Shadow Gaps Around Doors? Trust The Answer

Maintaining a tight seal around your door can help keep unwanted air, pests, light, and water from entering your home. A tight seal can also help you save money on your energy bills all year round.

Weatherstrips, or the soft and flexible material in the door jamb and header, are easy to install and can have a major impact on your door’s performance, wicking away moisture and sealing your door system. But how do you know if your door needs new weatherstrips?

We have compiled a list of common symptoms of poor weatherstrip to help you diagnose a malfunctioning door.

1. You can see light around your closed door panel.

If you can see light and gaps around your exterior door, it’s a good indication that your weatherstrip needs replacing. These gaps could add to your energy bills by allowing heated and conditioned air to escape from your home.

2. Water is entering your home.

If you’ve noticed moisture around your door or door jamb, your weatherstrip is not doing its job. This excess moisture can cause damage to your door or interior of your home due to mold or rot.

3. Your current weatherstrip is bent, flattened or cracked.

As weatherstripping strips begin to age, the material can bend, tear, or compress to the point where the strip no longer seals. This can create gaps between your door and the door frame, causing unwanted drafts and water leaks.

The right weatherstrip should provide even compression all around your door, resulting in a long-lasting seal. In addition to protecting your house from external influences, the weather protection strip also increases the energy efficiency of your house. By preventing your conditioned and heated air from escaping your home and outside air from entering, you save money on your energy bills.

Installing the right weatherstrip is quick and easy. In six easy steps, our weatherstrip project guide will show you how to remove your current weatherstrip and install new weatherstrips to your door jamb and header.

handle

entry handles

bed/bath handles

passage handles

Lock

bars

twiddle thumbs

plug-in plates

A handle, knob or lever is the component of door hardware used to unlock the door panel and open or close it. There are many styles and finishes to choose from. There are three types of door handles: are operated with a lock barrel on the outside of the door and a push or turn knob on the inside. have a snap or turn button on the inside but no locking mechanism on the other side. A door latch is a shank that extends from the edge of a door panel into the door frame and secures the panel in place. When the handle is turned, the latch retracts, allowing the door to be opened. Similar to a latch, a latch is a shank that protrudes from the edge of the door panel and into the door frame, securing the panel in place. Interior doors are not fitted with deadbolts, and not all exterior doors have them either. Bolts are considered additional security and are usually set off from the handle set, which means that a door with a bolt requires an additional drill hole. Multi-point locking systems offer even more protection than a latch and deadbolt combination, and new home automation systems are available. A deadbolt is operated by turning a knob on the inside of a house and by a key cylinder on the outside. These plates increase the strength of latches, latches and the door panel, preventing forced entry.

Your door frame may seem pretty simple, but there’s more to it than meets the eye. In fact, most people tend to take their door frames for granted. While door frames can get tricky depending on what type of door you’re working with – interior and exterior, or sliding and patio doors – let’s assume we’re looking at an average front door frame and the basic door frame parts you use. I have to know it.

head and top rail

The head is the top of the door frame, sometimes called the “door head”. It can look simple or have a simple shape. It also includes a bottom edge stop as well as a weatherstrip to ensure the door closes firmly and creates a proper seal.

Located just below the head, the top track is the top section of the actual door leaf.

threshold

Located at the bottom of the door frame, the threshold is the area you cross to get through the door. It contains the entry bar.

The bottom track is the bottom section of the door leaf that moves across the sill. If you’re having weather sealing issues, your bottom track, sill and/or your sill may be to blame. Proper sealing between the door and threshold can result in a more energy efficient home.

Hinges & Fittings

Door frames come with lots of hardware. Here are some of the basic components:

Door hinges allow the door to be opened and closed.

The horn and retaining clips tie the frame to the rest of the wall.

King Studs & Jack Studs are used to connect the door frame to the rest of the house frame. These will be installed as per code.

Locks have their own specific hardware. Luckily we wrote about it here.

Posts & Edges

The jambs are the vertical components of the door frame on either side of the door. You can also hear them as hinge jamb (for the side with door hinges) and locking jamb (the side that contains the strike plate and works with the locking mechanism).

Margins (sometimes called “rabbets”) are the spaces between the door and the door frame. These are often important if you are having trouble with your hinge post. Again, these spaces can be divided into specific types: hinge margin, strike margin, top (head) margin, and bottom (sweep) margin.

