Snowflake White Tree Frog? Quick Answer

White’s Tree Frogs are a popular frog species from Australia.

They are one of the best pet frogs as they combine the appeal of an exotic pet with very easy care needs.

White’s Tree Frogs have a docile personality. They are also more peaceful than other pet species like the pixie and pacman frogs. Because of their calm nature, they can be kept in small groups and enjoy company.

Are you fascinated by this friendly amphibian?

Read on to find out everything you need to know about keeping them, setting up their habitat, diet and much more…

Overview of White’s Tree Frog

The white tree frog (Ranoidea caerulea) is native to the humid forests of New Guinea and north-west Australia.

This species is named after surgeon John White, who first discovered it in 1790.

They are also known as chubby tree frogs because of their chubby appearance. Adults have a crest of fatty tissue growing on top of their heads.

Since its discovery, this species has traveled the world.

White’s Tree Frogs are highly adaptable and can live happily in a variety of environments.

Some wild species live in urban areas. They have been known to live in close contact with humans and reside in bathrooms and kitchens during droughts. Other species go dormant during the dry months.

In captivity, these frogs don’t need particularly high temperatures or humidity.

It is also possible for them to live peacefully with their own kind (more on that later).

White’s Tree Frogs are loved for their docile natures and charming faces. They also have many interesting behaviors and often croak or yell.

kind of appearance

White’s Tree Frogs have large webbed finger and toe pads and a rounded belly. Adults have unique growths of fat on the top and sides of their heads.

These frogs also have a waxy covering on their skin that helps them retain moisture during the dry season. Interestingly, their skin has powerful antibacterial and antifungal properties. It helps protect them from fungal infections that can kill most amphibians.

White’s Tree Frogs can range in color from light green to a light mint blue. Color varies from person to person, but they can change their hue slightly depending on activity level, temperature, and environment. Your frog may look different throughout the year.

At night, all individuals change color from green to gray.

Most species have white or gold speckles behind the forearms and a white chin and underbelly.

Captive breeding has also resulted in several morphs. The most popular is the snowflake morph, which has large patches of white on the sides and back.

size

These frogs are medium-sized with a slight size difference between males and females.

Females grow slightly larger than males, averaging four inches in length. Males generally stop growing after they reach three inches. When fully grown adults weigh 2.5 to 3.5 ounces.

Froglets are only an inch long and will grow to their adult size in just under two years.

White’s Tree Frog Care

White’s Tree Frog Diet

White’s Tree Frogs are active predators of grasshoppers, spiders, moths, cockroaches and small invertebrates in their native Australia habitat. They do not ambush prey, but instead hunt and grab insects with their tongues or forearms.

This species gets along well with crickets, mealworms, and dubia cockroaches. They may also occasionally feed waxworms or hornworms.

A tree frog’s diet depends on its size:

Small frogs (up to 1.5 inches) should be fed as many small crickets as they can eat in 30 minutes.

Young frogs should be fed two medium-sized crickets twice a week.

Adults can have four large crickets twice a week. This can be supplemented with a little mouse once a month.

Make sure any prey you feed is no larger than the distance between your frog’s eyes. This will help prevent choking. It’s also important to dust their prey with a vitamin D3 powder once a week. Too little calcium can lead to metabolic bone disease.

Frogs absorb water through their skin, so you should spray them gently every night. Not only does this keep your frog hydrated, but it also increases the humidity level of the tank.

Remember to also provide them with a large shallow bowl of clean water.

Make sure the water in both the bowl and atomizer is free of chlorine, metals, or other chemicals. Amphibians are very sensitive to even small amounts of pollutants.

Lifespan of White’s Tree Frog

Tree frogs are a hardy species and live between 15 and 20 years. The record is a person who lived in captivity for 23 years.

There are many signs a keeper should look for to ensure their frog is healthy:

Active behavior and vocalizing.

Even the mouth and chin area.

Strong feeding response to prey.

clear skin.

White tree frogs can develop health problems in captivity. Internal parasites, obesity and injuries are not uncommon.

Internal parasites (eg, amoebas and flatworms) are usually found in wild-caught frogs. Parasitic infections cause weight loss or watery and discolored stools. Parasites can be avoided entirely by purchasing a captive bred frog and feeding commercial insects.

Obesity is an easily diagnosed problem in White’s Tree Frogs.

Healthy people have a thick crest of tissue that runs from their eyes to their ears. Overweight frogs have love handles that partially cover their eyes. Healthy frogs have slender fingers and obese ones have thick fingers that are kinked at the joints.

White’s Tree Frog Habitat

These frogs are native to the warm tropics of Australia and New Guinea. This species thrives on seasonal patterns of rain and drought.

Fortunately, you don’t have to repeat these seasonal patterns in captivity.

White’s Tree Frog Setup

Tank Type: Glass or Acrylic.

: glass or acrylic. Tank Size: 15 gallon tall tank.

: 15 gallon tall tank. Lighting: 40 watt heat lamp.

: 40 watt heat lamp. Substrate: coconut fiber.

What size cage do you need for a white tree frog?

A frog will happily live in a 15 gallon high terrarium. A vertical orientation cage is a must. If you plan on adding more than one to a tank, add 10 gallons for each additional species.

Dumpy tree frogs are tree dwellers. This means they enjoy climbing and spend most of their time in trees. Sturdy sticks, live plants or even PVC pipes allow your frog to express its natural climbing behavior. Make sure their terrarium has lots of branches, plants and climbing materials as they are very active (especially at night).

Glass or acrylic terrariums with a coconut fiber substrate are best suited. This combination mimics their natural habitat and holds moisture well without going moldy.

Avoid using tanks with metal mesh tops as they will chafe your frog’s skin. Also, avoid items in your tank that have sharp edges or rough textures.

White tree frogs need high humidity. This is important so that your skin does not dry out. The humidity should remain at 70 to 90%. To reach this level you need to spray daily.

How warm should my White’s Tree Frog tank be?

