Rili Shrimp And Cherry Shrimp Interbreed? 102 Most Correct Answers

When you are just getting started with shrimp keeping, it can be difficult to figure out which species to start with. There are so many styles! So many colors, sizes and genres to choose from. Some are difficult to care for while others are very easy to care for. Luckily, The Shrimp Farm can help.

Read on to discover our picks of the 4 best starter shrimp!

Red cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi var. Red)

Red cherry shrimp are probably the most popular dwarf shrimp among both novice and experienced shrimp keepers. And for a good reason! This red Neocaridina variety is not picky about water values, very easy to grow and quite decorative. Colors can vary from a light pink to a deep crimson. With smart selective breeding, you can easily improve colony color intensity.

Keep your red cherry shrimp in a fully flushed tank of at least 19 liters capacity. If you are interested in growing your cherries, a single species shrimp only setup is recommended. However, these shrimp are also well suited to peaceful community aquariums as they reproduce very quickly and do not cause any harm to the occasional loss of the population. Offer your red cherries plenty of hiding places, especially in community aquariums, and feed them high-quality shrimp food.

Take a look at the complete Red Cherry Shrimp care guide to learn more.

Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata)

Amano shrimp are named after the late famous aquascaper Takashi Amano, who first introduced them to the aquarium hobby on a large scale. Although colorless and not overly visually exciting, these shrimp are among the most popular because they are fairly hardy, have a big appetite for algae, and make a great cleaning crew.

Amanos are slightly larger than dwarf shrimp but are still peaceful. The only downside is that they are almost impossible to breed in the home aquarium: they hatch as larvae that go through a brackish stage where they need a very specific amount of salt in their water. Then they have to be put back into the fresh water at exactly the right time.

Keep your Amano shrimp in a heated aquarium with cycles of at least 10 gallons (38 liters). As with all shrimp, provide sufficient hiding places in the form of plants, stones and driftwood. If there is enough seaweed for the shrimp, you won’t need to supplement their diet as much, but make sure you always have some shrimp food on hand in case the seaweed runs out.

Take a look at the complete Amano shrimp care guide to learn more.

Blue dream shrimp (Neocaridina davidi var. Blue)

Blue Dream shrimp are a blue variety of Neocaridina davidi: basically a blue version of the Red Cherry mentioned above. Their care requirements are the same, meaning they’re great if you want a colorful but no-fuss shrimp. Like all aquarium shrimp, Blue Dreams are good cleaning crews who keep the aquarium clean by eating leftover food and algae. They can be combined with small, peaceful fish species (provided there is enough hiding place) but will show themselves more and breed better in a pure inverted attitude with snails and other shrimp.

By the way: There are many other Neocaridina davidi varieties. All low maintenance and a great breeding project for beginners. Go for Blue Velvets if you’re looking for a lighter blue or maybe a bright yellow! Just do not mix these shrimp in one aquarium as they will breed and the offspring will eventually revert to a brownish wild color in most cases.

Ghost Shrimp (Palaemonetes sp.)

Ghost shrimp are often sold as cheap food for larger species of fish, but they can also make an interesting permanent addition to the aquarium. They’re on this list because they’re incredibly hardy and tolerate poor water conditions much better than most other shrimp. A great option if you’re just starting out and worried about screwing something up!

“Ghost Shrimp” is a collective term for various shrimp species of the genus Palaemonetes. Be sure to buy from a reputable seller to avoid ending up with a giant aggressive river shrimp or brackish water variety. The shrimp farm sells Palaemonetes paludosus, which won’t get too big and should work fine in most cases.

Keep your ghost shrimp in a cycle tank of at least about 10 gallons. A peaceful community should work just fine (although ghost shrimp can be a bit more aggressive than dwarf shrimp). Ghost shrimp larvae are tiny and very vulnerable. So if you’re interested in breeding and don’t want the young to be eaten, a single-species setup is probably a better idea.

Take a look at the ghost shrimp care guide to learn more.

Freshwater shrimp are also becoming an extremely popular choice for beginners. These small invertebrates make a colorful and interesting addition to many home aquariums. However, any temptation to keep and mix different colored shrimp should be treated with extreme caution.

So what is the main problem?

Mixing shrimp of different colors will definitely turn a beautiful color into a wild type color. Basically, your shrimp will lose their color. Unfortunately, this is one of the main problems that shrimp farmers face.

As such, it is highly recommended that you stick to a specific species (and color) that you wish to keep and breed.

What are wild type shrimp?

Did you know that most shrimp species do not have bright and beautiful colors in nature? Do you know why?

The answer is actually pretty simple.

Bright colors aren’t effective when you need to hide most of the time. Each shrimp with vibrant colors will shine like a beacon for any predator fish. It can be particularly dangerous during moulting when they are weak and slow.

Evolution is about passing the genome on to the next generation. Shrimp that are most effective at hiding from predators live the longest and have a better chance of reproducing.

Because shrimp are at the bottom of the food chain, they have evolved inconspicuous colors. It helps them avoid unwanted attention by mimicking their surroundings.

What do wild type shrimp look like?

In general, wild-type shrimp are semi-transparent to brown or greenish-brown. They don’t have a specific pattern.

In fact, wild-type shrimp can be quite attractive in their own right.

Why is mixing shrimp of different colors bad?

As I said earlier, mixing different colored shrimp is not a good idea. Even if the results don’t appear immediately, they will definitely come.

Initially or in a few generations you will get some dodgy, unstable and strange colors. After this, your shrimp will start to “lose” their color and revert to their wild color.

What happens if I mix different colored shrimp?

According to the basic laws of inheritance, the next generation of shrimp inherits one genetic allele from each parent. Different gene combinations result in different dominant/recessive ratios in the offspring.

In simple terms, wild-type colors are dominant (stronger) and all other colors are recessive (weaker).

Because of this, the dominant color in shrimp will be more and more pronounced.

Note: if we look at crystal red shrimp and crystal black shrimp for example, we see that black color is dominant and red color is recessive.

Can I change the wild type color to the normal color?

Yes, it’s possible… It’s also one of the reasons that makes dwarf shrimp exceptional pets.

However, I have to say it right at the start, it will also take a lot of dedicated work!

To do this, you need to start culling (or selectively breeding) shrimp. Culling is the process of removing or separating shrimp from a breeding stock based on a specific trait.

This is done to enhance and exaggerate desirable traits or to remove and diminish undesirable traits.

When we talk about genes, no one can guarantee you how much time it will take. Even if most dwarf shrimp species reproduce quickly, you have to be prepared for months or even years of hard work.

For this reason, an absolute majority of hobbyists should never mix different colored shrimp. Unless they’re doing it as a personal challenge, to show off their skills, or out of curiosity.

For more information, see my article “Culling Shrimp. Selective Breeding”.

Can you keep different types of shrimp together?

The shrimp taxonomy is not fully understood. Every now and then we see some changes in the classification. It also adds some problems for our hobby.

Some articles state that you can keep different types of shrimp together. Well, that’s not true. DO NOT keep different species of the same genus of freshwater shrimp.

You can keep some species together, for example:

These species will not interbreed or interbreed with other Caridina species. However, be very careful with other species and do your research beforehand.

The same applies in principle to Neocaridina species. In many cases they can just be a color variation of the same species.

For example, the most popular Neocaridina shrimp (Red Cherry Shrimp) has many pattern and color morphs:

cherry shrimp,

sakura shrimp,

crimson shrimp,

Painted fiery red shrimp

Blood mary shrimp

Kanoko shrimp

neon yellow shrimp,

blue velvet shrimp,

sapphire shrimp,

blue diamond shrimp,

black diamond shrimp,

black rose shrimp,

orange sakura shrimp,

green jade shrimp,

rili shrimp prawns,

snowball shrimp etc.

All of these species belong to the genus Neocaridina and can interbreed.

Another problem is that sometimes it can be really hard to “tell the difference between Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp”.

Finally

Keeping and breeding dwarf shrimp is a really interesting and rewarding experience.

In nature, most species of shrimp do not have bright and beautiful colors.

Almost all shrimps with beautiful coloring are artificially bred.

Selective breeding (culling) is possible. And probably the most important factor is patience.

(Good) Different genera do not interbreed and can safely be kept together. So you can mix a Neocaridina with a Caridina species.

(Bad) shrimp taxonomy changes from time to time. So we cannot be absolutely sure that this or that species will not be moved to another genus.

