Ready Painted Skirting Boards? Top Answer Update

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Painting baseboards may not be the first use of your time that comes to mind, but in fact it’s a job that can really improve the look of your home! If you’ve already decided that this needs to be done and are looking for a guide to show you how to paint baseboards, then you’ve come to the right place.

Whether you have brand new baseboards to paint or want to give your previously painted floorboards some maintenance, here are our top tips. Continue reading!

Before you pick up your brush, there is one very important thing to do. Pull all of your furniture away from the walls so you have plenty of room to work, and cover all of your furniture with old linens or dusters to keep paint free.

How to clean baseboards before painting

When it comes to painting baseboards, preparation is key. Wipe down your baseboards with a sugar-soap solution and a sponge to remove any dust, dirt, or grime. If you need to do a more thorough cleaning, check out our handy guide to cleaning skirting boards.

Sanding the skirting boards

Once your boards are dry, the next step is to sand down the wood surface to make it clean and smooth. You can do this with sandpaper or an electric sander. Always sand with the grain and not against it as this creates a smoother surface. Sanding ensures the paint has a strong surface to adhere to. After sanding, take a damp cloth and wipe off dust. Gently slide your hand over the surface when finished to confirm the finish is clean. We recommend wearing a mask as it can get dusty!

Applying Knot Fixing – Skip this if you have MDF baseboards

You’ll also need to apply knot solution to your baseboards before painting them. Knots are a different color and texture than the background wood and pick up wood surfaces differently. Painting over branches without prepping them first means the branches will show through the paint no matter how many coats you apply. It usually takes two or three coats to fully cover a knot.

Keep in mind that some timbers have more knots than others. For example, pine can be particularly grainy and has lots of knots. However, some woods have no knots. For example, MDF skirting boards are knot-free, so if yours are made of MDF, you can skip this step.

How to protect your floors when painting skirting boards

One thing you might be concerned about when painting your baseboards is how to do it without getting paint all over your carpet or hardwood floor. We recommend placing a roll of self-adhesive plastic floor protection as close to the plank as possible to protect your flooring.

How to protect your walls when painting your skirting boards

Painting is a messy business, so it’s important to protect both your walls and floors when painting your baseboards. To do this, apply a piece of painter’s tape just above the top of your baseboards to avoid getting paint on your wall or wallpaper.

Do I need to prime my skirting boards?

If you have new or already primed baseboards or they have already been painted, you can skip this step. However, if your baseboards are wood finished or have not been previously painted, you will need to apply a coat or two of primer before painting. Wait for the primer to dry completely before painting.

We take all the hassle out of the prep phase for you as all of our skirting boards are fully finished and double primed!

Painting skirting boards – step by step

So far you’ve rearranged all the furniture, sanded the baseboards, and protected the walls and floors. It looks like you’ve completed the prep process, so now it’s time to paint!

1. Paint the top of the baseboard

Start by painting the top of your skirting board with a 2-inch brush. Dip your brush about halfway into the paint and sweep it across the inside of the can to remove excess paint. Ideally, you should have your brush fairly loaded with paint, but only on one side. This will ensure that the paint does not drip. If it drips, brush over it quickly to keep it from drying too much. Hold the brush at a 45-degree angle at the top of your baseboard, and paint right-to-left if you’re right-handed, or left-to-right if you’re left-handed.

2. Continue down

Repeat the process and paint the floor. Remember to be very careful as you don’t want paint stains on your floor. Even after you’ve installed flooring, chances are there’s still a tiny gap that calls for paint!

3. Paint the middle part

Next, paint the center of the board again using the same process. If you need to apply more coats of paint – most baseboards require two coats of paint – make sure they are completely dry before moving on to the next coat. Make sure you’ve evenly covered the entire profile!

4. Finishing touches

When you’re done, gently peel the painter’s tape away from your wall while the paint is still wet. However, with floor protection, you must wait for the paint to dry before removing the protection. We recommend waiting 12 hours or overnight before restoring your furniture to its original position.

Best paint for skirting boards

For decorative painting, you can use any paint suitable for wood. These include satin, eggshell and perhaps most commonly gloss. These colors give your skirting boards a professional finish and add a real decorative element to your room. If you are working on MDF moldings, first make sure they have been primed. If they don’t, you should either prime them or avoid water-based paint. Once that’s out of the way, choose either a water-based paint – these include acrylics and latex, or an oil-based one.

How to repaint baseboards

If you are repainting previously gloss or painted baseboards, you should clean them and prepare the area as you would any new plank. However, since they have already been painted, the wood does not need to be sanded or primed. Just pick your color and get started.

If you want to make preparing and painting baseboards easier, we have the solution for you. Choose from our wide range of ready-made skirting boards, from primed white to fully lacquered white or perhaps our real wood veneer or high-quality KOTA designs.

There are several steps to take to achieve a perfect finish with your floors including underlay, covering around pipes and regular maintenance. However, if you really want to create a seamless floor, the final step in ensuring that look is to install skirting boards. For the average person, this is a relatively straightforward task, requiring only basic DIY skills and a few tools. You should expect to spend around 1-2 days in a large living room, but you’ll be rewarded with savings of up to £150 in labor if you do it yourself.

What are skirting boards?

Skirting boards are wooden planks that cleverly cover the junction between wall and floor to create a seamless finish. They are suitable for laminate floors, parquet or solid wood.

What is the purpose of a skirting board?

Skirting boards provide an attractive appearance while concealing the necessary gap that must be left between the edge of the floor covering and the wall. This gap allows for the expansion and contraction that takes place over time. Not only do they cover the messy side of flooring installation, but they also offer protection from scuffs and stains.

How to remove baseboards

Skirting boards can take a lot of wear and tear over time. Fortunately, replacing them is not difficult, and baseboards come in a range of styles to suit your taste. To remove baseboards that are worn or don’t match the style of your room, simply insert the blade of a chisel between the wall and baseboard and tap the edge of the chisel with a hammer. This should loosen the baseboard enough that you can insert a pry bar to pry the plank out. Slide a small piece of wood behind the pry bar to avoid denting the plaster.

How to install skirting boards

Start on the longest wall with the inside corners first and measure the piece against the wall, mark the top edge to indicate where to cut. If you have a vise, make good use of it and hold the board while you saw it. You need to angle the cut to fit in the corner along with the other board. If you are using screws to fasten the baseboards, try to use wall nails or screws at existing points if possible. If none are present, fasten nails to the highest flat part of the baseboard every 600mm. If you chose to glue the nails instead of nailing them in place, spread the glue evenly on the backing. Press it in place and use some wooden supports to support it in place until the glue sets.

Should skirting boards touch the floor?