Daytime temperatures in their tank can range from 76 to 85 degrees F. Be sure to maintain a gradient between warmer and cooler regions. A 40 watt heat lamp for a 15 gallon tank will get a warm spot provided it is placed near the top of the tank. Allow the temperature to drop to 65 to 80°F at night.

White frogs don’t need UVB light, but some owners find that including a low-wattage UVB lamp increases their frogs’ activity levels.

Once set up, their tank needs spot cleaning every day to remove droppings and uneaten food.

A deep cleaning should take place every two weeks. Amphibians are very sensitive to chemicals, so avoid using soaps or sprays when cleaning their tank. A 1:30 bleach to water solution is safe to use if the case is thoroughly rinsed afterwards.

Behaviors: Squawks, grunts and yells

In the wild, white tree frogs live alone.

This species prefers to spend most of its time in trees, hunting insects and nesting in rock crevices to avoid water loss during the dry season.

In captivity, they spend most of their time high up in the enclosure. They only come down to bathe in the water bowl or to catch prey. Teenagers are often more active than adults. However, frogs of all ages become more active in the evening.

Tree frogs are only social with other individuals during the mating season. This happens during the rainy season from November to April. Males cluster near water sources and emit a repetitive croaking call to attract females. This is often described by zoo keepers as grunts and screams.

The only other time this species vocalizes is when distressed.

These frogs are not aggressive towards each other. They also show few dominance hierarchies. Males and females can be kept together provided there is no overcrowding.

Your natural personality is very docile. This makes them easy to use for beginners.

To pick up your frog you should:

Hold a flat hand in front of your frog. Gently press on its backside to encourage it to hop forward onto your palm. Make sure you support her weight and never let it hang loose. When holding your frog, keep your hands close to the ground. White tree frogs are excellent jumpers.

You should wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling amphibians. Even healthy amphibians can transmit salmonella and other microorganisms that can infect humans. Also, humans may have harmful oils or contaminants on their hands that can transfer to the frog’s sensitive skin.

Buy a white tree frog

White’s Tree Frog are usually sold as frogs and adults. Tadpoles and eggs are fragile and have a high mortality rate when transported long distances. If you are interested in breeding your own white tree frogs, it is best to purchase a pair of adult breeding frogs.

Regular or wild White’s Tree Frogs typically cost $35 to $50.

Rare morphs like the blue-eyed honey morph are the most expensive species at over $100.

Common morphs like the blue phase and snowflake tree frogs are $50.

Healthy pet frogs should be active, have bright eyes, and show no visible signs of injury or illness.

They should also be well-nourished but not obese. A severely overweight frog has a higher risk of developing health problems.

If you can, then check the breeder’s settings. Make sure it’s clean and not crowded.

When you bring your white tree frog home, it will take him a few days to get used to his enclosure. He will be more active for the first few days as he explores his enclosure.

Let your frog go 48 hours without being touched or fed. After it has had time to become familiar with its surroundings, you can begin a normal feeding schedule.

White’s Tree Frog Facts

Other common names Dumpy Tree Frog, Australian Green Tree Frog Scientific name Litoria caerulea. Price $35 to $50 Size Males are 3 to 3.5 inches tall

Females are 4 to 4.5 inches. Lifespan 15 to 20 years Diet Crickets, roaches, worms and occasionally mice Popular alternatives White-lipped tree frog, fairy frog, American green tree frog, fire-bellied toad

summary

White’s Tree Frogs are one of the best pet frogs for beginners.

Her chubby appearance makes her instantly recognizable. Adults are green and have rounded bellies with a crest of fatty tissue growing on top of their heads.

Tree frogs have a docile personality, making them easy to manage, and their wide availability makes it easy to find healthy captive breed species.

They are best suited to gentle adults. They are not suitable for children because of their sensitive skin and soft body.

Make sure you provide your tree frog with a 15 gallon tall tank with lots of branches and plants and you will have a very healthy pet frog.

Do you already have a white tree frog? Share some care tips in the comments below.

When most hobbyists decide to get a pet tree frog, two species top the most wanted list: the stunning but delicate red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas) and the ever-smiling white tree frog (Litoria caerulea). If you’ve ever seen a frog-themed greeting card, chances are there was a white tree frog on the front. He may not be as colorful as the red-eyed tree frog, but as any parent who takes their children to the pet shop will tell you, the white’s chubby build and cute and friendly looks are a winning combination.

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White’s Treefrog care sheet

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White’s tree frogs

It is no coincidence that the white tree frog is the first choice of pet frog for most owners. As far as frogs go, he is one of the toughest on the market, easy to feed, very easy to tame and will eat almost anything. In addition, white tree frogs tolerate handling better than almost any other amphibian, which is why specimens can often be found in petting zoos and schools.

The white tree frog is native to the northern and eastern parts of Australia and nearby New Guinea. In Australia it’s called the green tree frog, but that name doesn’t go over well because there are many different species of tree frogs that are green in color around the world. It prefers moist to semi-arid woodland habitats, but this large tree frog is very adaptable and is now quite common in suburban gardens in Australia.

The toes of the white tree frog have highly developed adhesive pads for climbing trees, plants and vertical surfaces. Adults can reach nearly 5 inches but rarely exceed 4.5 inches from snout to vent.

As the Australian name suggests, the white tree frog is a pleasant green base color, often with some white or yellow spots or markings on the back and sides. Like many tree frogs, it is capable of changing the color of its skin, which can indicate stress or sudden changes in humidity. The colors can vary from a very dark brown to a very pale green. Some populations usually have a bluish hue, which is often in high demand in pet stores as “Australian Blues”. The green coloring of older individuals in most populations can darken and appear bluish, which can confuse the issue.

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In the wild, white tree frogs breed during the summer months after heavy rains. They have a very loud quack that sounds like a loud duck quack that is repeated over and over again. Only the males have a vocal sac, and a pond full of calling males can be deafening. The eggs are laid in water, where they hatch after about 48 hours. The tadpoles generally reach metamorphosis in a month to six weeks, although stragglers may remain as tadpoles for up to a year if their habitat does not dry out.