Beyond the frame

Again, other doors may have components that we have not discussed. (Let’s not even get started on French doors and astragals). While we’ve covered the major framework components, here are a few more general elements you might want to know.

Enclosure usually refers to the inner frame, while Brickmould is the outer frame of your door frame.

For the sake of simplicity, we refer to the door leaf as a complete swing door. Keep in mind that others may use similar language to describe the panels in the door design itself (which often resemble window panes).

Sidelights are tall, vertical windows on either side of the door frame.

Show your door frame some love!

Now that you know more about the parts of your door frame, make sure you protect it from frame rot with the industry-proven FrameSaver®.

The humble baseboard has been a point of discussion for generations, with the many pros and cons often depending on the type of home you live in. If your current home doesn’t have baseboards some of the benefits may not apply, but alternatively there are a number of issues that adding a baseboard can solve.

In many ways, it’s easy to take baseboards for granted and feel like they MUST be in every home without really thinking about their benefits. Let’s face it, 99% of the time baseboards just sit there minding their own business and we’d certainly notice if they suddenly disappeared. But conversely, what do they offer if we don’t have them? And do they represent a practical and inexpensive home improvement? Well, let’s take a look.

What advantages do skirting boards offer?

In the past, skirting boards were installed to hide the gap at the bottom of a wall and floor joint that was left when a wall had been wet plastered and you couldn’t get a clean finish at the bottom. Architrave was used around doors and windows for the same reason. Today we use nice and clean machine cut plasterboard, but skirting boards are often still installed.

Skirting boards are also used to hide blemishes in plastered walls and where poor building techniques have left uneven surfaces. If your house doesn’t have baseboards, it’s reasonable to assume you don’t have this problem, but if you do, then baseboards are a clean and simple solution.

From a practical point of view, skirting boards protect the walls from vacuum cleaners, strollers, furniture, children in general and pets. This can be critical to the integrity of plastered walls, and while you may think it’s easier to avoid hitting the walls in the first place, you’ll be amazed at how many scuffs appear on your baseboards, when you have them attached. Also, skirting boards act as a barrier to moisture penetration from the walls, protecting against dust accumulation and loss of various small items. They also allow for occasional expansion and contraction of the plasterboard with temperature and humidity changes in a space.

What do I have to consider when attaching skirting boards?

It is true that many people prefer baseboards simply because of their historical details and because they “frame” a room beautifully. It is common to paint baseboards a different color than the walls to create contrast, which is a very contemporary design technique. With that in mind, you should always make sure that you paint the baseboards to match the room and also match the baseboards to the style of the room.

Skirting boards can match an era, such as B. Edwardian skirting, Georgian skirting, Victorian skirting or even contemporary skirting. In an old house, the skirting board is usually larger and more intricately designed, and as such is more of an important and prominent feature. Skirting doesn’t have to be old fashioned though, there are many modern styles to match carpet or polished hardwood floors.

You can also use baseboards to hide wires and cables from TVs, computers, gaming and audio equipment, so the positioning of these and when and how you install your baseboards is another factor to consider. Generally speaking, skirting boards usually need to be painted and can be a challenge to repair and remove, but overall we believe that skirting boards are an asset to a home, finishing off a room nicely and bringing many benefits.

Click here to see our full range of skirting boards.

Are you designing a brand new nest and feel like it’s time to shake things up a bit in terms of style? Skirting boards are key to protecting your walls and floor joints from scratches and dents caused by the normal wear and tear of your home.

These also help keep connections stable because, although you might not notice it, all houses vibrate a little — and materials expand and contract with changes in temperature. However, nowadays there are some alternatives to skirting boards with great decorative – and functional – potential.

Whether you’re renovating or looking to start from scratch, check out these three different ways to replace traditional baseboards.

1 – For a contemporary ambience – shadow gap or shadow gap strip

This trend has become very popular in recent years. Many developers with a knack for modern, minimalist architectural styles would suggest floater paneling when time, budget, and design goals align.

A shadow gap – also known as a shadow line – is a linear horizontal gap of approximately 10mm that extends along the planes of the walls. Visually, it creates streamlined, continuous surfaces. Structurally, this also allows and dampens the vibrations of walls and floors and avoids the dreaded cracks.

It’s very important to remember that if the work isn’t up to standards, there’s no way you can walk away with great finishes. No room for error with this skirting board alternative!

