Sewing Machine Thread Tension Spring? Best 51 Answer

Learn how to use the tension devices on your sewing machine and how to thread for proper tension.

Don’t stress yourself out trying to find the right thread tension on your sewing machine. Here’s what you need to know about setting and adjusting thread tension controls.

Many seamstresses avoid the tension regulators on their sewing machines like the plague, confident that making adjustments will only make the situation worse. In fact, there is nothing mysterious about setting and adjusting the thread tension on your sewing machine, regardless of make and model. What is possibly even more confusing is that many seemingly voltage-related problems are caused by factors other than improperly set voltage regulators.

Let’s take a closer look at how to identify and correct “tension” problems, with and without changing tension settings.

Jigs and proper threading

You can’t get proper tension without proper threading.

All machines basically have the four tension devices shown: thread guides, tension discs, tension regulator for the upper thread and bobbin case spring for the lower thread. These ensure that the same amount of thread flows from the needle and bobbin at the same time, creating a symmetrical stitch.

Get to know your clamping tools

In order to form a row of stitches that look the same on both sides of the fabric, the same amount of thread must flow from the bobbin and bobbin at the same time. This is accomplished by passing the threads through various tension devices, including the thread guides, tension discs and tension regulator on the machine head for the upper thread(s) and the bobbin case spring for the lower thread. Some machines have a small hole in the bobbin case finger that allows the bobbin thread to be threaded through to increase tension for improved stitch definition in topstitching, satin stitching and embroidery without changing your tension settings.

The tension discs and tension regulator together are called the tension assembly. The tension discs squeeze the thread as it passes between them, while the tension regulator controls the amount of pressure on the discs. On older machines there are only two tension pulleys controlled by a screw or knob. On newer models, there are three pulleys, controlled by a dial or keypad on the front of the machine, that can regulate two threads at once.

In any case, the tension regulator is elementary: If you set it to a higher number (turned clockwise), the discs move closer together and thus increase the pressure. Turning it to a lower number (counterclockwise) moves the discs apart, reducing the pressure. Using thicker thread without readjusting the dial will increase pressure and decrease upper thread flow unless you have a newer machine that makes automatic upper tension adjustments. Since the coil tension is not self-adjusting, the lower tension may need to be adjusted manually to adjust it.

In addition to guiding the thread along its path, each thread guide applies a small amount of resistance to the thread and increases the tension from the discs to achieve balanced tension. Bottom Line: Always make sure all guides are threaded before sewing.

The flat bobbin case spring puts pressure on the thread as it comes out of the bobbin case. The amount of pressure is regulated by a small screw on the back of the spring. Both the spring and the screw are easy to find if the machine has a separate bobbin case. If the machine has a drop-in bobbin spool with a built-in bobbin case, locating the tension screw can be more difficult. Both types are shown in the drawings below. In either case, to increase the resistance, use a small screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise (to a higher number) or counterclockwise (to a lower number). Turn the screw in small increments and never more than a quarter turn between tests. This helps you keep track of how much you’re changing your settings and reduces the risk of losing that little screw.

As with tension regulators, as thicker threads are passed under the coil spring, the pressure increases. To avoid fiddling with the bobbin case screw, many sewers (myself included) have two bobbin cases: one set for general sewing and the other to adjust for less commonly used threads.

Recognize balanced tensions

When the tensions are balanced, the seam will look good on both sides of the fabric, as shown above in the image below, and the seam will be the strongest and most elastic. The easiest way to spot an unbalanced tension is to look for any visible knots or loops at the end of each stitch. If the bobbin thread appears on the right side, the needle tension is too tight or the bobbin thread is too loose as shown in the left figure below. If the needle thread is on the wrong side, the needle tension is too loose or the bobbin thread is too tight as shown in the right figure below. Of course, when sewing on thin or light fabrics, both threads can be visible on either side if the tension is balanced, simply because the fabric is so thin.

Tensions may still need adjustment even when balanced. If both tensions are too tight, the seam may pucker or easily break when stretched (test this on the more stretchy cross fiber with a seam of at least 6 inches). If both are too loose, the seam will be patchy when pressed open, exposing the threads between the sections.