Availability and Acquisition

In their native Australia, White’s Treefrogs are protected from collection and export. However, wild-caught New Guinea frogs are commonly found in the pet trade. However, I do not recommend buying them. Buying wild-caught frogs only encourages uncontrolled collection of these animals from the wild, and wild-caught individuals invariably carry parasites. They’ve also endured quite a stressful ordeal to make it to the pet store, and the final shock of making another trip to your home could result in disease spreading or even death.

There are few breeders of tree frogs in the United States, but captive bred white tree frogs are often available in the pet trade. It’s not always safe to trust pet store labeling, but a white tree frog that’s less than 2 inches long is almost certainly a captive bred juvenile (most wild-caught animals are adults). I get all my tree frogs from my friend Michael Novy at Rainforest Junky’s, one of the few sources in the US for true Australian blue and white tree frogs. You can also find captive bred specimens at reptile shows, but remember to use the size guide. You can be assured that you are purchasing a genuine captive bred white tree frog.

When choosing your new pet frog, make sure you’re bright-eyed, a healthy weight (not too skinny and not bloated), and don’t be afraid to ask the seller to show you the frog eating. Captive bred specimens are usually more interested in food than anything else, and a white tree frog that refuses to eat is usually frightened, stressed, or ill.

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Many hobbyists want to buy a male and female together. It’s very difficult to sex these frogs before they reach adult size, but here are some tips that may help. Both males and females can vocalize, but only males have an expanding throat/vocal sac. Males at or near maturity may have raised, dark pads at the base of their thumbs. These are the nuptial pads, and they help the males hold on to the females during mating. They are not present in female frogs. Adult females are usually larger and thicker than males. Adult males may also have a slightly dark throat, while the female’s is pale or white in comparison.

The best way to ensure you are acquiring both males and females, especially when purchasing young captive bred frogs, is to purchase a group of four or more. As they grow, males announce their presence by occasional croaking at night. Sexual maturity can be reached within a year, but the frogs probably do not reach their full size until the end of their second year of life.

Setting up the case

White tree frogs are very tolerant when it comes to care requirements. For a group of four young frogs, a 20 gallon horizontal glass aquarium should be considered the minimum housing size. Since these frogs like to climb and roost high up in branches, consider a fairly high terrarium. Adult white frogs tend to be lazy, so don’t be surprised if your frogs climb a lot when young and spend most of their time on the substrate as they get older.

Whites are messy eaters, using their front feet to stuff food into their mouths. This means that you have to be careful when choosing the terrarium substrate, as some of it is likely to end up in the frog’s mouth on a regular basis. Large substrate particles can cause intestinal obstruction in frogs, leading to death. Several layers of damp kitchen paper can be used as a base (especially good for quarantine containers). More aesthetically pleasing, long-term substrates that are usually safe to use include finely ground coir (often sold as Eco-Earth in pet stores), garden soil, ground walnut shells, and special substrates sold for use with Dart Frog terrariums.

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My current preference is to use a small-grain Atlanta Botanical Garden mix (originally made for orchids, but now more commonly available as a dart frog terrarium substrate). I mix it with equal parts eco-earth and organic topsoil. I also add a little ground walnut shell to make the substrate less dense.

Keep in mind that because silverfish have big appetites, they can quickly soil the bottom in a terrarium, so be prepared to regularly remove faeces and uneaten food and completely change the substrate every two weeks or monthly.

If you are planning a larger terrarium, especially one with a water feature and plants, then the Dart Frog terrarium approach is a great choice. Start with a drainage layer of 2 to 5 inches of hydroton (light clay balls available at hydroponic stores) or similar material. Cover this with a fine mesh, e.g. B. a fiberglass window screen from a hardware store. You can place the previously mentioned substrate mix directly on top of the screen, but I prefer to put a 1/4 inch layer of coconut shells (not ground this time) on top of the screen to minimize soil particle penetration into the drainage layer below. Your bottom layer should be several inches thick.

If you plan cleverly, you can build a water feature into the drainage layer. I create a small pond by omitting the hydroton on part of the terrarium floor and allowing the fiberglass mesh to reach the bottom of the enclosure in that area. I then place aquarium stones or coarse-grained gravel on top of the net as a pond bottom. For the remaining areas, I continue to build up the substrate layers as described and make sure that no soil comes out of the pond area.

For tree frogs, I don’t cover the bottom substrate with leaf litter or peat moss, as these can get into a white’s mouth very easily. However, some densely growing mosses/leaf mosses can make nice substrate covers and are more difficult for frogs to ingest.

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Large-leaved terrarium plants such as the tougher Monstera species and some philodendrons can withstand the heavy weight of a white tree frog. I like to add ghostwood or other terrarium-safe woods (avoid grapewood as it never stops moldy in humid conditions) and use it as scaffolding for the frogs to climb on and support for smaller plants. Plants can be used directly in the substrate and should grow well. The main consideration is that White’s tree frogs can trample delicate plants, so choose your plants carefully and, if possible, give them a few weeks to become established before introducing your frogs to the terrarium.

Plants need light to grow and thrive. Your frogs do not require light and unlike reptiles they do not require UVB light. Fluorescent plant lights are ideal; I also like to use the aquarium lights sold for freshwater aquariums. These ensure a pleasant daylight color and are loved by plants. Keep the lights on a 12-hour on/12-hour off cycle with an electronic timer from a hardware store.

temperature and humidity

White tree frogs tolerate a wide range of temperatures. I’ve kept them in a low 50 degrees Fahrenheit for a short time, and they also tolerate temperatures well into the 90’s. However, I recommend a terrarium temperature in the 70s or 80s during the day, with a slight drop at night. For many people, this is close to normal room temperature, and the aforementioned artificial lighting can be enough to bring the temperature in the enclosure to 80 degrees during the day. I do not recommend heat lamps for frog terrariums. If the enclosure temperature needs to be raised, use a reptile heat mat attached to the side of the terrarium (make sure you use a thermostat to regulate the power).

