps, particularly ’95 older OBDI models, the MAP sensor is remotely mounted, usually on a firewall-mounted bracket.

You can check for codes at first, but as we just said, a faulty MAP sensor often won’t give a code until it’s completely dead. It doesn’t work on all models, but if you don’t have a code scanner you can sometimes turn the key from off to run three times in a row and then leave the key forward in the run position after the last time. Watch the digital odometer display or check for flashing indicator lights. Either write down the displayed code or count the blinks. The OBDI code for a faulty MAP is either DTC 13 or 14 while the OBDII code is P0108. But chances are you don’t have a scan tool or are lucky enough to have your jeep flash codes.

Check the voltage at the connector as shown in the photos and captions and make sure the vacuum line to the MAP sensor is not kinked, pinched or leaking. The MAP sensor should also hold the vacuum without bleeding. Follow the photos and caption for the full rundown.

The repair

With a MAP sensor, the only solution is to replace the device if it is found to be faulty. Thankfully, Quadratec not only offers tons of really cool aftermarket gear to personalize your Jeep, they also offer a whole range of quality OE specification replacement parts. After determining ours was defective, we ordered a new MAP sensor and had it installed in minutes. The Jeep immediately regained its drivability and no longer bucked, bucked or jerked. We haven’t calculated a full tank for actual numbers yet, but mileage seems to have improved as well.

parts and special tools

Quadratec offers replacement parts for all Jeep models from the current JK back to the ’41 Willys, as well as certain specialty hand and diagnostic tools. Our tools were part of our current inventory, but if you don’t want to purchase specific diagnostic tools, your local auto parts store will sometimes rent or lend what you need.

• Multimeter with DC scale

• Manual vacuum pump

• Quadratec PN 55122.2001 MAP sensor for ’87-’95 Jeep Wrangler and Cherokee with 4.0L or 2.5L engines

Is it better to clean or replace a MAP sensor?

MAP sensors contain no moving parts, and they don’t typically wear out, but cleaning the MAP sensor may be required if it’s contaminated by carbon or other deposits from the engine. If voltage is slow to respond to pressure changes, contamination could be responsible.

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

Even a well-maintained engine collects deposits of dust, dirt, soot, carbon and oil – both inside and out. These deposits can cause many problems such as: B. Interrupted air flow, dirty spark plugs or injectors, engine overheating or distorted sensor readings. Cleaning the MAP sensor may be necessary if you experience poor fuel economy, a rough idle, hesitation or stalling under acceleration, or an illuminated check engine light.

On fuel injected engines, the engine control module (ECM) calculates the injector pulse based on several other sensor readings, such as: B. engine speed, engine coolant temperature (ECT), intake air temperature (IAT) and air-fuel ratio (AFR). , among other. Mass airflow is a critical measurement that the ECM uses to calculate fuel injection, and most engines are equipped with either a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor or a mass airflow (MAF) sensor. Some turbocharged engines use both MAF and MAP sensors.

You can usually tell if you have a MAP sensor if you can’t find a MAF sensor in the intake air tube in front of the throttle body. The MAP sensor is usually mounted directly on the intake manifold, somewhere behind the throttle body, although some are firewall or elsewhere mounted in the engine compartment and are connected to the intake manifold by a vacuum line. In some vehicles – older K-cars for example – the MAP sensor is mounted by the ECM and connected to the intake manifold via a long vacuum hose. The MAP sensor continuously measures the pressure/vacuum in the intake manifold.

Checking a MAP sensor

You can easily test a MAP sensor with a vacuum pump and a multimeter. First remove the vacuum line or MAP sensor from the intake manifold. With the MAP sensor connected and the ignition ON, check the voltage output at the MAP sensor signal wire. Turbocharged engine MAP sensors are also pressure responsive and their pressure/voltage readings may be different. In any case, check your repair manual for the schematic and specific voltage ratings.

The typical MAP sensor should read about 4.7V when open to air. Using the vacuum pump you should see a voltage drop to about 1V at 20 inHg vacuum. Repeat the test, noting that when you pull and release vacuum/pressure, the voltage should respond immediately.

MAP sensors have no moving parts and do not normally wear out, but cleaning of the MAP sensor may be necessary if it is contaminated with carbon or other deposits from the engine. If the voltage is slow to respond to pressure changes, contamination could be to blame.