Whether you install skirting boards with or without a gap depends on the type of flooring you are installing. Carpets must be attached to the baseboards, not under them. When laying carpets, it is best to mount the baseboards first. With carpeted floors, skirting boards can be attached to the floor. With laminate or tiles, there is a requirement for a small gap between the floor covering and the skirting board. Skirting boards should therefore not have any contact with the floor and should only be attached after the floor covering has been laid.

Can I fill the gaps under the baseboards?

Depending on the size of the gaps between the floor and the bottom of the baseboard, sealant can be used to seal the gap. The sealer can be applied with an applicator gun, making it clean, tidy and effortless.

If your laminate floor has gaps that aren’t covered by skirting boards, color sealer is available so you can match the color to your floor. Waterproof finish is also available to protect your floors from water damage, especially in rooms like kitchens and bathrooms.

Skirting boards for every home

At Factory Direct Flooring Ltd we have everything to meet your flooring needs and that goes for skirting boards too. Our skirting boards are available in either laminate or solid wood but in a range of styles, sizes, stains and grain finishes to suit the diversity of our flooring ranges.

See also: How to measure your floor

If you’re still feeling a little lost when it comes to installing your skirting boards on your brand new flooring, then call 030 100 00 15 to speak to one of our flooring experts.

Nails, screws or glue? Which is the best when installing baseboards

When it comes to installing baseboards, you will use many tools during the process. You’ll also need something to hold the baseboard in place – nails, screws, or glue. But which method is the best?

We recommend that you hire the professionals to install your new baseboards. However, we made this post to help the avid DIYer in case you install them yourself.

Use glue to attach the baseboard to the wall

If you have nice, straight walls, attaching baseboards with glue is the easiest choice. This will give you a clean and professional finish.

After you cut the panel, you need to apply the glue to the back. We recommend using a zig zag pattern.

This will ensure the coverage is even once it’s stuck to the wall. The trick is to use just enough – too little and it may not stick, too much and it may not sit flush.

When attaching the skirting board to the wall, you should press firmly (along the entire length) to ensure full adhesion is achieved.

After the glue hardens, the skirting board should stick firmly to the wall!

If your walls are old and not 100% straight, you may want to use another method besides glue to ensure the baseboard stays in place.

What is the best glue for skirting boards?

Having mentioned glue as a good option for attaching baseboards to the wall, it seems fitting that we recommend one!

The best adhesive for skirting boards is Demsun A30 Adhesive. We are so convinced of this that we offer it to all our customers.

It is super strong making it perfect for use with our products.

Use nails (or tacks) to attach the baseboard to the wall

Nails are a good option for a secure fit – especially when combined with glue.

If you choose to use nails, we suggest you fix the skirting board to the wall with glue first, and then nail the skirting board with the nails.

Before attaching the skirting board to the wall, it makes sense to use a pencil to mark where the pins will go. In this way, the skirting board can be attached directly to the wall.

Make sure the nails are long enough to go through the baseboard and into the wall. Hit the nails in the marked positions with a hammer.

You may find that you cannot get the nail head flush with a hammer, especially when nailing through the decorative area. In this case, use a pin punch to drive the nail head flush or lightly into the skirting board.

If you’re pounding them into the baseboard, be sure to use some putty to cover the pin hole. This will give you a smooth and professional finish!

Nails are a good way to attach the skirting board. However, if the walls are very hard, you may need to consider the following:

Using screws to attach the skirting board to the wall

The safest way to attach the skirting board to the wall is to use screws. However, you’ll need a few more tools if you plan to fix them this way.

First you need to figure out where to put the screws and mark them on the skirting board.

After marking, we recommend drilling pilot holes with a “countersink pilot hole drill”. This leaves a small pilot hole for the screw to ride down and also adds a countersink for the head of the screw to sink into.

Before screwing to the wall, we also recommend placing the baseboard against the wall and drilling slightly into the wall through the holes in the baseboard. This makes it easier to screw the skirting board to the wall.

You can also use glue to hold the baseboard in place.

Once you’ve screwed them to the wall, you can use putty to cover the screw holes and make it look like they’re not there!

summary

We hope this blog post has helped to show all the ways you can attach your baseboards to your walls.

Each method has advantages, but all will work provided you take the time to do the job properly.

Skirting boards can make all the difference when decorating your rooms, taking them from looking semi-finished to neatly framed. But how do you install those all-important baseboards?

When it comes to decorating, skirting boards should ideally be one of the first things you install – before the flooring. This means you no longer have to pull up the skirting board to change floors in the future.

If you’ve never done it before, the idea of ​​installing baseboards may seem a bit daunting. But with our easy-to-follow, step-by-step guide, professional-looking skirting boards are just a saw and drill away.

If you want to paint over high gloss paint without sanding, you’ve come to the right place.

Glossy painted finishes can be great, especially when the paint color matches the rest of the decor. But you’ll need to touch up the paint at some point to maintain this splendor.

While a new coat of paint won’t adhere well to glossy surfaces, you don’t necessarily need to completely sand or sand down tried-and-true old paint. Instead, you just need to know how to paint over luster color without sanding.

Can you paint over a glossy surface without sanding? Yes, you can paint over high gloss without sanding. Begin by cleaning the shiny surface with sugar soap and water. Once it’s completely dry, scrape it off with a de-glosser and let it dry for at least 10 minutes. Then apply a suitable primer and then paint.

How to paint over high gloss paint without sanding

Painting over gloss paint requires proper surface preparation to allow the new coat of paint to hold. Here are the materials you need to paint without sanding and the steps to follow.

what will you need

Liquid shine remover

A pair of goggles to protect your eyes from the glare

A pair of gloves to keep the chemicals off your skin

Face mask for your protection

Primer to allow the paint to adhere to the surface

colour

brush and roller

Lint-free clothing

drop cloth

sugar soap and water

sponge

Steps to follow when painting over glossy paint

Here is the procedure for painting over high gloss paint without the use of fine grit sandpaper.

Step 1: Prepare the work area

Start by removing anything that might get in the way of painting. Ideally, you’ll want to remove murals when you’re painting a wall and move any tables and chairs to make room.

Depending on the size of the project, the exercise may require a little movement. So by removing every obstacle that might get in your way, you can create the space you need.

You’ll also need to cover the floor and anything you don’t want to move with a cloth or plastic wrap. Spills are common when painting; The cover protects these surfaces from paint splashes or drips.

Also, make sure you work in a well-ventilated area. When you swipe a moving object, you can swipe it outside or in the garage. If you are working on painted walls or other solid parts of the house, open the windows to ensure proper ventilation.

Step 2: Protect yourself.

Some of the items you use when painting contain chemicals or produce fumes. Some of these fumes can be toxic if inhaled, so make sure you wear a protective face mask. In particular, you should wear a face mask when de-glazing, priming and painting.