Do your research before purchasing a new species of shrimp, as mixing different colored shrimp will definitely change their color to a wild-type variation.

Related articles:

FAQ

Which shrimp do not crossbreed?

Neocaridina, Caridina, Palaemonetes and Atyopsys species do not interbreed at the genus level. Therefore, they can be safely accommodated together. For example, red cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi), crystal red shrimp (Caridina cantonensis), ghost shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus), and bamboo shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis) have different genera, so they don’t interbreed.

Which shrimp can breed together?

In general, many different species of shrimp can interbreed within the same genus and produce healthy and fertile offspring. They are often referred to as intraspecific hybrids, crossbreeds or mixed breed shrimp.

What is a hybrid shrimp?

Mischling is a German word for “crossbreed shrimp”. It is an intraspecific hybrid between crystal shrimp and Taiwan bee shrimp. These hybrids are hardier and cheaper than their parents. In addition, they have a high chance of producing good quality Taiwan Bee Shrimp.

Can you mix blue and red shrimp?

It depends on the genus and species of shrimp. Shrimp of the same genus and species are likely to interbreed. So you need to know which species they belong to.

Are there shrimp species within the same genus that do not interbreed?

Yes, there are some types of shrimp that do not interbreed. For example, species of the genus Caridina such as Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata), cardinal shrimp (Caridina dennerli), red-nosed shrimp (Caridina gracilirostris), Malawa shrimp (Caridina pareparensis, Caridina parvidentata) are not crossed.

If you are planning to set up a shrimp hatchery, you may be wondering how quickly shrimp breed.

The breeding process can take three to five months depending on the species of shrimp you have and the overall environment of the tank. And the good news is that there are a lot of things you can do to ensure your shrimp breed.

In this guide I explain what is required for a successful shrimp farming process and what you can do to increase the possibilities of your shrimp farming. I will also answer some frequently asked questions on this topic.

Do shrimp breed easily?

It’s fairly easy to farm shrimp, but if you’re looking to set up multiple shrimp farming tanks (for hobby or profit), there are a few things to keep in mind.

You can improve breeding opportunities by making sure your shrimp live in a healthy environment, and there are many things you can do to ensure the baby shrimp survive.

It goes without saying that your shrimp should have a healthy, balanced diet and a clean tank at all times.

In terms of diet, your shrimp should be fed a consistent choice of protein and nutrient rich food.

Also, make sure there are no sudden or drastic changes in water parameters.

For the water parameters, make sure that the pH of the water is between 6.0 and 8.0.

Also, the water temperature should be between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Shrimp can live just fine at room temperature, but only if they stay the same. If the temperature in your home is subject to change, consider purchasing a heater for the tank.

Your tank should also contain some live plants as this will not only maintain your shrimp’s overall health but will also give them a place to hide.

Female shrimp usually mate right after molting, which refers to the biological process of molting. And when shrimp molt, what they most need is a place to hide, because that’s when they feel most vulnerable.

By taking all of these steps to create a healthy, natural environment for your shrimp, you set the stage for the breeding process.

How fast do shrimp breed?

As previously mentioned, the entire reproductive cycle can take three to five months.

It usually occurs after the female shrimp has gone through the molting process. When shrimp molt, they lose their hard shell and seek a safe place in the tank to hide until they grow back.

During this hiding phase, the female shrimp release pheromones into the water to attract the males.

Unlike fish, which normally lay their eggs at the bottom of the tank, female shrimp carry their eggs in their stomachs for a total of 30 days.

In addition, since the eggs are attached to the female, she is constantly fanning them out with her tail, giving the eggs oxygen.

It usually takes between 25 and 35 days for the eggs to hatch. A female shrimp can carry between 21 and 51 eggs at a time.

A shrimp egg is typically 1.19 millimeters long, and the larger the mother, the larger the eggs.

After the eggs hatch, it usually takes about two months for the baby shrimp to reach the juvenile stage. Until they reach this stage, it is impossible to tell the difference between male and female shrimp.

Then it takes another two weeks until they become adults. Overall, it takes shrimp four to six months to reach sexual maturity.

How Often Do Shrimp Breed?

While the entire incubation process usually takes between three and five months, female shrimp can breed again just a few days after hatching the eggs. However, this depends on many factors.

When the eggs hatch, it is important to ensure that there are no pests or other types of predators in the shrimp tank. It is therefore generally advisable to keep shrimp in a separate tank and fish in another.

Another thing to keep an eye on is the tank’s filter. Because baby shrimp are tiny, they can easily be sucked into the filter. For this reason I recommend buying a sponge filter for your shrimp tank as it is 100% safe.

Speaking of safety, your baby shrimp should have somewhere to hide. This is especially important until they reach maturity.

Moss is always a good option. Alternatively, you can always use rocks and driftwood if you want to avoid adding live plants to your aquarium.

Because baby shrimp spend most of their time on the bottom of the tank, they will eat the biofilm that accumulates on the surface of nearby rocks, plants, or other objects.

If you want to avoid overpopulation, do not use nano tanks for your shrimp. Since it’s generally recommended to have a gallon of water per shrimp, it’s not a good idea to keep them in aquariums that can only hold up to 10 gallons of water.

This is especially important if you want to take shrimp farming seriously. If possible, get a tank that can hold up to 50 gallons of water for your shrimp.

in summary

Now that you know how long it takes for shrimp to hatch, there are many things you can do to make sure everything goes smoothly.

For example, it’s best to only put a few plants in your shrimp tank. If there is too much greenery, you may not even notice that your aquarium is filled with baby shrimp.

As long as you provide your shrimp with a healthy environment and feed them regularly, you have nothing to worry about. Just make sure your tank is big enough to hold them all!

As I continue to research cherry shrimp in preparation for my new tank, one thing is obvious.

There is a lot of information about cherry shrimp!

Hobbyists and breeders often post on several forums, asking questions, posting guides, and offering advice for those of us who are just entering the world of shrimp keeping.

The people with experience are happy to share their knowledge of all aspects of the hobby and sometimes even share stories of crazy things that happened in their tanks.

Well, sometimes the amateurs in the room are the ones with the best stories, or at least the weirdest.

I’ve come across more than one forum post where people who have just kept shrimp for the first time have an alarming problem:

Cannibalism!

I know right?

It’s not a very common thing to come across, but there has been more than one post like this where the owners were as shocked to write it as I was to read it.

I was wondering: if this happens between adult cherry shrimp, would cherry shrimp attack and eat their young or even their eggs under the same circumstances?

Cherry shrimp generally do not eat their own eggs while still attached to the female. If the eggs come loose for some reason, it’s not uncommon for the shrimp to eat them.

Do cherry shrimp eat their own eggs?

When it comes to whether or not cherry shrimp eat their own eggs, a distinction really needs to be made.

A cherry shrimp will not eat eggs that have fed well and are still attached to the mother shrimp.

Normally, eggs that are still viable — not dying or rotting and fertilized — remain attached to the female shrimp and continue to develop into tiny babies.

Sometimes a female shrimp’s eggs or berries just don’t get fertilized.

This may be because there are no breeding-age males around, or it may be due to water parameters, or one of many other reasons.

These unfertilized eggs simply will not develop into baby shrimp in their current state.

Eventually the shrimp will realize that the eggs are not fertilized and will decide to cut back on their losses and try again.

This means that she will drop her egg clumps and no shrimp will develop from them.

These laid eggs are then essentially free wild food for other shrimp and fish in your tank.

Other shrimp will readily eat discarded eggs, just as they would eat other things they stumble across in your tank.

The eggs are actually a very nutritious food and a great source of protein for your shrimp, so it’s no surprise they would choose to bite into them.

The same type of idea can be applied to eggs that are collapsing or not developing properly.

A mother shrimp may choose to drop these as well, and then these eggs will either be eaten or degraded by the bacteria in your tank.

But what about healthy eggs?

Do cherry shrimp eat healthy shrimp eggs?

The short answer is no, cherry shrimp will not eat healthy shrimp eggs. They will also generally not eat the healthy eggs of other species, choosing instead to eat any fungus that might grow on them.

From all the posts and articles I’ve read, the shrimp just don’t seem to have a taste for eggs that are in good condition.

This fact has led many aquarists who breed several species of fish and other aquatic creatures to use cherry shrimp and other breeds of dwarf shrimp as a kind of caretaker for the eggs of their breeding pairs.