Cleaning the MAP sensor step by step

Cleaning the MAP sensor requires just a few more steps:

Unplug the MAP sensor and put on rubber gloves to protect your skin. Safety goggles are also a good idea. Use an electrical parts cleaner on a soft rag or paper towel to clean the outside of the MAP sensor. Spray the electrical parts cleaner into the sensor opening – a few squirts are usually enough. Shake out the excess and allow the MAP sensor to dry. Check the MAP sensor vacuum hose or intake manifold fitting for additional debris. If necessary, clean them with electronic parts cleaner and a brush. Once everything is dry, which shouldn’t take very long, the MAP sensor should be free of contamination. Reinstall the MAP sensor.

Cleaning the MAP sensor is an easy way to restore engine performance and fuel economy. To keep other parts of the air and fuel system clean, consider an intake system cleaner the next time you service your engine.

View all chemical products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on how to clean the MAP sensor, speak to a knowledgeable professional at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

How do you reset a MAP sensor?

Check the MAF sensor and clean it out with dry air. Then put it on and disconnect the battery for 12 minutes and hook it up. This will clear the computer to want to relearn itself. Then drive the vehicle and see what happens.

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

Hello and thank you for contacting Vermin Club. This problem is not the MAP sensor, it is the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. This sensor is usually overlooked unless the computer detects a malfunction. Most often, the MAF becomes dirty and ineffective, not functioning properly, but within the parameters of the computer system. Check the MAF sensor and clean it with dry air. Then put it on and disconnect and connect the battery for 12 minutes. This frees the computer to want to relearn itself. Then drive the vehicle and see what happens. If the light comes back on and power is cut again, disconnect the MAF and see if the motor still works the same. If the engine doesn’t change, the MAF isn’t working and needs to be replaced. If you need further help troubleshooting your vehicle, contact a technician, e.g. B. One from Vermin Club who can help you with the engine stuttering problem.

How do you reset a MAP sensor?

Check the MAF sensor and clean it out with dry air. Then put it on and disconnect the battery for 12 minutes and hook it up. This will clear the computer to want to relearn itself. Then drive the vehicle and see what happens.

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

Hello and thank you for contacting Vermin Club. This problem is not the MAP sensor, it is the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. This sensor is usually overlooked unless the computer detects a malfunction. Most often, the MAF becomes dirty and ineffective, not functioning properly, but within the parameters of the computer system. Check the MAF sensor and clean it with dry air. Then put it on and disconnect and connect the battery for 12 minutes. This frees the computer to want to relearn itself. Then drive the vehicle and see what happens. If the light comes back on and power is cut again, disconnect the MAF and see if the motor still works the same. If the engine doesn’t change, the MAF isn’t working and needs to be replaced. If you need further help troubleshooting your vehicle, contact a technician, e.g. B. One from Vermin Club who can help you with the engine stuttering problem.

What does the MAP sensor control?

MAP Sensors

The sensor provides instant manifold pressure information to the engine’s electronic control unit. The data is used to calculate air density and determine the engine’s air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel delivery for perfect combustion.

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

MAP sensors

The manifold pressure sensor is used in an engine’s electronic control system. Engines using a pressure sensor are typically fuel injected. The sensor provides instant boost pressure information to the engine’s electronic control unit. The data is used to calculate air density and determine engine air mass flow, which in turn determines the fueling required for perfect combustion. A fuel-injected engine may use a MAF sensor or a pressure sensor—or sometimes both—to sense intake airflow.

The Manifold Pressure Sensor can be used for diagnostics as it measures throttle body performance, turbo performance and can be used to detect leaks in the intake manifold. Because of its location, it should always read a vacuum unless the turbo boosts the pressure. This can be seen in the attached diagram.

Abbreviations for MAP sensors

Common names for the intake manifold pressure sensor are:

Manifold absolute pressure sensor

engine load sensor

pressure sensor

boost sensor

Frequently used abbreviations are:

Do MAP sensors need cleaning?

MAP sensors contain no moving parts, and they don’t typically wear out, but cleaning the MAP sensor may be required if it’s contaminated by carbon or other deposits from the engine. If voltage is slow to respond to pressure changes, contamination could be responsible.

