Show Sticks For Pigs? All Answers

Pig shows are a popular American pastime where we express our passion and are rewarded for our skill and dedication. These shows allow breeders to see how their stock compares and learn from other professionals. Younger contestants also have the opportunity to earn money for college by raising and showing off pigs. And one of the best parts of the whole experience: Pig shows allow enthusiasts from all over the region to connect with one another.

Competitors have two options for leading their pigs through the show ring. You can use a heavy wooden stick or a light, flexible show whip.

Exhibitors find that using a show pig whip instead of a stick allows them to stay close to their pig during competition and gives the judge an unobstructed view of the animal. Showwhips don’t get as dirty as sticks and don’t hurt the pig. Many competitors believe that pointing with a whip rather than a cane indicates they have better control over their pig, control built up through many hours of working with the animal at home.

Use of a pig whip during competition

The sooner you start working with your pig and get him used to the pig whip, the better. It takes time for the exhibitors to get used to using the whip and for the pig to understand what the whip means. When holding the whip, don’t grip it like a pencil. Grasp the handle between your thumb and forefinger. Don’t hit your pig with the tip, use light taps to maneuver it. Teach your show pig that a very light tap between its flank and shoulder blade means moving forward. A light touch of the whip behind the ear teaches the pig which way to turn.

Teach the pig to walk with its head at shoulder blade level, giving the appearance of a long, structurally sound pig that will draw the judge’s attention. Pigs are smart animals that respond best to pressure and are easy on the training style. For example, if you are teaching your pig to turn to the right, gently tap behind its left ear until the pig moves to the right. Once the pig moves to the right, stop typing, which will reward the pig for its good behavior. Most pigs respond quickly to the pressure and relief method of training.

Show hog whips are preferred by competitors raising and showing: Duroc pigs, Hampshire pigs, Berkshire pigs, Chester White pigs, Landrace pigs, Poland China pigs, Yorkshire pigs and Blue Butt pigs . Competitors prefer these pig breeds for shows as they tend to have an easygoing temperament that makes them easy to handle, have a steady rate of weight gain and are known for their good conformation. All of these breeds are traditional breeds favored by traditional pig breeders.

Choosing the perfect show pig whip

Everyone has their own preferences when it comes to their favorite show pig whip. Some like a longer, more flexible shaft, while others prefer something that feels more sturdy. Some people like one type of grip material, and others resent working with a whip that doesn’t have a rubber golf grip. Some competitors prefer pig show whips with a popper, while others prefer tassels. When choosing your show pig whip, make sure the handle of the whip fits your hand comfortably and the whip feels balanced. Before you buy, handle the whip a lot and make sure your hands don’t get tired.

Here are a few pig whips to consider before you and your pig enter the show ring.

The DW whips are a nice range of pig show whips. They’re designed to last for multiple years, have just the right amount of flexibility, and don’t distract the judge from your pig. DW whips come in a variety of lengths, ranging from a junior length with a 27″ long shank, all the way up to a 48″ shank.

The Easy Touch Whip features a soft tassel at the end of the shaft that encourages pigs to raise their heads. The whip’s flexible shaft is strong enough that exhibitors can use the same whip for practice at home and in the show ring. Each Easy Touch Whip features a 10″ rubber golf grip handle. The tassel is available in different colors.

The 6″ popper on the end of each Hog Show Whip not only helps propel show hogs through the arena, but is also interchangeable, extending the number of usable years you get from this double braid poly material show whip. The easy-to-grip handle is molded and features a chrome-plated end cap and ferrule. Hog Show whips are available with 36″ or 39″ shafts. The Hog Show Whips are available in several colors.

There are no rules that say exhibition equipment has to be boring. Hog Show Whips with Bling are perfect for exhibitors who want to shine while showing their hog. The 6-inch popper is replaceable and the whip’s double-braided poly material is attractive in the show ring and durable for practice sessions at home. Hog Show whips with bling are only available in black.

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The perfect pig whip not only makes it easier to handle the pig in the ring, it also boosts your confidence, making it impossible for the judge to take his eyes off your pig. You can always tell which pig exhibitors have been worked with and which have not, based on how well the pig responds to cues. It’s amazing how a beautiful, well-trained pig – weighing over 330 pounds – will respond to a simple slap of the whip. The earlier the training process begins, the better your show pig will do.