Humidity and ventilation should be considered in the early planning stages of the terrarium. A short daily spraying of the terrarium with distilled water from a hand mister makes sense. Also provide a water bowl in the terrarium if your frogs fancy a bath. A landscaped pond as previously described will also serve this purpose. Change the water regularly to maintain hygiene and only use spring water or dechlorinated tap water for bowls and/or ponds.

If the terrarium is not adequately ventilated, white-leaved tree frogs can have breathing problems. At least a quarter of the housing lid should be shielded for ventilation, but since this also reduces the humidity in the terrarium, regular spraying is important. Some keepers install automatic fogging systems. Whites actually prefer slightly less humid conditions than most tree frogs, so don’t overdo the misting. An otherwise healthy white tree frog will turn dark brown when humidity rises above its preference, and this is especially true if the substrate is too wet. Substrate that is too wet can encourage fungus and mold, which can cause respiratory problems in amphibians.

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Feed your hungry frog

White tree frogs are so greedy when it comes to food and lazy that they tend to become obese, especially when elderly. Crickets are probably the best staple, but earthworms make a good substitute. Crickets should be stuffed with a commercial cricket food before feeding them to the frogs to increase their nutritional value. Also, use a calcium duster on the crickets about every week or so to ensure your frogs are getting adequate nutrients for proper bone development.

Feed adult white tree frogs as many crickets as they will eat in 10 to 15 minutes 2 to 3 times a week. Feed more frequently if the frogs are kept in temperatures in the 80’s. Young frogs should be fed every one to two days, again with as many crickets as they will eat in 10 to 15 minutes.

White tree frogs tend to be more active at night, but if you feed them during the day, they’ll expect food during the day.

Good treats include waxworms, mealworms, and superworms. Adult white tree frogs can also eat frozen/thawed small mice. These treats should be fed very sparingly due to their high fat content.

Begging behavior is common among these frogs, and they will often take food from tweezers and even fingers. Don’t worry if a white tree frog accidentally gets caught on your finger – it doesn’t have real fangs and won’t hurt you.

If you do manage to get tadpoles, they will thrive very well on good quality commercial fish food. Just make sure to keep the water clean with regular water changes.

As previously mentioned, better than most amphibians, white tree frogs tolerate handling fairly well. If you do touch your hands, be sure to keep your hands free of soaps and creams and be sure to wash your hands afterwards. Be gentle with your chubby green friend!

Many amphibian hobbyists dismiss the white tree frog as a beginner’s frog. In my opinion that is unfair. White’s tree frogs make great interactive pets that live long lives – up to 20 years if you’re lucky – and they make excellent pets for children who are interested in a pet that’s both unusual and fun. Keep a white and you’ll be smiling too!

John Clare, Ph.D., is the founder of Caudata.org, the longest-standing amphibian community on the web. He is also the founder of FrogForum.net.

The white tree frog (Ranoidea caerulea) is also known as the “Dumpy Tree Frog” or “Australian Green Tree Frog”. These frogs are 3-5 inch long, nocturnal tree amphibians native to Australia and New Guinea. They generally prefer moist forests as their habitat.

White tree frogs have smooth skin, squat bodies, large round toes, and horizontal pupils. They are gray-green or blue-green in color with pale bellies. However, their most distinctive feature is the drooping crest of fat above/behind each eye.

White tree frogs are popular pets because of their size and hardiness. With good care, they have a lifespan of up to 20+ years.

Minimum terrarium size for white tree frogs

The absolute minimum terrarium size for a White Tree Frog is 18″L x 18″W x 24″H. Of course, bigger is always better when you can! Providing more space allows for a more varied landscape and more room for the frogs to roam Exploring and moving offer.

Cohabitation (keeping several white tree frogs in one enclosure) is common practice, as these frogs seem to get along well in groups. They don’t need to live together, however, and they do well when kept alone.

Do white tree frogs need UVB?

You seem to be able to survive without them, but we still recommend providing adequate UVB lighting as part of the setup. UVB lighting contributes to a clear day-night cycle, provides all the vitamin D your pet needs, boosts the immune system, facilitates digestion, and has other benefits.

The best UVB lamps for white tree frogs are:

ZooMed T8 Reptisun 5.0

Arcadia ShadeDweller

For best results, house the UVB lamps in a reflective holder that is 50-100% of the length of the housing. Position the lamp over the mesh lid on the same side of the terrarium as the heat lamp and place the sun branch no closer than 6 inches below the lamp (UVB intensity will vary depending on distance from bulb).

UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so placing the terrarium in front of a window does not count as ‘free UVB’ – in fact it can make your terrarium too hot due to the greenhouse effect. Don’t forget to replace your lightbulb every 12 months!

The light should be on 12 hours a day.

Best temperature for white tree frogs

Like other amphibians, white tree frogs are cold-blooded, meaning they rely on outside temperatures to regulate their own body temperature and metabolism. Although amphibians aren’t generally as dependent on temperature gradients as reptiles, it’s still important to ensure your frog can regulate temperature as needed.

White tree frogs should enjoy a sun temperature of around 82-84°F, an average ambient temperature of 74-76°F, and night time temperatures as low as 65°F. Air temperatures should be measured with at least two digital stick thermometers.

Give your frog warmth with a low-wattage white heat lamp placed over a basking branch or large artificial leaf. Do not use ceramic heaters, deep heat projectors, or colored light bulbs as they are not as effective.

Best humidity for white tree frogs

As amphibians, white tree frogs cannot live without direct access to water. However, this species is more resilient to dehydration than most other frogs. Average humidity can be as high as 50%, but daily peaks of up to around 70% are recommended. Humidity should be measured with a digital probe hygrometer with the probe placed in the center of the terrarium.

Increase the humidity by spraying your frog’s enclosure with a spray bottle once a day. Spray first thing in the morning and then again in the evening, preferably when the lights are off.