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

Even a well-maintained engine collects deposits of dust, dirt, soot, carbon and oil – both inside and out. These deposits can cause many problems such as: B. Interrupted air flow, dirty spark plugs or injectors, engine overheating or distorted sensor readings. Cleaning the MAP sensor may be necessary if you experience poor fuel economy, a rough idle, hesitation or stalling under acceleration, or an illuminated check engine light.

On fuel injected engines, the engine control module (ECM) calculates the injector pulse based on several other sensor readings, such as: B. engine speed, engine coolant temperature (ECT), intake air temperature (IAT) and air-fuel ratio (AFR). , among other. Mass airflow is a critical measurement that the ECM uses to calculate fuel injection, and most engines are equipped with either a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor or a mass airflow (MAF) sensor. Some turbocharged engines use both MAF and MAP sensors.

You can usually tell if you have a MAP sensor if you can’t find a MAF sensor in the intake air tube in front of the throttle body. The MAP sensor is usually mounted directly on the intake manifold, somewhere behind the throttle body, although some are firewall or elsewhere mounted in the engine compartment and are connected to the intake manifold by a vacuum line. In some vehicles – older K-cars for example – the MAP sensor is mounted by the ECM and connected to the intake manifold via a long vacuum hose. The MAP sensor continuously measures the pressure/vacuum in the intake manifold.

Checking a MAP sensor

You can easily test a MAP sensor with a vacuum pump and a multimeter. First remove the vacuum line or MAP sensor from the intake manifold. With the MAP sensor connected and the ignition ON, check the voltage output at the MAP sensor signal wire. Turbocharged engine MAP sensors are also pressure responsive and their pressure/voltage readings may be different. In any case, check your repair manual for the schematic and specific voltage ratings.

The typical MAP sensor should read about 4.7V when open to air. Using the vacuum pump you should see a voltage drop to about 1V at 20 inHg vacuum. Repeat the test, noting that when you pull and release vacuum/pressure, the voltage should respond immediately.

MAP sensors have no moving parts and do not normally wear out, but cleaning of the MAP sensor may be necessary if it is contaminated with carbon or other deposits from the engine. If the voltage is slow to respond to pressure changes, contamination could be to blame.

Cleaning the MAP sensor step by step

Cleaning the MAP sensor requires just a few more steps:

Unplug the MAP sensor and put on rubber gloves to protect your skin. Safety goggles are also a good idea. Use an electrical parts cleaner on a soft rag or paper towel to clean the outside of the MAP sensor. Spray the electrical parts cleaner into the sensor opening – a few squirts are usually enough. Shake out the excess and allow the MAP sensor to dry. Check the MAP sensor vacuum hose or intake manifold fitting for additional debris. If necessary, clean them with electronic parts cleaner and a brush. Once everything is dry, which shouldn’t take very long, the MAP sensor should be free of contamination. Reinstall the MAP sensor.

Cleaning the MAP sensor is an easy way to restore engine performance and fuel economy. To keep other parts of the air and fuel system clean, consider an intake system cleaner the next time you service your engine.

View all chemical products available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on how to clean the MAP sensor, speak to a knowledgeable professional at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store.

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

2006 Mini Cooper R53 MAP and TMAP sensor locations

2006 Mini Cooper R53 MAP and TMAP sensor locations
2006 Mini Cooper R53 MAP and TMAP sensor locations


See some more details on the topic r53 map sensor location here:

Map or maf sensor | MINI Cooper Forum

There are two Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensors. One is located on the front of the inlet manifold, on the right hand se as you stand in …

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Mini Cooper Map Sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure

On the Cooper S models, this sensor is located on a bracket above the thermostat housing and measures the manifold pressure upstream from the supercharger. Fits …

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R53 Map Sensor? – MiniTorque.com

Plugged it in and a failed map sensor was the problem. Went to Cotswold MINI and changed it, all sorted. Last week, Engine light came on again.

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R53 – Cooper – S – Replacing MAP Sensor – what do I need?

The downstream MAP or T-MAP is on the front of the intake manifold, the upstream MAP is above the thermostat housing, to the right of the head …

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TMAP/MAP sensor location

Can you buy two of the same sensors to replace MAP and TMAP or each sensor is different and has to be bought separately? I replaced the MAP sensor (one near the thermostat) but I still have a CEL code for it. I replaced it before realizing my wiring harness had been attacked by a tiny little field mouse. Upload pictures so numbers can be verified. I haven’t replaced the TMAP yet.