Post by kat3311 » Mon Dec 04, 2017 7:16 pm

I have to recommend Sullivans, I once had a weaver whip that broke after a day’s use. A 39 or 40 inch should be the right length, it all depends on how tall you are and how big the hog is.

“If you can laugh at yourself, you’ll have entertainment for a lifetime.”

The ideal show stick length is no secret, yet so many seem to make the mistake of buying the wrong size. Why are they making this mistake? Simply, the choice they made is perfectly logical.

The secret

Here’s the trick… the length of the show stick is more about the size of the cattle than the showman… most of the time. Especially if the showman is small.

The dilemma

You’re at a show, standing in front of the supply trailer and looking at the mass of show sticks, all wrapped in plastic. Next thing you think, “I don’t even know where to start.”

I’ve seen this process many times while waiting to snag a can of paint or glue. It can be daunting, especially since many parents are unsure of what size or color to bring back to the stalls.

Young showman

Imagine this 9 year old little blond girl showing off her Hereford heifer. We’ve all seen them. She’s in the show ring, just cute as a button. Someone has carefully braided her hair, she wears a cute little sweater, pressed jeans and cute little boots.

Her number harness is adjusted to fit her thin little body. Not an easy task, by the way. In short, she does her best and looks good. Her heifer, although a bit stubborn because she is a Hereford, behaves perfectly for her.

Every detail of her presentation has been taken care of, right down to her cute little show stick. wait what Cute little showstick? Then everything collapses. What is the ideal show stick length for you?

everyone grows

What we haven’t addressed is the fact that her heifer is an autumn yearling that our little daughter shows in the spring. Of course when our little blond showman got this heifer this show stick seemed right and honestly it worked well because they were all small.

But as they will, the heifer started to grow, leaving her little showman in her 70-pound frame. Still don’t see the problem? Let’s get back to the show ring.

Our showwoman knows that she has to put her heifer’s hind leg back. She bends over and stretches to reach the under-leg with her show stick. She pulls the heifer’s head with her.

At best it’s just an unattractive image when the heifer’s head is pulled around towards the little girl as she grabs that leg. However, the heifer is more likely to respond the way it was trained… If pulled in a direction, its body will follow. Most likely she will either step out of line with her front end or swing her hip out of line. Anyway, we set up this little showman for unnecessary frustration.

Ideal show stick length

A show stick for each showman should be long enough so that he can comfortably reach the hind legs of the cattle he is showing. Our boys have never performed with a racquet smaller than a big one. Granted it’s a bit unwieldy at first, but they adapt to what’s given them. When they’re small, realistically, they can’t even hold on to the rubber grip portion of the stick while they’re scratching.

Like a baseball bat, when they’re little, they just have to choke. If they choke on the stick, it better balances the weight and makes it easier to handle. I like the carbon fiber poles for the simple fact that you can get the extra length in a pole with a nominal weight gain.

Great showman

Perhaps even worse, our frustrated little blond showman is the awkward image of a burly young man emerging with a medium-sized show stick. Gosh, I hate to quote Tommy Boy, but I can’t shake the “fat man in a little coat” comparison.

Even though he’s a basketball player whose arms are long enough to reach out with that little racquet, he just looks weird. This boy needs an extra large show stick. Mom and Dad, please get him a new stick!

I’m only 1.70 m tall and I always perform with an extra large racquet. I’m sure there are so many small and medium sticks being sold because it seems logical that if we get them ‘cute little’ of everything else then it makes sense that the stick is the same. Not the case.

Interested in more tips? Cash

Dress for show ring success

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Are you a young exhibitor or just small?

Think you need a short showstick? Guess again!

People often put a shorter showstick with a smaller extender because it looks balanced and proportionate, but the opposite is true. You actually need a longer stick so you can better reach the loin and hind of your calf. However, if you are tall, you should stay in the medium to large range.

The information above is a good starting point, but as Kirk Stierwalt said, “It’s probably better to be a hair too long when choosing your show stick, as you’ll run into problems if it’s too short.”

If you buy a show stick that is the right length for you and your calf, it will be a lot easier to show your calf with confidence!

Since I’ve been breeding pigs, I’ve always done it on clay soil or in the pasture.

On my farm, keeping pigs like this only makes sense. We raise most of our pigs in the summer when they are rarely in a barn. Only a three-sided shelter is necessary at this time of year.

In winter we keep a breeding sow. She sleeps in a barn on a dirt floor heavily thatched with straw.

