Set Up Ladder Bar Suspension For Wheelies? The 127 Detailed Answer

A four-link suspension uses links to move the axle side-to-side and front-to-back while allowing it to move up and down and articulate. We have to agree with the current majority that a four link suspension with coils, coilovers, quarter elliptics or air springs is definitely cool and that is the most common argument for building your own setup. The problem arises when you think you know what you’re doing and just start putting bars and links under your truck. Just because you’ve seen it on a race truck or rockcrawler doesn’t mean you need it for your weekend wheeler, although we have no problem building one just because you want to try it.

There are some definite advantages to running a four-bar linkage, but getting it right takes time, money, and then some more time and money. We hope to give you a realistic overview of a basic four-link rear suspension, but first the pros and cons of building one. The choice is yours, but please consider everything before you begin. The fact remains that a well designed and tested four-link link offers superior power transfer to the ground and a higher ride quality than leaf suspension. The secret is really in the testing part. If you are building a four bar linkage on your rig then be prepared to refine it and tear it apart a few times before it works properly. And during this testing period, we wouldn’t recommend driving it to work at 60mph on the freeway. You might get lucky the first time, but if not, remember that taking apart and rebuilding your truck is fun.

considerations

The biggest question when building a four-bar linkage is how long the links should be and where they should be attached to the frame and axle. This alone determines how the axle pushes the vehicle, whether the rear of the vehicle lifts or buckles when accelerating, whether the rear axle pivots and steers as a result of the wheel buckling movement, and how the body rolls around corners and over obstacles. The desired amount the vehicle performs for each of these things depends on what the vehicle is designed for (going fast, cornering, crawling, articulating) and how the driver wants the vehicle to respond over different terrain. There is no one right way to build a four-link, just like there is no perfect off-roader, but it can be tuned to do certain things better than others.

For most truck owners, an all-round four-link is the wish, but that won’t necessarily be the best rockcrawler, desertjumper, and mudbogger suspension. In addition to all the geometry involved in designing a four-link, there’s also the issue of what actually fits on the vehicle you’re building. Will the framework support the links where you want them? Do the fuel tank, exhaust, cross members and driveshafts all fit the links and allow for proper articulation? Unless you’re building a truck or buggy around the suspension, plan on making some compromises to get the best possible setup. If you like the idea of ​​keeping the leaf springs, we don’t blame you. If you’re up for the challenge, stay tuned for next month as we begin the technical part of the build.

Until then, you’ve got some homework to do. You will need a tape measure, calculator, graph paper and a pencil to round up. Now measure your wheelbase and determine the height of the tires you want to run on your rig. Then, with the truck on level ground, measure the width of the rear axle just inside the brake mounting plates and the height of the frame at various points between the axles along the frame rails. Next, find the height of your pump mount’s top center bolt to the floor. Also, start researching where to buy the materials mentioned below. Just keep in mind that you’ll want to wait until you read part two of this story next month before attacking the problem with the four links under your truck.

See all 9 photos See all 9 photos

Benefits of a four-link suspension over a simple leaf-spring suspension include control of axle wrap, better descent angles, control of axle travel, and reducing the uncontrolled variables of axle movement to just spring rate and shock valving. Additionally, a four-bar linkage can also allow for more suspension travel and articulation, which can provide more traction, although we find too much of either can cause problems. Weight is also a problem for the modern wheeler, as excess weight saps strength. Although a coil spring is lighter than a leaf spring, the weight gains are minimal when you factor in the weight of the links and brackets and everything else.

See all 9 photos See all 9 photos

The main advantage of a leaf spring suspension over a four-link suspension is cost and maintenance. It will take more time and money to remove leaf springs and design, build, test and rebuild your four link link than just fitting a good leaf spring and that’s if you do it yourself. With retail prices ranging from $25 to $75 an hour, a professionally made four-bar linkage will take a serious bite out of your wallet. We also saw some very impressive leaf sprung suspensions that allow for plenty of travel and articulation.