You don’t want your skin to come into contact with chemicals. Be sure to wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.

You must wear safety glasses when using a de-glosser. This is because the product tends to emit fumes that can be hazardous to your eyes.

Step 3: Prepare the surface you want to paint.

Painting requires a clean surface. When painting a wall, remove all nails and hooks and clean with sugar soap and water. Dip a sponge in a mixture of warm water and soap, wring it out to remove the excess solution, and use it to wipe the entire surface you want to paint.

You should use gentle, circular motions when removing dust, loose dirt, and debris. Make sure you clean from the bottom up.

For stubborn stains, apply the cleaning solution generously to the surface and leave for about 10 minutes before rubbing with a sponge.

After removing the dirt, rinse the surface with clean water from top to bottom and use a clean towel or rag to dry the shiny paint. Thoroughly wipe off all moisture before proceeding to the next step.

Alternatively, you can simply let the paint air dry for about 30 minutes to an hour. Feel it with your hands to make sure it’s dry before proceeding.

Note: You can also use a mixture of warm water, dish soap, and white vinegar to make your cleaning solution. This mixture is also quite effective at removing dirt and stains from surfaces. Make sure you stir the mixture well before using it.

Step 4: Seal the parts you don’t want to paint

Use painter’s tape to cover electrical outlets and any other areas you don’t want to get the paint on. These pieces should include the ceiling and baseboards if you’re working on a wall.

Run the tape along the baseboards and ceiling line to protect them from paint and help you achieve professional-looking, clean lines.

Step 4: Deglaze the color

The purpose of the shine remover is to abrade the surface in the same way that sandpaper would. Attempting to paint directly onto the high gloss finish would result in delamination problems soon after painting is complete.

So make sure you give the color something to grab. Use a clean, lint-free cloth to apply a shine remover to the surface.

You can apply more than one layer of the liquid shine remover.

How to use a liquid de-glosser

To use a deglosser, do the following:

Start by wearing a pair of rubber gloves, a protective face mask, and safety goggles.

Soak the rag in the liquid and rub in a circular motion until you cover every inch.

Leave it on the surface for at least 10 minutes.

After applying the liquid degreaser, you have up to 7 days to apply the paint. Sometimes you can have up to 10 days depending on the de-gloss and activity around the glossy surface.

However, we recommend priming immediately after 10 minutes have passed. The surface could get dirty again if you wait days to paint, which could affect the quality of your paint job.

Step 5: Apply the primer

If the high gloss finish is an oil based paint, you should ensure the primer is also oil based. If it’s a water-based primer, make sure the primer is also water-based. The idea is to make sure you’re working with the same base as the original layer.

Primer is important as it helps the paint adhere to the surface. We recommend applying the primer with a roller. If the surface has ridges, you can apply primer to the ridges with a good quality brush and reserve the roller for flat surfaces.

Apply a thin, even coat, starting at the top and working your way down for good adhesion. Wait for the first coat to dry before applying a second. Two coats of primer would be good enough.

The manufacturer usually states how long you have to wait between coats. The drying time between coats of primer is often around an hour.

Step 6: Apply color.

Once the primer is dry it’s time to paint. Use a paint roller or brush to apply the paint the same way you applied the primer. Alternatively, you can also apply the paint from top to bottom with a paint sprayer.

Keep each coat of paint thin and even. And make sure you let each coat dry before applying the next. The product label should tell you how much time to wait between coats.

Be sure to test the painted surface by touching it lightly with your fingers to make sure it’s dry. It just needs to feel dry before you can apply a subsequent coat.

Depending on the desired color intensity and opacity, you can apply two or more layers of color.

Read: How to Clean Oil Paint from Brushes Without Paint Thinner

How to select color to use over glossy color

To choose paint for a high gloss finish, we recommend choosing your product based on the type of substrate you wish to paint on. Always consider using the same base for best results.

For example, if the shiny surfaces you want to repaint are painted with an oil-based product, buy an oil-based paint. If the floor has a water-based paint, choose a water-based product to apply over it.

You can also choose a similar color. For example, if the glossy color is gray, you can opt for gray color. On the other hand, if it’s white, you might consider white color.

However, if you want to change the color, make sure you apply several thin coats of the color for better opacity. It is important to have the same base. So decide for yourself which color you like best.

How to tell if a painted wall is an oil or water based paint

There is a simple test to determine if your high gloss paint is water based or oil based.

All you need is denatured alcohol and a clean cloth. Soak the rag in some denatured alcohol and rub a small part of the painted wall with it.

Check whether the rag picks the wall color or not. If the paint is water-based, it will stain the damp rag. However, if the paint is oil-based, the cloth will not get dirty.

Do I need to prime over high gloss paint?

You don’t need to prime the surface if you paint over gloss with gloss. In this case, simply clean and sand the surface, and then paint it.

If you want to paint over glossy woodwork with an eggshell or satin finish, there is no need to use a primer. Instead, you can lightly sand the surface and then apply the new coat of paint without a primer.

Can I spray paint over gloss paint?

Yes, you can spray paint on top of gloss paint when using oil based paint.

Oil based paints are formulated to adhere easily to high gloss painted surfaces. This explains why the oil-based spray paint sticks without any problems.

Still, make sure to lightly sand the surface and wipe off dust and dirt before applying the paint.

Can I paint matte over gloss?

You can paint over gloss once you’ve roughened it up a bit – sand down the glossy surface to give the new paint some grip. Once you’ve sanded the glossy layer, you’ve chipped off the outermost gloss and prepared it for the flat color layer.

Can I apply satin paint over gloss paint?

Yes, you can apply satin paint to gloss as long as you sand the gloss to remove the shine. The satin adheres easily to the painted surface.

You can also use a liquid degreaser to prep shiny walls for repainting if you don’t want to sand them down. The shine remover has the same effect as sanding with a fine-grain grip sandpaper.

See also: How to repaint a deck with peeling paint

How to fix peeling satin paint?

Here’s a simplified procedure for fixing peeling satin paint.

Step 1: Begin by lightly sanding the imperfect paint.

Step 2: Apply a thin coat of oil based primer to the water based latex paint.

Step 3: Lightly sand the primer to get an even, smooth finish.

Step 4: Apply two or more coats of high quality semi-gloss enamel to the primed surface.

DIY tips for painting over a semi-gloss paint

The secret to sanding over a satin finish is to sand and remove the shine before repainting with flat paint.

Always wear a face mask when sanding painted surfaces.

Always wear safety goggles and rubber gloves when using a shine remover.

Please do not wait days after a surface has lost its shine before painting.

frequently asked Questions

Can semi-gloss paint be sanded between coats?

Yes, it’s okay to sand semi-gloss paint between coats with fine grit sandpaper after each coat has dried. It is important to remove the grinding residue before each additional layer.

