Rebar Cages For Concrete Piers? Best 173 Answer

Strength and stability are benefits of a strong foundation. The weight of your home rests on its foundation, and structural integrity can be maintained by a solid foundation that stays intact and in place. A strong foundation is the best way to prevent damage to your home and protect your family from adverse weather conditions. Ground movement, excessive groundwater, voids, sinkholes, soil expansion and/or contraction, improper grading, drainage problems, and natural disasters such as floods, earthquakes, tornadoes, and hurricanes can cause the foundation of your home to settle, sink, or shift position. This can severely affect the structural integrity of your family home.

There are several types of foundations, with certain types being more common than others in certain areas of the country. For example, in coastal cities, pier and beam foundations are more common because high water levels could inundate a home. Concrete slab foundations are common in other parts of the country, and concrete piers can be used to add stability to a foundation that needs repair or additional support.

What is a pier foundation?

There are two types of pier foundations; Concrete or masonry piers and drilled caissons. The size and shape of the brick or concrete piers used will depend on the nature of the surrounding soil and the depth of the bed. Concrete pier foundations are typically built 1 to 1.5 feet off the ground. This gap is necessary to prevent moisture damage to wooden structures that would occur if the structure was resting directly on the ground. Piers can be square, rectangular, or circular, and the diameter of the piers is usually 6, 8, 10, or 16 inches. The depth of the pier foundation is below freezing depth, usually about 5 to 6 feet.

A pier foundation has several advantages, including:

Necessary materials are readily available

Less material and labor are required

No elaborate excavation if necessary

Saves money and time

Diverse design options

Utilities are easy to install and easy to access due to the clearance between the structure and the ground

Excavation can be done with a shovel

Increased airflow reduces heating costs by circulating air under the structure

Due to the above-ground elevation, flood damage to soils can be avoided

Causes minimal disruption to the ground environment

Foundation inspection is easier

Utility workers can easily get into the space between the structure and the ground to investigate plumbing or electrical problems

No ground vibrations normally associated with driven piles

The load-bearing capacity can be increased by under-drilling

The site can easily be restored to its natural state at the end of the building’s useful life

When should concrete piers be used to reinforce my foundation?

If your home’s foundation needs help, concrete piers are an extremely effective foundation repair method for homes with damaged or sagging foundations. A hole about a foot in diameter is drilled to a depth of 12 to 20 feet under your home. This depth ensures that the bottom of the pier is anchored to stable ground, preventing further settlement or subsidence. Once the hole is drilled, the concrete is poured and then left to cure for up to seven days. Steel bars can be used to reinforce the structure of the concrete for added strength and stability. Once the concrete has set, hydraulic jacks will raise your home to the correct height and either concrete or steel spacers will be installed to bridge the gap between the top of the piers and the foundation, creating a level surface on which to build your home can rest . Depending on the type of damage your foundation has sustained, the repair may require installing one or more concrete piers.

Why we?

At Advanced Foundation Repair, we offer Dallas homeowners thorough inspections to pinpoint foundation problems before they become bigger problems. Our easy payment and financing options, along with our transferrable lifetime warranties, give you the peace of mind that you’re getting the best foundation repair possible. Our advanced Pro-Lift technology professionally corrects your foundation problems. If you think your home’s foundation is in trouble, you can count on Advanced Foundation Repair in Dallas for the best foundation repair and outstanding customer service.

What happens if we use too much rebar in the concrete?

Reinforced concrete significantly improves the strength and durability of buildings and other structures. Plates can be wider, thinner and cheaper. Due to the widespread use of reinforced concrete, we can now build structures faster and more complex than ever before.

Concrete is one of the most commonly used building materials around the world. It is durable, low maintenance, fire resistant and easy to use. Rebar is mainly used to improve the tensile strength of concrete. When concrete is subjected to a certain force, it breaks – quickly. Steel is used to make rebar because it is very strong and expands and contracts at almost the same rate as concrete in hot and cold weather. Any structural concrete used in walls should definitely contain reinforcing bars.

Concrete’s alkalinity helps prevent rust, and iron’s high tensile strength offers a winning combination as they have similar rates of thermal expansion. The two materials just stick together really well. When determining how much rebar to use in your project, the relationship between the two materials comes into play. The most common percentage of steel to concrete section is between 3% and 5%, although this varies by application.

Excessive reinforcement occurs when there is too much shrinkage or honeycombing. Cracking occurs when the reinforcement puts too much stress on the drying concrete, preventing it from absorbing the shrinkage. In contrast, honeycomb formation occurs during the forming process if the concrete is not poured between the rebar gaps, resulting in air pockets in the structure. There are numerous problems that result from using excessive gain. The following are some of the most commonly encountered:

Binding wire and other debris on the outskirts. Without steel corrosion, there are cracks that reflect the main reinforcing bars. Shrinkage occurs when your aggregate contains either too much or too little water. The amount of moisture in the mix affects how quickly the concrete dries. Due to the dense packing of the rebar, there are honeycombs around the steel, allowing fine material to pass alone.

No, rebar is not required for a 4″ concrete slab on the level. A 4 inch thick slab cast onto the bottom and in constant contact with it will float without the need for rebar. Rebar is recommended for concrete 5-6 inches thick. The thicker the plate, the more durable it is.

The only time rebar is required in concrete work is when you are pouring objects into the concrete. These objects add weight to the slab and require reinforcement to carry the additional load.

Reinforcing bars are used as reinforcement in concrete structures such as bridges, buildings and parking garages. It provides tensile strength to resist tearing from internal forces (such as tension due to bearing loads or compression due to vertical loading). Rebars also provide compressive strength to resist crushing from external forces (eg, compression due to vehicle weights or side loading). Without reinforcement, most concrete structures could only support their own weight or slightly higher loads. The addition of steel reinforcement greatly increases the strength of the concrete, allowing it to support heavier loads than expected.

The type of rebar used depends on how much strength is needed in the concrete structure. If the concrete slab does not support any additional load other than its own weight, an ordinary reinforcing bar will do.

Does every concrete slab need reinforcement?

Not every specific project requires the use of reinforcing bars. The usual rule of thumb is that when pouring concrete more than 5 inches deep, you should generally add some rebar to support the entire structure. Concrete is heavy and forms its own internal pressure as it hardens; Without reinforcement, a thin plate can bend or break under its own weight.

Rebar comes in a variety of styles: square, round, hot rolled, galvanized and stainless steel. Each type has different uses. For example, round bars are most commonly used for general applications such as scaffolding construction. Square bars are better suited for high-traffic areas such as door frames and window wells. Hot rolled rods are very flexible and can be used for tricky jobs like attaching string lights. Galvanized rebar is coated with zinc to protect wood from corrosion. Stainless steel rebar is non-corrosive and ideal for environments where aluminum or copper would contaminate concrete.