Ask anyone which method is best – raising pigs on concrete or soil – and you’ll find that it’s a hotly debated topic. Everyone has an opinion!

After having some difficulties with farrowing this year, we began to wonder if a concrete floor would be better.

Here are some reasons why you should breed pigs on concrete. I’ll also give you some considerations to take with you, should you decide to do so.

Reasons to breed pigs on concrete

1. Keeps them cleaner

Believe it or not, about 99% of all pigs raised in the US are raised indoors, usually on concrete. In other words, they never see grass, dirt, trees, or the sun.

This obviously isn’t the best way to raise pigs, but there’s a reason for it. It keeps them a lot cleaner.

When you raise pigs on concrete, you eliminate the “mud” factor.

There’s not much to worry about which, especially when it comes to handling or slaughter time, can be quite cumbersome. If you breed your pigs using artificial insemination, the extra manure can also be quite unsanitary.

2. Prevents digging and rooting

As a consequence of the last point, rearing pigs on concrete also eliminates the likelihood of natural behaviors such as rooting and digging.

There’s nothing for them to push around with their snouts, so you don’t have to worry about your pigs digging out of their pens with their snouts.

You also don’t have to worry about acres of pasture being destroyed (or your vegetable garden if they come out!).

3. Can be washed with water

A pigsty that is poured onto a concrete slab not only stays cleaner because there is no mud, but it is also easier to remove manure.

You can use a shovel for the manure and extra bedding, and since there’s a hard bottom, you can remove it quickly. You can also use a front loader if you have access to one on your farm.

Many people also clean the concrete floor with water. This makes it easy to handle even in the winter months.

4. Easier handling during farrowing

Our biggest concern with raising pigs on earth rather than concrete is that it will be difficult to deal with at farrowing time.

If you have a concrete slab there is a firm floor which makes it easier for your sow to position herself so she doesn’t roll on her piglets. The floor is absolutely flat.

You just can’t level the floor unless it’s made of a solid material like concrete (and using other materials like wood will make it susceptible to rot).

Add that, as you know, pigs like to burrow and farrowing becomes quite difficult and risky if the ground is not firm.

5. Necessary for show pigs

In fact, The Pig Site recommends breeding show pigs on concrete whenever possible. It is recommended that it should slope 1 or 2% towards a drainage area and be finished with a power trowel.

This prevents your pigs from slipping on wet floors and also allows for the use of bedding without your pig making a mess.

What should be considered when breeding pigs on concrete?

Rearing pigs on concrete is the standard for most commercial pig farms. However, there’s really no denying that doing so deprives them of many of their natural instincts and behaviors.

Raising pigs on concrete is fine — but be sure to follow these tips.

1. No mud for temperature control

One of the biggest advantages of breeding pigs on concrete is also one of the biggest disadvantages – there is no mud. While there’s less chaos to deal with, there are also some significant challenges to deal with.

Pigs cannot sweat and cool themselves with mud on hot summer days. Without mud, they’re more likely to get sunburned (if they have access to an outdoor concrete slab rather than a dirty area). This can lead to many other health problems.

Therefore, you need to put in some kind of cooling and ventilation system to keep your pigs cool on hot summer days. Some people install sprinklers in the barn to take care of this.

If your pigs don’t have access to mud, be aware that they will be more likely to try to turn their drinkers around to use the water as a coolant. You must do something to prevent this, e.g. B. anchor the water trough to the wall.

2. Plenty of fresh linens

If you breed pigs on concrete, you’d better make sure you stock enough bedding. Without the right bedding, your pigs can get sores, painful joints and lameness that are difficult to reverse. You wouldn’t want to lie down on a bare concrete slab – so why force your pigs to?

3. Daily scraping and cleaning

Regarding the last point, the bedding you use will need to be scraped and removed frequently. Depending on how many pigs you have and how much space you have, that could mean every single day.

This can quickly become a tall order, so make sure you have the tools, time, and funds to handle it before you commit to raising your hogs on concrete.

If you don’t do this, not only will it stink to high heaven, but it will make your pigs more susceptible to parasites, respiratory problems, and other problems.

4. Provision of sufficient space is a must

Of course, you should always give your pigs as much space as possible. This is regardless of whether you grow them indoors or outdoors.

However, remember that you need to be even more careful when raising pigs in a barn on concrete.