Because working around metal shadow lines requires detail, it must be balanced during the design and construction phase. The “easiest” way to nail down the look is to get a formed line that already comes with the gap, install it and let the plasterboard sit on top of it.

2 – Wooden skirting boards – An alternative to skirting boards for small spaces and low ceilings

The primary function of wood battens is to support and evenly distribute the weight of a structure. They’ve been around for a long time, but it’s not common to see them as skirting boards. Thin and semi-circular, it is worth using them as an alternative to baseboards. As they take up very little wall space, small rooms or homes with low ceilings can benefit! Some homeowners even choose to add wood moldings next to their baseboards to provide extra protection, smooth the transitions, and hide gaps between walls, floors, and baseboards.

3 – No skirting boards – is that even an option?

As we told you at the beginning of this guide on different skirting alternatives, there is more to skirting than just looks. These moldings help block bumps and prevent dents, but also absorb some of your home’s natural vibrations, preventing cracks and other problems that can affect your property. If in doubt, discuss this with your builder or interior decorator!

We encourage you to get creative and find the best option for your home. If you choose the versatility, durability and low maintenance costs of an MDF skirting board, let us guide you through the process of selecting and purchasing skirting boards.

The top tip of the skirting shop

Before making a final decision, always check if you need to run cables behind the baseboard – this would require the baseboards to have a different internal profile.

Most craftsmen will have a good understanding of what architrave is, but while it’s a key feature of most British homes, many people feel in the dark when it comes to this particular piece of home décor.

In this guide, we’ll answer the question “what is architrave?”, explore where the term came from, and explore how best to use architrave in your home design.

What is architrave?

The architrave is most commonly seen as a molding between the door and wall and as such is often incorrectly referred to as a door surround, door panel or door frame. Architraves can be made from a variety of materials, usually using different species of wood.

The architrave found in most homes dates back to classical Greek architecture, from the word ɑːkɪtreɪv, meaning ‘main beam resting over pillars’, and may also be associated with the Greek word epistyle – which roughly translates as door frame is translated.

In its modern interpretation, the architrave is seen as a molding used to frame rectangular openings in houses. These are most commonly used around doorways, but can also be used around other types of rectangular openings in homes, such as B. Window.

Although the term architrave dates back many centuries, it was the Tudors who used the architrave as we more commonly see it today – with wooden architraves around doors and windows.

Since the Tudor era we have seen different types of architraves and today you can buy architraves in almost any style you want and in a variety of materials and finishes.

Why use architraves?

You may be thinking, why is it necessary to use architraves? The simple answer is that it’s not a necessity, but there are many reasons why you should consider it as part of your interior design.

The main reason is for style and decoration. Architraves can be used to add style to a room and can be seen as more than just a finishing touch. It can really enhance the character of a room and help bring it into the style you are looking for – from various traditional eras such as Edwardian, Victorian or Elizabethan to more contemporary styles.

In addition to the decorative effect of architraves, there are also numerous practical advantages.

The joints between the door frame and the wall can often be quite unsightly with small gaps that can widen as they shrink. Architrave can essentially be used to cover up these types of gaps and can also do the same job where the wall meets the ceiling around a door.

All outside corners are also likely to be subject to knocks, bumps, kicks and scrapes, and solid architraves stand up to these much better than bare plaster, which can chip and scrape easily.

What is architrave made of?

Architrave is made from a variety of different materials, but MDF, softwood and hardwood are the most commonly used.

At Meters Direct we supply architraves in quality MDF and solid oak and have over 55 styles of each.

What type of architrave should I choose?

The style of architrave you choose will depend on the style of home you have or want to design.

Modern homes tend to use more square or rounded styles of baseboards and architraves such as bullnose or chamfer styles. These modern styles can include layers to add depth and style, but these layered styles are usually squarer in nature.

More traditional architraves tend to have more curves and cuts, with ogee and ovolo being popular profiles. Again, we stock over 50 different styles at Meters Direct and there should be something to suit all tastes.

How to best use Architrave in your home

As already pointed out, architrave is often used around doors, but there are a number of other uses for it.

We’ve already mentioned that the architrave can be used around any rectangular opening or room in your home, so it can be used wherever there is one to frame and visually enhance that space. It used to be more common than now to find architraves around windows, but there is again a growing trend for using architraves around windows in historic properties.