The choice of the type of reinforcement to use depends on the loading requirements of the structure and user preference. For example, if you are only making a concrete slab for decking, using standard rebar (round or square) will suffice. However, if you are planning to build a concrete house frame, you will need to include rebar in the mix.

How much reinforcement do you need for concrete foundations?

When the concrete is poured, the rebar can slip out of position, resulting in inadequate coverage. Generally, rebar in residential construction requires a concrete cover or separation from the ground of 3 inches when placed against dirt and 1 1/2 inches when poured against formwork. The amount needed will depend on the size of the rod, but a length of about 18 inches is a good starting point.

Rebar is used to provide structural strength in concrete buildings. When concrete is mixed and pumped into a mold, it begins to harden immediately, requiring more reinforcement to build a strong building. Concrete without reinforcement may be strong enough for some applications, but it is not recommended for structures that will receive heavy loads or for people who want to avoid using steel in their homes.

The two main types of rebar are metal wire rope and straight bar. Both have several advantages over wood as a reinforcement material for concrete. First, they are stronger than wood fiber per unit weight. Second, they don’t rot or rot like wood. Third, they don’t chip like wood when exposed during the curing process. Finally, because they conduct heat better than wood, they can be used in places where heat will cause wood to rot.

If you went through a concrete structure and removed all the steel, you would still have a strong building.

Do foundations need reinforcement?

The Use of Reinforcing Bars in Concrete Deck Foundations Simple concrete deck foundations without reinforcement are acceptable under the International Residential Code minimum building guidelines. Reinforcing bars can be used for foundations with high bearing surfaces or unstable ground to prevent cracking. The depth of the foundation should be equal to the height of the deck plus the thickness of the concrete.

Reinforcement is required for concrete foundations if the bottom of the foundation is at least 5% below the surface of the earth. The requirement applies even when the code does not specify a minimum depth for foundations, as well as when they are made of cinder blocks, stone or earth.

For example, if the ground is hard (a solid layer of compacted soil with no grass or roots) and the water table is 20 inches deep, a rebar reinforced foot would be required to meet building codes. Without the reinforcement, the underside of the foundation could settle over time and cause cracks in the concrete, leading to flooding in your home. Reinforcing bars are available in different sizes and shapes; A bin can have feet like 2x4s or 2x6s, while tubes are usually more flexible. The length of the pole depends on how deep you want the foundation to be. Short pieces of rebar can be tied together into a single longer piece.

Not all surfaces require concrete reinforcement, but adding it makes concrete stronger and more resistant to large cracks. Concrete surfaces that are expected to support heavy trucks or machinery require rebar reinforcement. Reinforcing steel has been used for over 150 years to give concrete the support it needs to withstand tensile forces.

Concrete is incredibly strong in terms of compression, but it doesn’t have much tensile strength. Concrete reinforcement is used here. Without rebar, concrete is very prone to cracking due to tensile forces. Rebar helps prevent cracks from getting wider by largely preventing cracked plates from moving apart.

What is Rebar?

Rebar is an abbreviation for rebar, also known as rebar. Whatever you call it, it is a steel bar or braid of steel wires shaped to create tension in both reinforced concrete and masonry structures. Rebars help maintain a building’s strength and compression by keeping it in a compressed state.

Rebars are manufactured from a variety of hot rolled steel materials. Most are made from new steel billets, but materials can also be crafted from scrap steel or even old railroad tracks. Rebars are marked with an identification symbol that indicates where they were manufactured. Another number you will find on concrete rebar is the rebar yield strength, which is either 60 or 75 or metric 420 or 520.

Do you need rebar reinforcement?

Not all projects require the use of concrete rebar, but adding rebar will significantly reduce the number of cracks that occur in concrete surfaces over time. Concrete surfaces required to support large trucks, heavy machinery, or continuous traffic require rebar reinforcement. On the other hand, if your driveway is only intended to support the family minivan, you may not need rebar reinforcement.

There is also the option for welded wire mesh which is processed into galvanized panels which provide additional reinforcement. This is a common solution for everyday residential driveways that are not regularly used by heavy trucks. Mesh is thinner than rebar, but also less expensive.

Turnbull Masonry experts are here to help you decide whether or not you need concrete reinforcement. Contact us today!

Put reinforcement in place

Rebar is recommended for concrete 5-6 inches deep. The type and purpose of the concrete affects the need for reinforcement. The rebar needs to be placed in the center or slightly above the center of the concrete slab – so it should be of a certain thickness for best results.

“Chairs” is a term used to define supports that are placed under rebar grids to support them. Reinforcement grids are placed upright at equal intervals. The poles are held together with metal wire at each crossing. A minimum concrete cover must be maintained across the entire slab while the edges must be evenly spaced from all sides of the slab.

What are deformed bars?

Most rebar is equipped with severe burrs known as “deformed bars”. The purpose of these ridges is to bind the concrete reinforcement. While there are no specifications for deformed bar patterns, there are specifications for spacing and bump height. Deformed bars are required in many situations, although plain bars are used when the rebar is required to slide, such as in B. on highway pavement or segmented bridges.

5 different types of rebar

1. Welded wire mesh

Welded wire mesh consists of a combination of steel wires arranged at right angles and “electrically welded at all crossings of the steel wires”. This type of rebar is commonly used for slabs on the ground on compacted soil.

2. Stretchable Metal

Expandable metal, also known as wire mesh reinforcement, is basically a sheet of metal arranged in parallel lines and then expanded into diamond or square shapes. This technique can be used when thick plaster is required or to reinforce lightweight concrete installations.

3. Stainless steel reinforcing bars

Stainless steel can be used to make a type of rebar that is resistant to galvanic corrosion. This is a good option in areas prone to corrosion issues as well as areas where repairs are difficult or expensive.

4. Sheet metal reinforcement bars

This type of rebar is commonly used for floor slabs, stairs and roofs.

5. Epoxy coated rebar

This is a more expensive reinforcement that is usually reserved for areas with high salinity or where corrosion is a major problem.

Why continue your frustration with rebar when there are many other alternatives. That being said, some aren’t nearly as good as others. And some are additives rather than substitutes.

It’s time to put your reinforcement to rest. yes it is popular Yes, it has its advantages. But most concrete applications where rebar is commonly used can be significantly improved with other products.

As early as the 18th century, steel bars were found to increase the tensile strength of concrete, allowing structures to be built taller and wider than ever before. Eureka! But it didn’t take long for the construction industry to realize that rebar is imperfect, and while many designers and contractors remain reluctant to use rebar, they are looking for alternatives that better reinforce concrete.