They don’t have access to the same benefits as pasture hogs (like all the vitamin D from the sun and soil!) and overcrowding can lead to problems like fighting. Crowded pigs are more likely to fight each other for space and are more likely to get bored.

If you raise your pigs in a sty on concrete, you may find that you need to take preventive measures like tail docking as your pigs are more likely to bite and bite each other.

Unfortunately, raising pigs on concrete can cause some foot and leg problems if not done properly. Osteochondrosis is one such problem that leads to the destruction of your pigs’ leg muscles, bones and tendons. Mycoplasma arthritis is another such condition.

You can usually prevent both by bedding your animals deeply and avoiding overstocking.

6. Restricts natural behavior

Again, raising pigs on concrete robs them of many of their natural behaviors.

This includes things like rooting and what I call “digging up” the ground for tasty larvae and bugs. Of course, for some people who breed pigs, this is ultimately the goal – to prevent destruction as much as possible. Just keep in mind that it’s not the most natural way to raise pigs.

Raising Pigs on Concrete: Is It Right for Me?

The decision to breed pigs on concrete is ultimately a personal choice. It works fine for some people. However, for many, keeping pigs on a clay soil, or ideally on pasture, is the better way.

Consider the various pros and cons of each option before committing. Over time you will find a method that works best for you and your animals.

It’s no secret that once you’ve brought home your new show prospects, your young exhibitors are anxious to get down to the barn, get to know each other, and blow them broke. However, with anything worth doing, there is a process that must be followed and when working with small show pig projects, patience and consistency are key.

“I’m a big believer in butchering pigs at a very young age,” said Jackie Lackey, a partner at Lackey Livestock in Haskell, Texas, and mother of Weston and Grant, who show pigs competitively across the country. “We have a routine from the start and try our best to stay consistent to mitigate the formation of bad habits and dealing with it from a young age has been successful for our family.”

Lackey offers some tips on bringing home new show pig projects, taming them, and propelling them into the winners’ circle.

you tame

Lackey said the first few weeks to 10 days that her pigs are home are spent domesticating the pigs and getting them used to the people around them and their surroundings. Young showmen Grant and Weston will spend a lot of time sitting with them in the pigsty for the first week so the pigs get used to it. They will also spend time leaning over the fence or bending over the pens before feeding time scratching the pigs’ heads, all positive interactions. Once the pigs get used to the people, these people will slowly and gently introduce a whip into the pigs – over the fence and then into the pens so the pigs learn to respect the whip and not fear it.

“Our goal is for our pigs to have a positive interaction with us every time we enter the barn. They generally calm down fairly quickly. Regardless of age, every pig in our barn is treated like a show pig,” Lackey said.

Of course there are some pigs who are not so easy to tame. When that happens, Lackey reminds exhibitors not to rush the process; that only initiates the creation of bad habits. Spend some extra time with them at the pen, or take extra time with them on the wash rack – the best place to calm a tense pig.

“Breaking pigs only gets worse when you have to break bad habits. Our goal is never to develop a bad habit—a pig that runs, a pig that backs down, a pig that fights or bites the whip, one that wants to lower its head. If you’re patient enough to master one step at a time, you’ll save yourself a lot of time in the long run,” Lackey said.

Once the pigs are tame, the Lackey family begins their daily driving lesson. Her daily routine includes driving the pig straight from the pen to the washing rack. Every time the gate opens, the pig’s head should be like they’re going into the ring at a show, never put their heads down or let the pig walk. You rinse them with gently running water in the wash stand every time they come out of the pen. Then they lead her back and forth down the center aisle of the barn for a few laps, using the whip gently. Weston and Grant work to teach the pigs to respect them and the whip by staying in the middle of the aisle and not getting too close to the stalls on either side.

Next Steps

The pigs have become tame, have gotten used to the young exhibitors and have learned to drive from the stable to the washing rack. Now it’s time to prepare her for the show ring and master the art of whip use. Lackey said they have a big lawn outside of their barn where they take them to learn how to run in big circles and to build endurance for the bigger Texas majors. It is imperative for these pigs to take long strides and do long laps; just like they should do in a show ring.

The lackeys do not recommend small pens or tight spaces to walk your pig. You need to learn how to get out and move, stretch out and use your back leg. Confining them to small spaces makes their pace more choppy and creates a bad habit of turning too tight in both exhibitor and hog.