Amphibians are sensitive to chemicals in their environment and even the type of water you use to nebulize and drink. Use dechlorinated tap water or spring water for nebulizing and drinking, not distilled or reverse osmosis.

Best substrate for white tree frogs

Providing a thick layer of natural substrate (“bedding”) will help maintain proper humidity levels and make your enclosure more attractive! We recommend the following substrates for white tree frogs:

Remove feces and urine daily along with contaminated substrate. The substrate should be completely replaced every month if you are not running a bioactive setup.

How to decorate a white tree frog’s terrarium

An empty terrarium makes the frog bored and reduces its quality of life. Keep your pet entertained and engaged with their surroundings with the strategic use of decorative items that encourage them to engage in natural behaviors!

Here are some decorating ideas to get you started:

Make sure your frog has covered areas it can retreat to if it wants privacy.

What to feed a white tree frog

White tree frogs are primarily insectivorous, meaning they must eat live insect prey to get proper nutrition. Young frogs should be fed daily, but adults should be fed every 2-3 days to prevent obesity. Offer as many insects in one feeding as the frogs will scavenge in about 15 minutes.

Food options for white tree frogs:

Black soldier fly larvae and flies

grilling

Discoid cockroaches

Dubia cockroaches

worms

mealworms

flour beetle

hornworms

silkworms

superworms

additions

You need to have calcium and multivitamin supplements on hand to prevent your frog from developing nutrient deficiencies and help him live a healthier life. We recommend Repashy Calcium Plus LoD, which is lightly dusted onto the prey before each feeding.

water

Of course, don’t forget a small, shallow bowl of water for your frog to drink from and dip into! Change the water daily and scrub the bowl with an amphibious-safe sanitizer weekly or whenever it gets dirty.

How to take care of your white tree frog

Amphibians don’t generally appreciate petting and handling like dogs and cats, but as far as amphibians go, White’s tree frogs can be quite manageable. However, everyone is different and while some tolerate the handling well, others can be very stressed by it. Get to know your special frog and treat them accordingly.

To handle your frog, wear a pair of nitrile gloves and grip them gently but firmly. The last thing you want is for them to jump out of your hands! And of course you should wash your hands after working with your frog or its enclosure.

If you want to interact with your pet without touching them, try offering food through a soft-tipped feeding tong.

*This care sheet only contains very basic information. While it’s a good introduction, please use good quality sources to further your research. The more you know, the better you can take care of your pet!

Arrow frogs and tree frogs together? Yes, it’s possible, but it’s not for everyone!

In general, Josh’s Frogs is against shuffling. It’s best to make sure we accommodate different species of dart frogs in their own vivaria as they can easily outperform or even interbreed in some cases!

There are some other animals that can be well housed with dart frogs given the right circumstances. These animals have similar needs, but they are different, and we must be careful to understand and accommodate those differences. We’re probably all familiar with sorrow geckos, who will happily venture into a humid tropical vivarium and be more than happy to eat fruit flies and fruit. You can read more about it here.

There are several smaller species of tree frogs (lemur, bird droppings, hourglass and clown tree frogs, all arboreal and nocturnal) that get along quite well with some dart frog species (terrestrial and diurnal) when properly set up. These tree frogs are best kept with Leuks, Auratus and Tincs – we don’t recommend living with most Phyllobates or Thumbnails. Make sure the dart frogs are at least 2/3 full grown as ideally they will be able to consume any extra crickets the tree frogs might leave behind.

Sounds cool right? It is, but only if done right! It often takes longer (and more expensive!) to build a vivarium to house tree frogs with darts than to set up two separate vivariums. Cohabbing can be done, but it’s not for everyone. Here are some things to think about:

Stick to captive bred animals.

Always select captive-bred animals whenever possible, but this is even more important when keeping different species together. Wild-caught bird droppings, hourglass tree frogs, and clown tree frogs are still commonly available (in fact, most available at pet stores and reptile shows are probably wild-caught!). They can carry all manner of pathogens and parasites that would prove harmful to your darts, not to mention chytrid fungus or ranavirus.

Familiarize yourself with the husbandry needs of both species and how the needs of one species can negatively impact the other.

Many people are under the impression that keeping several species of frogs together in one tank would be less work than keeping them individually. I have a different opinion! You must be familiar with the care needs of each animal you keep, but if you live in a community you must also be able to meet all of those needs in an enclosure, and in a way that the other residents cannot harms. Below is a table showing some of the care differences between dart frogs and the small tree frog species discussed in this blog. It’s very doable to have all of these requirements in one package, but it takes intent, research, and a little cash.

Dart Frog Tree Frog Lighting No UVB UVB Humidity 80-100% 60-70% Aeration Not Required Required Standing Water Not Required Required Food Fruit Flies 1/8″-1/4″ Crickets Temperature low to mid 70’s mid to high 70’s

As you can see, when keeping dart frogs and tree frogs together, you now need to provide ventilation and UVB (goodbye solid glass plate!), crickets at night and feed fruit flies during the day, provide standing water (possibly in a bowl that is changed daily must be installed) and ensure that the enclosure can provide the required temperature and humidity gradients. Dart frogs are mainly active on the enclosure floor, while tree frogs require large, smooth-leaved plants (such as pothos or philodendrons). Building such an enclosure requires planning and effort, and it needs to be larger to accommodate the needs of the occupants. Think 50 gallons+ to start and go bigger if you can.

Go big and start slow.

As mentioned above, go big. The last thing you should do is just toss some tree frogs into a small dart frog vivarium that you already have. They won’t do you any good.

Remember to start with an enclosure of at least 50 gallons or larger. It should be at least 24″ high (36″ is even better!) to ensure an appropriate humidity gradient – ​​higher humidity towards the bottom of the enclosure where the dart frogs are active, and lower humidity (Nr less than 60%) towards the top of the case, closer to the vented top. The pool should be at least 24″ long to allow all residents adequate exercise.

These tanks need planning. Be prepared to spend time researching before you start building and take it slow. Set up the tank and let it grow and run for a month or two before adding any residents, taking temperature and humidity readings to ensure the habitat is truly dialed in.

