Small Hole Hay Nets For Horses? The 127 Detailed Answer

Horse owners tend to have as many opinions about right and wrong as there are blades of grass in the field. But most riders agree on one thing: hay is for horses. The type you choose and how much you feed may vary from horse to horse (as it should!), but there are a few best practices that should come into play no matter what type of hay you’re feeding or on which horse.

Safety comes first when horses are fed hay

We all agree on one thing: Horses need high-quality hay that is free of dust, mold and foreign bodies. Have your hay tested regularly (every few months or so) by your local agricultural advisory board to determine quality. You should also do a daily quality check with your eyes and nose to detect any abnormalities. Quality hay should be green and smell sweet, not dusty, faded, or moldy.

Always untie square bales as soon as you break a bale apart to inspect its contents before feeding. The string or plastic that ties hay bales together is irresistible to some horses, who may chew on it out of boredom – or even ingest it whole. This can lead to very serious health problems for horses, from mere discomfort caused by swallowing (and if lucky passing through) a long piece of string or plastic to impaction colic. For this reason, it is imperative to cut, double and knot both cords so horses cannot accidentally put a foot through or attempt to eat cords should they escape from the garbage bag.

Feed horses hay often

Hay can be a true superfood for horses. It’s one of the most common – and easiest to obtain – feed sources and can also do a world of good to support a horse’s digestive system when fed properly.

That’s because hay can closely mimic horses’ natural feeding and digestive patterns. Horses need to eat small amounts of feed almost constantly. Hay, which provides fibre, nutrients and vitamins in a relatively low-calorie dose, can be fed all year round in this way, giving horses without grazing the opportunity to eat like their ancestors. Even horses that are easy to care for can benefit from frequent access to hay if they are fed correctly.

How to safely feed horses hay

In order to get the maximum benefit from hay, it is important to provide it as often as possible. Free choice hay is ideal. If you have an Easy-Keeper, you should avoid high-protein alfalfa and clover hay, which are higher in calories than mature timothy or grass hay. You might also consider double-bagging an Easy-Keeper’s hay net so he has to work harder to get to the hay. Otherwise, you should observe these general principles when feeding:

If the ground is grassy and relatively dry, consider feeding hay on the ground to mimic the way a horse grazes naturally. However, if your soil is sandy or gritty, elevate the hay when feeding over a hay net or manger, as horses can ingest sand or gravel, which can cause impaction colic. Also, consider placing mats under netting or mangers to provide extra protection when horses are poking at the inevitable bits of fallen hay.

Don’t just throw a big round bale in the middle of a horse field and expect everyone to eat from it. The pecking order dictates that the horse that is lowest on the totem pole does not get as much food as the tyrant.

If you have a pecking order problem, separate your problem horses in fenced paddocks. Or consider making several different haystacks in the same paddock spaced 15 feet or more apart.

promote movement. Frequent exercise (again, mimicking the action of all-day grazing) helps horses’ digestive systems work more efficiently—another good reason to spread hay into several separate piles.

If you’ve ever wondered whether or not you’re feeding hay properly, imagine the diet of your horse’s ancestors. Are you feeding hay slowly, consistently, and without grazing fights? Then you’re probably doing it right to help your horse maintain a strong and healthy digestive system.

Was this article helpful? For more like this, join our email list to be notified of new articles and get exclusive access to the FREE downloads in our e-book library.

Slow-feed horse hay feeders have seen a dramatic rise in popularity over the last several decades. And given the clear advantages, that’s no wonder. Reduced hay waste, better horse weight regulation and better digestion are just a few of the benefits these feeders offer. If you would like to better understand how slow feeders reduce hay waste, click here.

However, as with any new technology, it’s important to be on the lookout for unintended side effects. In recent years, various photos and posts have circulated on horse forums, Facebook and other platforms showing dental damage in horses reportedly caused by slow feeding of hay. Reports like these have raised an important question among concerned horse owners: “Are slow eaters bad for horses’ teeth?”

Damage like this has raised questions about some types of slow feeders, particularly those with metal grilles

PC: McKinlay & Peters Equine Hospital on Facebook

Are slow eaters bad for horses’ teeth? – The short answer

In general, slow feeders aren’t bad for a horse’s teeth as long as the slow feeder’s design doesn’t include a steel/metal mesh. Feeds that appear to have a higher risk of causing dental damage in horses are those that contain steel mesh or other metal elements between the horse’s mouth and the hay. Slow feeders with mesh rope nets show almost no damage, while feeders with woven polyester nets (like this one) have no known examples of tooth damage. Before we jump to conclusions, though, let’s take a closer look at some of the issues raised.

Dental problems associated with horse hay slow feeders

There are a number of concerns that have been raised regarding slow feeders for horse hay. These include:

Worn Teeth

Grooves or other unusual wear patterns caused by the repeated movement of the horse’s teeth against the surface of the feeder. This is generally reported on hard surface feeders, particularly those using metal mesh. It has also been occasionally reported on some mesh/rope feeders, although it appears to be less common.

Obvious tooth wear from a slow feeder

PC: Ruth Harms on Facebook

chips or fractures

Damage to the enamel surface of horses’ teeth has been reported. This could include chipped enamel or fractures in the tooth itself. In the worst case, there are even some reports of a tooth chipped off completely.

Damage caused by a metal slow feeder

PC: Judy Nielson Bell on Facebook

Pulp Horn Infections

Some vets have reported seeing pulp horn infections, which they attributed to certain species of slow-moving hay eaters that wear down their teeth too quickly.

Gum and lip injuries/infections

In rare cases, there have been reports of lips and gums developing injuries/infections caused by the horse’s gums rubbing against a feed trough when attempting to pull out hay.

Alleged feeder damage to gums

PC: Slow-Feeder Research and Data Collection on Facebook

Slow feeders with metal grilles appear to be the design most to blame for these incidents. The general consensus among veterinarians and the majority of horse owners is that the only slow eaters that pose a significant risk of dental damage are steel rust slow eaters. In addition, it appears that underlying risk factors may make certain horses more susceptible to tooth damage or other dental diseases…

Other factors that contribute to tooth damage in horses

Complicating the question of whether slow hay eaters are bad for horses’ teeth is the fact that there are numerous other factors that can affect horse dental health. Sometimes the same issues that lead to a horse’s slow feeding can also put the horse at higher risk for dental problems; Examples are endocrine diseases or stereotypical behavior. Some risk factors that are known to contribute to dental problems in horses are:

Excessive Dentistry

When it comes to horse tooth floating and other dental procedures, it’s certainly possible to overdo it. Power tools in the hands of an overzealous equine dentist can result in more surface area being removed from a horse’s teeth during routine dental work. A recent study found that excessive dental treatment makes horses 5 times more likely to suffer from certain dental conditions. If a horse’s teeth have already been compromised during dental surgery, it can make them more susceptible to additional damage from a poorly designed slow feeder.

Too much dentistry can actually damage a horse’s teeth over time

Endocrine diseases and laminitis

There is evidence that digestive and other health issues can be risk factors for some types of dental problems in horses. While laminitis itself is not known to cause dental problems, there appears to be some overlap between laminitis and those that are more prone to excessive tooth wear from slow feeding. PPID and EMS, two conditions known to contribute to the occurrence of laminitis, may also double the risk of certain dental diseases in horses. On the other hand, slow feeding is one of the most important tools in the treatment of laminitis, so it is important not to shy away from slow feeding in high-risk horses, but simply to find the right feeder and monitor tooth wear.

Diet with only alfalfa

Horses fed alfalfa hay are about twice as likely to develop some types of dental problems. As most horse lovers already know, a low-chew, high-sugar diet is a recipe for dental (and digestive) problems in a horse. Even with slow feeding, it’s important to make sure the hay you choose for your horse has enough fiber and fiber to encourage the horse to chew properly. Additionally, if your horse is known to be sensitive to sugar, it’s a good idea to have your hay tested for sugar levels.