A few Cherry Shrimp can be dropped into a brood box or separate tank used exclusively for breeding, and they will turn the eggs and eat any fungus that may be growing around the egg piles.

This fungus can become a problem later in egg development (for some species of fish, not all), and by having the shrimp as the egg nurse, breeders avoid the potential loss of healthy fry.

At the end of the day, cherry shrimp seem to actually prefer to eat dead or dying material.

They’re almost like little grim reapers that way (pretty creepy if you ask me).

Then what about shrimp on shrimp cannibalism? Why have people claimed their healthy shrimp are attacking other healthy (and definitely not dead) cherry shrimp?

Do cherry shrimp eat each other?

Cherry shrimp generally do not attack each other.

They are not particularly territorial and do not tend to fight for mating rights like other species of fish and some mammals do.

Then why would they attack each other?

Hunger.

Cherry shrimp don’t usually need to be fed very often.

It may sound unreal, but it’s not uncommon for cherry shrimp keepers to go weeks between feedings.

Usually this is fine, as a well-established aquarium will have plenty of biofilm, plant matter, and leftover debris from other aquarium mates that shrimp can use to nourish themselves between feedings.

However, if the shrimp are kept in a bare bottomed tank – a tank with no substrate – or a tank that is not adequately set up to provide your shrimp with substitute food, they will become very hungry and very distressed.

There is no more food in their heads.

As smart as we’d like to believe our little buddies, they can’t always really tell what’s going on.

With a severe lack of readily available food in their tank, they may panic and assume they need to go into starvation mode.

At this point, the normally docile shrimp begin to seek out readily available food sources in their area.

Female shrimp will most likely run out of berries and may drop their eggs to conserve resources (and possibly eat them if desperate enough).

Eventually, when all other outlets are gone, cherry shrimp will have no choice but to fight with each other for survival.

This is where the stories from the forums come from.

In desperate times, cherry shrimp can attack and even kill each other.

Cherry shrimp have no qualms about eating another already-dead cherry, and sadly, once a loser is declared in a life-or-death fight, that shrimp becomes a life-giving meal for one or more others.

This behavior can easily be avoided with proper feeding.

You need to find the balance between overfeeding – leading to algae, potential overpopulation and increased bioburden on your filter system – and underfeeding.

Sometimes, however, it’s not actually one cherry shrimp that attacks and kills another.

Although this seems to happen, there is usually a very logical and much more common explanation.

Do cherry shrimp eat their molts?

Cherry shrimp are a variety of crustaceans that go through a process called moulting.

This is very similar to a molting snake, where the outer layer of the shrimp’s shell is peeled off, as the growing shrimp inside has outgrown this outer protection.

During a molt, the cherry shrimp sheds its outermost skin, revealing a soft inner body, and emerges from the leftover molt by retreating.

What remains is a shell that still closely resembles the shrimp that used to live in it.

These molts are actually still very important as they are packed with nutrients and provide an excellent food source not only for the newly molted (not to mention tired and hungry) shrimp but for other shrimp nearby as well.

At this time, it is very common for your shrimp family to eat the molt and slowly make it disappear.

From what I’ve read, this is the point that many people consider cannibalism.

It can appear as if your cherry is molting, killing and eating, and sometimes it can be difficult to tell this from a healthy, live shrimp.

There are a few things you can do to try and make your shrimp more docile and prevent them from attacking each other if that is indeed the case.

This will prevent your shrimp from becoming aggressive

As we have already discussed, cherry shrimp are generally calm and will not typically attack each other unless they become very distressed.

The most important thing you can do to keep them this way, or to get them back to their normal temperament, is to feed them.

It is important that there is enough food to keep them happy!

At the same time, don’t overfeed as you can cause further problems like high nitrogen and ammonia levels which can kill all your shrimp overnight if not kept in check.

Here’s a good guide on how much to feed your clan:

The other thing you can do is gradually lower your water temperature.

A lower water temperature means that your shrimp eat less quickly, are less mobile and live longer.

It won’t harm them either, as long as the changes are gradual (over several days rapid changes can kill them) and you still stay above their minimum recommended temperatures.

Ideally you want them at around 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you’re looking for good shrimp food to keep your aquarium full and happy, check out this stuff on Amazon.

It’s what I plan to use and it has excellent reviews while being easy on the wallet.

Plus, spirulina can be a great food for all types of aquarium friends, not just shrimp, and baby shrimp can eat it just as easily as adults!

Red Rili Shrimp are selectively bred from Red Cherry Shrimp for their Rili pattern. They are red in color on the head and tail with a clear body.

CARE – Red Rili shrimp are easy to care for as they are able to adapt to a wide range of water parameters. They can be kept in both soft and hard water, we recommend keeping them in hard water with a gH of at least 8 to allow them to show their best colour. The aquarium should be flushed completely before adding shrimp. There should be no traces of ammonia and nitrite, nitrate should be below 25 ppm. Weekly water changes of 10-20% are recommended to keep nitrate levels low. Only feed 2-3 times a week as overfeeding will cause the shrimp to die off.

BREEDING – Breeding Red Rili shrimp is fairly easy, if there is a male and a female in the aquarium they will reproduce. Female shrimp carry the eggs for about 30 days until they hatch to the miniature size of their parents. A well-equipped aquarium is important for the shrimp to survive, as they can only eat biofilms until they are old. We recommend keeping only one variety of Neocaridina shrimp per tank due to crossbreeding as this will return the offspring to wild colour.

Common name: Red Rili

Scientific name: Neocaridina davidi

Maximum size: 1.5″

Water parameters:

pH 6.5 – 7.5

gH 6 – 12

kH 0 – 10

TDS 250 – 350

Temperature 68 – 78F

Shipping Size: 1/2″ – 1″

Common Name: Red Rili Shrimp

Neocaridina Davidi

Care: Easy

Temperature range: 65 – 84 F

pH: 7.0 – 8.0

TDS: 200-300ppm

GH: 4-8 dGH

CH: 3-15 dCH

Lifespan: 1.5 -2.5 years

Size: 0.75 – 1.25″

Diet: Omnivore

Habitat: Freshwater, fully aquatic

Breeding: Easy

Gestation period: 30 days

Our water parameters:

Temperature range: 65 – 80 F

pH: 7.2-7.6

TDS: 250-300

GH: 8

CH: 8

Size: 0.75 – 1.0 inch

tank raised

To ensure live arrival, free shipping does not apply to shrimp orders shipped via Fedex Overnight.

*To increase survival rates, please allow us 2-3 business days to prepare your shrimp shipment.

*Some shrimp ship from our Northern California facility.

The Red Rili Shrimp is a popular choice for freshwater shrimp aquarists due to its beautiful red and translucent white coloring, as well as its relatively easy care and breeding. A striking and dynamic addition to a freshwater aquarium, Red Rili Shrimp will stand out beautifully against a dark substrate. These shrimp are very active as they clean out the tank and eliminate debris. They love to feed on naturally occurring biofilm and algae, especially in a planted tank. Because of this, they can be quite low-maintenance; In fact, they can even help keep your tank clean! Red Rili shrimp can withstand a fairly wide range of water parameters and their life expectancy can be up to 2 years if well cared for. These shrimp are avid breeders, making them a great choice for beginners in freshwater shrimp farming. Red rili shrimp are not an aggressive species, and this combined with their versatility make them a good option as aquarium companions.

The Red Rili Shrimp is a color variant of the Fire Red Shrimp. Fire Red Shrimp is a product of selective breeding of Red Cherry Shrimp for bright red and coloring. Created by selecting their bold, translucent white and red stripes, Rili Red Prawns have become a very stable line. Red Rili shrimp are bright red throughout with translucent white stripes. Typically, the stripe pattern on the head and front part of the body is red with a translucent white stripe down the center of the body and a red tail. There may be deviations depending on the breeding line. Sexing Red Rili Shrimp can be a bit tricky until the shrimp start to mature. Female red rili shrimp have slightly larger tails and display a “saddle” formation on the torso behind the head where the eggs are stored prior to fertilization. When female shrimp are “berry” or have eggs ready to be fertilized, the saddle shape will be more prominent. Once the shrimp are fully grown, the males are smaller than the females.