Concrete reinforcement made of stainless steel

Stainless steel rebar is often touted as a replacement for standard steel rebar. Its material resists corrosion, reduces maintenance costs and is placed similarly to its predecessor, but the obvious downside is rarely mentioned – like reinforced steel rebar, stainless steel rebar does not reinforce every part of the concrete and therefore leaves large gaps where concrete has little tensile strength. This deficiency still leads to premature concrete degradation.

Engineered bamboo reinforcement

Bamboo is the savior of any naturist who desires a sustainable, resilient structure that uses abundant materials. (It’s the fastest growing plant on earth.) Unfortunately, while bamboo has these qualities, bamboo can rot when it comes into contact with water, meaning it really can’t be used alone in most standard concrete projects in North America .

Glass fiber reinforced polymer (GFRP) rebars.

This is a promising solution, although its advantages are outweighed by the higher price. (About 25% more than standard rebar.) It’s 75% lighter than steel, doesn’t corrode and is quite durable. Its high elasticity reduces the number of applications it can be used, but in the applications it has been tested in, its results have been promising.

plastic fiber

The idea behind plastic fibers is great – use lightweight, inexpensive and easy-to-manufacture parts from readily available materials to create cheap concrete reinforcement. Unfortunately, that’s where the benefits stop. If you’ve ever worked with fiber, you’re aware of the frustrating workability issues. In addition, the distribution of the fibers is not always accurate. Perhaps the biggest disadvantage, however, is that plastic “stretches” before it begins to work, which allows cracks to form and grow.

Fiber reinforcement companies often do not have the in-house technical support or approved third-party publications that allow for easy, fast, and effective integration of micro-reinforcement into their projects. On-premises and virtual connections are often outside their remit as many simply sell the fiber and do not provide advice beyond product sales.

Helix Micro Rebar Concrete Reinforcement

This is 1″ twisted 100% steel rebar that is 600% stiffer than concrete. This ensures that virtually every inch of concrete doesn’t stand a chance of cracking. The innovative reinforcement is packed with benefits: it’s made in America, can be used in a wide variety of applications, requires lower doses than fiber, reduces cracking, is easy to process, and reduces labor costs.

Helix Micro Rebar is also more than just a product. Every purchase includes technical support not only during the product, but for the life of the building.

Lots of options. A decision.

Although every concrete application is unique and some alternative rebar products have potential, there are few high-quality substitutes for standard steel rebar. Helix Micro Rebar has the benefits that support most steps in the process while providing a superior solution to a problem that has plagued the construction industry for generations.

For more information on Helix Micro Rebar, continue exploring this site or contact our Project Managers for a personal chat about our concrete reinforcement. This is a better way to build!

103 shares share

Pen

Creating concrete foundations for any structure can be intimidating for the average DIYer. After all, mixing and pouring concrete is big, messy work, and if you mess it up, it’s pretty difficult to just clean up and redo. One of the big questions people ask before pouring is how to insert rebar into concrete foundations.

The use of rebar in concrete foundations makes them stronger and less resistant to displacement due to temperature and humidity. Concrete is the building material of choice for foundations due to its compressive strength. However, it is not strong when subjected to forces that pull – such as B. Earthmoving. Reinforced concrete helps negate the effects of these forces.

There are some projects that you use concrete for that simply don’t require rebar, such as: B. erecting a fence post or filling out a form for a basketball net. Foundations are one case where you want reinforcement as foundations support a structure that you want to ensure it remains as strong as possible for the life of that structure.

In this article, we’ll go through everything you need to know about reinforcing concrete with rebar. We’ll address the types of rebar you can install in your concrete, as well as methods, best practices, and other accessories you may find useful when it comes time to pour your concrete foundations.

What is Rebar?

Rebar is short for “reinforcing bar”. Rebar is most commonly found as a steel bar or mesh that is inserted into concrete to increase its tensile strength. This steel is given the name “reinforcement” when used in conjunction with concrete to reduce cracking and movement.

Types of reinforcing bars

There are many different types of rebar and you can find many different shapes and forms to accommodate different types of concrete shapes. Rebars in the form of hooks or stirrups are widely used in various types of foundations. Steel mesh is another version of rebar that resembles a fence and reinforces concrete floors.

Aside from the shape of the rebar, there are many different versions that you can buy with different coatings. First, you can purchase either plain or “deformed” rebar. Smooth is not ideal for concrete reinforcement as it does not bond to the material as well and can “slip”. Most of the rebar you will see have dimples or ribs, which is ideal for concrete.

You will also find rebars in different coatings. Epoxy coated rebar is green and highly corrosion resistant. However, the epoxy coating itself is not strong and scratches easily, reducing its effectiveness.

There are also galvanized rebars and stainless steel rebars. Galvanized is extremely durable and stainless steel is even more durable, although both cost significantly more than standard rebar, with stainless steel being the most expensive.

Finally, there are different sizes of rebar. Size is determined by the diameter of the bar, and rebar size is numbered in ⅛ inch increments. Therefore, #2 rebar is ⅛” + ⅛” = ¼” in diameter. #3 rebar is ⅜” in diameter, #4 is ½” in diameter, and so on.

You will find that #3, #4, and #5 size rebar are most commonly found at home improvement stores and are used in foundations for houses and other domestic structures.

Inserting rebar into a concrete foundation means you can reduce the risk of the concrete being pushed and pulled apart – i.e. cracking – by soil pressure. Knowing this, it’s generally a good idea to use rebar in foundations for any structure. However, in many cases this is not necessary.

Reinforced concrete does not eliminate cracking. However, it will reduce cracking and movement of the entire foundation. Properly placed, it can withstand lateral forces that would otherwise cause an unreinforced base to crack and allow moisture ingress.

Use rebar in concrete when pouring a foundation for a home or garage, and in concrete slabs that support a home, shed, garage, or other outbuilding you want to remain structurally sound. Reinforcing bars in concrete piles that support decks and other similar structures are also a good idea.

According to the IRC, only foundations in certain seismic areas are required to have reinforcing bars in the foundation. If you live in these areas, expect to put vertical rebar – usually #4 – at least 48 inches down the center of the entire foundation. Horizontal rebar runs at the top and bottom of the foundation and masonry or concrete wall, including #4 with a few exceptions.

What is an earthquake area? Simply put, it is an area that is more likely to experience ground movement from seismic activity. In the US, much of the western half of the country is in a seismic zone, along with some locations in the Midwest and some on the East Coast.

Level slabs with downturned foundations require a #4 horizontal bar running at least 3 inches from the bottom and top of the foundation, or just a #5 horizontal bar in the middle of the downturned foundations. #3 rebar with hooked ends is used for vertical placement spaced at least 48 inches apart on center.