See all 9 photos See all 9 photos

Material is an important factor and concern for strength and safety. Depending on how low you mount them on the axle, your lower links could hit trail obstacles. We therefore recommend no less than 1 3/4″ DOM ​​tubing with 0.25″ wall thickness. If your truck is a full-size or extremely heavy, or if you plan to mount your shocks on the forearms like some race trucks, consider going to an even larger tube size, or even better, the 1 3/4 x .25 with slightly larger piece of pipe. The top links are less likely to be hit by rocks and the like, but we still recommend nothing short of .120 wall, 1 3/4″ DOM ​​tubing.

What is the difference between a car that wins a drag race and a car that doesn’t? You’re probably thinking of speed and power, right? You are partly right.

But once you’ve gotten the most out of what’s under the hood, what’s next?

Successful drag racers recognize that the devil is in the details. Power only gets you so far; It’s the little things that help you launch efficiently and maintain traction that make all the difference and end up taking home the trophy and money.

When you’re struggling with issues like excessive wheelbase and limited weight transfer, you’re missing out on valuable traction and your opponent will catch you at the finish line.

Learn about the top 5 issues affecting the performance of your drag racing suspension.

The best dampeners for drag racing

Navigating the shock options available in the racing world can be confusing territory.

Remember that the shock absorbers you buy should be customized to your car and driving preferences. If you have certain habits that change how your vehicle starts or handles, you need to consider them.

With single, dual and triple adjustable shocks and different price points, which option gives you the most bang for your buck?

How adjustable do your rear shocks need to be?

Only you can answer how adjustable your shocks need to be. A few factors will help you determine what you can afford and what you need.

Easily adjustable shock absorbers

Easily adjustable shocks are inexpensive, but you can still maintain damper performance and improve responsiveness. They fit into many applications by simply swapping out their modular body cap and grommets.

One knob adjusts both the rebound and compression of the shock simultaneously.

Easily adjustable shocks are an excellent option for streetcars, but offer a limited tuning window, and drag applications require a larger tuning window or multiple adjustments to tune performance.

Dual adjustable shock absorbers

Dual-adjustable shocks offer high-horsepower racers the versatility of separate compression and rebound settings. Why is that important?

With more adjustment options, you can adjust the compression and rebound exactly how you want it. For example, with softer shock absorbers in the front, your front end will come up more easily, transferring weight to the back of the car and allowing for better rear wheel traction.

The ability to independently adjust compression and rebound means you can change the speed at which the front of the vehicle returns to its ride height, helping you maintain traction.

The same thought process applies to the back of your car. The rebound drives the tire into the ground quickly and hard. But if your rear shock rebounds too stiff, you limit the amount of weight transferred to your rear tires, resulting in poor traction.

In turn, if the tire is resisting the downward force and wants to bounce back up when driving forward, you can use compression to keep it from bouncing into the fender like a basketball and staying on the surface of the track.

You need different rebound and compression settings to both achieve and tune your suspension.

Your 60-foot time should be consistent. With more adjustments available, you can tune your shocks to be consistent on every run.

Learn more about Are your dual-adjustable shocks really “dual-adjustable”?

Triple adjustable shock absorbers

Triple-adjustable shocks are considered a premium option for drag racing.

Pro Stock, Pro Mod and Top Sportsman teams looking to compete at the highest level can choose the suspension settings. As well as separate compression and rebound settings, they also feature different high- and low-speed compression adjustability, making it easier to tune for launch, lane transitions, and descents.

High-speed adjustment settings help control the chassis at launch and smooth out discrepancies on the track. Slow speed helps generate power between gear changes and during the run.

Triple-adjustable shocks are more suited to riders experienced in diagnosing and tuning suspension dynamics.

Are all shock absorbers the same?

A good damper should be precise, anti-fatigue and durable. Whether you buy and install single, double, or triple adjustable shocks, you are not guaranteed outstanding performance.

Is your damper manufacturer an industry leader at the cutting edge of damping innovation and design? Do the people who design and assemble your dampers have track, shop and problem solving experience?

You can ask these questions to the company you choose to purchase your shock absorbers from to ensure you are making the right choice.

Penske Racing Shocks offer options for every drag racer

These Penske 7500 Coil-Over Bracket Drag Shocks are high quality, American made and can be used in many applications. All Penske shocks are hand built to order specification and can also be customized to be dual adjustable, giving you quality shocks at a fair price.