I would recommend adding darts first, several months before adding any tree frogs. This allows the dart frogs to grow up a bit and have a chance to hunt down any excess crickets the tree frogs leave behind.

Watch, watch, watch.

If you choose to do this, be prepared to spend time making sure your community is behaving as expected. Are dart frogs active and eating during the day? Are tree frogs only active in the evening or at night and stay in the higher areas of the tank? If the animals aren’t in the right physical condition or are behaving unusually, be ready to pull the plug. We’ve found that dart frogs and smaller tree frogs coexist well along with the right planning, setup and care, but make sure you know what to look for if a community isn’t thriving.

Conclusion

Yes, smaller species of tree frogs can be successfully housed with dart frogs given the right conditions, but that’s not for everyone. If you’re willing to do the research, devote the time and money needed to put together a large, complex vivarium to meet the needs of the occupants, and watch your pets carefully to ensure success, it could be right for you.

Links of interest:

Reptiles Magazine: Mixed Species Terrariums

Also known as the Australian Green Tree Frog or Dumpy Tree Frog, this is one of the largest and most popular tree frogs kept as pets among hobbyists. They come in various morphs and they are one of the few amphibians that tolerate occasional handling.

It may surprise you to learn that caring for a white tree frog is not all that difficult. With the right guidance, you’ll be sure to keep one for yourself. So let’s start.

How to take care of a white tree frog

Caring for white tree frogs is pretty easy once you learn the basics. Setting up your living space is important, but once you’re done the rest is easy.

One of the reasons for their popularity is their size. They are larger than the average tree frog. Adult white tree frogs grow up to 4.5 inches in length. They are not only long, but also heavy.

The other reason they are so popular is that they are more tolerant of handling than most other amphibians. That doesn’t mean you should hold them all the time, but the occasional hold is fine!

Their size and weight must be considered when setting up their habitat. Small plants are likely to be crushed and housing more than one together will require a large enclosure.

habitat setup

Lumpy tree frogs need a well thought out habitat design. While it’s true that they’re one of the easiest species to keep as pets, you need to think carefully about setting up their habitat.

Below is a list of recommended items to get before you buy your first Dumpy. I will go into more detail on each of them in the following sections.

Terrarium/Enclosure – Due to the sheer size of the frog, aim for a 18″L x 18″W x 24″H vertical terrarium if housing 2 – 3 dumpies. Find the ideal tree frog terrarium here. You can go as small as 12″L x 12″W x 18″H for 1 – 2 dumpies, but that doesn’t leave them much room to move.

– Due to the sheer size of the frog, you should aim for a 18″L x 18″W x 24″H vertical terrarium if you are housing 2 – 3 dumpies. Find the ideal tree frog terrarium here. You can go as small as 12″L x 12″W x 18″H for 1 – 2 dumpies, but that doesn’t leave them much room to move. Substrate – A nice ABG mix is ​​recommended for bioactive vivarium setups. It will provide all the nutrients for live plants and will support a population of springtails and isopods. If you decide to use artificial plants, you can use a simple coconut shell substrate.

– A nice ABG mix is ​​recommended for bioactive vivarium setups. It will provide all the nutrients for live plants and will support a population of springtails and isopods. If you decide to use artificial plants, you can use a simple coconut shell substrate. Drainage Layer (Optional) – A drainage layer is required when planning a waterfall feature. A white tree frog needs a moist environment, but nothing that involves putting on a layer of drainage.

(optional) – A drainage layer is required if you are planning a waterfall feature. A white tree frog needs a moist environment, but nothing that involves putting on a layer of drainage. Plants, branches and decoration – branches are a must for every tree frog enclosure. The goal is to provide your pet with plenty of opportunities to climb and hide. Plants and decorations serve as hiding places for your frogs.

– Twigs are a must for any tree frog enclosure. The goal is to provide your pet with plenty of opportunities to climb and hide. Plants and decorations serve as hiding places for your frogs. Light – UVB is not required, but it will not harm tree frogs at low doses. The most important aspect of lighting is to give your pet a day-night cycle. 12 hours day/light and 12 hours night/darkness are recommended. Consider an LED grow light or a small T5 for live plants. Just make sure they don’t overheat the cage!

– UVB is not required, but it will not harm tree frogs in low doses. The most important aspect of lighting is to give your pet a day-night cycle. 12 hours day/light and 12 hours night/darkness are recommended. Consider an LED grow light or a small T5 for live plants. Just make sure they don’t overheat the cage! Fog or fog system (optional) – A full fledged fog or mist system would only serve you as a convenience (they are mostly automated). You’ll need to mist the enclosure daily to ensure the humidity is within the recommended range, but this can be accomplished with an inexpensive spray bottle or spray bottle.

(optional) – A full fledged fogging system or fogging system would only serve you as a convenience (they are mostly automated). You’ll need to mist the enclosure daily to ensure the humidity is within the recommended range, but this can be accomplished with an inexpensive spray bottle or spray bottle. Heater – A heat lamp is required to maintain a temperature gradient within the enclosure. Be sure to read the temperature section for more information. A thermostat is recommended to regulate the temperature and avoid overheating.

– A heat lamp is required to maintain a temperature gradient within the enclosure. Be sure to read the temperature section for more information. A thermostat is recommended to regulate the temperature and avoid overheating. Thermometer/Hygrometer – You will need a thermometer/hygrometer to track the temperature and humidity inside the case. It’s a requirement for proper keeping, but they’re cheap and easy to use. I recommend one above and one below.

– You will need a thermometer/hygrometer to keep track of the temperature and humidity inside the case. It’s a requirement for proper keeping, but they’re cheap and easy to use. I recommend one above and one below. Water Bowl – Tree frogs are rarely good swimmers, but a water bowl is still required. It doesn’t have to be huge, but it should provide enough water for the number of frogs you have.

terrarium

Because of their overall size, Australian green tree frogs require more space than most other tree species. Still, you can get by with a minimum of 12″L x 12″W x 18″H for a single frog.