To what extent does the gloss finish need to be sanded before repainting?

A high gloss finish requires only light sanding prior to repainting. Use 220-320 grit sandpaper to sand down the smooth surface before repainting. You may want to start with a coarser sandpaper before sanding with a finer grit option.

Overpainting without sanding Summary

Whether you want to paint with a new color or change the shine from glossy paint to matte paint, matte paint or something else, knowing how to paint over glossy paint without sanding can save you some elbow grease.

We hope you find this guide useful. Please let us know your thoughts or additions in the comments.

OK, so you’re finally ready to paint. That doesn’t mean grabbing a paintbrush right away. As Melinda says, preparation is everything. So first set up a large (covered) table and lay out the following tools on it: your dust mask, spatula and spatula, paint scraper, dusting brush, a mixing board made of MDF, sandpaper (which of course also includes different grits – I use 180 for a rough wall, 120 for a regular wall), masking tape, brushes (Purdy brushes are a good brand) – and last but not least, your paint (including white emulsion for the “miscoat”). You can get all of this at any good hardware store.

Wear your favorite old painter’s clothes and some old sneakers too (shoes get splattered too). Move most of the furniture out of the room and roll up the rug(s). Push the remaining furniture to the center of the room and cover with a duster. Place newspaper in the area you are painting.

Say you’re painting the walls of a room, you could take the radiators off the wall so they don’t get in the way. Be sure to turn off the heating system and allow it to cool, then turn off the valves on each end of the radiator and drain before attempting to remove it. If you care less about what’s behind your radiators, simply invest in a radiator roller set.

Use masking tape to tape baseboards to the floor and around the windows, door frames, and ceiling.

Before painting, I fill in any gaps between the baseboard and the walls and on the sides of the window frames with paint putty.

Then prep the walls by rubbing them down with sandpaper and dusting them off with a brush – try to get one with lily bristles. Work methodically so you can keep track of what part of the room you’ve covered. When sanding the ceiling, use a rod with a pad on top covered with sandpaper. Or use a tall ladder to get closer.

After sanding, I like to apply a white emulsion (like a white wash) to the walls, giving a blank surface to start on to see where imperfections need to be filled. For the miscoat, take an empty bucket and use 1 part emulsion to 3 parts water. To fill holes, mix your putty powder on the wooden board, make a hole in the center, add water and mix into a paste. After the putty has dried, sand down the wall and then dust it off. Also use the putty as an aid when painting edges: run putty along the top and bottom of the walls and then rub down. They have a nice clean edge to brush in.

Top tips to finish like a champion

1. Incision

When painting the inside corner of a wall, where the wall meets the ceiling at a right angle, it’s best to use a painting technique called incising. To incise, paint in a horizontal line along the top of the wall, holding the edge of the brush firmly to the ceiling with firm and even strokes to get a nice straight edge. “This technique is especially useful when the ceiling is one color and the wall is another,” says real estate developer Phil Turner, who has appeared on numerous home improvement shows. “It keeps paint from spilling and gives you a nice border to paint the rest of the wall. Also use the technique along baseboards and windows.”

2. Pantyhose holder

When you open a can of paint you will find that an upper layer of skin has formed. Remove these by straining off the paint. Place a piece of old stocking, cheesecloth, pantyhose fabric, or panty hose over your paint bucket and strain the paint. You can also try turning the paint upside down for a few seconds while it’s still in the can (with the lid tight, obviously).

3. Nap selection

In roll language, pile is the thickness of the sleeve. When buying your paint roller, keep this rule in mind: use a larger pile for rough and uneven surfaces.

4. High rollers

Before you start painting the ceiling, it is worth buying an extension handle for your scooter. These are easy to get hold of. Since you’re so high up, you won’t want to lug a heavy paint can up the ladder, so dump some into a smaller container (like a large yogurt pot).

5. White Magic

White paint can be tricky because it’s difficult to keep track of where you’ve painted. Thankfully, there is such a thing as magical white paint. It will turn pink then fade to white as it dries. Try Dulux Magic.

6. By George

A paint protector, or george as it’s known in the jargon, helps protect the skirting board from paint splatters. Hold it against the skirting board while swiping across it.

7. Spilled paint

Surprisingly, kitty litter soaks up spilled paint. First try to contain the spill, then pour a generous amount of kitty litter on it. If the paint has dried into the flooring, pour paint thinner on the stain before sprinkling the cat litter over it. Wait overnight and then clean the area.

8. Maintain your color

Store your paint in an airtight container overnight. Make a note of the color and the space it is used in so you don’t get confused. Don’t keep paint in your garage; it gets cold in winter or too hot in summer and the color doesn’t survive well in extreme conditions. Protect your paint from drying out: Cover the tin with cling film before replacing the lid and storing upside down.

9. Don’t throw it away

Never pour leftover paint down the drain. Donate it to a recycling scheme like communityrepaint.org.uk instead. Put all paint donations in a sealed paint can and write the color of the paint on it when the label is no longer visible.

10. Embellish your brushes

Rub excess paint off brush onto newspaper. For emulsion paint, simply use soap and water on the brushes, rinse under clean, warm water, and pat dry with a paper towel. For oil paints, rinse brushes with mineral spirits, then dry with paper towels. For hardened paint, try dipping the brush in paint remover to soften it. Don’t let the brush soak for too long or you could damage the bristles. Repeat as needed, then rinse the brush in hot, soapy water and hang bristles down to dry. Wrap brushes or rollers in cling film or baking foil for long-term storage.

· Carlene Thomas-Bailey

Which weapon?

painting pad …

Flat, rectangular painting tool with foam front for spreading paint. They create less mess than rollers and provide smooth, even coverage, but you’ll need to dip them in paint more often. When using a color block, pour color into the applicator cup and built-in roller to charge the color and remove excess color. It is best to start in a corner and work in stripes.

roller …

A common tool for covering large areas. When using the roller, dip into the paint tray, do not overload, apply with light, even pressure.

Or brush?

If you choose to use a brush, dust it against your palm before painting to remove loose bristles. Dip in paint to cover a third of the bristle depth, rub on the side to remove excess, then apply to the wall.

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preparation

To give you plenty of space to work, put all the furniture in the middle of the room and cover it with a dust-proof sheet.

Sand the skirting board to remove peeling paint and rough up the old paint or stain a bit to help the new paint adhere properly. This can be fiddly work, especially if your baseboard is very decorative, but is worth the effort for a good finish.

Fill cracks, corners, nail holes, etc. with a suitable filler and sand when the filler has dried.

When you have sanded all of the baseboards, vacuum and wipe with a damp cloth. Now clean the skirting board well from residues of fine dust or grease with a sugar-soap solution and let it dry completely.