Adding architraves to modern windows is also something we see more often in interior design and it can be used really well when trying to create a statement window or creating a focal area. If you have a room with a particularly spectacular view, you may want to draw more attention to it by framing it with an architrave. A design point that works really well with architraves is shutters on windows instead of curtains – although blinds work really well with this design tip too.

Skylights are another room where we usually see some type of architrave and this type of hatch room should not be ignored. If you’re updating the architrave around doors in a landing or hallway area, consider using the same style around your loft hatch as well.

Similar to an attic hatch, built-in closets or storage areas built into the eaves can benefit from an architrave surround.

If you are looking for architrave for your home then take a look at our complete architrave collection here.

It’s true that the professionals in the building and carpentry world tend to use different terms to describe things that would be exactly the same to most people. However, when it comes to the question, “What are architraves?” We feel the need to jump right in and share with you the basics of these basic molding pieces.

In this article you will find answers to the most frequently asked questions about architraves. What they are, what they are for, how to choose them and more!

Let’s start with the obvious…

What are architraves?

Simply put, architraves are molding strips that are fitted around the doors and windows of your home. If you pay attention, you’ll notice a line connecting your floors, doors, and window jambs. This “line” consists of skirting boards that run horizontally and seal the gap between your walls and floors, and architraves.

What are architraves used for?

Attached around door frames and windows, architraves are used in pretty much all residential and commercial buildings. In fact, their function is mainly decorative as these do not keep your door and window frames static. However, they enhance the style and decor of any room by giving a finished and streamlined look.

However, it is important to say that just as we pointed out the importance of baseboards earlier, architraves are still very useful for much the same reasons as baseboards.

Are architraves important?

Architraves can hide unwanted defects between the connections of your window and door frames to the walls. Homes suffer from expansion and contraction due to temperature changes, differential humidity and vibration, sometimes resulting in gaps or cracks that can become more visible over time. Of course, if a house is extremely damaged, an architrave will not fix it! But the key point here is that architraves help protect and hold together doors and window frames.

Another protective function of frames is that they protect door frames from bumps, bumps and hits. If you move things around your house or if the little ones are frantically running from room to room, you will appreciate the usefulness of your architraves!

What is the difference between door frames and architraves?

Some of the parts of a door frame are the casing – also known as the door panel – jamb, header and sill. These elements vary depending on the position of the door frame and the specific style and design of the door. The most important thing you need to know is that the architrave is only one of the many parts of door and window frames as it is the part that surrounds them!

Because of this, most people consider the architrave to be the finishing touch. That’s because once the main structural pieces of the door frame itself are set and ready to go, it holds the aesthetic of the space together!

In summary, the door frame is the supporting structure that holds the wall opening together and where the door sits, and the architrave is the decorative molding around it.

Should architraves be thicker than baseboards?

Short answer: No! The thickness of your skirting boards must match that of your frame! This is to create a harmonious and smooth look around your home. However, you can choose a different style or profile for your architraves, preferably as long as it is part of the overall interior design.

If you accidentally buy frames or skirting boards in different widths, it’s not the end of the world! To fix the messy look you can either get a socket block to create a transition between both strips or sand the back of the thickest one. This situation might not be ideal, but if you’re a handyman, you can definitely fix this annoyance!

How to choose architraves?

Essentially, you need to be clear about your interior design goals, your budget, and the size or scale of the job. Are you facing a massive home renovation? Is your home Victorian or Edwardian? Do you have a clear idea of ​​the profile style of your skirting board?

Also, as explained above, you need to make sure the thickness of your moldings match before you buy!

Finally, you should also pay attention to colors. You can apply some of the ideas we share in this article on painted skirting boards to your frame palette!

We hope you’ve enjoyed our easy-to-follow guide, What Are Architraves? Find out more about our entire range of profiles and designs here!