However, most people want two or three frogs per enclosure. You need a larger terrarium for this.

24 x 18 x 18 vertical terrarium (recommended) – at least 12″L x 12″W x 18″

Put simply, you can do 1-2 dumpies in a small vertical terrarium or 2-3 in a large vertical terrarium. Many hobbyists build 4 of these in a single 18″L x 18″W x 24″H Exo Terra (or equivalent brand/size) and they seem to work well.

substrate

The type of substrate you should use largely depends on what type of setup you are aiming for. A naturalistic setup with artificial plants and branches could use coconut fiber substrate like eco soil.

Bioactive vivariums with live plants, springtails and isopods would benefit from a substrate like ABG-Mix. This gives the plants everything they need to grow and thrive.

One benefit of the substrate in frog housing is that it retains water and helps regulate humidity. Certain types of substrates (like coconut fiber) retain water very well. This is great if you are trying to increase humidity in the enclosure. Different types of substrates drain water well.

temperature

White tree frogs prefer warm temperatures, but they also enjoy a range from warm to cool. They need a heat source (such as a heat lamp) for their setup because their recommended temperature range is higher than the ambient temperature in most homes.

Temperatures between 85 – 75°F during the day & low 70’s – high 60’s at night.

It is best to provide a temperature gradient within the enclosure. That means you have higher temperatures at the top of the case and lower temperatures at the bottom.

A small heat lamp should provide all the heat you need. Always pair your heater with a thermostat to avoid overheating. A thermostat is designed to turn off a device in the event of malfunctions and overheating.

Anyway, shoot for a temperature of around 85 degrees Fahrenheit to the top of the case and 75 degrees to the bottom. This gradient allows your dumpy to choose from a range of temperatures. Accompany this with lots of branches and leaves to hide and he/she will be happy.

humidity

Proper humidity is essential for proper amphibian care. This species likes an average humidity of around 50% with occasional peaks of around 70% – 80%.

Maintain humidity around 50% with occasional spikes around 70-80%

To achieve this, you need to mist the enclosure twice a day. Make sure you get a good quality thermometer/hygrometer so you can determine the humidity level after each nebulization.

You definitely don’t need to set up an automatic fogging system (like MistKing) or a fog machine, but you can if you really want to. As long as the humidity stays within recommended levels.

Ventilation is required to maintain airflow. Exo Terra, Zilla, and Zoo Med terrariums are great for this as they have strainer lids and vents near the front latch.

lighting

The main purpose of a light fixture for your white tree frog is to provide them with a day and night cycle. Basements or dark rooms are good places to keep your amphibians, but you need to remedy this by providing light during the day.

After all, you can’t leave your dumpy sitting in the dark all the time. You need to know when it’s day and when it’s night.

Recommended 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness

Another reason for lighting is important if you have live plants in the enclosure. True, living plants need light, and many of them will not grow without special “grow lights.”

Grow lights come in many different shapes and forms, but two of the most popular types are LEDs and T5 grow lights. Since this is a care guide for white tree frogs, I won’t go into detail about the lighting. Just be aware that you may need special lighting to provide everything your live plants need to grow.

water quality

The water quality you give your white tree frog is important. All amphibians need clean, dechlorinated water. Tap water is the easiest water source to obtain for most hobbyists, but it is often the worst choice.

Use clean, dechlorinated water in a shallow bowl of water

Tap water is the stuff most of us get out of the kitchen faucet. It comes straight from the municipal water treatment plant, where the raw water is cleaned and treated with chemicals such as chlorine and chloramines. They are necessary to kill harmful bacteria in water and are considered fairly safe for human consumption.

These chemicals are irritating and harmful to amphibians, which easily ingest water and any chemicals in the water through their skin. It affects them differently than us. Because of this, you must treat tap water with a water dechlorinator, or use bottled spring water or RO (reverse osmosis) water.

Treating chlorinated tap water is as simple as adding a few drops of a dechlorinating agent. ReptiSafe water conditioner is a product I have used and recommended, but similar products work just as well.

Once you have clean water, you need a place to put it. A medium-sized, shallow water dish is ideal for adult white tree frogs.

I like to use a water bowl at least twice the size of the frog. Also consider the number of residents in the enclosure. A larger water bowl may be required for an enclosure with 3 or 4 white tree frogs. Last but not least, make sure that the water bowl is not too deep!

Plants, branches and decorations

Proper care for a chubby frog starts with safety in the enclosure. Decorating its habitat may seem trivial, but consider the size and weight of this tree frog.

Tree trunks and branches need to be sturdy and placed in a way that they won’t fall over or crush your frog.

Plants, whether living or artificial, also need careful placement. Choose strong, sturdy plants and place them strategically so they don’t get pulled out of the ground or crushed by your frog’s weight!

Again, when using real plants, you need the right substrate and lighting.

White’s Tree Frog Diet

In captivity, white tree frogs will mostly eat appropriately sized crickets, although dubia cockroaches, horned worms, and waxworms may also be used.

Crickets (dusted with vitamins/minerals)

Dubia cockroaches

waxworms and horned worms

It’s important to pollinate your clump’s feeder insects with vitamins/minerals and calcium. This is required to maintain a healthy diet in captivity. What frogs eat in captivity is not enough to keep them healthy, hence the reason for supplements.

In the wild, they have far more opportunities and variety than in captivity. Here they get all the vitamins and minerals they need. This variety is not available in captivity. We limit ourselves to what we can buy at the pet store or at home.

Now that you know what to feed your pet white tree frog, let’s determine how much and how often to feed him. Most hobbyists feed their dumpies 3 to 4 times a week. This is a good start.

The amount of food insects you give them depends on their size and age. A good starting point is 2-3 insects (e.g. crickets) per feeding. If your frogs eat all the insects, you must increase the number by 1 the next time you feed them.

When feeding your new Dumpy, start with 2-3 appropriately sized crickets every other day. If all the crickets are eaten within an hour of feeding, give them 3-4 crickets at the next feeding.