Red rili shrimp are tolerant of a fairly wide range of water parameters, making them excellent for mating with other species. As long as the shrimp are properly acclimated to the parameters you choose and are not exposed to extreme temperature or acidity fluctuations, they are adaptable and resilient. They tolerate soft or hard water. The ideal water parameters are 70°-85° F with 7 to 7.5 pH. However, as mentioned, you can keep them outside of these parameters as long as the shrimp are protected from extreme or frequent fluctuations.

Accepting a variety of foods, red rili shrimp may be able to survive in planted tanks on trapped biofilm and algae. If your tank has too many shrimp for the available algae and biofilm, or not enough plants to produce them, you can supplement their diet with algae tablets, blanched vegetables, or other shrimp food. However, it is very important not to overfeed your shrimp as this can be unhealthy and even fatal. Increased wastage from overfeeding your shrimp can affect your nitrogen cycle and increase tank maintenance as well as harm your tank’s inhabitants. Feeding shrimp once a day is usually sufficient, especially when biofilm and algae are present. If shrimp are unresponsive to food or leave food uneaten for more than a day, remove food and reduce feeding. Especially in mature plant tanks, your shrimp may not need supplemental feeding very often.

Red Rili shrimp are eager breeders when the water conditions are comfortable and there is a sufficient food source. Once the shrimp are mature and males and females are present, they should reproduce naturally and frequently. It is recommended to buy 8-10 shrimp to ensure there are enough male-female pairs for successful breeding. When female shrimp have eggs available for fertilization, they molt and release pheromones to which the male shrimp respond with a frenzy. Once the shrimp have hatched, the eggs will become pregnant for about 2 weeks. The shrimp fry feed on the same food sources as their parents and molt frequently in their early life stages. Leave skinned shells in the tank as the shrimp fry will use them up for extra minerals like calcium to help them grow. Keep in mind that keeping shrimp with other fish species or potentially aggressive shrimp species can affect reproduction. If the shrimp feel threatened or have nowhere to hide in your tank, they will not be able to breed.

Rili Red Shrimp are a great addition to any shrimp aquarium, whether it is long established or just starting out. These shrimp are easy to care for and go well with many other types of fish and shrimp. If you want to enjoy a beautiful shrimp that will breed easily and help maintain your aquarium, the Red Rili Shrimp is a good choice.

Cherry shrimp are among the most popular ornamental shrimp, and with good reason. They have a stunning red coloring that will vary depending on the quality of the cherry shrimp you buy. They are great beginner shrimp that are extremely hardy. Finding a suitable aquarium mate for these small shrimp can be difficult as many fish look to them as a natural food source. Finding the right balance between aquarium mates and your delicate cherry shrimp is important. Overall, tank conditions and setup play a large part in the success rate of keeping cherry shrimp with other fish or invertebrates.

10 Best Tank Mates for Cherry Shrimp in 2022

1. Neon Tetra (P. innesi) – Best for community aquariums

Size: 1.5 inch

1.5 inches Diet: Omnivore

Omnivore Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

10 Gallon Care Level: Basic

Light Temperament: Peaceful

Neon tetras are small, brightly colored fish that are easily recognized by their black and red coloring. They stay relatively small and prefer to live in groups of at least 6 other neons. They are known to be peaceful fish that prefer to be at the top level of the aquarium. A planted tank that also offers hiding spots for your cherry shrimp is ideal. Neon tetras will rarely annoy shrimp, but have been known to nibble on cherry shrimp on occasion. Fortunately, their small mouths do not harm the shrimp themselves. This makes them one of the best aquarium mates for cherry shrimp in a community tank.

2. Male Betta Fish (B. Splendens) – Best for small tanks

Size: 2-3 inches

2-3 inches Diet: Carnivore

Carnivore Minimum tank size: 5 gallons

5 Gallon Care Level: Beginner

Beginner Temperament: Aggressive

Male betta fish have long flowing fins that weigh them down in the water. Because of this, they are not very agile or fast swimmers. Bettas can be housed with cherry shrimp if there is plenty of live vegetation for your cherry shrimp to hide in. Bettas will have difficulty swimming between the plants, which means the cherry shrimp can quickly seek shelter if your betta fish decide to chase it. Female bettas are slimmer with small fins and can easily prey on shrimp. Therefore, males should only be kept with cherry shrimp and no female bettas.

3. Freshwater snails (apple, mystery, ramshorn, nerite, bladder snail)

Size: 1-4 inches

1-4 inches Diet: Omnivore

Omnivore Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

10 Gallon Care Level: Beginner

Beginner Temperament: Peaceful

Aquarium snails are a good option as an aquarium mate for cherry shrimp. They do not actively hunt their food nor do they attempt to engage in cherry shrimp. Snails keep to themselves and will happily eat algae and any fish or shrimp waste left in the tank. If you want a cherry shrimp aquarium mate that is completely safe for your shrimp, a snail group is your best bet.

4. Dwarf Gourami (T. Lalius)

Size: 3.5-4.5 inches

3.5-4.5 inches Diet: Omnivore

Omnivore Minimum tank size: 15 gallons

15 gallons Care Level: Medium

Medium Temperament: Community fish

Most gouramis are large enough to bother and eat cherry shrimp, but the dwarf gourami is slightly smaller. These fish should only be kept with cherry shrimp if there are enough hiding places for the shrimp in the form of living plants. You want to make sure the entire bottom of the tank is planted with live plants that form ground cover. This allows the gourami to swim above the plants, and your cherry shrimp will spend their day among the foliage.

5. Bristle catfish (Ancistrus sp.)

Size: 3-6 inches

3-6 inches Diet: Omnivore

Omnivore Minimum tank size: 20 gallons

20 Gallon Care Level: Beginner

Beginner Temperament: Peaceful

Bristlenose Plecostomus is a smaller version of the common pleco, which is a popular suckermouth fish. They feed on algae and prefer to suckle on surfaces around the tank and swim minimally. You can successfully keep baby bristle catfish with cherry shrimp, but be aware that adults may be interested in the shrimp. You should create plenty of dens and hiding places for the shrimp to avoid being seen by the bristle catfish. If you offer them a lot of sinking food, they usually won’t seek out your cherry shrimp for food.

6. Cory catfish (C. trilineatus)

Size: 2-3 inches

2-3 inches Diet: Omnivore

Omnivore Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

10 Gallon Care Level: Medium

Medium Temperament: Peaceful

Cory catfish, also known as corydoras, are a grouping species of suckermouth fish that grow to be relatively small. Their small size means their mouths aren’t big enough to swallow shrimp whole. Mailed catfish should be kept in groups of at least 3 and should have plenty of driftwood and hiding places. Creating a dedicated area in the tank with plant overgrowth will protect your cherry shrimp.

7. Other Shrimp (Amano, Ghost Shrimp)

Size: 1-2 inches

1-2 inches Diet: Omnivore

Omnivore Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

10 Gallon Care Level: Medium

Medium Temperament: Peaceful

You can also keep other types of shrimp successfully with cherries. The most common shrimp tankmates are either amano or ghost shrimp. Shrimp will not fight and ignore other species in the tank. You don’t have to worry about your cherry shrimp being eaten or injured as shrimp keep to themselves. It is worth noting that crossbreeding between different species of shrimp can occur and you should be prepared to handle a large quantity of shrimp. Because of this, you should make sure the tank is big enough to support the level.

8. Lesser Rasboras (R. trilineata)

Size: 0.75-1.5 inch

0.75-1.5 inches Diet: Omnivore

Omnivore Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

10 Gallon Care Level: Beginner

Beginner temperament: community fish

Dwarf rasbora are small, not exceeding 1.5 inches. They enjoy being in a small school and make an excellent community fish when kept with other fish species on this list and cherry shrimp. They are easy to care for and generally pay little attention to the cherry shrimp. There is a risk that they will bite the shrimp because they are fast enough to catch them.

9. Fancy Guppies (Poecilia reticulata)

Size: 2 inches

2 inches Diet: Omnivore

Omnivore Minimum tank size: 5 gallons

5 Gallon Care Level: Beginner

Beginner temperament: community fish

Guppies are showy fish that come in a variety of patterns and colors. They usually swim near the top level of the aquarium and should not notice the cherry shrimp. Guppies are a great fish choice for those looking to add color and beauty to their cherry shrimp aquarium.