Carbohydrate-rich feed can lead to dental problems in some horses

periodontal disease

A side effect of inadequate chewing (chewing) during feeding is the increased risk of periodontitis. While periodontitis is technically a dental disease in its own right, it can also contribute up to 5x to other dental diseases. If a horse doesn’t graze or chew enough during feeding times, it can lead to food packaging, bacterial growth, and other nasty things that can contribute to periodontal disease. Luckily, slow feeding can actually help prevent this by encouraging chewing patterns that resemble natural grazing.

stereotypical behaviors

Negative behaviors such as biting and chewing on wood/plastic/metal are usually symptoms of an underlying problem. However, these behaviors can be hard on a horse’s teeth. Horses exhibiting this behavior can also abuse their slow feeders and contribute to tooth damage. (More on that below.)

Biting (bitching) and other stereotypical behaviors can lead to tooth damage

Can a Slow Hay Feeder Actually Improve Horse Dental Health?

There is strong evidence that slow feeding can actually provide an overall benefit to horses’ teeth by managing or eliminating some of the dental risks caused by other underlying medical conditions. Slow eaters in particular can:

Reduce the risk of periodontitis

While the disease is believed to be caused by a combination of gingivitis and food compaction due to misaligned teeth, there is also evidence that lack of grazing may contribute. The saliva stimulated when a horse grazes is believed to help bathe the teeth and prevent excessive accumulation of food. Slow feeding helps mimic some of the benefits of grazing by encouraging horses to ingest a steady stream of feed throughout the day rather than in bulk at feeding times. This can help stimulate saliva production and keep teeth healthier.

Helps control endocrine disorders (EMS and PPID)

Slow feeding can help prevent and/or control some of the feeding problems associated with these diseases. Combined with low-sugar hay, slow feeding can help reduce obesity and regulate the horse’s absorption of non-structural carbohydrates, both keys to preventing/treating laminitis and the underlying diseases that cause it. Proper treatment of endocrine disorders not only reduces the risk of laminitis but also protects your horse’s teeth by reducing the risk of other dental problems.

Remember that it is important to know the sugar levels in the hay you are providing to horses at risk. Sending a hay sample to a forage laboratory is the most accurate way to determine the non-structural carbohydrate content of your forage.

Slow Feeders can help treat/prevent various health problems in horses

Reduce stereotypical behaviors

This is where slow feeders really shine. Stereotypical behaviors that are hard on the teeth (like cribbing) are usually triggered by underlying issues. Many of these problems can be reduced by feeding slowly. Stereotypical behaviors can be caused by:

boredom

If a horse doesn’t have enough positive activity, it may turn to negative behavior to keep itself busy. A slow feeder gives a horse a healthy energy drain by allowing him to nibble throughout the day.

stomach ulcers

A horse’s digestive system is designed to eat constantly. In fact, they need a steady flow of saliva to buffer the acid naturally produced by their stomach. When horses sit too long between meals, the acid in their stomachs can cause ulcers, which in turn can trigger other negative behaviors. Feeding them slowly ensures they eat evenly and protects horses’ stomachs from ulcers and the side effects they cause.

Emphasize

Elevated levels of the stress hormone cortisol appear to contribute to stereotyped behaviors. Stress can be caused by numerous factors, but diet-related stress is one of the most common. If horses have to wait for long periods of time without access to food, they may begin to develop food-related anxiety about their next feeding. This stress can lead to further negative behavior in the horse. With a slow diet, constant access to food can help lower cortisol levels and prevent bad behavior.

This horse would rake its teeth over the bars of its stall in stereotypical behavior…probably a major cause of this damage

PC: Jen joins Facebook

Because biting, windsucking, and other “stall vices” are so hard on teeth, alleviating or eliminating them can help protect your horse’s dental health.

Choosing a slow feeder design to protect the horse’s teeth

There is a wide range of horse feeders available including numerous slow feed options. So which slow feeder is the best? That’s a big question that deserves its own article, but we can break down the different slow feeder types into 5 main categories. Let’s look at which slow eaters best protect the horse’s teeth.

Metal slow feeders

These slow feeders are NOT recommended as they have been consistently proven to cause tooth damage. Stay away from metal slow feeders; It’s not worth risking your horse’s teeth when there are so many other good options available.

Avoid feeders with such metal screens

PC: Judy Nielson Bell on Facebook

Hard plastic slow feeder

These feeders, which can be designed as buckets or balls, are much better than metal and are generally considered safe. However, the hard surface can wear down on the teeth over time. If your horse is already at risk for dental problems, you should steer clear and choose a different type.

A hard plastic feeder

PC: infohorse.com

Mesh/rope slow feeder

Whether you feed show horses or retirees, this is one of the most popular and well-known slow feeder designs. They are made from a variety of materials, including nylon and nylon/poly blends, and can feature a knotted or knotless construction in the mesh. There is almost no risk of tooth damage with these troughs, although some horse owners have noticed slight grooves in the horse’s teeth after months or years of use.

A small slow hay net

Rubber slow feeder

Although less common, particularly in the United States, some feeders use rubber netting or “fingers” to dribble feed hay. (This design is better known in the UK.) With soft rubber there is virtually no risk of damaging horse teeth.

A hay feeder with a rubber slow feed fence

PC: Orchard Equestrian

Slow feeder made of woven polyethylene mesh

Of the horse slow feeder designs popular in the United States, this seems to be the design best suited to protecting the horse’s teeth. Woven polyethylene mesh slow feeders are generally manufactured as black square-hole nets, usually in sizes from 1 inch to 3 inches. The polyethylene webbing used in these feeders is strong and durable, but has not been shown to cause dental damage in horses.

Polyethylene mesh slow feeders come in all sizes, from small bags to hold a tuft of hay to covered slow feeder designs that can handle an entire large bale of hay. Speaking of slow eaters, do you think a horse can overeat?

A big bale slow feeder with woven polyester mesh panels

take that away

While most slow feeder designs (other than metal) will not damage horse teeth under normal circumstances, it is important to monitor your horse’s mouth for changes when making feeding adjustments and to be aware of underlying risk factors affecting the horse’s dental health can affect the horse.

When it comes to feeding hay efficiently, don’t waste it, don’t want to.

Almost every horse owner has collided with a hay net or hay sack at some point, and with good reason! Nowadays, many horses spend a long time in their boxes. Hay nets and sacks can be a great way to keep the horse from throwing everything down in minutes. In addition, they reduce the amount of waste generated by soiled and scattered hay.

Hay nets can be invaluable when trying to present feed in a neat, clean, and organized manner. They are safer on the teeth than metal hay racks and are useful for providing enrichment and reducing boredom. It’s also important to extend the time your horse spends eating to improve digestive health as it more closely mimics natural grazing.

What is a horse hay net?

A horse hay net is exactly what it sounds like – a net containing hay for your horse! Easy right? These nets are generally made of nylon twine, but the size of the holes and the size of the net can vary widely. Bigger holes make it easier for horses to pull the hay out, and smaller ones can really slow them down.

Be careful not to choose nets with holes that are too small for your horse as he may become too frustrated. Hay net sizes can vary from small ones that hold a few flakes to nets that can hold whole bales or even round bales!

Best Horse Hay Nets:

Weaver Leather Slow Feed Hay Net

Weaver Leather is a great all-purpose horse hay net. This net is durable, has useful 2″ holes and comes in a variety of colors.

Tough 1 Strong braided cotton hay net

If you want a hay net but your horse cannot mentally handle slow eaters then this is the net for you. The holes are large and horses can easily pull out hay without getting frustrated.