Contact our team and learn more about skirting boards, baseboards and window sills. Call us on 0800 048 0786 or simply email us at [email protected]

Glossary of Terms

architrave

An architrave molding is sometimes referred to as a door header. It is the top horizontal trim piece above the door. It will be wider and thicker than the case. You are not mitering the casing around the door when using architrave. The case comes up each side of the door and bumps into the bottom of the architrave. Architrave moldings have a very classic appearance and can come as a one-piece form or often be constructed from three or more separate panels.

back strap

The back band is a decorative border that is applied to the outer edge of the case to add depth and breadth to the case detail. It has a folded edge that fits into the back of the case.

base plate

The skirting board connects the wall and floor and provides a visual basis. It protects the walls from impact and cleaning. The skirting board should complement the style of the case and should be thinner and wider than the case. Shoe mold often accompanies the baseboard when the floor is uneven or there are gaps between the baseboard and the flooring.

baseball cap

A base cap is used as a decorative piece that is placed on a gauge board on the floor to create a two piece baseboard. Floor caps are also commonly used as decorative panel moldings.

bed shape

A bed form is similar to a crown or cornice form, but smaller.

brick shape

Brick molding is an exterior trim for doors and windows. It’s quite thick, allowing siding or brick to butt against it.

burlap

Burlap is often used to cover the join line between two parallel flush surfaces. Burlap are sometimes referred to as batons and are symmetrical in design.

cap shape

A cap shape is a generic term for a molded part designed to cover something. Examples would be a fairing cap shape and a head cap shape. A head cap shape is similar to an architrave, except you miter the case on all three sides of the door and then add the cap only on the top part for a more neoclassical look.

Housing

Enclosures are used to dress doors and windows. It covers the gap between the drywall and the stud. The casing is often the most prominent feature in your home and should be thicker than the baseboard. To increase the width and depth of the case, you can add a back strap.

build the case

An enclosure assembly consists of two or more molded parts that are joined together to provide a more customized look without the expense associated with a custom finish. You can often achieve a specific look by combining and layering multiple strips.

chair rail

Chair Rail is attached to the wall parallel to the crown and base. It is often installed about a third of the way up the wall, but can reach anywhere from 28″ to 36″ up the wall, or even higher if a wall is being clad for wall wainscoting. Chair rail offers a traditional colonial look and can separate two wall colors in the room. Its original purpose was to protect the walls from the backs of chairs, but is more commonly used for visual effect.

corner blocks

Often referred to as rosettes, corner blocks are decorative blocks placed in the top corners of door and window frames. If you are using corner blocks, you do not need to miter the case as it will butt against the corner blocks.

bay shape

Cove Mold is a concave inside corner and is available in different sizes depending on the application. Larger haunches are used as crown or cornice moldings. Smaller fillets are used as inside corners for protection or to hide a rough or jagged edge.

crown shape

Crown moldings are placed where the ceiling and wall meet to give a room a dramatic and elegant look. Crown moldings are also known as cornice moldings, cove moldings and bed moldings.

Decorative shape

Decorative moldings are used for various decorative applications in all areas of mill processing.

doorpost

Door jamb is the square wooden frame around the three sides of the door or four sides of a window. The housing attaches to the sides of the post. The stud is available in a variety of standard widths to accommodate the 2×4 or 2×6 walls plus the thickness of drywall on each side of the wall. The doorstop attaches to the front of the jamb to prevent the door from swinging the wrong way.

door stopper

Door stops are attached to door jambs to prevent the door from swinging in the wrong direction. Door stops are commonly used for other decorative trim including shoe molding applications for baseboards.

Fluted molding

A fluted molding is often a wider and symmetrical case with vertical grooves cut into it. Fluted molding is sometimes referred to as a pilaster or fluted pilaster. Common applications include cladding at front entrances and large and accentuated decorative windows. Grooved strips should not be mitred. It is used with a top header skirting board and bottom skirting blocks.

half round

Half Round has a 180 degree half circle profile and has many uses in milling.

railing

A handrail is used as a safety rail for support in a stairwell. The handrail can be attached directly to a wall or mounted to spindles or balustrades and connected to a post at the top and bottom.

keystone

A keystone is an architectural accessory placed in the center of the architrave above doors and windows. A keystone is similar to the wedge-shaped stone used in masonry as the final piece at the top of an archway.

nosing

A ledge is commonly used at the top step and landing of stairwells. It is the part that protrudes above the vertical riser. Nosings often have a groove in the back for hardwood floors to engage at the top of the step or stair.

outside corner shape

An outside corner mold is used to protect an outside corner as an outside corner protector. It is also used to hide rough or jagged edges on an exterior wall corner.