Lay newspaper or dusters on the floor to protect against splashes. Place a strip of masking tape along the edge of the carpet or flooring, as close to the baseboard as possible. Now take a piece of cardboard or a plastic carpet protector and tuck it under the baseboard so there is no risk of fresh paint spilling onto the floor surface. If you don’t feel confident cutting the top edge of the baseboard, apply masking tape to the wall as well.

You will find everything you need in our extensive range of accessories.

painting

Start cutting along the top of the bar closest to the wall. Use a small amount of paint at a time to avoid overloading your brush. Brush from right to left, following any grain you like (the opposite is true if you’re left-handed). If you cut an area along the top of the ledge, switch to the bottom of the ledge and do the same. Now you can fill in the middle Slide your piece of cardboard or plastic protection along as you go.

Check for drips and splatters with a damp cloth (water-based paint – use water, oil-based paint – use mineral spirits or turpentine) to wipe it off. Move slowly along the skirting board, taking your time and always being aware of spills and drips.

For a professional finish you need at least two coats. Allow the paint to dry completely, then use a fine sandpaper to lightly go over the baseboard before beginning the second coat. Look for any drips or bumps and be sure to sand them down. Remember to wipe the skirting board with a damp cloth after sanding to remove the fine dust that will prevent the next coat from sticking and spoiling the finish.

Repeat the same process for additional layers. Note that several thin coats give a better finish and provide better protection than one or two thick coats.

Have a question?

We are here to help. Contact us on 033 3320 2369 or info[email protected]

More tips and advice from the paint experts

Ask just about any painting pro and they’ll tell you their craft has a real image problem. After all, everyone thinks they can paint—just look at how quickly the color goes up at these DIY shows. Grab a brush, a roller, and a few gallons of latex and you’re set, right?

Not quite. “The truth is, it’s easy to do things badly,” says Rich O’Neil, chair of a crafts committee within the Painting and Decorating Contractors Association of America. There’s no substitute for learning the right steps, taking the time to get the job done right, and improving your technique over time.

24 pro tips for painting trim and walls

But there are also a few tricks homeowners can learn to make the journey easier. On the following pages we’ve compiled a few dozen of them, culled from decades of accumulated wisdom from professionals working from Seattle to Boston. Put your cues to work, and you’ll notice a difference in your paint job years after the tape and tarps are removed.

Prepare for your paint job

1. Get a color sample for a bigger, better sample

Don’t expect a thumbnail-sized chip of paint from the paint store to give you a feel for how a color will look on the walls. Colors are relative to each other and to the objects around them – like the new leather sofa, for example. Craft your own Megaswatch instead.

Get a sample of paint, apply two coats to a slab of foam core (its white surface acts like primer) at least three feet square, and then set it against the wall. You’ll get a much better feel for how your tint will play out on your furniture and floors. Observe the color at different times of the day and move it around the room to see how it looks in different lighting conditions.

2. How many paint cans do you need?

Before you head to the paint store, grab a tape measure and work out how much area you need to cover—and don’t forget the ceiling. Measure the longest wall and square that number for the ceiling.

For the walls, multiply the length of the longest wall by its height, then multiply that number by four. Double your numbers when you make two coats. Or follow these steps to calculate how much you need; As a rule of thumb, one gallon covers about 400 square feet.

3. Invest in premium paint

Go for the good stuff. Why? Because cheap paint covers very well when wet — the first and, in many cases, last, time many people scrutinize their work — but not as well once dry.

“There’s only room for a gallon of stuff in the can,” says Seattle-based painter Doug Wold, owner of Queen Anne Painting. “When you add cheaper pigment, you take away more expensive resin – and that holds it together.” Apply two coats at a time, leaving 2 to 3 hours between them.

4. No must, no dust

Paint preparation usually involves scraping, sanding – and dust generation. “You might be shocked at how far dust travels and the small areas it can get into,” says Rich O’Neil, owner of Masterwork Painting in Bedford, Massachusetts.

If you don’t want to invest in a spring-loaded bar barrier system like ZipWall’s, install plastic around doors leading to the work area and above furniture. Skip the flimsy stuff: Clear, heavier film (2 to 4 mils) is reusable, easier to fold and unfold, and is less likely to tear. Secure it with painter’s tape.

5. Clean thing

Many of us are so anxious to get the paint off that we don’t take the all-important first step of deep cleaning the walls – especially in the kitchen, where they may be invisibly adorned with grease, oil and food residue.

“If you don’t wipe that down, you could be painting a greased baking sheet,” says Doug Wold. “It won’t stick.” The same goes for the bathroom, the domain of airborne shampoo, hairspray, and cosmetics. Use a degreaser on hard spots; Household cleaners should work elsewhere. Then rinse.

6. How to paint the baseboard with carpet

If you need to paint baseboards over carpet, there are a few ways you can approach it. First, see if you can possibly remove and pull back the rug’s adhesive strip. If that’s not possible, you’ll probably need to paint with everything in place. You can use a carpet protector or paint protector to protect the carpet while painting. Alternatively, a more involved option is to remove, paint, and then reattach the baseboard.

Gather your tools

7. The sign of a good brush

Bristles should be “flagged”: tapered, split and arranged in multiple lengths to form a narrow tip. Synthetic ones – especially a blend of nylon and polyester, like DuPont’s Chinex – hold and release latex paint exceptionally well.

Pro2ProTip: It’s best to reserve natural bristles for oil-based finishes; Water-based paints cause them to swell and lose their shape.

Untreated hardwood handles are easier to grip with sweaty hands, and copper or stainless steel ferrules won’t rust after you wash the brush. You will need at least a 21/4-inch angled blade brush for cutting trim and a 3-inch brush for cutting walls and ceilings.

Buy the best you can find – a good brush generally costs $12 to $15. “People think nothing of paying $10 to go to the movies,” says John Hone, owner of Hone Painting and Restoration in Caldwell, New Jersey. “But they tortured themselves trying to paint with cheap equipment.”

8. Roll size matters

Your local home center or hardware store offers many standard 9-inch wall-painting roll cages and covers, but they’re not the only size to consider.

Small foam rollers work well for door panels and wall coverings, and 14- and even 18-inch rollers hold enough paint so you can cover a lot of area faster — handy if you have a large room with high ceilings to apply paint.

“Manufacturers make bigger rollers, and there are people who buy them,” says Mario Guertin of Chicago, president of Painting in Partnership. “But only the educated.”

9. A better sandpaper

Look for black sandpaper that’s coated with silicon carbide – it doesn’t bond as quickly as the standard brown paper, so it lasts longer.

Foam sanding pads covered in the same fabric allow you to sneak into corners and evenly wrap around rounded trim—plus, they’re reusable. Simply wring them out in the water to clean them, then use them wet to trap more dust.