Hay Chix big bale net

Round bales or large square bales can be fed to pasture, but some horses still waste a lot or eat too quickly. Hay Chix makes great nets and this HUGE hay net is no exception.

What is a horse hay sack? What is a horse hay sack?

Horse hay sacks are most commonly nylon or canvas sacks that have either a hole, webbing, or netting on the side for easy access to the hay. Similar to hay nets, the openings in the hay sack can be large or smaller. Smaller openings will slow down your cravings and the dead-like design makes transporting hay easier.

Best horse hay bags:

Weaver leather haysack

This is your classic haysack – cordura and mesh! It is a bag with mesh sides for ventilation and a hole in the front for hay access. To top it off, they come in many different colors!

Derby Originals Slow Feed Hay Bag

Derby Originals make a high quality, durable 2″ square webbing haysack that’s easy to fill! Straps and rings also make it easy to hang just about anywhere!

Tough 1 hay carrier bag

This easy to fill bag features fun prints and adjustable straps for easy carrying! The holes are a little big to be a slow feed but will still slow it down a bit.

Horse hay sack vs. hay net Horse hay sack vs. hay net

At this point, you’re probably wondering when you would choose a net or bag to feed your hay. There is no “right” answer, but we can give you a few pointers in your decision-making process.

When to use a hay net:

When you want to slow down a fast eater.

If you want to reduce hay waste from messy eaters.

When you want to keep hay clean and clear of the ground.

When to use a hay sack:

If you want to reduce the chance of entanglement.

If you are tired of stuffing flakes into hay nets.

When hay nets are STILL too messy for you and you need something cleaner.

How to use horse hay nets?

How do you tie a horse hay net?

The easiest way to tie hay nets is to attach a snap clip to the rope. You can thread the clip (and rope) through a ring and back to the bottom of the hay net. You can either attach the snap to the pocket or bring it back up and attach it to the ring.

Other methods include tying the tail with slip knots or using a carabiner to keep it out of the way. Whatever you decide, you need to be sure it doesn’t sag too far down when empty!

How high should a horse hay net be tied?

The net should be hung in such a way that when empty it is not within hoof’s reach. You also want to be sure it isn’t so high that the horse has trouble pulling the hay out or strains its neck and back. This depends on the size of your horse and how it eats.

Smaller holes have less chance of tangling unless your horse is shod. Horseshoes can still get caught in small holes, which is why tying your hay bag or net high enough is very important.

How do you hang a hay net for horses?

Hay nets should usually be hung from a ring on the barn wall or from the rafters. Wherever you hang the net, it must be secure.

Don’t leave loops for your horses to get tangled in. Some hay nets are designed to fit over large bales or in buckets rather than being hung at all. In these cases, just follow the company’s instructions.

frequently asked Questions

How do I get my horse to eat more slowly?

The most common way to slow horses is to use a slow feeder hay net or sack.

What is a slow feeder?

A slow feeder is a feeding method that reduces how quickly a horse can eat. Hay can be a bag or net with small openings, or a ball or other “toy” that you can fill with hay and then manipulate the horse to get the hay out.

There are also slow grain eaters – like toys or bowls with indentations or ridges that require the horse to work a little harder to get to the food.

Are Slow Feed Hay Nets Good for Horses?

Slow feeder hay nets can be good for horses. Horses that are stalled can get bored, and slow feeder hay nets keep them occupied for longer. Horses should also consume feed over a longer period of time to prevent digestive problems.

However, hay nets with holes that are too small or hung incorrectly can be frustrating or dangerous.

How Many Hay Nets Should a Horse Have Per Day?

The number of hay nets you give a horse depends entirely on how much hay they hold and how much hay your horse needs.

Do hay nets damage horses’ teeth?

Hay nets are considered harmless to horse teeth. The net is quite soft, unlike the metal hay racks which are known to damage teeth. Horses typically learn to pull the hay out of nets rather than scraping it with their teeth, but every horse is different.

How to make a slow feeder hay net for horses?

It’s usually cheaper to buy a pre-made hay net, but if you need a specific size or have a good supply of materials there are plenty of guides on how to make your own.

If you’ve ever made macrame, it’s basically the same idea. You’ll need a lot more yarn (or rope) than you think, though, so keep that in mind.

Should horses eat hay off the ground?

Horses can definitely eat off the ground—that’s how their bodies are designed. Horses that eat everything high up (like they always do from hanging hay sacks) can develop back and neck muscle problems and some even sinus problems.

The only time there might be a problem with bottom feeding is in sandy areas. Horses can accidentally ingest sand, which can build up in their intestines or even lead to sand colic or enterolith formation.

There are sacks of hay to hold the hay securely on the ground, however nets should never be used on the ground on shod horses as shoes can get caught in even small holes.

What is the best hay net for greedy horses?

If your horse can eat a few flakes of hay in record time and you need to slow it down, buy a net with smaller holes. Try to find a tough one, because greedy horses can be a bit rough with them.

The Weaver Leather Hay Net features 2 inch holes designed for hungry little hippos – um, horses!

What is the best trailer hay net?

The best trailer hay net will hold a smaller amount of hay, but otherwise it’s all down to personal preference. Freedom Feeder makes a smaller hay net specifically for travel.

Some people prefer hay bags in this situation, you just need to make sure your horse doesn’t turn it backwards and get frustrated that it can no longer reach its feed. There is also a risk of the horse getting hay in the eyes or inhaling it while moving about in the enclosed space.

parting thoughts

As with so many products on the market, the mileage of your hay net or bag may vary. While there is no perfect solution that works for everyone, hopefully this article will give you a good starting point. Whether you choose a hay net or hay sack (or both), your horse will thank you for doing your homework. Enjoy your meal!

PS Do you like this article? Trot on to:

Which is better to use, a hay net or a hay sack? I have both in my barn and will explain when I use them in today’s post.

In case you’re not sure what the difference is, let me start by defining hay nets and sacks. A hay net consists of ropes tied together in a net. The opening in the net through which the horse pulls the hay can be quite large, around 15 cm in diameter, or as little as 2.5 cm in diameter for Slow Feeder hay nets. The larger the openings in the net, the easier and faster the horse can eat the hay, but more hay will fall on the ground. The nets with small openings are often referred to as “slow feeder” hay nets because they limit the speed at which the horse can pull the hay out.

A hay sack is just that, a sack with a single hole cut in it, and the horse pulls the hay out of that single hole. (There are also bags with a net in the front, but I haven’t used any of those types.) Hay bags reduce waste, but don’t hold as much hay as the nets. Although they vary in size, a typical hay net will hold half to an average sized hay bale. A hay sack only holds a few flakes.

So everyone has their pros and cons, but I’ll use mine here. I use hay nets in my stalls with angled corners, which makes floor feeding very wasteful as the horses run through the hay as they walk around the outside of their stalls. Sacks wouldn’t hold enough hay to feed twice a day, so I use the nets there. (Just a side note here that I believe it’s healthier to ground-feed horses so their heads are in a more natural grazing position, but compromises are sometimes necessary.) I also use hay nets in my run in stables when I feed hay outside but want it off the ground to keep it out of the mud.

I use hay bags in my horse trailer. I no longer haul long distances, so the hay sack offers plenty of hay for the horse’s ride, is easy to attach to the trailer and doesn’t make a mess.

These are my preferences for hay nets and sacks…which one do you use more?

Whether you’re switching to slow feeding or want to waste hay, a hay net can be a great solution. Slow feed hay nets are lightweight, portable and easy to use, but choosing a hole size can be overwhelming. To make this decision a little easier for you, we’ve created a quick hole selection guide with answers to some of the most common questions we get.