plate shape

Panel form is a decorative panel applied to the wall to add visual relief to the wall. The panel form is often accompanied by a chair rail. Panel moldings can be used on the entire wall surface or partially on the wall. With the panel strip placed on top, the 4 parts are mitered together to form rectangles and applied to the wall surface. For sunken panel applications, it has a rabbeted edge to accommodate the style and rails of the panels. The style and rails are the vertical and horizontal pieces for the wall covering. In sunken panel designs, the panel shape is often referred to as a bolection shape.

socket block

Skirting Blocks are another accessory that is similar to Corner Blocks, except they are placed at the bottom of the door frame where the door frame and baseboard would normally meet.

quarter round

Quarter Round Molding is a 90 degree inside corner molding commonly used for shoe molding or other applications where two adjacent surfaces meet.

clapboard shape

A clapboard molding is another decorative molding that can be used for many design applications. Traditionally it was used as an external molding around window frames or on the sloping roof of a building.

shoe shape

Shoe lasts are used where the floor and baseboard meet. It is often referred to as a quarter turn. Other substitutes for Quarter Round are clapboard forms and doorstops. Shoe molds are necessary when floor surfaces are uneven or when there are gaps between the baseboard and the floor surface.

stair climber

The riser is the vertical part of the staircase. Open risers have no risers and are open through the vertical portion of the stair.

stair spindle

A spindle is commonly referred to as a baluster. Spindles and balusters are the vertical supports that connect the handrail to the stair.

stair step

The stair step is the actual stair step that you walk up the stairs on. Solid wood steps are typically 1-1/16 in. thick. Carpet stairs typically have 1-1/2 inch thick pine treads or 1 inch thick plywood for angled stairs. When cladding carpet stairs with wood, you can remove the carpet and cover the steps with a wooden step cover. Wooden step covers are manufactured in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit any staircase.

threshold

A sill is used at the bottom of an exterior door between the jambs. It covers two different floor coverings or closes a gap between the floor and the door. It is usually beveled or tapered.

transition stripes

A transition strip helps to join two different floor coverings together and hides rough or irregular seams. It can also merge two different flooring heights for a smooth transition. With different floor covering heights, the transition strip is often referred to as a reducer.

paneling

Paneling is used as a decorative relief applied to wall surfaces, usually between the chair rail and baseboard. Paneling can be in the form of tongue and groove siding, shadow box siding, recessed siding and raised siding.

windowsill / stool

The sill or stool is the lower part of a window. In applications where a stool is used, the stool protrudes above the cabinet and an apron or apron molding is used underneath. Window stools or window sills offer a very classic and finished look to a window but are not always used.

What is a shadow gap when installing sound absorbers?

When installing our aixFOAM sound absorber panels, we usually recommend using a shadow gap, but what exactly is that and why is it useful?

A shadow gap is generally a gap between two components (or sound absorbers) that optically separates the elements from each other.

In architecture, for example, it is used for visible paneling or wood paneling. This can, for example, reveal a different colored background between panels or along an adjacent wall or ceiling, creating an interesting visual effect.

Why is a shadow gap useful when installing sound absorbers?

There are a number of good arguments in favor of using a shadow gap when installing sound absorber panels.

Optical aspects of a shadow gap

All aixFOAM sound absorbers consist of a highly elastic porous material. This makes the elements very effective sound absorbers. However, the material also has a certain elasticity, which can lead to slight visible differences between the individual absorber panels. This natural deviation is called tolerance, which is even described in a separate DIN standard (DIN 7715 Part 5 P3).

If the individual absorber panels are now glued directly to one another, the possible differences between the panels – even if they are extremely small – become clearer. In order to achieve an even laying, it is recommended for optical reasons to glue all sound absorbers with a shadow gap of at least 2 cm.

We recommend using a shadow gap, especially with classic egg carton foam systems. Due to the many projections on the absorber panel, it is almost impossible to position two panels together without a visible transition.

A shadow gap is also useful for our FELT sound absorbers with felt covering. Otherwise, the different fiber directions of the felt fabric (especially with marbled colors) can result in an uneven image.

More effective sound absorption through edge effect

The shadow gap not only influences the appearance of the sound absorbers, it also changes their acoustic properties.

The installation of a shadow gap increases the absorption surface of the elements, since the sound can hit the absorber from several sides. This “edge effect” improves sound absorption.

Some of our aixFOAM sound absorbers, such as B. the SMOOD box absorber, have flattened (beveled) edges, which means that the sound hits the absorber from all sides even when installed without a shadow gap. Thus, at least acoustically, a shadow gap is optional when installing these absorbers and depends solely on the aesthetic preferences of the viewer.