Which grit to choose? Use a medium grit (100 or 120) when preparing walls that are already in decent shape; a coarser 60 or 80 grit to remove the edges of chipped or peeled paint. Very fine sandpaper (200 or 220 grit) works best for smoothing surfaces between coats of paint.

Painter’s Tape Tips

10. Let it be your guide

Professionals use miles of low-tack blue painter’s tape – primarily to protect surfaces, but also as a guide for cutting into walls or ceilings. “With older homes, flat surfaces can be so uneven that you can’t be sure you’re going to get a sharp line when you sweep over tape,” says Hone. “So just use it as a guide.”

Cut to the edge of the ribbon, but do not cross over. Bring your fully loaded brush to about 2 1/4 inches from the tape, but go very lightly on the last 1/4 inch closest to the tape. “If you do that, there’s a reasonable chance that the paint won’t seep under the edge of the tape,” says Hone.

11. The perfect strip

Like the look of painted stripes? To apply a clear band of paint without running, first lay down a line of blue painter’s tape, then run a small bead of latex caulk across the edge where the two colors meet.

“Wipe the caulk off until you have a very thin layer on the wall,” says Dave Siegner, paint company from Portland, Oregon. “Then peel off the tape and paint to the seal line.” The thin bead seals the dry surface better than any tape. A few hours later, pull off the gasket.

12. Achieve it

If you taped baseboards with painter’s tape, you’ll peel it off the same day you apply the paint — but run a blade along it first, says Siegner. “Sometimes latex wall coatings are rubbery until they’re fully cured, and if they touch your tape, you can pull a piece of paint off the wall when you remove them,” says Siegner.

Score the edge of the tape between the top of the baseboard and the wall with a putty knife held at a 45 degree angle.

Working with a professional

13. Half measures

If your budget is tight — and your painting skills are decent — ask a painting contractor if they’d be willing to talk to you about splitting the job. Brandt Domas, owner of Domas Fine Painting in Denver, Colorado, occasionally forms such partnerships with homeowners.

“We can go in and remove the trim, and then people will paint themselves,” he says. “Or we can go in and do the preparatory repairs or the high areas. We don’t always have to say, ‘It’s all or nothing’.”

14. A little help here?

Professionals always work with “wet edges”. That is, they roll walls before the areas where they have been incised or painted with a brush along the outside edges of the wall have dried.

“It’s best to have one person cut in and another roll the walls directly behind them to avoid ‘streaking’ the edges of a room,” says painting entrepreneur Jim Clark, who has worked on many of TV’s projects This Old House collaborated.

If you can’t lean on a buddy to help and you’re working alone, try to cut in only as much as you can roll while keeping the paint wet.

Flatten the walls

15. Smash the fuzz

There’s nothing more frustrating than seeing little strands of fluff in your freshly painted walls. To keep them at bay, wrap your hand in painter’s tape – sticky side out – and tap off new roller covers to catch any stray fibers.

16. Glob Patrol

Never dip the roller so deeply into the paint that the roller arm gets wet – that’s a recipe for dripping. And at the start of each workday, sift your paint into a clean bucket, even if you left the lid tight overnight. “If you skip this step, you end up with clotted bits of paint — we call them boogers or snot — on the walls,” says Mark Casale of Hingham Painting and Decorating in Massachusetts. And nobody wants that.

17. Give Walls the once-over

To trap sanding dust on the fairing, you probably already know that you run a tack cloth — essentially cheesecloth embedded with sticky resin — over it. But it’s also a good idea on walls. “I wrap a tack cloth over the head of my die sander and run it over the wall surfaces to pick up the dust,” says John Dee, a painting and decorating company based in Concord, Massachusetts.

Most hardware and paint stores carry tack cloths, but if you don’t have one, use a Swiffer or microfiber duster instead. It’s not a bad idea to vacuum walls with a soft brush attachment as well. Just make sure the vacuum has a HEPA filter to prevent the dust from circulating back into the room – and back onto your walls.

Paint your wall and trim it properly

18. Do you paint moldings or walls first?

Many homeowners paint the walls first, then proceed with the cladding while waiting for the first coat of paint to dry. Homeowners should think more strategically, says Rich O’Neil of Masterworks Painting. “Paint all the woodwork first — the first and second layers — and then put on the walls,” says O’Neil.

“If you switch back and forth, your cut lines won’t be as sharp. If you do the woodwork first, you can brush the decorative paint on the walls a bit and then cut across it in one go.”

19. Apply your coats evenly

When applying your layers, don’t just focus on opacity, also think about an even thickness. “Homeowners think professional painters apply color, but they actually go for texture,” says Doug Wold of Queen Anne Painting.

For woodwork, line up your strokes to follow the grain. Avoid “fat edges” — the sticky ledges of paint that can hang over the edges of a door — and rope marks left by overloaded rollers. “If you don’t hold the roller evenly against the wall, it can leave a ridge – just like on a ski slope when snow groomers leave little ridges between their tracks.”

20. Lay down with long vertical strokes

After rolling a section of wall, make a series of long vertical strokes — moving in one direction, left or right — down the length of the wall. This final step, called “laying down,” spreads the wet paint over the surface in a nice, even layer.

21. How to load a brush

Good bristles draw paint up toward the tip of the brush and metal ferrule. To avoid overloading your brush, do not dip the bristles more than halfway into the bucket. Then, gently tap both sides of the bucket with the ends of the bristles to remove excess material. Or do as Mark Casale of Hingham Painting and Decorating does. “Dedicate half of the pot as your ‘wet’ side and use the handle as an imaginary dividing line.” Tap that side of the bucket with one side of the brush, then flip the brush with the side not tapped facing up.

To get the paint on the wall, Casale recommends starting the brush a few inches from where you’re cutting, then moving it to the cut line and pulling straight up until the brush begins to pull. Then drag it back down in a line to align it. Finally, move the brush up with a light stroke to sharpen it and smooth out any brush strokes.

Clean thing

22. Eliminate accidental drops

If you accidentally spill water-based paint on your carpet, do not try to scrub it – the quickest way to embed the paint into the carpet’s fibers. Instead, “keep the area damp and blot it up,” says Tracey Kidd of Kidd Painting in Mesa, Arizona.

“If you spill a lot, blot up as much as you can, wet the area, and call a carpet cleaning company.” If you keep the spot wet, a professional carpet cleaner should be able to wipe up the entire spill.

23. In Praise of the Comb Over

A thoroughly cleaned brush will see you through more renovations than even the strongest marriage could handle. Wash your brush thoroughly with mild soap and warm water immediately after painting. Then, under the running faucet, pull a metal brush comb through the bristles to pull paint away from the core and metal ferrule.