Small Holes 1-1.75″

To slow consumption and avoid as much waste as possible, stick with a hole that’s 2 inches or less.

Ideally, you want to ensure a continuous supply of hay 24/7. By holding the food in front of your horse longer, you can help prevent or alleviate many digestive, metabolic, and behavioral problems. To help prevent colic and ulcers, we recommend hay nets with 1.75″ holes when feeding round bales and 1-1.5″ holes when feeding flakes or small squares.

For minis, we recommend a 1″ hole. Known for getting overweight, most minis require a smaller hole and smaller portions.

90% of horses have no problem with 1.75″ holes. If your horse has a relaxed/easygoing personality, then we recommend starting where a larger hole and thicker material comes into play.

Medium/large holes 2+”

Larger holes (2+”) are ideal for horses that have struggled with small holes in the past. If your horse has destroyed a hay net with 1.5″ holes then you can be fairly certain that it will do the same with a net will make with 1.75″. In this case, we recommend increasing the hole size by at least 1/2″, if not more, and consider using a thicker mesh.

Horses that tend to be destructive in the pasture or stable also tend to be harsh with nets because they tend to get frustrated with small holes. In this case, in addition to a larger hole, we also recommend using a thicker mesh such as our Heavy Gauge Net. Larger/heavier breeds such as those from the Draft or Warmblood families tend to do better with larger holes and thicker netting.

Horses with special needs, such as the blind or seniors with dental problems, are good candidates for big holes. A larger hole will make feeding time much easier for them and ensure they can get enough. Most horses in this category do well with a 3 inch hole.

Horses exposed to harsh winter conditions can also benefit from larger holes. Because extreme temperatures increase calorie needs, you want to make access as easy as possible. Smaller holes can cause additional stress by creating frustration.

Cattle generally do better with 3-inch holes. Retrieving hay through smaller holes can be challenging as they have no upper teeth and rely on their tongues to grab forage. In addition, cattle are ruminants. Their digestive system is completely different from that of horses. They’re not as prone to colic and ulcers, so slow feeding through small holes isn’t as important.

Another factor to consider is the type of feed you are using. Large holes are the best choice for hay that is long, coarse, or thick like alfalfa or straw. Thick stemmed feed can be difficult and sometimes impossible to pull through hay nets with small holes.

Be prepared

Finding the right hay net can take some trial and error. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different hole sizes. There is no one size fits all and no net is indestructible.

Horses are very similar to humans. They have different personalities, different levels of patience, and different learning speeds. Plan some time in the beginning to help your horse understand the new feeding concept.

Holes can occur. Although most horses adapt easily to slow feeding, some will become frustrated and destroy everything in their way at mealtime. Typically, this behavior wears off after the first 30 days. However, this is when you are most likely to encounter holes in your web. Luckily, hay nets are easy to repair and the hay savings and health benefits far outweigh the occasional hole.

Find out what fits into your nutritional program. Check out our full range of nets, feeder kits and hole sizes. If you need help choosing, give us a call. We’re happy to help.

All links on this page that lead to products on Amazon are affiliate links and I get a commission if you make a purchase. Thank you in advance – I really appreciate that!

Some owners provide their horses with constant access to hay or grass because they believe horses need to be eating all the time. But is that necessary? I decided to research the subject to find out if horses really need to eat all the time or if a rationed diet can work just as well.

Horses don’t need to eat all the time, but eating small amounts of feed throughout the day helps their digestion. Constant access to hay promotes healthy digestion; However, you must consider your horse’s age, diet and digestive health, as well as the type of feed he eats.

Many horse owners feed their horses on a standard schedule. But all horses are not created equal, and some may need to eat more often than others to stay healthy and perform their best.

Should horses have free access to hay?

Feeding horses is not complicated but there are critical considerations, they require forage in their diet and too much grain can cause serious health problems.

There’s no downside to allowing most horses constant access to hay, but is it necessary? No, but they need to eat enough throughout the day to keep their digestive system functioning optimally.

If your horse does not have the opportunity to graze in a pasture all day, it is good practice to feed him hay several times a day.

Constant access to hay or pasture is not good for all horses.

I said there was nothing negative about free access to hay, but that’s not entirely true. Too much rich hay can cause health complications for some horses, especially those that are considered “easy keepers.”

“Easy Keepers” are horses that tend to gain weight even when fed sparingly. They’re great for owners because they don’t need to supplement their diet with grain or high-quality hay.

The downside, however, is that they are at a higher risk of becoming moldy from overeating lush pasture grass or rich hay. Founder is severe inflammation of the laminae of the hoof that results in permanent lameness.

Horses that eat too much hay can also develop diarrhea. Diarrhea caused by eating lush grass or hay usually only lasts a few days. But you need to control how long your horse has access to this rich feed to prevent it from happening again.

Rich or lush grasses are high in starch and carbohydrates. Most new grasses, i. H. Spring pastures are plentiful, and for this reason horses’ grazing time should be limited.

Alfalfa is rich and should be fed in limited amounts. To make portioning alfalfa easier, you can buy it in pellets or cubes. Some horse owners exhibit their horses with grazing muzzles in the spring to limit their grass intake.

Grazing muzzles are an excellent option for many owners as they allow horses to be grazed but limit their grass intake.

Management of grazing and feeding times

Let’s start with backup and address the big question: do horses have to eat all the time? The simple answer to the question is no. Horses do not need to be fed constantly.

Their breed affects their feeding schedule and the amount of exercise a horse gets in a day. Managing a horse’s diet can be a little tricky since you have so many options to choose from.

Such as grain, nutritional supplements, pasture (grass), hay and so on. Do horses have to eat all the time? No, they have an accurate internal clock when it comes to feeding. Let’s dive deep into the topic to learn more.

Horses have a very delicate digestive system. So if they have been kept indoors for a while, introduce them to grazing slowly. Start by turning them off for a few hours a day.

Once they are acclimated to pasture or grass, you can extend the time and let them graze anywhere from 3 to 4 hours twice a day, depending on the size of the pasture. If you have a big field with good green grass, you can even let them graze for 6 hours at a time.

Horses that spend most of their time in a stable without grazing need to be fed hay several times a day. Three times a day is better than twice, and four times a day would be ideal.

I would even suggest putting enough hay in the stall to last eight hours. This way they can eat a small amount when they feel hungry.

Horses’ digestive systems are designed to get most of their nutrition from grass or hay. Technically, a horse’s hay or grass consumption should be one to two percent of its body weight. To slow down the speed at which your horse eats hay, you can use a hay net.

feeding schedules

As previously mentioned, horses have an internal clock that tells them when to eat. It would be best if you avoided abrupt changes in feeding schedule.

Also, due to a horse’s sensitive digestive system, you should not change the amount or type of feed quickly. Dietary changes can cause serious health problems like colic.

So you should feed according to a schedule and follow it to ensure the horses are fed around the same time each day, even if you let them out to pasture. Don’t suddenly stop your horse’s eating behavior.

Fjord horses: “easy to care for.”

Can Your Horse Survive On Grass Alone?

Horses can survive and thrive on a feed-only ration. The horse’s digestive system is designed to get most of its nutrition from hay and grass. Yes, you can feed them grains and other supplements.

But the truth is, you don’t have to. A horse’s weight can fluctuate with the seasons and the type of work it is doing, but grass alone should be enough to sustain the horse and meet its nutritional needs.

If you want to learn more about why horses eat grass and what types of grass they eat, read Grass for Horses: Why It’s So Important and the Different Types.

Can you feed your horse lawn clippings?

Feeding a horse clippings is a big no! Grass clippings normally ferment, which is why freshly cut grass is warm when you touch it.