Sorry to revive an old thread but after searching a bit on Realoem and other sites I’m still a bit confused. Can anyone confirm if the TMAP and MAP sensors are just the same sensor in two different places? Or are they two different sensors? I can only seem to find a part number on only one MAP sensor

I’ve looked around online quite a bit and have come to two conflicting conclusions regarding the location of the TMAP and MAP sensors. Can someone who is quite sure of his location please respond with the answer? From what I understand the TMAP is on the intake manifold (just under the hood at the front of the car) and the MAP sensor is on a mount near the thermostat (also near the oil cap). ???

Posting Quick Reply – Please Wait Quick Reply: Position of TMAP/MAP sensor

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Mini Cooper Map Sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure

MINI Factory Replacement Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor.

On non-S Cooper models, this sensor is located at the end of the intake manifold and measures manifold pressure.

On the Cooper S models, this sensor is located on a bracket above the thermostat housing and measures the charge pressure in front of the compressor.

Compatible with following models:

2002-2006 R50 MINI Cooper and R53 MINI Cooper S Hatchback

2005-2008 R52 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Convertibles

All MINI models have the MAP sensor. Cooper S models also use the Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure (TMAP) sensor in addition to the MAP sensor. Both the MAP and TMAP sensors look identical except for the numbers printed on them. Pay attention to the right unit!

Choose accordingly.

MAP/TMAP SENSOR APPLICATION GUIDE

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

Typically found in fuel injected engines, the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is one of the sensors that an Engine Control Module (ECM) uses to calculate fuel injection for optimal air-fuel ratio by continuously monitoring intake manifold pressure information . A mass air flow (MAF) sensor is commonly used in place of a MAP sensor, but turbocharged engines typically use both a MAP and MAF sensor. The MAP sensor also plays an important role in helping the ECM determine when ignition should occur under varying engine load conditions.

Regardless of what sensor your engine uses, the ECM cannot optimize fuel injection without accurate mass airflow information from a working sensor. And a poor air-fuel ratio leads to at least performance problems and premature engine wear. A MAP sensor failure can be difficult to diagnose, but with the help of Delphi Technologies we can explain what causes it, what to look for and how to replace it if it fails.

How does a MAP sensor work?

The MAP sensor is usually located on the intake manifold, either next to or on the throttle body itself. (On a supercharged engine, the MAP sensor is located in the intake tract, before the turbo.) Inside the MAP sensor is a sealed chamber that is either has a vacuum or controlled pressure calibrated for the engine. A flexible silicon wafer (aka “chip”), through which a current flows, separates the sensor vacuum and the vacuum from the intake manifold.

The MAP sensor does double duty as a barometric pressure sensor as soon as the key is turned on. With the key on (prior to starting the engine), there is no engine vacuum at the MAP sensor, so its signal to the ECM becomes a barometric reading that helps determine air density. When you start the engine, the pressure in the intake manifold drops, creating a vacuum that is applied to the MAP sensor. When you step on the gas pedal, the pressure in the intake manifold increases, resulting in less vacuum. The pressure differences bend the chip up into the sealed chamber, causing a resistance change in voltage, which in turn tells the ECU to inject more fuel into the engine. When the accelerator pedal is released, the pressure in the intake manifold drops, causing the clip to bend back to its resting state.

The ECU combines the boost pressure readings from the MAP sensor with data from the IAT (intake air temperature), ECT sensor (engine coolant temperature), barometer reading and engine speed (RPM) to calculate air density and accurately determine the engine’s air mass flow rate for one optimal air-fuel ratio.

Why do MAP sensors fail?

Like most electrical sensors, MAP sensors are sensitive to contamination. If the map sensor uses a hose, the hose may become clogged or leaking and not detect changes in pressure. In some cases, extreme vibration while driving can loosen connections and cause external damage. Electrical connectors can also melt or crack from overheating due to close proximity to the engine. In each of these scenarios, the MAP sensor needs to be replaced.