When you start walking your hog in big laps around a large exercise area, it’s okay to use two whips to stay in control. This will help the pig walk in a straight line with its head held high. Oftentimes, when smaller children have to reach over a pig’s head with a whip to get its head up, they are not tall enough to do so, and so the pig turns into the exhibitor, disrupting its natural forward walking pace.

Another tip that minions hold dear is rewarding good behavior. “If pigs come out and do a great job, even if it’s only 3-4 minutes, they get hung. We don’t wear out our pigs.” Often exhibitors aim to walk their pig for a specific amount of time, rather than just walking them to a point where they know they did well and responded to what the exhibitor has requested from you. A young pig may not endure so much exercise and will start fighting and get tired. This immediately teaches bad habits and leaves room for new problems. A pig that is trained consistently should develop enough stamina to last as long as necessary in the show ring,” Lackey said.

Lackey said the quality of the exercise is more important than the amount of time you walk your pigs each day, and adding exhaustion for both the pig and the kid only makes things worse. So work on your pig until you’re both happy it did a good job, then reward it by putting it back in its pen to prevent these bad habits from forming.

Another thing she really works on with her own kids is proper whip positioning, which can help break the bad habit of a pig running with its head down before it kicks off. The whip should be parallel to the side of the pig’s face or under its chin to keep its head up. And you should never hit your pig hard enough to hear the whip.

“In today’s show ring environment you can’t compete successfully unless your pig walks with its head held high, but it has to be natural. Teaching a pig to drive like that starts all over again. I know our pigs are broke when they confidently and comfortably walk out with their heads held high and respond to the boys without actually having to touch them with the whip,” Lackey said.

Keep it fun

After all, make it fun and make sure everyone involved is patient. If a parent is not a patient person, find a mentor or someone who is patient to coach your young exhibitors. And don’t be afraid to help your children; Remember, it’s easier to break a habit than it is to break one.

“When pigs get frustrated and kids get frustrated, it’s not fun anymore and we’re not productive anymore,” Lackey said. “The key to raising pigs that ride in the ring like rock stars is getting it right from day one, every time you take them out, aiming for positive experiences for both the kids and the pigs and the whole Time to be consistent.”

For more information on feeding your pig and accessories you need for your show pig, visit https://surechamp.com/getting-started-with-show-pigs/.

My son recently cut his head and was described as “bleeding like a pinned pig”. What is the origin of this phrase?

You probably don’t want to read this if you eat breakfast, especially bacon and eggs.

And you probably already know that the phrase means “bleed profusely.”

According to Oklahoma State’s Ag in the Classroom website and several others, the expression comes from the slaughtering process of stabbing or slitting a pig’s throat to drain the blood.

The Okie website also defined several other pig-related terms:

High on the hog – The best meat is on the top of the hog that rich people ate. Low on the hog are less desirable cuts such as hog feet, chitterlings and greaves.

Step on the bucket – pigs were hung upside down by one foot from a pole called a ‘buchet’ by the French. If the pig’s throat was cut, it would lash out and inevitably kick the bucket as it died.

Let the cat out of the bag – At medieval markets, unsavory traders would sell someone a pig, put it in a bag, and then trade the bag for one with a cat on it.

Pig in a poke – A pig in a poke or maybe a cat. The point is to check what you are buying. And don’t trust medieval merchants.

There is no doubt that showmanship can make the difference in your success in the show ring. One of the main principles of a good show is how and where you use your whip on your show pig. It is important that you focus on these four key points:

1. Hold on!

It is important that you have a firm grip on your whip. Use your index finger and thumb to apply pressure. Never hold your whip like a pencil.

2. The “Go Button” is on the side.

Judges like to see your hog move at a good, steady pace, so knowing how to get your hog moving is important. In order to ask your pig to walk, you need to find the Go button, which is between the shoulder and the flank. Never smack your pig on the butt, hocks or head to get it to move. The Go button is on the side.

3. Apply the guidance system.

To make your pig turn around, tap the opposite side you’re asking it to move. Tap the right side of the head to go left and the left side to go right.

4. Cheer up!

After all, to maximize your pigs’ presence in the show ring, you want them to keep their heads up. Use the momentum of your whip under her chin to get her head up. All pigs react differently and practice makes perfect.

Watch as Josh Brockman and our Make Your Own Luck Showman demonstrate how to do your show pig whip.

Click here to watch more of our Mark Your Own Luck videos.