If you feed your horse’s grass clippings, it will almost certainly devour them, which is dangerous. First, the horse doesn’t chew on it and therefore doesn’t mix with saliva like it should.

The saliva helps thin the weed. Secondly, fermentation usually takes place much later, when the feed arrives in the horse’s intestines. The already fermenting weed releases gases that could cause the stomach to expand and even burst. Feeding your horse grass clippings can be fatal to them.

If you want to feed your horse healthy treats, read my article: What Do Horses Like to Eat? 11 of their favorite treats.

Conclusion

Horses don’t need to eat constantly, but constant access to hay helps keep their digestive systems working properly. Allowing your horse to graze on pasture grass is safe and keeps them healthy.

A healthy pasture provides all the nutrients horses need. However, limit their time in fertile fields, especially in spring. If you box your horse, make sure you provide plenty of good quality hay.

With access to good hay or grass, you don’t have to worry about adding grains and supplements to your diet. However, one caveat is that all horses are individuals and some may need extra energy, especially when working with your animal.

The best slow feeders

for Your Horse Best Slow Feeder Buying Guide by RW Crew | January 22, 2021

While most of us know that horses are meant to graze 24/7, we can’t always provide our horses with a big, green pasture. Slow feeders are a great alternative to grazing when you have limited access to a pasture, are struggling with the expense of providing constant feed, or your horse seems to be gaining weight too easily. Available in many different forms, slow feeders can support healthy digestion, relieve boredom, and even reduce anxiety about feeding. We’ve narrowed down our favorite products below to make your slow feeding decisions a little less daunting.

Things to consider when buying:

Material Hay capacity Easy to fill opening size

Our top 6 best slow feeders

Equi-Essential Hay Ball No more boredom

The Equi-Essential Hay Ball is the ideal slow feeder to combat boredom. The unique shape entertains your horse by allowing him to play and push the hay ball around without letting it roll too far. If desired, it can also be hung up like a normal hay sack. This hard plastic hay ball is 16 inches in diameter and weighs approximately 4.5 pounds when not filled with hay. It has a 4.75″ screw port for filling and twelve 2.75″ ports for your horse to eat from. The hay ball holds up to 7lb of hay and is ideal for one horse.

Niblet Hay Net Slow Feeder Durable and versatile

The Niblet Hay Net is a great option whether your horse is outside, in a box or on the go. This hay net is made from a durable poly blend rope woven into 2″ to 2.5″ openings and features a drawstring cord for inflation. It can hold up to 30-35 pounds of hay and is recommended for one hay net per horse. Designed to reduce waste and increase feeding time, this versatile option is priced to fit any budget.

Professional’s Choice Feeder Hay Sack for on the go

The Professional’s Choice Medium Hay Bag can be used while traveling while your horse is tethered to the trailer or in the stable. This fun printed hay sack is designed to encourage slower hay consumption. It provides about 2-3 flakes of hay to a horse and has 2″ x 4″ openings in the front and back. The top flap closure makes loading easy and the detachable nylon straps suit your preferred bag positioning Due to the larger openings it is recommended to use this hay bag with denser hay such as alfalfa.

Texas round bale hay net perfect for the pasture

The Texas Round Bale Hay Net is your best choice when it comes to feeding the whole herd. Made from durable nylon webbing, this hay net has no seams to prevent tears and is also UV treated to protect it from damage. It has 1.75″ openings and holds round bales from 4′ x 4′ to 6′ x 6′ or square bales from 3′ x 3′ x 9′ to 4′ x 4′ x 8′. Although this hay net is popular for use in the pasture, it is recommended that you create a barrier for safety when using it with shod horses.

Kiwi Helix Feeder as designed by nature

The perfect solution both at home and on the go, the Kiwi Helix Feeder Slow Feeder is designed to allow your horse to feed in a natural head-down position. This manger is designed to collapse when the horse eats the hay in it, making it easy to take with you when not at home. Heavy-duty mesh, corrosion-resistant hardware, and a 1/2-inch-thick high-density plastic feeding plate ensure this slow-moving feeder will stand up to the elements. This easy-to-load feeder can hold up to 60 pounds of hay and is sold with both 3.5″ and 4″ hole options to ensure frustration-free feeding for your best friend.

XL Porta-Grazer 3.5 inch holes for horses that are hard to feed

Frequently asked Questions :

1.) Why should I use Hay Chix nets? What are the advantages?

Heu-Chix nets are proven to save time, money and hay!

Reduce cleaning time in paddocks and pastures! By minimizing wasted hay on the ground, there is a lot less cleaning to do. Look at your manure pile, what does it say about your waste management?

The Hay Chix Net (formerly known as the “Cinch Net”) has been shown to reduce waste in round bales by 57%, slowing consumption to a more natural level. Want to see the University of Minnesota studies? Click here

Respiratory Health: The mesh acts as a barrier to keep your horse from burying his head in the pad!

Overall: Horses are healthier when they have the opportunity to graze 24/7 as God intended. Should your horse be limited to how much it can eat? We have developed many options to suit your needs.

2.) Why is our network the best on the market?

We have put in a lot of research (real world and university studies) to guarantee that Hay Chix nets are the best on the market.

Hay Chix nets are made from the highest quality materials and are hand sewn in the USA (Texas to be precise).

If you have any questions, our NETsperts (who have horses and use Hay Chix nets) are here to answer them!

Our nets are SECURE! The knots in our nets are fixed to prevent the holes from getting bigger.

The hoggle clasp is probably the easiest way to open and close it.

NEW! We’re always developing the next best thing to make your life easier.

3.) What is the guarantee?

Risk-free 30-day money-back guarantee

Less shipping costs from the date of purchase. If you are unsatisfied for any reason, we will return or exchange your product for the first 30 days.*

90 Day Satisfaction Guarantee

We will supply you with any repair cord or patch you need for 90 days.

For more details: click here

4.) How do I return or exchange a product?

It’s very easy! Click here

5.) I don’t have a receipt, can I get my money back?

We will accept returns without receipt if placed online or over the phone within the 30 day guarantee period, provided we have a record of the order being placed.

6.) Why do you offer so many sizes?

Every horse/animal is different! Depending on how your horse/animal in the pasture, in the stable, in the small enclosure, in the herd etc.

Every horse/animal owner is different! How often would you like to do household chores and how much would you like to be able to feed at any one time?

We have developed a range of simple feeding solutions to meet everyone’s needs.

7.) What does O, SF and SFX mean?

O stands for Original and is a 1 3/4″ small mesh hay net. This was the first size we launched. This net is designed for:

Feeding a “mixed” flock

Feeding on the go (in a trailer, stable, trail riding, at a show, etc.)

This means your hay lasts longer, waste is drastically reduced and your horse is kept busy.

Note: All netting should be properly inserted by offering optional “loose hay” with the netting until the horse has demonstrated its ability to eat from the netting.

SF stands for Slow Feed and is a 1 1/4″ small mesh hay net. This net is designed for:

The lightweight goalkeeper

This will significantly slow consumption

Drastically reduce waste

Horses are losing weight while still being content to graze on the web 24/7

Note: All netting should be properly inserted by offering optional “loose hay” with the netting until the horse has demonstrated its ability to eat from the netting.

SFX stands for Slow Feed Extreme and is a 1″ small mesh hay net. This net is designed for:

Extremely easy-care animals and animals with metabolic problems

On a strictly monitored feed feeding program

This increases the time it takes to consume the hay

This will significantly slow consumption

Note: All netting should be properly inserted by offering optional “loose hay” with the netting until the horse has demonstrated its ability to eat from the netting.

8.) Would you make smaller than 1″ SFX?

No, we currently do not offer anything smaller than 1 inch mesh. We have some customers who “double” two nets to try and make the holes even smaller. This usually works best with the SF and SFX sizes.