The 8760 triple-adjustable version completes the set, allowing you to choose based on your unique needs and affordability.

Single and dual-adjustable Penske shocks feature hard-chromed steel shafts that offer strength and low-friction, lightweight and durable aluminum components. They feature up to 40 clicks (more options are available in the triple-adjustable version) of compression and rebound adjustments, allowing fine-tuning for different track conditions.

Let the drag experts help you

Build a long-lasting relationship and leverage the S3 process, which means you get Penske’s support in figuring out the shocks you need, ordering them, setting them up, and continuing to support them into the race season and beyond.

A ladder bar is a type of suspension unit that is installed on 4X4 vehicles to prevent wheel bounce on coil spring vehicles. When installed, the ladder bar attaches to the spring bar at the rear of the vehicle and then attaches to the chassis in front of the rear tires. When the driver steps on the gas pedal and the vehicle’s gas pedal is depressed and the tires begin to gain traction, if you have a ladder installed this will prevent the rear tires from jumping off the pavement. Wheel hopping has been shown to cause damage to the rear end, axles, body and chassis if a ladder bar is not installed.

When installed in an off-road vehicle, a ladder bar is used for better traction. By preventing the rear end of the vehicle and front axle from rotating, the 4X4 becomes more stable in poor traction situations. Installing a ladder bar also enhances the vehicle’s braking system by limiting the slip that a wrapped axle creates.

The length and placement of the ladder bar controls the center of the vehicle. The center point is an imaginary line running from the rear axle to the center of the chassis where the upper and lower control arms intersect. By moving the center point closer to the actual center of the vehicle, traction is improved as there is more downward pressure on the tires. If the ladder bar is placed in a shortened area, shifting the center will reduce vehicle traction. Ladder bar placement is critical when used in an off-road vehicle. Proper placement ensures the suspension provides better traction and reduces slippage.

The ladder bracket got its name from the chosen design. It consists of two long sticks with several small sticks in between. The end result is a design that resembles a ladder. A ladder pole tends to be wider at the back and narrower towards the top. A ladder bar attaches to the existing suspension system with rudder pivots and grade eight bolts. The decision to install a ladder bar can only be made by the owner of the vehicle; You decide for yourself whether a ladder bracket should be installed.

A ladder bar is a type of suspension unit that is installed on 4X4 vehicles to prevent wheel bounce on coil spring vehicles. When installed, the ladder bar attaches to the spring bar at the rear of the vehicle and then attaches to the chassis in front of the rear tires. When the driver steps on the gas pedal and the vehicle’s gas pedal is depressed and the tires begin to gain traction, if you have a ladder installed this will prevent the rear tires from jumping off the pavement. Wheel hopping has been shown to cause damage to the rear end, axles, body and chassis if a ladder bar is not installed.

When installed in an off-road vehicle, a ladder bar is used for better traction. By preventing the rear end of the vehicle and front axle from rotating, the 4X4 becomes more stable in poor traction situations. Installing a ladder bar also enhances the vehicle’s braking system by limiting the slip that a wrapped axle creates.

The length and placement of the ladder bar controls the center of the vehicle. The center point is an imaginary line running from the rear axle to the center of the chassis where the upper and lower control arms intersect. By moving the center point closer to the actual center of the vehicle, traction is improved as there is more downward pressure on the tires. If the ladder bar is placed in a shortened area, shifting the center will reduce vehicle traction. Ladder bar placement is critical when used in an off-road vehicle. Proper placement ensures the suspension provides better traction and reduces slippage.

The ladder bracket got its name from the chosen design. It consists of two long sticks with several small sticks in between. The end result is a design that resembles a ladder. A ladder pole tends to be wider at the back and narrower towards the top. A ladder bar attaches to the existing suspension system with rudder pivots and grade eight bolts. The decision to install a ladder bar can only be made by the owner of the vehicle; You decide for yourself whether a ladder bracket should be installed.

A four-link suspension uses links to move the axle side-to-side and front-to-back while allowing it to move up and down and articulate. We have to agree with the current majority that a four link suspension with coils, coilovers, quarter elliptics or air springs is definitely cool and that is the most common argument for building your own setup. The problem arises when you think you know what you’re doing and just start putting bars and links under your truck. Just because you’ve seen it on a race truck or rockcrawler doesn’t mean you need it for your weekend wheeler, although we have no problem building one just because you want to try it.