If your foundation has a concrete or masonry wall, you will need a #4 horizontal bar within 12″ of the top of the wall and a #4 bar no closer than 3″ from the bottom of the foundation. This bar is hooked in with the hooked end protruding into the bottom of the foot. #4 Poles should be placed vertically at 48″ on center or less and extend at least 18″ into the wall.

Is reinforcement needed in deck piers?

Reinforcement is only required in deck piers in some jurisdictions. The usual minimum diameter for deck piers is 12 inches, but only a few locations require a #3 rebar – or 10 mm in Canada – in the center of the pier, no closer than 1½ inches from the surface at either end.

Usually, the further north you go, the more likely it is that local codes will dictate that you need rebar in your deck pier. For example, many Canadian communities require rebar in deck piers, but only a little south. In New York they do not require reinforcement in deck piers.

Rebars cannot be placed on the edge – close to the concrete surface. Otherwise, the steel is at risk of corrosion, leading to failure of the concrete as it disintegrates and causes premature cracking.

Foundations that are cast below ground level, with masonry walls overlying them, typically have two courses of #4 horizontal rebar, one 3 inches from the top and the other 3 inches from the bottom. Closer to the edge is not allowed. The use of plastic or concrete spacers is permitted to keep the reinforcement off the ground during casting.

If there is a poured concrete or masonry wall on the foundation, you will need #3 or larger vertical rebar spaced at least 48 inches apart on center. These bars have hooks on the underside that extend laterally to the edge of the foundation. They must protrude at least 18 inches from the foundation, although raising it higher is good practice.

Poured concrete or masonry walls also require horizontal rebar, at least #4, not less than 12 inches from the top of the wall. Where rebars cross, they are tied off with 16 gauge annealed steel wire, meaning they have been heated to make them easier to handle.

A foundation reinforcement diagram is useful when pouring a foundation and the IRC code contains many useful images in Section 403.1.3 that relate to foundation reinforcement in more detail. Remember that minimal rebar usage is just that – minimal – and you’ll find diagrams using much more rebar than the IRC says, which is common since many home foundations are overbuilt.

For most home and garage foundations, #4 rebar – or ½ inch diameter – is used. Larger is also acceptable, although adjustments may be needed to ensure adequate coverage is still achieved. If you live in Canada then this is approximately #13 – 13mm rebar.

Deck foundations requiring reinforcement require #3 or 10mm rebar. Typically this is run vertically through the center of the foundation. Because these foundations are directly exposed to the earth at all times, it is important to ensure that the vertical rebar is at least 3 inches from the top and 3 inches from the bottom of the foundation.

rebar spacing

For residential foundation use, the spacing will depend on the type of foundation you have. For foundations that are poured ahead of the slab, two #4 horizontal rebars are required—one 3 inches from the top and the other 3 inches from the bottom. You will also need vertical rebar hooks that protrude at least 6 inches into the foundation and at least 18 inches every 48 inches or less.

If foundations are being poured at the same time as the slab, you must first ensure that the perimeter of the “slab” is actually a foundation – at least 12 inches deep. For this type of foundation, called monolithic, you only need horizontal gradients like the ones above.

Depending on your wall type you may need vertical rebar unless you are going to put wood on top e.g. B. a slab on a level for a shed.

Below ground foundations that have masonry (log) walls on top require #4 rebars with hooks spaced vertically no more than 48 inches apart on center. They need to protrude at least 6 inches into the foundation — the hook end — and protrude at least 14 inches up into the masonry walls.

For foundations with narrower walls at the top, e.g. For example, poured concrete that is 5 inches thick or less would reduce the above spacing for vertical rebar to a maximum of 24 inches on center. The thinner the wall, the more reinforcement you need to add to your foundation that connects to the walls.

Reinforcement calculator: How much reinforcement do I need?

If you’re not sure how much rebar you need, a rebar calculator can come in handy. The version linked here is useful as it has a chart giving the dimensions for your rebar spacing, although it doesn’t offer a price entry so you know your prices at your local supplier and need to do that calculation yourself.

Let’s say you want a 10×10 shed to hold some potentially very heavy items. You’re casting a 6″ thick slab so your rebar is 3″ from each edge. If you want rebar in a grid pattern spaced about 12 inches apart, the first thing to consider is that each piece of rebar must be 3 inches from all edges.

If that’s the case, each piece needs to be 9′ 6″ long – subtract 3″ from each end. If you start at one end, 3 inches from the end, you’ll find that you need 11 pieces going one way and 11 pieces going the other way – all the same length. Rebar comes in 20ft pieces, so you can buy 11 pieces and cut each to size with a circular saw.

How to tie rebar

Rebar in a grid pattern and horizontal rebar crossing with a vertical piece must be tied together with 16 gauge steel wire. Any store that sells rebar sells rebar ties. For the average do-it-yourselfer, a spool of rebar tie should do the trick, and it’s very cheap.

Tying rebars that intersect in a grid pattern:

Use a saddle binding. Hold one end of the wire and place it over your first piece of rebar – hold it so both ends are the same length. Loop both ends under the vertical piece of rebar at the bottom on both sides.

Lastly, loop both ends over the original piece on the other side of the vertical rebar and twist them with pliers.

Once you have determined the amount of rebar you need and their placement, installation is fairly easy. You will need some special tools and an extra hand as tying all the intersections of a rebar grid can be quite a hassle.

Tongs

Spacers: plastic or precast concrete

Circular saw with carbide-tipped metal blade or bolt cutters

The most important step is determining your foundation type. Straight slabs for sheds will probably suffice with a conventional 3½ inch thick slab and no additional depth for foundations. If you plan on parking a vintage car or storing bags of concrete, you may opt for a slab with folded foundations or just a thicker slab.

Either way, this is the most critical part of your job, and when it comes to a house, if you’ve made a mistake with your foundation plans, an engineer and town worker will alter your plans accordingly.

Plan your materials

Calculate your foundation materials using the rebar calculator linked above and a concrete calculator. You can take your time setting the rebar because once you’ve poured concrete, there’s no more fixing your rebar grid. Check each connection and the distance to the ground to ensure there is 3 inches between your concrete edge and the nearest rebar.

Dig and create your forms

Create your concrete foundation forms. A minimum depth of 12 inches should be used for most structures with isolated or dumped foundations, such as B. a garage or a house. At this point you will also place your rebar spacers to ensure the rebar is up and off the ground.

Many foundations require horizontal rebar at 3 inches from the bottom. You will need plastic spacers to support this continuous rebar around your foundation.

Place your rebar

Install your rebar. In the next step we will tie everything together, but to place your rebar you just need to make sure you have the correct spacing from all angles. Check your local regulations to ensure you have mandated all required poles, vertical and horizontal, and are using hooks and saddles where required.