10. African Dwarf Frog (Hymenochirus)

Size: 2.5-3 inches

2.5-3 inches Diet: Carnivore

Carnivore Minimum tank size: 15 gallons

15 gallons Care Level: Medium

Medium Temperament: Peaceful

A great amphibious tank mate is the African pygmy frog. These are small, peaceful frogs that can be housed in smaller types of tanks. They should be housed in pairs or more, meaning you should have 15 gallons per frog. With the addition of cherry shrimp, African dwarf frogs will take little interest in them as long as the shrimp have plenty of hiding spots.

What makes a good tankmate for cherry shrimp?

Small aquarium mates have a higher success rate when kept with cherry shrimp. Mainly because the shrimp are big enough not to fit in the fish’s mouth. Although certain fish and amphibians can live with cherry shrimp, it’s important to note that there are no guarantees they won’t eat or injure your shrimp. Any fish has the potential to nibble on the shrimp. It is not uncommon for the adults to survive in the tank, but the baby shrimp will be eaten by even the smallest fish. Neon tetras, dwarf rasbora and freshwater snails are the best choices for cherry shrimp’s aquarium mates and are considered to be the most tolerable.

Where do cherry shrimp prefer to live in the aquarium?

Cherry shrimp will mainly stay at the lowest level of the tank, but will climb plants to reach the top in search of oxygen. You can also choose to hang near stems in the center of the aquarium. If you have a heavily planted tank it can be difficult to see your shrimp clearly unless they are climbing plants.

water parameters

Cherry shrimp are very sensitive to water quality. There is a certain level of maintenance in which you should comply with the parameters. Total levels of ammonia and nitrite in the tank should be no more than 0 ppm (parts per million), and nitrates should be strictly kept below 10 ppm. Anything higher will kill your cherry shrimp. A heater isn’t necessary if you live in a tropical climate, but you’ll appreciate a stable temperature that a heater can provide.

The KH for cherry shrimp should be between 2 and 4 while the GH should be between 7 and 15. Keep the pH between 7.0 and 7.6. This will replicate their natural water system in the wild consisting of streams and ponds in Taiwan.

size

Cherry shrimp are Neocaridina, a smaller species of shrimp. They typically grow between 1 and 1.5 inches. Females tend to be larger and have a thicker body due to their egg saddle in which they store their eggs. Men are slimmer and have thin bodies that can make them appear smaller.

aggressive behavior

Cherry shrimp are not aggressive and will not attack tank residents. They are gentle creatures that cannot defend themselves if another fish decides to attack them. Therefore, they are easily eaten or injured by other aggressive fish. The only way cherry shrimp can escape predators is through their excellent swimming skills and hiding among the vegetation in the tank.

Advantages of tank mates for cherry shrimp in your aquarium

Cleaning Team: Some of the tank mates are excellent algae eaters and do a great job of keeping the tank clean and debris free. They willingly pick up leftover fish food in the substrate and clean algae from surfaces in the tank, and with the help of your cherry shrimp you can keep the tank algae-free.

Some of the tank mates are excellent algae eaters and do a great job of keeping the tank clean and debris free. They willingly pick up leftover fish food in the substrate and clean algae from surfaces in the tank, and with the help of your cherry shrimp you can keep the tank algae-free. Nano Aquariums: They’re nano-aquarium friendly, meaning you can keep cherry shrimp with some of the tank mates if you’re short on space for a large tank but still want to own aquatic pets.

They’re nano tank friendly, meaning you can keep cherry shrimp with some of the tank mates if you’re short on space for a large aquarium but still want to own aquatic pets. Color: The aquarium mates also add color and life to an aquarium. They come in a variety of colors that stand out when paired with cherry shrimp.

How to successfully raise cherry shrimp with Tank Mates

Since many fish only see cherry shrimp as food, you need to find a way to let them live together peacefully. The best form of shelter for cherry shrimp are shrimp tunnels, which are specifically designed for shrimp but not fish. These tunnels can be bought at large fish stores. Growing a wide variety of plants like java moss, vallisneria and other bushy plants like tomentosum make excellent little hiding spots for cherry shrimp where the fish can’t reach them. Creating a jungle of plants at the bottom of the aquarium provides maximum protection from predators as they won’t see them through the foliage.

Related Read: The 5 Best Plants For Cherry Shrimp In 2021 – Reviews And Top Picks

Conclusion

Keeping peaceful and small fish shrimp is the best option to create a peaceful community for all residents within the tank. Always make sure you have the right water conditions according to the type of fish or amphibian you want to keep with your cherry shrimp. Cherry shrimp are tolerant of both cold and tropical water, but not fluctuations between the two. For this reason, it is advisable to keep freshwater snails or neon tetras with your shrimp. Interestingly, shrimp thrive when kept with others of their own kind, but if you’re looking to add some excitement to the tank, we hope this article has helped you choose a suitable aquarium mate for your cherry shrimp.

Featured image: David Tadevosian, Shutterstock

Can I breed red cherry shrimp with fish in my aquarium and if so which fish are best? This is a question I get emailed a lot and it’s asked all the time on various forums. And there are two answers, the simple one and the more complicated one!

The simple answer:

Yes you can!

The more complicated answer:

Red cherry shrimp are very easy to breed dwarf shrimp. There are few things that will cause them not to breed. Stress is one of them.

There are many fish that will prey on red cherry shrimp, and in an aquarium they are very cramped with relatively few hiding places (compared to wild shrimp). This can lead to massive stress.

If the fish kept in the aquarium do not catch adult shrimp, the red cherry shrimp will quickly notice this and start breeding. The problem here is that almost every fish that swims is snacking on a baby shrimp.

If you plan on raising the young I always recommend not having fish. If you must have fish, provide the youngsters with as many hiding places as possible, but expect the population to grow at a much slower rate than if they were alone!

We have an article on the types of fish that are ideal for your shrimp!

Red cherry shrimp

A GUIDE TO CARE AND GROWING RED CHERRY SHRIM RCS

Red Cherry Shrimp or RCS is a breed of shrimp known as Neocaridina denticulata sinensis. Red cherry shrimp come in many colors in the wild, but in the aquarium red is by far the most popular variety, credited to its name. The bright red color is the result of years of selective breeding. In the aquarium, the red cherry shrimp stands out in particular from plants and darker substrates.

Cherry shrimp are extremely hardy and tolerant compared to other shrimp species. This makes them excellent beginner shrimp. They are easy to breed, care for and naturally hide from predators. I would recommend buying red cherry shrimp from a reputable breeder (e.g. here) that has a healthy culture of solid red cherry shrimp and a reliable shipping record.

Temperature ~80F

The optimal aquarium temperature for red cherry shrimp is around 77-81°F (25-27°C). Higher temperatures result in faster growth and reproduction rates. However, higher temperatures reduce dissolved oxygen and stocking must be reduced. 30°C (86°F) is the upper limit tolerated by RCS, but at this point the water must be aerated and the tank must not be overfilled. RCS can survive temperatures below 77°F, but they are unlikely to reproduce and have a higher chance of catching disease.

pH ~6.8

The pH for red cherry shrimp should be slightly acidic, between 6.2 and 7.3. This area maximizes egg health, color, and hatch rate. If you have water with a higher pH from the tap (7.5+) it is advisable to use a commercial substrate similar to that used by ADA Amazonia. This lowers the pH and provides a soft, dark substrate for the RCS. Alternatively, a small bag of peat can be added to the filter to lower the pH, but the water may become discolored.

Nitrite 0ppm

Before adding living organisms to the aquarium, nitrite should be 0. After the cycle, nitrite levels should never be recorded on a test kit. Possible increased causes are overstocking or rotting plant or fish matter. Shrimp are very sensitive to nitrite, make sure your cycle is complete and nitrite is a solid zero.

Ammonia 0ppm

As with nitrite, ammonia should always be 0 after the cycle. RCS are also very sensitive to ammonia, make sure it’s around 0ppm.

Nitrate >20ppm

Nitrate should be less than 20 ppm. It is not a requirement, but it is highly recommended to have 0 ppm nitrate levels. Adding plants to the tank and regular water changes are both excellent ways to reduce nitrate levels. Above 20 ppm RCS are susceptible to disease and infertility.

water change 30%

Ideally, the aquarium water should be changed at least 30% every week. A dechlorination solution is a necessity as red cherry shrimp are sensitive to chlorine and heavy metals. It’s a good idea to prepare the water a few days in advance and “age” the water with the De-Chloriantor. This is to ensure that any toxic compounds such as chlorine can be broken down and removed. Using a spare glass heater to bring the changed water up to the aquarium temperature will reduce the shaking of the RCS during the water change.