There are some definite advantages to running a four-bar linkage, but getting it right takes time, money, and then some more time and money. We hope to give you a realistic overview of a basic four-link rear suspension, but first the pros and cons of building one. The choice is yours, but please consider everything before you begin. The fact remains that a well designed and tested four-link link offers superior power transfer to the ground and a higher ride quality than leaf suspension. The secret is really in the testing part. If you are building a four bar linkage on your rig then be prepared to refine it and tear it apart a few times before it works properly. And during this testing period, we wouldn’t recommend driving it to work at 60mph on the freeway. You might get lucky the first time, but if not, remember that taking apart and rebuilding your truck is fun.

considerations

The biggest question when building a four-bar linkage is how long the links should be and where they should be attached to the frame and axle. This alone determines how the axle pushes the vehicle, whether the rear of the vehicle lifts or buckles when accelerating, whether the rear axle pivots and steers as a result of the wheel buckling movement, and how the body rolls around corners and over obstacles. The desired amount the vehicle performs for each of these things depends on what the vehicle is designed for (going fast, cornering, crawling, articulating) and how the driver wants the vehicle to respond over different terrain. There is no one right way to build a four-link, just like there is no perfect off-roader, but it can be tuned to do certain things better than others.

For most truck owners, an all-round four-link is the wish, but that won’t necessarily be the best rockcrawler, desertjumper, and mudbogger suspension. In addition to all the geometry involved in designing a four-link, there’s also the issue of what actually fits on the vehicle you’re building. Will the framework support the links where you want them? Do the fuel tank, exhaust, cross members and driveshafts all fit the links and allow for proper articulation? Unless you’re building a truck or buggy around the suspension, plan on making some compromises to get the best possible setup. If you like the idea of ​​keeping the leaf springs, we don’t blame you. If you’re up for the challenge, stay tuned for next month as we begin the technical part of the build.

Until then, you’ve got some homework to do. You will need a tape measure, calculator, graph paper and a pencil to round up. Now measure your wheelbase and determine the height of the tires you want to run on your rig. Then, with the truck on level ground, measure the width of the rear axle just inside the brake mounting plates and the height of the frame at various points between the axles along the frame rails. Next, find the height of your pump mount’s top center bolt to the floor. Also, start researching where to buy the materials mentioned below. Just keep in mind that you’ll want to wait until you read part two of this story next month before attacking the problem with the four links under your truck.

See all 9 photos See all 9 photos

Benefits of a four-link suspension over a simple leaf-spring suspension include control of axle wrap, better descent angles, control of axle travel, and reducing the uncontrolled variables of axle movement to just spring rate and shock valving. Additionally, a four-bar linkage can also allow for more suspension travel and articulation, which can provide more traction, although we find too much of either can cause problems. Weight is also a problem for the modern wheeler, as excess weight saps strength. Although a coil spring is lighter than a leaf spring, the weight gains are minimal when you factor in the weight of the links and brackets and everything else.

See all 9 photos See all 9 photos

The main advantage of a leaf spring suspension over a four-link suspension is cost and maintenance. It will take more time and money to remove leaf springs and design, build, test and rebuild your four link link than just fitting a good leaf spring and that’s if you do it yourself. With retail prices ranging from $25 to $75 an hour, a professionally made four-bar linkage will take a serious bite out of your wallet. We also saw some very impressive leaf sprung suspensions that allow for plenty of travel and articulation.

See all 9 photos See all 9 photos

Material is an important factor and concern for strength and safety. Depending on how low you mount them on the axle, your lower links could hit trail obstacles. We therefore recommend no less than 1 3/4″ DOM ​​tubing with 0.25″ wall thickness. If your truck is a full-size or extremely heavy, or if you plan to mount your shocks on the forearms like some race trucks, consider going to an even larger tube size, or even better, the 1 3/4 x .25 with slightly larger piece of pipe. The top links are less likely to be hit by rocks and the like, but we still recommend nothing short of .120 wall, 1 3/4″ DOM ​​tubing.