With Sonotubes, place only one rebar unless you want to oversize. In this case you will need a spacer underneath to keep the bottom 3 inches off the ground and a spacer sitting on top to keep the bar centered. A piece of wood attached to something outside the pipe will do.

Tie rebar together

Make sure each crossing is properly tied with a saddle or figure-8 style tie. Use your hands to check each area of ​​rebar to ensure there is little to no movement. Once they are tied there should be virtually no movement of the rebar. Concrete pours can loosen loose materials, so you should tighten each sleeper extremely tight.

pouring concrete

Once it’s time to pour, your rebar job is effectively done. The main consideration when pouring concrete over rebar is making sure you pour it all at once. The gradual pouring can cause cracks in the concrete where air pockets can form, leading to premature cracking and rendering the rebar unusable.

How much does reinforcement cost?

A 20-foot piece of #4 rebar — ½ inch in diameter — costs about or just over $15 at the time of writing. Large retailers sell smaller pieces in 10 foot and even 2 foot lengths for smaller projects, but a 20 foot length is most economical. A #5 piece costs about $20 for a 20 foot length.

Do I need rebar in sonotubes?

Yes, you need rebar in sonotubes. It’s easy to install with standoffs and very cheap. The extra strength and stability it adds to your deck or other outbuilding is well worth the extra time and effort to install.

Not all municipalities require rebars in sonotubes. The further north you go, like in Canada for example, the more likely they are to call for rebar in the pipes. On the other hand, in the state of New York, just a little further south, they do not require reinforcement in sonotubes.

In any case, your sonotubes should be at least 12 inches in diameter with at least one piece of #3 rebar in the middle. You can add rebars as you like. However, you should be careful as you need to keep the rebar away from the edges as corrosion can easily occur as sonotubes are extremely exposed to the elements.

When inserting vertical rebar into a sonotube, use a plastic spacer in the center of the sonotube at the bottom. Place the sonotube over the plastic spacer and then place the rebar on the spacer. Once you’re done you can use rebar wire and punch small holes through the sonotube at the top to keep the rebar centered.

Back up everything before watering. You can’t hold the rebar in place, and post-cast insertion will result in improper placement. Wire it in place, secure the rebar, and feel confident with a solid Sonotube cast.

Conclusion

Remember that rebar placement is highly dependent on the type of foundation you are using. Be sure to refer to the building code in your area, which will give you minimum and maximum values ​​as a guide.

Also remember that over and under construction of a foundation is not a good idea. Too much rebar can prevent the concrete from setting and compacting properly. Too little reinforcement can lead to structural failure. Stick to the code for best results.

Handyman’s World is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program that allows websites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com.

Have you ever wondered how builders and construction workers create perfect concrete columns? For a long time, this process required the use of wooden molds, which took a long time to assemble and dismantle. Luckily, in the modern age of construction, there is a more effective and efficient way to make a column—a sonotube.

A sonotube takes the labor-intensive process of creating a columnar shape and simplifies it. All you have to do is position, fill and remove. With such ease of use, it’s no wonder these tubes are used by DIYers and professional contractors alike.

This guide will help you better understand these “magic tubes”, including what they are used for and the best times to use them. This guide also answers some of your constant questions about what sonotubes are capable of.

What are sonotubes and what sizes do they come in?

Let’s start with the basics so you can begin to fully understand sonotubes.

First and foremost, “Sonotube” is a brand name for a specific brand of large, reinforced cardboard tubes. These pipes are intended for placement in a pre-dug hole, after which they are filled with concrete. After giving the concrete time to set, the cardboard tube can be cut off in minutes.

Because of the ease with which they can be set up and taken down, Sonotubes (and similar products from other brands) have become popular on construction sites around the world.

Because of their widespread use, sonotubes come in a wide variety of sizes. These sizes are based on pipe diameter, which ranges from 8 to 56 inches. Sonotubes today also come in a variety of lengths, including units up to 18 feet overall.

Sonotubes vs. No Sonotubes: Why Use Them?

Sonotubes were developed to solve a decades-old problem associated with the manufacture of concrete columns. Traditionally, this process was very labor intensive and required the installation of special molds. These molds then had to be removed after the column had dried, further slowing down the construction process.

Sonotubes are designed to reduce both sources of delay by making these disposable shapes easy to place and remove.

As previously mentioned, sonotubes are also made from some type of reinforced cardboard. This makes each tube relatively light, making it safe for anyone (including DIYers) to work with. At the same time, this cardboard-based construction allows each tube to be relatively affordable, especially when compared to traditional shapes.

As such, they are accessible to almost all users who want to create a perfect concrete column.

Using Sonotubes: A step-by-step guide

Assuming you’ve decided to use a sonotube, below is a step-by-step guide on how to do so.

Step 1: Check measurements and depth

Before you start working with a sonotube, you need to be sure that your installation site is fully prepared for placement and use.

In all likelihood, your concrete column will be partially buried underground once it is completed. Therefore, you need to start this process by making sure your hole is both deep and wide enough. At the same time, you need to make sure the bottom of the hole is completely level to avoid problems with your column later.

As you dig your hole, you may have noticed some noticeable moisture seeping into the hole. This is likely groundwater that was trapped in the surrounding soil. This can make specifying a column more complicated.

If you can’t break down that moisture properly, you can’t use a sonotube properly. Instead, you may need to use an alternate method of forming a pillar.

Step 2: Place the tube and secure it

Once you’ve made sure your hole is ready to use, you can begin placing your sonotube. This can be done by lifting and placing your chosen pipe in the hole so it is centered relative to each wall.

At this point, you may find that your hole is not deep, wide, or level enough. If this is the case, start making modifications so that it is properly sized for the tube you have chosen.

After the adjustments are made, your sonotube should stand evenly on its own. However, if you’re using a soil base, your pipe should sit evenly on it.

In theory, your sonotube should stay in place by itself. However, it may need to add some wooden supports to keep it from moving throughout the process.

Step 3: Concreting and filling

Once your sonotube is in place and secured, you can start making the concrete that you will fill the tube with. The type and mix ratio of concrete you use in this situation depends on the type of column you are making and the environment it will be in.

In any case, your chosen mix should be pliable enough to be easily lifted with a shovel and dropped into the sonotube.

Once you have reached an ideal consistency for your concrete you can start shoveling it into the tube.

Be careful when doing this as the force of concreting can sometimes cause the pipe to shift or tilt. Continue filling the tube to the brim (assuming you cut your tube to the desired height). Tap the concrete as you do this to force out unwanted air bubbles.