Adding the red cherry shrimp

It is important to remember that while CRS are hardy shrimp, they are still sensitive to fluctuations in water chemistry. Water stability is both the long- and short-term goal.

Make sure the aquarium has been chemically tested and meets the parameters listed above. Although red cherry shrimp are hardy and tolerant, they are prone to rapid change. To add the RCS to the aquarium, first transfer them from the bag to a large bowl with the accompanying water.

Using an air hose and a rubber band, create a siphon out of the aquarium and crease the hose by placing the rubber band over a bent section of hose. Adjust the kink so that a slow drip of 1 drop per second of water exits the hose. Let this drip into the bowl for the next 20-30 minutes and watch closely.

After 20-30 minutes, gently use a soft net to transfer the shrimp to the aquarium. Be sure to cover the net with one hand when moving the RCS out of the bowl as the shrimp may jump and escape the net.

Like many fish, cherry shrimp get stressed if the water quality is not optimal. They are usually very active and early warning signs will be seen if they don’t move or swim to the surface and then swim. Avoid this situation by constantly testing the water, using appropriate dechlorinators, and making sure the tank has completed the cycle.

If a situation arises, immediately check the water, perform a water change, and try to identify the problem. If you have more than one aquarium, moving the RCS to a suitable temporary home, even if conditions are suboptimal, is often far better than leaving it in a poisonous aquarium.

Here is a link to a complete guide on how to set up a shrimp tank. Including setup instructions, cycling and choosing the right hardscape in much more detail.

Feeding red cherry shrimp

You must constantly feed your RCS like you would any other pet in the aquarium. They eat minimal algae in the aquarium and are omnivores that require a balanced diet and daily supplemental food. Feeding is particularly important in relation to breeding and preventing infertile births and healthy young.

A balanced diet of fresh vegetables and processed foods is recommended for RCS. Vegetables such as cooked zucchini and spinach are consumed and are excellent for red cherry shrimp health. Be sure to cook these for a few minutes or they will float out of reach on the surface.

Processed, store-bought foods like flakes, pellets, and specialty shrimp foods are important in providing RCS with a balanced diet and giving them that rich red color. One of the highest quality feeds that I generally recommend is the Shirakura Red Shrimp Food as it will not cloud your aquarium and was specially developed in Japan for aquarium shrimp. If there is excess food in the tank from the last feeding, remove the food and add smaller amounts at feeding time. This helps keep ammonia and nitrites at 0.

Dangers of RCS in the Planted Aquarium

Shrimp and plant aquariums are in some ways a perfect complement to each other and in others a disastrous combination. When it comes to disasters and shrimp husbandry, CO2 injection is probably the biggest killer. This is especially true for DIY CO2 setups.

When CO2 is added to the aquarium water, it dissolves and is taken up by the plants for photosynthesis. Without a light source (e.g. at night) CO2 is not used by the plants and instead forms carbonic acid in the water. This can sometimes dramatically lower and fluctuate the pH from day to night. Red cherry shrimp, while tolerant, often cannot cope with pH fluctuations or lack of oxygen.

The use of CO2 injections and the maintenance of RCS must be done carefully. This may not be as simple as using a solenoid valve to inject CO2 only during light hours. Horror stories have sprung up where hobbyists have forgotten to reset their light timers. In the morning, when the lights don’t come on but the CO2 starts to bubble, you risk a huge PH spike and a high risk of stressing your RCS.

Fertilizer additives must be carefully considered before adding them to a Red Cherry shrimp tank. Of course, all copper and heavy metal additives should be avoided.

Aside from that, the moss and plants will provide RCS with an underwater playground for them to grow and thrive. Planted aquariums are also excellent for RCS offspring. Even with small fish in the tank, RCS reproduce quickly enough to increase the population in a densely planted aquarium.

Tankmates & Compatibility

Red cherry shrimp are best kept in a species aquarium. They breed quickly, are fairly hardy, and interact well with their own kind. They lack the proper defenses to be housed with larger fish and are little more than live fish food.

Staying away from predatory fish such as Discus, Oscars, Cichlids, Arowanas, Angelfish and other large species is a must. Red cherry shrimp are comparatively cheap but extremely expensive as random fish food.

RCS breed readily and raising young is an exciting and interesting prospect. This is more difficult with other aquarium mates, as even the smallest tetras will be able to consume offspring of shrimp.

RCS housing with other shrimp is possible, but they prefer to interact with their own kind. A species tank is advisable to prevent dominance disputes and brood rearing.

When keeping these shrimp it is important to remember that they have almost no bioburden. Up to 1000 in a standard sized 55 gallon aquarium would hardly stress the filter bacteria. Lots of shrimp can cause the problem of overfeeding. It is very important to remove uneaten portions of feed to keep ammonia under control. Although you could technically store an unlimited number of shrimp, it is advisable to have 2-5 per gallon of water. That’s a lot of shrimp!

Breeding of red cherry shrimp

Keeping and breeding dwarf shrimp is very popular around the world and is becoming more and more attractive these days. Therefore, understanding how to breed and care for freshwater shrimp is absolutely crucial. This guide basically gives you everything you need to know: lighting, water parameters, filters, substrate, mineral stones, plants, etc. Even if you are an experienced shrimp farmer, you may find it useful for you too.

I’ll do my best to give you everything you need to know about shrimp so you can get the best results.

types of shrimp

First things first, let’s start with types of freshwater shrimp. You have to decide what kind of shrimp you want. Don’t think it’s not that important. Some shrimp species require special conditions to reproduce. So if you want to achieve the best possible result, everything has to be in the right place.

There are 3 main types of shrimp:

1. Neo Caridina shrimp.

2. Caridina shrimp.

3. Sulawesi Prawns.

Note: Of course there are other shrimp species such as Palaemonetes (e.g. ghost shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus)), Atyopsis (e.g. bamboo shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis)). I will talk about this in other articles.

All of the main species have so many variations that choosing your first shrimp can be a little overwhelming. If you are a total beginner, Neocaridina davidi, or the more common name – cherry shrimp – is your best bet. She is easy to breed, very unpretentious and very beautiful in appearance.

Neocaridina Davidi Common Name: Cherry Shrimp Scientific Name Neocaridina davidi Origin Taiwan Maximum Size: 2-2.5 cm or 0.8-1 inch Temperament: Omnivore/non-aggressive Breeding: Extremely easy Keeping: Extremely easy

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Set up your aquarium for shrimp

There are a lot of things you need to know about it. However, they all fall into two categories:

1. Basic requirements:

– filtering.

– water parameters.

– temperature

Basic requirements allow you to even start keeping shrimp.

2. Additional requirements:

– tank size.

– Plant.

– Driftwood, Chola Wood and Beeramid.

– Leaves and cones.

– snails.

– water change.

– Food and dietary supplements.

– lighting.

– mineral stones.

– herbal supplements.

– Fish presence.

– substrates.

Ancillary supplies are not essential, but they allow you to create optimal conditions in your tank. This will increase the survival rate and your shrimp will thrive. Always remember that secondary requirements will never replace or compensate for the primary requirements. So let’s start with the equipment.

Original requirements

heaters. Temperature requirements for shrimp

Normally a temperature of 21-24°C (70-75°F) is recommended, with the exception of Sulawesi shrimp which requires 26-29°C (79-84°F).

If your room temperature has these numbers (day and night) you don’t need them. If the fluctuation is large enough, it would be better to install one.

Consistency is the most important factor when it comes to temperature. There shouldn’t be any sudden changes and the bigger your tank the slower it will happen. So if you’re looking to start shrimp farming, take a closer look at a 2-foot (60 cm) aquarium. Unfortunately, this is the biggest disadvantage of small aquariums. In small tanks everything can go wrong quickly. You just have to have some room for error.

Tips: If you need the heater, you need to keep in mind that most heaters are not accurate. For example, if you set it to 72F, it may actually be 68F or 76F in reality. The only way to get accurate readings is to leave a thermostat in the tank just to make sure you’re getting an accurate temperature reading.

What happens if you keep shrimp outside the recommended temperature?

Actually, by the way, it’s a common mistake. When it happens, you can expect that.