Repeat this process until you find the right amount to feed them. Just know that overeating is a common problem for this species. Proper grooming includes making sure your pet is not overweight. It’s okay to feed them fewer crickets per feeding session if the frog is overweight.

A large Australian green tree frog

As always, dust your crickets or other feeding insects with reptile vitamins/minerals and calcium to ensure they are meeting all of their nutritional needs.

Fun fact: Australian green tree frogs are believed to secrete mild toxins in the wild as a result of eating certain insects. Don’t worry, they’re still safe to handle. Just make sure to wash your hands afterwards.

reproduction

Breeding white tree frogs and raising tadpoles into frogs and eventually juveniles is a rewarding experience. This requires careful attention to habitat and, of course, at least one male and one female.

sex determination

The first step is pretty obvious; Make sure you have both male and female Australian green tree frogs. Determining this is fairly easy, especially when you have multiple frogs to compare.

Females are larger, growing up to 4.5 inches in length, while males are smaller.

Another way to tell males from females is through mating. Males have mating pads found on the thumbs of their front legs. Look for a dark spot and/or bump on the inside of the thumb.

Once you’ve established that you’re both male and female, it’s time for the next step.

breed

To get most white tree frogs to breed, you need to put them in a rain chamber. A rain chamber is a special device that mimics rain. Hobbyists build them using water pumps and PVC pipes to circulate water from the bottom of the tank to the top. Once at the top, the water drips down like rain.

Why is that important? Well, it’s meant to simulate the breeding season. During this season the temperature is higher and it rains. In addition, the food is more plentiful, so feeding them a little more can prove helpful.

Two or three months of lower humidity and less water, accompanied by lower temperatures and less food is a good way to mimic the winter months. When the winter months are over, do your best to mimic the rainy season. Raise the temperature, put them in a rain chamber, and feed them more food.

It also helps to have competition between the males. Having 3 or 4 males per female is a good ratio.

With a bit of luck you will see eggs in the enclosure within a few days.

Photo by: DS light photography / Adobe Stock

tadpoles

Eggs and hatched tadpoles must be placed in a separate container as the adult frogs may eat them. Be careful when transferring them; They need time to get used to the water in the new enclosure.

water temperature and quality

Before transplanting, make sure the water they are going in is between 82 and 85 degrees F. The water should remain at this temperature throughout.

The quality of the water is also very important. It must remain clean and must not contain chlorine or chloramines from tap water. Use a water conditioner, or better yet, use RO (reverse osmosis) or bottled spring water.

Once you’ve prepared your water, it’s time to transfer the tadpoles. It is preferred to put them in a bag filled with water from the rain chamber and place this bag in the water of their new tank. This gives them time to acclimatize.

Feeding the tadpoles

At this point, you should start feeding the tadpoles 2-3 times a day. Each feeding should allow 45-60 minutes for the tadpoles to eat before removing the scraps of food. This will help keep the water from becoming polluted.

There are a variety of things you can feed them, but many owners like frozen worms, cooked lettuce, commercial tadpole food, or hard-boiled eggs.

Personally, I’ve had the most success with a combination of cooked spinach leaves and commercial tadpole pellets. The tadpoles mainly ate the cooked spinach leaves, but occasionally I could see them munching on the protein-rich pellets.

White Tree Frog

When the tadpoles turn into tailless baby frogs, give them a place to climb. Once their tail has been absorbed, they are ready to move into a terrarium.

Frogs can be fed appropriately sized food insects at this point. Pinhead crickets or wingless fruit flies should be small enough to provide a healthy meal for a small white tree frog.

For much more detailed guidance on this subject, see the Australian Society of Zoo Keeping’s husbandry guide.

Dealing with your white tree frog

White tree frogs are one of the few amphibian species that tolerate handling. Some owners still prefer not to hold them, but 10-15 minutes once or twice a week is fine.

Make sure your hands are clean and you practice proper handling etiquette. Do your best to prevent them from jumping out of your hands, falling to the ground and getting hurt.

I hope this care guide was helpful to you! If you have any questions, please feel free to use the comment system below.

How to set up your automatic fog schedule

The frequently asked question of how much to nebulize with a fog system has always been a mystery. Unfortunately, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer, golden rule, or magical obfuscation plan that we can share. The good news is that with a little patience and practice, you can learn how to plan your nebulizer for your enclosure.

Since each enclosure is unique, each fog plan will be different. The type of surface (screen or glass), ventilation, whether you use live plants, and the type of substrates used can all affect humidity levels. Too much fog can lead to problems like rot and bacterial growth, while too little fog can be very dangerous for residents and sometimes even fatal.

First you need to know what humidity level your pet is safe and healthy at. Here is a short list of the animals we raise:

Dart Frogs: 80% – 100% humidity

Bumblebee toad: 40%-60% humidity

Mourning Geckos: 60%-80% humidity

Red-Eye Tree Frogs: 60%-80% humidity

Cane Frogs: 60%-80% humidity

Solomon Tree Frogs: 60-70% humidity

Yellow spotted climbing toad: 60-70% humidity

If your pet isn’t on this list, do more research and email [email protected] for help!

Let’s take dart frogs as an example, as their humidity needs to stay above 70%.

Use these recommendations as a starting point:

If your case is all glass with a glass top (minimal ventilation): Spray twice a day for 5-10 seconds.

If your case is all glass with a screen top (moderate ventilation): Spray twice a day for 15-20 seconds.

The trick is to monitor humidity regularly and see how it’s doing over time. A quality hygrometer is your friend! If you find that the humidity level is too low for your pet at any time, consider spraying more at longer intervals or spraying more frequently throughout the day.

Once you find a fogging plan that keeps your humidity levels in a safe range, don’t get too comfortable. As the season changes and your air conditioning or furnace schedule changes, so does the humidity level.

Be sure to check out all the fog accessories we stock on our site!

Good luck and happy fogging! As always, if you have any questions along the way, email us at [email protected] or call us at 1 (800) 691-8178!

-Taylor