Step 4: Insert rebar and finish

Once you’ve filled about three quarters of your tube, you should stop and put in whatever rebar your job requires. This should be done while the concrete is still completely liquid. Exact placement of rebars will vary from job to job, although equal spacing between rebars should be used with each placement plan.

Ideally, your rebar will also be pre-cut to match the depth of your hole.

Once your rebar is in place you can fill the rest of the pipe. Be sure to keep tapping the concrete to dislodge any air bubbles.

Step 5: Level and let dry

Once you have completely filled your sonotube, you should remove its cap evenly. This can be done with any piece of flat, level material, e.g. B. a piece of cardboard or wood. You can even use your hand as long as you wash off any excess concrete from that hand immediately.

Once your column is level, you need to let it sit to dry.

The drying times for your concrete will depend on how much water was added to your mix. Also, any drying agents added to the mix will help it set faster.

Step 6: Remove Cardboard Tube

After you have completely dried your concrete column (which can take more than 24 hours) you can start removing the cardboard tube. This is usually done with an electric saw, which should be well balanced to keep the blade from touching the concrete.

This step requires the most experience and care to be performed safely. Therefore, it is often worth consulting an experienced contractor before attempting this step on your own.

Sonotube alternatives: wooden crates and screw stacks

As previously discussed, there are a few alternatives to using sonotubes.

The first of these is also the traditional method of making concrete columns, that is, using a wooden mold. These forms are constructed around the point of erection and are labor intensive to execute.

This method is therefore typically only used in special applications today.

Screw piles are another alternative that is far more common on construction sites. These are primarily used as a method of creating ground anchors, but can also be used to create the base of a pillar.

However, this method is less user-friendly, so DIY enthusiasts who wish to use it should consult a specialist before attempting to use it.

frequently asked Questions

If you didn’t find the answer to your Sonotubes question above, read on. Below I answer some of the most frequently asked questions.

What size sonotubes should I use for 4x4s, 6x6s and deck foundations?

As a rule of thumb, you should always use a sonotube with a diameter three times the desired pin width. So if you plan on installing a 4×4 post, a 12” Sonotube would be appropriate.

Meanwhile, a 6×6 post would justify an 18-inch sonotube.

The same rule of thumb applies to deck foundations. Just multiply the width of your post by three and you should have a good idea of ​​how big a tube you need.

What is the loading capacity of a sonotube?

According to the manufacturer of Sonotube, their products do not have a listed load capacity.

As such, they should by no means be used to carry weights. To this end, a sonotube does not add strength to a column and should be removed before a column is brought to bear.

How much concrete do I need to fill a sonotube?

The exact amounts of concrete for your column installation may vary slightly depending on how many additives go into your concrete mix. That being said, you can do a simple calculation for the volume of the cylindrical shape of your sonotube to determine how much raw concrete you need to fill.

To determine the volume of your sonotube, first measure its radius. This can be done by measuring the distance from the center of the pipe to one of its edges. Then multiply that number by itself (aka “squaring”).

Finally, multiply this resulting number by the height of the tube. This will give you a solid measurement of the internal volume of your sonotube.

Suppose you are using a 10 foot sonotube with a 3 inch radius. After putting this through the formula “volume of a cylinder = radius squared x height” you will find that it has a volume of 1.963 square feet.

To make it easy, you could get and use 2 square feet of concrete with this sonotube.

How can I insert a rebar into a sonotube?

To be clear, rebar cannot and should not be inserted into the cardboard structure of a sonotube.

However, rebar can be added to the wet concrete found inside a sonotube set. This operation is fairly simple and can be done when the pipe is three-quarters full of concrete.

Simply push the rebar into the wet concrete until it meets resistance at the base of the column.

summary

Sonotubes are a great tool on the construction site, especially when it comes to pouring concrete into a column. These cardboard tubes are lightweight and affordable, making them a cost effective method of making a structurally sound column and a great alternative to the traditional wood concrete forms.

As the steps above show, they’re not difficult to use either – even for a DIY enthusiast.

Pillars and foundations are among the most important parts of a building’s foundation.

Drilled deep into the ground beneath the foundation, the piers will support the weight of the building for decades and withstand normal use and the often destructive settlement of the foundation.

Two of the most popular materials for piers are concrete and steel.

But how do they compare?

Is one better than the other?

Read on for our concrete vs steel pier comparison. We will help you decide once and for all what is best for your commercial building.

Installation (time and process)

As an entrepreneur, it goes without saying that you have your finger on the pulse of the times when it comes to your company’s commercial construction projects.

Whether it’s pouring a foundation, erecting concrete walls, or drilling piers into a freshly graded lot, you’re likely to have the same two questions:

How long it will take? How does it look like?

We’ll explain each process below (and we’ll try not to use too many confusing construction terms).

concrete pillar

The terms “pillars” and “piles” are often used interchangeably when referring to underground concrete foundation supports.

In this section we refer only to pillars.

In the drilled concrete method, the crew uses an auger — a type of heavy machinery resembling a massive corkscrew — to drill a vertical hole called a “foot” under the foundation.

The exact depth of this shaft depends on a few factors, but none is more important than the local climate. A general rule of thumb is to drill at least a foot past the “frost line,” the depth at which the ground will no longer freeze in winter.

That number can vary from 100 inches in notoriously cold states like Alaska to as little as 4 inches in Louisiana and South Carolina.

The drill operator removes soil and rock from the drilled caisson in small increments until the hole reaches the ideal depth (typically 12-15 feet) and diameter (12-66 inches).

The rig then inserts steel rebar into the hole to increase the tensile strength of the pier. Next, the crew pours concrete into the shaft and allows it to cure to near full strength, which can take as little as a week.

Shortly after the concrete has been poured and the rebar placed, the crew can fill in the gaps around the pier with ‘backfill’, e.g. B. with the previously removed soil or several centimeters of gravel.

This step reinforces the freshly cast pillar to prevent future displacement. Some piers also have a steel post base positioned in the middle,

steel pillar

The installation process for steel piers is generally much faster and less labor intensive. It all starts with digging small holes, either by hand (for smaller shops and buildings) or with a smaller variant of an auger bit.

When repairing a foundation problem, the crew installs makeshift brackets along the foundation. Next, tubular steel segments are driven vertically into the ground using a hydraulic jack.

This process continues until the first steel tube settles into a more solid subsurface beneath the earth’s surface.

The team then either transfers the weight of the structure to the newly laid piers or allows the slab foundation to rest on the piers in its current position before filling in the gaps around the pipes.

Steel pillars shorten this process to a few days for larger commercial buildings. The concrete alternative may take several weeks.

Alternative installation methods

In addition to the more traditional pier installation methods, each version has an alternative that may perform better on different construction projects.