If you have to go to such extremes to control weight, we recommend increasing the horse training program. (We have also been in this situation personally! If you have any questions, we are always here for you.)

9.) How much does each mesh style last?

Micro Mini Net – is designed for 1-2 small square bale flakes

Half Bale Net (formerly known as Mini) – is designed for 4-5 small square bale flakes

The West Coast net is designed to accommodate a full 3 string small square bale

Large Bale 4′ Net – is designed for small round bales or multiple small square bales. It fits around bales up to 4×4 in diameter. (If you have a 4’x5′ bale, use the 6′ net for large bales to keep your tasks simple!)

Big Bale Net 5 – We call this our “Goldilocks” net. If the 6ft net is too big and the 4ft net is too small, then the 5ft Goldilocks net is for you!

Large Bale 6′ Net – is designed for large rounds and squares (4 x 4 x 8 and 3 x 3 x 9). This is the most common size we sell! If you have different round bale sizes, we recommend this net.

Please note:

Our nets are designed to take ANY shape you give them

This is an estimate of the hay capacity for each net

We make our nets with ample space to make them easy to fill and easy to use

10.) Which net is best suited for the horse trailer?

Most people recommend the 1 3/4″ Half Bale Net, especially if you don’t use hay nets regularly. The 1 3/4″ Half Bale Net is easy to use and can be hung anywhere or ground fed! Plus… they come in fun strap colors!

11.) Which net should I use for a large square bale?

We recommend the Large Bale 6′ net. This net FITS your 3x3x8 and 4x4x9 square bales.

12.) What are Hay Chix nets made of?

Our nets are made from the highest quality, non-toxic, UV treated DuPont nylon fabric. MADE IN THE USA. Our nets are made right in Mineral Wells, TX by horse/cattle owners like you!

Why is that important? Each mesh goes through an extensive testing process to ensure it is of the quality you want and deserve.

13.) Why does our network have nodes?

After extensive research, we chose knotted nets because they are stronger and easier to repair. Knotless mesh is like pantyhose; The run has no place to stop!

14.) Why are Hay Chix nets more expensive?

Higher quality materials

Handcrafted in the USA – materials and everything!

They last a long time. (You can buy the same cheap hay net 5 times and spend more. ‘The wise man cries once.’)

You have 30 days to try it with our 30-day money-back guarantee (Yes, you can actually use it!)

15.) How do I introduce my Hay Chix network?

We recommend ALWAYS feeding “loose hay” of your choice during the first week, when you are getting your horses or animals used to your new net. EVEN IF your horses have been standing on our nets or other slow-feed nets for years. This will ensure your net lasts and your animals are comfortable and happy!

16.) Should I remove the twine or plastic netting from my bales?

YES SIR. Always remove the loop twine or netting from your pads as not only could this pose a choking/colic hazard, the twine could also come loose from the netting and snag on your animal if the pad is eaten.

17.) What is self-regulation?

Horses are natural grazing animals. They should have 24/7 access to food. However, in today’s world, we are not always taught that or how to do things. The truth is… we’re designed to eat little by little throughout the day. When we feed our horses meals and control everything they do, they can lose their natural ability to tell when they are full.

When given the choice of when to eat, the horse will normally self-regulate its body and adjust back to how it should be. You may see an increase in consumption over the first week or two, but this should settle down and the horse should begin to regulate itself.*

Don’t let your network go empty. We happily swap out the net with about 30 pounds left over and use the 30 pounds as hay of choice for the next bale of net.

18.) Self-regulation does not take place, when then?

Horses usually self-regulate within 3 weeks. Depending on your horse’s life situation; stalled or not, exercise regimen, how long between meals, etc. All of these factors can contribute to how quickly self-regulation occurs. The main thing we suggest is to keep hay in front of them and get more exercise.

19.) My horse won’t eat off the net! Why?

Some horses initially reject the net, assuming you will give them more hay of their choice. Give him time to adjust by offering free choice hay, then give him a longer time with the net (try 12 hours) and see how much your horse has eaten. Almost all horses do well on the 1 3/4″ mesh. If this happens on the 1 1/4″ or 1″ mesh, you may want to swap to a larger orifice size as your horse may become frustrated. If If this is the case an older horse that has lost its will to thrive you may also want to check out our stock 2 1/2″ opening size or talk to your vet about what you can do about his diet to cheer him up.

20.) How do I clean my Hay Chix net?

Clean your mesh with dish soap and warm water, hang to air dry. Do not use harsh chemicals such as bleach as these will break down the fibers and cause the mesh to become brittle. Another quick tip – put your mesh back in place before it dries completely! The web loves moisture.

21.) How do I store my Hay Chix net?

Some people will only use their net during the winter season. For storage, it is best to wash and dry completely. Place them in a storage container to prevent mice and other rodents from chewing and nesting. When you take it out again, wet the mesh. This moisture allows the fibers to puff up again and become stronger.

22.) Can I build my own network?

Check out our DIY mesh! Some people will make their own with our high quality material. However, we believe that we offer a high quality, easy to use, premium product at a great price. Most people find it better to buy the finished mesh from us. After all, your time is worth more than anything else!

23.) Can Hay Chix make me a custom net?

As a rule, we do not accept custom-made products. In bulk we take them on a case by case basis. Please contact us with detailed information: [email protected] so we can help you!

24.) My horse HAS horseshoes, can I use Hay Chix nets?

Yes! You can! You need to hang the net high enough to keep the horse from scratching and hooking a shoe, or place a hay ring around the net that is level with the ground. Visit our Facebook page…the sky’s the limit with shod horses!

You can use:

water tanks

Homemade feeders

tires

Boots (soft rides, etc.)

Visit our Facebook page (Hay Chix) to see some great DIY project ideas!

25.) How do Hay Chix nets differ from other sneak feed nets on the market?

It is not our business to put people down and we believe that there is usually a place in the market for everyone. Our business puts quality, service and knowledge first. We were first to market with our Large Bale Cinch Net and we have a standard set that others are trying to copy.

We have a guarantee on our products that allows you to try them out so you can see whether or not they will work with your nutritional regimen. Our nets are the ONLY university proven facts that CANNOT be generalized as other nets are not made from the same materials or hand sewn as Hay Chix nets.

26.) Which mesh size should I use?…

A mixed herd (Easy and Hard Guardians together.) The majority wins. It may be easier to add more fat and nutrients to your hard keeper and keep all your easy keeper at a good weight with the SF. If you have more hard goalies, choose the 1 3/4″ original and train your light goalies more often.

Easy Keeper(s) – We recommend starting with the SF 1 1/4″. If this doesn’t perform as you hoped within the first 30 days, you can swap out for the SFX 1″.

Foals – Foals usually do well with the original 1 3/4″ or SF 1 1/4″ mesh. If you are concerned about hooves getting caught in the net, be sure to hang the nets high enough or place them in a feeding station.

Draft Horses – Draft Horses work well with all sizes of our nets. Be sure to follow the same guidelines for insertion and determine the hole size based on the horse’s overall body condition.

Donkeys and Mules – Donkeys and mules tend to be very easy to care for, so we recommend sticking with the SF 1 1/4″. If you know your donkey/mule is dangerously overweight, you can use the SFX 1″. Pay attention to the correct introduction of the net with freely selectable hay (with any mesh size).

Goats, Sheep, Llamas and Alpacas – For the smaller foraging herd animals we recommend the SF 1 1/4″ as these animals typically have smaller snouts and are notorious for wasting hay. If the SF 1 1/4″ is not suitable If the If the job isn’t completed within 30 days, you can exchange it for the SFX 1″.

Cattle- We have developed a net specifically for cattle called the Stock Net. This net has 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ holes to allow larger herds of cattle easier access to feed at the same time.