Got stubborn paint on the outside of the brush? Skip wire brushes, which can damage delicate bristles, and grab a nylon scouring pad from the kitchen sink to loosen it up.

24. Clean your brush properly

The pros call a worn brush a “mace,” which is about as accurate as it sounds. “If your brush is worn out or on display, it’s no good,” says Patrick Dallaire of August West and Company in Portland, Oregon.

When professionals clean their brushes, they pat them dry, expel excess moisture by rubbing the handle between their palms, then put them back in their original packaging to preserve their shape. Says Dallaire, “If you keep your grip — what we call a painter’s toolbox — you’re ahead of the game.”

Choice of paint color

Choosing the right white

The most popular paint color in the world could also be the most confusing. One problem is that there are just so many variations in hue. But don’t assume they are all the same. “If I put some shades of white side by side, you could immediately see the differences,” says Ken Charbonneau, owner of Color Marketing Consultants in New York City.

“The first step in choosing a white is deciding whether you want a warm white or a cool white. Warmer whites contain an undertone of yellow—think French vanilla ice cream—or hints of rust, pink, or brown. Cooler white, on the other hand, suggests a touch of blue, green, or gray. Choose one or the other based on the existing tones that are most prevalent in a room.” Look at your brown leather suite or your cherry wood floors or your oriental rug,” he says. “Those things are there, don’t ignore them.”

More often than not, people gravitate towards the warmer shades of white, which far outperform their crispier cousins. However, there are those who prefer a cleaner, more modern white, says Becky Spak, color marketing specialist at Sherwin-Williams (a range of the company’s whites are pictured at right). “Maybe they have a lot of stainless steel or a more modern urban loft look. These are the people who typically look for cleaner, cooler whites.”

Repeat the process with a different color

Once you’ve established the tone family, follow the same rules as you would with any other color: pick two or three shades, hang a series of pattern swatches — making sure to do two coats of each, Spak advises — and watch them throughout the day and night, with the lights on. Then go with your gut feeling; Chances are that one of the choices you make will either soften or complement the realities of the room.

Finally, consider staying ultra strong on the often-overlooked surface above you. A white with little or no undertone or at most a slight gray cast creates a neutral “sky” above and visually raises the ceiling height. “This really is the place for the whitest white of all,” says Charbonneau.

Strip chip decoding

This is what this narrow range of darker to lighter shades of a color is called in the trade. The darkest hue anchors the map, then it is “drained” into lighter versions that contain less color pigment and more pure white.

So how come some colors look redder or bluer or somehow different as the shades get lighter? “It’s really eye candy,” says Carl Minchew, director of color technology at Benjamin Moore. “It’s your perception of the color that changes. The color pigment stays the same.”

Color perception is affected by several factors, including the quality of the light around you (is it yellowish incandescent light or bluer fluorescent light?) and the “simultaneous contrast” factor – what other colors surround those you’re looking at? A white background makes very vivid yellows appear less bright but more intense. On a mahogany surface, the same color looks lighter and more vibrant.

Hues tend to appear more intense on the wall than on a tiny square of paper, so the stripe chip lets you preview what a deeper value might look like. And if you’re nervous about a particular color, it may be safer to go a step lighter – you’ll likely get something in between once it’s up on the wall.

If you’re really at a loss, try this: find a strip where you can live with the darkest colored chip; then you know you’ll love the colors in the middle and at the top.

Tips from the Paint Doctor

Bruce Schneider knows color. He worked as a professional for 12 years before taking the apprenticeship as a Purdy brush maker 17 years ago – and running the Finishing Trades Institute’s apprenticeship program in his spare time.

Here are a few tricks he learned along the way:

Knowing how to varnish MDF can be a useful skill. MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) is a great, inexpensive and versatile material that is used in many homes, but to get the best finish and fit it into your home it needs painting.

Here we unveil the best tips and techniques you need to know to prep and paint MDF to get great results every time.

you will need

colour

chill roll

radiator brush

stamens

sandpaper/hand sander

face mask

preparation

What preparation do I need when painting MDF?

Very little preparation is required on MDF.

The panel is already sanded smooth, but sand lightly with fine sandpaper (120-180 grit) to improve adhesion.

Pay attention to the edges (more on this below) as they are rougher than the faces of the board. MDF raises a lot of dust, so be sure to wear a face mask and open the windows.

(Image credit: Future)

Preparing the cut edges of MDF for painting

There are a few ways to prep MDF edges before applying paint. Which option you use depends on how smooth you want the finish to be.

If the edges are showing, you should keep the edge as smooth as possible. You can fill and rub it with wooden spatula. However, this is time consuming, especially if you have a lot of edges to prepare.

Alternatively, invest in some MDF edging tape. This is also time consuming but gives the best finish. If you don’t see the edges, all you have to do is rub them down so they’re smooth.

(Image credit: Future)

Do I need to apply a primer before painting MDF?

(Image credit: Future)

Yes. While MDF is versatile and easy to work with, it doesn’t like moisture. If something gets into the wood, it can swell and warp.

To make sure this doesn’t happen, you need to use a special primer to seal it. Try ZINSSER B-I-N Primer Sealer (opens in new tab) or Dulux Trade Quick Dry MDF Primer Undercoat (opens in new tab).

What is the best paint for painting MDF?

Once you’ve applied a primer and sealed the MDF, you can use any color you like. However, it is best to avoid emulsion. If you want a strong, durable finish, add a coat of primer and finish with eggshell, satinwood, or gloss, depending on what type of finish you want.

When painting furniture, you can use furniture paint such as Rust-Oleum Satin Furniture Paint (opens in new tab) to achieve the desired finish.

application

How many layers do I have to apply?

MDF is a fairly absorbent material and you usually need to apply at least two coats of primer. You may need to apply a third, especially around the edges.

After the second layer, sand lightly with fine sandpaper – 180 grit is sufficient. Decide if you need a third layer or not. If the paint is stained across the board, you need another coat of paint. Ideally you want to paint both sides of the MDF. But if a page is never seen, it can be abandoned.

After you have finished applying the primer, rubbed it down and wiped it off with a damp cloth – let it dry – you can apply the top coat. The number of coats depends on the color you choose, but to get a consistently good-looking finish, two are likely to be needed. If you apply two coats, remember to sand and wipe lightly between coats to remove dust. The more prep you do, the better the finish.

Should I use a brush or roller when painting MDF?

A roller is the perfect tool for large MDF areas and is ideal for a smoother finish. A small 4 inch roller is the ideal choice for most jobs. A short-pile roller will add a bit of texture, while a foam roller will give a smoother finish. Apply several thin coats until the MDF is covered.