What are the different types of pier foundations in each category?

concrete pillar

The most common alternative to traditional drilled piers are called “pressed piles”. What makes this method different are the steps that follow the hole digging process.

Instead of pouring freshly mixed concrete directly into the hole, the work team pushes 12-inch high precast concrete cylinders into the hole.

A hydraulic tool then pushes each segment down the hole until it reaches the point of rejection – or where it can go no further. Compared to the drilled concrete approach, piles require less time to install and fewer bricklayers.

For buildings with elevation beams that need foundation repairs, this route is a safer option. The crew digs holes just below the leveling board, positions a post cap on the posts, and then levels the slab.

steel pillar

The construction industry is modernizing from year to year. With this, spiral piers are fast becoming the future of steel piers and piles.

Unlike classic steel pillars, where segmented tubes are hydraulically compressed, the Helix version looks like a large, helical screw.

A high-torque machine turns these piers into the ground and drives the blades into the ground for a secure fit. The site crew then adds steel segments at the top of the pier until they reach the load-bearing ground.

This steel pier alternative is generally best suited for lighter structures built on weak or unstable ground.

durability

Next comes the durability factor. Once a construction crew has driven these piers deep into the ground, how well will they handle the elements and weight of the foundation and the structure above?

concrete pillar

We “rate” the compressive strength of concrete in terms of PSI – or “pounds per square inch”.

In layman’s terms, 3,000 PSI concrete could support the load of an American bison on a single square inch of surface.

Concrete piers typically support 3,000-4,000 PSI.

This load-bearing capacity can easily redistribute the weight of a small structure to its piers without breaking the foundation.

But to further strengthen the concrete, contractors recommend rebars (rebars). These steel bars add tensile strength to the concrete to prevent cracking and excessive displacement when the ground settles.

It’s not an exact science, however, and concrete piers sometimes fail.

steel pillar

Steel tops the list of the strongest metals on earth, making it an obvious choice for stabilizing heavy or multi-story buildings on loose ground.

Steel piers are significantly stronger than concrete, rated at 55,000 to 60,000 PSI. This is equivalent to the weight of 20 giraffes stacked on a single square inch of steel.

Steel piers are essentially solid metal tubes that are pushed deep into the earth to raise a building’s sinking foundation back into place. Durable steel tubing resists cracking and chipping in any direction for a lasting solution.

But that doesn’t answer the question in the back of your mind:

What happens if it inevitably rains or snows?

Left untreated, the acidity in rain and minerals in the soil will corrode steel pillars and wear down their structural integrity. However, galvanized steel adds a protective molten zinc coating to the metal that resists corrosion.

Galvanized steel piers are excellent for large buildings with deep floors and wetter areas like the Pacific Northwest.

longevity

Another major concern when awarding a multi-million dollar construction project is longevity.

How long can you expect these foundation beams to last before they need to be replaced or repaired?

Or do they last forever?

concrete pillar

The 1-4 week break between pouring and curing seems like an eternity.

This fact holds true whether you install them before construction or decades later to correct a sinking foundation.

In general, concrete piers can easily last over 75 years.

Of course, external factors can shorten their lifespan. Here are some of those factors:

Poor drainage and accumulation of water in the area

Don’t bury them in a firmer, more stable layer of soil

Lay pillars at slight angles

Insufficient or weak status

Do not use rebar or allow the concrete to cure at least 80%

For the good and safety of the entire structure, it is better to hire a more experienced subcontractor using quality concrete and reliable methods than to save money for a cut-throat crew.

steel pillar

Steel piers are a relatively new invention compared to traditional concrete piers. But as technology advances, so does their life expectancy. Many steel piers installed 50-75 years ago are still performing optimally.

Meanwhile, non-galvanized steel piers may need to be replaced or repaired sooner due to corrosion in areas with mineral-rich soils and heavy rain.

Planning a construction project in the Colorado area? We offer commercial construction services and may be able to help.

depth

By “depth” we mean how deep an excavation crew can drill or push these piers into the ground beneath the foundation.

Remember: piers stabilize foundations cast on unstable or settling ground.

The added structural integrity comes from the steel or concrete piers being driven deep enough into the ground to meet a supporting rock. The depth of this layer obviously depends on your geographic area!

But how deep can we drill or press concrete and steel pillars?

concrete pillar

Drilled concrete pillars can typically penetrate 10 to 15 feet of ground. Unfortunately, this depth will not long support a large commercial building such as a factory or distribution center built on deep ground.

However, it is popular for lighter structures (such as pole stalls or riding arenas) built on flat ground. This method may not reach a firm layer of earth that can support the concrete piers and building.

The more advanced hydraulic piling method rams concrete piers into the ground with three times the force of the structure above – up to 40 feet deep.

steel pillar

Similar to concrete piles, the steel pier line drives pipes into the ground with a hydraulic pump until it detects a firm base.

This unit can accommodate steel piers to a depth of 75 feet, ideal for larger commercial buildings that sit on deep ground. They are also durable enough to support ten times the weight of traditional concrete piers.

building size and type

It’s safe to say that what works in the residential world doesn’t always work in the commercial world and vice versa. The length, width, weight, and height of a building determine what type of pier is most appropriate.

concrete pillar

While not matching the tensile strength of steel piers, concrete piers can replace steel piers in most cases with no appreciable difference.

However, they are a far better choice for smaller structures that weigh less, including sheds, shops, or small storage facilities.

steel pillar

The durability, depth and longevity of steel piers make them the best choice for larger buildings. This includes multi-storey office buildings, skyscrapers, data centers, storage facilities and residential buildings.

See also: How Concrete Buildings Are Made

pricing

Our last – but probably most important – comparison is the price factor.

How much should your company expect to spend on piers or foundations to reinforce the foundation of your building?

The final price depends on the size of the concrete slab, the spacing of the foundations and the number of piers needed to provide adequate support.

concrete pillar

Concrete piers cost between $500 and $1,000 per pier and require less manual labor when hydraulically driven into the ground rather than drilled.

Based on the upfront cost of materials and labor, concrete pillars are the more budget-friendly option for companies with limited funds and small shops.

steel pillar

Stainless steel piers cost about twice as much as concrete piers, averaging $700 to $1,600 per pier.

Steel is almost always worth the extra cost of commercial buildings viewed as a long-term investment.

In fact, in many cases this is the only option.

Steel is the most logical long-term solution for buildings standing on 70+ feet of unstable ground, or for taller, heavier structures (e.g. warehouses or skyscrapers).

Further Reading: Is Steel Stronger Than Concrete? Which is the best?

Conclusion

Between the two popular pier options, steel is tougher than concrete for the company’s construction budget.