At higher temperatures: At lower temperatures: 1. shorter lifespan 1. longer lifespan 2. faster brood cycle 2. longer brood cycle 3. more food 3. less food

Of course, deviating from the recommended parameters like 2-3 degrees will not harm your shrimp so much. Anyway, it is better to follow the requirements.

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Filter for shrimp

Many different filters will work really well, so you’ll need to choose what works best for your situation (given the space and size of the aquarium). Some people claim that the canister filter is definitely a favorite (quiet and powerful). While overs are content with sponge filters (or mat filters).

I would like to mention that over-filtering the aquarium can also be bad. On shrimp forums, some people said they have been using canister filters for years and their water is as pure as can be. Eventually, shrimp became hypersensitive and died very easily. They needed almost sterile conditions. Still, you shouldn’t worry too much because under normal circumstances, you will never have such pure water for so long.

Related article:

Baby Shrimp and Filter

The most important thing about the filter is that it cannot suck in your baby shrimp. They are tiny creatures (1-3mm long) and you need to keep them safe. To prevent them from getting into the filter, you can cover an inlet with stockings. In this case, do not forget to clean it from dirt every 3-4 days. So it won’t block the inlet or burn out your pump.

There is also an easier way. You can choose a good filter with a high PPI (pores per inch) from the start. For example, 25-30 PPI is sufficient.

filters and ammonia

Filters play an important role in an aquarium ecosystem. Besides clarifying the water in the tank, it also breaks down ammonia (NH3 – toxic to shrimp) into nitrites (NO2 – toxic to shrimp) and then into nitrates (NO3). This is extremely important for the survival of your shrimp.

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Water parameters for the shrimp

I cannot stress enough the importance of having the required water parameters. It will define the line between life and death for your shrimp colony. Therefore, the most important thing here is to keep your water parameters both correct and constant.

pH requirements for the shrimp

pH is an abbreviation for a hydrogen potential, which tells you whether the water is considered acidic, neutral, or alkaline.

On a scale from 0 to 14:

– pH 7 is considered “neutral”,

– below 7 is considered “sour”

– above 7 is considered “alkaline”.

To know the pH of your water, you need a pH test kit. They are cheap and can be found at almost any pet store.

Optimum pH

Tiger Caridina Shrimp Bee Caridina Shrimp Neo Caridina Shrimp Sulawesi Shrimp between 6 and 7 between 6.2 and 6.8 between 6.5 and 7.5 between 7.5 and 8.5

Related article:

GH requirements for the shrimp

GH – is an acronym for General Hardness. This is a measure of the total amount of dissolved minerals (calcium and magnesium) in your tank. You will need to purchase a test kit for this as well.

Optimal gH

Tiger Caridina Shrimp Bee Caridina Shrimp Neo Caridina Shrimp Sulawesi Shrimp between 4 and 8 between 4 and 6 between 6 and 8 between 4 and 6

Related article:

KH requirements for the shrimp

KH stands for carbonate hardness. It is the water buffering capacity (ability to neutralize acids). In simple terms – how flexible your pH is. For example, if your kH is 0, that means your pH can go from 5 to 10 overnight.

Optimal kH

Tiger Caridina Shrimp Bee Caridina Shrimp Neo Caridina Shrimp Sulawesi Shrimp between 2 and 6 between 0 and 1 between 1 and 4 between 2 and 4

Related article:

TDS requirements for shrimp

TDS is an acronym for Total Dissolved Solids. It tells us everything that is not H2O molecules. It can be minerals, ammonia, nitrites, etc. There are also special instruments to measure it. TDS helps you decide when it’s time for a water change.

Optimal TDS

Tiger Caridina Shrimp Bee Caridina Shrimp Neo Caridina Shrimp Sulawesi Shrimp between 100 and 200 between 100 and 200 between 100 and 300 between 150 and 250

Related article:

Water sources for the shrimp

We have multiple water source options. These are:

1. Tap water

2. Well water

3. Rainwater

4. RO/RODI (Filtered Water)

Tiger caridina shrimp Bee caridina shrimp Neo caridina shrimp Sulawesi shrimp RO/RODI (filtered) water. Rainwater RO/RODI (filtered) water. Rainwater Tap water Borehole or well water RO/RODI (filtered) water. Important: absolutely pure water (as already mentioned) is not enough. They need magnesium, calcium and other minerals to survive. So if you use rainwater or RO water, you need to remineralize it. There are special products on the market for this. They can live on tap water for some time, but eventually they will die out. They are easier to keep because they can survive and reproduce in harsh conditions. Sulawesi shrimp can survive in your tap water for some time, but it is absolutely not good for them.

Another way to understand the hard way that your shrimp aren’t happy is by the number of babies. If you’re having 10-15 babies (or fewer) a few times in a row, that’s a warning sign! You need to check all the parameters and find the error.

Secondary Requirements

Let’s talk about things that will increase your shrimp’s survival rate and give you more babies.

Tank size for the shrimp

It mainly depends on the goals. If you are serious about farming shrimp, the best size may be around 30 – 40 gallons. If it is not possible to have a place for such a large tank, choose 20 longs. The main reason 20 long tanks are better for shrimp is that they have more surface area than say 20 high. The latter has more water volume, which is better for fish. With shrimp it is better to have the actual surface.

If you only want to keep shrimp, you can even work with a 10 gallon tank.

Tank size also limits the amount of shrimp in it. If you want them to be comfortable, it’s better to have 1-3 shrimp per 1 liter of water (5-10 per gallon). As you can see, even a small 10 gallon tank can hold at least 50 shrimp. That is much!

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plants for the shrimp

In nature, shrimp spend most of their time hiding from predators. Moss and other plants give them such places. This makes them feel more comfortable.

Plants also provide an additional surface for biofilm growth. In terms of aquaristics, the biofilm is a collection of multicellular organisms, such as bacteria, diatoms, algae, fungi and others. Biofilm forms a layer on any surface that is immersed in water. This happens because macromolecules (e.g. sugars, proteins) stick to surfaces since surfaces (at the molecular level) are polar (i.e. have positively and negatively charged areas). Bacteria are therefore the first to attach to these surfaces in order to take advantage of these molecules. The bacteria, in turn, make the surfaces attractive to other organisms.

Each surface also has a unique biofilm. The most important thing shrimp farmers should know is that biofilm is food for shrimp and plays an important role in their diet.

Another advantage of the plant tank is that plants also break down ammonia. Don’t worry, shrimp will not eat healthy plants. They are scavengers and have no interest unless the plant dies or rots. Still, it’s a good thing for you too. You spend less time cleaning your tank.

All in all, plants are extremely beneficial for any shrimp tank, even pothos plants.

Tip: Don’t underestimate the importance of quarantining plants before adding them to the tank. They may contain pesticides.

There are also people who believe that some of the plants can be poisonous. But it is very controversial and controversial.

Driftwood, chola wood and beeramid for the shrimp

Again, it provides hiding places and additional surface area for biofilm growth. In any case, reasonable limits must be set for this. Eventually, the driftwood will begin to decompose and encourage algae growth.

Another thing you need to know is the driftwood:

lowers the pH of the water as it releases tenants

can change (increase) the TDS of your water.

If you have a very high TDS parameter, there can be several reasons.

Test your RO. If it’s not good, it’s a signal to replace the membrane. If RO is not an issue, then you will need to do more frequent and larger water changes to lower TDS. Again. Be careful and watch the shrimp’s reactions. This would start getting rid of the excess fertilizer that has built up.

Chola wood is actually a dead cactus. It has functions similar to driftwood. Chola wood is a great place for plants. In addition, it is also a super good anchor. It also builds up a lot of biofilm for the shrimp themselves and also releases tannins.

Related article:

As modern technology advances and displaces the old, you can use the multifunctional Beeramide. It’s basically a porous ceramic shelter. The Beeramid provides a place for shelter, breeding, nesting and just living.

However, because it’s so porous, it actually harbors a lot of beneficial bacteria for your tanks. In addition, it will be another filter source for your aquarium.

leaves for the shrimp

It’s no secret that in nature shrimp are surrounded by plants, litter and leaves. As part of the natural decomposition process, microorganisms or biofilm will cover everything. This in turn becomes shrimp food. This diet plays a very important role in the life of the shrimp, as it provides a lot of proteins and vitamins and strengthens their immune system.