Geriatric Horses – The original 1 3/4″ will usually be the choice for most. If the 1 3/4″ isn’t enough you can swap out for the 2 1/2″ mesh within the first 30 days.

27.) How long does a Hay Chix net last?

If we buy the raw net, we are guaranteed it for 5 years for normal use. Every herd is different and some horses are more food aggressive than others.

The typical customer orders again after about 3-5 years. Remember Hay Chix nets are easy to repair and you can order patch kits and repair thread direct from us.

28.) How many horses can eat from a net?

We recommend no more than 5 horses per round bale to give everyone enough ball time without dominance issues.

29.) Can horses tear holes in a Hay Chix net?

Yes, it’s possible. (There is a fine line between breaking strength and horse safety.) We want the net to tear if a horse/animal gets into a bad situation. The safety of the horses/animals always comes first.

If you follow our recommended guidelines for deployment and don’t let your hay nets go empty, you should have great success. Remember that horses will be toughest in the webs when they learn to eat from them. To show you how much we believe in our product, we’re giving you 30 days to make your decision if our mesh is the right choice for you.

30.) How do I stop the hole tearing behavior?

First of all; Check your nets daily so you can see if there are any new holes. Then we enclose a piece of repair yarn with each net. Use this repair thread to repair this spot as quickly as possible. If you feel the hole is too big for this repair kit, you can contact us for a patch kit or more thread (free within 90 days of purchase).

Try to patch the hole(s) immediately as this discourages bad behavior. After a few repairs, the horse usually stops. If the horse continues to poke holes in the net, email us ([email protected]) with photos. We are always there for you!

31.) Can my horse/animal have paw holes in my Hay Chix net?

While ANYTHING is possible with horses, we don’t usually see this. The horses will likely paw at the net to loosen the hay. If you are concerned about this, use an automatic feeder around the bale of netting.

32.) How do I repair the net with repair yarn?

CLICK HERE to watch a short video!

33.) What is the tear resistance of Hay Chix nets?

The tensile strength of our nets is 385 lbs. The Heavy Duty version weighs 619 lbs.

34.) Has my Hay Chix net shrunk?

Your Hay Chix net should not shrink. The nylon fibers tend to swell over time when exposed to dirt, moisture, freezing and thawing. This gives the mesh a thicker look and is actually a good thing!

35.) My new mesh looks thinner than my old mesh…why?

The nylon fibers tend to swell over time when exposed to dirt, moisture, freezing and thawing. This makes the mesh look thicker and even stronger!

36.) What if my horse has a dental problem?

Depending on the actual problem, Hay Chix nets can be a HUGE benefit to your horse. If your horse tends to eat his hay or is unable to chew it, using a hay chix net (usually the 1 3/4″ original) will reduce the amount of hay he ingests and the horse can it chew and swallow bite. This reduces the need for as much complete feed. If your horse has other dental problems, consult your veterinarian or equine dentist first. In most cases, horses do fine as they usually maneuver the net with their lips .

37.) Can my net freeze to the ground?

Although this is possible, the hay usually insulates the netting under the bale and the horses move the netting enough to keep it from freezing. It can freeze when there is little hay left in the net and freezing rain is forecast. To avoid this, you can secure the opening of the net to the bottom of your feeder, or use a pallet or tarp under the bale of net.

38.) I am tax exempt, do you have to charge me for taxes?

You can fax or email your tax exemption form so that we can keep it on our account file. Once we have this file, we will remove the tax burden.

39.) How can you help my rescue?

Absolutely!!! CLICK HERE to learn more about our White Horse Rehab Program!

40.) Do you sponsor people?

We get so many sponsorship requests every day. We created the Hay Chix Patch program to give everyone a fair chance!

Check out our patch program! HERE

41.) I bought a net from a retailer and would like to exchange it, how can I do that?

If it’s within the first 30 days and you have the original purchase receipt, we’ll make an exchange for 30 days. Customers are responsible for all associated costs for an exchange or return and must have an RGA number to return the product. Here’s the information you need – BACK

42.) How do I become an Authorized Hay Chix Dealer?

Please contact us at [email protected] for dealer information!

43.) Can I get a discount?

Check out our referral program, HERE!

Send your friends a 20% discount offer! If they order through your link, you will receive a $20.00 discount off their next order.

Wondering how to feed your horse in winter?

Another summer has come and gone in the blink of an eye. As winter approaches, we shift our daily routines a bit to make the cooler days a little more bearable. Do I get a “Woo-hoo” for headbands, fluffy socks, and Pumpkin Spice Lattes?

But what about the wintering of our horses?

If you’re anything like me, few things cause me as much stress and uncertainty as trying to keep my horse happy and healthy year-round. This is especially true when it comes to deciphering the nutritional needs of my specific horses.

In my early years as a horse owner I did a lot of research on all the things I needed to do before the temperatures dropped. If there’s one thing I wish I’d realized has the greatest impact… it would be hay!

Why Hay Matters (Much)

Hay may not seem like a big deal, but it is one of the greatest ways you can contribute to your horse’s health, support their overall well-being and keep them at an optimal weight all year round.

Changes in season can affect how you feed hay, how much you feed, and what else you need to add to your horse’s diet.

In this article, I’ll break down the steps you need to take to ensure your horse’s winter ration is fed properly.

Feeding enough hay is important

OK, great. But how do you know what “enough” is? And how do you explain the drop in winter temperatures?

Like all animals, horses need energy to survive, and that energy is provided in the form of calories from the food they eat. The primary source of energy or calories for horses is hay or pasture (i.e., sources of feed and fiber).

In winter, when pasture grass is limited, you need to supplement many more calories from hay.

Always start with hay

When planning your horse’s winter diet, hay must always come first.

Your primary goal should be to provide the “right” amount of energy/calories your specific horse needs via hay.

Think of this as the amount of energy (via hay) required to stay at the “maintenance level,” aka your horse’s Baseline for Optimal Weight and Body Condition Score (Don Henneke Ph.D., 1979 , Texas A&M, “A Measure of Body Fat and Condition”).

In general, a quality timothy, orchard, or grass hay is high in calories and provides adequate nutrients to keep your horse healthy.

Therefore, start by feeding 1.5-2.5% of the horse’s total body weight per day on hay alone.

Example: If your horse weighs 1,000 pounds, start feeding 15-25 pounds of hay each day.

Pro tip: Quality is everything, so I always hunt for the best quality hay. Yes, consider availability and budget, but better quality hay will serve you and your horse that much better. To know the quality you need to have it tested or ask your hay supplier if they have a test certificate.

Want to learn more about hay? Read our blog on horse hay FAQs: list of hay types, which hay is best, etc.

How do I change the amount of hay for the winter months?

The first factor requiring you to feed *extra* hay (i.e. more than what you give in “mild” weather to maintain health) is the outside temperature.

Digesting hay has the greatest WARMING EFFECT for your horse.

This simply means that as a horse eats and digests hay, it produces heat to warm its body from the inside out.

According to Carrie Hammer of North Dakota State University, “For every 10 degree change below 32 degrees F, horses require an additional intake of about 2 pounds of feed per day.”

Additional harsh winter conditions such as wind, rain, snow or ice must be taken into account *in addition* to the increase caused by outside temperatures. These harsh winter conditions put a strain on every horse to maintain internal temperature and overall health.

Hammer also explains, “In 10 to 15 mph winds, horses must consume an additional 4 to 8 pounds of hay to meet their increased energy needs.”

Keep warm too! Check out our 5 best winter riding coats.

Changes in the way you feed hay

Horses waste hay. It’s a frustrating fact, but they all do. Especially in winter I recommend using a hay pack or slow feeder grazing system.