How to set the tension

There are two types of tension adjustments, a basic adjustment for everyday sewing (this is done by your repair man when adjusting the tension, but you can do this as well) and a temporary adjustment needed when changing thread types or sizes, fabrics , and sewing.

To make a basic adjustment, choose contrasting colors of a thread in the brand, size, and fiber you use most often. Use one color to fill the bobbin and set the machine to medium speed to reduce the risk of thread stretching. Snap on a new needle of the size you use most often and thread the machine using all the thread guides on the machine head, but skip threading the eye on the bobbin case finger if you have that capability.

Set the stitch length to 2mm (12 stitches per inch) or whatever length you expect to use most often. Set the upper tension dial to the middle of its range (4 or 5 on most machines) and sew a test stitch on two layers of light muslin, then check the stitches. If necessary, use a magnifying glass to see the stitches clearly. If the tension is not perfect, correct it by adjusting the coil spring. tighter when the bobbin thread is visible on the top layer and looser when the upper thread is visible on the bottom layer. Make another test stitch and examine the stitches. Repeat the process until the stitch is balanced.

Once your stitch is balanced, start with a tension log in your sewing machine manual, noting the thread brand, size, type, and number on the top tension dial that created a balanced stitch. Then draw a picture showing the location of the bobbin screw, like the example below, to use as a reference when you need to record a change in bobbin settings for specific yarns.

To make a temporary tension adjustment, select the threads for the needle and bobbin, then fill the bobbin and thread the machine. Make a test stitch on the fabric you want to sew, examine the stitches, and then see if you can find a balance with the top tension assembly alone.

Whenever you switch from your standard sewing thread to a different thread, first thread your sewing machine and test your setup to see if you can get away with a temporary adjustment with just the tension regulator. If that doesn’t work, get out your second bobbin case and move the screw quarter turns to loosen or tighten as your pattern dictates. Using lighter-than-normal thread for both the needle and bobbin tends to keep the tensions balanced, even though both are lighter. This is often just what you need to avoid puckering of light fabrics, so adjustment may not be needed. A thicker thread at the top and bottom will both increase tension, and you’ll likely need to set a lighter tension to pick up heavier fabrics.

Do not touch this dial

So many things can affect voltage that it’s worth going through the following checklist in the order presented before reaching for the voltage regulator:

• Machine Incorrectly Threaded: Incorrect threading is responsible for more tension problems than any other factor. Did you use all thread guides? Did you thread with the sewing foot down so that the thread does not slip completely between the tension discs? Does the line unwind freely from the spool or does it catch on the slash on the spool? Are you using a spool as a bobbin (which can interfere with thread flow)? Is the bobbin installed correctly?

• Improperly filled spool: Remove all line on the spool before winding new line. Wind the bobbin according to the machine instructions so that it winds evenly with the correct tension. Remove any thread from the outside of the spool. Wind at a constant, slow or medium speed, especially with polyester and nylon threads, so that they do not stretch; They will relax in your seam and cause wrinkles.

• Dirty machine: Lint and thread tails that have got stuck between the tension discs, under the throat plate or around the bobbin case and bobbin increase resistance and impede thread flow. “Wipe” a light, lint-free cloth between the tension discs and check the bobbin area for thread tails and lint.

• Damaged machine parts: Bent needles and bobbins as well as rough or damaged surfaces on the needle eye, thread guides, tension discs, thread lever, needle plate, sewing foot, bobbin case and in the bobbin area can cause problems. If you drop a metal spool on a hard floor, throw it away even if it looks good; the slightest damage can distort the tension. Avoid damaging the bobbin tension spring by cutting the thread near the housing before removing the bobbin. Raise the presser foot before removing the thread from the upper tensioner.

• Needles, threads and fabrics: Different thread sizes and types on the upper and lower spool can affect basic tension settings. A needle that is too big or too small for the thread can also unbalance your stitches as the size of the hole increases or decreases the overall top tension. If you find organza, chiffon, jersey, lace, or blouse-thick silk or polyester gathering, switch to a straight stitch foot and needle plate and decrease the stitch length to 1.75 mm (15 M/in.) before following them voltage regulators.

This article was written by Claire Shaeffer and is extracted from thread #78.

Claire Shaeffer, author of Couture Sewing Techniques (The Taunton Press, 1993), writes about all levels of sewing in Palm Springs, California.