The leaves we use the most in the shrimp hobby:

– Indian almond leaves

– Indian Almond Bark / Catappa Bark

– banana leaves

– guava leaves

– mulberry leaves, etc.

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snails and shrimp

I believe this is the biggest misconception in the aquatic community that snails are bad. On the contrary, I firmly believe that they should not be missing in any shrimp aquarium. They eat algae (nerit snails are among the best algae eaters), they eat dead plants and they poop a lot. Shrimp eat the snail’s droppings, giving them another source of food.

Tip: I would like to warn everyone who has Aquasoil as a substrate. Be careful with Malaysian trumpet snails. They tend to decompose it into a mush after a while.

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Food for the shrimp

I personally believe that the more expensive edibles work much better and are technically cheaper compared to cheap ones. The point is, you’ll have fewer random deaths, healthier malts, and just plain better-looking shrimp overall. Some favorite products to start with:

Shrimp king complete.

Shrimp King Mineral.

Bacter AE.

mineral junkie.

Hikari shrimp cuisine

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At the same time, you need to remember one thing: do not overfeed shrimp. Almost all products give you the recommended ration amount. The point is they play too safe. So, even if you feed shrimp a little less, you won’t have any problems.

To help you with this, you can use food bowls. They show you how much food is left. It helps prevent overfeeding. They also make it cleaner in the aquarium, since the leftover food does not get into the substrate, but is distributed on the bowl.

Water change in the shrimp tank

There are two extremely opposing points of view. Water changes are not required and must be done weekly (as with fish care).

I want to start by saying that you should never believe the myth that water changes aren’t necessary. If you feed your shrimp, they poop. It is broken down by the bacteria in your filter and ends up in the water as nitrites. And a large amount of nitrites can be toxic to your shrimp.

If your nitrate level is above 20, you should do a water change. By doing monthly water changes, you can at least smooth out some of those nitrates so they don’t harm your shrimp.

Speaking of second opinion. Shrimp are not as messy as fish. After all, they are scavengers and will help you clean the aquarium. So as you do more water changes, more things come into play and the likelihood of making a mistake increases. Since shrimp are very delicate, you don’t want to spoil anything!

If you measure a TDS as well as your nitrates and find that they are within acceptable parameters, it is okay not to do any water changes that week or month.

Failure to do water changes for an extended period of time can result in stressed shrimp and just accidental shrimp death. Therefore, please check your TDs and nitrate levels if you are not doing a water change and are just doing both top-ups.

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Light in the shrimp tank

Some people think that shrimp don’t actually need light. This is not entirely correct. Light affects the survival and growth rate of shrimp. Experiments show us that the growth rate is significantly greater in full and partial light periods. However, constant light stresses the shrimp.

If you have a light, make sure it’s not on 24 hours a day. Your shrimp will try to move away from the light, so make sure you give them enough hiding places. It is recommended to leave the light on for 6-8 hours. It will be enough for your shrimp and plants.

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Mineral stones in the shrimp tank

You can use mineral stones as it is beneficial, but they only lose a short amount of time and are quite expensive. Honestly, I’d rather use RO mineralized water with some quality food at least once a week. In this case, the mineral stones are not really needed.

Nevertheless, some shrimp farmers believe that mineral stones have a great advantage. They can help the shrimp with molting problems.

Plant supplements in the shrimp tank

Many people keep planted aquariums. Plants need nutrients and some of us feed plants with supplements. As for most shrimp farmers, shrimp health is more important than plant health.

All I want to say is that some of these supplements, especially the liquid supplements, contain trace elements of copper which can be potentially harmful to your shrimp.

Tips: I would recommend starting with 1/2 dose and not that often just to be safe. If everything is fine in 1 or 2 months, you can increase the dose to ¾. Wait some more time and then use the prescribed dosage.

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substrates for shrimp

ADA Amazonia aqua Soil.

As said before, we need to keep our pH constant and a suitable substrate can help us with that. Many people claim that ADA Amazonia soil is proven to be the best substrate in this category. It has an insane amount of nutrients and will keep your pH relatively constant if you use a 2-4 cm (1-2 inch) thick layer of soil.

ADA Amazonia leaches ammonia so you need to prep your tank before putting shrimp in it. At the same time, if you’re just starting out using ADA Amazonia soil, be prepared for cloudy water. Some shrimp (e.g. Red Bee or Caridina Japonica) peck at Amazonia granules when the substrate soil is exposed. This problem will go away once foreground plants cover the substrate. Another disadvantage of this substrate is that it is also expensive.

If you are not willing to pay Aqua Soil there is a second option – Eco-Complete or some other alternative variants of the substrate such as:

Aqua aquarium soil

Seachem Fluorite

Fluval plant and shrimp layer

Akadama

shrimp king earth

Prodibio

Dennerle Scapers Soil

Langa

Aqua Help Advanced Soil

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What fish can I keep with the shrimp?

The answer depends on the questions. Are you a shrimp owner or shrimp breeder? What are your goals? In this case, if you are a shrimp keeper, be careful not to choose the wrong species of fish. Otherwise, you may unleash an Armageddon on your shrimp.

For example, as a cherry shrimp keeper, you may have some types of fish such as:

Otocinclus

Pygmy Cory Fish

Glowlight Tetra

White clouds

Borneo sucker

Forktail Rainbowfish

Etc

Do you see the pattern here? These fish are small and peaceful. You will be happy with other food and in most cases you will leave your cherry shrimp alone.

Nevertheless, they occasionally eat baby shrimp. Yes, so it is possible to have small fish and shrimp at the same time. But you have to understand that you will lose some babies and even adults (rarely). So to minimize your losses, you need to provide your shrimp with enough hiding places to survive.

If you are a shrimp farmer, the answer is no.

As a breeder, you must not lose any shrimp or baby shrimp in the aquarium. There is a simple rule for fish. If it fits in their mouth, they will eat. So if you are serious about shrimp farming, then you should not even ask yourself this question.

Frogs, crabs and crabs are not good neighbors either. They are a potential threat even to fish.

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Cherry Shrimp Breeding Process

Once a female is a male, she is sexually mature (about three to four months old). they will breed. Breeding occurs immediately after the female molts. Moulting is the process of shedding an exoskeleton from a shrimp. This allows the shrimp to grow in size and regrow underneath the exoskeleton. During this time, the female shrimp is very vulnerable and will hide in any place where she feels safe.

After that, she will hide and release pheromones for the male to find and breed with. After incubation, the female carries the fertilized eggs under her tail until they hatch. They usually have 20-50 eggs.

The eggs are constantly fanned out by the female’s pleopods (these are swimming legs that keep the eggs oxygenated and clean). The fertilized eggs stay under the tail until they hatch (it takes about 3-5 weeks). Once the eggs hatch, the juvenile young are tiny replicas of their adult counterparts. Cherry shrimp are very fertile. However, back-to-back mating can result in high female mortality due to physical exhaustion of females.

Red cherry shrimp do not have larval stages like most saltwater and many freshwater shrimp. The young shrimp eat the same foods as adults.

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Tips:

1. If you are new to the shrimp hobby and want to get into the hobby, please don’t buy the expensive shrimp. Unfortunately, most shrimp farmers kill their first or second shrimp, that’s just a fact. Get regular cherry shrimp, let them farm. Once you’ve raised the babies and they’ve had babies, you can move on to more expensive shrimp. Gain experience. You can always sell the cherry shrimp or the cheaper shrimp later. If you really don’t want them or want to opt for more expensive ones.

2. When buying shrimp, ask the source you are buying it from about the water parameters in which the shrimp were raised. There will be less stress on the shrimp if you give them the same parameters of the water.

3. Don’t mix all different types of shrimp if you want to breed them. Different species of Neocaridina and Caridina can interbreed with each other. As a result, you get some dodgy, unstable, and strange colors, and over a long period of time, they revert to their wild color (a light, dark, brown). Therefore, stick to a specific species or lineage-specific shrimp that you want to breed.

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4. Temperature affects the sex ratio of shrimp.

5. The ratio of males and females plays a very important role in shrimp farming.

6. Don’t forget to acclimate your shrimp before placing them in the tank.

7. The most important thing for shrimp is consistency. Try to keep everything as stable as possible Temperature, KH, GH, pH.

Also, you can read more about “Survival Tips and How Not to Kill Your Shrimp” here