This reduces waste as the horse has to pull bites out of the small holes, leaving more hay in the bag and less waste on the ground.

The second benefit is slowing down the horse’s eating rate, which increases the horse’s digestion time. Remember that digestion helps produce body heat to stay cozy and healthy!

How often should I offer my horse hay?

After many winters with horses, I understand the negative effects of letting a horse walk too long between meals.

When the weather is severe and a horse spends long hours between meals, it can affect its ability to stay warm. The body can go into shock and begin to quickly use stored fat and muscle to generate energy for heat.

During the cold winter months I ALWAYS feed hay at least 3 times a day.

The largest of the meals is in the evening, so it lasts all night.

Winter horse feeding infographic

Feel free to use this infographic on your own website *as long as you link back to horse-rookie.local.*

Feel free to share it on Pinterest too by hovering over it and clicking the Pinterest icon. #Knowledgeishorsepower

frequently asked Questions

Q: Do horses need more hay when it’s cold?

Yes! A horse should generally eat between 1.5 and 2.5% of its body weight in hay daily at maintenance level during “mild months”.

It’s recommended that you add *extra* 2 pounds of hay for every 10 degree Fahrenheit drop in temperature below 32 degrees. That means, for example, that a 1,000-pound horse eating 18 pounds of hay for a maintenance level would need 20 pounds when the temperature is 30 degrees.

Q: How many bales of hay does a horse eat per month?

A horse can eat between 15 and 25 pounds of hay per day, which generally equates to half a square bale of 45/50 pound hay per day (~15 to 30 bales per month).

Always remember to consider the quality of your hay. If the nutrient quality is poor, the horse will need more hay (by weight).

Q: Why is it so important to get a Body Condition Score?

This system was developed to make it easy and effective for the horse owner to understand, track and record the amount of body fat in the horse.

To do this, 6 key areas along the body are palpated. Body fat, along with muscle mass, indicates condition and gives you a clearer picture of how healthy your horse is physically. Just like us, body weight doesn’t always give a clear picture of the general condition we’re in.

I cannot recommend enough how valuable this information is and making it a routine habit can be key to keeping any horse in optimal health! (Once or twice a month is ideal.)

“I’m not fat…I’m fluffy!” Have you ever heard this saying? Well, horses (especially ponies) can get amazingly fluffy winter coats. But what is actually underneath? Is it “healthy” fat and muscle, or is it all “fluff”?

A fluffy horse can be skinny and unhealthy underneath. ONLY a body condition score that requires you to touch the horse can give you that insight. It also forces you to take off any blankets that can hide a skinny horse!

Q: How do I find out how many calories my horse needs each day?

Your point of contact should be the National Research Council – Nutrient Requirements of Horses, which provides comprehensive tables of what exactly your horse needs.

This table shows how horse-specific factors such as age, breed, workload and weight are used to determine energy needs.

You can also look up the nutrient content of all horse feeds (feed and grain). However, the best way to know the exact nutrient composition of your hay is to have it tested.

Q: How do you know if a horse has eaten too much hay?

The most obvious sign that a horse is eating too much hay is what is known as hay belly (think of it like a beer belly for horses).

A hay belly looks disproportionately round, almost like a pregnant mare. The belly is low hanging out on either side and the horse appears to sway as it walks.

Feeding hay with a slow feeder or hay net can help your horse slow down and begin a self-regulating hay intake. When feeding hay in a pasture, spread the hay out in several single tufts to mimic natural grazing habits.

Q: Can horses have unlimited hay?

There’s a difference between unlimited hay (which can make a horse overweight) and constant access to hay (which can improve gut health and reduce stress).

Horses are forage animals, which means they spend a large part of their day out on the pasture. Providing hay in a compressed block means that over time a horse will learn to regulate itself and eat hay throughout the day.

If you can’t make a block, try feeding hay in small amounts more frequently (1 flake 3-4 times a day) and consider using a hay net if your horse is inhaling his hay.

Test yourself: winter hay feeding quiz

PS Do you like this article? Trot on to:

About the author

Erica is an Oregon native, adventure seeker with big ol’ dreams, coffee hungry girl who loves good stories. Like many of us, she caught the “horse madness” virus early in life and has never looked back. It is thanks to many horses that she has become what she is today as a rider. Through in-person workshops and online resources such as a blog, e-book and courses, she focuses on building a trust-based bond and a lasting connection with our horses so that every moment is simply amazing!

Connect with Erica and Hoofbeat Collective on Instagram, their blog or access their free download of 10 exercises to easily bond with your horse.

Sources:

National Research Council. Nutritional Requirements of Horses, 6th ed. Washington, DC: National.

Academies Press, 2007. https://www.nap.edu/read/11653/chapter/1.

Fabus, Taylor. “Body Condition Scoring in Horses” Extension of Michigan State University. 2019

Hammer, Carrie. “Feeding Horses Properly in the Winter” North Dakota State University NDSU Agriculture Communication 2013.

Using slow feed hay nets is one of the most effective ways to reduce hay waste. It is also associated with many benefits including improvements in the physical and mental health of horses. Mesh slow feeders are safe, durable, easy to fill and go anywhere. Round bale hay nets are particularly good for allowing natural husbandry or grazing behavior by allowing the horses to eat on top of the round bale and graze around the bottom of the round bale.

It also extends the life of your round bale and reduces your labor as you don’t have to lay out the bales as often. It ensures that your dear companions always have something to eat. Studies have shown a reduction in hay waste of up to 46%. Below is a good example of what happens without a hay net, showing the hay being spread out and eventually used as a toilet and bed.

If you have never tried using round bale hay nets, you may be wondering what happens to the excess net when the horses eat the round bale. This is one of the most frequently asked questions we receive from our customers. And the answer to that is pretty simple…nothing!

The excess mesh does not cause any problems for the horses or livestock using it. There is no problem with excess netting as the hay spreads down within the confines of the netting. The net is still tight until there is hardly any hay left in it.

Check out the photos below to see what happens during start up, mid use and towards the end of round baling.

This photo above shows how little hay can be wasted when using a GutzBusta® hay net.

The hay can only spread as far as the net allows. To contain the hay net even more you can add a hay ring or other boundary/physical barrier to enclose both your round bale and the slow feed net around it. These 2 things working together are even more effective at saving on hay waste, contain the hay and are a fantastic idea for shod horses. Below are 4 ways to keep your round bale netting in a physical barrier that will increase the effectiveness of the hay netting and safety wise is a must for shod horses.

The very first time you approached a horse, you probably started to hear the rules – don’t walk after a horse, don’t run anywhere, always feed treats with fingers extended in the palm of your hand, and so on. The rules of feeding are the big ones. Keep that in mind and you’ll have a good foundation on which to build all of your horse care.

Give plenty of roughage

Many leisure and trail horses do not need grain: good hay or pasture will do. If hay is not sufficient, grain can be added, but the majority of a horse’s calories should always come from roughage.

Horses are designed to eat roughage, and their digestive systems are designed to process the food in grass blades. A horse should eat one to two percent of its body weight in roughage every day.

Horses that spend a lot of time in boxes don’t graze much, but their natural feeding behavior can be mimicked by keeping hay in front of them for most of the day. They can nibble on it for a while, take a break and snooze for a while, and then come back to it, constantly moving some roughage through their systems.

Horse Feed on Amazon.com

Feed grains in small amounts and often

If you feed your horse grain, give it in several smaller meals rather than one large one. Most horses get grain for their human handlers twice a day. If you need to feed your horse a large amount of grain for any reason, consider an extra mid-day feed. Small, frequent meals are not only more natural for the horse, they also allow the horse better digestion and feed conversion. If a horse is fed too much at once, the feed will not be digested as well.