If you paint MDF with details – e.g. B. Furniture – you will need to use a 1 or 2 inch brush to get a good finish. Dab color into detail, then brush out for a thin, even coat. Repeat to finish. Don’t forget to sand lightly between coats.

Do I need to apply a seal?

No it does not. The paint you used should give you the finish you want.

However, if you want to add a final protective layer to protect the paint, you can apply a clear coat. Try Hemway Clear Matt Lacquer (opens in new tab).

This seems like a simple concept but can be really confusing when faced with the choice of paint, paints, brushes or rollers to use, and preparation before painting.

Color really is the icing on the cake for your moldings and a bad job here can undo all the hard installation and design work you put in to get here…. Here’s our advice on some frequently asked questions.

Why do you paint skirting boards?

The reason is mainly for aesthetics, so they blend in with the interior design of the surrounding room decoration and furnishings.

Physically, paint gives your baseboards some protection from moisture absorption and extends their lifespan. When at least all surfaces are pre-primed (ie even the back and bottom that are not visible during installation) you are well-positioned for years of low-maintenance, long-lasting skirting.

When do you paint skirting boards?

After you have laid, filled, prepared and sanded skirting boards.

When do you grind baseboards?

After you have installed and filled in any fixings or finish features of your skirting board. Fine sanding is recommended before applying top coats. A 400 grit should be used to avoid sanding through the sealer on the moldings which can cause differential grit swelling.

Can you paint skirting boards without sanding?

Paint suppliers only guarantee the adhesion of the coating if the surface to be painted has also been professionally prepared, including the sanding process. Not only will your paint “stick” better, you’ll get a smoother, more pleasing result.

What color can skirting boards be painted? Do they have to be white?

Skirting boards were not white in the past. Georgian era walls, baseboards and architrave would have been painted the same color which really suits a space and looks beautiful.

There is no clear reason why baseboards tend to be white. They really pop against a wall, especially a colored one, and having all your baseboards white creates a beautiful setting and theme that runs throughout the house.

Don’t be afraid to go old school and paint them the same color as your walls! This can help remove dividing lines and give the appearance of more height, opening up a smaller space.

You can also paint them darker than your walls for greater contrast and a edgier, modern look.

What color to use for skirting boards?

A water/acrylic or oil/enamel based paint is most commonly used on baseboards.

Waterborne/acrylic topcoats can be applied directly and require no additional primer or sealer. If you want to apply another primer, we recommend Dulux Precision Maximum Strength Adhesive Primer.

Oil based topcoats/enamel must have a suitable primer. We recommend the application of Dulux One Step Alkyd Primer/Undercoat or Zinsser Cover Stain Primer Sealer before applying top coats.

Do not use paints intended for absorbent surfaces such as B. Plasterboard sealing.

Coats of paint should always be applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Need to choose gloss color for moldings?

Typically, a gloss (very glossy) or semi-gloss (slightly glossy) paint is used on baseboards.

A high gloss finish will highlight any surface imperfections and therefore requires much more preparation to fill and sand all mounting holes, wood features including grain lift, cracks, small cracks and surface variations inherent in natural wood.

Our recommendation for wood skirting boards, whether for stain, clear coat or painting, is to choose a semi-gloss, matte gloss or matte top coat finish on the skirting boards.

If you value a high gloss finish, we recommend using MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) material for your skirting boards instead of natural wood. MDF is an engineered material like chipboard (does not have natural wood characteristics) and therefore requires minimal surface preparation to achieve a smooth surface before further layers are applied.

Can you paint with emulsion?

Some of you may be thinking, “What is emulsion?” The definition of emulsion is the coming together of two liquids that don’t easily mix well. Water and oil, which is pretty much what emulsion paint is. The paint is water based with vinyl or acrylic resin added for durability.

Emulsion paint is thick and easy to apply, moisture resistant (ideal for kitchen and bathroom use), dries quickly, is less toxic, will not dry, crack or fade in sunlight, and is less likely to attract mold. Of course, getting all these benefits means higher costs and more damage to your back pocket, and if we’re talking about moldings that are usually gloss or semi-gloss, emulsion paint usually offers a matte finish.

Can you now use this color on trim? The answer is yes, but you need to prepare the baseboard as described in this article for a positive result.

Sanding is a VERY important step that cannot be overlooked. If your baseboards are made of MDF it is important not to scratch through the pre-primer as it is waterproof and the result will be grain swelling in the scratches which can look unsightly. It is best to use fine sandpaper (e.g. 400 grit).

If you choose not to sand (which is not the way we prepare skirting boards) we recommend applying Dulux Precision Max Adhesion as the first coat down.

How do you apply the color?

It is recommended to apply the layers with a brush.

If you intend to spray coatings you will need to test a small section of the bar before coating the entire product.

How many layers do you need to apply?

Typically apply one more primer to pre-primed baseboards and two top coats depending on the paint coverage and finish you want to achieve.

It is not recommended to water down or thin further coats as this may cause color integrity issues (peeling, cracking, blistering) and will not provide smooth, even coverage.

You should always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and judge the opacity after each coat has completely dried.

How can you prevent your baseboards from yellowing?

“Yellowing” is the term most commonly used to describe the discoloration effect that naturally occurs with aging when an alkyd (oil based) enamel paint is used indoors. It is most noticeable in situations where natural lighting is poor, for example baseboards, sliding doors, door jambs, behind furniture or in closets.

The “yellowing” phenomenon is an industry-wide technology trait that is widespread among all oil-based paint manufacturers and is not limited to a single product or brand.

how do you fix it Unfortunately, the “yellowing” effect is irreversible and the color can often appear irregular or patchy.

To minimize the ‘yellowing’ effect during the drying process, all conventional waterborne undercoats and topcoats should be applied first and up to two weeks (longer in cold weather) before beginning any enamel work (or vice versa).

Good ventilation with fans during application and drying time for all waterborne paints allows ammonia vapors (if any) to escape more quickly.

As an alternative to traditional water-based paints, low-VOC water-based paints that typically do not contain ammonia can be used.

The only effective way to overcome the “yellowing” problem, once it has occurred, is to allow the enamel paint to cure and sand lightly to remove the gloss before reapplying a non-yellowing, water-based coating system over the alkyd paint is painted.

How can you prevent your paint from yellowing?

To prevent this problem, it is recommended to avoid the simultaneous application of white or light enamel or alkyd paints in the presence of water-based paints, as this can negatively and permanently affect the color of the alkyd enamel.

Allow as much natural light as possible into the painting area both during and after application to enamels. Spaces that remain closed until occupancy are very prone to premature “yellowing” due to lack of ventilation and lack of natural light.

When a completely non-yellowing enamel finish is required, a high quality water-based enamel paint should be used.

Unlike oil-based paints, most water-based acrylic latex paints will not “yellow” over time.