But it has several advantages:

more reliable

Supports heavier structures

Easier to install

Versatile regardless of geographic region

Piers are also a much more complex concept once we move away from the commercial fringes of building.

For example, you can build piers for decks and sheds yourself, or raise the foundation of a home by more than 12 inches with a concrete pier foundation.

Ultimately, it depends on your situation and needs. If you are planning a commercial construction project in the Colorado area and would like some insight into the best pier option for you, please feel free to contact us at 303-337-6982 or [email protected].

Since the base of a patio is the most invisible part of construction, they can be the most overlooked part, but if you get this wrong you could run into problems later in the life of your patio, so put heavy weight on your feet before they are set and hard can weaken your deck.

If you are using a concrete that contains a quick setting additive you will need to wait at least a sunny day, if you are using a standard concrete foundation mix I would of course recommend waiting at least seven days and a maximum of 28 days That is to say if the conditions for curing and hardening of the concrete are correct.

When building foundations or footings and to ensure solid footing for a permanent structure such as a deck, always use a structural strength concrete mix when getting ready mixed concrete shipped and tell your supplier what you are using it for and he will send him the right mix for your job.

If you want to mix your own concrete on site, follow the instructions on the cement bag. One thing I would recommend is not to get the mix too wet as this will weaken the concrete.

This is what civil engineering wrote about concrete properties and curing time.

Concrete is a man-made conglomerate stone consisting essentially of Portland cement, water and aggregate. When first mixed, the water and cement form a paste that surrounds each individual piece of aggregate to form a plastic mixture. A chemical reaction called hydration takes place between water and cement, and concrete typically goes from a plastic to a solid state in about 2 hours.

Thereafter, the concrete continues to gain strength as it hardens. A typical strength growth curve is shown in Figure 1. Industry has adopted the 28-day strength as a point of reference, and specifications often refer to pressure tests of concrete cylinders that are crushed 28 days after their manufacture.

During the first week to 10 days of curing, it is important that the concrete not be allowed to freeze or dry out, either of which would greatly affect the strength development of the concrete. In theory, concrete will permanently gain strength in a damp environment, but in practice about 90% of its strength is gained in the first 28 days.

Or you could build the deck before making and pouring your concrete foundations

By building the deck with temporary posts to hold the frame while you build it.

After you have finished building the deck the permanent posts can be installed, if there are any posts under the deck all of these post holes should be marked and dug before building the deck.

Sticking the permanent posts in the hole and cementing them into something I would not recommend as water will get in between the concrete foundation and the wooden post and stay there, eventually rotting the post.

An advantage of building this way is that the foundations are the right height and you can place the entire concrete part of the foundations below ground level, which looks a lot nicer.

By using a metal bracket, and preferably a galvanized steel bracket, that is inserted into the concrete foundation and bolted to the post so that the post is above the finished floor, the life of your patio will be greatly extended. I would also recommend using all galvanized hardware and screws to build your deck.

Before building your foundations, check with your local building department what the foundation requirements are for your area. They should be able to advise you on frost depth requirements and the shape and size of foundations you will need for your patio. This is different for each area and climate.

It is important to check local building codes for building requirements in your area; These requirements include the minimum diameter and depth of foundations.

Foundations must normally extend below the frost line to prevent shifting during freeze-thaw cycles.

How Soil Type Affects Your Foundations

For example, heavy clay soils hold a lot more water than sandy soils and have a lot more problems from freezing, when water freezes the rate of expansion is about 10 percent and exerts a large pressure of about 50,000 pounds per square inch, so a great deal of pressure more than enough, to raise your deck and cause a lot of trouble.

Even after the ground has thawed, your deck may not return to its original height due to rocks or debris falling into the hole under the foundations.

The reason the foundations are raised out of the ground, even if you were to make them deeper than the frost line, are things called ice lenses, which are horizontal pockets of moisture or water that get caught on the rough surfaces of the foundation and during freezing can lift foundation up.

This is how you build a solid, frost-proof base and a stable attachment for your terrace

I would use smooth sided cardboard tubes to hold the concrete in the hole and hold it between 6 and 12 inches above the bottom of the hole so the concrete is wider at the bottom of the hole than at the top and forms an anchor of sorts for the foundation.

The foot holes should be flared at the bottom to create a foot that is wider at the bottom than at the top. This helps with frost buoyancy in cold areas and provides a larger footprint for greater stability.

Deflect water away from foundations by piling up dirt around them after the entire site has been backfilled and leveled.

Mix it yourself or order ready-mixed concrete

That’s entirely up to you, but I have a few tips for you, if you’re going to be pouring more than a few foundations then I’d recommend buying pre-mixed concrete, not only will it save you the trouble of pouring all the concrete by hand or to be mixed in a cement mixer, but generally pre-mixed concrete is better and you can specify the exact type of concrete for your site and use.

Additives can be added to make the concrete set faster and harder. Ask your supplier.

But you need to be organized and enlist some willing volunteers to help, especially if your deck is in the backyard with limited or no access for a concrete truck. In this case you will need some wheelbarrows to get the concrete into the holes. It’s probably better to pour the concrete into the round tubes you attached with shovels, as concrete is heavy and it’s fairly easy to loosen or shift the tubes and misalign the foundations.

Most ready mix suppliers will charge you extra if it takes too long to get the mix off the truck, so pouring the concrete quickly and carefully is essential.

When filling the pipes, fill them about halfway and then use a piece of rebar to consolidate the concrete to eliminate any air pockets or voids.

Fill the rest of the pipe until slightly overfilled, then reuse the rebar to strengthen the concrete. You can also tap the outside of the pipe to firm it up and fill it with more concrete, and angle the surface outward to help the water drain.

Now it’s time to insert and align the brackets that will hold the posts when you put in the foundations before building the deck.

If, on the other hand, you insert the permanent posts after the ceiling has been built, the brackets are already attached to the posts and centered in the formwork tube and it is just a matter of pouring the concrete around you.

Safety and protection when working with concrete

Concrete contains scale and can be irritating to skin, so I like to wear eye protection and waterproof gloves when using concrete.

Some waterproof shoes are a good idea too and make sure you wash anything that gets concrete on it before it has time to dry A brush to scrub all your tools and gear is a good idea.

Here is a link to help you calculate the amount of concrete to order. Remember, a little more is better than not enough.

https://www.decks.com/calculators/concrete

The essential tools you need.

You can rent posthole excavators

A spirit level to get everything level

Digging tools such as spades etc.

Use a hacksaw or utility knife to cut the formwork tubes, making sure to place the uncut end on top for a cleaner job

Wheelbarrows to move this concrete and remember it’s heavy. So test how much you need to pack in the cart before attempting to move it

Good luck and I hope all your projects go smoothly.