Installation recommendation for aixFOAM sound absorbers

This overview contains a summary of installation recommendations for our aixFOAM sound absorber panels.

What is the best way to mount the sound absorbers with a shadow gap?

In order to achieve an exact and uniform appearance when installing the sound absorbers, first plan the arrangement of the absorbers carefully. Sketch them in pencil on the wall or ceiling. Align the reference edges with a spirit level or preferably with a laser.

When sketching the absorber arrangement, make sure that the pencil lines are later completely covered by the plates or can be easily removed.

As a guideline, the shadow gap should have a minimum width of 2 cm.

One of our customers has documented the ideal installation process with his absorbers using a shadow gap.

We support you in the selection and installation of your sound absorbers.

If you have any further questions about installing our aixFOAM sound absorbers or installing a shadow gap, please contact our acoustics consultants. We will be happy to help you with a free consultation.

Shadow Gap™ planks make it easy to incorporate one of today’s hottest design trends into your next project. These planks have self-spaced shiplap edges for perfect placement every time. Shadow Gap™ planks can be installed directly onto studs, over rock slabs or most existing interior walls.

Nominal Dimensions: 2.5cm x 20.3cm x 4.6m Solid Pine, primed and ready to paint, reversible, for indoor use only

Cornice is a term that is familiar to most people when we think of buildings or renovations. The connection between a wall and ceiling offers an opportunity to really seal a space’s statement, breaking away from a traditional white ceiling with a white molded cornice that we’re seeing in new builds in and around Perth.

Like any component of a building, you want to look cohesive and fit the overall style, era, and location while being mindful of connecting the interior and exterior.

Familiar ceiling and cornice treatments can range from our standard white moldings we find in new construction to the more intricate ceiling rosettes and decorative cornices associated with historic homes.

Shadowline ceilings and cornices give a room a different look and feel because they are designed and installed slightly differently.

Are you designing a brand new nest and feel like it’s time to shake things up a bit in terms of style? Skirting boards are key to protecting your walls and floor joints from scratches and dents caused by the normal wear and tear of your home.

These also help keep connections stable because, although you might not notice it, all houses vibrate a little — and materials expand and contract with changes in temperature. However, nowadays there are some alternatives to skirting boards with great decorative – and functional – potential.

Whether you’re renovating or looking to start from scratch, check out these three different ways to replace traditional baseboards.

1 – For a contemporary ambience – shadow gap or shadow gap strip

This trend has become very popular in recent years. Many developers with a knack for modern, minimalist architectural styles would suggest floater paneling when time, budget, and design goals align.

A shadow gap – also known as a shadow line – is a linear horizontal gap of approximately 10mm that extends along the planes of the walls. Visually, it creates streamlined, continuous surfaces. Structurally, this also allows and dampens the vibrations of walls and floors and avoids the dreaded cracks.

It’s very important to remember that if the work isn’t up to standards, there’s no way you can walk away with great finishes. No room for error with this skirting board alternative!

Because working around metal shadow lines requires detail, it must be balanced during the design and construction phase. The “easiest” way to nail down the look is to get a formed line that already comes with the gap, install it and let the plasterboard sit on top of it.

2 – Wooden skirting boards – An alternative to skirting boards for small spaces and low ceilings

The primary function of wood battens is to support and evenly distribute the weight of a structure. They’ve been around for a long time, but it’s not common to see them as skirting boards. Thin and semi-circular, it is worth using them as an alternative to baseboards. As they take up very little wall space, small rooms or homes with low ceilings can benefit! Some homeowners even choose to add wood moldings next to their baseboards to provide extra protection, smooth the transitions, and hide gaps between walls, floors, and baseboards.

3 – No skirting boards – is that even an option?

As we told you at the beginning of this guide on different skirting alternatives, there is more to skirting than just looks. These moldings help block bumps and prevent dents, but also absorb some of your home’s natural vibrations, preventing cracks and other problems that can affect your property. If in doubt, discuss this with your builder or interior decorator!

We encourage you to get creative and find the best option for your home. If you choose the versatility, durability and low maintenance costs of an MDF skirting board, let us guide you through the process of selecting and purchasing skirting boards.

The top tip of the skirting shop

Before making a final decision, always check if you need to run cables behind the baseboard – this would require the baseboards to have a different internal profile.