What to look out for with a defective MAP sensor

A faulty MAP sensor affects an engine’s air-fuel ratio. If the ratio is wrong, the engine will ignite at the wrong point in the combustion cycle. If a severe pre-detonation persists for an extended period of time, the engine’s internal parts (such as pistons, rods, rod bearings) will be damaged, eventually leading to catastrophic failure. Look out for these warning signs:

Rich air/fuel ratio: Beware of rough idling, poor fuel economy, slow acceleration, and strong smell of gasoline (especially at idle)

Look for rough idling, poor fuel economy, slow acceleration, and a strong smell of gasoline (especially when idling). Lean air-fuel ratio: Beware of surge, stalling, lack of power, hesitation under acceleration, intake misfire and overheating

Watch out for surge, stall, lack of power, hesitation in acceleration, misfire through the intake and overheating, detonation and misfire

Failed emissions test

Check the engine light

A rebuilt engine is a lot more trouble than replacing a sensor. So, if your engine is exhibiting any of the above symptoms, you should consider troubleshooting your MAP sensor.

Common MAP Sensor Trouble Codes

Here is a list of codes associated with the MAP sensor to look for if your check engine light is on:

P0068: MAP/MAF – Throttle Position Correlation

MAP/MAF – Throttle Position Correlation P0069: Manifold Absolute Pressure – Barometric Pressure Correlation

Correlation between manifold absolute pressure and barometric pressure P0105: MAP circuit malfunction

MAP Circuit Malfunction P0106: MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem

MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0107: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input

Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input P0108: MAP Pressure Circuit High Input

MAP Pressure Circuit High Input P0109: MAP/Baro Pressure Circuit Intermittent

MAP/BARO Pressure Circuit Intermittent P1106: MAP/BARO Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem

MAP/BARO Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem P1107: Barometric pressure sensor circuit low voltage

Note: Sometimes various sensors or other faulty parts can cause these codes to set. Even if your engine is exhibiting the symptoms listed above and is triggering one or more of the listed OBD-II codes, it is recommended that you test the MAP sensor to make sure it is faulty.

Troubleshooting a MAP sensor

Before any testing, check the physical appearance of the MAP sensor. Start by checking the connector and wiring for damage such as cracked wire. B. melted or broken wires and make sure there are no loose connections. Disconnect the sensor and check the pins; They should be straight and clean with no signs of corrosion or bending. Next, check the hose (if applicable) that connects the sensor to the intake manifold for signs of damage and for a secure connection to the sensor. Finally, take a look inside the hose to make sure it’s free of debris.

If everything passes the physical inspection, you can test the MAP sensor with a digital multimeter set to 20V and a vacuum pump.

With the battery switched on and the engine switched off, connect the earth of the multimeter to the negative pole of the battery and carry out a quick plausibility check by checking the battery voltage. It should be around 12.6 volts. Consult the manufacturer’s service manual to identify the signal, ground, and 5 volt reference and do a back check of the wires. Switch on the ignition without starting the engine. The multimeter should (usually) read between 4.5 and 5 volts for the 5 volt reference, a constant 0 volts for the ground wire, and between 0.5 and 1.5 volts for the signal wire on non-turbo applications and between 2.0 and 3.0 for Show Turbo applications. Consult the OEM factory service information for the exact specifications of your vehicle. Start the engine with the signal cable traced backwards. The multimeter should read between 0.5 and 1.5 volts at sea level for non-turbocharged vehicles and between 2.0 and 2.5 volts for turbocharged models. Turn off the engine but leave the ignition on. Under the hood, disconnect the MAP sensor from the intake only. Connect a hand vacuum pump and note the current voltage from the signal wire. Increase the vacuum on the sensor with the vacuum pump. The voltage should drop steadily as the vacuum increases.

If your voltage varies significantly on both tests, or the voltage change is erratic, the MAP sensor is defective and will need to be replaced.

How to replace a faulty MAP sensor

Replacing a faulty MAP sensor will vary by vehicle, so please consult the manufacturer’s service manual for specific instructions. Once the faulty sensor has been removed it is a simple installation for the new part.

Locate the MAP sensor on the intake manifold, either next to or on the throttle body itself, or on the intake manifold. Remove any screws or bolts securing the sensor. Disconnect the electrical plug. Note: Do not force removal as the connector may contain a locking tab that may need to be removed before detaching the connector from the sensor. If necessary, detach the vacuum hose from the sensor. Note: It is recommended to replace the vacuum hose with a new hose when replacing the sensor. Compare the new and old sensors. If necessary, reconnect the vacuum hose. Reconnect the sensor electrical connector. Reinstall any screws or bolts holding the sensor in place. Double check all connections to make sure everything is secured.

Note: Depending on the vehicle and if a trouble code has been set, a diagnostic tool may be required to reset the check engine light.

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