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Do you feel it?! After a long winter, spring brings our momentum back. For us, the beginning of spring feels more like a new year than New Year’s Eve. And while we love the warm, beautiful days we thought would never come, the bleak ones give us a chance to recover before life accelerates.

For inspiration on how to improve your well-being this season, we’ve rounded up some of our favorite spring reset tips:

1. Cook a new recipe using seasonal foods

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3. Add a pop of color to inspire joy

There’s a reason spring flowers make us smile: color is strong. Add color to your beauty routine with glowing lips, unexpected eye shadows or a kiss bronzer.

4. Reflect: Gratitude + Goals

For a journal entry that connects your past, present, and future, write about gratitude and goals. What are you proud of in the past year? What are you thankful for today? Then rejoice. Think of the goals you want to achieve and write down small, achievable steps to achieve them.

5. Change it

Even if we can’t see it every day, we keep growing. Reflect that energy by trying something new. Whether it’s a fresh perfume, a hairstyle, or that cat eye you never thought you could rock, the novelty will remind you of your fantastic evolution.

6. Find exercise you love

Get training back your way and ditch the punishment mentality. Aside from the physical benefits, any type of exercise helps your brain produce some feel-good chemicals. Learn how you love to move and work it into your day – post-meeting dance breaks are encouraged.

7. Set your alarm for a pump song

Defeat waking up on the wrong side of the bed with your favorite song. Dancing is also encouraged here.

8. Hydrate

Don’t be boring, but this one counts. Since 64% of our skin is made up of water, we need hydration to keep it glowing. Carry a reusable water bottle with you until it becomes second nature. And feel free to make it tasty: mix in an electrolyte powder, swap out still water for sparkling, infuse with fresh fruit, or try an herbal tea.

9. Exfoliate – then nourish

Think of it as spring cleaning for your skin. Gentle scrubs or masks help remove dead skin, keep our pores clean and prime for healing creams and serums. Try a chemical peel like AHA/BHA or choose an exfoliating cleanser. Remember: limit exfoliation to twice a week and make sure to moisturize your skin afterwards.

10. Plan an event

Nothing lifts our spirits quite like something to look forward to. The occasion? fun for its own sake. Organize the details, from a solo night out to a picnic with your girls, then prepare for an incredible time.

Check out our Birchbox Sustainable and Clean collection for new beauty and wellness treatments to incorporate into your routine this spring.

After sorting the products in the order you want, you can look through the list to decide which spring works best. You can find the spring by maximum load or maximum deflection. Once you’ve found the spring that meets your load and travel needs, you can check to see if the spring rate will match your workloads. In addition, you can check prices for different quantities by clicking on the quick view icon.

If you still need help deciding, select your springs and “Add to compare” by clicking on the two connected circles icon on each product. This is to be able to compare them side-by-side more efficiently. To go to the Compare Products page, find the link at the top of the page. Then just quickly add them to your cart to complete your order. If you need further help finding your springs, you can contact our team of experts to help you. Our engineers can help answer your questions and help you find the right spring for your application.

When to adjust the coil tension

We talk a lot about tension settings and tension adjustments on machines. 90% of the time we adjust the upper thread tension to get the perfect stitch. This time we’ll discuss the other 10%, the coil voltage. You may have been taught never to touch the coil voltage. We’re here to tell you it’s okay. It is not as difficult as we are led to believe. If you were told never to touch them, hopefully by the end of this page you’ll realize that adjusting the tension on your bobbin case is perfectly safe and easy. A simple failsafe is to have a second bobbin case that is never adjusted to maintain basic bobbin tension. But why not save $30 to $40 instead of buying a new bobbin case and learning how easy it is to make simple adjustments? Voltages can change over time with regular use. Even if you haven’t physically changed the settings, you can work your way into either tighter or looser. Threads, fluff and even the temperature can adversely affect them.

When changing, increasing or decreasing the bobbin tension, turn the large screw on the bobbin case in small increments. If you think of the big screw as the clock face, adjust the screw in 15 minute increments, test and re-adjust if necessary. We would like to address three cases where an adjustment of the coil voltage might be necessary. The first two are obvious, but the third might be a “never thought of that” alternative.

Tension discs control the pressure applied to the thread for an even feed to the machine needle, resulting in an evenly shaped stitch. On many newer sewing machines, the discs are hidden in the machine housing. Machines with hidden tension discs usually have electronics that control the tension on the discs. Always leave the presser foot raised when threading the sewing machine so that the discs are not engaged and can pick up the thread.

make adjustments

The sewing machine tension is adjusted when the bobbin thread and upper thread do not run evenly on both sides of the fabric. When sewing two layers of fabric, the intersection of the bobbin and upper thread should be between the two layers of fabric.

“Righty Tighty, Lefty Lucy” refers to turning the adjustment clockwise to tighten the upper thread tension and turning the adjustment counterclockwise to loosen the upper thread tension.

feed direction

If the upper thread is on top of the fabric without penetrating the fabric or not penetrating the fabric far enough to be even from both the bobbin and the upper thread, turn the tension counterclockwise to loosen the upper thread tension, which causes insert the threads into the fabric.

If the upper thread goes too far into the fabric or leaves the bobbin thread on the fabric, turn the adjustment to the right to increase the upper thread tension, which increases the upper thread tension and pulls the bobbin thread into the fabric.

Maintenance of tension discs

Always follow the information in your sewing machine manual. Clean the discs with a soft brush to prevent dust and lint from collecting between the discs. Always check for loose thread in the tension discs if adjustments make no difference.

Before I started sewing my jeans together, the MPB Jeans Sew-Along suggested testing the needles, thread and fabric first. Especially since I use heavy fabric and heavy quilting yarn.

Before beginning trial sewing, I consulted my sewing library for advice. Both Reader’s Digest Guide to Sewing and DK’s The Sewing Book have been silent on the subject of thread tension. I found some help on adjusting the tension in Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A to Z and in my sewing machine manual. So if you want to learn more about thread tension, your machine’s manual is a good place to start.

Sometimes when checking tension for machine and overcast stitches, I find it useful to have a magnifying glass handy to get a closer look at the seams. You can see how the top and bobbin threads wrap around each other, as well as how much bobbin thread is sticking out on top and vice versa.

topstitching

For both sewing and topstitching on the jean project, I use a #100 denim needle. It’s strong enough to go through fabric and the eyelet is large enough to accommodate the heavy topstitch thread.

I use #80 denim quilting thread from WAWAK Sewing and Tailoring Supplies (their house brand). I bought five spools in different colors – red, olive green, navy blue, black and for this project “Levi Gold”.

My machine’s top tension dial is numbered 0 (loose) through 9 (tight). The nominal setting should be 4. I made a series of test stitches starting at 4 and going up one number each time. The MPB Sew-Along suggested that higher top tension was needed to pull the bobbin thread through the heavy fabric. In addition, the thick thread naturally increases the lower thread tension. (I haven’t tried adjusting the lower thread tension because it’s a teeny tiny screw with no marks and I’m afraid I’ll mess it up.)

I started with the “normal” setting of 4, with each row of stitches one number higher.

Comparing the upper and lower threads, we see some pretty massive differences at the lower tension settings. At 4, the top stitch looks okay, but the bobbin ends have all sorts of loose, unsightly loops. As the top tension increases, the bobbin lace stitches look tighter and tighter until they more or less match the top seam at about 8. I suspect the best setting is the highest where the stitches on both sides match without being so tight that the top stitches suffer or the fabric starts to gather. So 8 is the setting I will be working with when working with the quilting thread.

Regular thread tests

I also use the #100 jean needle for regular seams. I use Gutermann all-purpose thread to match the navy blue denim. (For the test I used white to contrast the denim).

Again, I started with the “normal” setting of 4 and sewed each row one tension number higher.

Here the under and over stitches go together best when the tension is set to 6. The upper stitches suffer from this – the tension is so high that they pull up the entire lower thread, lose their shape and look like a zero line. So I will use 6 with the regular thread.

More information

I haven’t experimented much with more “normal” needle and fabric combinations, say an 80s needle with all-purpose thread on some cotton shirts. But I suspect that the tension settings on my machine are slightly off, for example a setting closer to “5” behaves like “4”. So if you’re going along, and especially if you have the same machine as me, you should do your own test stitches to determine the best tension setting for your project.